Background technology
Digit printing is that pattern design is arrived computer by the defeated people of digital form, by computer stamp color separation scanning system (CAD) editing and processing, by the little piezoelectric type ink nozzle of computer control special-purpose dye liquor is directly injected on the textiles again, forms required pattern.Applying of digit printing technology will be to the development generation significant impact of 21 century China's textile industry.The digit printing technology was used more and more widely in recent years in the world, this is the product that computer technology combines with dyeing, not only can reach the effect of traditional stamp, and has a special effect that traditional stamp can not be compared, changed traditional stamp theory fully, the New Times of having opened up stamp.
The digit printing technology is brought the technological revolution of textile printing and dyeing industry, and it makes personalization, small lot, and the market demand of fast response obtains real embodiment.Its basic principle is identical with ink-jet printer.The appearance of digit printing will be satisfied people's pursuing individuality demand to greatest extent, and the design sample manuscript can be revised arbitrarily on computers, fully shows dressmakers' design concept.Effect on the computer screen is exactly the effect of back lining pattern of being shaped, and just direct spray printing behind the customer satisfaction is accomplished Site Design, field fabrication, makes clothes really realize personalization.Break away from the process of traditional stamp color separation, plate-making, system net simultaneously, thereby shortened the production cycle greatly.Real small lot, many kinds, the rapid-action production process of realizing.
Digit printing will directly promote the development of " green textiles " and " green manufacturing ".By computer control spray printing as required, dye liquor is contained in directly need based jet does not produce noise in the special box in the spray printing process on fabric, not water and mill base, the dye liquor of having stopped to size mixing a printing machine flushing and having discharged, it is pollution-free to reach the stamp process, has realized the pollution-free green production process.Material consumptions such as film, silk screen have also been saved.Floor space also has only 1/tens of traditional stamp mode, can place working environment.Both alleviate business burden, realized environmental protection requirement again.
Digit printing clear picture, rich color, traditional stamp print more than 10 chromatographys just very difficult, and the digit printing process can realize 1,670 ten thousand kinds of colors by computer control, have broken through the chromatography restriction of traditional stamp.Particularly in the printing of high-precision patterns such as color gradient, moire, digit printing has more incomparable advantage technically, the pattern of tradition stamp often is subjected to the restriction of " spending back " length, and there is not the notion of " spending back " in the technical process of digit printing, greatly expand the design space of textiles, promoted the class of product.
Because the digit printing technology has very vast potential for future development, Europe, the United States and countries in Asia all quite pay attention to this, have carried out throwing a large amount of early stages the people, and the digital jet printing of having set up that has is studied the demonstration base, and production quantity increases progressively year by year fast.Japan begins to digit printing aspect development from the eighties, to today the digit printing output accounted for 30% of its total growth, top-quality product rate is greatly improved, the stamp kind comprises cotton, hair, chemical fibre; That fabric comprises is knitting, tatting, nap fabric, dermatine and nonwoven fabric etc.Cotton still is topmost stamp base fabric, secondly is the blending cotton, viscose, chemical fibre; From the whole world, other base fabric such as wool, polyamide, polypropylene, polyoxygenated third, silk only account for few proportion.Most stamps are shuttle-woven fabrics, secondly are knit fabric, non-woven lining and yarn, also do not see the report of the digit printing of cashmere produce up to now.
China just is cashmere fibres manufacture of materials big country, and ten thousand tons of goat cashmere 1.2-1.3 are produced in the whole world per year, and China accounts for 80% of world's goat cashmere output, and the west area accounts for more than 70% of the total velour yield of China.Cashmere fibres is a kind of natural rare textile material, and its exclusive softness, sliding glutinous, good characteristics such as gloss is soft, good springiness are that other any textile fiber materials do not possess, and are described as " soft gold ".From fiber quality, the goat cashmere performance optimal of China, the KVSS woolenless cloth that the Erdos produces is described as " cno.1 woolenless cloth ", " fiber diamond " by international counterparts.The quality heterosis of rich in natural resources advantage, fibrous material, new and high technology promote the great development space of conventional industries, have determined China to possess and have developed into the primary condition of world cashmere produce power.
From present digit printing, mainly based on guide belt cloth stamp, and cashmere produce is difficult to accurately to realize location fixed point stamp, simultaneously by stamp reach imitative jacquard weave, imitative embroidery effect is just more difficult.Its main cause is: digit printing equipment does not detect the smooth scanner of fabric, holds up because of fine hair during printing, the as easy as rolling off a log situation that shower nozzle obstruction or dye discoloration fabric occur.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is: the feature at cashmere produce provides a kind of can effectively avoiding to hold up the irregular phenomenon of the color spray that causes spray nozzle clogging to cause, the accurate location fixed point stamp of realizing because of fine hair, reach the digit printing processing method of cashmere produce that dyestuff does not pollute fabric, adopt this method can satisfy cashmere produce personalization, variation, the superior market demand, for the consumer provides broad selection space more, improve value-added content of product and selling market greatly, product specification and grade are greatly improved.
The objective of the invention is to realize in the following manner:
Method of the present invention comprises: scanning clothing base makes mould, pattern processing, color calibration, utilize computer software with institute's impression case simulation be positioned over mould requirement position, by mould paving clothing base, counter-scanning by the clothing base of mould shop card, utilize computer software to check stamp position, digital spray printing, the oven dry of institute's impression shape on the clothing base to evaporate before the clothing base, evaporate, washing, oven dry, ready-made clothes, back arrangement, the present invention had increased pre-treatment process before scanning clothing base making mould;
(1) pre-treatment process
1) prepare a kind of pretreatment liquid, by weight, its prescription is: bonding agent 2-5%, stamp oil 2-3%, brightening agent 2-3%, thickener 55-60%, tartaric acid 3%, urea 5%, surplus is a water.
In above-mentioned prescription, bonding agent, stamp oil, brightening agent, thickener are textile industry auxiliary agent commonly used, and wherein: bonding agent belongs to methyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, acrylamide ternary polymerization stable emulsion; Stamp oil belongs to anionic property, is the stamp oil of base stock with the plant; Thickener is half dew sugar, mannose ether compound; Brightening agent belongs to dihydroxymethyl ethylene urea, sodium dithionite type.
2) the clothing base of cashmere produce is being cleaned, after whole the scalding, is carrying out the stamp pre-treatment:
Pre-treatment adopts the operation of computer control screen frame lifting and little electric car to realize, during processing, screen frame descends, press the fabric on the platform version, pretreatment liquid is injected the screen frame edge, on screen frame, scrape pretreatment liquid with scraper, scrape finish after, screen frame rises, and little electric car moves predetermined distance and enters next circulation, and element mesh is confined position and scraper pressure, scraper number of times, utilization is all accurately controlled, stores, regulated and repeated to each parameter of scraper stroke by computer.
By this kind pre-treating method, can make pretreatment liquid be adsorbed on the surface of fabric equably, thereby dyestuff is dyed on evenly.
The effect of above-mentioned pre-treatment process is:
1. keep the smooth technology of fabric
Adopt unique pre-treatment process, also promptly in pretreatment liquid, add a kind of composite bonding agent (methyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, acrylamide ternary polymerization stable emulsion) and guarantee that fabric is after pre-treatment, surface fine hair is close to fabric, holding up because of fine hair when effectively having avoided digital spray printing causes liquid dyes to pollute fabric, effectively avoided in addition holding up the irregular phenomenon of the color spray that causes spray nozzle clogging to cause, thereby really broken through the bottleneck that the digit printing technology can't be met the tendency on big velour because of fine hair; Guaranteed that cashmere produce after the pre-treatment of uniqueness, has increased the conformality of fabric, thereby created necessary condition on cashmere produce, truly now imitating " needle cycle stamp "; Guaranteed to dry the back without any contamination property before liquid dyes do not evaporate on cashmere produce, thereby realized the operability of big production.
2. improve the tinctorial yield of dyestuff
In the pretreatment liquid prescription, add stamp oil and (belong to anionic property, with the plant is base stock) after, dye-uptake, the COLOR FASTNESS of dyestuff are improved significantly, and the K/S value 15 of liquid dyes on cashmere produce increases to 18, the tinctorial yield that also is fabric increases, and black is the most directly perceived.
3. prevent the dyestuff imbibition, obtain bright-coloured and clear pattern
Screened a kind of thickener that prevents imbibition at the characteristic of goat cashmere, and permeability has been done test.
The performance of table 1 thickener
Main component | Ionic | The pH value | Outward appearance |
Half reveals sugar, mannose ether compound | Nonionic | 7.5-8.5 | Yellow powder |
The printing characteristic of former paste on cashmere product that table 2 ratio is different
Project | Slubbing is knitting | Spinning knitting | Slubbing is woven | Spinning woven |
50% | Permeability % | 11.73 | 23.97 | 4.49 | 84.00 |
55% | Permeability % | 10.70 | 22.22 | 3.79 | 83.00 |
60% | Permeability % | 9.10 | 21.78 | 3.67 | 81.00 |
65% | Permeability % | 5.90 | 15.80 | 3.50 | 79.00 |
Annotate: former paste is the aqueous solution of thickener
The different former paste of table 3 ratio is to the influence of COLOR FASTNESS
Analytical table 2,3 selects the former paste of 55%-60% the most suitable, and 50% former paste dyestuff imbibition is serious, and 65% former paste dyestuff is adsorbed on the surface of fabric, causes color fastness decreased.
4. increase the vividness of color and reduce the background color yellowing
Digit printing technology spectral range is extensive, can print 1,670 ten thousand kinds of colors, liquid dyes development simultaneously is very fast, kind has limitation after all, part chromatogram color is dark partially, can not reach customer requirement, behind the adding brightening agent (belonging to dihydroxymethyl ethylene urea, sodium dithionite type), guarantee the vividness of liquid dyes on cashmere produce; Also guarantee the vivid degree of cashmere produce background color, farthest reduced cashmere produce background color yellowing phenomenon.
Method of the present invention had increased laser scanning technology also according to actual needs before digital spray printing
(2) laser scanning technology
Because cashmere produce surface fine hair is with the special pre-treatment of process, but turn in the journey in actual flow, some fine hair also will be holded up unavoidably, these fine hair of holding up often cause the phenomenon of dye discoloration fabric, in addition, as print the phenomenon that the fabric face out-of-flatness causes the dye discoloration fabric equally, employing is by the laser scanner scans fabric face of computer control, automatically stop scanning if any above-mentioned phenomenon machine, only remove obstacles and just begin digital spray printing by scanning, adopt unique pre-treatment process laser scanner smooth to organically combine, realized real pollution-free digit printing with detecting fabric.
(3) digital spray printing
1) fixed point location stamp
Tiling is by the seal fabric on the stamp workbench, combine with the effective of digit printing technology by the cat scanner technology, by the seal fabric, whether the position that compound then pattern is printed is accurate through digital camera scanning, thereby realized " fixed point, location stamp " accurately on cashmere produce.
2) imitative needle cycle stamp
Divide according to printing effect, Computerized flat knitting machine graphics software and digit printing graphics software are shared, thereby on cashmere produce, realized " imitative needle cycle stamp ", reach digit printing technology emulation computer jacquard; Along the effect of cashmere produce lines stamp,, reduced jacquard weave causes processing because of the random polytropy of color difficulty by disposable stamp.
3) imitative embroidery stamp
Divide according to printing effect, embroidery machine graphics software and digit printing graphics software are shared, thereby on cashmere produce, realized imitative " embroidery stamp ",, reduced embroidery because of the random changeable difficulty that causes processing of color by disposable stamp.
4) imitative jacquard printed
Divide according to printing effect, realize sharing, thereby on cashmere produce, realized imitative " jacquard printed ",, reduced jacquard weave because of the random changeable difficulty that causes processing of color by disposable stamp by graphics software and jacquard weave software.
(4) washing and back are whole handles
Through after evaporating, the part dyestuff has anchored on the fiber, and the thickener on the fabric, residual dyestuff and auxiliary agent etc. must be removed in washing, just can reach good COLOR FASTNESS.
Prevent goat cashmere fixation damage fiber under alkali condition, we screen a kind of neutral cleaners good with cleaning performance of being convenient to operate.This cleaning agent can not only be removed after stamp and the decatize the not dyestuff of set, reduced the generation of staining of PRINTED FABRIC background color and colour contamination, and it does not influence the whiteness and the light fastness of fabric.Clean 40 ℃ of water temperatures, consumption is 2 grams per liters.Do not reach requirement if clean the back fastness, then can use cationic fixing agent to carry out fixation treatment.Its structure is the aqueous solution based on polyethylene polymerization ammonia, does not contain formaldehyde in the reagent, and most of fastness all can improve the 0.5-1.5 level, illustrates that this color-fixing agent can play good connection effect between fiber and dyestuff.
Advantage of the present invention is: 1, solved and cashmere produce is carried out digit printing can run into because of fine hair and hold up the irregular phenomenon of the color spray that causes spray nozzle clogging to cause, accurately realize location fixed point stamp, reached the purpose that dyestuff does not pollute the cashmere produce of fabric; 2, cashmere produce digit printing technology is resolved, and fully shows---flexibility, and the speed of drawing a design is fast, and new product provides the cycle short; Monochromatic and polychrome is spent indifference between the original text; Do not have and spend back restriction; The market demand of personalization, small lot, fast reflection obtains real realization, particularly will produce significant impact to goat cashmere grade textiles stamp industry.3, be resolved owing to cashmere produce digit printing technology, realized Computerized flat knitting machine graphics software, embroidery machine graphics software and digit printing graphics software are shared, thereby imitative " needle cycle stamp ", imitative " embroidery stamp " on cashmere produce, have been realized, the effect of imitative " jacquard printed "; 4, selecting for use of dyestuff is internationally renowned brand; The whole compliance with environmental protection requirements of auxiliary agent of pre-treatment, washing, back arrangement.To every index of goat cashmere digit printing product comprise bursting strength, print before and after balling-up, COLOR FASTNESS, safe practice etc. done sample testing, shown in table 4, table 5, table 6, table 7:
Table 4 goat cashmere stamp essence, carded knitted fabric bursting strength test result (unit: Kpa)
Numbering | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | Remarks |
Carded | 363 | 355 | 346 | 339 | 377 | 26S/2 (metric system) |
Combing | 410 | 380 | 413 | 452 | 415 | 68S/3 (metric system) |
Annotate: 1, combing 68S/3 (metric system), carded 26S/2 (metric system).
2, single face plane tissue.
Balling-up comparing result before and after the table 5 goat cashmere stamp carded knitted fabric stamp
Progression |
Before the seal |
Behind the seal |
Before the seal |
Behind the seal |
Before the seal |
Behind the seal |
Before the seal |
Behind the seal |
Before the seal |
Behind the seal |
Before the seal |
Behind the seal |
4 |
35 |
3.5 |
3 |
3.5 |
3.5 |
3.5 |
3 |
4 |
4 |
3.5 |
3.5 |
Table 6 goat cashmere PRINTED FABRIC formaldehyde, pH value test result
Numbering | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 |
Content of formaldehyde (ppm) | 25 | 22.8 | 29.6 | <20 | <20 | <20 | <20 | <20 | <20 | 36.8 |
The pH value | 5.5 | 5.6 | 5.7 | 6.2 | 6.0 | 5.2 | 5.4 | 5.4 | 5.3 | 6.8 |
Table 7 goat cashmere stamp product COLOR FASTNESS test result
Index | Coffee | Purplish blue | Bright red | Green greatly | Black | Light blue | Piece powder |
Fastness to washing | Look becomes | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 |
Hair is stained with | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 |
Cotton | 4-5 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4 |
Perspiration fastness | Look becomes | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 |
Hair is stained with | 3-4 | 3 | 3-4 | 3-4 | 3 | 4-5 | 4 |
Cotton | 3-4 | 3-4 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 4-5 | 3-4 |
Color fastness to water | Look becomes | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4-5 |
Hair is stained with | 3-4 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4 |
Cotton | 3-4 | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4 | 4 | 4-5 | 4 |
The antifriction fastness | Unlubricated friction | 4-5 | 4-5 | 3-4 | 3-4 | 3-4 | 4-5 | 4 |
Wet rubbing | 4 | 4 | 3 | 3-4 | 4 | 4-5 | 3-4 |
Light fastness | ---- | 4-5 | 4-5 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
From above-mentioned table as can be seen: cashmere product bursting strength behind digit printing is also fine, knitting carded product is all greater than 300Kpa, knitting combing product is all greater than 400Kpa, all far above combing 225Kpa, the carded 196Kpa index of FZ/T 73009-1997 " goat cashmere knitwear " regulation.Ball impact is little or basic not to be changed cashmere product to rising behind stamp, and the highest differs half grade, for example drops to 3.5 grades from 4 grades.The environmental protection dyestuffs that this research is all used are carried out with auxiliary agent and the strict optimised process of press, so formaldehyde, pH value meet GB18401-2003 " national textile product basic security technical specification " category-B fully and stipulates that formaldehyde is less than the 75ppm that stipulates; PH value is in the 4.0-7.5 scope of regulation; Can decompose the aromatic amine dyestuff and meet the environmental regulations of textiles oKeo-Tex-100 fully.
The specific embodiment
[embodiment one]
Raw material: 100% goat cashmere
Stamp product: spinning crew neck woman cardigan
Fabric tissue: plane tissue
Yarn count: 68S/3 (metric system)
Background color: lightpink
Stamp position: from 1 centimetre of gate inhibition's stamp below neck sieve
Flower type: 12 kinds of color regular geometric patterns (imitative embroidery stamp)
Pre-treatment prescription: bonding agent 4%
Stamp oil 2%
Brightening agent 2%
Thickener 57%
Tartaric acid 3%
Urea 5%
Water x%
100%
[embodiment two]
Raw material: 100% goat cashmere
Stamp product: slubbing man blouse
Fabric tissue: anter is organized 10*10 centimetre of stamp from 21 centimeters purls more than the rib-loop of base, and other is the plane tissue
Yarn count: 24S/2 (metric system)
The flower type: moire is excessively spent type (fixed point, location stamp)
Background color: light yellow
Pre-treatment prescription: bonding agent 2%
Stamp oil 2%
Brightening agent 2%
Thickener 55%
Tartaric acid 3%
Urea 5%
Water x%
100%
Printing technology: with [embodiment one]
[embodiment three]
Raw material: 100% goat cashmere
Stamp product: the little vest of crew neck
Fabric tissue: plane tissue
Yarn count: 24S/2 (metric system)
Background color: white
Flower type: rhombus lattice (imitative needle cycle stamp)
Pre-treatment prescription: bonding agent 5%
Stamp oil 2%
Brightening agent 2%
Thickener 60%
Tartaric acid 3%
Urea 5%
Water x%
100%
[embodiment four]
Raw material: 100% goat cashmere
Stamp product: slubbing ripples line scarf (fine hair is many)
Fabric tissue: woven ripples line tissue
Background color: blue look
Yarn count: 14S/1 (metric system)
Pre-treatment prescription: bonding agent 5%
Stamp oil 3%
Brightening agent 3%
Thickener 55%
Tartaric acid 3%
Urea 5%
Water x%
100%
[embodiment five]
Raw material: 100% goat cashmere
Stamp product: spinning woven tippet
Fabric tissue: woven plane tissue
Flower type: bird picture (imitative jacquard printed)
Yarn count: 80S/2 (metric system)
Pre-treatment prescription: bonding agent 2%
Stamp oil 3%
Brightening agent 3%
Thickener 60%
Tartaric acid 3%
Urea 5%
Water x%
100%
[embodiment six]
Raw material: 100% goat cashmere
Stamp product: spinning underwear
Fabric tissue: plane tissue
Yarn count: 68S/3 (metric system)
Background color: white
Stamp position: whole body stamp
Pre-treatment prescription: bonding agent 4%
Stamp oil 2%
Brightening agent 2%
Thickener 57%
Tartaric acid 3%
Urea 5%
Water x%
100%