CN104420359A - Processing method of wool fabrics - Google Patents
Processing method of wool fabrics Download PDFInfo
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- CN104420359A CN104420359A CN201310405968.8A CN201310405968A CN104420359A CN 104420359 A CN104420359 A CN 104420359A CN 201310405968 A CN201310405968 A CN 201310405968A CN 104420359 A CN104420359 A CN 104420359A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a processing method of wool fabrics. An innovation point is that the processing method comprises the following steps: performing wool washing, dyeing pretreatment, dyeing, spinning, weaving and after-finishing on raw material wool, wherein a pretreatment process is performed in a pretreatment liquid with a pH value of 8.7-8.9; in a dyeing process, a penetrating agent, a metal chelating agent, a bath smoothing agent, a leveling agent and an anti-static agent are added into dyes; and an acid neutralization process is performed in an after-treatment liquid with a pH value of 4-6. The wool fabrics disclosed by the invention are good in cloth cover condition and excellent in various color fastness, can be directly washed in water by hand, and are good in anti-felting-shrinkage effect.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of processing method of wool fabric, it is good to be specifically related to a kind of COLOR FASTNESS, and the processing method of the wool fabric of can directly soak hand washing or machine washing, belongs to textile dyeing and finishing technical field.
Background technology
Traditional woolen dyed technique need through the dyeing technique that gives up for a long time, and the dyeing technique that boils easily causes wool fabric damage, yellowing, and affect fabric face style, the dyeing technique that simultaneously boils also is not suitable with the demand of economize energy.Up to the present, the wool low energy consumption decoration method proposed mainly concentrates on low temperature dyeing aspect, specifically has: solvents aids method, urea method, formic acid method, cellulase treatment method, low temperature dyeing assistant method, Ultrasonic Dyeing method, low temperature plasma dyeing method, Fabric Low-temperature Dyeing With Redox System method etc.Solvents aids method is in the liquid dye bath of routine, adds on a small quantity through the solvent (being less than 5 grams per liters) of screening, can make wool 80 DEG C time on contaminate.Solvents aids method requires to reclaim organic solvent, and very high to the sealing requirements of equipment, and cost of investment is high, has a strong impact on production environment, can not industrially widely apply.Urea method can improve the performance of fabric significantly.In some cases, in order to obtain good tinctorial yield and level dyeing, in mangle, bisulfites is added.When adding 10 grams per liter NaHSO
3time, the physical characteristic of fiber can not be damaged, but the NaHSO3 adding 20 grams per liters loses " can't harm " advantage of this system, and the efficiency of urea method is inadequate, does not therefore apply on large production.Formic acid method at room temperature dyes with the dense formic acid (98%) of large bath raio, the special equipment that its requirement must use expensive acid-resistant steel material to make, the acidity of formic acid itself is crossed and is easily caused wool damage by force, so formic acid method fails to obtain industrial applications.Cellulase treatment method is also more application in low temperature dyeing is produced, but protease can make wool peptide chain be hydrolyzed, affects the brute force of wool, is oxidized pre-treatment and also has damage wool.The effect of low temperature dyeing assistant method is unstable, needs accurately to apply.Low temperature plasma method and ultrasonic low temperature decoration method, all because of the restriction on its equipment, cannot be applied to large production.Fabric Low-temperature Dyeing With Redox System method is comparatively serious to the damage of wool, is difficult to the wool fabric being applied to high-quality.In a word, the above-mentioned method for low temperature dyeing of wool, all fails to obtain large-scale industrial applications.
In addition, wool due to the coated design feature of its natural scale, in humid conditions through friction, rub and easily make wool fibre be shifted to produce felting phenomenon, thus the water washed after-contraction of the finished product that wool fabric is made is out of shape excessive, affect service life, comparatively washing is high a lot of again for dry-cleaning expense.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to solve deficiency of the prior art, provide a kind of COLOR FASTNESS good, the wool fabric of can directly soak hand washing or machine washing and processing method thereof.
For solving the problems of the technologies described above, the present invention adopts following technical scheme to realize: described processing method comprises the steps: pulled wool scouring of wool, dyeing pre-treatment, dyeing, spins, weaves, Final finishing; Described pretreatment procedure is carry out in the pretreatment liquid of 8.7-8.9 in pH value, described dyeing process adds smooth agent, levelling agent and antistatic additive in bleeding agent, metal-chelator, bath in dyestuff, in acid and operation be carry out in the aftertreatment fluid of 4-6 in pH value.
In described dyeing pretreatment procedure, pretreatment liquid is degreaser, neutral electrolyte, and the aqueous solution of carbonate or bicarbonate; The consumption of described degreaser is every 2-2.2g/L, and the consumption of described neutral electrolyte is 2-4% (o.w.f), and the consumption of described carbonate or bicarbonate makes the pH value of described pretreatment liquid between 8.7-8.9.
Described dyeing process adopts reactive dye for wool, at least levelling agent is comprised in dye liquor, dyestuff, and aqueous acetic acid, also comprise smooth agent and antistatic additive in bleeding agent, metal-chelator, bath, wherein in bleeding agent, metal-chelator, bath, the consumption of smooth agent and antistatic additive is respectively 0.25-0.5g/L, 0.4-0.5g/L, 1-2g/L, 0.5-1g/L, and the consumption of levelling agent is 1-2% (o.w.f).
Described levelling agent is dodecyl benzyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and described conjunction crude oil is SPINTEX-DSC; Described antistatic additive is stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride.
In described dyeing process, described wool is placed in industrial soft water, add auxiliary agent in the following order: first add described bleeding agent, then add smooth agent and antistatic additive in described metal-chelator, bath simultaneously, then described levelling agent is added, then add described acetic acid, then add dyestuff.
Not discharge opeing after described dyeing process terminates, directly adds carbonate and regulates pH value at 8.5-8.7, carry out alkali cleaning, then acid neutralization.
Described spinning stage comprises in the process of after backwashing → silver mixing → combing → grilling → rove → spun yarn → combing → grilling → spun yarn and adds conjunction crude oil and antistatic additive.
The technological process of described weaving step be warping → beaming → upper axle → receive twist → gait → cross reed → weave → cropping.
Described Final finishing step is fulling milling → oven dry → cropping → machine washable → decatizing → finished product.
Beneficial effect of the present invention: pretreatment procedure carries out under the environment of weak base, both can remove wool surfaces impurity, again can not be too serious to its damage; After dyeing process terminates, not discharge opeing directly enters caustic wash process, and economize energy also saves the process time; Caustic wash process, according to the consumption of soda ash in dye strength determination alkali cleaning, while guarantee COLOR FASTNESS is good, guarantees that wool damage is little as far as possible.The wool fabric that method of the present invention is produced directly can be intake and be hand-washed or machine washing, and anti-felting is effective, and washing shrinkage is less than or equal to 2%, and felting shrinkage factor, is all less than or equal to 2% through broadwise.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, technical scheme of the present invention is elaborated.
Basic procedure: dyeing, after backwashing, silver mixing, combing, grilling, rove, spun yarn, winder, doubling, twisting, yarn steaming, warping, weave cotton cloth, fulling milling, oven dry, cropping, machine washable, decatizing, finished product.
embodiment 1
Fibre fineness 18-20 μm selected by raw material, the fine wool that average length is about 90 millimeters.
Pretreatment procedure: inject industrial soft water by bath raio 1:2 in jet dyeing machine, wool fabric is dropped in jet dyeing machine, record now height of water level, add degreaser, sodium chloride, then add sodium carbonate formation pretreatment liquid, pretreatment liquid pH value is 8.7, then be warming up to 45 DEG C, be incubated 30 minutes, discharge opeing, once, water washing bath ratio is 1: 12 in 35-45 DEG C of washing; The consumption of degreaser is preferably 2.1g in every premium on currency, the consumption 4% (o.w.f) of neutral electrolyte.
Dyeing process: with pre-treatment height of water level for standard, industrial soft water is injected in jet dyeing machine, industrial soft water is warming up to 35 DEG C, in industrial soft water, add auxiliary agent in the following order form dye liquor: first add bleeding agent JET, then add precious C, antistatic additive in metal-chelator YH-56, bath simultaneously, then add levelling agent LTD, then add acetic acid.In bleeding agent JET, metal-chelator YH-56, bath, the consumption of precious C and antistatic additive is respectively 0.25g/L0.4g/L, 1g/L, 0.5g/L; the consumption of levelling agent LTD, acetic acid is respectively 5% (o.w.f) and 1% (o.w.f); operate 6 minutes; then add dyestuff, operate 12 minutes; Then be warming up to 88 DEG C in 65 minutes, be incubated 40 minutes, be cooled to 58 DEG C, once, the bath raio of hot water wash is 1:13 to 50 DEG C of hot water wash, acid neutralization after alkali cleaning.
Next the traditional spinning stage carried out, continues to add and closes crude oil, antistatic additive in combing, grilling, spun yarn process.Spinning idiographic flow is: after backwashing, silver mixing, three road preparings, combing, twice end comb, grilling, recombing, multiple last comb, rove, spun yarn.
To in the carding of fine wool and slivering process, add spinning assistant and the antistatic additive of standard dose, in dyeing, add the antistatic additive of the levelling agent of 2% and the conjunction crude oil of 1% and 2%.
The spun yarn machine that roller annex is housed carries out spun yarn processing.
Warping uses the cold slurry of 12% by even starching during feeding grooved roller beaming, and loom speed is 250rpm, woven technological process: warping-beaming-go up axle-Na to twist-gait-reed excessively-weave-cropping.
The cloth that fallen carries out Final finishing processing: fulling milling-oven dry-cropping-machine washable-decatizing-finished product; Carry out crabbing 30 minutes in the hot water after fabric is made into, face liber stress is stablized, the fabric forming machine door width of fulling milling process stretches 4 percent, and the direction vertical with door width adopts the overfeeding mode entering soon to go out slowly, and overfeeding length is 4 percent; Then wiped out by the wool fibre end at random of web surface poor stability, machine washable is the one-time detection to the shrinkproof performance of the washing of fabric.Shape 8 minutes with 130 degree of high-temperature steam cylinders after machine washing.
embodiment 2
Fibre fineness 18 μm selected by raw material, the fine wool that average length is about 90 millimeters.
Pretreatment procedure: inject industrial soft water by bath raio 1:14 in jet dyeing machine, wool fabric is dropped in jet dyeing machine, record now height of water level, add degreaser, sodium chloride, then add sodium carbonate formation pretreatment liquid, pretreatment liquid pH value is 8.7, then be warming up to 45 DEG C, be incubated 30 minutes, discharge opeing, once, water washing bath ratio is 1: 14 in 35-45 DEG C of washing; The consumption of degreaser is preferably 2.1g in every premium on currency, the consumption 3% (o.w.f) of neutral electrolyte.
Dyeing process: with pre-treatment height of water level for standard, industrial soft water is injected in jet dyeing machine, industrial soft water is warming up to 40 DEG C, in industrial soft water, add auxiliary agent in the following order form dye liquor: first add bleeding agent JET, then add precious C, antistatic additive in metal-chelator YH-56, bath simultaneously, then add levelling agent LTD, then add acetic acid.In bleeding agent JET, metal-chelator YH-56, bath, the consumption of precious C and antistatic additive is respectively 0.25g/L, 0.4g/L, 1g/L, 0.5g/L; the consumption of levelling agent LTD, acetic acid is respectively 5% (o.w.f) and 1% (o.w.f); operate 6 minutes; then add dyestuff, operate 12 minutes; Then be warming up to 88 DEG C in 65 minutes, be incubated 40 minutes, be cooled to 58 DEG C, once, the bath raio of hot water wash is 1:13 to 50 DEG C of hot water wash, acid neutralization after alkali cleaning.
Next the traditional spinning stage carried out, continues to add and closes crude oil, antistatic additive in combing, grilling, spun yarn process.Spinning idiographic flow is: after backwashing, silver mixing, three road preparings, combing, twice end comb, grilling, recombing, multiple last comb, rove, spun yarn.
To in the carding of fine wool and slivering process, add spinning assistant and the antistatic additive of standard dose, in dyeing, add the antistatic additive of the levelling agent of 2% and the conjunction crude oil of 1% and 2%.
The spun yarn machine that roller annex is housed carries out spun yarn processing.
Warping use 12% cold slurry by even starching during feeding grooved roller beaming, loom speed is 250rpm, woven technological process: warping, beaming, upper axle, receive strand, gait, mistake reed, weave, cropping.
The cloth that fallen carries out Final finishing processing: fulling milling, oven dry, cropping, machine washable, decatizing, finished product; Carry out crabbing 30 minutes in the hot water after fabric is made into, face liber stress is stablized, the fabric forming machine door width of fulling milling process stretches 4 percent, and the direction vertical with door width adopts the overfeeding mode entering soon to go out slowly, and overfeeding length is 4 percent; Then wiped out by the wool fibre end at random of web surface poor stability, machine washable is the one-time detection to the shrinkproof performance of the washing of fabric.Shape 8 minutes with 130 degree of high-temperature steam cylinders after machine washing.
embodiment 2
Fibre fineness 20 μm selected by raw material, the fine wool that average length is about 92 millimeters.
Pretreatment procedure: inject industrial soft water by bath raio 1:14 in jet dyeing machine, wool fabric is dropped in jet dyeing machine, record now height of water level, add degreaser, sodium chloride, then add sodium carbonate formation pretreatment liquid, pretreatment liquid pH value is 8.9, then be warming up to 50 DEG C, be incubated 35 minutes, discharge opeing, once, water washing bath ratio is 1: 14 in 35-45 DEG C of washing; The consumption of degreaser is preferably 2.2g, the consumption 2-4% (o.w.f) of neutral electrolyte in every premium on currency.
Dyeing process: with pre-treatment height of water level for standard, industrial soft water is injected in jet dyeing machine, industrial soft water is warming up to 35 DEG C, in industrial soft water, add auxiliary agent in the following order form dye liquor: first add bleeding agent JET, then add precious C, antistatic additive in metal-chelator YH-56, bath simultaneously, then add levelling agent LTD, then add acetic acid.In bleeding agent JET, metal-chelator YH-56, bath, the consumption of precious C and antistatic additive is respectively 0.5g/L, 0.5g/L, 2g/L, 1g/L; the consumption of levelling agent LTD, acetic acid is respectively 5% (o.w.f) and 2% (o.w.f); operate 5 minutes; then add dyestuff, operate 10 minutes; Then be warming up to 88 DEG C in 65 minutes, be incubated 40 minutes, be cooled to 58 DEG C, once, the bath raio of hot water wash is 1:15 to 50 DEG C of hot water wash, acid neutralization after alkali cleaning.
Next the traditional spinning stage carried out, continues to add and closes crude oil, antistatic additive in combing, grilling, spun yarn process.Spinning idiographic flow is: after backwashing, silver mixing, three road preparings, combing, twice end comb, grilling, recombing, multiple last comb, rove, spun yarn.
To in the carding of fine wool and slivering process, add spinning assistant and the antistatic additive of standard dose, in dyeing, add the antistatic additive of the levelling agent of 2% and the conjunction crude oil of 1% and 2%.
The spun yarn machine that roller annex is housed carries out spun yarn processing.
Warping use 13% cold slurry by even starching during feeding grooved roller beaming, loom speed is 240rpm, woven technological process: warping, beaming, upper axle, receive strand, gait, mistake reed, weave and cropping.
The cloth that fallen carries out Final finishing processing: fulling milling, oven dry, cropping, machine washable, decatizing, finished product; Carry out crabbing 30 minutes in the hot water after fabric is made into, face liber stress is stablized, the fabric forming machine door width of fulling milling process stretches 4 percent, and the direction vertical with door width adopts the overfeeding mode entering soon to go out slowly, and overfeeding length is 4 percent; Then wiped out by the wool fibre end at random of web surface poor stability, machine washable is the one-time detection to the shrinkproof performance of the washing of fabric.Shape 8 minutes with 130 degree of high-temperature steam cylinders after machine washing.
Claims (9)
1. a processing method for wool fabric, is characterized in that, described processing method comprises the steps: pulled wool scouring of wool, dyeing pre-treatment, dyeing, spins, weaves, Final finishing; Described pretreatment procedure is carry out in the pretreatment liquid of 8.7-8.9 in pH value, described dyeing process adds smooth agent, levelling agent and antistatic additive in bleeding agent, metal-chelator, bath in dyestuff, in acid and operation be carry out in the aftertreatment fluid of 4-6 in pH value.
2. the processing method of a kind of wool fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: in described dyeing pretreatment procedure, pretreatment liquid is degreaser, neutral electrolyte, and the aqueous solution of carbonate or bicarbonate; The consumption of described degreaser is every 2-2.2g/L, and the consumption of described neutral electrolyte is 2-4% (o.w.f), and the consumption of described carbonate or bicarbonate makes the pH value of described pretreatment liquid between 8.7-8.9.
3. the processing method of a kind of wool fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described dyeing process adopts reactive dye for wool, at least levelling agent is comprised in dye liquor, dyestuff, and aqueous acetic acid, also comprise smooth agent and antistatic additive in bleeding agent, metal-chelator, bath, wherein in bleeding agent, metal-chelator, bath, the consumption of smooth agent and antistatic additive is respectively 0.25-0.5g/L, 0.4-0.5g/L, 1-2g/L, 0.5-1g/L, and the consumption of levelling agent is 1-2% (o.w.f).
4. the processing method of a kind of wool fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described levelling agent is dodecyl benzyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and described conjunction crude oil is SPINTEX-DSC; Described antistatic additive is stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride.
5. the processing method of a kind of wool fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described dyeing process, described wool is placed in industrial soft water, add auxiliary agent in the following order: first add described bleeding agent, then add smooth agent and antistatic additive in described metal-chelator, described bath simultaneously, then add described levelling agent, then add described acetic acid, then add dyestuff.
6. the processing method of a kind of wool fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: not discharge opeing after described dyeing process terminates, and directly adds carbonate and regulates pH value at 8.5-8.7, carry out alkali cleaning, then acid neutralization.
7. the processing method of a kind of wool fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described spinning stage comprises in the process of after backwashing → silver mixing → combing → grilling → rove → spun yarn → combing → grilling → spun yarn and adds conjunction crude oil and antistatic additive.
8. the processing method of a kind of wool fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: the technological process of described weaving step be warping → beaming → upper axle → receive twist → gait → cross reed → weave → cropping.
9. the processing method of a kind of wool fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described Final finishing step is fulling milling → oven dry → cropping → machine washable → decatizing → finished product.
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Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107361411A (en) * | 2017-06-28 | 2017-11-21 | 任新庄 | A kind of preparation method of wool flocking thermal underwear face fabric |
| CN107904988A (en) * | 2017-11-17 | 2018-04-13 | 桐乡市濮院毛针织技术服务中心 | Woollen and cashmere printing and dyeing assistant |
| CN112127033A (en) * | 2020-09-24 | 2020-12-25 | 兰州三毛实业有限公司 | Production and processing method of wool containing grass thorn and coarse-cavity structure |
| CN114808487A (en) * | 2021-06-28 | 2022-07-29 | 染格材料科技(上海)有限公司 | Dyeing auxiliary with antistatic performance and preparation method and application thereof |
-
2013
- 2013-09-09 CN CN201310405968.8A patent/CN104420359A/en active Pending
Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107361411A (en) * | 2017-06-28 | 2017-11-21 | 任新庄 | A kind of preparation method of wool flocking thermal underwear face fabric |
| CN107904988A (en) * | 2017-11-17 | 2018-04-13 | 桐乡市濮院毛针织技术服务中心 | Woollen and cashmere printing and dyeing assistant |
| CN112127033A (en) * | 2020-09-24 | 2020-12-25 | 兰州三毛实业有限公司 | Production and processing method of wool containing grass thorn and coarse-cavity structure |
| CN114808487A (en) * | 2021-06-28 | 2022-07-29 | 染格材料科技(上海)有限公司 | Dyeing auxiliary with antistatic performance and preparation method and application thereof |
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Application publication date: 20150318 |