CN102657402A - Fur garment and processing technology thereof - Google Patents
Fur garment and processing technology thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN102657402A CN102657402A CN201210143134XA CN201210143134A CN102657402A CN 102657402 A CN102657402 A CN 102657402A CN 201210143134X A CN201210143134X A CN 201210143134XA CN 201210143134 A CN201210143134 A CN 201210143134A CN 102657402 A CN102657402 A CN 102657402A
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Abstract
The invention relates to a fur garment and a processing technology thereof. The processing technology sequentially comprises the following steps: processing fur, dyeing, segmenting and splicing the fur according to the style of leatherwear and intertwining the fur. According to the processing technology disclosed by the invention, the technical defects that leather and fur materials in the prior art are coarse, poor in comfort and difficult to process can be solved, low cost and high added value are achieved, the combination of the peculiar segmentation style and the three-dimensional effect of the fur is also achieved, and the fur garment not only has comfort, but also integrates the embellishing function, and can realize the beneficial effect of local and whole aesthetics of the leatherwear.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to the leather processing technical field, the particularly machining field of leather wear relates in particular to a kind of clothes and processed technology thereof of fur coat hair.
Background technology
Reform and open up to the outside world three during the last ten years, the leather industry of China has played immeasurable effect for the city commodity market of exporting goods and earning foreign currency, enrich, development pastoral area, rural area economy.Yet the leather industry development is restricted because of the blowdown problem again.At present, the pressure of environmental protection has become the trend of closing down or carrying out the regional transfer of leather industry.
At present, 98% above tannery uses akali sulphide lime tradition process hides depilation liming technology, and its advantage is that expense is low, quick, depilation is clean, can adapt to the production of various leathers; But it is big that its shortcoming is a material usage, and COD, BOD, TSS value and sulfide content are very high in the waste liquid, and the waste liquid post precipitation produces a lot of mud, and difficult treatment is brought serious pollution to environment.Because akali sulphide content is high and to the toxic action of living nature, it is a difficult problem that the biochemistry of vulcanized sodium depilation raffinate purifies.From waste water, removing sulfide now has not been technical problem, but a cost issues.Another problem is to make hide fiber reach sufficient separation with large quantities of lime.Lime and calcium salt have increased mud amount, thereby have increased the traffic expense of the first step and the second step mud.A large amount of lime consumptions has also increased liming and has washed the difficulty of Protein Recovery in the graywall body lotion.
Along with the continuous development of science and technology, existing fur dyeing all is once to dye a kind of color.The fur article that has multicolour pattern all is to be spliced with the single fur of various colors, and manufacturing procedure is numerous and diverse, production efficiency is low and cost is high.The splicing of fur is to adopt craft or machinery to make, and the periphery of every block of fur is prone to be worn, and make with line also to be prone to rubbed, thereby the fur article that causes being spliced is shorter service life.Often color is stiff, the division is clearly demarcated for the multicolour pattern that is spliced.
Improve in the treatment process in the processing that leather is upgraded day by day, retanning occupies critical role in fur industry, and it is that the good skin base of tanning is carried out another tanning; Can replenish the deficiency of just tanning; Improve the stability of skin base chemically-resistant effect, help follow-up housekeeping operation, improve serviceability; Increase value-added content of product to greatest extent, be suitable for the needs of various uses.
At present, chrome tanning agent retanning, aldehyde tanning agent retanning, aluminium tanningagent retanning or syntans, vegetable tanning agent, resinae tanning agent retanning several different methods are generally taked in the fur retanning, and effect that different retanning methods reaches and excellent, shortcoming thereof have nothing in common with each other.The advantage of chrome tanning agent retanning is to improve the shrinkage temperature of dermatotome, and the stability of the fullness of increase dermatotome, elasticity, flexibility, chemical-resistant reagent and anionic dye are to the colourability of dermatotome; Along with the fur industrial expansion, requirement higher, that upgrade has been proposed for fur and goods thereof both at home and abroad, impel fur manufacturing technology constantly to be able to improve.How to improve comfortableness and aesthetic property, become the problem that fur retanning operation presses for solution.
Simultaneously, we know that in the shearling manufacture process, tanning is absolutely necessary, very important operation, and the skin through tanning is not a rawhide, can't use; Become leather through rawhide after the tanning, possessed softness, anti-storage, water-permeable and air permeable, water-fastly people such as washed and use needed, dress ornament performance.For a long time, the fabrication and processing of shearling adopts chrome tanning always, and this method is made shearling and environment all is harmful to sewage disposal from the tanning operation.China pays much attention to environmental protection work in recent years, and energy-conservation, reduction of discharging, consumption-reducing technological and product are carried out in exploitation energetically, and full-scale development is produced environmentally friendly machine.And the manufacturing of chrome tanning agent also causes bigger pollution to environment, so development environment-friendly type shearling preparation method is significant to environmental protection.
In addition, also occurred the processing technology of the material of imitated sheepskin hair both at home and abroad, existing in the market artificial fur ubiquity is ventilative; Disadvantages such as hygroscopicity difference static is big; And natural fur coat exists flavor to have a strong smell, body weight, problem such as hair matter difference is big; With the patent No. EP10987642 among the America and Europe is that typical patent of invention " pure wool imitation sheepskin " is though preferably resolve the problems referred to above; Can only when making ready-made clothes, still need join garment material in addition as material in the clothes but still existing problems are existing pure wool imitation woolfell, therefore be badly in need of a kind ofly can making the pure wool imitation woolfell that garment lining has the garment material style again simultaneously.
Meanwhile, dyeing occupies critical role in fur industry, and it can improve the outward appearance and the color of hair, makes it to satisfy fashion and popular style, improves serviceability, increases their added value to greatest extent, is suitable for the needs of various uses.
At present, fur dyeing is generally taked metal complex (neutrality) dyestuff and acid dyes.Homemade neutral dyeing fastness is good, the mixed liquor of anti-formic acid, formaldehyde, alcohol and formic acid, formaldehyde and alcohol, and the hot iron nondiscolouring, but because its dye molecule is big, and compatibility is poor, aberration was bigger between fur was opened and opened; Again because of its easy colorizing on dermatotome, be prone to upper plate when dyeing temperature is low, as the technology of taking to improve temperature, reducing pH value, have the part dyestuff to migrate on the hair again from dermatotome, very easily cause batch with criticize between aberration; The control of dying operation is required high, dyeing temperature is high, the time is long, needs ability completion in 66～69 ℃, 3～3.5 hours usually.Simultaneously, the infiltration and the dyeing speed of dyestuff are slow, the exhaustion rate variance, and waste liquid is dense; Dye dark product, dye dosage is big, and cost is high; Even more serious is to discharge the waste water that contains dyestuff in a large number, contaminated environment.Use acid dyeing, because dye molecule is little, between fur was opened and opened, color basically identical between criticizing and criticizing was produced and is easy to control, because dermatotome is seldom painted, dye dosage is few, and is economical and practical, but the color fastness that dyes is poor.Along with the fur industrial expansion, requirement higher, that upgrade has been proposed for fur and goods thereof both at home and abroad, impel the fur manufacture craft constantly to be able to improve.How to improve dye-uptake, reduce energy consumption and environmental pollution, become the problem that fur dyeing and finishing workshop section presses for solution.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention provides a kind of being correlated with to improve the clothes and the processed technology thereof of processing step and the fur coat hair of optimizing relevant optimal parameter; Acquisition compares good fluffy softness, smoothly very scrapes with acrylic fibers plush lining, plentiful and the leather wear of fur coat hair of the style of bony is arranged; Solved that leather of the prior art and fur material are coarse, comfortableness difference and be difficult for the technological deficiency of processing; Having reached the distinctive style of cutting apart of low-cost high added value and leather combines with the relief of fur; When having comfortableness concurrently, incorporate rhetorical function, realized the part of leather wear and the effect of the aesthetic feeling of integral body.
For realizing above-mentioned purpose, the present invention realizes through following technical scheme:
The clothes processed technology of a kind of fur coat hair of the present invention, the fur coat hair that comprises the processing of fur coat hair, dyeing, leather wear style is successively cut apart the woollen yarn knitting of splicing and fur coat hair; It is characterized in that,
Said fur coat hair is handled and is comprised the stage of selecting materials, pretreatment stage, tanning stage and arrangement stage;
Said selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair for use, the length of said goats hair is 22～25mm, its fineness average out to 11～13um;
Said pretreatment stage: comprise scrape that fat is softening, anticorrosion, immersion washing, pickling leave standstill step; Its technology was following successively: at first monoethanolamine, acetate and alcohol are mixed obtaining mixed liquor by 1.1: 1.1: 2.3 mol ratio; The one side that the outside skin graft of said sheepskin sheet is had a goats hair upwards; The one side of the inboard skin graft of said sheepskin sheet is immersed in the said mixed liquor fully softened in 24～26 minutes, wherein, the temperature of said mixed liquor was remained on 75 ℃～77 ℃ always; With a coating industry of the inboard skin graft of the said sheepskin sheet after softening homogeneous mixture 6-8g/100cm with salt and alum
2, in-11～-13 ℃ of refrigerators, keep carrying out anticorrosion in 165～168 minutes again; Get soda ash then by weight: anion surfactant: water=4: 4.3: 1200 obtain solutions; The said solution for preparing is put into paddle-tumble, again the sheepskin sheet after anticorrosion and goats hair are immersed the washing of soaking of said obtain solution in the paddle-tumble fully, remain on 65 ℃ always; Paddle in per 15 minutes is stirred once; The each stirring 2 minutes, stirs 11 times after taking-up, at 35～37 ℃ of low temperature dryings; The sheepskin sheet that has goats hair after the said immersion washing is invaded again and get hydrochloric acid by weight: industrial salt: the pickling solution of water=be made at 7: 9: 14 carries out pickling to be handled and left standstill 3 hours, and the allotment pH value remains on 5.7-6.2 always; Clean to neutral, again at 32～34 ℃ of low temperature dryings with clear water then;
The said tanning stage: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair behind pretreatment stage is placed in another paddle-tumble; Get chromium aluminium composite tanning agent by weight: soda ash: water=1.6 part: 17 parts: 1100 parts of preparation tanning solution are poured in said another paddle-tumble; Tanning is 33 minutes in 32-34 ℃; In said another paddle-tumble, add 1.1 parts of above-mentioned weight portion Polymer Synthesizing tanning agents and 0.7 part of FG syntans again, tanning is handled and was taken out the back in 2 hours and clean, and to be cleanedly to neutrality, divides four-stage to dry successively: 36 ℃ of temperature; Humidity 42%, dry 16 minutes; Again in 32 ℃ of temperature, humidity 67%, dry 23 minutes; Again in 34 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65% time, dry 12 minutes; Again in 31 ℃ of temperature, humidity 48% time, dry 9 minutes;
The said arrangement stage: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair after the processing in above-mentioned dry 9 minutes in said tanning stage is maintained the temperature at 36.3 ℃; The one side of using trichloro-ethylene, alcohol and alcohol ketone to be sprayed on the inboard skin graft of said sheepskin sheet according to 4: 6: 2.7 mixed liquor of weight portion kept 47 minutes, re-uses reducing bleach the one side of the inboard skin graft of its said sheepskin sheet is bleached processing;
Said dyeing: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair that will pass through after above-mentioned fur coat hair is handled dyes through five grooves respectively, and wherein, preceding two grooves of the dye liquor in five tub colorings are disperse yellow; Disperse yellow content 1.1g/L, pH value 9, a middle groove is an indigo; Indigo content 1.4g/L, pH value 9.6, last two grooves are soft grooves; Softening agent content 13g/L, 45 ℃ of temperature; Five grooves all are five to soak three pressures, pressure roller pressure: first 2kg, and second 2.3kg, the 3rd 2.6kg, preceding two grooves are that 66 ℃, a middle groove are 38 ℃ of 54 ℃, last two grooves in the five groove temperature, regain 3%, percentage elongation 0.6%;
The fur coat hair of said leather wear style is cut apart splicing: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair that will pass through after above-mentioned dyeing is handled positions its marginal position point through laser locating apparatus; Connect through marginal position point and to shear out triangle, square, rhombus, trapezoidal, ellipse or irregular figure, cutting apart and modification place splicing is sewed up based on the appearance profile of leather wear style underpants body, neck, sleeve, left front and pocket to the location;
The woollen yarn knitting of said fur coat hair: the fur coat hair of above-mentioned leather wear style is cut apart repeatedly evenly combing of the goats hair on the sheepskin sheet after the splicing stitching in the splicing; And according to the pattern on the leather wear; The goats hair combing is divided into a plurality of zones; Each zone is divided into multiply again, and per share goats hair radical is different, weaves into colored type and pigtail knot more respectively and forms the pattern on the three-dimensional leather wear; Wherein, in weaving into colored type and pigtail knot process, use the adhesive tape typing.
Wherein, as an optimal way, above-mentioned selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair for use, the length of said goats hair is 25mm, its fineness average out to 11.3um.
As an optimal way; The sheepskin sheet that has goats hair after the said immersion washing is invaded in the above-mentioned pretreatment stage again and get hydrochloric acid by weight: industrial salt: the pickling solution of water=be made at 7: 9: 14 carries out pickling to be handled and left standstill 3 hours, and the allotment pH value remains on 5.9 always; Clean to neutral, again at 33 ℃ of low temperature dryings with clear water then.
Simultaneously, the clothes that also have the fur coat hair that the clothes processed processes through described fur coat hair obtains.
What be worth proposition is: it is the special-effect of the twice of alternate manner that above-mentioned two optimal ways have reached flexibility.
Advantage of the present invention and effect can not only overcome the deficiency of prior art, can realize meeting the valuable design component of FUR GARMENT material, have craftsmanship recreation composition.Single processing mode relative environmental protection increases value-added content of product; Meanwhile, the present invention also can be used for the local interspersing design of FUR GARMENT, also can be used for the design of whole clothing, and effect is completely different, is imbued with the fashion feeling of freshness.More have the hobby along with the clothes owner to change, carry out the Secondary Design arrangement by clothes company, have the changeable fashion function of a clothing, its comfortableness and ornamental aesthetic feeling are good especially.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with the specific embodiment, further set forth the present invention.
Embodiment 1:
A kind of clothes processed technology of fur coat hair, the fur coat hair that comprises the processing of fur coat hair, dyeing, leather wear style is successively cut apart the woollen yarn knitting of splicing and fur coat hair; It is characterized in that,
Said fur coat hair is handled and is comprised the stage of selecting materials, pretreatment stage, tanning stage and arrangement stage;
Said selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair for use, the length of said goats hair is 25mm, its fineness average out to 11～13um;
Said pretreatment stage: comprise scrape that fat is softening, anticorrosion, immersion washing, pickling leave standstill step; Its technology was following successively: at first monoethanolamine, acetate and alcohol are mixed obtaining mixed liquor by 1.1: 1.1: 2.3 mol ratio; The one side that the outside skin graft of said sheepskin sheet is had a goats hair upwards; The one side of the inboard skin graft of said sheepskin sheet is immersed in the said mixed liquor fully softened in 24～26 minutes, wherein, the temperature of said mixed liquor was remained on 75 ℃～77 ℃ always; With a coating industry of the inboard skin graft of the said sheepskin sheet after softening homogeneous mixture 6-8g/100cm with salt and alum
2, in-11～-13 ℃ of refrigerators, keep carrying out anticorrosion in 165～168 minutes again; Get soda ash then by weight: anion surfactant: water=4: 4.3: 1200 obtain solutions; The said solution for preparing is put into paddle-tumble, again the sheepskin sheet after anticorrosion and goats hair are immersed the washing of soaking of said obtain solution in the paddle-tumble fully, remain on 65 ℃ always; Paddle in per 15 minutes is stirred once; The each stirring 2 minutes, stirs 11 times after taking-up, at 35～37 ℃ of low temperature dryings; The sheepskin sheet that has goats hair after the said immersion washing is invaded again and get hydrochloric acid by weight: industrial salt: the pickling solution of water=be made at 7: 9: 14 carries out pickling to be handled and left standstill 3 hours, and the allotment pH value remains on 5.7-6.2 always; Clean to neutral, again at 32～34 ℃ of low temperature dryings with clear water then;
The said tanning stage: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair behind pretreatment stage is placed in another paddle-tumble; Get chromium aluminium composite tanning agent by weight: soda ash: water=1.6 part: 17 parts: 1100 parts of preparation tanning solution are poured in said another paddle-tumble; Tanning is 33 minutes in 32-34 ℃; In said another paddle-tumble, add 1.1 parts of above-mentioned weight portion Polymer Synthesizing tanning agents and 0.7 part of FG syntans again, tanning is handled and was taken out the back in 2 hours and clean, and to be cleanedly to neutrality, divides four-stage to dry successively: 36 ℃ of temperature; Humidity 42%, dry 16 minutes; Again in 32 ℃ of temperature, humidity 67%, dry 23 minutes; Again in 34 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65% time, dry 12 minutes; Again in 31 ℃ of temperature, humidity 48% time, dry 9 minutes;
The said arrangement stage: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair after the processing in above-mentioned dry 9 minutes in said tanning stage is maintained the temperature at 36.3 ℃; The one side of using trichloro-ethylene, alcohol and alcohol ketone to be sprayed on the inboard skin graft of said sheepskin sheet according to 4: 6: 2.7 mixed liquor of weight portion kept 47 minutes, re-uses reducing bleach the one side of the inboard skin graft of its said sheepskin sheet is bleached processing;
Said dyeing: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair that will pass through after above-mentioned fur coat hair is handled dyes through five grooves respectively, and wherein, preceding two grooves of the dye liquor in five tub colorings are disperse yellow; Disperse yellow content 1.1g/L, pH value 9, a middle groove is an indigo; Indigo content 1.4g/L, pH value 9.6, last two grooves are soft grooves; Softening agent content 13g/L, 45 ℃ of temperature; Five grooves all are five to soak three pressures, pressure roller pressure: first 2kg, and second 2.3kg, the 3rd 2.6kg, preceding two grooves are that 66 ℃, a middle groove are 38 ℃ of 54 ℃, last two grooves in the five groove temperature, regain 3%, percentage elongation 0.6%;
The fur coat hair of said leather wear style is cut apart splicing: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair that will pass through after above-mentioned dyeing is handled positions its marginal position point through laser locating apparatus; Connect through marginal position point and to shear out triangle, square, rhombus, trapezoidal, ellipse or irregular figure, cutting apart and modification place splicing is sewed up based on the appearance profile of leather wear style underpants body, neck, sleeve, left front and pocket to the location;
The woollen yarn knitting of said fur coat hair: the fur coat hair of above-mentioned leather wear style is cut apart repeatedly evenly combing of the goats hair on the sheepskin sheet after the splicing stitching in the splicing; And according to the pattern on the leather wear; The goats hair combing is divided into a plurality of zones; Each zone is divided into multiply again, and per share goats hair radical is different, weaves into colored type and pigtail knot more respectively and forms the pattern on the three-dimensional leather wear; Wherein, in weaving into colored type and pigtail knot process, use the adhesive tape typing.
Embodiment 2:
A kind of clothes processed technology of fur coat hair, the fur coat hair that comprises the processing of fur coat hair, dyeing, leather wear style is successively cut apart the woollen yarn knitting of splicing and fur coat hair; It is characterized in that,
Said fur coat hair is handled and is comprised the stage of selecting materials, pretreatment stage, tanning stage and arrangement stage;
Said selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair for use, the length of said goats hair is 25mm, its fineness average out to 11.3um;
Said pretreatment stage: comprise scrape that fat is softening, anticorrosion, immersion washing, pickling leave standstill step; Its technology was following successively: at first monoethanolamine, acetate and alcohol are mixed obtaining mixed liquor by 1.1: 1.1: 2.3 mol ratio; The one side that the outside skin graft of said sheepskin sheet is had a goats hair upwards; The one side of the inboard skin graft of said sheepskin sheet is immersed in the said mixed liquor fully softened in 24～26 minutes, wherein, the temperature of said mixed liquor was remained on 75 ℃～77 ℃ always; With a coating industry of the inboard skin graft of the said sheepskin sheet after softening homogeneous mixture 6-8g/100cm with salt and alum
2, in-11～-13 ℃ of refrigerators, keep carrying out anticorrosion in 165～168 minutes again; Get soda ash then by weight: anion surfactant: water=4: 4.3: 1200 obtain solutions; The said solution for preparing is put into paddle-tumble, again the sheepskin sheet after anticorrosion and goats hair are immersed the washing of soaking of said obtain solution in the paddle-tumble fully, remain on 65 ℃ always; Paddle in per 15 minutes is stirred once; The each stirring 2 minutes, stirs 11 times after taking-up, at 35～37 ℃ of low temperature dryings; The sheepskin sheet that has goats hair after the said immersion washing is invaded again and get hydrochloric acid by weight: industrial salt: the pickling solution of water=be made at 7: 9: 14 carries out pickling to be handled and left standstill 3 hours, and the allotment pH value remains on 5.7-6.2 always; Clean to neutral, again at 32～34 ℃ of low temperature dryings with clear water then;
The said tanning stage: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair behind pretreatment stage is placed in another paddle-tumble; Get chromium aluminium composite tanning agent by weight: soda ash: water=1.6 part: 17 parts: 1100 parts of preparation tanning solution are poured in said another paddle-tumble; Tanning is 33 minutes in 32-34 ℃; In said another paddle-tumble, add 1.1 parts of above-mentioned weight portion Polymer Synthesizing tanning agents and 0.7 part of FG syntans again, tanning is handled and was taken out the back in 2 hours and clean, and to be cleanedly to neutrality, divides four-stage to dry successively: 36 ℃ of temperature; Humidity 42%, dry 16 minutes; Again in 32 ℃ of temperature, humidity 67%, dry 23 minutes; Again in 34 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65% time, dry 12 minutes; Again in 31 ℃ of temperature, humidity 48% time, dry 9 minutes;
The said arrangement stage: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair after the processing in above-mentioned dry 9 minutes in said tanning stage is maintained the temperature at 36.3 ℃; The one side of using trichloro-ethylene, alcohol and alcohol ketone to be sprayed on the inboard skin graft of said sheepskin sheet according to 4: 6: 2.7 mixed liquor of weight portion kept 47 minutes, re-uses reducing bleach the one side of the inboard skin graft of its said sheepskin sheet is bleached processing;
Said dyeing: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair that will pass through after above-mentioned fur coat hair is handled dyes through five grooves respectively, and wherein, preceding two grooves of the dye liquor in five tub colorings are disperse yellow; Disperse yellow content 1.1g/L, pH value 9, a middle groove is an indigo; Indigo content 1.4g/L, pH value 9.6, last two grooves are soft grooves; Softening agent content 13g/L, 45 ℃ of temperature; Five grooves all are five to soak three pressures, pressure roller pressure: first 2kg, and second 2.3kg, the 3rd 2.6kg, preceding two grooves are that 66 ℃, a middle groove are 38 ℃ of 54 ℃, last two grooves in the five groove temperature, regain 3%, percentage elongation 0.6%;
The fur coat hair of said leather wear style is cut apart splicing: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair that will pass through after above-mentioned dyeing is handled positions its marginal position point through laser locating apparatus; Connect through marginal position point and to shear out triangle, square, rhombus, trapezoidal, ellipse or irregular figure, cutting apart and modification place splicing is sewed up based on the appearance profile of leather wear style underpants body, neck, sleeve, left front and pocket to the location;
The woollen yarn knitting of said fur coat hair: the fur coat hair of above-mentioned leather wear style is cut apart repeatedly evenly combing of the goats hair on the sheepskin sheet after the splicing stitching in the splicing; And according to the pattern on the leather wear; The goats hair combing is divided into a plurality of zones; Each zone is divided into multiply again, and per share goats hair radical is different, weaves into colored type and pigtail knot more respectively and forms the pattern on the three-dimensional leather wear; Wherein, in weaving into colored type and pigtail knot process, use the adhesive tape typing.
Embodiment 3:
A kind of clothes processed technology of fur coat hair, the fur coat hair that comprises the processing of fur coat hair, dyeing, leather wear style is successively cut apart the woollen yarn knitting of splicing and fur coat hair; It is characterized in that,
Said fur coat hair is handled and is comprised the stage of selecting materials, pretreatment stage, tanning stage and arrangement stage;
Said selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair for use, the length of said goats hair is 25mm, its fineness average out to 11.3um;
Said pretreatment stage: comprise scrape that fat is softening, anticorrosion, immersion washing, pickling leave standstill step; Its technology was following successively: at first monoethanolamine, acetate and alcohol are mixed obtaining mixed liquor by 1.1: 1.1: 2.3 mol ratio; The one side that the outside skin graft of said sheepskin sheet is had a goats hair upwards; The one side of the inboard skin graft of said sheepskin sheet is immersed in the said mixed liquor fully softened in 24～26 minutes, wherein, the temperature of said mixed liquor was remained on 75 ℃～77 ℃ always; With a coating industry of the inboard skin graft of the said sheepskin sheet after softening homogeneous mixture 6-8g/100cm with salt and alum
2, in-11～-13 ℃ of refrigerators, keep carrying out anticorrosion in 165～168 minutes again; Get soda ash then by weight: anion surfactant: water=4: 4.3: 1200 obtain solutions; The said solution for preparing is put into paddle-tumble, again the sheepskin sheet after anticorrosion and goats hair are immersed the washing of soaking of said obtain solution in the paddle-tumble fully, remain on 65 ℃ always; Paddle in per 15 minutes is stirred once; The each stirring 2 minutes, stirs 11 times after taking-up, at 35～37 ℃ of low temperature dryings; The sheepskin sheet that has goats hair after the said immersion washing is invaded again and get hydrochloric acid by weight: industrial salt: the pickling solution of water=be made at 7: 9: 14 carries out pickling to be handled and left standstill 3 hours, and the allotment pH value remains on 5.9 always; Clean to neutral, again at 33 ℃ of low temperature dryings with clear water then;
The said tanning stage: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair behind pretreatment stage is placed in another paddle-tumble; Get chromium aluminium composite tanning agent by weight: soda ash: water=1.6 part: 17 parts: 1100 parts of preparation tanning solution are poured in said another paddle-tumble; Tanning is 33 minutes in 32-34 ℃; In said another paddle-tumble, add 1.1 parts of above-mentioned weight portion Polymer Synthesizing tanning agents and 0.7 part of FG syntans again, tanning is handled and was taken out the back in 2 hours and clean, and to be cleanedly to neutrality, divides four-stage to dry successively: 36 ℃ of temperature; Humidity 42%, dry 16 minutes; Again in 32 ℃ of temperature, humidity 67%, dry 23 minutes; Again in 34 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65% time, dry 12 minutes; Again in 31 ℃ of temperature, humidity 48% time, dry 9 minutes;
The said arrangement stage: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair after the processing in above-mentioned dry 9 minutes in said tanning stage is maintained the temperature at 36.3 ℃; The one side of using trichloro-ethylene, alcohol and alcohol ketone to be sprayed on the inboard skin graft of said sheepskin sheet according to 4: 6: 2.7 mixed liquor of weight portion kept 47 minutes, re-uses reducing bleach the one side of the inboard skin graft of its said sheepskin sheet is bleached processing;
Said dyeing: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair that will pass through after above-mentioned fur coat hair is handled dyes through five grooves respectively, and wherein, preceding two grooves of the dye liquor in five tub colorings are disperse yellow; Disperse yellow content 1.1g/L, pH value 9, a middle groove is an indigo; Indigo content 1.4g/L, pH value 9.6, last two grooves are soft grooves; Softening agent content 13g/L, 45 ℃ of temperature; Five grooves all are five to soak three pressures, pressure roller pressure: first 2kg, and second 2.3kg, the 3rd 2.6kg, preceding two grooves are that 66 ℃, a middle groove are 38 ℃ of 54 ℃, last two grooves in the five groove temperature, regain 3%, percentage elongation 0.6%;
The fur coat hair of said leather wear style is cut apart splicing: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair that will pass through after above-mentioned dyeing is handled positions its marginal position point through laser locating apparatus; Connect through marginal position point and to shear out triangle, square, rhombus, trapezoidal, ellipse or irregular figure, cutting apart and modification place splicing is sewed up based on the appearance profile of leather wear style underpants body, neck, sleeve, left front and pocket to the location;
The woollen yarn knitting of said fur coat hair: the fur coat hair of above-mentioned leather wear style is cut apart repeatedly evenly combing of the goats hair on the sheepskin sheet after the splicing stitching in the splicing; And according to the pattern on the leather wear; The goats hair combing is divided into a plurality of zones; Each zone is divided into multiply again, and per share goats hair radical is different, weaves into colored type and pigtail knot more respectively and forms the pattern on the three-dimensional leather wear; Wherein, in weaving into colored type and pigtail knot process, use the adhesive tape typing.
Embodiment 4:
A kind of clothes processed technology of fur coat hair specifically can also comprise: material selection-operation pre-treatment-graphic analysis-methods analyst-style analysis-nine processing steps such as surrounding target making-ending processing-back arrangement-quality inspection packing:
(1) material is selected: select the animal fur that Mao Zhishun is sliding, have certain-length, the quality of Ningxia zhong wei wool is the goats hair like silk, and its length can reach 25cm; And gloss is very strong; Soft magnificent, animal skin whole body length differs, and needs to select long part;
(2) operate pre-treatment: these long workprints are made up make, can guarantee the length and the quality of hair like this, add the directionality that to note hair man-hour, also can utilize its directionality to carry out unconventional design and can obtain beyond thought effect;
(3) graphic analysis: after positioning by the laser positioning appearance; Before making hair is divided into groups, punish out different shapes, like triangle, square, rhombus, trapezoidal, boundary curve face shape, staggered curvilinear plane shape at its hair root; These shapes can be that single figure makes up; Also can be the combination of multiple shape, cut apart to have design aesthetic feeling and rhetorical function with the style that forms in the similar dress designing of abundant shape;
(4) methods analyst: make around graphic shape, hair is divided well tell thigh again, feature size after the group; Gross weight how much determine per share hair thickness; The capital influences its moulding, and the processing of the combination cohesive position between the figure is desirable works as, and the method different-effect will be different;
(5) style analysis: different strands pieces are carried out the style woollen yarn knitting; Style is divided into two kinds of rule and non-rules, and the rule type comprises that three-dimensional and half two kinds of three-dimensional forms, solid type are meant and on fur, can move; Half solid type is the skin texture that just has embossment of relief type; Solid type is divided into sub-thread, bifilar, three strands, the mode of multiply or compound based on its woollen yarn knitting number of share of stock, and also or staggered unrest is arranged and orderly mode in several strands mutually, half solid type is coiled into independent flower or knitted the continuous pigtail knot that is pasting surface on surface; Non-rule type comprises entanglement knotting, deliberately designs casual harsh feeling; The decadent effect of not arranging, the gimmick mode of knot is various, can be single burst knotting, tangled up and knotted or staggered knotting etc.;
(6) surrounding target is made: to the hair woollen yarn knitting carry out planning and designing good after; Seek the best start point; Particularly continuous woollen yarn knitting must find starting point, and the woollen yarn knitting process can only be manual, and the power of woollen yarn knitting, density, elasticity must be suitable; Necessarily avoid slack and undisciplined, will unclamp after a time;
(7) ending is handled: finish up to such an extent that badly just unclamp easily; Therefore, necessarily select for use method firm, that be fit to fix in this link, but gel is fixed; Shortcoming is bad in the future change; But the elastic force adhesive tape is fixed, and shortcoming is to be prone to come off, and needs to seek a kind of material and have adhesive tape that stickiness can reuse again or band rope etc. specially;
(8) back arrangement: to the processing of can dyeing of the knot of the pigtail behind the woollen yarn knitting, can integral body dye, also can dye or hang and dye, it is carried out high-temperature shaping, sprays certain shape-fixing agent etc. from hair root from the mode of Mao Fengran;
(9) quality inspection packing: will pass through the part after this PROCESS FOR TREATMENT; Test; Drag the pigtail tieing and whether softly see with pulling, pinch and to pinch pigtail knot mid portion and see whether in a down-to-earth manner, reexamine finishing and packing after the fastness of ending part; The pigtail knot of noting some solid type can be forced into, and particularly notes its directionality and design consistent during packing.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned specific embodiment, is not deviating under spirit of the present invention and the nature thereof, and the those skilled in the art can make various corresponding changes and distortion according to the present invention.These corresponding changes and distortion all should belong within the protection domain of accompanying claims of the present invention.
Claims (4)
1. the clothes processed technology of a fur coat hair comprises that successively the fur coat hair of the processing of fur coat hair, dyeing, leather wear style cuts apart the woollen yarn knitting of splicing and fur coat hair; It is characterized in that,
Said fur coat hair is handled and is comprised the stage of selecting materials, pretreatment stage, tanning stage and arrangement stage;
Said selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair for use, the length of said goats hair is 22～25mm, its fineness average out to 11～13um;
Said pretreatment stage: comprise scrape that fat is softening, anticorrosion, immersion washing, pickling leave standstill step; Its technology was following successively: at first monoethanolamine, acetate and alcohol are mixed obtaining mixed liquor by 1.1: 1.1: 2.3 mol ratio; The one side that the outside skin graft of said sheepskin sheet is had a goats hair upwards; The one side of the inboard skin graft of said sheepskin sheet is immersed in the said mixed liquor fully softened in 24～26 minutes, wherein, the temperature of said mixed liquor was remained on 75 ℃～77 ℃ always; With a coating industry of the inboard skin graft of the said sheepskin sheet after softening homogeneous mixture 6-8g/100cm with salt and alum
2, in-11～-13 ℃ of refrigerators, keep carrying out anticorrosion in 165～168 minutes again; Get soda ash then by weight: anion surfactant: water=4: 4.3: 1200 obtain solutions; The said solution for preparing is put into paddle-tumble, again the sheepskin sheet after anticorrosion and goats hair are immersed the washing of soaking of said obtain solution in the paddle-tumble fully, remain on 65 ℃ always; Paddle in per 15 minutes is stirred once; The each stirring 2 minutes, stirs 11 times after taking-up, at 35～37 ℃ of low temperature dryings; The sheepskin sheet that has goats hair after the said immersion washing is invaded again and get hydrochloric acid by weight: industrial salt: the pickling solution of water=be made at 7: 9: 14 carries out pickling to be handled and left standstill 3 hours, and the allotment pH value remains on 5.7-6.2 always; Clean to neutral, again at 32～34 ℃ of low temperature dryings with clear water then;
The said tanning stage: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair behind pretreatment stage is placed in another paddle-tumble; Get chromium aluminium composite tanning agent by weight: soda ash: water=1.6 part: 17 parts: 1100 parts of preparation tanning solution are poured in said another paddle-tumble; Tanning is 33 minutes in 32-34 ℃; In said another paddle-tumble, add 1.1 parts of above-mentioned weight portion Polymer Synthesizing tanning agents and 0.7 part of FG syntans again, tanning is handled and was taken out the back in 2 hours and clean, and to be cleanedly to neutrality, divides four-stage to dry successively: 36 ℃ of temperature; Humidity 42%, dry 16 minutes; Again in 32 ℃ of temperature, humidity 67%, dry 23 minutes; Again in 34 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65% time, dry 12 minutes; Again in 31 ℃ of temperature, humidity 48% time, dry 9 minutes;
The said arrangement stage: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair after the processing in above-mentioned dry 9 minutes in said tanning stage is maintained the temperature at 36.3 ℃; The one side of using trichloro-ethylene, alcohol and alcohol ketone to be sprayed on the inboard skin graft of said sheepskin sheet according to 4: 6: 2.7 mixed liquor of weight portion kept 47 minutes, re-uses reducing bleach the one side of the inboard skin graft of its said sheepskin sheet is bleached processing;
Said dyeing: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair that will pass through after above-mentioned fur coat hair is handled dyes through five grooves respectively, and wherein, preceding two grooves of the dye liquor in five tub colorings are disperse yellow; Disperse yellow content 1.1g/L, pH value 9, a middle groove is an indigo; Indigo content 1.4g/L, pH value 9.6, last two grooves are soft grooves; Softening agent content 13g/L, 45 ℃ of temperature; Five grooves all are five to soak three pressures, pressure roller pressure: first 2kg, and second 2.3kg, the 3rd 2.6kg, preceding two grooves are that 66 ℃, a middle groove are 38 ℃ of 54 ℃, last two grooves in the five groove temperature, regain 3%, percentage elongation 0.6%;
The fur coat hair of said leather wear style is cut apart splicing: the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair that will pass through after above-mentioned dyeing is handled positions its marginal position point through laser locating apparatus; Connect through marginal position point and to shear out triangle, square, rhombus, trapezoidal, ellipse or irregular figure, cutting apart and modification place splicing is sewed up based on the appearance profile of leather wear style underpants body, neck, sleeve, left front and pocket to the location;
The woollen yarn knitting of said fur coat hair: the fur coat hair of above-mentioned leather wear style is cut apart repeatedly evenly combing of the goats hair on the sheepskin sheet after the splicing stitching in the splicing; And according to the pattern on the leather wear; The goats hair combing is divided into a plurality of zones; Each zone is divided into multiply again, and per share goats hair radical is different, weaves into colored type and pigtail knot more respectively and forms the pattern on the three-dimensional leather wear; Wherein, in weaving into colored type and pigtail knot process, use the adhesive tape typing.
2. the clothes processed technology of fur coat hair according to claim 1 is characterized in that above-mentioned selecting materials the stage: select the sheepskin sheet that has goats hair for use, the length of said goats hair is 25mm, its fineness average out to 11.3um.
3. the clothes processed technology of fur coat hair according to claim 1; It is characterized in that; The sheepskin sheet that has goats hair after the said immersion washing is invaded in the above-mentioned pretreatment stage again and get hydrochloric acid by weight: industrial salt: the pickling solution of water=be made at 7: 9: 14 carries out pickling to be handled and left standstill 3 hours, and the allotment pH value remains on 5.9 always; Clean to neutral, again at 33 ℃ of low temperature dryings with clear water then.
4. the clothes of the fur coat hair that obtains according to the clothes processed processes of claim 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 described fur coat hairs.
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| CN103045776A (en) * | 2012-12-14 | 2013-04-17 | 常熟常圣服饰有限公司 | Method for producing fur clothes |
| CN103627826A (en) * | 2013-11-27 | 2014-03-12 | 常熟市赵市圣丹龙制衣厂 | Processing method of fur of fur clothes |
| CN113166819A (en) * | 2018-12-11 | 2021-07-23 | 爱克发有限公司 | Decorative natural leather |
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| CN1563430A (en) * | 2004-03-24 | 2005-01-12 | 陈仲仁 | Method for tempering fur coat of goose down through strong fiber for fastening down hair |
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