CN102657402B - Fur garment and processing technology thereof - Google Patents
Fur garment and processing technology thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN102657402B CN102657402B CN201210143134.XA CN201210143134A CN102657402B CN 102657402 B CN102657402 B CN 102657402B CN 201210143134 A CN201210143134 A CN 201210143134A CN 102657402 B CN102657402 B CN 102657402B
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Abstract
The invention relates to a fur garment and a processing technology thereof. The processing technology sequentially comprises the following steps: processing fur, dyeing, segmenting and splicing the fur according to the style of leatherwear and intertwining the fur. According to the processing technology disclosed by the invention, the technical defects that leather and fur materials in the prior art are coarse, poor in comfort and difficult to process can be solved, low cost and high added value are achieved, the combination of the peculiar segmentation style and the three-dimensional effect of the fur is also achieved, and the fur garment not only has comfort, but also integrates the embellishing function, and can realize the beneficial effect of local and whole aesthetics of the leatherwear.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to leather processing technical field, the particularly machining field of leather wear, relates in particular to a kind of clothes and Treatment technique for processing thereof of fur coat hair.
Background technology
Reform and opening-up three during the last ten years, the leather industry of China for foreign exchange earning, enrich city commodity market, development rural area pasturing area economy has played immeasurable effect.Yet leather industry development is restricted because of blowdown problem again.At present, the pressure of environmental protection has become the trend of closing down or carrying out the regional transfer of leather industry.
At present, 98% above tannery is used akali sulphide lime tradition process hides depilation liming technique, and its advantage is that expense is low, quick, depilation is clean, can adapt to the production of various leathers; But it is large that its shortcoming is material usage, in waste liquid, COD, BOD, TSS value and sulfide content are very high, after waste liquid precipitation, produce a lot of mud, and difficult treatment, brings serious pollution to environment.Because akali sulphide content is high and toxic action to living nature, it is a difficult problem that the biochemistry of vulcanized sodium depilation raffinate purifies.From waste water, removing now sulfide has not been technical problem, but a cost issues.Another problem is to make hide fiber reach sufficient separation with large quantities of lime.Lime and calcium salt have increased mud amount, thereby have increased the traffic expense of the first step and second step mud.A large amount of lime consumptions has also increased liming and has washed the difficulty of Protein Recovery in graywall body lotion.
Along with scientific and technical development, existing fur dyeing is all once to dye a kind of color.Fur article with multicolour pattern is to be all spliced with the single fur of various colors, and manufacturing procedure is numerous and diverse, production efficiency is low and cost is high.The splicing of fur is to adopt craft or machinery to make, and the periphery of every block of fur is easily worn, and makes with line and is also easily rubbed, thereby cause the fur article that is spliced shorter service life.Often color is stiff, the division is clearly demarcated for the multicolour pattern being spliced.
In the processing that leather is upgraded day by day, improve in treatment process, retanning occupies critical role in fur industry, it is that the good skin base of tanning is carried out to another tanning, can supplement the deficiency of just tanning, the stability that improves the effect of skin base chemically-resistant, is conducive to follow-up housekeeping operation, improves serviceability, increase to greatest extent value-added content of product, the needs of applicable various uses.
At present, chrome tanning agent retanning, aldehyde tanning agent retanning, aluminium tanningagent retanning or syntans, vegetable tanning agent, resinae tanning agent retanning several different methods are generally taked in fur retanning, the effect that different retanning methods reaches and excellent, shortcoming is different.The advantage of chrome tanning agent retanning is to improve the shrinkage temperature of dermatotome, stability and the colourability of anionic dye to dermatotome of the fullness of increase dermatotome, elasticity, flexibility, chemical-resistant reagent; Along with fur industrial expansion, fur and goods thereof have been proposed to requirement higher, that upgrade both at home and abroad, impel fur manufacturing technique constantly to be improved.How to improve comfortableness and aesthetic property, become fur retanning procedures problem in the urgent need to address.
Meanwhile, we know, in shearling manufacture process, tanning is absolutely necessary, very important operation, and the skin through tanning is not rawhide, cannot use; After tanning, rawhide becomes leather, has possessed softness, resistance to storage, water-permeable and air permeable, the people such as water-fastness use needed, dress ornament performance.For a long time, the making of shearling processing adopts chrome tanning always, and this method is made shearling and environment is all harmful to sewage disposal from tanning operation.China pays much attention to environmental protection work in recent years, and that Devoting Major Efforts To Developing is carried out is energy-conservation, reduction of discharging, consumption-reducing technological and product, and full-scale development is produced environmentally friendly machine.And the manufacturing of chrome tanning agent also causes larger pollution to environment, so development environment-friendly type shearling preparation method is significant to environmental protection.
In addition, also there is the processing technology of the material of imitated sheepskin hair both at home and abroad, existing artificial fur ubiquity is ventilative in the market, the disadvantages such as the poor static of hygroscopicity is large, and natural fur coat exists taste to have a strong smell, body weight, the problems such as hair matter difference is large, the patent No. EP10987642 of take in America and Europe is as typical patent of invention " pure wool imitation sheepskin " is although preferably resolve the problems referred to above, but still existing problems are the lining that existing pure wool imitation woolfell can only be used as clothes, when making ready-made clothes, still need to join in addition garment material, therefore be badly in need of a kind ofly can making the pure wool imitation woolfell that garment lining has again garment material style simultaneously.
Meanwhile, dyeing occupies critical role in fur industry, and it can improve outward appearance and the color of hair, makes it to meet fashion and Trend of fashion, improves serviceability, increases to greatest extent their added value, the needs of applicable various uses.
At present, fur dyeing is generally taked metal complex (neutrality) dyestuff and acid dyes.China-made Neutral dyeing fastness is good, the mixed liquor of resistance to formic acid, formaldehyde, alcohol and formic acid, formaldehyde and alcohol, hot iron nondiscolouring, but because its dye molecule is large, compatibility is poor, fur open and between aberration larger; Again because it is easily painted on dermatotome, easy upper plate when dyeing temperature is low, improves temperature, reduces the technique of pH value as taked, have again part dyestuff to migrate to hair from dermatotome upper, very easily causes aberration between batches; The control of dying operation is required high, dyeing temperature is high, the time is long, conventionally needs within 66～69 ℃, 3～3.5 hours, just can complete.Meanwhile, infiltration and the dyeing speed of dyestuff are slow, exhaustion rate variance, and waste liquid is dense; Dye dark product, dye dosage is large, and cost is high; More seriously discharge contains the waste water of dyestuff, contaminated environment in a large number.With acid dyeing, because dye molecule is little, between fur is opened and opened, color is basically identical between batches, produces and is easy to control, and because dermatotome is seldom painted, dye dosage is few, economical and practical, but dyeing color fastness is poor.Along with fur industrial expansion, fur and goods thereof have been proposed to requirement higher, that upgrade both at home and abroad, impel fur manufacture craft constantly to be improved.How to improve dye-uptake, reduce energy consumption and environmental pollution, become fur dyeing and finishing workshop section problem in the urgent need to address.
Summary of the invention
Object of the present invention provides a kind of being correlated with to improve processing step and clothes and the Treatment technique for processing thereof of optimizing the fur coat hair of relevant optimal parameter, good fluffy softness is compared in acquisition with acrylic fibers plush fabric, smoothly very scrape, plentiful and have the leather wear of fur coat hair of the style of bony, solved leather of the prior art and fur material is coarse, the technological deficiency of the poor and difficult processing of comfortableness, reached the distinctive relief combination of cutting apart style and fur of low-cost high added value and leather, when having comfortableness concurrently, incorporate rhetorical function, the part of leather wear and the effect of whole aesthetic feeling have been realized.
For achieving the above object, the present invention is achieved by the following technical solutions:
The clothes Treatment technique for processing of a kind of fur coat hair of the present invention, the fur coat hair that comprises successively the processing of fur coat hair, dyeing, leather wear style is cut apart the woollen yarn knitting of splicing and fur coat hair; It is characterized in that,
Described fur coat hair is processed and is comprised the stage of selecting materials, pretreatment stage, tanning stage and arrangement stage;
Described selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet with goats hair, the length of described goats hair is 22～25mm, its fineness average out to 11～13um;
Described pretreatment stage: comprise scrape that fat is softening, anticorrosion, immersion washing, the standing step of pickling, its technique is as follows successively: first monoethanolamine, acetic acid and alcohol are mixed to get to mixed liquor by the mol ratio of 1.1: 1.1: 2.3, by the outside skin graft of described sheepskin sheet with goats hair one facing up, the one side of the inner side skin graft of described sheepskin sheet is immersed in described mixed liquor 24～26 minutes completely and softens, wherein, the temperature of described mixed liquor is remained on always to 75 ℃～77 ℃; Homogeneous mixture 6-8g/100cm by a coating industry of the inner side skin graft of the described sheepskin sheet after softening with salt and alum
2, then keep carrying out anticorrosion in 165～168 minutes in-11～-13 ℃ of refrigerators; Then get by weight soda ash: anion surfactant: water=4: 4.3: 1200 obtain solutions, the described solution preparing is put into paddle-tumble, again the sheepskin sheet after anticorrosion and goats hair are immersed completely to the washing of soaking of described obtain solution in paddle-tumble, remain on 65 ℃ always, paddle in every 15 minutes is stirred once, each stirring 2 minutes, stirs 11 times and takes out afterwards, at 35～37 ℃ of low temperature dryings; Again the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after described immersion washing is invaded and got by weight hydrochloric acid: industrial salt: water=7: the pickling solution being made at 9: 14 carries out pickling to be processed and standing 3 hours, and allotment pH value remains on 5.7-6.2 always; Then with clear water, clean to neutral, then at 32～34 ℃ of low temperature dryings;
The described tanning stage: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after pretreatment stage is placed in another paddle-tumble, get by weight chromium aluminium composite tanning agent: soda ash: water=1.6 part: 17 parts: 1100 parts of preparation tanning solution are poured in described another paddle-tumble, in 32-34 ℃, tanning is 33 minutes, in described another paddle-tumble, add again 0.7 part of 1.1 parts of above-mentioned weight portion Polymer Synthesizing tanning agents and FG syntans, tanning is cleaned after processing and taking out for 2 hours, to be cleanedly to neutrality, divide successively four-stage to dry: 36 ℃ of temperature, humidity 42%, dry 16 minutes; In 32 ℃ of temperature, humidity 67%, is dried 23 minutes again; In 34 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65% time, is dried 12 minutes again; In 31 ℃ of temperature, humidity 48% time, is dried 9 minutes again;
The described arrangement stage: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned dry 9 minutes of the described tanning stage are processed maintains the temperature at 36.3 ℃, the one side of using trichloro-ethylene, alcohol and alcohol ketone to be sprayed on the inner side skin graft of described sheepskin sheet according to the weight portion mixed liquor of 4: 6: 2.7 keeps 47 minutes, re-uses reducing bleach the one side of the inner side skin graft of sheepskin sheet described in it is carried out to bleaching;
Described dyeing: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned fur coat hair is processed is dyeed through five grooves respectively, wherein, front two grooves of dye liquor in five tub colorings are disperse yellow, disperse yellow content 1.1g/L, pH value 9, a middle groove is indigo, indigo content 1.4g/L, pH value 9.6, last two grooves are soft grooves, softening agent content 13g/L, temperature 45 C; Five grooves are all five to soak three pressures, pressure roller pressure: first 2kg, and second 2.3kg, the 3rd 2.6kg, in five groove temperature, front two grooves are that 66 ℃, a middle groove are 38 ℃ of 54 ℃, last two groove, regain 3%, percentage elongation 0.6%;
The fur coat hair of described leather wear style is cut apart splicing: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned dyeing is processed is positioned its marginal position point by laser locating apparatus, by the marginal position point of location is connected, shear out triangle, square, rhombus, trapezoidal, ellipse or irregular figure, according to the appearance profile of leather wear style underpants body, neck, sleeve, left front and pocket, cutting apart and modification place splicing stitching;
The woollen yarn knitting of described fur coat hair: the fur coat hair of above-mentioned leather wear style is cut apart to repeatedly evenly combing of the goats hair on the sheepskin sheet after splicing stitching in splicing, and according to the pattern on leather wear, goats hair combing is divided into a plurality of regions, each region is divided into multiply again, per share goats hair radical is different, then weaves into respectively colored type and pigtail knot forms the pattern on three-dimensional leather wear; Wherein, in weaving into colored type and pigtail knot process, use adhesive tape sizing.
Wherein, as an optimal way, above-mentioned selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet with goats hair, the length of described goats hair is 25mm, its fineness average out to 11.3um.
As an optimal way, in above-mentioned pretreatment stage, again the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after described immersion washing is invaded and got by weight hydrochloric acid: industrial salt: water=7: the pickling solution being made at 9: 14 carries out pickling to be processed and standing 3 hours, and allotment pH value remains on 5.9 always; Then with clear water, clean to neutral, then at 33 ℃ of low temperature dryings.
Meanwhile, also have the clothes of processing the fur coat hair obtaining by the clothes Treatment technique for processing of described fur coat hair.
Be worth to propose: above-mentioned two optimal ways have reached the special-effect of the twice that flexibility is alternate manner.
Advantage of the present invention and effect can not only overcome the deficiencies in the prior art, can realize and meet the design component that FUR GARMENT material is valuable, have craftsmanship recreation composition.Single processing mode relative environmental protection increases value-added content of product; Meanwhile, the present invention also can be used for the local interspersing design of FUR GARMENT, also can be used for the design of whole clothing, and effect is completely different, is imbued with fashion feeling of freshness.More have the hobby variation ，You clothes company along with clothes owner to carry out Secondary Design arrangement, have the changeable fashion function of a clothing, its comfortableness and ornamental aesthetic feeling are especially good.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with the specific embodiment, further set forth the present invention.
Embodiment 1:
A clothes Treatment technique for processing for fur coat hair, the fur coat hair that comprises successively the processing of fur coat hair, dyeing, leather wear style is cut apart the woollen yarn knitting of splicing and fur coat hair; It is characterized in that,
Described fur coat hair is processed and is comprised the stage of selecting materials, pretreatment stage, tanning stage and arrangement stage;
Described selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet with goats hair, the length of described goats hair is 25mm, its fineness average out to 11～13um;
Described pretreatment stage: comprise scrape that fat is softening, anticorrosion, immersion washing, the standing step of pickling, its technique is as follows successively: first monoethanolamine, acetic acid and alcohol are mixed to get to mixed liquor by the mol ratio of 1.1: 1.1: 2.3, by the outside skin graft of described sheepskin sheet with goats hair one facing up, the one side of the inner side skin graft of described sheepskin sheet is immersed in described mixed liquor 24～26 minutes completely and softens, wherein, the temperature of described mixed liquor is remained on always to 75 ℃～77 ℃; Homogeneous mixture 6-8g/100cm by a coating industry of the inner side skin graft of the described sheepskin sheet after softening with salt and alum
2, then keep carrying out anticorrosion in 165～168 minutes in-11～-13 ℃ of refrigerators; Then get by weight soda ash: anion surfactant: water=4: 4.3: 1200 obtain solutions, the described solution preparing is put into paddle-tumble, again the sheepskin sheet after anticorrosion and goats hair are immersed completely to the washing of soaking of described obtain solution in paddle-tumble, remain on 65 ℃ always, paddle in every 15 minutes is stirred once, each stirring 2 minutes, stirs 11 times and takes out afterwards, at 35～37 ℃ of low temperature dryings; Again the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after described immersion washing is invaded and got by weight hydrochloric acid: industrial salt: water=7: the pickling solution being made at 9: 14 carries out pickling to be processed and standing 3 hours, and allotment pH value remains on 5.7-6.2 always; Then with clear water, clean to neutral, then at 32～34 ℃ of low temperature dryings;
The described tanning stage: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after pretreatment stage is placed in another paddle-tumble, get by weight chromium aluminium composite tanning agent: soda ash: water=1.6 part: 17 parts: 1100 parts of preparation tanning solution are poured in described another paddle-tumble, in 32-34 ℃, tanning is 33 minutes, in described another paddle-tumble, add again 0.7 part of 1.1 parts of above-mentioned weight portion Polymer Synthesizing tanning agents and FG syntans, tanning is cleaned after processing and taking out for 2 hours, to be cleanedly to neutrality, divide successively four-stage to dry: 36 ℃ of temperature, humidity 42%, dry 16 minutes; In 32 ℃ of temperature, humidity 67%, is dried 23 minutes again; In 34 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65% time, is dried 12 minutes again; In 31 ℃ of temperature, humidity 48% time, is dried 9 minutes again;
The described arrangement stage: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned dry 9 minutes of the described tanning stage are processed maintains the temperature at 36.3 ℃, the one side of using trichloro-ethylene, alcohol and alcohol ketone to be sprayed on the inner side skin graft of described sheepskin sheet according to the weight portion mixed liquor of 4: 6: 2.7 keeps 47 minutes, re-uses reducing bleach the one side of the inner side skin graft of sheepskin sheet described in it is carried out to bleaching;
Described dyeing: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned fur coat hair is processed is dyeed through five grooves respectively, wherein, front two grooves of dye liquor in five tub colorings are disperse yellow, disperse yellow content 1.1g/L, pH value 9, a middle groove is indigo, indigo content 1.4g/L, pH value 9.6, last two grooves are soft grooves, softening agent content 13g/L, temperature 45 C; Five grooves are all five to soak three pressures, pressure roller pressure: first 2kg, and second 2.3kg, the 3rd 2.6kg, in five groove temperature, front two grooves are that 66 ℃, a middle groove are 38 ℃ of 54 ℃, last two groove, regain 3%, percentage elongation 0.6%;
The fur coat hair of described leather wear style is cut apart splicing: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned dyeing is processed is positioned its marginal position point by laser locating apparatus, by the marginal position point of location is connected, shear out triangle, square, rhombus, trapezoidal, ellipse or irregular figure, according to the appearance profile of leather wear style underpants body, neck, sleeve, left front and pocket, cutting apart and modification place splicing stitching;
The woollen yarn knitting of described fur coat hair: the fur coat hair of above-mentioned leather wear style is cut apart to repeatedly evenly combing of the goats hair on the sheepskin sheet after splicing stitching in splicing, and according to the pattern on leather wear, goats hair combing is divided into a plurality of regions, each region is divided into multiply again, per share goats hair radical is different, then weaves into respectively colored type and pigtail knot forms the pattern on three-dimensional leather wear; Wherein, in weaving into colored type and pigtail knot process, use adhesive tape sizing.
Embodiment 2:
A clothes Treatment technique for processing for fur coat hair, the fur coat hair that comprises successively the processing of fur coat hair, dyeing, leather wear style is cut apart the woollen yarn knitting of splicing and fur coat hair; It is characterized in that,
Described fur coat hair is processed and is comprised the stage of selecting materials, pretreatment stage, tanning stage and arrangement stage;
Described selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet with goats hair, the length of described goats hair is 25mm, its fineness average out to 11.3um;
Described pretreatment stage: comprise scrape that fat is softening, anticorrosion, immersion washing, the standing step of pickling, its technique is as follows successively: first monoethanolamine, acetic acid and alcohol are mixed to get to mixed liquor by the mol ratio of 1.1: 1.1: 2.3, by the outside skin graft of described sheepskin sheet with goats hair one facing up, the one side of the inner side skin graft of described sheepskin sheet is immersed in described mixed liquor 24～26 minutes completely and softens, wherein, the temperature of described mixed liquor is remained on always to 75 ℃～77 ℃; Homogeneous mixture 6-8g/100cm by a coating industry of the inner side skin graft of the described sheepskin sheet after softening with salt and alum
2, then keep carrying out anticorrosion in 165～168 minutes in-11～-13 ℃ of refrigerators; Then get by weight soda ash: anion surfactant: water=4: 4.3: 1200 obtain solutions, the described solution preparing is put into paddle-tumble, again the sheepskin sheet after anticorrosion and goats hair are immersed completely to the washing of soaking of described obtain solution in paddle-tumble, remain on 65 ℃ always, paddle in every 15 minutes is stirred once, each stirring 2 minutes, stirs 11 times and takes out afterwards, at 35～37 ℃ of low temperature dryings; Again the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after described immersion washing is invaded and got by weight hydrochloric acid: industrial salt: water=7: the pickling solution being made at 9: 14 carries out pickling to be processed and standing 3 hours, and allotment pH value remains on 5.7-6.2 always; Then with clear water, clean to neutral, then at 32～34 ℃ of low temperature dryings;
The described tanning stage: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after pretreatment stage is placed in another paddle-tumble, get by weight chromium aluminium composite tanning agent: soda ash: water=1.6 part: 17 parts: 1100 parts of preparation tanning solution are poured in described another paddle-tumble, in 32-34 ℃, tanning is 33 minutes, in described another paddle-tumble, add again 0.7 part of 1.1 parts of above-mentioned weight portion Polymer Synthesizing tanning agents and FG syntans, tanning is cleaned after processing and taking out for 2 hours, to be cleanedly to neutrality, divide successively four-stage to dry: 36 ℃ of temperature, humidity 42%, dry 16 minutes; In 32 ℃ of temperature, humidity 67%, is dried 23 minutes again; In 34 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65% time, is dried 12 minutes again; In 31 ℃ of temperature, humidity 48% time, is dried 9 minutes again;
The described arrangement stage: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned dry 9 minutes of the described tanning stage are processed maintains the temperature at 36.3 ℃, the one side of using trichloro-ethylene, alcohol and alcohol ketone to be sprayed on the inner side skin graft of described sheepskin sheet according to the weight portion mixed liquor of 4: 6: 2.7 keeps 47 minutes, re-uses reducing bleach the one side of the inner side skin graft of sheepskin sheet described in it is carried out to bleaching;
Described dyeing: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned fur coat hair is processed is dyeed through five grooves respectively, wherein, front two grooves of dye liquor in five tub colorings are disperse yellow, disperse yellow content 1.1g/L, pH value 9, a middle groove is indigo, indigo content 1.4g/L, pH value 9.6, last two grooves are soft grooves, softening agent content 13g/L, temperature 45 C; Five grooves are all five to soak three pressures, pressure roller pressure: first 2kg, and second 2.3kg, the 3rd 2.6kg, in five groove temperature, front two grooves are that 66 ℃, a middle groove are 38 ℃ of 54 ℃, last two groove, regain 3%, percentage elongation 0.6%;
The fur coat hair of described leather wear style is cut apart splicing: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned dyeing is processed is positioned its marginal position point by laser locating apparatus, by the marginal position point of location is connected, shear out triangle, square, rhombus, trapezoidal, ellipse or irregular figure, according to the appearance profile of leather wear style underpants body, neck, sleeve, left front and pocket, cutting apart and modification place splicing stitching;
The woollen yarn knitting of described fur coat hair: the fur coat hair of above-mentioned leather wear style is cut apart to repeatedly evenly combing of the goats hair on the sheepskin sheet after splicing stitching in splicing, and according to the pattern on leather wear, goats hair combing is divided into a plurality of regions, each region is divided into multiply again, per share goats hair radical is different, then weaves into respectively colored type and pigtail knot forms the pattern on three-dimensional leather wear; Wherein, in weaving into colored type and pigtail knot process, use adhesive tape sizing.
Embodiment 3:
A clothes Treatment technique for processing for fur coat hair, the fur coat hair that comprises successively the processing of fur coat hair, dyeing, leather wear style is cut apart the woollen yarn knitting of splicing and fur coat hair; It is characterized in that,
Described fur coat hair is processed and is comprised the stage of selecting materials, pretreatment stage, tanning stage and arrangement stage;
Described selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet with goats hair, the length of described goats hair is 25mm, its fineness average out to 11.3um;
Described pretreatment stage: comprise scrape that fat is softening, anticorrosion, immersion washing, the standing step of pickling, its technique is as follows successively: first monoethanolamine, acetic acid and alcohol are mixed to get to mixed liquor by the mol ratio of 1.1: 1.1: 2.3, by the outside skin graft of described sheepskin sheet with goats hair one facing up, the one side of the inner side skin graft of described sheepskin sheet is immersed in described mixed liquor 24～26 minutes completely and softens, wherein, the temperature of described mixed liquor is remained on always to 75 ℃～77 ℃; Homogeneous mixture 6-8g/100cm by a coating industry of the inner side skin graft of the described sheepskin sheet after softening with salt and alum
2, then keep carrying out anticorrosion in 165～168 minutes in-11～-13 ℃ of refrigerators; Then get by weight soda ash: anion surfactant: water=4: 4.3: 1200 obtain solutions, the described solution preparing is put into paddle-tumble, again the sheepskin sheet after anticorrosion and goats hair are immersed completely to the washing of soaking of described obtain solution in paddle-tumble, remain on 65 ℃ always, paddle in every 15 minutes is stirred once, each stirring 2 minutes, stirs 11 times and takes out afterwards, at 35～37 ℃ of low temperature dryings; Again the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after described immersion washing is invaded and got by weight hydrochloric acid: industrial salt: water=7: the pickling solution being made at 9: 14 carries out pickling to be processed and standing 3 hours, and allotment pH value remains on 5.9 always; Then with clear water, clean to neutral, then at 33 ℃ of low temperature dryings;
The described tanning stage: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after pretreatment stage is placed in another paddle-tumble, get by weight chromium aluminium composite tanning agent: soda ash: water=1.6 part: 17 parts: 1100 parts of preparation tanning solution are poured in described another paddle-tumble, in 32-34 ℃, tanning is 33 minutes, in described another paddle-tumble, add again 0.7 part of 1.1 parts of above-mentioned weight portion Polymer Synthesizing tanning agents and FG syntans, tanning is cleaned after processing and taking out for 2 hours, to be cleanedly to neutrality, divide successively four-stage to dry: 36 ℃ of temperature, humidity 42%, dry 16 minutes; In 32 ℃ of temperature, humidity 67%, is dried 23 minutes again; In 34 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65% time, is dried 12 minutes again; In 31 ℃ of temperature, humidity 48% time, is dried 9 minutes again;
The described arrangement stage: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned dry 9 minutes of the described tanning stage are processed maintains the temperature at 36.3 ℃, the one side of using trichloro-ethylene, alcohol and alcohol ketone to be sprayed on the inner side skin graft of described sheepskin sheet according to the weight portion mixed liquor of 4: 6: 2.7 keeps 47 minutes, re-uses reducing bleach the one side of the inner side skin graft of sheepskin sheet described in it is carried out to bleaching;
Described dyeing: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned fur coat hair is processed is dyeed through five grooves respectively, wherein, front two grooves of dye liquor in five tub colorings are disperse yellow, disperse yellow content 1.1g/L, pH value 9, a middle groove is indigo, indigo content 1.4g/L, pH value 9.6, last two grooves are soft grooves, softening agent content 13g/L, temperature 45 C; Five grooves are all five to soak three pressures, pressure roller pressure: first 2kg, and second 2.3kg, the 3rd 2.6kg, in five groove temperature, front two grooves are that 66 ℃, a middle groove are 38 ℃ of 54 ℃, last two groove, regain 3%, percentage elongation 0.6%;
The fur coat hair of described leather wear style is cut apart splicing: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned dyeing is processed is positioned its marginal position point by laser locating apparatus, by the marginal position point of location is connected, shear out triangle, square, rhombus, trapezoidal, ellipse or irregular figure, according to the appearance profile of leather wear style underpants body, neck, sleeve, left front and pocket, cutting apart and modification place splicing stitching;
The woollen yarn knitting of described fur coat hair: the fur coat hair of above-mentioned leather wear style is cut apart to repeatedly evenly combing of the goats hair on the sheepskin sheet after splicing stitching in splicing, and according to the pattern on leather wear, goats hair combing is divided into a plurality of regions, each region is divided into multiply again, per share goats hair radical is different, then weaves into respectively colored type and pigtail knot forms the pattern on three-dimensional leather wear; Wherein, in weaving into colored type and pigtail knot process, use adhesive tape sizing.
Embodiment 4:
A clothes Treatment technique for processing for fur coat hair, specifically can also comprise: process-nine processing steps such as rear arrangement-quality inspection packing of make-ending of pre-treatment-graphic analysis-methods analyst-style analysis-surrounding target are selected-operated to material:
(1) material is selected: select the animal fur that hair matter is smooth, have certain length, the quality of Zhongweiof Ningxia, northwest China goats hair is the goats hair like silk, and its length can reach 25cm, and gloss is very strong, soft magnificent, animal skin whole body length differs, and needs to select longer part;
(2) operation pre-treatment: these longer workprints are combined and made, can guarantee like this length and the quality of hair, add the directionality that will note hair man-hour, also can utilize its directionality to carry out non-conventional design and can obtain beyond thought effect;
(3) graphic analysis: after positioning by laser positioning instrument, before making, hair is divided into groups, at its hair root, punish out different shapes, as triangle, square, rhombus, trapezoidal, boundary curve face shape, staggered curvilinear plane shape, these shapes can be that single figure builds, also can be the combination of various shape, with the style forming in the similar dress designing of abundant shape, cut apart, there is aesthetic feeling of the design and rhetorical function;
(4) methods analyst: make around graphic shape, separate again thigh, feature size after hair is divided into group, the per share hair of the how many decisions thickness of gross weight, capital affects its moulding, and the processing of the combination cohesive position between figure is proper, and method different-effect will be different;
(5) style analysis: the pieces of different strands is carried out to style woollen yarn knitting, style is divided into two kinds of rule and non-rules, rule type comprises two kinds of forms three-dimensional and half solid, solid type refers to and can move on fur, half solid type is the just card-cut skin texture of tool of relief type, solid type is divided into sub-thread according to its woollen yarn knitting number of share of stock, bifilar, three strands, the mode of multiply or compound, also or in several strands, have mutually staggered unrest and orderly mode, half solid type is coiled into independent flower or is knitted the continuous pigtail knot that is pasting surface on surface, non-rule type comprises entanglement knotting, deliberately design casual harsh feeling, the decadent effect of not arranging, the gimmick mode of knot is various, can tie a knot by single thigh, tangled up and knotted or staggered knotting etc.,
(6) surrounding target is made: to hair woollen yarn knitting carry out planning and designing good after, find best start point, particularly continuous woollen yarn knitting must find starting point, woollen yarn knitting process can only be manual, power, density, the elasticity of woollen yarn knitting must be suitable, necessarily avoid slack and undisciplined, will unclamp after a time;
(7) ending is processed: finish up to such an extent that badly just easily unclamp, therefore, in this link, necessarily select firmly, applicable method is fixed, can gel fix, shortcoming is bad change in the future, can elastic force adhesive tape fix, shortcoming is easily to come off, and needs to find a kind of material and have adhesive tape that stickiness can reuse again or band rope etc. specially;
(8) after, arrange: the pigtail after woollen yarn knitting is tied to the processing of can dyeing, can integral body dye, also can dye or hang and dye from the mode of Mao Fengran from hair root, it is carried out high-temperature shaping, sprays certain shape-fixing agent etc.;
(9) quality inspection packing: by the part after this PROCESS FOR TREATMENT, test, with pulling, drag pigtail tieing and whether softly see, pinch and to pinch pigtail knot mid portion and see whether in a down-to-earth manner, reexamine finishing and packing after the fastness of ending part, the pigtail knot of noting some solid type can be forced into, and particularly notes its directionality and design consistent during packing.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned specific embodiment, is not deviating under spirit of the present invention and real situation thereof, and those skilled in the art can make according to the present invention various corresponding changes and distortion.Within these corresponding changes and distortion all should belong to the protection domain of claims of the present invention.
Claims (4)
1. a clothes Treatment technique for processing for fur coat hair, comprises that the fur coat hair of the processing of fur coat hair, dyeing, leather wear style cuts apart the woollen yarn knitting of splicing and fur coat hair successively; It is characterized in that,
Described fur coat hair is processed and is comprised the stage of selecting materials, pretreatment stage, tanning stage and arrangement stage;
Described selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet with goats hair, the length of described goats hair is 22～25mm, its fineness average out to 11～13um;
Described pretreatment stage: comprise scrape that fat is softening, anticorrosion, immersion washing, the standing step of pickling, its technique is as follows successively: first monoethanolamine, acetic acid and alcohol are mixed to get to mixed liquor by the mol ratio of 1.1:1.1:2.3, by the outside skin graft of described sheepskin sheet with goats hair one facing up, the one side of the inner side skin graft of described sheepskin sheet is immersed in described mixed liquor 24～26 minutes completely and softens, wherein, the temperature of described mixed liquor is remained on always to 75 ℃～77 ℃; Homogeneous mixture 6-8g/100cm by a coating industry of the inner side skin graft of the described sheepskin sheet after softening with salt and alum
2, then keep carrying out anticorrosion in 165～168 minutes in-11～-13 ℃ of refrigerators; Then get by weight soda ash: anion surfactant: water=4:4.3:1200 obtain solution, the described solution preparing is put into paddle-tumble, again the sheepskin sheet after anticorrosion and goats hair are immersed completely to the washing of soaking of described obtain solution in paddle-tumble, remain on 65 ℃ always, paddle in every 15 minutes is stirred once, each stirring 2 minutes, stirs 11 times and takes out afterwards, at 35～37 ℃ of low temperature dryings; Again the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after described immersion washing is invaded and got by weight hydrochloric acid: the pickling solution that industrial salt: water=7:9:14 is made into carries out pickling to be processed and standing 3 hours, and allotment pH value remains on 5.7-6.2 always; Then with clear water, clean to neutral, then at 32～34 ℃ of low temperature dryings;
The described tanning stage: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after pretreatment stage is placed in another paddle-tumble, get by weight chromium aluminium composite tanning agent: soda ash: water=1.6 part: 17 parts: 1100 parts of preparation tanning solution are poured in described another paddle-tumble, in 32-34 ℃, tanning is 33 minutes, in described another paddle-tumble, add again 0.7 part of 1.1 parts of above-mentioned weight portion Polymer Synthesizing tanning agents and FG syntans, tanning is cleaned after processing and taking out for 2 hours, to be cleanedly to neutrality, divide successively four-stage to dry: 36 ℃ of temperature, humidity 42%, dry 16 minutes; In 32 ℃ of temperature, humidity 67%, is dried 23 minutes again; In 34 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65% time, is dried 12 minutes again; In 31 ℃ of temperature, humidity 48% time, is dried 9 minutes again;
The described arrangement stage: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned dry 9 minutes of the described tanning stage are processed maintains the temperature at 36.3 ℃, the one side of using trichloro-ethylene, alcohol and alcohol ketone to be sprayed on the inner side skin graft of described sheepskin sheet according to the mixed liquor of weight portion 4:6:2.7 keeps 47 minutes, re-uses reducing bleach the one side of the inner side skin graft of described sheepskin sheet is carried out to bleaching;
Described dyeing: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned fur coat hair is processed is dyeed through five grooves respectively, wherein, front two grooves of dye liquor in five tub colorings are disperse yellow, disperse yellow content 1.1g/L, pH value 9, a middle groove is indigo, indigo content 1.4g/L, pH value 9.6, last two grooves are soft grooves, softening agent content 13g/L, temperature 45 C; Five grooves are all five to soak three pressures, pressure roller pressure: first 2kg, and second 2.3kg, the 3rd 2.6kg, in five groove temperature, front two grooves are that 66 ℃, a middle groove are 38 ℃ of 54 ℃, last two groove, regain 3%, percentage elongation 0.6%;
The fur coat hair of described leather wear style is cut apart splicing: the sheepskin sheet with goats hair after above-mentioned dyeing is processed is positioned its marginal position point by laser locating apparatus, by the marginal position point of location is connected, shear out triangle, square, rhombus, trapezoidal, ellipse or irregular figure, according to the appearance profile of leather wear style underpants body, neck, sleeve, left front and pocket, cutting apart and modification place splicing stitching;
The woollen yarn knitting of described fur coat hair: the fur coat hair of above-mentioned leather wear style is cut apart to repeatedly evenly combing of the goats hair on the sheepskin sheet after splicing stitching in splicing, and according to the pattern on leather wear, goats hair combing is divided into a plurality of regions, each region is divided into multiply again, per share goats hair radical is different, then weaves into respectively colored type and pigtail knot forms the pattern on three-dimensional leather wear; Wherein, in weaving into colored type and pigtail knot process, use adhesive tape sizing.
2. the clothes Treatment technique for processing of fur coat hair according to claim 1, is characterized in that, above-mentioned selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet with goats hair, the length of described goats hair is 25mm, its fineness average out to 11.3um.
3. the clothes Treatment technique for processing of fur coat hair according to claim 1, is characterized in that, allocates pH value and remain on 5.9 always described in above-mentioned pretreatment stage; Again at 33 ℃ of low temperature dryings.
4. the clothes of the fur coat hair obtaining according to the clothes Treatment technique for processing processing of the fur coat hair described in claim 1 or 2 or 3.
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| CN103045776A (en) * | 2012-12-14 | 2013-04-17 | 常熟常圣服饰有限公司 | Method for producing fur clothes |
| CN103627826A (en) * | 2013-11-27 | 2014-03-12 | 常熟市赵市圣丹龙制衣厂 | Processing method of fur of fur clothes |
| ES2899303T3 (en) * | 2018-12-11 | 2022-03-10 | Agfa Nv | Decorated natural leather |
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| RU2004129712A (en) * | 2004-10-13 | 2006-03-20 | Равиль Фатхисламович Ситдыков (RU) | METHOD FOR LIQUID TREATMENT OF LEATHER-FUR RAW MATERIALS AND DEVICE FOR ITS IMPLEMENTATION |
| CN200996020Y (en) * | 2006-09-08 | 2007-12-26 | 金枫 | Natural-plant fragrant sheet skin |
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| RU2008150183A (en) * | 2008-12-19 | 2010-06-27 | Государственное образовательное учреждение высшего профессионального образования Московский государственный университет дизайна и | METHOD FOR PROCESSING FUR SEMI-FINISHED PRODUCT |
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| CN1563430A (en) * | 2004-03-24 | 2005-01-12 | 陈仲仁 | Method for tempering fur coat of goose down through strong fiber for fastening down hair |
| RU2004129712A (en) * | 2004-10-13 | 2006-03-20 | Равиль Фатхисламович Ситдыков (RU) | METHOD FOR LIQUID TREATMENT OF LEATHER-FUR RAW MATERIALS AND DEVICE FOR ITS IMPLEMENTATION |
| CN200996020Y (en) * | 2006-09-08 | 2007-12-26 | 金枫 | Natural-plant fragrant sheet skin |
| CN101736097A (en) * | 2008-11-22 | 2010-06-16 | 际华三五一二皮革服装有限公司 | Method for manufacturing white tanned shearling |
| CN101445842A (en) * | 2008-12-15 | 2009-06-03 | 嘉兴学院 | Manufacturing method of double-faced waterproofing pile-face dual-purpose leather of indumentum and leather boards |
| RU2008150183A (en) * | 2008-12-19 | 2010-06-27 | Государственное образовательное учреждение высшего профессионального образования Московский государственный университет дизайна и | METHOD FOR PROCESSING FUR SEMI-FINISHED PRODUCT |
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