CN103263364B - 含有柴胡提取物的美白化妆品的制备方法 - Google Patents
含有柴胡提取物的美白化妆品的制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种含有柴胡提取物的美白化妆品的制备方法：第一步：用乙醇提取柴胡、山茱萸、玫瑰花的提取物；第二步：将C18醇、肌醇六磷酸酯、甘油、硬脂酸加热混熔后，加入特丁基对苯二酚溶解后得油相；第三步：将所述的中草药提取物加入硼砂、甘油单硬酯酸酯、精制水混合后得水相；第四步：将所述油相加入水相中乳化，加入香精，即得所述具有美白祛斑功效的化妆品。可以提高皮肤代谢、促进皮肤血液循环、增加皮肤营养，有效地去除自由基，消除色素沉淀，淡化皮肤出现的皱纹和色斑，使皮肤更加细腻、光滑、嫩白和富于弹性。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及中药技术领域，具体是指一种含有柴胡提取物的美白化妆品的制备方法。
背景技术
皮肤增白化妆品也称为祛斑美白化妆品，在我国列为特殊用途化妆品。皮肤增白化妆品市场中一直占有相当多的份额，近年来，随着美容医学的发展，皮肤增白化妆品很受消费者的欢迎。
皮肤是人体的重要组成部分，更是直接表达人体健康与衰老的标志。当皮肤代谢旺盛，血液循环畅通，营养丰富时，则皮肤细腻、光滑、柔嫩，极富弹性，且不易出现皱纹和色斑。当皮肤代谢减弱，血液循环不畅，营养物质不良时，则皮肤会变得灰暗、衰老，且易产生皱纹及色斑。决定人皮肤色泽差别的主要因素是胡萝卜素和黑色素，其中黑色素是最重要的。黑色素是在黑色素细胞中合成的，通过黑色素细胞的树枝状突起转移到邻接的角化细胞中。人皮肤中的黑色素细胞位于表皮基底层、毛根部和外毛鞘等，7~8个基底细胞中约有一个黑色素细胞。因此，黑色素细胞的分布密度无人种差别，各种肤色的人基本相同，全身共约20亿个。正常状态下，黑色素能吸收过量的日光光线，特别是紫外线，保护人体。若生成的黑色素不能及时代谢而聚集、沉积于表皮，则会使皮肤上出现雀斑、黄褐斑或老年斑等。一般认为黑色素的生成机理是在黑色素细胞内酪氨酸经酪氨酸酶催化而合成。酪氨酸氧化成黑色素的过程相当复杂，紫外线能够引起酪氨酸酶的活性和黑色素细胞活性的增强，因为会促进这一氧化作用。
到目前为止，应用较广泛的美白剂主要有下列几种：抗坏血酸及其衍生物，曲酸及其衍生物，对苯二酚及其衍生物，а-羟基酸及其衍生物，动物蛋白提取物，中草药提取物和防晒剂。
目前的化妆品，通常无法提高皮肤代谢、促进皮肤血液循环、增加皮肤营养，更无法去除皮肤出现的色斑使皮肤细腻、光滑、嫩白和富于弹性。因此不能满足人们对面部皮肤的美白、抗衰老去斑的护肤要求，给人们对面部皮肤的日常护理带来了不便。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种含有柴胡提取物的美白化妆品的制备方法，该方法制得的化妆品不仅可以提高皮肤代谢、促进皮肤血液循环、增加皮肤营养，而且可去除皮肤色斑，使皮肤更加嫩白。
本发明是通过以下技术方案实现的：
含有柴胡提取物的美白化妆品的制备方法为：第一步：将柴胡25重量份、山茱萸2重量份、玫瑰花2重量份混合均匀粉碎后进行80目过筛，然后加入500重量份质量浓度为85%~90%的乙醇，在25℃条件下浸泡24小时后进行低温超声萃取2小时，去上清离心、过滤、回流乙醇，最后经二次过滤后，即得中草药提取物；第二步：将C18醇1.5重量份、肌醇六磷酸酯0.5重量份、甘油6重量份、硬脂酸12重量份加热至75℃~85℃混熔后，加入特丁基对苯二酚0.02重量份，溶解后得油相；第三步：将所述的中草药提取物3重量份加入硼砂3重量份、甘油单硬酯酸酯2重量份、精制水60重量份混合后得水相；第四步：将所述油相加入70℃的所述水相中乳化，待温度降至40℃~50℃时加入香精，即得所述具有美白祛斑功效的化妆品。
其中，柴胡柴胡其成分主要含柴胡皂苷，甾醇，挥发油（柴胡醇、丁香酚等），脂肪酸（油酸、亚麻油酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸等）和多糖等。 还含黄酮、多元醇、香豆素和微量元素等成份。性味归经：性微寒、味苦、辛、归肝经、胆经，具疏肝利胆、疏气解郁、散火之功效。功能：透表泄热，疏肝解郁，升举阳气。美容效果甚佳，能有效地清除自由基，消除色素沉着，令人唤发青春活力。
山茱萸含有生理活性较强的山茱萸甙、酒石酸、没食子酸、苹果酸、树酯、鞣质和多种维生素等有效成分，具有增强免疫、抗炎、抗菌等药理作用，是中医临床中常用的一味药。具有散寒解表、温通经脉、通阳化气的功效。
玫瑰花含挥发油（玫瑰油），主要为香茅醇、橙花醇、丁香油酚、苯乙醇、壬醇、苯甲醇、芳樟醇、乙酸苯乙酯，以及槲皮甙、苦味质、鞣质、没食子酸、胡萝卜素、红色素等成分。具有强肝养胃，活血调经，润肠通便，解郁安神之功效，可缓和情绪、平衡内分泌、补血气、对肝及胃有调理的作用，舒缓情绪、并有消炎杀菌、消除疲劳、改善体质、润泽肌肤的功效。
本发明的化妆品组合物中含有由柴胡、山茱萸、玫瑰花三味中草药提取的多种植物活性成份，具有很强的抗氧化作用，且为小分子物质，更容易渗入皮肤而被皮肤所吸收，不仅可以提高皮肤代谢、促进皮肤血液循环、增加皮肤营养，而且可有效地去除自由基，消除色素沉淀，淡化皮肤出现的皱纹和色斑，使皮肤更加细腻、光滑、嫩白和富于弹性，可方便的满足人们对面部皮肤的美白、抗衰老去皱去斑的日常护肤要求，是一种新颖并独具特色的中草药化妆品。
临床应用表明，本发明的含有柴胡提取物的化妆品能抑制酪氨酸酶的生物合成，包括抑制酪氨酸酶的活性，干扰黑色素生成的中间体；能对黑色素起还原作用、防止光氧化，降解角质细胞黑色质粒；能促进黑色素的代谢，防止黑色素沉积，使黑色素迅速排出体外；防止紫外线的进入，防止因紫外线而形成过多的黑色素，从而对皮肤起到美白祛斑的功效。
具体实施方式：
下面结合实施例和病例对本发明作进一步的说明。
实施例1
第一步：准确称取柴胡25kg、山茱萸2kg、玫瑰花2kg，混合均匀粉碎后进行80目过筛，然后加入500kg质量浓度为85%的乙醇，在25℃条件下浸泡24小时后进行低温超声萃取2小时，去上清离心、过滤、回流乙醇，最后经二次过滤后，即得中草药提取物；第二步：将C18醇1.5kg、肌醇六磷酸酯0.5kg、甘油6kg、硬脂酸12kg加热至75℃混熔后，加入特丁基对苯二酚0.02kg，溶解后得油相；第三步：将所述的中草药提取物3kg加入硼砂3kg、甘油单硬酯酸酯2kg、精制水60kg混合后得水相；第四步：将所述油相加入70℃的所述水相中乳化，待温度降至40℃时加入香精，即得所述具有美白功效的化妆品。
实施例2
第一步：准确称取柴胡25kg、山茱萸2kg、玫瑰花2kg，混合均匀粉碎后进行80目过筛，然后加入500kg质量浓度为90%的乙醇，在25℃条件下浸泡24小时后进行低温超声萃取2小时，去上清离心、过滤、回流乙醇，最后经二次过滤后，即得中草药提取物；第二步：将C18醇1.5 kg、肌醇六磷酸酯0.5 kg、甘油6kg、硬脂酸12kg加热至85℃混熔后，加入特丁基对苯二酚0.02kg，溶解后得油相；第三步：将所述的中草药提取物3kg加入硼砂3kg、甘油单硬酯酸酯2kg、精制水60kg混合后得水相；第四步：将所述油相加入70℃的所述水相中乳化，待温度降至50℃时加入香精，即得所述具有美白功效的化妆品。
实施例3
第一步：准确称取柴胡25kg、山茱萸2kg、玫瑰花2kg，混合均匀粉碎后进行80目过筛，然后加入500kg浓度为85%的乙醇，在25℃条件下浸泡24小时后进行低温超声萃取2小时，去上清离心、过滤、回流乙醇，最后经二次过滤后，即得中草药提取物；第二步：将C18醇1.5kg、肌醇六磷酸酯0.5kg、甘油6kg、硬脂酸12kg加热至85℃混熔后，加入特丁基对苯二酚0.02kg，溶解后得油相；第三步：将所述的中草药提取物3kg加入硼砂3kg、甘油单硬酯酸酯2kg、精制水60kg混合后得水相；第四步：将所述油相加入70℃的所述水相中乳化，待温度降至45℃时加入香精，即得所述具有美白功效的化妆品。
实施例4
第一步：准确称取柴胡25kg、山茱萸2kg、玫瑰花2kg，混合均匀粉碎后进行80目过筛，然后加入500kg浓度为87%的乙醇，在25℃条件下浸泡24小时后进行低温超声萃取2小时，去上清离心、过滤、回流乙醇，最后经二次过滤后，即得中草药提取物；第二步：将C18醇1.5kg、肌醇六磷酸酯0.5kg、甘油6kg、硬脂酸12kg加热至80℃混熔后，加入特丁基对苯二酚0.02kg，溶解后得油相；第三步：将所述的中草药提取物3kg加入硼砂3kg、甘油单硬酯酸酯2kg、精制水60kg混合后得水相；第四步：将所述油相加入70℃的所述水相中乳化，待温度降至47℃时加入香精，即得所述具有美白功效的化妆品。
人体美白试验-- 黑色素含量减少：
测定受试部位前2-3天不能使用任何产品( 化妆品或外用药品)。试验前，受试者需要统一清洁双手前臂内侧，用干的面巾纸擦拭干净。清洁后在受试者双手前臂内侧做好测量区域标记。正式测试前应该在符合标准的房间内静坐至少30min，前臂暴露，呈测试状态放置，保持放松。
实验中左右手前臂内侧标记4×4cm2试验区域，同一手臂可同时标记多个区域，区域间隔2cm。测试产品( 不同浓度的提取液) 和空白对照均随机分布在左右手臂上。使用皮肤黑色素和血红素测试仪进行受试区域和对照区域的测量，每个区域依照平行测定5次。先测量各测试区域的空白值，然后按2.0±0.1mg 样品/cm2的用量，使用乳胶指套将试样均匀涂布于试验区内。涂抹后分别测量1 周、2 周、3 周、4 周、受试区域和空白对照区域的皮肤黑色素含量。同一个志愿者的测试由同一个测量人员完成。
本发明实施例1~4的实验结果：随着测量时间的延长，黑色素含量减少量也逐渐增加，这说明本发明实施例1~4制得的化妆品的美白活性成分持续对皮肤的黑色素减少起作用。
本发明临床实验及结果：
实验方法：选年龄段在35岁到60岁的自愿者，男自愿者50名，女自愿者50名。
主要症状：雀斑、黄褐斑、太阳斑、肤色暗沉。自愿者随机分为两组，每组50 人。
试验组：每日洁面后，睡前将实施例4制备的面膜敷于脸部20～30min，用温水洗净即可，不涂敷其他护肤品。每周2～3次，试验期一个月。
对照组：每日洁面后，睡前在脸部皮肤上涂覆市售美白面膜20～30min，用温水洗净即可，不涂敷其他护肤品。每周2 ～3 次，试验期一个月。
3 天、7 天、1 个月各统计一次。
评价标准：通过患者自述感受，及电脑比对皮肤纹理图鉴定肤色美白程度及色斑淡化程度。有效：肤色提亮，色斑颜色减淡。无效：肤色及色斑与实验前无任何变化。
试用结果：3天本产品具有明显优于市售产品的美白效果，试验组有效42 例，有效率84％。对照组有效16例，有效率32％。使用30天后，试验组有效率达到100％，且还能明显增加肌肤的光泽度，肌肤细腻圆润。没有一例反应出现过敏、皮肤不适等现象。对照组仅为56％。
Claims (1)
1.含有柴胡提取物的美白化妆品的制备方法，其特征在于：第一步：将柴胡25重量份、山茱萸2重量份、玫瑰花2重量份混合均匀粉碎后进行80目过筛，然后加入500重量份质量浓度为85%~90%的乙醇，在25℃条件下浸泡24小时后进行低温超声萃取2小时，去上清离心、过滤、回流乙醇，最后经二次过滤后，即得中草药提取物；第二步：将C18醇1.5重量份、肌醇六磷酸酯0.5重量份、甘油6重量份、硬脂酸12重量份加热至75℃~85℃混熔后，加入特丁基对苯二酚0.02重量份，溶解后得油相；第三步：将所述的中草药提取物3重量份加入硼砂3重量份、甘油单硬酯酸酯2重量份、精制水60重量份混合后得水相；第四步：将所述油相加入70℃的所述水相中乳化，待温度降至40℃~50℃时加入香精，即得所述具有美白祛斑功效的化妆品。
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