CN101435127A

CN101435127A - Method for weaving pile face jean

Info

Publication number: CN101435127A
Application number: CNA200810243859XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 顾钰良; 陈榕; 周卫东; 刘辉; 王勇平
Original assignee: JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP)
Current assignee: JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP)
Priority date: 2008-12-16
Filing date: 2008-12-16
Publication date: 2009-05-20

Abstract

The invention discloses a weaving method of a suede denim, which comprises the following steps of: step one: yarn selection: selecting pure cotton yarn after dyeing as warp yarn, selecting raw white cotton yarn as weft yarn and suede yarn, dividing the warp yarn into an upper layer of warp yarn and a lower layer of warp yarn, and dividing the weft yarn into an upper layer of weft yarn and a lower layer of weft yarn; step two: weaving: weaving in right twill-weave with three at top and one at bottom by a twin-rapier loom, interweaving the upper layer of denim by the upper layer of warp yarn and the upper layer of weft yarn, and interweaving the lower layer of denim by the lower layer of warp yarn and the lower layer of weft yarn, and connecting the upper layer of denim and the lower layer of denim by the suede yarn; step three: suede yarn cutting: cutting the suede yarn by a velvet knife, and forming an upper single-side suede denim and a lower single-side suede denim; step four: after finishing: carrying out shearing, stentering and shaping, preshrinking, and after finishing to the suede denims; and step five: surface treatment: carrying out surface treatment to the suede denims by using a conventional process, or making the suede denims after the after finishing into clothing and then carrying out the surface treatment by using the conventional process. The woven suede denim has soft and comfortable handfeel and good warmth retention effect.

Description

The weaving method of pile face jean

Technical field:

The present invention relates to a kind of weaving method of denim, particularly the weaving method of the woven denim of matte.

Background technology:

Denim is the big class textile product of a class that domestic and international textile enterprise produces, and jeans are applicable to whole world man, woman, old, particularly youth of both sexes leisure dress of children.China is denim big producing country, and annual production is about 3,000,000,000 square metres.Denim has woven and knitting two big verieties, and great majority are woven denims.Woven denim with textile dyed yarn make warp thread, the white yarn of true qualities is made weft yarn and is weaved with Rapier looms.Fabric was made end products such as ready-made clothes, trousers, skirt after both can having passed through back arrangement such as stone mill, washing, sand washing behind the following machine, carried out back arrangements such as stone mill, washing, sand washing with the form of ready-made clothes after also can making jeans earlier.Jeans have wear next to the skin comfortable, random, rough bold and unconstrained, be rich in the lines pretty figure, be very good easy suit, to be fit to the crowd very extensive.But because the obverse and reverse of common denim all is smooth smooth, thermal property is not ideal.

Summary of the invention:

The object of the present invention is to provide the weaving method of the good pile face jean of a kind of thermal property.

The first step: select yarn, the Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production of choosing process dyeing is chosen the raw white cotton yarn as weft yarn and suede yarn as warp thread, and warp thread is divided into top line and lower layer warp yarns, and weft yarn is divided into upper layer weft yarns and lower floor's weft yarn;

Second step: weave, weave with once twill left to right tissue on three by double rapier machine, top line and upper layer weft yarns are woven into the upper strata denim, lower layer warp yarns and lower floor's weft yarn are woven into lower floor's denim, the upper strata denim is linked to each other by the suede yarn with the lower floor denim;

The 3rd step: velvet-pile yarn, the suede yarn that will be connected upper strata denim and lower floor's denim by loop cutter cuts off, and forms two width of cloth single face napping denims up and down;

The 4th step: the back arrangement, pile face jean is carried out putting in order after cropping, stentering forming, the preshrunk;

The 5th step: surface treatment, with common process pile face jean is carried out surface treatment, or will after the pile face jean of arrangement is later made ready-made clothes, carry out surface treatment with common process again.

Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production as warp thread is open-end spinning or ring spinning, and the yarn count scope is 6S--21S, and the color of warp thread is indigo, black, blackish green, coffee-like, rubine look.

Weft yarn is with white open-end spinning or RING SPINNING Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production, and the yarn count scope is between 6S--21S.

Grain cross contains the spandex silk of 15--100D, makes fabric have certain elasticity.

The suede yarn is the raw white Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production, and the yarn count scope is 10S--32S.

Distance between upper strata denim and the lower floor's denim is 8--20mm.

Warp count is a per inch 50--150 root, and weft count is a per inch 30--70 root, and the weight of fabric per square inch is the 5--20 ounce.

The front of the pile face jean that the present invention was made into, the back side all are to be raw material with Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production, and is soft, comfortable, good warmth retention effect, and the denim garment of making has comfortable and easy to wear, soft warming, flexible, dimensional stability and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY are good.

The specific embodiment:

Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram of weaving of the embodiment of the invention;

Fig. 2 is the organization chart of the embodiment of the invention.

Among Fig. 1: the 1----warp shaft; The 2----warp shaft; 3----suede yarn axle; The 4----ground heddle; The 5----ground heddle; 6----suede is combined; The 7----reed; 8----upper strata denim; 9----lower floor denim; The 10----loop cutter; The 11----top line; The 12----lower layer warp yarns; 13----suede yarn; The 14----upper layer weft yarns; 15----lower floor weft yarn.

----expression top line floating-point among Fig. 2: ■; *----expression lower layer warp yarns is on lower floor's weft yarn; ▲----expression suede is through on upper layer weft yarns;----expression suede is through on lower floor's weft yarn.

Below embodiments of the invention are described in detail:

The first step: select yarn, top line 11, lower layer warp yarns 12 adopt the open-end spinning of 10S white, dye indigo dyed yarn through sizing-dyeing machine, make warp shaft 1 and 2 through beam warper, upper layer weft yarns 14, lower floor's weft yarn 15 adopt the open-end spinning of 12S white, suede yarn 13 adopts 12S raw white Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production, and suede yarn 13 is made suede yarn axle 3 through beam warper.

Second step: weave, the double rapier machine that adopts Belgian VAN DE WIELE company to produce is weaved, weave with once twill left to right tissue on three, top line 11 and lower layer warp yarns 12 are respectively by ground heddle 4 and 5, suede yarn 13 combines 6 by suede, with upper layer weft yarns 14 and lower floor's weft yarn 15 on reed 7 places carry out, under interweave, top line 11 is woven into upper strata denim 8 with upper layer weft yarns 14, lower layer warp yarns 12 and lower floor's weft yarn 15 are woven into lower floor's denim 9, upper strata denim 8 and lower floor denim 9 are linked to each other by suede yarn 13, distance between upper strata denim 8 and the lower floor's denim 9 is 12mm, warp count is 72 of per inch, weft count is 44 of per inch, 10.5 ounces of the weight of fabric per square inch.The broadwise of upper strata denim 8, lower floor's denim 9 contains the spandex silk of 20D, makes fabric have certain elasticity, and the spandex silk of the broadwise density of arranging is: spandex silk of per 10 weft yarns row.The broadwise elastic elongation is 6%.The size of elastic elongation depends on the tissue design of fabric, organizes tightness littler, and elasticity is bigger, otherwise, to organize under the fixing condition of tightness at warp thread, the tightness of weft yarn is bigger, then elasticity is littler, and the broadwise tightness acquires a certain degree, even flexible situation can occur losing.

The 3rd step: velvet-pile yarn, the suede yarn 13 that will be connected upper strata denim 8 and lower floor's denim 9 by loop cutter 10 cuts off, and forms matte upper strata denim 8 and lower floor's denim 9, height of naps 4mm.

The 4th step: the back arrangement, pile face jean is carried out putting in order after cropping, stentering forming, the preshrunk.The outstanding problem of elastic force cowboy finished fabric is that the broadwise shrinkage is big, is generally more than 10%, and is indivedual even up to more than 20%.Cloth width of cloth instability is brought difficulty to garment production, one of method that solves is not make elastic elongation excessive when product design, present embodiment chooses 10%, promptly keep certain and organize tightness through broadwise, and when shrunk finish, take suitably to add the method for hightension, make the cloth width of cloth that bigger contraction be arranged, thereby obtain the lower residual shrinkage of finished fabric broadwise; Another solution is that the elastic force cowboy carries out the HEAT SETTING processing after shrunk finish, can obtain the cloth width of cloth than uniformity like this, reaches stable and lower broadwise shrinkage, satisfies the requirement of clothes processing.Present embodiment keeps certain tightness through broadwise when design, and adopts stentering forming, preshrunk postprocessing working procedures, makes fabric have DIMENSIONAL STABILITY and low broadwise washing shrinkage preferably.

The 5th step: surface treatment, with the carry out surface treatment of common process, or will after making ready-made clothes, the single face napping denim of arrangement later carry out surface treatment with common process again to pile face jean.

Claims

1, the weaving method of pile face jean is characterized in that the first step: select yarn, the Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production of choosing process dyeing is chosen the raw white cotton yarn as weft yarn and suede yarn as warp thread, and warp thread is divided into top line and lower layer warp yarns, and weft yarn is divided into upper layer weft yarns and lower floor's weft yarn; Second step: weave, weave with once twill left to right tissue on three by double rapier machine, top line and upper layer weft yarns are woven into the upper strata denim, lower layer warp yarns and lower floor's weft yarn are woven into lower floor's denim, the upper strata denim is linked to each other by the suede yarn with the lower floor denim; The 3rd step: velvet-pile yarn, the suede yarn that will be connected upper strata denim and lower floor's denim by loop cutter cuts off, and forms two width of cloth single face napping denims up and down; The 4th step: the back arrangement, pile face jean is carried out putting in order after cropping, stentering forming, the preshrunk; The 5th step: surface treatment, with the carry out surface treatment of common process, or will after making ready-made clothes, the pile face jean of arrangement later carry out surface treatment with common process again to pile face jean.

2, the weaving method of pile face jean according to claim 1 is characterized in that the Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production as warp thread is open-end spinning or ring spinning, and the yarn count scope is 6S--21S, and the color of warp thread is indigo, black, blackish green, coffee-like, rubine look.

3, the weaving method of pile face jean according to claim 2 is characterized in that weft yarn with white open-end spinning or RING SPINNING Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production, and the yarn count scope is between 6S--21S.

4, the weaving method of pile face jean according to claim 3 is characterized in that the suede yarn is the raw white Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production, and the yarn count scope is 10S--32S.

5, the weaving method of pile face jean according to claim 4 is characterized in that the distance between upper strata denim and the lower floor's denim is 8--20mm.

6, the weaving method of pile face jean according to claim 5 is characterized in that warp count at per inch 50--150 root, and weft count is at per inch 30--70 root, and the weight of fabric per square inch is at the 5--20 ounce.

7,, it is characterized in that grain cross contains the spandex silk of 15--100D according to the weaving method of claim 1 or 6 described pile face jeans.