CH693818A5 - Topical preparation for improving elasticity of the skin, containing synergistic combination of biopolymer from sweet almond protein, peptide from malt extract and polypeptide from Aosa algae - Google Patents

Abstract

A topical preparation (A) contains an active agent combination of a biopolymer (I) obtained from sweet almond protein, peptide(s) (II) isolated from malt extract and polypeptide(s) (III) extracted from Aosa algae

Description

shape and consistency such as oils, aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, gels, lipogels, ointments, emulsions, pastes, sticks, etc. which are used for topical use, on the face and / or on the body, in order to act as a cosmetic lifting, that is to stretch the features of the face and body with elasticizing and modeling efficacy on the skin tissues, acting according to the causes that cause it cause loss of elasticity.

Unlike wrinkles that appear as visible signs on the skin, as lines that affect the surface of the face, the loss of elasticity and tone of the skin instead causes the lowering and deformation of the features, the yielding and relaxation of the skin tissues, the sagging and not tense epidermis.

In order to respond to the need to counter the collapse of the features of the face and body, the present invention has been developed by the applicant as a result of the search for innovative solutions to obtain a modeling effectiveness preparation.

The causes that cause the loss of elasticity of the skin are more than one; mainly age and the physiological slowdown of cellular activity that follows. Over the years the degree of turn-over decreases, the replacement of the old fibers becomes slower, the collagen fibers are fragmented, the elastic fibers disorganized, the skin tissues become more consistent and progressively there is a decrease in tone and elasticity skin.

Another cause is the force of gravity. When the collagen and elastic weave is no longer able to counteract the gravitational force, evident folds are formed on the face, but also on the body, which appear as a fall of the skin according to the gravitational force. Finally, environmental agents such as the sun or drastic diets can cause a loss of tone, accentuating expression folds. In particular, prolonged exposure to sunlight causes an acceleration of the normal skin aging process. The damage of the sun's rays is manifested particularly at the level of the dermis where it is the cause of solar elastosis with degeneration of the elastic fibers.

The relaxation of the skin begins to manifest itself around 30 years of age. At 40, the line that marks the oval of the face softens and becomes wavy following the descent of the cheeks. After the age of 50, following the decrease in thickness, elasticity and firmness of the skin, the cheeks sag and the skin descends with vertical creases. At 60, the traits are decidedly run down.

The cosmetic preparation which represents the invention in question is characterized by properties which make it capable of acting on several levels with a combined final effect of cosmetic modeling efficacy on skin tissues. This preparation has been formulated not only to "stretch" the skin of the face but also that of the body; in fact also other parts of the body such as the breast, belly and buttocks, can undergo skin sagging.

The beauty of the breast depends on the elasticity and firmness of the skin that covers it and which, according to experts, is a natural bra. After the age of 30, the inevitable aging process begins with the consequent physiological relaxation of the skin tissues, also accelerated by external causes such as a sudden change in weight, excessive exposure to the sun, pregnancy / breastfeeding.

The belly of a woman can undergo many changes due to overweight, unbalanced diets, pregnancy etc. The skin tissues are released, the profile is deformed, sagging.

The skin of the buttocks covers but also supports the muscle mass of this part of the body. Their firmness and firmness also depends on the firmness of the skin.

The preparation object of the invention proposes, as mentioned, to act on skin tissues with elasticizing and modeling efficacy as a "cosmetic lifting". In order to offer a "cosmetic lifting" with a complete action, the inventors have identified an association of three active ingredients aimed at acting on three levels of the skin, with a combined and synergistic effect of modeling effectiveness.

Our skin is composed of three fundamental areas for the health and trophism of the skin: epidermis, dermo-epidermal junction, dermis. These areas undergo variations that become more and more accentuated over time.

The inventors have therefore formulated the preparation object of the invention for age groups, from 30 to 60 years, with increasing dosages of 3 tensing and toning active ingredients, each of which is specific for one of the 3 zones: we can indeed speak of action superficial or on the epidermis, median action or on the dermo-epidermal junction, and deep action or on the dermis.

The epidermis is a tissue made up of rapidly turnover cells which starts from the mitotic activity of the germ cells of the basal layer.

Of particular importance is the structure - as well as the function - of the dermo-epidermal junction placed between the epidermis and dermis, without cells, of a glycoprotein nature, which performs the fundamental task of establishing the adhesion between the two tissues, of regulating their exchanges , but also support for the overlying epidermis. The dermo-epidermal junction acts as a physical and elastic support for the epidermis; during the aging process it becomes progressively thinner and this causes skin relaxation.

This junction is constituted in its highest part by a lamina, called the basal lamina which adheres to the membrane of the germ cells of the epidermis and is constituted by a non-collagen glycoprotein, called "laminin". The latter is a large molecule composed of 4 subunits arranged in a cross.

The dermis forms the support matrix for the skin. It is basically formed by cells (fibroblasts) surrounded by fibers (organized in a network of collagen and elastic fibers) and by an amorphous fundamental substance produced by the cells themselves (the extracellular matrix).

Collagen fibers are highly resistant fibers; in fact their breaking load is close to that of steel. The elongation (deformation) of the fiber is modest (2%), that is, collagen does not have elastic properties.

Elastic fibers run isolated, branch and anastomose to form a lattice. They can be easily relaxed, returning to their original length when traction ceases, but they are much less resistant than collagen fibers; chemically they are formed from elastin.

The active ingredients of the preparation object of the invention have therefore been selected to act each of them on one of the three zones just described.

The methods of action of the active ingredients are described below.

A biopolymer of sweet almond proteins exerts a superficial action on the epidermis, molecules extracted from malt act in the middle area and an active principle of marine origin exerts a deep action on the dermis. From the synergistic action of the 3 active ingredients on the three levels of the skin, a treatment is born that is able to contrast the subsidence of the features of the face and body.

To act on the surface of the epidermis, the inventors used a biopolymer obtained from sweet almond proteins. It is composed of a three-dimensional network of high-weight, single-color proteins (greater than 500,000 daltons) which adsorbs to the skin surface forming a continuous, elastic film with an immediate lifting effect. This network is obtained through the formation of cross-links - with the aid of a polymerizing agent - between monomers having perfectly defined dimensions, structure and solubility, selected and controlled by enzymatic hydrolysis of sweet almond proteins. The main production stages for obtaining this active ingredient are the following:

- Solubilization of ground sweet almond seeds

- Controlled enzymatic hydrolysis

- Separation of soluble and insoluble phases by filtration

- Polymerization of the soluble phase

- Ultrafiltration

- Sterilizing filtration

The biopolymer aminogram is described below: lysine 7.45%, arginine 7.95%, histidine 2.92%, aspartic acid 15.90%, glutamic acid 15.43%, tyrosine 3.55%, phenylalanine 5.18%, proline 5.07%, glycine 3.98%, threonine 3.48%, serine 5.36%, alanine 4.65%, isoleucine 5.12%, leucine 5.98%.

The viscoelastic film that forms on the skin represents a soft and comfortable support that reinforces the lifting effects on the underlying areas.

The immediate tensor effect of the active principle was assessed using a Cutometer, a tool that links the increase in skin elasticity to the increase in some numerical parameters. The measurements were carried out on the skin of 12 volunteers, before the application of a placebo and the tensor polymer, and after 2 hours from the same. On the skin to which the active ingredient was applied, an increase in the parameters related to skin elasticity of 12.1% was detected, while placebo causes an increase of 7.1%.

Particular peptides extracted from malt and biotechnologically modified are responsible for the median action of the preparation. The amino acid composition of this active ingredient is given below: hydroxyproline 0.6%, asparagine 10.48%, threonine 3.02%, serine 4.55%, glutamine 20.11%, proline 8.92%, glycine 9 , 56%, alanine 7.50%, valine 6.57%, methionine 1.39%, isoleucine 4.12%, leucine 7.71%, tyrosine 1.81%, phenylalanine 4.05%, histidine 2.06 %, hydroxylisine 0.26%, lysine 3.34%, arginine 3.94%. The biopeptides generated by bacterial transformation acquire specific biological activities, making them able to act as cell messengers on the laminin synthesizing cells, stimulating them to produce these glycoproteins. The increase in the presence of laminins, which decreases with age, contributes to increasing the resistance and tonicity of the epidermis. In order to evaluate the activity of this active principle, in vitro tests were carried out on reconstructed mature skin; it was found that the presence of the active substance in the culture medium causes a 61% increase in laminin production compared to a placebo, after 14 days of incubation. Visualization techniques using fluorescence microscopy demonstrate the transcutaneous penetration of the active principle. This active ingredient is therefore able to compensate for the reduction in the synthesis of laminin, one of the key molecules involved in dermo-epidermal adhesion. By reinforcing this adhesion, solid foundations and firmness to the skin are ensured.

At the level of the dermis are the structures that support the skin as already described. To support the skin tissues, the inventors deemed it necessary to intervene at this depth with an active principle of marine origin and with a composition very similar to elastin. The source of this principle is the seaweed Aosa from which polypeptides are extracted (present in the structure of the seaweed for about 77%) whose composition is very similar to elastin. This green alga (Ulva Lactuca) seems apparently very fragile, but its fronds are very resistant precisely due to the presence of a network of elastic fibers similar to the human one. Thanks to this network it is equipped with an elasticity such that it is not affected by hydrostatic pressure and resists the impetuosity of the sea.

The main production steps to obtain the active ingredient are the following:

- wash

- grinding

- micro-grinding

- specific extraction

- concentration

- atomization

This active ingredient is multifunctional; in fact, it is able to promote cellular regeneration of fibroblasts, increase the use of cellular energy, stimulate protein synthesis, promote neo-collagen synthesis by recompacting the extracellular matrix of the dermis and counteract the degradation of elastin with a antielastasic action. Due to the action of the sun and specific enzymes called elastases, the elastic fibers degenerate, disorganize themselves and form scattered clusters which cause loss of elasticity of the skin. The active ingredient extracted from the Aosa seaweed has anti-elastase activity, that is, it inhibits the enzymatic activity of elastase thanks to the change that induces the conformation of the enzyme, thus protecting the elasticity of the support fibers. It is therefore clear that it carries out a complete regenerative activity on the support structures which translates into visibly more sustained skin tissues.

The inventors foresee the use of these three active principles both in products for the face and for the body, with increasing dosages according to the age group to be treated.

In the formulations for the body the inventors suggest to also insert a specific plant extract for each area treated.

By way of example, some plant extracts are provided which determine beneficial effects in particular areas of the body.

The breast preparation can be enriched with Horsetail extract, thanks to its elasticizing and improving properties of the trophism of the skin of that area.

Echinacea extract can be useful for use on the belly skin thanks to its invigorating action on relaxed skin tissues.

The formulation for the buttocks can be enriched with Centella extract useful for tissue trophism and because it helps optimize skin elasticity.

The object of the present invention is therefore a preparation for topical use as described in the attached claim 1.

Some preferred embodiments will now be described in more detail, the composition of which, as will be seen, is modified in a "targeted" manner in order to selectively obtain an increase and an improvement in the firmness of the skin which covers particular parts of the body.

In a preferred embodiment, the preparation of the invention has a composition which comprises:

- between 0.001% and 4% of said sweet almond protein biopolymer;

- between 0.001% and 4% of said peptides isolated from a malt extract;

- between 0.001% and 4% of said polypeptides extracted from the seaweed Aosa.

The preparation thus obtained helps to achieve, as has been demonstrated with the tests mentioned above, an improvement in the elasticity of the skin of the face, contrasting the yielding of the features, but it can be equally effective regardless of the area of the body on which it is applied. In a second embodiment of the preparation of the invention, the horsetail extract is added to the basic preparation described above, for a percentage that varies between 0.05% and 5% of the total weight of the composite preparation thus obtained. . For greater clarity, a numerical example is shown below. If 100 grams of the aforementioned basic preparation have been obtained, containing from 0.001 to 4 g of sweet almond biopolymer, from 0.001 to 4 g of peptides extracted from the Aosa seaweed, from 0.001 to 4 g of peptides isolated from an extract of malt, adding 0.05 g to 5.3 g of Horsetail extract to obtain 100.05 - 105.3 g of a composite preparation which, particularly favoring the elasticization of the skin, is particularly suitable, as mentioned, for applications on breast skin.

If, operating in a similar way to that illustrated above, the Echinacea extract is added to the base preparation for a percentage ranging between 0.05% and 5% of the total weight of the composite preparation thus obtained, a composition is obtained. which, as anticipated, proved to be particularly suitable for obtaining the best effects through applications on the skin of the belly.

If finally, always operating as already explained, it is added to the basic preparation of the extract of Centella at a percentage that varies between 0.05% and 5% of the total weight of the composite preparation thus obtained, a composition is obtained particularly suitable for achieving the best results when applied to the skin of the buttocks.

Of course, other composite preparations of the type described above can also be made, containing other extracts of vegetable origin, suitable for areas of the body other than those considered so far.

It should however be pointed out that, while it is true that the composite preparations described above obtain the best "targeted" results on the skin that covers particular areas of the body, the application of the face preparation described in claim 1 still obtains more effective effects. that satisfactory on the elasticity and tone of the skin tissues of this area.

Claims (7)

1. Preparation for topical use to improve and / or increase the elasticity of the skin and to be applied in increasing dosages according to age, comprising three active ingredients aimed at acting on the skin at three levels, with a combined effect of effectiveness modeling, characterized in that its composition includes: a) a biopolymer obtained from sweet almond proteins for the superficial action at the level of the epidermis; b) one or more peptides isolated from a malt extract for the median action at the level of the dermo-epidermal junction: c) one or more polypeptides extracted from the seaweed Aosa for the deep action at the level of the dermis. 2. Preparation according to claim 1, in which: d) said biopolymer obtained from sweet almond proteins is present in a percentage ranging between 0.001% and 4% by weight; e) said one or more peptides isolated from a malt extract are present in a percentage ranging between 0.001% and 4% by weight; f) the said one or more polypeptides extracted from the Aosa seaweed are present in a percentage that varies between 0.001% and 4% by weight. 3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, in which horsetail extract is added in a percentage ranging from 0.05% to 5% of the total weight of the preparation. 4. Preparation according to one of claims 1 or 2, in which Echinacea extract is added in a percentage that varies between 0.05% and 5% of the total weight of the preparation. 5. Preparation according to one of claims 1 or 2, in which Centella extract is added in a percentage ranging from 0.05% to 5% of the total weight of the preparation. 6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, in which said biopolymer obtained from sweet almond proteins has the following aminogram: lysine 7.45%, arginine 7.95%, histidine 2.92%, aspartic acid 15.90%, glutamic acid 15.43%, tyrosine 3.55%, phenylalanine 5.18%, proline 5.07%, glycine 3.98%, threonine 3.48%, serine 5.36%, alanine 4.65%, isoleucine 5.12%, leucine 5.98%. 7. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 5, in which the said peptides isolated from a malt extract have the following amino-acidic composition: hydroxyproline 0.6%, asparagine 10.48%, thionine 3.02% , serine 4.55%, glutamine 20.11%, proline 8.92%, glycine 9.56%, alanine 7.50%, valine 6.57%, methionine 1.39%, isoleucine 4.12%, leucine 7.71%, tyrosine 1.81%, phenylalanine 4.05%, histidine 2.06%, hydroxylisine 0.26%, lysine 3.34%, arginine 3.94%.