CN102251415B - Method for dyeing ultrafine-denier porous nylon fabric - Google Patents
Method for dyeing ultrafine-denier porous nylon fabric Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention relates to a method for dyeing an ultrafine-denier porous nylon fabric, which aims to solve the technical problems of difficult control on dyeing, probably caused uneven dye, color difference and the like in the dyeing process. The method is applicable to a fabric formed by weaving ultrafine-denier nylon filaments of 22dtex/35f and 44dtex/72f. The method is characterized by selecting optimized parameters for each step, especially the progressive heating-dyeing step. In the progressive heating-dyeing step, the heating rate is controlled at 1.0 DEG C/min when the temperature is below 55 DEG C, and the heating rate is controlled at 0.5 DEG C/min when the temperature is above 55 DEG C; and the dyeing temperature is controlled to range between 95 DEG C and 99 DEG C, the dyeing time is controlled to be 45 minutes, and the pH value is controlled to range between 4 and 6. Thus, the dyeing evenness can be ensured.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the shell-fabric dyeing and finishing field, specifically the colouring method of a kind of super fine denier, porous nylon fabric.Be applicable to the new fabric that 22dtex/35f, 44dtex/72f super fine denier chinlon filament are made into.
Background technology
Superfine Denier fibre does not have strict difinition, and in general, the fiber that filament number is lower than 0.55dtex is defined as superfine Denier fibre; The production method of superfine Denier fibre has multiple, present method to mainly contain decrement method, stripping method and direct spinning.It is simple that the method for directly spinning is produced the superfine Denier fibre technical matters, and environmental friendliness just more and more comes into one's own and popularizes.Directly spin at present comparative maturity of method production super fine denier polyester fiber technique, and also have technical bottleneck for the production of super fine denier polyamide fibre.
The super fine denier nylon fibre is a kind of functional fiber of novel high-tech, has excellent soft comfortableness, sucting wet air permeability and hydrophilic skin-friendly, can be used as high-grade fabric.But use at present the technology of melting direct fabrics method manufacturing (surpassing) fine denier nylon fiber still immature.The inventor develops a kind of master batch auxiliary agent before this, this master batch auxiliary agent is to be processed by metallic compound and the abundant mixed melting of nylon matrix, utilize this master batch auxiliary agent and nylon particle to carry out direct fusion method spinning, can reach the purpose of spinning denier/superfine denier nylon long filament.Correlation technique has been applied for patent, and detailed technology information is to elaborate in the patent documentations such as CN101122053A, CN101139750A, CN101311389A, CN101724265A and CN1068075A at publication number.
And the super fine denier nylon fabric is most important to the dyeing and finishing processing of fabric as obtaining good wearability.Because production method is different, the fiber number of fiber, Cross Section Morphology and molecular structure all can be different, so weaving with dyeing of super fine denier nylon fabric compared with conventional polyamide fibre, have significant difference.From fiber itself, what affect fiber dyeing performance mainly contains fiber number, cross sectional shape, skin-core structure, degree of crystallinity, the degree of orientation and oligomer content etc., comprise in addition weave and dyeing and finishing before processing conditions: such as heating temperature, the various factors such as destarch speed and Tensity size.Polyamide fibre has the advantages that dyeing rate is fast, degree of exhaustion is high and the dyestuff universality is high, but also because dyeing rate is fast, and improper measures easily causes and dyes irregularly, produces the defects such as aberration, look stain, color dot, depth limit, barriness and COLOR FASTNESS be poor.
Summary of the invention
The present invention is directed to the super fine denier nylon fabric is completely new product, its filament number is thin, surface area is large, the fibrous appearance irregularity is high, there are the characteristics such as difference in fibrous molecular structure, is prone to relatively to be difficult to control when dyeing, because dye-uptake is high, dyeing rate is fast, be prone to the technical problems such as dyeing flower, aberration, a kind of new colouring method is provided.
The colouring method of super fine denier of the present invention, porous nylon fabric is applicable to the fabric that 22dtex/35f, 44dtex/72f super fine denier chinlon filament are made into, by dyeing and finishing preliminary treatment-cold soaking-cascade raising temperature-dyeing-draining cleaning-fixation-abundant cleaning-fixating shape step.
The characteristics such as super fine denier of the present invention, porous nylon cotton face fabric have ultra-fine, super gentle, porous, matter is close, the rate of sizing is large are carried out smoothly in order to ensure dyeing, guarantee product quality, need carry out preliminary treatment to the super fine denier nylon fabric.Described dyeing and finishing pre-treatment step,---open-width desizing------hot water wash---cold wash operation of soaping of passing through respectively cold dome; Wherein in the cold dome process, the consumption of alkali is 20～100g/L, and used alkali is one or more in NaOH, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, the potash; The bleeding agent consumption is 0.5～5g/L, and used bleeding agent is one or more among bleeding agent FK-ST12, FK-ST15B, FK-ST18D, FK-ST20, FK-ST10B, FK-ST22, the M-7705 etc.; The cold dome time is 8～20h; Open-width desizing agent consumption is 1～10g/L in the open-width desizing process, used desizing agent is one or more (being preferably HS-211 and HS-99, better effects if when the two proportioning is 1: 1) among SUKAMY-TX55, HS-99,209, thunder A, Deter S-37, HS-211A and the HS-211; The destarch temperature is controlled at 60～105 ℃ (being preferably 80～95 ℃); Temperature is controlled at 50～100 ℃ (being preferably 70～90 ℃) in the process of soaping; Temperature is controlled at 50～80 ℃ in the hot water wash process.
In view of super fine denier, porous nylon fabric dyeing rate fast, the high characteristics of dye-uptake, on to dye temperature higher, the dye molecule motion is faster, more active with the polyamide fibre molecular action, dyeing rate is faster, just very easily produces look flower, aberration; Simultaneously, the pH value size of dyeing liquor also produces obviously impact to dyeing course and Color, and when namely dye liquor pH value was high, dyestuff dyed on being difficult to; Along with the pH value reduces, dye on dyestuff begins, and reach capacity fast; Along with the pH value further reduces, the nylon fabric surface molecule structure is destroyed, the beginning hydrolysis, thus end carboxyl and the amino density of end increase, and adsorpting dye molecule speed increases fast, and fabric begins super equivalent adsorption dye molecule, easily causes uneven dyeing.For super fine denier, porous nylon fabric, filament number is thin, and specific area is large, and nylon fabric top layer end carboxyl and the amino density of end are higher, more are prone to uneven dyeing, produce aberration, thereby also have a strong impact on the cloth quality.For this reason, dye on temperature, on dye time and dye liquor pH value control seem even more important for the Color of super fine denier, porous nylon fabric.The present invention is for super fine denier, porous nylon fabric dyeing, and the mode that adopt substep dyeing, progressively heats up namely adopts first the cold soaking mode, then cascade raising temperature-dyeing.
The polyamide fibre molecule contains a large amount of amino and carboxyl, and DISPERSE DYES, ACID DYES, weak acid dye and preferred out direct dyes all can be used in the dyeing of polyamide fibre.Dyestuff is different, and Color also can be different.In view of super fine denier, porous nylon fabric belong to completely new product, the characteristics such as its specific area is large, the hole capillary effect is obvious, dyeing rate is fast, Yi Sehua, aberration, particularly important to the selection of dyestuff when therefore dyeing.Cold soaking step of the present invention at room temperature immerses dye liquor with fabric, and dyestuff is ACID DYES, and dye liquor concentration is 1～8% (being preferably 2～6%).In view of super fine denier, porous nylon fabric dyeing rate fast, the high characteristics of dye-uptake, also need add levelling agent, stain resistance (its effect is the interaction that hinders NH, COOH etc. in dyeing group and the nylon molecule, thereby delays the dyeing rate of nylon, reaches the effect that reduces aberration) during dyeing.Simultaneously; since super fine denier, porous nylon fabric when rear HEAT SETTING and pressing mold are processed easily because of the oxidative degradation xanthochromia; have a strong impact on product quality; thereby need add among an amount of fiber protective agent UmidolUW, the Umidol APY liq one or both; its addition is 2～8g/L; can make active free radical be transformed into stable molecule, to reduce fiber degradation and xanthochromia.In the cold soaking step of the present invention, the levelling agent consumption is 0.3～3g/L, and levelling agent is one or more among FK-451,450B, FK-462, FK-470, the CibatexPA; The stain resistance consumption is 0.5～5g/L, and stain resistance is one or more among AO, CGNZ and the MESITOL NBS; Utilize acetic acid and ammonium sulfate cushioning liquid that dye liquor pH value is adjusted to 4～6, the cold soaking time is 5～30min.
In view of super fine denier, porous nylon fabric dyeing rate fast, the high characteristics of dye-uptake, on to dye temperature higher, the dye molecule motion is faster, more active with the polyamide fibre molecular action, dyeing rate is faster, just very easily produces look flower, aberration.The control of heating rate is also very crucial for the dyeing of super fine denier nylon fabric for this reason, and heating rate is too fast, and dye molecule motion diffusivity increases fast, dyeing flower very easily occurs; Heating rate is excessively slow, and dye molecule is fully had an effect with the nylon surface amino groups, causes to continue to dye ability, and fabric color will be partially shallow.And, in view of super fine denier, porous nylon fabric specific area large, the high characteristics of dye-uptake, final dyeing temperature needs strict control.The dyeing flower phenomenon very easily appears in excess Temperature; Temperature is excessively low, and dye molecule is difficult for going deep into fibrous inside, look shallow occurs, the phenomenon of fading.Therefore, cascade raising temperature-staining procedure of the present invention is controlled at 1.0 ℃/min at heating rate below 55 ℃, and heating rate is controlled at 0.5 ℃/min more than 55 ℃; Dyeing temperature is controlled between 95～99 ℃, and dyeing time is controlled at 45min, and the pH value is controlled between 4～6.
The draining cleaning step is to clean be cooled to 60 ℃ after dyeing finishes after, and except removal floating color, rate of temperature fall is controlled at 1～4 ℃/min.
In addition, because this super fine denier porous nylon fabric dyeing kinetics is fast, be prone to surperficial saturated phenomenon, cause COLOR FASTNESS inadequate.Need to add corresponding color-fixing agent after dyeing finishes and carry out fixation, color-fixing agent comprises does the auxiliary agents such as poor fastness agent, polyamide fibre Special fixing toner, acidic color fixing agent that wet, and carries out at a certain temperature fixation, so that the super fine denier nylon fabric obtains better COLOR FASTNESS.In the fixation step of the present invention, initial temperature is between 20～40 ℃, and color fixing temperature is limited between 75～85 ℃; The fixation time is at 15～30min; Color-fixing agent is one or more among FK-401A, FK-402, A-12, N-SG, TF-506, STF, the NS-1, and color-fixing agent concentration is 0.5～5g/L.
After finishing super fine denier, porous nylon fabric dyeing, because the characteristic that the super fine denier polyamide fibre more easily shrinks need utilize hot blast stentering forming equipment to carry out heat treatment fabric, with the door width of cloth, cloth surface evenness and the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of control fabric.The selection of setting temperature all can exert an influence to feel degree, the pliability of fabric, mainly be because the molecular structure of super fine denier chinlon filament obviously is subject to adding the impact of temperature, when temperature surpasses 160 ℃, crystal transition can occur, degree of crystallinity increases thereupon, the feel hardening, flexibility descends, and affects the cloth quality.Fixating shape step of the present invention (general process is advanced cloth-auxiliary agent groove-whole latitude-oven dry-tentering-cylinder and cooled off-go out cloth-clot etc.), 140～160 ℃ of setting temperatures, shaping time 10～40s.
Remarkable result of the present invention is, utilizes this dyeing method, can overcome that the dyeing of super fine denier nylon fabric is difficult, the easy shortcoming such as look flower, realizes the controllable dyeing of super fine denier, porous nylon fabric.This technology has also been filled up the blank in domestic and international this field simultaneously, can greatly promote quality and the class of China's textile industry product.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is super fine denier, porous nylon fabric dyeing curve synoptic diagram;
Fig. 2 is super fine denier, porous nylon fabric color fixing process curve synoptic diagram.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1.The colouring method of this routine super fine denier, porous nylon fabric is applicable to the fabric that 22dtex/35f super fine denier chinlon filament is made into.
This routine dyeing and finishing pre-treatment step, wherein in the cold dome process, the consumption of alkali is 60g/L, used alkali is NaOH; The bleeding agent consumption is 1g/L, and used bleeding agent is FK-ST15B; The cold dome time is 15h; Open-width desizing agent consumption is 2g/L in the open-width desizing process, and used desizing agent is Deter S-37; The destarch temperature is controlled at 60～105 ℃; Temperature is controlled at 50～100 ℃ in the process of soaping; Temperature is controlled at 50～80 ℃ in the hot water wash process;
This routine cold soaking dyes step, at room temperature fabric is immersed dye liquor, and dyestuff is ACID DYES, and dye strength is 2%; The levelling agent consumption is 0.8g/L, and levelling agent is CibatexPA; The stain resistance consumption is 1g/L, and stain resistance is AO; Fiber protective agent consumption is 4g/L, fiber protective agent UmidolUW; Utilize acetic acid and ammonium sulfate cushioning liquid that dye liquor pH value is adjusted to 4～6, immerged time is 10min;
This routine cascade raising temperature-staining procedure is limited to 1.0 ℃/min at heating rate below 55 ℃, and heating rate is controlled at 0.5 ℃/min more than 55 ℃; Dyeing temperature is controlled between 95～99 ℃, and dyeing time is controlled at 45min, and the pH value is controlled between 4～6;
This routine fixation step, the color-fixing agent consumption is 2/L, color-fixing agent is FK-401A; Color fixing temperature is limited between 75～85 ℃, and the fixation time is 25min; Color-fixing agent is N-SG, and color-fixing agent concentration is 0.5～5g/L; Auxiliary agent is glacial acetic acid, and concentration is 0.8g/L;
This routine fixating shape step, 140～160 ℃ of setting temperatures, shaping time 15s.22dtex/35f super fine denier, porous nylon fabric through the processing of this kind dyeing-color fixing process, cloth cover is smooth, even dyeing, vivid, the soft cunning of color and luster are glutinous, colorfastness to rubbing, Washing, dry-cleaning COLOR FASTNESS all can reach more than 4 grades, weathering color fastness reaches more than 6 grades, can be used as high-grade wearing fabric and uses.
Embodiment 2.The colouring method of this routine super fine denier, porous nylon fabric is applicable to the fabric that 44dtex/72f super fine denier chinlon filament is made into.
This routine dyeing and finishing pre-treatment step, wherein in the cold dome process, the consumption of alkali is 80g/L, used alkali is NaOH; The bleeding agent consumption is 3g/L, and used bleeding agent is FK-ST15B; The cold dome time is 18h; Open-width desizing agent consumption is 3g/L in the open-width desizing process, and used desizing agent is Deter S-37; The destarch temperature is controlled at 60～105 ℃; Temperature is controlled at 50～100 ℃ in the process of soaping; Temperature is controlled at 50～80 ℃ in the hot water wash process;
This routine cold soaking dyes step, at room temperature fabric is immersed dye liquor, and dyestuff is ACID DYES, and dye strength is 2%; The levelling agent consumption is 1/L, and levelling agent is FK-462; The stain resistance consumption is 1g/L, and stain resistance is AO; Fiber protective agent consumption is 6g/L, fiber protective agent UmidolUW; Utilize acetic acid and ammonium sulfate cushioning liquid that dye liquor pH value is adjusted to 4～6, immerged time is 15min;
This routine cascade raising temperature-staining procedure is controlled at 1.0 ℃/min at heating rate below 55 ℃, and heating rate is controlled at 0.5 ℃/min more than 55 ℃; Dyeing temperature is controlled between 95～99 ℃, and dyeing time is controlled at 45min, and the pH value is controlled between 4～6;
This routine fixation step, the color-fixing agent consumption is 2/L, color-fixing agent is FK-401A; Color fixing temperature is limited between 75～85 ℃, and the fixation time is at 15～30min; Color-fixing agent is N-SG, and color-fixing agent concentration is 0.5～5.0g/L; Auxiliary agent is glacial acetic acid, and concentration is 0.8g/L;
This routine fixating shape step, 140～160 ℃ of setting temperatures, shaping time 25s.
Fig. 1 is the dyeing curve synoptic diagram of super fine denier, porous nylon fabric, adjuvant used levelling agent, the stain resistance of comprising of the stage of wherein initially dyeing, and used dyestuff is ACID DYES.The dye liquor initial temperature is 25 ℃, insulation 15min, afterwards at V0 (under 1 ℃/min) the heating rate, reach " activation temperature ", namely be higher than the glass transition temperature (40 ℃) of polyamide fibre molecule, under this temperature, polyamide fibre molecule segment setting in motion, active group in dye molecule and the polyamide fibre molecule further acts on and paints, and " activation temperature " generally at 55 ℃, the retention time is 20min; Dye liquor pH value remains on 4～6 simultaneously.Afterwards at V1 (under 0.5 ℃/min) the heating rate, reach " dyeing temperature ", this stage is the dyeing Main Stage, the control dyeing temperature is 96 ℃, dyeing time is 45min, heating rate is slower, is controlled to be 0.5 ℃/min, and the speed with 2 ℃/min after dyeing finishes is cooled to 60 ℃ of cleanings.
Fig. 2 is the color fixing process curve map of super fine denier, porous nylon fabric, in the time of 30 ℃, add color-fixing agent, auxiliary agent, wherein adjuvant used is glacial acetic acid, concentration 0.8g/L behind the retention time 20min, reaches " color fixing temperature " with the heating rate of 1 ℃/min, under this temperature, color-fixing agent further with the effect of polyamide fibre molecular radical, strengthen Color, improve the COLOR FASTNESS of fabric.This temperature is 80 ℃, and the fixation time is 25min.
44dtex/72f super fine denier, porous nylon fabric through the processing of this kind dyeing-color fixing process, cloth cover is smooth, even dyeing, vivid, the soft cunning of color and luster are glutinous, colorfastness to rubbing, Washing, dry-cleaning COLOR FASTNESS all can reach more than 4 grades, weathering color fastness reaches more than 6 grades, can be used as high-grade wearing fabric and uses.
Claims (2)
1. the colouring method of a super fine denier, porous nylon fabric, be applicable to the fabric that 22dtex/35f, 44dtex/72f super fine denier chinlon filament are made into, by dyeing and finishing preliminary treatment-cold soaking-cascade raising temperature-dyeing-draining cleaning-fixation-abundant cleaning-fixating shape step, it is characterized in that:
Described dyeing and finishing pre-treatment step,---open-width desizing------hot water wash---cold wash operation of soaping of passing through respectively cold dome; Wherein in the cold dome process, the consumption of alkali is 20 ~ 100g/L, and used alkali is one or more in NaOH, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, the potash; The bleeding agent consumption is 0.5 ~ 5g/L, and used bleeding agent is one or more among bleeding agent FK-ST12, FK-ST15B, FK-ST18D, FK-ST20, FK-ST10B, the FK-ST22; The cold dome time is 8 ~ 20h; Open-width desizing agent consumption is 1 ~ 10g/L in the open-width desizing process, and used desizing agent is HS-99; The destarch temperature is controlled at 60 ~ 105 ℃; Temperature is controlled at 50 ~ 100 ℃ in the process of soaping; Temperature is controlled at 50 ~ 80 ℃ in the hot water wash process;
Described cold soaking step at room temperature immerses dye liquor with fabric, and dyestuff is ACID DYES, and dye strength is 1 ~ 8%; Used auxiliary agent has levelling agent, stain resistance and fiber protective agent, and wherein: the levelling agent consumption is 0.3 ~ 3g/L, and levelling agent is one or more among FK-451, FK-462, the FK-470; The stain resistance consumption is 0.5 ~ 5g/L, and stain resistance is one or both among AO, the CGNZ; Fiber protective agent consumption is 2～8 g/L, and the fiber protective agent is Umidol APY liq; Utilize acetic acid and ammonium sulfate cushioning liquid that dye liquor pH value is adjusted to 4 ~ 6, the cold soaking time is 5 ~ 30min;
Described cascade raising temperature-staining procedure is controlled at 1.0 ℃/min at heating rate below 55 ℃, and heating rate is controlled at 0.5 ℃/min more than 55 ℃; Dyeing temperature is controlled between 95 ~ 99 ℃, and dyeing time is controlled at 45 min, and the pH value is controlled between 4 ~ 6;
Described draining cleaning step is to clean be cooled to 60 ℃ after dyeing finishes after, and except removal floating color, rate of temperature fall is controlled at 1 ~ 4 ℃/min;
Described fixation step, initial temperature are between 20～40 ℃, and color fixing temperature is limited between 75 ~ 85 ℃, and the fixation time is at 15 ~ 30min; Color-fixing agent is one or more among FK-401A, FK-402, the TF-506, and color-fixing agent concentration is 0.5 ~ 5g/L; Auxiliary agent is glacial acetic acid, and concentration is 0.5 ~ 2g/L;
Described fixating shape step cools off-goes out cloth-coiling step, 140 ~ 160 ℃ of setting temperatures, shaping time 10 ~ 40s through advancing cloth-auxiliary agent groove-whole latitude-oven dry-tentering-cylinder.
2. the colouring method of super fine denier according to claim 1, porous nylon fabric is characterized in that in the dyeing and finishing step, and the open-width desizing temperature is controlled at 80 ~ 95 ℃; Temperature is controlled at 70 ~ 90 ℃ in the process of soaping; Cold soaking dyes in the step, and dyestuff is ACID DYES, and dye liquor concentration is 2 ~ 6%.
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