CN1022937C

CN1022937C - Comfortable fabrics of high durability

Info

Publication number: CN1022937C
Application number: CN 89106999
Authority: CN
Inventors: 詹姆斯·拉尔夫·格林
Original assignee: EI Du Pont de Nemours and Co
Current assignee: EIDP Inc
Priority date: 1989-09-08
Filing date: 1989-09-08
Publication date: 1993-12-01
Anticipated expiration: 2004-09-08
Also published as: CN1050060A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a woven fabric made of union yarn of high modulus fibre and low modulus fibre, which has comfortability and high durability to hard surface abrasion.

Description

Comfortable fabrics of high durability

The present invention relates to fabric not only very attractive in appearance but also highly durable, it is suitable for making wears long, comfortable overcoat of life-span.This fabric is to be made by the blended yarn of high-modulus and low modulus organic fiber.

Whole fabrics of being made by high modulus fibre (modulus is greater than 200 gram/dtex (g/dtex)) is that the overcoat of key factor is useful to making durability.When with hard thing mantle friction, the ABRASION RESISTANCE of this kind fabric is higher than the fabric of being made by low modulus fiber (modulus is less than 100g/dtex).But, the fabric that can not show a candle to low modulus fiber system by the fabric aesthetic property and the comfortableness of high modulus fibre system.For overcoat, both needed the aesthetic property and the comfortableness of low modulus fiber (for example cotton) fabric, need the durability of high modulus fibre (for example PPTA (PPD-T)) fabric again.

The performance data of abrasion test is normally expected a good sign of wearing the life-span.Have and to be applicable to making multiple clothes, the particularly clothes that in steel mill and colliery, wear the high-wearing feature on hard thing surface and the fabric of better appearance.

An example of at present commercially available not only comfortable but also durable defibre fabric is a kind of 3 * 1 TWILL CLOTH that contain 70% cotton, 15% nylon and 15% polyester.Its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE (Specific Wyzenbeek Abrasion Resistance) (as giving a definition) and is about 1～1.5 circulation (Cycles)/g/m ²

COTTON FABRIC pair is lower with the ABRASION RESISTANCE of hard thing mantle friction, and the ABRASION RESISTANCE of PPD-T fabric is higher.But by the fabric of cotton and PPD-T blended yarn system, its ABRASION RESISTANCE is only high slightly than all-cotton fabric, and more much lower than full PPD-T fabric in the prior art.

Put outward and adopt thermoplastic patch to stick on the position of serious wear, improved ABRASION RESISTANCE.But the boardness height of sticking patch, moisture vapor permeability is poor, comes off easily.

The present invention provides and a kind ofly separates the woven fabric of the yarn system of organic short fiber with low mould by Gao Mo, and it has good fabric aesthetic property and extra high durability.

Contain at least 15% modulus staple fibre in this fabric warp thread greater than 200g/dtex.30～92% of fabric is made up of less than the staple fibre of 100g/dtex modulus, and the tightness of this fabric is at least 1.0, and the fibre compact degree is more than 1.0.Preferred fabric at least the ratio of one side tie up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE with by the grey cloth of the identical fabric Unit Weight of 100% high-modulus staple fibre system and structure tie up with the ratio on the one side auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE compare big at least by 25%, preferably big at least 50%.In some preferred fabric, at least simultaneously, preferably the ratio on two sides is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE greater than 5 circulation/g/m ², more preferably greater than 10 circulation/g/m ²The percentage composition of high modulus fibre should be at least 15% in the warp thread, so that reach high-wearing feature, high modulus fibre should be 8～70% in the whole fabric.High level will make fabric become stiffening, coarse, lack the fabric aesthetic property.It is better to contain at least 30% low modulus staple fibre in the warp thread.High modulus fibre is not essential in the weft yarn of woven fabric.In some preferred fabric, warp thread is made up of the tight blended yarn of crimped staple.Except as otherwise noted, the percentage composition of fabric middle short fiber is meant percetage by weight.

The invention provides the Woven fabric of making comfortable and wear-resisting clothes.This kind fabric especially is suitable as the Work Clothes in steel plant and colliery.

Figure 1A and 1B are respectively the schematic diagrames with the cross section overlooked of fabric of the present invention.The position of fabric abrasion is represented at position in the vertical view in the circle.

Fig. 2 A and 2B are respectively overlooking and schematic cross-section corresponding to the grey cloth of the structure of fabric among Figure 1A and the 1B and basis weights.The position of fabric abrasion is represented at position in the vertical view in the circle.

In implementing a kind of method of the present invention, the warp thread of woven into fabric is the sheath-core yarn of crimped staple, and wherein high modulus fibre consists of core, consists of sheath by the low modulus synthetic fibers and wraps on the spot. Grey cloth is carried out the autoclave steam pressure can produce required contraction, thereby it is at least bigger by 25% than tieing up auspicious pik wearability by the ratio of grey cloth on the same face of the same structure of 100% high-modulus short fiber system and basis weights to make the ratio of fabric tie up auspicious pik wearability. Can in autoclave, the grey cloth volume be exposed in the high steam when carrying out the autoclave steam pressure. The time of steam pressure and temperature are commonly known in the art, induce the lax or crystallization of synthetic fibers, thereby make web contraction about 5%. If but pending fabric contains at least 30% thermal contraction low modulus fiber, for example nylon, polyester or other synthetic fibers, this technology can be used as effective contraction method.

In another kind mode of the present invention, the fabric that the spun yarn that the routine that contains necessary amount high modulus fibre (that is containing at least 15% in warp thread) and at least 30% cotton is spun into is made carries out flame treatment, can reach enough contractions, thereby obtain fabric of the present invention. This fabric carries out flame treatment with tetrakis hydroxymethyl phosphonium chloride urea condensation thing, and roasting is solid then. In this process, grey cloth is washed, drying is drawn then by a kind of aqueous solution, and it is inhaled among the cotton fiber by Zhong phosphonium compounds. Make then the fabric substantially dry (water content approximately less than fabric weight 15%), by the mode of knowing in the prior art fabric is exposed in liquefied ammonia or the ammonia again. Then usually fabric in the warp thread direction tensioning, but in the situation of not tensioning of weft direction by drip washing and oven dry. Cotton fiber in the fabric molten rising widely when soaking with phosphonium compounds, and when oven dry at least part of molten rising that disappear, produce and shrink. Fire-retardant fabric also will carry out common machine shrunk at last to be processed. When processing with the permanent material that changes the fabric weight of fire retardant or other, whether the short fiber weight of measuring yarn and fabric forms should be after fabric treating, and not before processing, be fabric of the present invention in order to measure this fabric.

Another kind method of preparation product of the present invention is to carry out mercerization finish by containing at least 15% high modulus fibre with the woven fabric of the warp thread system of at least 30% cotton spinning, to reach desired contraction, to obtain product of the present invention. Usually mercerization finish is that the grey cloth traction short time is passed through alkaline solution, and for example naoh concentration 10～24%, and temperature is high to about 82 ℃ (180 °F), By 30 seconds time. The applicant has been found that the result that the double mercerized finish processing can obtain to require. Must be noted that to limit the time of clothing in contact alkaline solution, avoid high modulus fibre to degrade. With fabric drip washing, with the acetic acid neutralization, and in the warp thread direction tensioning, dry in the situation that weft direction relaxes then. When fabric was soaked by alkaline solution, the cotton fiber in the fabric is swelling widely, and molten the rising that disappear when oven dry produces contraction. Should be pointed out that mercerization finish can change the weight of fiber in the grey cloth, thereby be enough to make the short fiber weight of the fabric of processing to form to some extent change. After mercerization finish, fabric also can carry out common machine shrunk again to be processed.

After the monofilament optical processing, carry out the result that flame treatment also can obtain to require.

Hereinafter take repeatedly the method for wash cycle as the method that reaches necessary amount of contraction to the fabric of core-skin yarn in the example 10.

In above-mentioned each method, when shrinking, the low modulus fiber in the woven fabric on the spot high modulus fibre constraint or blockade are lived, produced fabric abrasion resistance hereinafter described.When fabric contains contractile high modulus fibre, and when still keeping the character of high-modulus after shrinking, also collapsible high modulus fibre meets the requirements of the result except the contraction low modulus fiber.No matter preparation method how, the tightness of pending fabric should be greater than 1.0, and the tightness of fiber is less than 1.0.Shrink process must fully make the fibre compact degree bring up to (as following mensuration) more than 1.0, so that obtain wear-resistant fabric of the present invention.

High-modulus staple fibre and low modulus staple fibre are to have the textile fabric that is fit to wear the line density that clothes use, that is line density is preferably less than 5 dtexs/fiber less than 10 dtexs/fiber, and the fiber of about 1～3 dtex of line density/fiber is better.Crimped fibre is particularly useful to the aesthetic property and the processability of fabric.Fabric is made by separating staple fibre, that is staple fibre not fusion or not bonding each other.

The method for preparing fabric comprises the steps: to become fabric greater than the warp thread of the staple fibre of 200g/dtex and 30～92% modulus less than the staple fibre of 100g/dtex is woven by containing at least 15% modulus; Handle this fabric and make it to meet the requirements of fabric tightness and fibre compact degree.

It is believed that the fabric of the present invention that is made by high-modulus and low modulus fiber blended yarn has the mechanism of beyond thought high-wearing feature, be since in fabric high modulus fibre by the many places tensioning.When fabric abrasion, the fiber of fracture (comprising high modulus fibre) will be not easy to come off from fabric, because they are still blocked on the spot.They do not come off from fabric, and keep in the pile mode, and this helps to prevent that fabric from further wearing and tearing.This just forms the cushion of rigidity high modulus fibre broken end between the fiber of fabric abrasion and disconnected fiber.Because high modulus fibre is difficult to wearing and tearing, the sort buffer layer just greatly reduces further damage.If high modulus fibre is not blocked on the spot, fabric abrasion just may make broken fiber come off from fabric, has no longer protected remaining fabric.

To help to understand above-mentioned performance mechanism with reference to accompanying drawing.Accompanying drawing has schematically been described two views of fabric of the present invention.Among Figure 1A, fabric 2 is plain fabrics of a kind of warp thread 3 and weft yarn 4.Circle position 5 expression fabrics are by the position of heavy wear.Rough region 6 expression is by the fiber that is blocked on the spot in the fabric formed hairbrush shape pile that breaks end.Figure 1B is the profile of Figure 1A along the 1A-1A line, and expression warp thread 3 is continuous, and pile 7 expression fiber broken ends are comprising the broken end of rigidity high modulus fibre.

Fig. 2 A has schematically described the grey cloth 8 identical with basis weights with the structure of Figure 1A fabric, but circle abrading section 9 has demonstrated difference.Seldom there is the fiber broken end that comprises high modulus fibre to be blocked on the spot.On the contrary, shown in Fig. 2 B, broken fiber comes off from fabric in the abrading section fabric, causes fabric by wear down.Fig. 2 B is the profile of Fig. 2 A along the 2A-2A line.Continue wearing and tearing with very fast worn out fabric.

Owing to there is the hairbrush shape pile of fiber broken end, fabric of the present invention after being worn than being worn before, obviously being difficult for through air.This and other fabrics (for example grey cloth makes fabric of the present invention thus) difference of same structure and basis weights with it, the latter is ventilative in the back that is worn to descend less or becomes easier to be ventilative.During the fibre compact degree of narration was measured hereinafter, fabric was used as the tolerance of fibre compact aggregation extent in the fabric before and after the wearing and tearing to the gas permeability of air.

Fiber can adopt multiple different spinning method spun yarn, comprises ring spinning, air flow jetting spinning and friction-type spinning, but is not limited only to these methods.

An example of used high modulus fibre is PPTA (PPD-T) staple fibre among the present invention.This fiber can be by United States Patent (USP) 3,767,756 described preparations, and available.

Also can use other modulus organic short fiber of 200g/dtex at least, comprise following some fibre, but be not limited to these:

As United States Patent (USP) 4,075, in 172 disclosed by terephthalic acid (TPA) with comprise 3,4 '-co-condensation polymer high modulus fibre that two amine blends of benzidine ether and p-phenylenediamine (PPD) form.

As United States Patent (USP) 4,413, disclosed High molecular weight polyethylene high modulus fibre in 110 and 4,430,383, it forms gelatinous fibre by solvent spinning, and then stretching makes.

As United States Patent (USP) 4,603, the disclosed degree of polymerization is at least 1500 polyvinyl alcohol superhigh intensity, high modulus fibre in 083, and it is by the dry-wet spinning manufactured.

As United States Patent (USP) 4,161, disclosed high modulus fibre in 470,4,118,372 and 4,183,895 by polyester that can form anisotropic melt or polyester copolymer spinning, spinning is after heat treatment.One example of this polymer is the P-hydroxybenzoic acid of equimolar amounts and the copolyester of 6-hydroxyl-2-naphthoic acid.

Term used herein " organic short fiber " is meant the polymer short fiber that contains carbon and hydrogen, and it also can contain other elements, for example oxygen and nitrogen.

One example of the low modulus fiber that the present invention is used is a cotton, and it can shrink when mercerising processing or flame treatment.Cellulose fibres that other are natural and synthetic, for example flax and artificial silk also are suitable for, but require some change to shrink when handling, and this can understand fully to this area professional.Can use wool fibre.Many synthetic low modulus fibers, for example nylon 66 and nylon 6 fiber, polyethylene terephthalate and other polyester fibers, polyacrylonitrile and other acrylic fibers, polybenzimidazoles and poly (MPD-I) fiber also are suitable for some yarn texture and fabric treating (for example autoclave contraction).As United States Patent (USP) 2,169, disclosed low modulus vinal also can adopt in 250.

It is industrial to COTTON FABRIC and the frequent processing method of using of other fabrics that machinery preshrunk is handled, and normally in order to make the residual shrinkage factor minimum of fabric, this method can be used fabric of the present invention.This method has narration in various lists of references, for example " Textiles:Fiber to Fabric ", Dr.Bernard P.Corbman, 183～184 pages (McGraw-Hill Book Company, New York, NY, 1975).In mechanical preshrunk treatment process, fabric drenches with pure water and live (open) steam, clamps along selvedge to stretch, be placed in securely on the rug under the control tension state, rug is relaxed to the degree of requirement then, forces fabric and then evenly to shrink, and when after this dry this fabric is passed through heated roller.When this method was used in cotton-containing fabrics of the present invention, normally final step was handled in mechanical preshrunk, followed after flame treatment or mercerising processing.

In preparation fabric process of the present invention, can use durable amorphous resin to fabric.Many other common fabric treating technologies also can be used this fabric.The additive of admixture in fabric is preferably in 0～5%(weight of fabric weight) in the scope.

Test method and test

Be used to the preparation of the fabric testing and test

For grey cloth and finished product fabric being comprised the various tests of basis weights and structure (relation of the corresponding thread count of warp thread), at all cloth testings with before measuring, all to try waiting or fabric to be measured earlier through 5 drying and watering cycles.Each drying and watering cycle comprises fabric in the normal domestic use washing machine, be that 12 sodium hydrate aqueous solution is in 57 ℃ (135) washing down with pH, stirred 14 minutes, subsequently at 37 ℃ of (100) drip washing fabrics, dry in common cylindrical drier after each washing, final 71 ℃ of (maximum) baking temperatures (160), need 30 minutes approximately drying time usually, makes it to reach maximum degree of drying., before test, be careful and avoid being polluted, for example contact external material through the sample of 5 drying and watering cycles.Be the variation of avoiding fabric construction to produce in time, fabric sample is tested and measured and should carry out immediately, that is after through 5 drying and watering cycles, carry out in several days.

Tie up the test of auspicious pik wear test value

Adopt the auspicious pik wear test of dimension of improved procedure herein, this test is a kind of damage test of refacing that is used to test fabric (wherein at least some are highly abrasion-resistants).In simple terms, a kind of experimental rig is adopted in this test, wherein has the cylinder of a semicircle to swing along 76 millimeters arc, earlier to a direction, subsequently round about.Have two flat bars to be installed on the cylinder surface, both being parallel to each other also is parallel to the turning cylinder of cylinder.Emery cloth is sandwiched on the cylinder surface, covers on flat bars.This installs available clip fabric sample is fixed on the fixed position that is positioned at the emery cloth top, contacts with emery cloth under predetermined tension force.Cylinder is back rotation under fabric sample, apply corrasion with the emery cloth part that is installed in above the flat bars, (per twice emery cloth that nuzzles up calculated a circulation to make fabric and emery cloth friction, be that each direction is wiped once), till fabric damaged, this moment, the number of times of cycle of rotation was recorded as the wear test value.

A last paragragh is the simple description of this test, the actual tests step is by at Research Disclosure, October, 1988, PublicationItem NO.29405, " Modified Wyzenbeek Abrasion Test ", the step of describing among the PP.707-9 is carried out, but test will prepare through 5 drying and watering cycles in a manner described with fabric sample.Fabric sample is loaded onto the cycle-index of back when finding to occur aperture at its an interlacing point place because of a warp thread and breakage of weft, and the record conduct reaches the cycle-index of damage.In addition, stretched when sample is denuded, machine be stopped, adjustment of tonicity avoids tension arm to descend more than 2 centimetres from the original level location.With the average cycle index that reaches damage that the method records, be used to measure than the auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE of dimension.

Than the auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE of dimension

After trying to achieve the average cycle index that reaches damage by aforementioned calculation, with this number divided by basis weights (with g/m ²Expression), this quotient is defined as " than the auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE of dimension ".When fabric has dissymmetrical structure, each face is calculated separately.

The test of fabric tightness

The yarn degree that is stuck that is blocked is defined as " fabric tightness " in woven fabric, its test and calculating are undertaken by following document is described: Research Disclosure, October, 1988, Publication Item No.29498, " Calculation of Fabric Tightness Factor ", pp.833-6(this paper leaves out " Factor " speech).During the test fabric tightness, should notice that the fibre density that is used for calculating should be the fibre density of fabric after any processing of fabric process and after 5 drying and watering cycles, for example for the cotton fiber in the flame-retardant textile, the fibre density value that adopts not only should be after the process flame treatment, and will be after through 5 drying and watering cycles.The line density of yarn (representing with dtex or yarn count) can followingly be measured: extract yarn out from washed fabric, not taking place to curl with hand tensioning yarn records length of yarn, then this length fiber is weighed, and measures proximal line density; Yarn is loaded on 0.11g/dtex, records the length under this load.The length that employing records thus and the weight of equal length yarn calculate the line density that is used for fabric tightness formula.

The test of fibre compact degree

Fibre compact is assembled and is difficult for during fibrous fracture the degree that quilt deviate from and is defined as " fibre compact degree ", the following test in woven fabric.

The auspicious pik abrasion tester of dimension of utilization narration in " tieing up the test of auspicious pik wear test value " this joint, each fabric sample is made wear test along the weft direction friction, but judge the standard of the cycle-index that reaches damage, a kind of be when on the fabric sample owing to when hole appears in the warp thread at interlacing point place and breakage of weft, another kind is to observe because of abundant warp break has exposed in 0.32 centimetre of (0.125 inch) weft yarn, and no matter the sort of the cycle-index that occurs earlier with regard to decidable this moment be the cycle-index that reaches damage.When the test fibre compact was spent, the fabric sample of dissymmetrical structure was always made wear test to the fabric side that maximum warp float (the weft yarn radical that warp thread strides across between interlacing point) is arranged.Fabric side with maximum warp float is defined as " long surface ", and another side is called " short surface ".At first each fabric is made a preliminary test, determine that thread bare fabric reaches damage and needs how many abrasion cycles.Each fabric is made three samples, and wearing and tearing reach damage, and the average that damages cycle-index with reaching of these three samples is worn to reach as this fabric and damages required abrasion cycles number of times.

Be test fibre compact degree, with fabric sample may wear to this fabric be worn reached 50% o'clock that damages required abrasion cycles number of times till.Then these fabric sample of wearing and tearing are cleaned, the centre of eroded area is lain in a horizontal plane in 28 seconds on one vertical delivering aerated water stream, 1.3 centimetres of delivering aerated water stream diameters, 10 liters/minute of flow velocitys, 6 ℃ of temperature change to reverse side every 7 seconds from the front.Be equipped with a wire sieve net in the hose end, water by the time be inflated.Sample is hung vertically in dry half an hour in 90 ℃ of baking ovens.Because during fabric abrasion be tensioning, needing after taking-up from baking oven relaxes made fabric stability at least in 24 hours.

Then wearing and tearing the centre in heavy zone (when cylinder during on its stroke summit, mid point between the aluminium bar of supporting fabrics, and the point equidistant) with the sample both sides and eroded area beyond the sample two ends, again ratify by ASTM D737-5(1980) step described in " standard test method of textile fabric gas permeability ", measure gas permeability.Can adopt round orifice plate is housed, 2.86 centimetres in aperture (1.13 inches), fabric exposed area 6.45cm ²(1 inch ²) high-pressure unit.On increased pressure board, use one deck mat, reduce gas leakage by fabric side.Under 12.7mm water column (0.5 inches of water(in H) pressure, see through fabric face same sample is tested.Because only need relative value, do not need the actual permeability value, so the record data of the middle pasta of vertical liquid level manometer (monometer) can not be converted into the gas permeability value in the high-pressure unit.Calculate the pasta mean value that reaches in the vertical liquid level manometer in addition the time when the test wear zone, pasta value (, same sample being tested) the ratio between two value that reaches during the centre in heavy zone with test wear all with identical nozzle.For fear of very uneven sample, if the difference of twice test value that position beyond the eroded area is done surpass these two values average 40%, then discarded this sample.The mean value of three samples is defined as permeability coefficient.

The product of permeability coefficient and warp float number calculates two-decimal divided by 3.5, this is defined as " fibre compact degree ".For warp float length is fabric below 4 or 4, just can draw significant value.The weft yarn number that warp thread strides across between interlacing point provides as follows to various common fabric styles:

The maximum warp float number of style

Plain cloth 1

3 * 1 twills 3

Satin weave 3

The maximum warp float number of style

2 * 1 twills 2

5 combine 4 * 1 warp sateens 4

An example of calculating as the fibre compact degree is made the plain cloth grey cloth of 100% cotton fine ring spinning to make the used practically identical step of grey cloth in the example 4 hereinafter, but is used the sliver of 100% pima cotton.The line density of two strands of ring spun yarns is 583dtex(nominal 20/2 yarn count), the structure of 100% cotton grey cloth is 19 picks per centimeter of 20 warp thread/cm x, basis weights 278g/m ²When with the test of above-mentioned fibre compact degree method of testing, after average 50 abrasion cycles, fabric is worn and reaches damage in preliminary test for three fabric sample.Each is worn other three fabric sample to 25 circulations (reach damage average cycle index 50%), as above-mentioned drip washing, drying.Then to the fabric sample of each 25 cycle-index of having worn and torn, wearing and tearing beyond the centre in heavy zone and the eroded area two ends (side a and b in the following table) of sample measure gas permeability.It is as follows to measure permeability coefficient gained data:

Sample pasta rising (cm) pasta rising ratio

Number not worn area/worn area of eroded area (cm)

A end B holds the mean eroded area level with both hands

1 18.8 17.8 18.3 19.05 18.3/19.05＝0.96

2 20.6 21.6 21.1 21.6 21.1/21.6＝0.98

3 20.3 20.6 20.45 20.1 20.45/20.1＝1.02

Permeability coefficient=average=0.99

Therefore, to this 100% cotton plain cloth, its fibre compact degree is: permeability coefficient * warp float number/3.5=0.99 * 1/3.5=0.28.

In fabric of the present invention, the fibre compact degree is 1.01 or surpasses 1.01.

For the preferably high-durability fabric of the present invention, have been found that also the auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE of dimension itself is whether a high modulus fibre of measuring in the given fabric is locked in the sensitive parameter in the given fabric on the spot.This can be determined by the numerical value of measuring than the auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE of dimension.If the ratio of fabric is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE and is at least 5 circulation/g/m ², be preferably 10 circulation/g/m ²The time, this given fabric is a preferred fabric of the present invention.

As a discrete standard, if given fabric has the auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE of the dimension value of one side at least, with comparing greatly at least by 25% with the auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE of the dimension on the one side by the contrast grey cloth of the identical fabric Unit Weight of 100% high modulus fibre system and structure, then this given fabric is a preferred fabric of the present invention.The control fabric of 100% high modulus fibre system should be by with the yarn that is made into given fabric have that the yarn of same line density and structure makes (for example, if given fabric is the core-skin yarn, then the yarn of control fabric also should be the core-skin yarn), the control fabric of 100% high modulus fibre also should have practically identical structure and basis weights with given fabric simultaneously.So-called " practically identical structure " is meant that the style of fabric is identical, for example plain cloth; The thread count of fabric at least about given pck count 20% within; Unit are through the weft yarn sum at least about given fabric through the weft yarn sum 10% within.

So-called " practically identical basis weights " be meant control fabric basis weights should at least about the basis weights of given fabric 25% within.When contrast is being benchmark when carrying out than the auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE of dimension, this just can allow the control fabric of given fabric and 100% high modulus fibre is done well to contrast.

If given fabric contains the weight of additive and additives known, then the contrast grey cloth of 100% high modulus fibre should so be made, make it have the weight that deducts additive with the practically identical basis weights of given fabric, yarn is in fact identical with given fabric except that additive with fabric construction.But when divided by basis weights fabric being compared, use the Unit Weight of the given fabric that comprises additive to calculate, even this can cause lower value (circulation/g/m to given fabric according to the auspicious pik wear test value of dimension ²).

If given fabric contains additive, but do not know the weight of additive, having the contrast grey cloth with 100% high modulus fibre of practically identical structure of given fabric (comprising additive) and Unit Weight, is that the high modulus fibre yarn of the Unit Weight that is enough to provide identical with given fabric by thread density is made.

Example

Example 1

Prepare a kind of high-durability fabric of the present invention, method is: adopt fire-retardant sweller to handle the weight by 50%() PPTA (PPD-T) staple fibre and 50%(weight) plain cloth that on the Jet Stream frame, is made into of the tight blended yarn of bi-component of pima cotton.

The PPD-T fiber that is used to spin is commercially available crimped fibre, and modulus is about 515g/dtex, and line density is 1.65dtex(1.5dpf), shearing length is the 3.8cm(1.5 inch) (with E.I.Du Pont Company " Kevlar-29 " the aramid fibre supply of material).

By 50%(weight) PPD-T fiber and 50%(weight) fibre length is 7/16 inch of 3.65cm(1) and pima cotton, once by the Jet Stream frame spin the scutching cotton silver mixing, frame is for example at United States Patent (USP) 4,497, people such as 167(Nakahara) (the model 801 of diagram and narration in, Model No.8100065Murata frame, make in November, 1981, by the Murata company product of Tokyo).The operating condition that machine is set is listed in table 2.The line density of this silver mixing is the 2.5g/m(35 grain/yard).Spin to such an extent that the line density of yarn is about 300dtex(nominal 20/1 yarn count thus).Spun yarn is changeed/cm) (9tpi(commentaries on classics/inch) by " S " gang twisting 3.5tpc(then), making line density is 600dtex(nominal 20/2 yarn count; 546 dawn) double strand yarn.

Above-mentioned double strand yarn is made into plain cloth on pick loom.The structure of calicut is 19 warp thread/cm * 19 weft yarn/cm(49 root warp thread/inch * 49 picks per inch), basis weights is 25.7g/m ²(7.6 oz/yd ²), the fabric tightness is 1.08, the fibre compact degree is 0.34.It is 1.5 circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE ²

Prepare a certain amount of calicut as stated above, take off from loom,, dye at boiling point 80～85 ℃ of washings, dyed fabric uses 2 again: the tetrakis hydroxymethyl phosphonium chloride 1(mole) (THPC): (a kind of fire retardant is by Albright ﹠amp for the condensation product of urea; Wilson Inc., P.O.Box26229, Richmond, Va is with " Proban CC " supply) handle, bake subsequently solid, with ammonia by using THPC: wet fabric (the containing 10～20%(weight approximately) water that urea condensate is handled), then with fabric drip washing, drying.In the process of this processing fabric, when fabric is pulled by retardant solution, not tensioning of weft direction, and warp thread direction is tensioning.When fabric contacts with solution, the swelling greatly that becomes of the cotton fiber in the fabric.When carrying out above-mentioned processing, reach in the cotton yarn weight in the 50%PPD-T/50% COTTON FABRIC THPC of absorption: the urea condensate amount is a 20%(weight).Handle in the fabric of back and contain 45%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 55%(weight) the retardant cotton fiber.

The fabric that flame treatment is crossed carries out the mechanical preshrunk processing of general industryization then.

The fabric construction of finished product fabric (through flame treatment, mechanical preshrunk is handled) is 20 picks per centimeter of 20 warp thread/cm x (50 warp thread/inch * 51 picks per inch), Unit Weight 298g/m ²(8.8 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.18, fibre compact degree 6.67 is 27.6 circulation/g/m than the auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE of dimension ²Even the finished product fabric through the washing once after, it still has than the sensation of soft hand feeling, dry and comfortable happiness and good recovery from creasing, near all-cotton fabric.

The numerical value of the fabric tightness of the finished product fabric of the finished product fabric of example 1 (fabric of the present invention) and following other examples, fibre compact degree, the auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE of ratio dimension is listed in table 1.

With with example 1 in the calicut fabric with the 100%PPD-T fiber plain cloth grey cloth that quadrat method makes, have identical basis weights and structure, it only is 4.6 circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE ²Feel is coarse even behind cyclic washing also be firmly.Almost can not reply behind fabric pincher, this is the typical behavior of the fabric made by high modulus fibre like this.

Example 2

Prepare a kind of high durable fabric of the present invention, method is the TWILL CLOTH that the ring spinning by the intimately admixing of PPD-T staple fibre, nylon staple peacekeeping cotton is made into to be carried out double mercerized finish handle.

Adopt the common cotton spinning system to prepare a kind of scutching cotton silver mixing and be machined to 3.6tpc " Z " twisted yarn (9.2tpi) with ring spinning.Contain in this scutching cotton silver mixing: 25%(weight) dye blue PPD-T fiber, line density 1.65dtex(1.5dpf), shearing length 3.8cm(1.5 inch); 20%(weight) polyhexamethylene adipamide (nylon 66) fiber, line density 2.77dtex(2.5dpf), shearing length 3.8cm(1.5 inch) (E.I.Du Pont Company is with the supply of material of nylon T-420 fiber); 55%(weight) combed cotton, 3/16 inch of fibre length 3cm(1).The yarn that so makes is 972dtex(nominal 6/1 yarn count; 883 dawn) multistrand yarn.

The multistrand yarn that so makes is used as the warp thread in 3 * 1 dextrad twill structures on the pick loom, with with warp thread in used identical 30%(weight) nylon 66 fiber and 70%(weight) the ring ingot multistrand yarn that makes of combed cotton is weft yarn, this weft yarn has the identical twist and line density with warp thread.This grey twill structure is 19 picks per centimeter of 25 warp thread/cm x (63 warp thread/inch * 48 picks per inch), Unit Weight 498g/m ²(14.7 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.10, fibre compact degree 0.75.The fiber content of fabric is a 15%(weight) the PPD-T staple fibre, 24%(weight) nylon staple peacekeeping 61%(weight) cotton fiber.It is 1.2 circulation/g/m that ratio on its long warp float face (LF) is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value ², be abbreviated as 1.2LF circulation/g/m ², and the ratio on short warp float face (SF) to tie up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value be 1.3 circulation/g/m ², be abbreviated as 1.3SF circulation/g/m ²

Prepare a certain amount of grey twill as mentioned above, (without washing) width 131cm(51.75 inch when loom takes off).This grey cloth of washing in hot water, dry under low-tension on the stenter.Be the 122cm(48 inch at width then) lax down, handled about 30 seconds with carrying out mercerising under 82 ℃ of 24% sodium hydroxide solutions (180), rinsing in the water, neutralization, dry on hot cylinder.It is the 114cm(45 inch that sample keeps width) carry out mercerising again and handle.Dye blueness then continuously, 82-83 ℃ (180-182 °F) is dry down on hot cylinder.Carrying out mechanical preshrunk after the dyeing handles.The Unit Weight of finished product fabric (handle through double mercerized finish, mechanical preshrunk is handled) is 467g/m ²(13.8 oz/yd ²).Its structure is 18 picks per centimeter of 25 warp thread/cm x (63 warp thread/inch * 45 picks per inch), fabric tightness 1.10, fibre compact degree 1.34.Its fiber content is a 15%(weight) the PPD-T staple fibre, 24%(weight) nylon staple peacekeeping 61%(weight) cotton fiber.Corresponding percentage composition is a 25%(weight in warp thread), 20%(weight) and 55%(weight).It is 4.4LF and 4.4SF circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value ²The finished product fabric has soft hand feeling.

Example 3

Preparing a kind of high durable fabric of the present invention, is by 51%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 49%(weight) poly (MPD-I) the staple fibre strand that twice makes by machine on the Jet Stream spinning machine be made into through the heat treated plain cloth of autoclave.

The PPD-T fiber that is used for the stranding line is and example 1 used identical PPD-T fiber.The MPD-I fiber that is used for the stranding line is line density 1.65dtex(1.5dpf), shearing length 3.8cm(1.5 inch) commercially available crystalline fibers (E.I.Du Pont Company with " Nomex " T-450 aramid fibre supply of material the).

With Jet Stream spinning machine used in the example 1, the PPD-T fiber is formed earlier the 2.5g/m(35 grain/yard) sliver, and spun yarn.The line density of the yarn that is spun into is 155dtex(nominal 38 yarn counts).For the first time by spin the PPD-T yarn be used as heart yearn in the strand, with MPD-I staple fibre 2.5g/m(35 grain/yard) sliver once more by the Jet Stream spinning machine, form multi cord.This machine first and second times by the time condition set list in table 2.So the multi cord that forms is the core-skin yarn, has the looping structure, and wherein some PPD-T fibers are by the loose warp looping of PPD-T fiber in the PPD-T heart yearn, and some MPD-I fibers in the sheath layer also looping the PPD-T heart yearn.Multi cord is then by " S " doubling twisting 3tpc(7.5tpi) make double strand yarn, line density 605dtex(nominal 20/2 yarn count; 550 dawn).

So the twine that forms is made into plain cloth on pick loom.The structure of this calicut is 20 picks per centimeter of 21 warp thread/cm x (53 warp thread/inch * 52 picks per inch), Unit Weight 277g/m ²(8.2 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.13, fibre compact degree 0.56.It is 4.2 circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE ²

Take off back (without washing) as the above-mentioned calicut that makes from loom, in the aqueous solution of 1% long-chain alcohol sulfuric acid ester surfactant and 1% tetrasodium pyrophosphate, washed 20 minutes down in 99 ℃ (210 °F), descend rinsing 20 minutes at 0.5% aqueous acetic acid in 71 ℃ (160 °F) again, cold calendering, rolling is vertically put into autoclave on a pipe.Autoclave vacuumizes, and fabric is exposed in 122 ℃ of (252) steam 20 minutes for twice, and the centre has intermittently, vacuumizes in last 5 minutes to handle.The structure of finished product fabric (autoclave was handled) is 22 picks per centimeter of 20 warp thread/cm x (51 warp thread/inch * 55 picks per inch), Unit Weight 264g/m ²(7.8 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.13, fibre compact degree 1.25.It is 6.3 circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE ²This fabric fibre content is 51%/49%PPD-T/MPD-I fiber, and smooth, pliable and tough, soft feel is arranged, and good crease recovery is arranged.The fiber content of finished product fabric is identical with the greige goods fabric fiber content.

The calicut of the 100%PPD-T fiber that makes with the method identical with example 3 calicuts has identical Unit Weight and structure, but it only is 2.3 circulation/g/m than the auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE of dimension ²It has hard and coarse feel, and is much more coarse than the finished product fabric of example 3, almost can not reply behind the wrinkle.

Example 4

Similar example 1 is handled by 50%(weight with fire-retardant swelling agent) PPD-T staple fibre and 50%(weight) the tight blended yarn of bi-component of pima cotton spinning and the plain cloth that is made into, but replace the yarn of Jet Stream spinning mechanism with ring spinning.

By 50%(weight) with example 1 in used identical PPD-T fiber and 50%(weight) fibre length is 7/16 inch of 3.65cm(1) and pima cotton, adopt the common cotton spinning system to be prepared into the scutching cotton silver mixing, and be machined to ring spindle yarn have 7.1tpc(18tpi) " Z " twisted yarn.Yarn quilt " S " doubling twisting 4.3tpc(11tpi that so makes) making line density is 614dtex(nominal 20/2 yarn count; 558 dawn) double strand yarn.

This double strand yarn is made into plain cloth on pick loom.The structure of calicut fabric is 21 picks per centimeter of 19 warp thread/cm x (49 warp thread/inch * 53 picks per inch), Unit Weight 261g/m ²(7.7 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.10, fibre compact degree 0.34.It is 2.2 circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE ²

As described in above-mentioned example 1, be made into a certain amount of calicut, to take off (without washing) from loom and wash, dyeing is handled with fire-retardant swelling agent, and is solid with the ammonia roasting, rinsing, drying is carried out the mechanical preshrunk of general industryization and is handled.When carrying out this processing, make the THPC of absorption: the amount of urea condensate is the 20%(weight of the cotton fine weight in the 50%PPD-T/50% COTTON FABRIC).After this handled, the fiber content of this fabric was a 45%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 55%(weight) through the cotton fiber of flame treatment.

The structure of finished product fabric (through flame treatment, mechanical preshrunk is handled) is 21 picks per centimeter of 20 warp thread/cm x (50 warp thread/inch * 53 picks per inch), Unit Weight 301g/m ²(8.9 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.13, fibre compact degree 2.90.It is 21.4 circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE ²The fabric of the present invention of the aesthetic property of finished product fabric and example 1 is quite similar.

The calicut of the 100%PPD-T fiber that makes as the identical method of the calicut of example 4 has identical Unit Weight and structure, but it only is 3.2 circulation/g/m than the auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE of dimension ², have hard and coarse feel.

Example 5

Similar with example 4, handle the plain cloth that is made into by ring spinning with fire-retardant swelling agent, but yarn is by 25%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 75%(weight) the tight silver mixing spinning of bi-component of pima cotton forms.

Repeat the step of example 4, but use weight by 25%() identical PPD-T staple fibre and 75%(weight) the scutching cotton silver mixing that makes of identical pima cotton fibre makes the bifilar ring spinning with identical " Z " twisting and " S " doubling twisting amount.The line density of this yarn is 649dtex(nominal 18/2 yarn count; 590 dawn).

This double strand yarn is made into plain cloth on pick loom.The structure of this calicut is 18.5 picks per centimeter of 19 warp thread/cm x (49 warp thread/inch * 47 picks per inch), Unit Weight 275g/m ²(8.1 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.06, fibre compact degree 0.29.It is 1.05 circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE ²

Then as example 4 preparation finished product fabrics (through flame treatment, mechanical preshrunk is handled).During processing, make the THPC of absorption: the amount of urea condensate is the 20%(weight of the cotton fine weight in the 25%PPD-T/75% COTTON FABRIC).The fiber content of this fabric is a 22%(weight after handling) PPD-T staple fibre and 78%(weight) cotton fiber crossed of flame treatment.The structure of finished product fabric is 18.5 picks per centimeter of 20 warp thread/cm x (51 warp thread/inch * 47 picks per inch), and Unit Weight is 301g/m ²(8.9 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.13, fibre compact degree 1.25.It is 5.3 circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE ²The finished product fabric has the very similar fabric aesthetic property of the all-cotton fabric through flame treatment with similar structures and Unit Weight.

Example 6

Similar example 1 is handled the plain cloth that yarn was made into that is spun by the Jet Stream spinning machine with fire-retardant swelling agent, but this yarn is by 58%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 42%(weight) strand that makes by machine for twice of pima cotton.

Earlier press method identical described in the example 3, make a kind of 2.5g/m(35 grain/yard of PPD-T fiber) sliver, and on the Jet Stream spinning machine spinning formation 155dtex(38 yarn count) the 100%PPD-T yarn.With for the first time making heart yarn, form strand by the Jet Stream spinning machine once more then, and with the 3.9g/m(55 grain/yard by the PPD-T yarn that makes) fibre length be 7/16 inch of 3.65cm(1) the pima cotton sliver form multistrand yarn.The condition of setting during by machine for first and second times is all listed in table 2.The line density of the multi cord that so makes is 245dtex, is a kind of core-skin yarn, has the looping structure, and wherein the some fibre of PPD-T heart yarn is twined by other PPD-T fibers, also twines the PPD-T heart yarn at some cotton fibers of sheath portion.This multistrand yarn is made 3.0tpc(7.5tpi by plying then) " S " twisting double strand yarn, its line density is 530dtex(nominal 22/2 yarn count; 482 dawn).

This double strand yarn is made into plain cloth on pick loom.The structure of calicut is 19 picks per centimeter of 20 warp thread/cm x (52 warp thread/inch * 49 picks per inch), Unit Weight 234g/m ²(6.9 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.07, fibre compact degree coefficient 0.33.It is 3.3 circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE ²

As described in above-mentioned example 1, a certain amount of calicut takes off back (without washing) from loom and is washed, and dyes, and handles with fire-retardant swelling agent, and is solid with the ammonia roasting, rinsing, and drying is also carried out the mechanical preshrunk processing of general industryization.When carrying out this processing, make the THPC of absorption: urea condensate is the 20%(weight of the fine weight of 58%PPD-T/42% COTTON FABRIC middle cotton).The fiber content of this fabric is a 53%(weight after this handles) PPD-T staple fibre and 47%(weight) cotton fiber crossed through flame treatment.

The structure of finished product fabric (through flame treatment, mechanical preshrunk is handled) is 19 picks per centimeter of 21 warp thread/cm x (52 warp thread/inch * 48 picks per inch), Unit Weight 247g/m ²(7.3 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.05, fibre compact degree 2.14.It is 8.3 circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE ²

Though this finished product fabric is more coarse slightly than the feel of example 5 fabrics, still has suitable soft hand feeling.Usually, PPD-T fiber percentage composition is high more, and then stiffness is big more, and feel is coarse more, and crease recovery is poor more.

Example 7

Prepare a kind of high durable fabric of the present invention, method is to adopt fire-retardant swelling agent to handle the weight by 50%() PPD-T staple fibre and 50%(weight) TWILL CLOTH that is made into of the weft yarn of the pima cotton thigh yarn warp thread that twice makes by machine on the Jet Stream spinning machine and cotton.

Similar example 6, PPD-T fiber form earlier the 2.5g/m(35 grain/yard) sliver, spinning forms the 153dtex(38 yarn count on the Jet Stream spinning machine) the 100%PPD-T yarn.Make heart yarn with the PPD-T yarn that makes by machine for the first time then and form strand by the Jet Stream spinning machine once more, and with the 2.5g/m(35 grain/yard) fibre length be 7/16 inch of 3.65cm(1) the pima cotton sliver form multistrand yarn, this is a kind of core-skin yarn, has and the similar looping structure of the yarn of example 6.First and second times imposing a condition during by machine all listed in the table 2.This multistrand yarn is made 3.0tpc(7.5tpi by plying then) " S " twisting double strand yarn, its line density is 617dtex(nominal 19/2 yarn count; 561 dawn).

This double strand yarn is used as warp thread on pick loom, be 820dtex(nominal 7/1 yarn count with the line density; The 4.3tpc(11tpi of 100% pima cotton yarn spinning 745 dawn)) multiply " Z " twisting ring spun yarn is made into 3 * 1 TWILL CLOTH as weft yarn.The structure of this grey twill is 20 picks per centimeter of 30 warp thread/cm x (76 warp thread/inch * 50 picks per inch), Unit Weight 400g/m ²(11.8 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.08, fibre compact degree 0.77.The fiber content of fabric is a 28%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 72%(weight) cotton fiber.Its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value and is respectively 3.1LF and 0.9SF circulation/g/m ²

As described in above-mentioned example 1, a certain amount of grey twill takes off back (without washing) from loom and is washed, and drying is handled with fire-retardant swelling agent, and is solid with the ammonia roasting, and rinsing is dryly also carried out general industryization machinery preshrunk processing.When carrying out this processing, make the THPC of absorption: the urea condensate amount is the 20%(weight of the fine weight of 28%PPD-T/72% COTTON FABRIC middle cotton).The fiber content of this fabric is a 23%(weight after treatment) PPD-T staple fibre and 77%(weight) cotton fiber crossed through flame treatment.Corresponding percentage composition is respectively 45%(weight in warp thread) and 55%(weight).

The structure of finished product TWILL CLOTH (through flame treatment, mechanical preshrunk is handled) is 20 picks per centimeter of 29 warp thread/cm x (74 warp thread/inch * 50 picks per inch), Unit Weight 447g/m ²(13.2 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.09, fibre compact degree 2.06.It is respectively 7.8LF and 18.7SF circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE ²

The finished product fabric has fabric pliability, recovery from creasing and the soft hand feeling near all-cotton fabric.

Example 8

Prepare a kind of high durable fabric of the present invention, method is to handle the weight by 50%(with fire-retardant swelling agent) PPD-T staple fibre and 50%(weight) SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH that is made into of pima cotton twice is spun into by machine on the Jet Stream spinning machine thigh yarn warp thread and cotton weft yarn.

Be used for knitting twill a certain amount of double strand yarn in the example 7 and also be used as warp thread and come the tapestry satin pattern fabric, weft yarn is that line density is 567dtex(nominal 20/2 yarn count; 515 dawn) the bifilar 7tpc(18tpi of 100% pima cotton) " Z " twists ring spinning.The fiber content of fabric is a 30%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 70%(weight) cotton fiber.The structure of this SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH grey cloth is 24 picks per centimeter of 35 warp thread/cm x (88 warp thread/inch * 60 picks per inch), Unit Weight 413g/m ²(12.2 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.13, fibre compact degree 0.94.Its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value and is respectively 3.3LF and 0.97SF circulation/g/m ²

Adopt example 7 to make the twill same steps as of finished product then and prepare finished product SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH (through flame treatment, mechanical preshrunk is handled) from corresponding grey cloth.When carrying out this processing, make the THPC of absorption: urea condensate is the 20%(weight of the fine weight of 30%PPD-T/70% COTTON FABRIC middle cotton).The fiber content of this fabric is a 27%(weight after treatment) PPD-T staple fibre and 73%(weight) through the cotton fiber of flame treatment.In warp thread, corresponding percentage composition is respectively 45%(weight) and 55%(weight).The structure of finished product fabric is 24 picks per centimeter of 34 warp thread/cm x (86 warp thread/inch * 60 picks per inch), Unit Weight 437g/m ²(12.9 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.13, fibre compact degree 2.48.Its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value and is respectively 14.5LF and 11.2SF circulation/g/m ²

The finished product fabric has pliability, recovery from creasing and the soft hand feeling near all-cotton fabric.

Example 9

Similar example 7 is handled by 50%(weight with fire-retardant swelling agent) PPD-T staple fibre and 50%(weight) warp thread of cotton and the TWILL CLOTH that the cotton weft yarn is made into, but warp thread is the ring spinning by the tight silver mixing system of bi-component of PPD-T fiber and combed cotton.

By 50%(weight) with example 1 in used identical PPD-T fiber and 50%(weight) fibre length is 3/16 inch of 3cm(1) and combed cotton make the scutching cotton silver mixing, adopt ring throstle to be processed into 4.7tpc(12tpi with the common cotton spinning system) " Z " twisted yarn.The yarn that so makes is 516dtex(nominal 11/1 yarn count; 479 dawn) multistrand yarn.

The multistrand yarn that so makes is used as warp thread, on pick loom with the multiply 3.9tpc(10tpi of 100% carded cotton (average fiber length 2.7cm or 1 1/16 inches)) " Z " twisting ring spinning is made into 3 * 1 TWILL CLOTH as weft yarn, the line density of weft yarn is 837dtex(nominal 7/1 yarn count, 761 dawn).The fiber content of grey twill is a 29%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 71%(weight) cotton fiber.Its structure is 19 picks per centimeter of 33 warp thread/cm x (85 warp thread/inch * 49 picks per inch), Unit Weight 404g/m ²(11.9 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.11, fibre compact degree 0.77.Its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value and is respectively 0.8LF and 0.7SF circulation/g/m ²

Adopt then with example 7 in make the identical step of finished product TWILL CLOTH from corresponding grey cloth and prepare finished product TWILL CLOTH (through flame treatment, mechanical preshrunk processing).When handling, make the THPC of absorption: urea condensate is the 20%(weight of 29%PPD-T/71% COTTON FABRIC middle cotton fibre weight).The fiber content of this fabric is a 25%(weight after treatment) PPD-T staple fibre and 75%(weight) through the cotton fiber of flame treatment.Corresponding percentage composition is a 45%(weight in warp thread) and 55%(weight).The structure of finished product fabric is 20 picks per centimeter of 33 warp thread/cm x (83 warp thread/inch * 50 picks per inch), Unit Weight 437g/m ²(12.9 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.11, fibre compact degree 1.31.It is respectively 5.1LF and 8.5SF circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value ²

At the cotton finished product fabric of 25%PPD-T/75% after washing once, fabric have dry and comfortable happiness all-cotton fabric texture and near flexibility, recovery from creasing and the pliability of all-cotton fabric.

Example 10

Prepare a kind of height of the present invention fabric that wearing well, method is with by 40%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 60%(weight) the core-skin yarn made on the friction frame of combed cotton is made into 3 * 1 TWILL CLOTH, elder generation is in the deionized water for stirring of heat, dry in hot-air subsequently, so repeatedly circulation.

3.2g/m(45 grain/yard with used identical PPD-T fiber in the example 1) sliver, between the rotary drum of friction frame, speed feed with 0.8 meter/minute of axial direction, the friction frame is DREF 3 Spinning Machine, Model No.3E3000604(is by Fehrer Machine CO., Linz, Austria makes, nineteen eighty-three produces).The 2.5g/m(35 grain/yard of combed cotton 3/16 inch of fibre length 3cm(1)) sliver 5 velamens are simultaneously perpendicular to the speed of PPD-T sliver direction with 0.315 meter/minute, two with the clamp area of the spinning cylinder of 2000 rev/mins of rotations between charging.Spin by 40%(weight with 110 meters/minute speed) PPD-T heart yarn and 60%(weight) 649dtex(nominal 9/1 yarn count formed of combed cotton sheath layer; 590 dawn) core-skin yarn.So as warp thread, line density is a 836dtex(7.0/1 nominal yarn count to the yarn that forms on pick loom; 760 dawn) 3.9tpc(10tpi that 100% combed cotton is spun into) multiply twisting ring spun yarn is made into the fabric of 3 * 1 twill structures as weft yarn.The fiber content of this grey cloth is a 23%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 77%(weight) cotton fiber.Fabric construction is 20 picks per centimeter of 30 warp thread/cm x (76 warp thread/inch * 50 picks per inch), Unit Weight 416g/m ²(12.3 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.09, fibre compact degree 0.86.Its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value and is respectively 3.0LF and 1.7SF circulation/g/m ²

With a certain amount of grey twill in the normal domestic use washing machine in 60 ℃ of deionized water for stirring, the back is dry in the normal domestic use drying machine, repeatedly circulation hockets.Through the finished product fabric in deionized water for stirring and dry 25 circulations, its fabric construction is 20 picks per centimeter of 30 warp thread/cm x (75 warp thread/inch * 51 picks per inch), Unit Weight 420g/m ²(12.4 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.10, fibre compact degree 1.37.It is respectively 8.2LF and 2.0SF circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value ²The finished product fabric has the outward appearance of all-cotton fabric, because be difficult to aware by the PPD-T fiber of looping; And the feel and the recovery from creasing of similar all-cotton fabric arranged.The fiber content of finished product fabric is identical with the fiber content of grey cloth.

Example 11

Similar example 2 carries out double mercerized finish to the TWILL CLOTH that is made into by ring spinning and handles, but by 35%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 65%(weight) the tight silver mixing of bi-component of cotton fiber makes warp thread, and the cotton yarn is as weft yarn.

Preparation 35%(weight) dye blue PPD-T fiber and 65%(weight in the example 2) the scutching cotton silver mixing of the combed cotton of example 2, and be spun into 3.8tpc(9.7tpi with ring throstle with the common cotton spinning system) " Z " twisted yarn.The yarn that so makes is 971dtex(nominal 6/1 yarn count; 883 dawn) multistrand yarn.

Multistrand yarn with formation like this is made warp thread, is made into the fabric of 3 * 1 dextrad twill structures on pick loom with 100% combed cotton multiply ring spun yarn weft yarn with same twist and line density.The structure of this grey twill is 18 picks per centimeter of 22 warp thread/cm x (62 warp thread/inch * 50 picks per inch), Unit Weight 521g/m ²(15.4 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.09, fibre compact degree 0.77.The fiber content of fabric is a 20%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 80%(weight) cotton fiber.Its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value and is respectively 1.3LF and 1.9SF circulation/g/m ²

Take off back (without washing) as the above-mentioned a certain amount of grey twill that makes from loom, its width is the 132cm(52 inch).In hot water washing and under low-tension on the stenter dry this grey cloth, width becomes the 124cm(49 inch).Then at width 122cm(48 inch) time lax, carry out mercerising with 24% sodium hydroxide solution in 82 ℃ (180 °F) and handled about 30 seconds, rinsing in water, neutralization, dry on hot cylinder.Carrying out mechanical preshrunk then handles.Keeping width 114cm(45 inch at sample) time repeats mercerising and handles.Dye blueness then in successive range, 82-83 ℃ (180-182 °F) is dry down on hot cylinder.Carrying out mechanical preshrunk after the dyeing again handles.This through the double mercerized finish processing, the Unit Weight of the fabric that mechanical preshrunk is handled is 480g/m ²(14.2 oz/yd ²).Fabric construction is 18 picks per centimeter of 25 warp thread/cm x (63 warp thread/inch * 46 picks per inch), fabric tightness 1.09, fibre compact degree 1.26.Its fiber content is a 20%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre and 80%(weight) cotton fiber.Corresponding percentage composition is respectively 35%(weight in warp thread) and 65%(weight).It is respectively 4.0LF and 3.4SF circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value ²

Example 12

Repeat example 2, but by 15%(weight) dye blue PPD-T fiber, 20%(weight) nylon 66 fiber and 65%(weight) combed cotton makes the scutching cotton silver mixing, so spin yarn be the multistrand yarn identical with line density with the twist of example 2 yarns.

As example 2, multistrand yarn with formation like this is made warp thread in pick loom, with by 30%(weight) nylon 66 fiber and 70%(weight) and combed cotton make have the weft yarn of same twist and line density to be made into 3 * 1 twill structure fabrics with warp thread, but the dextrad twill has all been knitted (other are all the same) with the left-hand TWILL CLOTH.Therefore left-hand TWILL CLOTH middle twill yarn is to the waling reverse lay.These fabrics are called 12R and 12L in table.The fiber content of these fabrics is a 9%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre, 24%(weight) nylon staple peacekeeping 67%(weight) cotton fiber.The twill structure of initial dextrad is 17.3 picks per centimeter of 24.4 warp thread/cm x (62 warp thread/inch * 44 picks per inch), Unit Weight 505g/m ²(14.9 oz/yd ²), fabric tightness 1.10, fibre compact degree 0.74.It is respectively 1.0LF and 1.2SF circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value ²The twill respective value of initial left-hand is measured.

As example 2, these grey twills without wide 131 centimetres (51.75 inches) of washing are all washed in hot water, dry under low-tension on the stenter, at width 122cm(48 inch) keep lax down, handled about 30 seconds at 82 ℃ of (180) mercerisings with 24% sodium hydroxide solution, rinsing in the water, neutralization, dry on hot cylinder.Fabric keeps width 114cm(45 inch) mercerising processing once more.In successive range, dye blueness then, 82 ℃ of (180) dryings on hot cylinder.Carrying out mechanical preshrunk after the dyeing handles.The Unit Weight of finished product fabric (handle through double mercerized finish, mechanical preshrunk is handled), left-hand twill and dextrad TWILL CLOTH are respectively 460g/m ²(13.6 oz/yd ²) and 471g/m ²(13.9 oz/yd ²).The fiber content of finished product fabric is a 9%(weight) PPD-T staple fibre, 24%(weight) nylon staple peacekeeping 67%(weight) cotton fiber.In warp thread corresponding percentage composition be 15%, 20% and 65%(weight).

The twill structure of finished product dextrad is 17 picks per centimeter of 25 warp thread/cm x (63 warp thread/inch * 43 picks per inch), fabric tightness 1.11, fibre compact degree 1.08.It is respectively 2.3LF and 3.1SF circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value ²

The twill structure of finished product left-hand is 17 picks per centimeter of 25 warp thread/cm x (63 warp thread/inch * 43 picks per inch), fabric tightness 1.11, fibre compact degree 1.08.It is respectively 2.3LF and 3.1SF circulation/g/m that its ratio is tieed up auspicious pik ABRASION RESISTANCE value ²

The result of above-mentioned these examples is summarised in the table 1, and wherein " LF " and " SF " is the abbreviation of " long warp float " and " short warp float ".Provided the PPD-T fiber of warp thread and the ratio of low modulus fiber in the table, when weft yarn was identical with warp thread, this ratio also was applicable to fabric.When weft yarn and warp thread not simultaneously, represent the ratio of fabric separately with bracket.

Table 1: fabric of the present invention

PPD-T: low

Low modulus modulus fiber compares Wei Ruipi

The tight fiber of embodiment staple fibre warp yarn fabric tightly restrains ABRASION RESISTANCE

Numbering (S) (fabric) density density circulation/g/m ²

1 cotton 45: 55 1.18 6.67 27.6

2 nylon/25: 20,/55 1.10 1.34 4.4 LF of cotton

（15∶24/61） 4.4 SF

3 MPD-I 51∶49 1.13 1.25 6.3

4 cottons 45: 55 1.13 2.90 21.4

5 cottons 22: 78 1.13 1.25 5.3

6 cottons 53: 47 1.05 2.14 8.3

45: 55 1.09 2.06 7.8 LF of 7 cottons

（23∶77） 18.7SF

45: 55 1.13 2.48 14.5 LF of 8 cottons

（27∶73） 11.2 SF

45: 55 1.11 1.31 5.1 LF of 9 cottons

（25∶75） 8.5 SF

40: 60 1.10 1.37 8.2 LF of 10 cottons

（23∶77） 2.0 SF

35: 65 1.09 1.26 4.0 LF of 11 cottons

（20∶80） 3.4 SF

12R nylon/15: 20,/65 1.11 1.08 2.3 LF of cotton

（9∶24/67） 3.1 SF

12L nylon/15: 20,/65 1.11 1.03 3.3 LF of cotton

（9∶24/67） 2.3 SF

Table 2: the Jet Stream spinning machine is set up condition

The embodiment numbering

1 3 6 7

C/S C/S C/S

Sliver (wt.g/m) 2.5 2.5/2.5 2.5/3.9 2.5/2.5

Speed (m/min) 160 1,60/,160 1,40/,140 160/160

Total stretch ratio 95 1,58/,181 1,64/,265 150/175

Main drafting ratio 35 35,/35 35,/35 35/35

Charge ratio .98 .99/.99 .97/97 .99/.99

Condensers (mm) 4 3/3 4/4 3/3

Cylinder is to the distance 39 39,/39 39,/39 39/39 of nozzle

（mm）

Air pressure (kg/cm ²)

Nozzle 1 3.5 4/4 3/3 3/3

Nozzle 24 4/4 4/4 4/4

Annotate: C/S=core/sheath

Claims

1, a kind of high-durability woven fabric of making by the yarn that separates staple fibre, the modulus that has that comprises 8-70% has the organic short fiber of modulus less than the low modulus of 100g/dtex greater than the organic short fiber of the high-modulus of 200g/dtex and 30-92%, it is characterized in that, the warp thread of this fabric contains at least 15% high modulus organic fibre, this fabric has greater than 1.0 fabric tightness with greater than 1.0 fibre compact degree, and this low modulus staple fibre has been contracted to the position that they surround the high-modulus staple fibre on the spot.

According to the fabric of claim 1, it is characterized in that 2, this low modulus fiber and high modulus fibre curl.

According to the fabric of claim 1 or 2, it is characterized in that 3, at the yarn that the yarn of warp thread direction is made up of high-modulus staple fibre and low modulus staple fibre, the yarn aspect weft yarn then only is made up of the low modulus staple fibre.

According to the fabric of claim 3, it is characterized in that 4, this low modulus fiber is a cotton fiber.

According to the fabric of claim 3, it is characterized in that 5, this high modulus fibre is anti-combustion, and this low modulus fiber is the retardant cotton fiber.

According to the fabric of claim 3, it is characterized in that 6, this fabric contains the 0-5%(weight of fabric weight) additive.

According to the fabric of claim 3, it is characterized in that 7, this warp thread is the skin/heart yarn of crimped staple.

According to the fabric of claim 3, it is characterized in that 8, this high modulus fibre is the Fanglun 1414.

According to the fabric of claim 1, it is characterized in that 9, this low modulus fiber is a kind of synthetic fiber.

According to the fabric of claim 1, it is characterized in that 10, this low modulus fiber is the mixture of cotton fiber and synthetic fiber.

11, a kind of method of making the high-durability woven fabric, comprise make a kind of by having modulus greater than the high-modulus organic short fiber of the 8-70% of 200g/dtex with have the woven fabric that modulus is formed less than the contractile organic short fiber of the low modulus of the 30-92% of 100g/dtex, wherein this warp thread contains at least 15% high modulus fibre and this fabric and has greater than 1.0 fabric tightness with less than 1.0 fibre compact degree, bring up to the shrink process that is higher than 1.0 level with the fibre compact degree that this fabric is enough to make this fabric, and this shrink process is by implementing mercerization or implementing by fire-retardant process or by heating in high pressure collection still.

12, according to the method for claim 11, it is characterized in that, carry out this mercerization and make this fabric lax simultaneously at weft direction.

13, according to the method for claim 12, it is characterized in that, earlier this fabric is carried out mercerization, drying and then carry out mercerization.

14,, it is characterized in that this fire-retardant process comprises with the Tetrakis hydroxymethyl phosphonium chloride urea condensate to handle and solidify with ammonia according to the method for claim 11.