CN103173900A - Processing technique of yarn used for mercerization non-shrinkable wool and mohair blending fabric product - Google Patents

Processing technique of yarn used for mercerization non-shrinkable wool and mohair blending fabric product Download PDF

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Publication number
CN103173900A
CN103173900A CN 201110437272 CN201110437272A CN103173900A CN 103173900 A CN103173900 A CN 103173900A CN 201110437272 CN201110437272 CN 201110437272 CN 201110437272 A CN201110437272 A CN 201110437272A CN 103173900 A CN103173900 A CN 103173900A
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China
Prior art keywords
wool
mohair
yarn
dyeing
dye
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CN 201110437272
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
王振声
魏玲玲
孙淑英
胡孝飞
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Yianjin Tianfang Investment Holding Co Ltddiyang Textile Branch
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Yianjin Tianfang Investment Holding Co Ltddiyang Textile Branch
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Priority to CN 201110437272 priority Critical patent/CN103173900A/en
Publication of CN103173900A publication Critical patent/CN103173900A/en
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Abstract

The invention discloses a processing technique of yarn used for a mercerization non-shrinkable wool and mohair blending fabric product and aims at developing raw material of the fabric product. Preferentially, the raw material is composed of 40% of mohair, 40% of mercerized wool and 20% of chinlon. The yarn count is changed to 36 Nm / 3 (36 branches each 3 strands) from original 24 Nm / 2. Technique and style of a velvet pile product are innovated due to the changing of the raw materials, the yarn count, and the strand. The processing technique of the yarn used for the mercerization non-shrinkable wool and mohair blending fabric product has the advantages that development of products is successful, part of imported products are replaced, cost of the raw material is greatly reduced, market potential is huge, additional value is high, requirements for intensification production are met, and strong guarantee is provided for the competition of domestic top-grade velvet pile products with the imported products.

Description

A kind of silkete unshrinkable wool and the mohair blended cloth art products processing technology of yarn
(1) technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of cloth art products of field of textiles with yarn and processing technology thereof, particularly relate to the processing technology that a kind of silkete unshrinkable wool and mohair blended cloth art products are used yarn.
(2) background technology
In the cloth art product, it is expensive goods in present cloth art product that a kind of clipping product is arranged, and use raw material all with the hair more than 80% as main raw material.This cloth art products will be considered the refraction of light, will consider simultaneously after clipping that cut velvet does not fall texts, and present this raw material is controlled by foreign enterprise.The mohair cost of material is high, is 3-4 times of common wool, and external product can't substitute in addition, causes to form the situation that external product is cornered the market, and domestic manufacturer is hung back.Therefore, if domestic manufacturer wants to have breakthrough, must carry out deep research to the raw material of cloth art products on this series products, form the product advantage of oneself.
(3) summary of the invention
The present invention provides a kind of silkete unshrinkable wool and the mohair blended cloth art products processing technology of yarn in view of the foregoing.
The thinking of this programme is to develop a kind of raw material of cloth art products, determines on the raw material optimum ratio: mohair 40%, mercerized wool 40%, polyamide fibre 20%; In the variation of yarn count, be adjusted into 36Nm/3 (36 public three strands) by former 24Nm/2.By the variation of raw material, yarn count, number of share of stock, form the innovation of clipping product on technique and style.
The silkete unshrinkable wool of this programme and mohair blended cloth art products are to realize like this with the processing technology of yarn.
The silkete unshrinkable wool of this programme and mohair blended cloth art products yarn are the three strands of yarns of 68Nm that contain polyamide fibre 20%, wool 40%, mohair 40%.
Its concrete processing technology is:
One, dye section's technique
Process route: the pinecone, dyeing, after backwashing, mixed comb;
1, mercerized wool dyeing
Dyeing installation: select HE---the 600 vertical pots that dye, dye bath ratio 1: 30;
Dyeing: silkete unshrinkable wool adopts import environment-friendly active dyestuff to dye,
Figure BSA00000642727200011
2, mohair dyeing
Adopt the COLOR FASTNESS of import environment-friendly active dyestuff assurance product,
Dyeing installation: select HE---the 600 vertical pots that dye, dye bath ratio 1: 35,
Figure BSA00000642727200022
3, nylon dyeing technique
Adopt import environment-friendly active dyestuff;
Dyeing installation: select HE---the 600 vertical pots that dye, dye bath ratio 1: 35,
The heating and cooling scope Add reagent The heating and cooling condition Remarks
0℃-40℃ Glauber salt, levelling agent 2℃/min
40℃ Penetrating agent JFC, REACTIVE DYES Running 5min
40℃-50℃ Acetic acid 1.5℃/min
50℃-60℃ 0.5/min
60℃-70℃ 0.5℃/min
70℃-80℃ 1℃/min
80℃-100℃ 1℃/min
100℃ Insulation 30min
100℃-40℃ Top water goes out machine
(1), the wool top that will take the dish out of the pot sends into the LB334 back washer and carries out after backwashing,
(2), the wool top after after backwashing feeding 412 gill boxes are carried out grilling, guarantee that bar does evenly, bar is done consistent, and mohair and mercerized wool add closes crude oil: water is the mixed liquor of 1: 5; Polyamide fibre adds electrostatic agent: water is the mixed liquor of 1: 5, addition 180ml/min,
(3), moisture regain is stand-by in advance to put into the chamber of getting damp again;
Two, spin section's technique
Technological process: silver mixing, one grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, rove, spun yarn, winder, doubling, double twisting;
(1), fore-spinning:
(2), spinning process
Unit type: zinser421 type ring throstle,
Single thread number: 36Nm,
Block size spaces: 5.5mm,
Groove depth: 2.0mm,
Drafting multiple: 21.00,
The twist: 540T/m,
Front and back ratch: 220mm,
Speed of a motor vehicle 6200r/min;
(3), rear spinning process
1. winder: the ESPRO.M automatic winder of Italian Savio company,
Main yarn clearing parameter:
Project Parameter Parameter 2
Card nailing neps 6
Slubbing DS (short slub) 3.0cm LS (long slubbing) 3.5cm
Details -D (negative cross section amount)-50% -L (details length) 45cm
2. doubling: the fmx doubling frame of Switzerland SSM company,
3. double twisting: the VTS-086 two-for-one twister of German SAVRER,
The double twisting number of share of stock: 3,
The twist: 520T/m,
Sth. made by twisting is to S;
4. under double twisting, machine carries out the yarn steaming typing with KSZX type vacuum yarn steaming tank, the yarn steaming temperature: 85 ℃, and the yarn steaming time: 30min.
Usefulness of the present invention is: succeeding in developing of this product, partly substituted imported product, and significantly reduced cost of material, this produce market has a high potential, and added value is high, satisfies intensive production requirement.For the competition of domestic high-grade clipping product and imported product provides strong guarantee.
(4) specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with embodiment, the wool normal temperature anti-shrinking technique of this programme is further described.
Embodiment:
One, dye section's technique
Process route: the pinecone, dyeing, after backwashing, mixed comb.
1, mercerized wool dyeing
Dyeing installation: select HE---the 600 vertical pots that dye, dye bath ratio 1: 30;
Dyeing: silkete unshrinkable wool adopts import environment-friendly active dyestuff to dye.
Figure BSA00000642727200041
2, mohair dyeing
Adopt COLOR FASTNESS and other qualities of import environment-friendly active dyestuff assurance product, dyeing installation: select HE---the 600 vertical pots that dye, dye bath ratio 1: 35.
Figure BSA00000642727200052
3, nylon dyeing technique
Adopt import environment-friendly active dyestuff; Dyeing installation: select HE---the 600 vertical pots that dye, dye bath ratio 1: 35.
The heating and cooling scope Add reagent The heating and cooling condition Remarks
0℃-40℃ Glauber salt, levelling agent 2℃/min
40℃ Penetrating agent JFC, REACTIVE DYES Running 5min
40℃-50℃ Acetic acid 1.5℃/min
50℃60℃ 0.5/min
60℃-70℃ 0.5℃/min
70℃-80℃ 1℃/min
80℃-100℃ 1℃/min
100℃ Insulation 30min
100℃-40℃ Top water goes out machine
(1), the wool top that will take the dish out of the pot sends into the LB334 back washer and carries out after backwashing,
(2), the wool top after after backwashing feeding 412 gill boxes are carried out grilling, guarantee that bar does evenly, bar is done consistent, and mohair and mercerized wool add closes crude oil: water is the mixed liquor of 1: 5; Polyamide fibre adds electrostatic agent: water is the mixed liquor of 1: 5, addition 180ml/min.
(3), moisture regain is stand-by in advance to put into the chamber of getting damp again.
Two, spin section's technique
Product: N20-36Nm/3 (polyamide fibre 20%, wool 40%; Mohair 40% is spun into three strands of yarns of 36Nm).
Technological process: silver mixing, one grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, rove, spun yarn, winder, doubling, double twisting.
(1), fore-spinning:
(2), spinning process
Unit type: zinser421 type ring throstle,
Single thread number: 36Nm,
Block size spaces: 5.5mm,
Groove depth: 2.0mm,
Drafting multiple: 21.00,
The twist: 540T/m,
Front and back ratch: 220mm,
Annotate: guaranteeing has corresponding collector after each roller,, reduce twist triangle zone, reduce filoplume and generate, No. 29, steel traveler used, speed of a motor vehicle 6200r/min.
(3), rear spinning process
1. winder: the ESPRO.M automatic winder of Italian Savio company,
Main yarn clearing parameter:
Project Parameter Parameter 2
Card nailing neps 6
Slubbing DS (short slub) 3.0cm LS (long slubbing) 3.5cm
Details -D (negative cross section amount)-50% -L (details length) 45cm
2. doubling: the fmx doubling frame of Switzerland SSM company,
3. double twisting: the VTS-086 two-for-one twister of German SAVRER,
The double twisting number of share of stock: 3,
The twist: 520T/m,
Sth. made by twisting is to S.
4. under double twisting, machine carries out the yarn steaming typing with KSZX type vacuum yarn steaming tank.
Yarn steaming temperature: 85 ℃; The yarn steaming time: 30min.
Three, the technical essential of this project
1, wool and mohair blending, length and fineness are discrete can not meet the demands, preferred by wool, realizes discrete length below 44%, and fineness is discrete below 27%.Solve wandering fibre and control a difficult problem, simultaneously equipment is regulated, adapt to more long stapled combing and spinning.
2, change the stability that number of share of stock successfully solves yarn cross section, be adjusted into three plying by two plying, thereby be conducive to the yarn cross section change, clipping facade elasticity is strengthened.
3, adopt the process of spinning afterwards that first dyes to solve the inhomogeneous situation of traditional dyeing, successfully realize blending ingrain uniformity.
four, conclusion: the concentrating on studies of process, develop the high-grade clipping yarn of 68Nm/3, filled up the blank of the domestic high-grade clipping of China with yarn, change high-grade clipping and leaned on the helpless situation of import with yarn, another important breakthrough of my company's new product development, for entering high-grade cloth art field, company lays a solid foundation, be also that stronger chip has been added in the enterprise of the high-grade clipping product of production and the competition of foreign textile enterprise, this technologic breakthrough, the product of producing is inexpensive, deeply be subjected to the welcome of down-stream enterprise, produced at present the product of tens of tons, obtain client's height certainly.

Claims (3)

1. a silkete unshrinkable wool and mohair blended cloth art products are with the processing technology of yarn, and it is characterized in that: this yarn is the three strands of yarns of 36Nm that contain polyamide fibre 20%, wool 40%, mohair 40%;
Its concrete processing technology is:
One, dye section's technique
Process route: the pinecone, dyeing, after backwashing, mixed comb;
1, mercerized wool dyeing
Dyeing installation: select HE---the 600 vertical pots that dye, dye bath ratio 1: 30;
Dyeing: silkete unshrinkable wool adopts import environment-friendly active dyestuff to dye,
Figure FSA00000642727100011
2. mohair dyeing
Adopt the COLOR FASTNESS of import environment-friendly active dyestuff assurance product,
Dyeing installation: select HE---the 600 vertical pots that dye, dye bath ratio 1: 35,
Figure FSA00000642727100012
3. nylon dyeing technique
Adopt import environment-friendly active dyestuff;
Dyeing installation: select HE---the 600 vertical pots that dye, dye bath ratio 1: 35,
The heating and cooling scope Add reagent The heating and cooling condition Remarks 0℃-40℃ Glauber salt, levelling agent 2℃/min 40℃ Penetrating agent JFC, REACTIVE DYES Running 5min 40℃-50℃ Acetic acid 1.5℃/min 50℃-60℃ 0.5/min 60℃-70℃ 0.5℃/min 70℃-80℃ 1℃/min 80℃-100℃ 1℃/min 100℃ Insulation 30min 100℃-40℃ Top water goes out machine
(1), the wool top that will take the dish out of the pot sends into the LB334 back washer and carries out after backwashing,
(2), the wool top after after backwashing feeding 412 gill boxes are carried out grilling, guarantee that bar does evenly, bar is done consistent, and mohair and mercerized wool add closes crude oil: water is the mixed liquor of 1: 5; Polyamide fibre adds electrostatic agent: water is the mixed liquor of 1: 5, addition 180ml/min,
(3), moisture regain is stand-by in advance to put into the chamber of getting damp again;
Two, spin section's technique
Technological process: silver mixing, one grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, rove, spun yarn, winder, doubling, double twisting;
(1), fore-spinning:
Figure FSA00000642727100021
(2), spinning process
Unit type: zinser421 type ring throstle,
Single thread number: 36Nm,
Block size spaces: 5.5mm,
Groove depth: 2.0mm,
Drafting multiple: 21.00,
The twist: 540T/m,
Front and back ratch: 220mm,
Speed of a motor vehicle 6200r/min;
(3), rear spinning process
1. winder: the ESPRO.M automatic winder of Italian Savio company,
Main yarn clearing parameter:
Project Parameter Parameter 2 Card nailing neps 6 Slubbing DS (short slub) 3.0cm LS (long slubbing) 3.5cm Details -D (negative cross section amount)-50% -L (details length) 45cm
2. doubling: the fmx doubling frame of Switzerland SSM company,
3. double twisting: the VTS-086 two-for-one twister of German SAVRER,
The double twisting number of share of stock: 3,
The twist: 520T/m,
Sth. made by twisting is to S;
4. under double twisting, machine carries out the yarn steaming typing with KSZX type vacuum yarn steaming tank, the yarn steaming temperature: 85 ℃, and the yarn steaming time: 30min.
CN 201110437272 2011-12-23 2011-12-23 Processing technique of yarn used for mercerization non-shrinkable wool and mohair blending fabric product Pending CN103173900A (en)

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105755615A (en) * 2016-04-01 2016-07-13 张家港市东亚毛纺织有限公司 Glossy mohair yarn and preparation method thereof
CN106245175A (en) * 2016-08-15 2016-12-21 浙江赢时胜实业有限公司 A kind of imitated furs feel flame and the production technology of sweater
CN107447320A (en) * 2017-09-23 2017-12-08 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 A kind of machine washable velvet apple machine knitting yarn and its production technology
CN114411291A (en) * 2022-02-08 2022-04-29 张家港天宇精梳羊毛有限公司 Sliver producing process for wool tops with non-uniform shrinkage

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105755615A (en) * 2016-04-01 2016-07-13 张家港市东亚毛纺织有限公司 Glossy mohair yarn and preparation method thereof
CN106245175A (en) * 2016-08-15 2016-12-21 浙江赢时胜实业有限公司 A kind of imitated furs feel flame and the production technology of sweater
CN106245175B (en) * 2016-08-15 2019-02-12 浙江赢时胜实业有限公司 A kind of production technology of imitated furs feel flame and sweater
CN107447320A (en) * 2017-09-23 2017-12-08 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 A kind of machine washable velvet apple machine knitting yarn and its production technology
CN114411291A (en) * 2022-02-08 2022-04-29 张家港天宇精梳羊毛有限公司 Sliver producing process for wool tops with non-uniform shrinkage

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Application publication date: 20130626