CN101489522B - Improved skin lightening cosmetic composition - Google Patents
Improved skin lightening cosmetic composition Download PDFInfo
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- CN101489522B CN101489522B CN2007800264154A CN200780026415A CN101489522B CN 101489522 B CN101489522 B CN 101489522B CN 2007800264154 A CN2007800264154 A CN 2007800264154A CN 200780026415 A CN200780026415 A CN 200780026415A CN 101489522 B CN101489522 B CN 101489522B
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Abstract
The present inventors have found during their extensive interaction with consumers that very dark skinned consumers have an aspiration to have a lighter skin colour that have a glow and radiant appearance while attaining a yellowish hue on the skin. A skin lightening composition is provided which gives dark skinned consumers the desired glow and hue on their skins while having a composition that is stable over the lifetime of the product. Such a skin lightening composition comprises (i) a skin lightning agent; (ii) 0.01 to 3% pearlescent pigment; (iii) 0.01 to 3% a yellow pigment; and (iv) a cosmetically acceptable base comprising 5 to 25% fatty acid and/or 0.01 to 80% soap.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic composition, be specifically related to effectively to provide the cosmetic composition of the colour of skin that the consumer of dark skin wants very much.
Background technology
Many in the world dark-complexioned people wish to have the more light colour of skin.Past is over 30 years, and the whole world is all in the technology of seeking to satisfy this impression demand of consumer, and many launch with bright skin effect of claiming are arranged.Conventional cosmetic composition is considered to the diffusion of may command melanosome based on employing or suppresses the skin lightening agent of tyrosine.These skin lightening agents comprise nicotiamide, the carboxylic acid as Azelaic Acid and kojic acid, plant extract and hydroquinone etc.As the nicotiamide of vitamin b 3 compound be a kind of in topical application of compositions widely used skin lightening agent.
Cosmetic composition generally contains the darken that keeps colour of skin opposing ultraviolet radiation, and based on the sunscreen of the material that absorbs these line of incidence.Skin lightening agent and sunscreen compound all are organic and inorganic in nature, all are naturally occurring and synthetic the preparations, and they and cosmetic composition combination are to provide synergistic benefits.
The inventor and continues to exchange the back with the consumer of a large amount of this products and finds that the consumer with different brackets colour of skin has the expectation that varies to their the desired skin type that reaches in the further investigation process of this area.Therefore, the inventor has realized the present invention in the work of attempting for different brackets colour of skin customized product.The present invention is especially at the very dark consumer of the colour of skin, their colour of skin in 1 to 10 grade greater than 6 (1 expression is very shallow, and 10 expressions are the darkest).
The inventor with the extensive communication process of these consumers in find that the very dark consumer of the colour of skin all wishes to have the outward appearance more shallow colour of skin of color that keeps the bronze-colored tone of skin simultaneously radiant.
US 2004/0223928 (P﹠G) has described a kind of golden granule and particulate topical composition of silver color of containing, and wherein said composition is in vivo with 2 μ l/cm
2After the local application 15 minutes, when becoming 15 ° to measure with mirror, have less than 200 reflexivity with less than about 4 Δ E value.
Many consumers prefer viscous sense and matt modification that the vanishing cream base material provides.The inventor finds, is difficult in the compositions that base material of cosmetics with high-load fatty acid and/or soap is for example described in the above U.S. Patent application of preparation in the bright skin product of vanishing cream base material.Wherein said pigment and fatty acid/soap interact, thereby obtain low stability.In addition, the prescription and the pigment that contain abundant fatty acid interact, and have changed the optical effect of expectation, thereby require to select meticulously the skin effects of combination to obtain expecting of color pigment and pearlescent pigment.The inventor gives before the present invention of the attracting skin of skin degree radiant and bronze-colored tone simultaneously in the bright skin level that obtains offering the very black consumer's expectation of consumer, particularly skin, and a great selection of probability of selecting is estimated.The inventor also guarantees suitably to be formulated as the composition of realizing that the present invention added, to minimize and for example interaction between the organic sunscreen agent of other possible composition of this type of prescription.
Therefore an object of the present invention is to provide the skin Lightening and the tone that give the expectation of dark colour of skin consumer, have the cosmetic composition of composition stable in the life-span of product simultaneously.
Another object of the present invention provides except bright skin, brilliant white, skin color and product stability that expectation is provided, also guarantees the cosmetic composition of the efficient of the sunscreen that exists in the compositions.
Summary of the invention
The invention provides cosmetic composition, it comprises:
(i) skin lightening agent;
(ii) 0.01～3% pearlescent pigment;
(iii) 0.01～3% yellow uitramarine; With
The acceptable base material of cosmetics that (iv) comprises 5～25% fatty acids and/or 0.01～80% soap.
Detailed Description Of The Invention
The present invention relates to comprise the cosmetic composition of yellow uitramarine.The content of this yellow uitramarine generally is enough to provide visually appreciable yellow for compositions.
In addition, preferably this yellow hue can also be seen on skin after compositions is administered on the skin.
For have based on 10 grades (1 for the colour of skin very shallow, 10 for the colour of skin the darkest) the very dark consumer of the colour of skin of colour of skin grades greater than 6 this be particularly preferred.The content of yellow uitramarine is preferably 0.05～2.3wt% of compositions.Yellow uitramarine is preferably metal-oxide.Suitable metal-oxide comprises titanium dioxide, ferrum oxide or Tin monoxide.Suitable nonmetal oxide is a silicon dioxide, and selectively yellow uitramarine has organic origin.Preferred metal-oxide is a ferrum oxide.Ferrum oxide is preferred suitably to apply or coated to minimize the interaction with other composition of compositions.When for example having the organic sunscreen agent of the PAROSOL 1789 of selling with Parsol 1789 (Givaudan) in the prescription, it is with the ferrum oxide interaction and produce undesirable redness.In order to minimize this interaction, metal oxide particle is used as Muscovitum, siloxanes, for example methylhydrogenpolysi,oxane, the more preferably coated materials of siloxanes.The yellow uitramarine that is purchased in can be used for filling a prescription comprises that the yellow LLXLO of S12 is (from Daito Kasei Kogyo Company, Japan), bronze 43737 (from Sudarshan Chemicals, India), tartrazines (from Davarson, India) or Rhizoma Curcumae Longae extract.
Compositions of the present invention comprises pearlescent pigment.Can be used for pearlescent pigment of the present invention and comprise the base material with laminated structure, for example Muscovitum.Pearlescent pigment preferably applies one or more other coating.Suitable coating is the metal-oxide of titanium dioxide, ferrum oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide for example.Muscovitum is most preferred base material, and it is the laminar transparent mineral matter from underground mining.It can be translucent and glittering or lacklustre fully, color from the Lycoperdon polymorphum Vitt to the blueness to green.Often it is handled, to give bright color effect with ferrum oxide.Muscovitum has, and transparent, translucent and skin hugs (skin-hugging) effect, when it is used for dermal compositions, for example makes the flash of light of natural skin tone when vanishing cream, facial foundation or eye shadow cream.Muscovitum makes the incident illumination on the skin reflect from face, produces more smooth, more soft and brighter skin color illusion.The preferred pearlescent pigment of the present invention is the Muscovitum that is coated in titanium dioxide or ferrum oxide, most preferably the Muscovitum of while titanium dioxide coating and iron oxide red.Commercially available pearlescent pigment comprises Colorona bright gold (from Merck) or Cloissone gold (Engelhard Corporation) according to the present invention.The content of pearlescent pigment is 0.1～1wt% of compositions more preferably.
Carry the cosmetic composition of the different agent that are benefited to use different acceptable emulsification systems of cosmetics and excipient preparation.For the present invention, the acceptable base material of cosmetics comprises 5～25% fatty acids or 0.1～80% soap.The mixture of fatty acid and soap also is suitable, for example gives the vanishing cream base material of the pleasing no light perception of skin.The preferred especially C of the present invention
12-C
20Fatty acid, more preferably C
14-C
18Fatty acid.Most preferred fatty acid is a stearic acid.The content of fatty acid 5～20wt% of compositions more preferably in the compositions.Soap in the vanishing cream base material comprises the alkali metal salt of fatty acid, as sodium or potassium salt, most preferably potassium stearate.The content of soap is generally 0.1～10wt% of compositions, more preferably 0.1～3wt% in the vanishing cream base material.Vanishing cream base material in the cosmetic composition is generally by getting the total fatty material of desired amt, and is mixed with the potassium hydroxide of desired amt.Soap during mixing forms usually on the spot.
As selection, cosmetic composition is a wash off product, for example contains the soap of the salt of 5～80% fatty acids.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention contains skin lightening agent.Skin lightening agent is preferably from one or more vitamin b 3 compound or derivatives thereofs; nicotinic acid for example; nicotinic acid or nicotiamide or other known skin lightening agent; adapalene (adapalene) for example; Aloe extract; DL-Lactic acid ammonium salt.; the anethole derivant; Fructus Mali pumilae extract; arbutin; Azelaic Acid; kojic acid; bamboo extractive; Arctostaphylos ura-ursi extract; Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) (bletillatuber); Radix Bupleuri extract; the burnet plant extract; Butylated hydroxyanisole; butylated hydroxytoluene; citrate; Rhizoma Chuanxiong; Radix Angelicae Sinensis; deoxyarbutin; 1; the 3-diphenyl propane derivative; 2; 5-resorcylic acid and derivant thereof; 2-(4-acetate phenyl)-1; 3-dithiane (dithane); 2-(4-hydroxy phenyl)-1; the 3-dithiane; ellagic acid; seven folic alcohol (escinol); the estragole derivant; Fadeout (Pentapharm); Radix Saposhnikoviae; Fructus Foeniculi extract; the Ganoderma extract; Rhizoma Ligustici; GatulineWhitening (Gattlefosse); gentisic acid (genistic acid) and derivant thereof; glabridin (glabridin) and derivant thereof; glucopyranosyl-1-acid ascorbyl ester; gluconic acid; glycolic; green tea extract; 4-hydroxy-5-methyl base-3[2H]-furanone; hydroquinone; 4-BHA and derivant thereof; the 4-hydroxybenzoic acid derivative; Hydroxycaprylic acid; the inositol acid ascorbyl ester; citron extract; linoleic acid; the ascorbyl magnesium phosphate; Melawhite (Pentapharm); mulberry extract; the mulberry root extract; the 5-MEXORYL SAM; parsley extract; Phellinus igniarius (L. ex Fr.) Quel. (phellinus linteus) extract; burnt lattice amphyl; 2; the 4-resorcinol derivant; 3; the 5-resorcinol derivatives; the Flos Rosae Rugosae juice extract; salicylic acid; the Song-Yi extract; 3; 4; 5-trihydroxy benzyl derivative; tranexamic acid (tranexamic acid); vitamin B6 for example; vitamin B 12; vitamin C; the vitamin of vitamin A; dicarboxylic acids; resorcinol derivatives; the extract of Rubia and mountain vitriol platymiscium; the for example hydroxy carboxylic acid of lactic acid and salt thereof; for example sodium lactate, and their mixture.The vitamin b 3 compound or derivatives thereof, for example nicotinic acid, nicotinic acid or nicotiamide are preferred skin lightening agent, most preferably nicotiamide according to the present invention.When adopting nicotiamide, its content is preferably 0.1～10wt% of compositions, more preferably 0.2～5wt%.
Cosmetic composition preferably also contains one or more UV sunscreen.The UV sunscreen can be inorganic or organic.
Various organic sunscreen agent all are fit to and of the present invention must being used in combination by composition.Suitable UV-A/UV-B sunscreen comprises 2-hydroxyl-4-methoxy benzophenone, the octyldimethyl para-amino benzoic acid, two galloyl trioleates, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone, ethyl-4-(two (hydroxypropyl)) Aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano group-3,3-diphenylacrylate ester, the 2-Ethylhexyl salicylate, para-amino benzoic acid glyceride, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, methyl anthranilic acid ester, ESCAROL 507 or Aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-ESCAROL 507 ester, 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2-(to dimethylaminophenyl)-5-sulfonic acid benzo
Azoles acid, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamic acid ester, PAROSOL 1789,2-hydroxyl-4-methoxy benzophenone, octyldimethyl para-amino benzoic acid, and composition thereof.Only organic sunscreen agent is 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamic acid ester and PAROSOL 1789.
In can be used for compositions of the present invention, can adopt the sunscreen of safety and effective dose.That said composition preferably comprises is about 0.1%～and about 10%, 0.1%～about 5% sunscreen more preferably from about.
Available inorganic sunscreen also is preferred for the present invention.They comprise zinc oxide for example, ferrum oxide, such as the silicon dioxide of fumed silica, and titanium dioxide.
Two kinds of forms, promptly the superfine titanic oxide of any form of water dispersible titanium dioxide and oil-dispersing property titanium dioxide is particularly suitable for the present invention.Water dispersible titanium dioxide is superfine titanic oxide, and its granule is non-coating, or is coated with the material of giving the granule hydrophilic surface property.The example of this material comprises aluminium oxide and aluminium silicate.
Oil-dispersing property titanium dioxide is superfine titanic oxide, and its particle performance goes out hydrophobic surface property, can be coated with the metallic soap such as aluminium stearate, Aluminum trilaurate or zinc stearate for this reason, or be coated with organosilicone compounds.
" superfine titanic oxide " refers to particle mean size less than 100nm, preferred 70nm or following, more preferably 10～40nm, the most preferably titanium dioxide granule of 15～25nm.
By the mixture of local application water dispersible superfine titanic oxide on skin and oil-dispersing property superfine titanic oxide, can realize the collaborative adverse effect that protection skin is avoided UV-A and UV-B ray that improves.
Superfine titanic oxide is preferred inorganic sunscreen according to the present invention.According to the sunscreen total amount of preferably mixing in the compositions of the present invention is 0.1～5wt% of compositions.
Also can comprise other diluent according to compositions of the present invention.Diluent plays the effect of the dispersant or the carrier of other material that exists in the compositions, when being applied on the skin with convenient compositions, promotes the distribution of these materials.
Diluent beyond dewatering can comprise liquid or solid emollient, solvent, wetting agent, thickening agent and end powder.The excipient of every kind of these types can use separately or use as the mixture of one or more excipient, and the example is as follows:
Emollient comprises stearyl alcohol; one ricinoleic acid glyceride; ermine oil; spermol; the isostearic acid isopropyl ester; stearic acid; the Palmic acid isobutyl ester; the different cetyl ester of stearic acid; oleyl alcohol; isopropyl laurate; lauric acid hexyl ester; decyl oleate; octadecane-2-alcohol; different spermol; EICOSANOL behenyl alcohol; Palmic acid cetyl ester; silicone oil such as dimethyl polysiloxane; n-butyl sebacate; isopropyl myristate; isopropyl palmitate; isopropyl stearate; butyl stearate; Polyethylene Glycol; 2,2'-ethylenedioxybis(ethanol).; lanoline; cocoa butter; Semen Maydis oil; Oleum Gossypii semen; olive oil; palm-kernel oil; Oleum Brassicae campestris; safflower oil; Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae oil; soybean oil; Oleum Helianthi; American Avocado Tree oil; sesame seed oil; Oleum Cocois; Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen; Oleum Ricini; Acetylated lanolin alcohols.; vaseline; mineral oil; butyl myristate; isostearic acid; Palmic acid; the linoleic acid isopropyl ester; Lauryl lactate; lactic acid meat myristyl ester; decyl oleate and myristic acid myristyl ester.
Solvent comprises ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, acetone, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, DEGMBE and carbitol.
End powder comprises Chalk, Talcum, bleaching earth, Kaolin, starch, natural gum, colloidal silica sodium polyacrylate, tetraalkyl and/or trialkyl aryl terre verte, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay clay, aluminium hydrosilicate, fumed silica, CVP Carbopol ETD2050, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose and monostearate glycol ester.
The acceptable base material of cosmetics is generally 10～99.9wt% of compositions, preferred 50～99wt%, and can under the situation that does not have other cosmetics additive, form the remainder of compositions.
Compositions of the present invention can comprise other optional components on a large scale." skincare product industry various indefiniteness cosmetic compositions and the ingredient commonly used that is applicable in the present composition described in 1992 (the application is in full with reference to quoting) for CTFA cosmetic composition handbook, second edition.Example comprises: antioxidant, binding agent, bio-additive, buffer agent, coloring agent, thickening agent, polymer, astringent, spice, wetting agent, opacifier, conditioner, remover, pH regulator agent, antiseptic, natural extract, quintessence oil, skin sensitivity agent (sensate), skin emollient and skin healing agent.
Compositions is with any known form, more preferably with cream or the preparation of dew form.The present invention will further describe by following indefiniteness embodiment.
Embodiment
The comparative example A
Use the preparation of vanishing cream base material to have the conventional cosmetic composition of composition shown in the table 1.
Comparative Examples B
Prepare the not cosmetic composition of fatty acids (seeing Table 1).
Embodiment 1-3
Preparation contains the cosmetic composition (seeing Table 1) of pearlescent pigment and yellow uitramarine according to the present invention in the vanishing cream base material.
Use the compositions of comparative example A and B and embodiment 1 to 3 by about 5 to 32 consumers that the colour of skin is very dark.Agreement relates to the sample of smearing ormal weight at them on the face, every day twice, smears altogether 7 days.Require consumer to estimate product (10 are liked most) during off-test based on the glossy impression of face is divided into 1 to 10 grade.Average hobby mark is shown in table 1.
Table 1: constituent content in the prescription (percetage by weight)
Accessory constituent: comprise vitamin, chelating agen, emollient, spice and other useful reagent.
Data show in the table 1, compare with conventional sample, and consumer is liked overwhelmingly according to compositions of the present invention.
The dependency between data and the Instrumental Analysis is experienced by consumer
For the compositions of comparative example A and embodiment 1, the volunteer is provided skin whiteness and yellow light sense mark by extra demand, and record is measured with the Minolta tintometer simultaneously as consumer's hobby mark.Data are shown in table 2.According to the regulation of International Commission on Illumination (CIE), colour space L
*=black in white, a
*=green to red and b
*=blue to yellow expression.These devices are based on the measurement to the contributive chromophore content as melanin, hemoglobin and deposited pigments etc. of the colour of skin.Single typology angle (ITA °) is [Atan ((L
*-50)/b
*)] 180/, based on the L that measures with the Minolta tintometer
*And b
*Value is calculated.When ITA ° of value is big (corresponding to the best of breed of whiteness and yellowness), the volunteer can experience whiteness and the yellow light that skin has bigger expectation equally.
Table 2
| The comparative example A | Embodiment 1 | |
| Consumer's hobby mark | 6.0 | 7.87 |
| ITA° | 8.0 | 12.88 |
Data show shown in the table 2, and when adopting according to compositions of the present invention, the volunteer has tangible whiteness and yellow light sense, and this is relevant with ITA ° of data that adopt the Minolta tintometer to obtain.
Embodiment 4 and 5
Preparation contains the other cosmetic composition (seeing Table 2) of pearlescent pigment and yellow uitramarine according to the present invention in the vanishing cream base material.
Table 3: constituent content in the prescription (percetage by weight)
Value in the table 3 that employing Minolta tintometer obtains shows that only the prescription of niacinamide-containing (comparative example A) has very high L
*Value, i.e. whitness index, but have very low and unacceptable b
*Value, i.e. yellowness index.
On the other hand, the compositions (embodiment 1,4 and 5) in the scope of the invention has ideal L
*And b
*The value balance.
Claims (6)
1. cosmetic composition comprises:
(i) skin lightening agent;
The (ii) pearlescent pigment of 0.1～1wt%, it is the Muscovitum that is applied by the coating that is selected from titanium dioxide, ferrum oxide or chromium oxide;
The (iii) yellow uitramarine of 0.05～2.3wt%, it is selected from titanium dioxide, ferrum oxide or Tin monoxide; With
Comprise the acceptable base material of cosmetics of the soap of the fatty acid of 5～20wt% and 0.1～10wt%, it is the vanishing cream base material.
2. the cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein skin lightening agent is a nicotiamide.
3. the cosmetic composition of claim 2, wherein the amount of nicotiamide is 0.1～10wt% of compositions.
4. claim 1 or 2 cosmetic composition, wherein the vanishing cream base material comprises the soap of 0.01～3wt%.
5. claim 1 or 2 cosmetic composition, it comprises one or more organic uv filters.
6. the cosmetic composition of claim 5, wherein said one or more organic uv filters are selected from 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamic acid ester or PAROSOL 1789.
Applications Claiming Priority (5)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| IN1109/MUM/2006 | 2006-07-13 | ||
| IN1109MU2006 | 2006-07-13 | ||
| EP06125447 | 2006-12-05 | ||
| EP06125447.0 | 2006-12-05 | ||
| PCT/EP2007/056691 WO2008006739A1 (en) | 2006-07-13 | 2007-07-03 | Improved skin lightening cosmetic composition |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN101489522A CN101489522A (en) | 2009-07-22 |
| CN101489522B true CN101489522B (en) | 2011-06-08 |
Family
ID=40891984
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN2007800264154A Expired - Fee Related CN101489522B (en) | 2006-07-13 | 2007-07-03 | Improved skin lightening cosmetic composition |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN101489522B (en) |
| ZA (1) | ZA200900158B (en) |
Families Citing this family (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN108977290A (en) * | 2017-06-01 | 2018-12-11 | 薛建萍 | A kind of handmade soap of niacinamide-containing and preparation method thereof |
Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1292492A (en) * | 1999-10-01 | 2001-04-25 | 资生堂股份有限公司 | Method for selecting cosmetics |
| EP1433462A1 (en) * | 2002-12-24 | 2004-06-30 | L'oreal | Make-up compositions for dark skin types |
| US20040223928A1 (en) * | 2003-05-08 | 2004-11-11 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Cosmetic compositions for skin |
| US20050079190A1 (en) * | 2003-10-09 | 2005-04-14 | Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Skin radiance cosmetic compositions |
| CN1678280A (en) * | 2002-07-19 | 2005-10-05 | 雅芳产品公司 | Colored cosmetic compositions with pearlescent and color pigment blends |
-
2007
- 2007-07-03 CN CN2007800264154A patent/CN101489522B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2007-07-03 ZA ZA200900158A patent/ZA200900158B/en unknown
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1292492A (en) * | 1999-10-01 | 2001-04-25 | 资生堂股份有限公司 | Method for selecting cosmetics |
| CN1678280A (en) * | 2002-07-19 | 2005-10-05 | 雅芳产品公司 | Colored cosmetic compositions with pearlescent and color pigment blends |
| EP1433462A1 (en) * | 2002-12-24 | 2004-06-30 | L'oreal | Make-up compositions for dark skin types |
| US20040223928A1 (en) * | 2003-05-08 | 2004-11-11 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Cosmetic compositions for skin |
| US20050079190A1 (en) * | 2003-10-09 | 2005-04-14 | Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Skin radiance cosmetic compositions |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN101489522A (en) | 2009-07-22 |
| ZA200900158B (en) | 2010-05-26 |
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Effective date of registration: 20210831 Address after: Rotterdam Patentee after: Unilever Intellectual Property Holdings Ltd. Address before: Rotterdam Patentee before: Unilever Nederland B.V. |
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Granted publication date: 20110608 |