CA2168425A1 - Cosmetic compositions - Google Patents
Cosmetic compositionsInfo
- Publication number
- CA2168425A1 CA2168425A1 CA 2168425 CA2168425A CA2168425A1 CA 2168425 A1 CA2168425 A1 CA 2168425A1 CA 2168425 CA2168425 CA 2168425 CA 2168425 A CA2168425 A CA 2168425A CA 2168425 A1 CA2168425 A1 CA 2168425A1
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- CA
- Canada
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic composition
- composition according
- weight
- acid
- oil
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Abandoned
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
- A61K8/8176—Homopolymers of N-vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Abstract
A cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, gel or lotion comprising an aqueous/alcoholic solution of an acidic anti-acne active and a pyrrolidone-based complexing agent therefor, wherein the aqueous/alcoholic solution has a pH of less than pKa + 1, where pKa is the logarithmic acidity constant for the fully protonated anti-acne active. The cosmetic composition exhibits anti-acne effectiveness and product and colour stability.
Description
wo gs/04s37 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT/US94/08838 COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
- Field of the Invention The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions and more particularly, to pigmented foundation make-up compositions and concealers having anti-acne activity and formulation and colour stability.
Back~round of the Invention A foundation composition can be applied to the face and other parts of - the body to even skin tone and te~ture and to hide pores, imperfections, fine lines and the like. A foundation composition is also applied to moisturize the skin, to balance the oil level of the skin and to provide protection against the adverse effects of sunlight, wind and the harsh environment.
Make-up compositions are generally available in the form of liquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, gels, pressed powders or anhydrous oil and wa~ compositions.
US Patent No. 3,444,291 discloses a method of filling and camo~fl~in~ skin cavities by applying a composition which includes 65 to 75 parts by weight of a microcrystalline wax and about 25 to 35 parts of a mineral oil. The composition includes a colourant, preferably a coal tar dye, for e~cample, D &C Red No. 17, which matches the colour of the user's skin.
A spreadable, flowable and greaseless cosmetic cover-up composition is taught in US Patent No 4,486,405. That composition is characterized by the presence of a first and a second alko~ylated surfactant present in subst~nti~lly the same concentration.
- Field of the Invention The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions and more particularly, to pigmented foundation make-up compositions and concealers having anti-acne activity and formulation and colour stability.
Back~round of the Invention A foundation composition can be applied to the face and other parts of - the body to even skin tone and te~ture and to hide pores, imperfections, fine lines and the like. A foundation composition is also applied to moisturize the skin, to balance the oil level of the skin and to provide protection against the adverse effects of sunlight, wind and the harsh environment.
Make-up compositions are generally available in the form of liquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, gels, pressed powders or anhydrous oil and wa~ compositions.
US Patent No. 3,444,291 discloses a method of filling and camo~fl~in~ skin cavities by applying a composition which includes 65 to 75 parts by weight of a microcrystalline wax and about 25 to 35 parts of a mineral oil. The composition includes a colourant, preferably a coal tar dye, for e~cample, D &C Red No. 17, which matches the colour of the user's skin.
A spreadable, flowable and greaseless cosmetic cover-up composition is taught in US Patent No 4,486,405. That composition is characterized by the presence of a first and a second alko~ylated surfactant present in subst~nti~lly the same concentration.
2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT/USg4/08838 US Patent No. 4,804,532 recites a facial cosmetic powder which utilizes crystalline silica in much lower concentration than that employed in the then prior art compositions. This powder, used as a blush or a facial coating, is said to be effective in hiding skin wrinkles, lines and pores. The composition is a mi~ture of a colour phase and a diluent phase. The colour phase is formed by blending crystalline silica with colourants. The resultant colour phase is mi~ed with the diluent phase, essentially formed from nacreous materials such as talc and mica, to form the composition.
The use of a foundation composition which has a significantly high concentration of nacreous material is taught in US Patent No.
The use of a foundation composition which has a significantly high concentration of nacreous material is taught in US Patent No.
3,978,207. This foundation, a pressed powder composition, is characterized by the presence of a nacreous material such as mica and a binder oil which provides a frosted pearl effect, that is, a lustrous look. The colour of this foundation is provided by the nacreous material.
US Patent No. 4,659,562 discloses a cosmetic make-up composition which includes, as a binding agent therefore, an intim~te mi~ture of from S to 95 weight percent of a mi~ture of finely divided silica and about 5 to 95 weight percent of finely divided polyethylene fibres. The composition is recited to m~int~in its uniformity over the areas of the skin to which it is applied. That is, it is said to be "creaseproof". The composition of the '562 patent includes colourant in admixture with nacreous agents.
Nakamura et al., ~ hlls of the XIVth I.F.S.C.C. Congress, Barcelona, 1986, Vol. I, 51-63 (1986) describes a novel make-up composition ~ltili7in~ spherical silica and polydimethyl silo~ane. This combination is recited to provide a foundation which reduces wrinkle visibility to a greater e~ctent than make-up foundations with which it was co~ ,ared. This reduction in wrinkle visibility is caused by optical blurring enhanced by the novel use of spherical silica and polydimethyl silo~ane.
W0 95/04537 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 ~usg4~08838 -US Patent No. 5,143,722 discloses a cosmetic make-up composition comprising water-in-oil emulsions comprising pigment coated with polysilo~ane, a silicone phase, a water phase and a polydiorganosilo~ane-polyoxyalkylene copolymeric surfactant.
Foundations in the form of water-in-oil emulsions are well known and provide good coverage and good skin feel, wear and appearance. At the same time, it would be desirable to provide a foundation composition having topical anti-acne activity. There are many compounds which are known to e~hibit anti-acne properties when applied topically to the skin. A commonly used keratolytic agent having anti-acne activity is salicylic acid. As salicylic acid is virtually insoluble in water it is difficult to incorporate into the aqueous phase of an emulsion composition. Delivery of salicylic acid from the pigment-conf~ining oil phase of an emulsion foundation composition can, however, lead to discolouration of the composition due to interaction between the salicylic acid and pigments, especially of the iron o~ide type. It would therefore be desirable to deliver the salicylic acid in soluble form from the aqueous phase.
Polyvinylpyrrolidone is known for use as a solubilizing/comple~ing agent in a variety of compositions.
GB-A-2,041,963 discloses an aqueous detergent composition for cle~n~in~ oily skin comprising a water-soluble salt of an N-acyl ester of sarcosine, a polyvinylpyrrolidone cosolubilizer and a protein and/or protein hydrolysate. The composition can also contain salicylic acid as a keratolytic agent and a buffer such as citric acid/citrate. There is no disclosure, however, of cosmetic compositions cont~inin~ solubilized acidic anti-acne actives in fully protonated form as specified herein.
Since acidic anti-acne agents are most active at low pH (when a high concentration of free acid is present in solution) it would be desirable to deliver the agent from an aqueous phase at a pH at which it exists significantly in protonated form. It is accordingly a primary object of this invention to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a low pH
aqueous solution of an anti-acne active.
wo gs/W537 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 ~CTfUS94/08838 It is also an object of the invention to provide a cosmetic compositionhaving improved anti-acne activity and stability.
It is a further object of the invention to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion having improved colour stability and pigment/anti-acne active compatibility.
Sllmm~ry of the invention In accordance with one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, gel or lotion comprising an aqueous/alcoholic solution of an acidic anti-acne active and a pyrrolidone-based comple~cing agent therefor, and wherein the aqueous/alcoholic solution has a pH of less than about pKa + 1, where pKa is the logarithmic acidity constant for the fully protonated anti-acne active.
The cosmetic compositions of the present invention provide anti-acne efficacy together with improved product and colour stability.
According to another aspect of the present invention there is provided a make-up composition in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion comprising an acidic anti-acne active dissolved in the aqueous phase and a pigment or mi~ture of pigments dispersed in the oil phase.
All levels and ratios are by weight of total composition, unless otherwise indicated. Chain length and degrees of alko~ylation are also specified on a weight average basis.
Detailed Description of the Invention The cosmetic composition according to one aspect of the present invention comprises an aqueous/alcoholic solution of an acidic anti-acne active and a pyrrolidone-based complexing agent. The composition is in the form of an emulsion, gel or lotion.
According to this first aspect of the present invention a first essential component is an aqueous/alcoholic solution of an anti-acne active.
Suitable anti-acne actives for use herein include salicylic acid, retinoic acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid and its derivatives, lactic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, flavonoids, and mixtures thereof.
The anti-acne active used in the composition herein is preferably selected from salicylic acid and azelaic acid, and mi~tures thereof, more preferably salicyclic acid. The anti-acne active is present at a level of from about 0.1 % to about 10%, preferably from about 0. 1 %
to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%, by weight of composition.
The anti-acne active is solubilized in water or an alcoholic solution, for e~ample, solutions based upon C2-C6 alcohols, diols and polyols, preferled alcohols being selected from ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, he~ylene glycol, and mi~ctures thereof. Alcohol is preferably present in the compositions herein at a level of from about 1% to about 20%. The final aqueous/alcoholic anti-acne active solution preferably has a pH at ambient temperature (25C) of less than about PKa + 1, where PKa is the logarithmic acidity constant for the fully protonated anti-acne active. In preferred embodiments, the pH of the final solution is less than about pKa.
The logarithmic acidity constant is thus defined by reference to the equilibrium H+ + Hn-lA = HnA
where HnA is the fully protonated acid, n is the number of protons in the fully protonated acid and Hn 1 A is the conjugate base of the acid corresponding to loss of one proton.
The acidity constant for this equilibrium is therefore Kn = [HnA]
rH+] [Hn lA]
and PKa = 1 og 1 oKn For the purposes of this specification, acidity constants are defined at 25C and at zero ionic strength. Literature values are taken where possible (see Stability Constants of Metal-Ion Complexes, Special Publication No. 25, The Chemical Society, London); where doubt arises they are determined by potentiometric titration using a glass electrode.
The PKa f the acidic anti-acne active used herein is preferably in the range of from about 1 to about 6, more preferably from about 1 to about 4.5, especially from about 1.5 to about 4Ø
The pH of the final aqueous/alcoholic anti-acne active solution is preferably in the range of from about 1 to about 7, more preferably from about 2 to about 5, especially from about 2 to about 4. At pH
values of less than about 5 the aqueous phase is preferably free of acid labile species such as acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and polyglycerylmethacrylate .
A second essential component of the compositions of the first aspect of the present invention is a pyrrolidone-based comple~ing agent.
The pyrrolidone-based complexing agent is useful herein from the viewpoint of aiding solubilization of the anti-acne active. The pyrrolidone-based comple~cing agent used herein is preferably selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone comple~ing agents or Cl-C4 alkyl polyvinylpyrrolidone comple~ing agents having a molecular weight (viscosity average) in the range from about 1500 to about 1,500,000, preferably from about 3000 to about 700,000, more preferably from about 5000 to about 100,000. Suitable examples of pyrrolidone-based wo 95/04537 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCTIUS94/08838 comple~ing agents are polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) (or povidone) and butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone. The most preferred pyrrolidone-based comple~ing agent herein is a polyvinylpyrrolidone complexing agent.
PVP is commercially available under the trade name Luviskol (RTM) from BASF. A preferred PVP complexing agent herein is Luviskol K17 which has a viscosity-average molecular weight of about 9,000.
Other pyrrolidone-based comple~ing agents for use herein include C I -Clg alkyl or hydroxyalkyl pyrrolidones such as lauryl pyrrolidone.
The pyrrolidone-based comple~ing agent is present in the composition herein in a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 5 % by weight of composition. The weight ratio of anti-acne active: pyrrolidone-based comple~ing agent is in the range from about 10:1 to about 1:10, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1 :5.
Preferred embodiments of the invention additionally comprise from about 0.01 % to about 5 % by weight of an acid or salt thereof which is soluble in water at pH values of less than or equal to the pKa of the corresponding acid, for e~ample, an acid selected from citric acid, boric acid, and salts, and mi~tures thereof. These materials are valuable herein in combination with the pyrrolidone-based comple~ing agent from the viewpoint of aiding solubilization of the anti-acne active. Particularly prefelred herein from this viewpoint is a sodium salt of citric acid. In preferred embodiments, the acid or salt thereof is soluble to a level of at least 5% w/w at 25C.
The composition of the present invention can be in emulsion (w/o or o/w), gel or lotion form but is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, wherein in prefe1red embodiments the oil phase comprises a mi~ture of volatile silicones and non-volatile silicones. The silicone oil is present in an amount of from about 1% to about 50% by weight.
Suitable volatile silicone oils include cyclic and linear volatile polyorganosilo~anes (as used herein, "volatile" refers to those materials which have a measurable vapour pressure at ambient conditions).
wo 95/W~7 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT/US94108838 A description of various volatile silicones is found in Todd, et al..
"Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics", 91 Cosmetics and Toiletries 27-32 (1976).
Preferred cyclic silicones include polydimethylsilo~anes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms, preferably cont~ining from about 4 to about 5 silicon atoms. Preferred linear silicone oils in~lud~
the polydimethylsilo~anes cont~inin~ from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms. The linear volatile silicones generally have viscosities of less than about 5 centistokes at 25C, while the cyclic materials have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes. E~amples of silicone oils useful in the present invention include: Dow Corning 344, Dow Corning 21330, Dow Corning 345, and Dow Corning 200 (manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation): Silicone 7207 and Silicone 7158 (manufactured by the Union Carbide Corporation).
SF:202 (m~nllf~ctured by General Electric) and SWS-03314 (manufactured by Stauffer Chemical).
Suitable non-volatile silicones preferably have an average viscosity of from about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 mm2.s~1 at 25C. more preferably from about 10,000 to about 1,800,000 mm2.s~l, even more ~referably from about 100,000 to about 1,500,000 mm2.s~l. Lower viscosity non-volatile silicone conditioning agents, however, can also be used. Viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970. Suitable non-volatile silicone fluids for use herein include polyalkyl silo~anes, polyaryl silo~anes, polyalkylaryl silo~canes, polysilo~anes with amino functional substitutions, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mi~tures thereof. The silo~anes useful in the present invention may be endcapped with any number of moieties, including, for e~ample, methyl, hydro~yl, ethylene o~cide, propylene o~ide, amino and carbo~yl. However, other silicone fluids having skin conditioning properties may be used. The non-volatile polyalkyl silo~ane fluids that may be used include, for e~cample, polydimethylsilo~anes. These silo~anes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as a Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. Preferably, the wo gstw537 2 1 ~ 8 4 2 5 PCT/US94/08838 _ viscosity ranges from about 10 mm2.s~1 to about 100,000 mm2.s~1 at 25C. The polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids that may be used, also include, for e~ample, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These silo~anes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. The polyether silo~cane copolymer that may be used includes, for e~ample, a polypropylene oxide modified dimethylpolysiloxane (e.g., Dow Corning DC-1248) although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene o~ide and propylene o~ide may also be used.
References disclosing suitable silicone fluids include US-A-2,826,551, Green; US-A-3,964,500, Drakoff, issued June 22nd, 1976; US-A-4,364,837, Pader; and GB-A-849,433, Woolston. In addition, Silicone Compounds distributed by Petrarch Systems Inc., 1984 provides an e~tensive (though not e~clusive) listing of suitable silicone fluids.
Preferred non-volatile silicones for use herein include polydiorganosilo~ane-polyo~yalkylene copolymers cont~inin~ at least one polydiorganosilo~ane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment, said polydiorganosilo~ane segment consisting essentially of Rbsio(4-b)l2 siloxane units wherein b has a value of from about 0 to about 3, inclusive, there being an average value of appro~imately 2 R radicals per-silicon for all silo~cane units in the ccpolymer, and R denotes a radical selected from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a divalent radical bonding said polyo~yalkylene segment to the polydiorganosilo~ane segment, at least about 95 % of all R radicals being methyl; and said polyo~yalkylene segment having an average molecular weight of at least about 1000 and consisting of from about 0 to about 50 mol percent polyo~ypropylene units and from about 50 to about 100 mol percent polyo~yethylene units, at least one terminal portion of said polyo~yalkylene segment being bonded to said W09~/W~37 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT~S94/08838 polydiorganosilo~ane segment, any terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment not bonded to said polydiorganosiloxane segment being satisfied by a termin~ting radical; the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylene segments in said copolymer having a value of from about 2 to about 8. Such polymers are described in US-A-4,268,499.
More preferred for use herein are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers having the general formula:
H3C Si 0 - (Si )x (Si 0) Si CH3 o (~ H40)a(C3H6)bR
wherein ~ and y are selected such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosilo~ane segments to polyoxalkylene segments is from about 2 to about 8, the mol ratio of a:(a+b) is from about 0.5 to about 1, and R is a chain termin~ting group, especially selected frorll hydrogen; hydroxyl; alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl, such as phenyl; alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy, propo~y, buto~y; benzyloxy; aryloxy, such as phenoxy; alkenyloxy, such as vinylo~y and allylo~y; acyloxy, such as acetoxy, acryloxy and propiono~cy and amino, such as dimethylamino.
The number of and average molecular weights of the segments in the copolymer are such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably from about 2.5 to about 4Ø
. _ Il Suitable copolymers are available commercially under the tradenames Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S, Postfach D-8000 Munich 22 and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldsehmidt Ltd,. Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL.
Particularly preferred for use herein are Belsil (RTM) 6031, Abil (RTM) B88183 and DC3225C. A preferred silicone herein is known by its CTFA designation as dimethicone copolyol.
The silicone oil phase preferably comprises from about 2% to about 25 %, more preferably from about 5 ~3Zo to about 15 % by weight of composition of non-volatile silicones.
A highly preferred component of the compositions herein is a humectant or mi~cture of humectants. The humectant or mi~ture of humectants herein is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 30% preferably from about 5% to about 25%, and more preferably from about 10% to about 20% by weight of composition. Suitable humectants are selected from glycerine and polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant having a viscosity at 25C of 300,000 to l,lOO,OOO cps; a specific gravity at 25C of 1 to 1.2g/ml, a pH of 5.0 to 5.5; a bound water content of 33 to 58%; and, a free water content from 5 to 20%.
The humectant can be incorporated at least partly into the oil phase of the water-in-oil emulsion so as to form a multiphase humectant-in-oil-in-water dispersion. The oil phase preferably comprises from about 0.1% to about 10%, more prefe-~bly from about O.l % to about 3% hy weight of hl)mectant on a composition basis. The humectant can be introduced into the oil phase in the form of a mi~ture with or incorporated within a particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material.
Polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants having the desired properties are marketed by Guardian Chemical Corporation under the trademark "Lubrajel". The "Lubrajels" identified as "Lubrajel DV", "Lubrajel MS", and "Lubrajel CG" are preferred in the present invention. The gelling agents sold under these trademarks contain about I % propylene glycol.
Other suitable humectants include sorbitol, panthenols, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, alko~ylated glucose derivatives, such as Glucam (RTM) E-20, hexanetriol, and glucose ethers, and mi~tures thereof. Urea is also suitably added as a humectant in the internal aqueous phase.
The panthenol moisturiser can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2,4-dihydro~y-N-[3-hydro~ypropyl)]-3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine, pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, p~n~mic acid, pyrido~in, pantoyl lactose and Vitamin B comple~.
The preferred humectant herein is glycerine. Chemically, glycerine is 1,2,3-propanetriol and is a product of commerce.
Preferred embodiments herein comprise a pigment or mi~ture of pigments. Suitable pigments for use herein can be inorganic and/or organic. Also included within the term pigment are materials having a low colour or lustre such as matte fini~hin~ agents, and also light scattering agents. E~amples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, acylgll~t~m~te iron o~ides, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine, and mi~tures thereof. Depending upon the type of make-up composition, eg. foundation or blusher, a mi~ture of pigments will normally be used.
It is a feature of the composition herein that the pigment and anti-acne active have e~ccellent overall compatability and colour stability. Thu~
according to another aspect of the present invention there is provided a make-up composition in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion comprising an acidic anti-acne active dissolved in the aqueous phase and a pigment or mi~ture of pigments dispersed in the oil phase.
The foundation composition can also include at least one matte fini~hin~ agent. The function of the matte finishing agent is to hide skin defects and reduce shine. Such cosmetically acceptable inorganic . _ agents, i.e., those included in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Third Ed., as silica, hydrated silica, silicone-treated silica beads, mica, talc, polyethylene, titanium dio~ide, bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, chalk, diatomaceous earth, attapulgite zinc oxide and the like may be utilized. Of particular usefulness as a matte finishing agent is low lustre pigment such as tit~n~te~l mica (mica coated with titanium dio~ide) coated with barium sulfate. Of the inorganic components useful as a matte fini~hin~ agent low lustre pigment, talc, polyethylene, hydrated silica, kaolin, titanium dio~ide and mi~tures thereof are particularly preferred. Materials suitable for use herein as light-scattering agents can be generally described as spherical shaped inorganic materials having a particle size of up to about 100 microns, preferably from about 5 to about 50 microns, for example spherical silica particles.
The total concentration of the pigment may be from about 0.1 to about 25% by weight and is preferably from about 1 to about 10% by weight of the total composition, the e~act concentration being dependent to some e~ctent upon the specific mi~ture of pigments selected for use in a foundation make-up or blusher to achieve the desired shades. The preferred compositions contain from about 2% to about 20% by weight of titanium dio~ide and most preferably from about 5% to about 10%
by weight of titanium dio~cide.
The preferred pigments for use herein from the viewpoint of moisturisation, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are treated pigments. The pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids such as Iysine, silicones, lauroyl, collagen, polyethylene, lecithin and ester oils. The more preferred pigments are the silicone (polysilo~ane) treated pigments.
The balance of the composition of the present invention is deionized water. The composition preferably comprises from about 30% to about 95%, more preferably from about 40% to about 80% by weight of the oil phase, and from about 5% to about 70%, more preferably from about 20% to about 60% by weight of the water phase.
wo ss/04s37 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT/USg4/08838 The make-up compositions of the present invention can also comprise a particulate cross-linked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer. This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing shine arld controlling oil while helping to provide effective moisturization benefits. The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the form of a copolymer lattice with at least one active ingredient dispersed uniformly throughout and entrapped within the copolymer lattice. Alternatively, the hydrophobic polymer can take the form of porous particle having a surface area (N2-BET) in the range from about 50 to S00, preferably lO0 to 300m2/g and having the active ingredient absorbed therein.
The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer when used herein is in an amount of from about 0.1% `to about 10% by weight and is preferably incorporated in the e~ternal silicone-cont~inin~ oil phase. The active ingredient can be one or more or a mixture of skin compatible oils, skin compatible humectants, emollients, moisturizing agents and sunscreens. The polymer material is in the form of a powder, the powder being a combined system of particles. The system of powder particles forms a lattice which includes unit particles of less than about one micron in average diameter, agglomerates of fused unit particles of sized in the range of about 20 to 100 microns in average diameter and aggregates of clusters of fused agglomerates of sizes in the range of about 200 to 1,200 microns in average diameter.
The powder material of the present invention which can be employed as the carrier for the active ingredient can be broadly described as a cross-linked "post absorbed" hydrophobic polymer lattice. The powder l~rcferably has ent-apped and dispersed therein, an active which may be in the form of a solid, liquid or gas. The lattice is in particulate form and constitutes free flowing discrete solid particles when loaded with the active material. The lattice may contain a predetermined quantity of the active material. The polymer has the structural formula:
~s C=O C=O
O O
I
R' R' ' o C=O
CH C
where the ratio of ~ to y is 80:20, R' is -CH2CH2- and R" is -(CH2)1 1CH3-The hydrophobic polymer is a highly crosslinked polymer, more particularly a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer. The material is manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation, Midland.
Michigan, USA, and sold under the trademark POLYTRAP (RTM) .
It is an ultralight free-flowing white powder and the particles are capable of absorbing high levels of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquids while at the same time maint~ining a free-flowing powder character. The powder structure consists of a lattice of unit particles less than one micron that are fused into agglomerates of 20 to 100 microns and the agglomerates are loosely clustered into macro-particles or aggregates of about 200 to about 1200 micron size. The polymer powder is capable of cont~ininp as much as four times its weight of fluids, emulsions, dispersions or melted solids.
Adsorption of actives onto the polymer powder can be accomplished using a stainless steel mixing bowl and a spoon, wherein the active is added to the powder and the spoon is used to gently fold the active into the polymer powder. Low viscosity fluids may be adsorbed by addition of the fluids to a sealable vessel containing the polymer and then tumbling the materials until a consistency is achieved. More elaborate blending equipment such as ribbon or twin cone blenders can also be employed. The preferred active ingredient for use herein is glycerine. Preferably, the weight ratio of humectant: carrier is from about 1:4 to about 3:1.
Also suitable as a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer is Microsponges 5647. This takes the form of generally spherical particles of cross-linked hydrophobic polymer having a pore size of from about 0.01 to about O.O51lm and a surface area of 200-300m2/g.
Again, it is preferably loaded with humectant in the levels described above.
The compositions of the invention can also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent at a level preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.02~o to about 2%, and especially from about 0.02% to about 0.5%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa.s, more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000 mPa.s.
Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described as water-soluble or colloidally water-soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g. hydro~yethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydro~ypropylmethyl cellulose), polyvinylalcohol, polyquaternium-10, guar gum, hydro~ypropyl guar gum and ~nth~n gum.
Among suitable hydrophilic gelling agents are acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and the carbo~yvinyl polymers sold by the B.F.
Goodrich Company under the trade mark of Carbopol resins. These resins consist essentially of a colloidally water-soluble polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from wo ss/04s37 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT/USg4/08838 0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as for e~ample polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use herein are hydrophobically-modified cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid having amphipathic properties available under the Trade Name Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-I
(CTFA Designation: Acrylates/10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer).
A combination of the polyalkenyl polyether cross-linked acrylic acid polymer and the hydrophobically modified cross-linked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable for use herein. Other suitable gelling agents suitable for use herein are oleogels such as trihydro~ystearin and aluminium magnesium hydro~y stearate. The gelling agents herein are particularly valuable for providing e~cellent stability characteristics over both normal and elevated temperatures.
Neutr~1i7in~ agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidic group ~ontainin~
hydrophilic gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydro~cide, ammonium hydro~cide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanol~mine.
The make-up compositions herein can additionally comprise an emollient. Emollients suitable for the compositions of the present invention include natural and synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable, and ~nim~l oils, fats and wa~es, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, alkylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers and esters, fatty acids and mi~tures thereof.
Suitable emollients for use herein include, for e~ample, optionally hydro~y-substituted Cg-Cso I-n~ rated fatty acids and esters thereof, C1-C24 esters of Cg-C30 saturated fatty acids such as isopropyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and octyldodecylmyristate (Wickenol 142), beeswa~, saturated and l~n~ rated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, fatty sorbitan esters (see US-A-3988255, Seiden, issued October 26 1976), lanolin and lanolin derivativ~ u~h as lanolin alcohol ethoxylated, hydro~ylated and acetylated lanolins, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, ~nim~l and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, oil of apricot pits, walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts, sesame seeds, rapeseed, cade oil, corn oil, peach pit oil, poppyseed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, saMower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and sunflower seed oil and Cl C24 esters of dimer and trimer acids such as diisopropyl dimerate, diisostearylm~l~te, diisostearyldimerate and triisostearyltrimerate.
r~efeifed emollients are selected from hydrocarbons such as isohe~ ec~ne, mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, lanolin alcohol, and stearyl alcohol. These emollients may be used independently or in mi~tures and may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount from about 1% to about 305'o by weight, and preferably are present in an amount from about 5 % to about 15 % by weight of the total composition.
The composition may also contain additional materials su~h as, for e~ample, fragrances, fillers such as nylon, sun-screens, preservatives, electrolytes such as sodium chloride, proteins, antio~idants, chelating agents and water-in-oil emulsifiers as appropriate.
Another optional component of the make-up composition is one or more ultraviolet absorbing agents. Ultraviolet absorbing agents, often described as sunscreening agents, can be present in a concentration in the range of between about 1% and about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of composition. Preferably, the UV absorbing agents constitute between about 2% and 8% by weight. More preferably, the UV absorbing agents can be present in the composition in a concentration range of between about 4% and about 6% by weight. Of the ultraviolet absorbing agents suitable for use herein, benzophenone-3, octyl dimethyl PABA (P~dim~te O) and mi~tures thereof are particularly preferred.
WO 95tO4537 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT/US94/08838 Another optional but preferred component herein is one or more additional chelating agents, preferably in the range of from about 0.02% to about 0.10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the chelating agent is present in a concentration in the range of between about 0.03% and about 0.07~c by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Among the chelating agents that may be included in the composition is tetrasodium EDTA.
Another optional but preferred component of the foundation composition is one or more preservatives. The preservative concentration in the foundation composition, based on the total weight of that composition, is in the range of between about 0.05 % and about 0.8% by weight, preferably between about 0.1% and about 0.3% by weight. Suitable preservatives for use herein include sodium benzoate and propyl paraben, and mi~tures thereof.
The make-up compositions of the present invention can be in the form of foundations, blushers, concealers, compact powders, and the like, preferably as foundations and concealers.
WO 95/~537 PCT~S94/08838 The following Table is provided to illustrate compositions of the make-up of the present invention:
Example I II III IV V VI V~l Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt % % % % % % %
A.
Cetyloctanoate 2.00 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 Cyclomethicone 8.57 12.25 12.25 15.0 12.0 8.57 8.57 Cyclomethicone/
dimethicone cOpOIyOI (90:10) 17.16 20.0 20.0 5.0 8.0 10.0 17.16 Propylparaben 0.75 0.75 0.0 0.75 0.0 0.75 0.75 (33 %) in laureth-7 Dimethicone 2.0 0.0 2.0 3.0 5.0 10.0 0.0 Fluid Benzophenene-3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 Propylene glycol Dicaprylate/
Dicaprate 0.0 0.0 0.0 5.0 0.0 10.0 0.0 Titanium Dio~ide 8.25 6.0 1.5 6.0 8.0 20.0 8.25 Titanium Dio~ide treated (Aluminium hydrate, stearic acid) 0.25 0.5 3.0 0.25 0.25 0.0 0.25 Titanated Micas 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.25 1.0 0.0 0.1 Talc 3.38 4.5 6.0 0.7 0.7 0.7 3.38 Silica 0.6 4.25 6.0 4.25 0.6 0.6 0.6 Nylon 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0-5 Example I II III IV V VI VII
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt % % % % % % %
C.
Cyclomethicone/
dimethicone copolyol (90:10) 1.85 1.5 1.85 5.0 1.0 l.0 1.85 Yellow Iron O~ide 1.2 1.2 0.6 0.4 1.2 1.2 1.2 Red Iron O~ide 0.49 0.6 0.6 0.49 0.49 0.2 0.6 Black Iron O~ide 0.16 0.1 0.24 0.1 0.1 0.24 0.24 Ultramarine Blue 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 Cyclomethicone 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.68 0.0 0.0 Synthetic Wa~ 0.1 0.5 0.5 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 Arachidyl behenate 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.5 0.3 0 3 Stearic Acid 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.5 Palmitic Acid 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.5 0.0 Silica (spheron 6.0 0.0 6.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 P1500) Trihydro~y- 0.3 0.3 1.5 1.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 stearin Cyclomethicone 1.0 4.0 0.0 0.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 Beeswa~ 1.5 1.2 0.0 0.0 1.3 0.0 0.0 Abil WED9 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 wo ss/04s37 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCTNS94108838 Example I II III IV V VI VII
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt % % % 5'o % %
G.
Ethylene 0.05 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.05 0.05 brassylate BHT 0.05 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.05 0.05 Deionized water ------- ------- -----to 100-- ------- ------- -------Ethanol 6 5.5 4.0 7 6.0 8.0 6.0 Salicylic acid 1 1 1 2 2 2 0.0 Azeleicacid 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 5 Propylene glycol 2.37 2.37 1.37 2.37 0.0 2.37 0.0 Dipropylene 6.0 5.0 6.5 7.00 8.0 6.0 5.0 glycol Sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.0 Glycerine 4.5 5.0 10.0 5.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 Tetrasodium 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.01 EDTA
Triethanol~mine 0.0 0.0 0.0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 75 Allantoin 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 sunscreen 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.2 0.0 0.0 polyvinylpyrrolid- 1 2 1.5 1 1 1 2 -one (Luviskol K17) Sodiumcitrate 0.3 0.3 0.0 0.2 0.4 0.3 0.4 Sodium 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.4 0.0 0.2 0.0 Tetraborate pH of aqueous 2.9 2.8 2.9 3.2 3.0 2.9 3.1 phase Deionized Water 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 10.0 0.0 0.0 WO 95tO4537 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT/US94/08838 E~ample I II III IV V VI V~I
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt % % % % % % %
J.
Propylene Glycol 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 X~nth~n Gum 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.08 0.0 0.0 0.0 Essential Oils 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.20 0.0 0.0 0.0 PerfumeOil 0.0 0.25 0.0 0.20 0.0 0.0 0.0 Vitamin A
Palmitate 0.0 0.05 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 AloeVeraGel 0.0 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Chamomile E~tract 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 * Contains about 1% propylene glycol.
The various components listed in the Table have been segregated into groups, the constituents of each group being mi~ed together before being added to members of the rem~inin~ groups in accordance with the procedures set forth below.
In the first step, the mi~cture of components of phase A is stirred forappro~imately 5 minlltes with sheer mi~ing until homogeneous. With high speed sheer mi~cing, the materials of phase B are added gradually to A and the batch is mi~ed for 20 minutes until dispersed.
The components of phase C and then phase D are slowly added to the mi~ture of phases A and B with high shear mi~ing until dispersed.
Silica is added at this point and dispersed through the mi~ture.
The resulting batch heated to 90C before the addition of the components of phase E. The vessel is cooled to 55C and the premixed phase F is added. The batch is mixed untiJ homogeneous.
The mi~ture is cooled to 30C and phase G is added.
A premi~ of phase H is made by mi~ing all the components until completely dissolved. At 30C the premi~ of phase H is added to the batch mi~ture with high shear, ensuring that there is no excess water on the surface. The mi~ture is then milled for 15 minutes.
Finally phases I, J, K, and L are added as diluent.
The resulting make-up composition is ready for packaging.
The make-up compositions of the E~amples e~hibit anti-acne activity and improved formulation and colour stability.
US Patent No. 4,659,562 discloses a cosmetic make-up composition which includes, as a binding agent therefore, an intim~te mi~ture of from S to 95 weight percent of a mi~ture of finely divided silica and about 5 to 95 weight percent of finely divided polyethylene fibres. The composition is recited to m~int~in its uniformity over the areas of the skin to which it is applied. That is, it is said to be "creaseproof". The composition of the '562 patent includes colourant in admixture with nacreous agents.
Nakamura et al., ~ hlls of the XIVth I.F.S.C.C. Congress, Barcelona, 1986, Vol. I, 51-63 (1986) describes a novel make-up composition ~ltili7in~ spherical silica and polydimethyl silo~ane. This combination is recited to provide a foundation which reduces wrinkle visibility to a greater e~ctent than make-up foundations with which it was co~ ,ared. This reduction in wrinkle visibility is caused by optical blurring enhanced by the novel use of spherical silica and polydimethyl silo~ane.
W0 95/04537 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 ~usg4~08838 -US Patent No. 5,143,722 discloses a cosmetic make-up composition comprising water-in-oil emulsions comprising pigment coated with polysilo~ane, a silicone phase, a water phase and a polydiorganosilo~ane-polyoxyalkylene copolymeric surfactant.
Foundations in the form of water-in-oil emulsions are well known and provide good coverage and good skin feel, wear and appearance. At the same time, it would be desirable to provide a foundation composition having topical anti-acne activity. There are many compounds which are known to e~hibit anti-acne properties when applied topically to the skin. A commonly used keratolytic agent having anti-acne activity is salicylic acid. As salicylic acid is virtually insoluble in water it is difficult to incorporate into the aqueous phase of an emulsion composition. Delivery of salicylic acid from the pigment-conf~ining oil phase of an emulsion foundation composition can, however, lead to discolouration of the composition due to interaction between the salicylic acid and pigments, especially of the iron o~ide type. It would therefore be desirable to deliver the salicylic acid in soluble form from the aqueous phase.
Polyvinylpyrrolidone is known for use as a solubilizing/comple~ing agent in a variety of compositions.
GB-A-2,041,963 discloses an aqueous detergent composition for cle~n~in~ oily skin comprising a water-soluble salt of an N-acyl ester of sarcosine, a polyvinylpyrrolidone cosolubilizer and a protein and/or protein hydrolysate. The composition can also contain salicylic acid as a keratolytic agent and a buffer such as citric acid/citrate. There is no disclosure, however, of cosmetic compositions cont~inin~ solubilized acidic anti-acne actives in fully protonated form as specified herein.
Since acidic anti-acne agents are most active at low pH (when a high concentration of free acid is present in solution) it would be desirable to deliver the agent from an aqueous phase at a pH at which it exists significantly in protonated form. It is accordingly a primary object of this invention to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a low pH
aqueous solution of an anti-acne active.
wo gs/W537 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 ~CTfUS94/08838 It is also an object of the invention to provide a cosmetic compositionhaving improved anti-acne activity and stability.
It is a further object of the invention to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion having improved colour stability and pigment/anti-acne active compatibility.
Sllmm~ry of the invention In accordance with one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, gel or lotion comprising an aqueous/alcoholic solution of an acidic anti-acne active and a pyrrolidone-based comple~cing agent therefor, and wherein the aqueous/alcoholic solution has a pH of less than about pKa + 1, where pKa is the logarithmic acidity constant for the fully protonated anti-acne active.
The cosmetic compositions of the present invention provide anti-acne efficacy together with improved product and colour stability.
According to another aspect of the present invention there is provided a make-up composition in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion comprising an acidic anti-acne active dissolved in the aqueous phase and a pigment or mi~ture of pigments dispersed in the oil phase.
All levels and ratios are by weight of total composition, unless otherwise indicated. Chain length and degrees of alko~ylation are also specified on a weight average basis.
Detailed Description of the Invention The cosmetic composition according to one aspect of the present invention comprises an aqueous/alcoholic solution of an acidic anti-acne active and a pyrrolidone-based complexing agent. The composition is in the form of an emulsion, gel or lotion.
According to this first aspect of the present invention a first essential component is an aqueous/alcoholic solution of an anti-acne active.
Suitable anti-acne actives for use herein include salicylic acid, retinoic acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid and its derivatives, lactic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, flavonoids, and mixtures thereof.
The anti-acne active used in the composition herein is preferably selected from salicylic acid and azelaic acid, and mi~tures thereof, more preferably salicyclic acid. The anti-acne active is present at a level of from about 0.1 % to about 10%, preferably from about 0. 1 %
to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%, by weight of composition.
The anti-acne active is solubilized in water or an alcoholic solution, for e~ample, solutions based upon C2-C6 alcohols, diols and polyols, preferled alcohols being selected from ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, he~ylene glycol, and mi~ctures thereof. Alcohol is preferably present in the compositions herein at a level of from about 1% to about 20%. The final aqueous/alcoholic anti-acne active solution preferably has a pH at ambient temperature (25C) of less than about PKa + 1, where PKa is the logarithmic acidity constant for the fully protonated anti-acne active. In preferred embodiments, the pH of the final solution is less than about pKa.
The logarithmic acidity constant is thus defined by reference to the equilibrium H+ + Hn-lA = HnA
where HnA is the fully protonated acid, n is the number of protons in the fully protonated acid and Hn 1 A is the conjugate base of the acid corresponding to loss of one proton.
The acidity constant for this equilibrium is therefore Kn = [HnA]
rH+] [Hn lA]
and PKa = 1 og 1 oKn For the purposes of this specification, acidity constants are defined at 25C and at zero ionic strength. Literature values are taken where possible (see Stability Constants of Metal-Ion Complexes, Special Publication No. 25, The Chemical Society, London); where doubt arises they are determined by potentiometric titration using a glass electrode.
The PKa f the acidic anti-acne active used herein is preferably in the range of from about 1 to about 6, more preferably from about 1 to about 4.5, especially from about 1.5 to about 4Ø
The pH of the final aqueous/alcoholic anti-acne active solution is preferably in the range of from about 1 to about 7, more preferably from about 2 to about 5, especially from about 2 to about 4. At pH
values of less than about 5 the aqueous phase is preferably free of acid labile species such as acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and polyglycerylmethacrylate .
A second essential component of the compositions of the first aspect of the present invention is a pyrrolidone-based comple~ing agent.
The pyrrolidone-based complexing agent is useful herein from the viewpoint of aiding solubilization of the anti-acne active. The pyrrolidone-based comple~cing agent used herein is preferably selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone comple~ing agents or Cl-C4 alkyl polyvinylpyrrolidone comple~ing agents having a molecular weight (viscosity average) in the range from about 1500 to about 1,500,000, preferably from about 3000 to about 700,000, more preferably from about 5000 to about 100,000. Suitable examples of pyrrolidone-based wo 95/04537 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCTIUS94/08838 comple~ing agents are polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) (or povidone) and butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone. The most preferred pyrrolidone-based comple~ing agent herein is a polyvinylpyrrolidone complexing agent.
PVP is commercially available under the trade name Luviskol (RTM) from BASF. A preferred PVP complexing agent herein is Luviskol K17 which has a viscosity-average molecular weight of about 9,000.
Other pyrrolidone-based comple~ing agents for use herein include C I -Clg alkyl or hydroxyalkyl pyrrolidones such as lauryl pyrrolidone.
The pyrrolidone-based comple~ing agent is present in the composition herein in a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 5 % by weight of composition. The weight ratio of anti-acne active: pyrrolidone-based comple~ing agent is in the range from about 10:1 to about 1:10, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1 :5.
Preferred embodiments of the invention additionally comprise from about 0.01 % to about 5 % by weight of an acid or salt thereof which is soluble in water at pH values of less than or equal to the pKa of the corresponding acid, for e~ample, an acid selected from citric acid, boric acid, and salts, and mi~tures thereof. These materials are valuable herein in combination with the pyrrolidone-based comple~ing agent from the viewpoint of aiding solubilization of the anti-acne active. Particularly prefelred herein from this viewpoint is a sodium salt of citric acid. In preferred embodiments, the acid or salt thereof is soluble to a level of at least 5% w/w at 25C.
The composition of the present invention can be in emulsion (w/o or o/w), gel or lotion form but is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, wherein in prefe1red embodiments the oil phase comprises a mi~ture of volatile silicones and non-volatile silicones. The silicone oil is present in an amount of from about 1% to about 50% by weight.
Suitable volatile silicone oils include cyclic and linear volatile polyorganosilo~anes (as used herein, "volatile" refers to those materials which have a measurable vapour pressure at ambient conditions).
wo 95/W~7 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT/US94108838 A description of various volatile silicones is found in Todd, et al..
"Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics", 91 Cosmetics and Toiletries 27-32 (1976).
Preferred cyclic silicones include polydimethylsilo~anes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms, preferably cont~ining from about 4 to about 5 silicon atoms. Preferred linear silicone oils in~lud~
the polydimethylsilo~anes cont~inin~ from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms. The linear volatile silicones generally have viscosities of less than about 5 centistokes at 25C, while the cyclic materials have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes. E~amples of silicone oils useful in the present invention include: Dow Corning 344, Dow Corning 21330, Dow Corning 345, and Dow Corning 200 (manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation): Silicone 7207 and Silicone 7158 (manufactured by the Union Carbide Corporation).
SF:202 (m~nllf~ctured by General Electric) and SWS-03314 (manufactured by Stauffer Chemical).
Suitable non-volatile silicones preferably have an average viscosity of from about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 mm2.s~1 at 25C. more preferably from about 10,000 to about 1,800,000 mm2.s~l, even more ~referably from about 100,000 to about 1,500,000 mm2.s~l. Lower viscosity non-volatile silicone conditioning agents, however, can also be used. Viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970. Suitable non-volatile silicone fluids for use herein include polyalkyl silo~anes, polyaryl silo~anes, polyalkylaryl silo~canes, polysilo~anes with amino functional substitutions, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mi~tures thereof. The silo~anes useful in the present invention may be endcapped with any number of moieties, including, for e~ample, methyl, hydro~yl, ethylene o~cide, propylene o~ide, amino and carbo~yl. However, other silicone fluids having skin conditioning properties may be used. The non-volatile polyalkyl silo~ane fluids that may be used include, for e~cample, polydimethylsilo~anes. These silo~anes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as a Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. Preferably, the wo gstw537 2 1 ~ 8 4 2 5 PCT/US94/08838 _ viscosity ranges from about 10 mm2.s~1 to about 100,000 mm2.s~1 at 25C. The polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids that may be used, also include, for e~ample, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These silo~anes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. The polyether silo~cane copolymer that may be used includes, for e~ample, a polypropylene oxide modified dimethylpolysiloxane (e.g., Dow Corning DC-1248) although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene o~ide and propylene o~ide may also be used.
References disclosing suitable silicone fluids include US-A-2,826,551, Green; US-A-3,964,500, Drakoff, issued June 22nd, 1976; US-A-4,364,837, Pader; and GB-A-849,433, Woolston. In addition, Silicone Compounds distributed by Petrarch Systems Inc., 1984 provides an e~tensive (though not e~clusive) listing of suitable silicone fluids.
Preferred non-volatile silicones for use herein include polydiorganosilo~ane-polyo~yalkylene copolymers cont~inin~ at least one polydiorganosilo~ane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment, said polydiorganosilo~ane segment consisting essentially of Rbsio(4-b)l2 siloxane units wherein b has a value of from about 0 to about 3, inclusive, there being an average value of appro~imately 2 R radicals per-silicon for all silo~cane units in the ccpolymer, and R denotes a radical selected from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a divalent radical bonding said polyo~yalkylene segment to the polydiorganosilo~ane segment, at least about 95 % of all R radicals being methyl; and said polyo~yalkylene segment having an average molecular weight of at least about 1000 and consisting of from about 0 to about 50 mol percent polyo~ypropylene units and from about 50 to about 100 mol percent polyo~yethylene units, at least one terminal portion of said polyo~yalkylene segment being bonded to said W09~/W~37 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT~S94/08838 polydiorganosilo~ane segment, any terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment not bonded to said polydiorganosiloxane segment being satisfied by a termin~ting radical; the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylene segments in said copolymer having a value of from about 2 to about 8. Such polymers are described in US-A-4,268,499.
More preferred for use herein are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers having the general formula:
H3C Si 0 - (Si )x (Si 0) Si CH3 o (~ H40)a(C3H6)bR
wherein ~ and y are selected such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosilo~ane segments to polyoxalkylene segments is from about 2 to about 8, the mol ratio of a:(a+b) is from about 0.5 to about 1, and R is a chain termin~ting group, especially selected frorll hydrogen; hydroxyl; alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl, such as phenyl; alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy, propo~y, buto~y; benzyloxy; aryloxy, such as phenoxy; alkenyloxy, such as vinylo~y and allylo~y; acyloxy, such as acetoxy, acryloxy and propiono~cy and amino, such as dimethylamino.
The number of and average molecular weights of the segments in the copolymer are such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably from about 2.5 to about 4Ø
. _ Il Suitable copolymers are available commercially under the tradenames Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S, Postfach D-8000 Munich 22 and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldsehmidt Ltd,. Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL.
Particularly preferred for use herein are Belsil (RTM) 6031, Abil (RTM) B88183 and DC3225C. A preferred silicone herein is known by its CTFA designation as dimethicone copolyol.
The silicone oil phase preferably comprises from about 2% to about 25 %, more preferably from about 5 ~3Zo to about 15 % by weight of composition of non-volatile silicones.
A highly preferred component of the compositions herein is a humectant or mi~cture of humectants. The humectant or mi~ture of humectants herein is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 30% preferably from about 5% to about 25%, and more preferably from about 10% to about 20% by weight of composition. Suitable humectants are selected from glycerine and polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant having a viscosity at 25C of 300,000 to l,lOO,OOO cps; a specific gravity at 25C of 1 to 1.2g/ml, a pH of 5.0 to 5.5; a bound water content of 33 to 58%; and, a free water content from 5 to 20%.
The humectant can be incorporated at least partly into the oil phase of the water-in-oil emulsion so as to form a multiphase humectant-in-oil-in-water dispersion. The oil phase preferably comprises from about 0.1% to about 10%, more prefe-~bly from about O.l % to about 3% hy weight of hl)mectant on a composition basis. The humectant can be introduced into the oil phase in the form of a mi~ture with or incorporated within a particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material.
Polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants having the desired properties are marketed by Guardian Chemical Corporation under the trademark "Lubrajel". The "Lubrajels" identified as "Lubrajel DV", "Lubrajel MS", and "Lubrajel CG" are preferred in the present invention. The gelling agents sold under these trademarks contain about I % propylene glycol.
Other suitable humectants include sorbitol, panthenols, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, alko~ylated glucose derivatives, such as Glucam (RTM) E-20, hexanetriol, and glucose ethers, and mi~tures thereof. Urea is also suitably added as a humectant in the internal aqueous phase.
The panthenol moisturiser can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2,4-dihydro~y-N-[3-hydro~ypropyl)]-3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine, pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, p~n~mic acid, pyrido~in, pantoyl lactose and Vitamin B comple~.
The preferred humectant herein is glycerine. Chemically, glycerine is 1,2,3-propanetriol and is a product of commerce.
Preferred embodiments herein comprise a pigment or mi~ture of pigments. Suitable pigments for use herein can be inorganic and/or organic. Also included within the term pigment are materials having a low colour or lustre such as matte fini~hin~ agents, and also light scattering agents. E~amples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, acylgll~t~m~te iron o~ides, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine, and mi~tures thereof. Depending upon the type of make-up composition, eg. foundation or blusher, a mi~ture of pigments will normally be used.
It is a feature of the composition herein that the pigment and anti-acne active have e~ccellent overall compatability and colour stability. Thu~
according to another aspect of the present invention there is provided a make-up composition in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion comprising an acidic anti-acne active dissolved in the aqueous phase and a pigment or mi~ture of pigments dispersed in the oil phase.
The foundation composition can also include at least one matte fini~hin~ agent. The function of the matte finishing agent is to hide skin defects and reduce shine. Such cosmetically acceptable inorganic . _ agents, i.e., those included in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Third Ed., as silica, hydrated silica, silicone-treated silica beads, mica, talc, polyethylene, titanium dio~ide, bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, chalk, diatomaceous earth, attapulgite zinc oxide and the like may be utilized. Of particular usefulness as a matte finishing agent is low lustre pigment such as tit~n~te~l mica (mica coated with titanium dio~ide) coated with barium sulfate. Of the inorganic components useful as a matte fini~hin~ agent low lustre pigment, talc, polyethylene, hydrated silica, kaolin, titanium dio~ide and mi~tures thereof are particularly preferred. Materials suitable for use herein as light-scattering agents can be generally described as spherical shaped inorganic materials having a particle size of up to about 100 microns, preferably from about 5 to about 50 microns, for example spherical silica particles.
The total concentration of the pigment may be from about 0.1 to about 25% by weight and is preferably from about 1 to about 10% by weight of the total composition, the e~act concentration being dependent to some e~ctent upon the specific mi~ture of pigments selected for use in a foundation make-up or blusher to achieve the desired shades. The preferred compositions contain from about 2% to about 20% by weight of titanium dio~ide and most preferably from about 5% to about 10%
by weight of titanium dio~cide.
The preferred pigments for use herein from the viewpoint of moisturisation, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are treated pigments. The pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids such as Iysine, silicones, lauroyl, collagen, polyethylene, lecithin and ester oils. The more preferred pigments are the silicone (polysilo~ane) treated pigments.
The balance of the composition of the present invention is deionized water. The composition preferably comprises from about 30% to about 95%, more preferably from about 40% to about 80% by weight of the oil phase, and from about 5% to about 70%, more preferably from about 20% to about 60% by weight of the water phase.
wo ss/04s37 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT/USg4/08838 The make-up compositions of the present invention can also comprise a particulate cross-linked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer. This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing shine arld controlling oil while helping to provide effective moisturization benefits. The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the form of a copolymer lattice with at least one active ingredient dispersed uniformly throughout and entrapped within the copolymer lattice. Alternatively, the hydrophobic polymer can take the form of porous particle having a surface area (N2-BET) in the range from about 50 to S00, preferably lO0 to 300m2/g and having the active ingredient absorbed therein.
The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer when used herein is in an amount of from about 0.1% `to about 10% by weight and is preferably incorporated in the e~ternal silicone-cont~inin~ oil phase. The active ingredient can be one or more or a mixture of skin compatible oils, skin compatible humectants, emollients, moisturizing agents and sunscreens. The polymer material is in the form of a powder, the powder being a combined system of particles. The system of powder particles forms a lattice which includes unit particles of less than about one micron in average diameter, agglomerates of fused unit particles of sized in the range of about 20 to 100 microns in average diameter and aggregates of clusters of fused agglomerates of sizes in the range of about 200 to 1,200 microns in average diameter.
The powder material of the present invention which can be employed as the carrier for the active ingredient can be broadly described as a cross-linked "post absorbed" hydrophobic polymer lattice. The powder l~rcferably has ent-apped and dispersed therein, an active which may be in the form of a solid, liquid or gas. The lattice is in particulate form and constitutes free flowing discrete solid particles when loaded with the active material. The lattice may contain a predetermined quantity of the active material. The polymer has the structural formula:
~s C=O C=O
O O
I
R' R' ' o C=O
CH C
where the ratio of ~ to y is 80:20, R' is -CH2CH2- and R" is -(CH2)1 1CH3-The hydrophobic polymer is a highly crosslinked polymer, more particularly a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer. The material is manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation, Midland.
Michigan, USA, and sold under the trademark POLYTRAP (RTM) .
It is an ultralight free-flowing white powder and the particles are capable of absorbing high levels of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquids while at the same time maint~ining a free-flowing powder character. The powder structure consists of a lattice of unit particles less than one micron that are fused into agglomerates of 20 to 100 microns and the agglomerates are loosely clustered into macro-particles or aggregates of about 200 to about 1200 micron size. The polymer powder is capable of cont~ininp as much as four times its weight of fluids, emulsions, dispersions or melted solids.
Adsorption of actives onto the polymer powder can be accomplished using a stainless steel mixing bowl and a spoon, wherein the active is added to the powder and the spoon is used to gently fold the active into the polymer powder. Low viscosity fluids may be adsorbed by addition of the fluids to a sealable vessel containing the polymer and then tumbling the materials until a consistency is achieved. More elaborate blending equipment such as ribbon or twin cone blenders can also be employed. The preferred active ingredient for use herein is glycerine. Preferably, the weight ratio of humectant: carrier is from about 1:4 to about 3:1.
Also suitable as a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer is Microsponges 5647. This takes the form of generally spherical particles of cross-linked hydrophobic polymer having a pore size of from about 0.01 to about O.O51lm and a surface area of 200-300m2/g.
Again, it is preferably loaded with humectant in the levels described above.
The compositions of the invention can also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent at a level preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.02~o to about 2%, and especially from about 0.02% to about 0.5%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa.s, more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000 mPa.s.
Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described as water-soluble or colloidally water-soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g. hydro~yethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydro~ypropylmethyl cellulose), polyvinylalcohol, polyquaternium-10, guar gum, hydro~ypropyl guar gum and ~nth~n gum.
Among suitable hydrophilic gelling agents are acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and the carbo~yvinyl polymers sold by the B.F.
Goodrich Company under the trade mark of Carbopol resins. These resins consist essentially of a colloidally water-soluble polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from wo ss/04s37 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT/USg4/08838 0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as for e~ample polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use herein are hydrophobically-modified cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid having amphipathic properties available under the Trade Name Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-I
(CTFA Designation: Acrylates/10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer).
A combination of the polyalkenyl polyether cross-linked acrylic acid polymer and the hydrophobically modified cross-linked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable for use herein. Other suitable gelling agents suitable for use herein are oleogels such as trihydro~ystearin and aluminium magnesium hydro~y stearate. The gelling agents herein are particularly valuable for providing e~cellent stability characteristics over both normal and elevated temperatures.
Neutr~1i7in~ agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidic group ~ontainin~
hydrophilic gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydro~cide, ammonium hydro~cide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanol~mine.
The make-up compositions herein can additionally comprise an emollient. Emollients suitable for the compositions of the present invention include natural and synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable, and ~nim~l oils, fats and wa~es, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, alkylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers and esters, fatty acids and mi~tures thereof.
Suitable emollients for use herein include, for e~ample, optionally hydro~y-substituted Cg-Cso I-n~ rated fatty acids and esters thereof, C1-C24 esters of Cg-C30 saturated fatty acids such as isopropyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and octyldodecylmyristate (Wickenol 142), beeswa~, saturated and l~n~ rated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, fatty sorbitan esters (see US-A-3988255, Seiden, issued October 26 1976), lanolin and lanolin derivativ~ u~h as lanolin alcohol ethoxylated, hydro~ylated and acetylated lanolins, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, ~nim~l and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, oil of apricot pits, walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts, sesame seeds, rapeseed, cade oil, corn oil, peach pit oil, poppyseed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, saMower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and sunflower seed oil and Cl C24 esters of dimer and trimer acids such as diisopropyl dimerate, diisostearylm~l~te, diisostearyldimerate and triisostearyltrimerate.
r~efeifed emollients are selected from hydrocarbons such as isohe~ ec~ne, mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, lanolin alcohol, and stearyl alcohol. These emollients may be used independently or in mi~tures and may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount from about 1% to about 305'o by weight, and preferably are present in an amount from about 5 % to about 15 % by weight of the total composition.
The composition may also contain additional materials su~h as, for e~ample, fragrances, fillers such as nylon, sun-screens, preservatives, electrolytes such as sodium chloride, proteins, antio~idants, chelating agents and water-in-oil emulsifiers as appropriate.
Another optional component of the make-up composition is one or more ultraviolet absorbing agents. Ultraviolet absorbing agents, often described as sunscreening agents, can be present in a concentration in the range of between about 1% and about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of composition. Preferably, the UV absorbing agents constitute between about 2% and 8% by weight. More preferably, the UV absorbing agents can be present in the composition in a concentration range of between about 4% and about 6% by weight. Of the ultraviolet absorbing agents suitable for use herein, benzophenone-3, octyl dimethyl PABA (P~dim~te O) and mi~tures thereof are particularly preferred.
WO 95tO4537 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT/US94/08838 Another optional but preferred component herein is one or more additional chelating agents, preferably in the range of from about 0.02% to about 0.10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the chelating agent is present in a concentration in the range of between about 0.03% and about 0.07~c by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Among the chelating agents that may be included in the composition is tetrasodium EDTA.
Another optional but preferred component of the foundation composition is one or more preservatives. The preservative concentration in the foundation composition, based on the total weight of that composition, is in the range of between about 0.05 % and about 0.8% by weight, preferably between about 0.1% and about 0.3% by weight. Suitable preservatives for use herein include sodium benzoate and propyl paraben, and mi~tures thereof.
The make-up compositions of the present invention can be in the form of foundations, blushers, concealers, compact powders, and the like, preferably as foundations and concealers.
WO 95/~537 PCT~S94/08838 The following Table is provided to illustrate compositions of the make-up of the present invention:
Example I II III IV V VI V~l Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt % % % % % % %
A.
Cetyloctanoate 2.00 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 Cyclomethicone 8.57 12.25 12.25 15.0 12.0 8.57 8.57 Cyclomethicone/
dimethicone cOpOIyOI (90:10) 17.16 20.0 20.0 5.0 8.0 10.0 17.16 Propylparaben 0.75 0.75 0.0 0.75 0.0 0.75 0.75 (33 %) in laureth-7 Dimethicone 2.0 0.0 2.0 3.0 5.0 10.0 0.0 Fluid Benzophenene-3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 Propylene glycol Dicaprylate/
Dicaprate 0.0 0.0 0.0 5.0 0.0 10.0 0.0 Titanium Dio~ide 8.25 6.0 1.5 6.0 8.0 20.0 8.25 Titanium Dio~ide treated (Aluminium hydrate, stearic acid) 0.25 0.5 3.0 0.25 0.25 0.0 0.25 Titanated Micas 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.25 1.0 0.0 0.1 Talc 3.38 4.5 6.0 0.7 0.7 0.7 3.38 Silica 0.6 4.25 6.0 4.25 0.6 0.6 0.6 Nylon 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0-5 Example I II III IV V VI VII
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt % % % % % % %
C.
Cyclomethicone/
dimethicone copolyol (90:10) 1.85 1.5 1.85 5.0 1.0 l.0 1.85 Yellow Iron O~ide 1.2 1.2 0.6 0.4 1.2 1.2 1.2 Red Iron O~ide 0.49 0.6 0.6 0.49 0.49 0.2 0.6 Black Iron O~ide 0.16 0.1 0.24 0.1 0.1 0.24 0.24 Ultramarine Blue 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 Cyclomethicone 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.68 0.0 0.0 Synthetic Wa~ 0.1 0.5 0.5 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 Arachidyl behenate 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.5 0.3 0 3 Stearic Acid 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.5 Palmitic Acid 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.5 0.0 Silica (spheron 6.0 0.0 6.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 P1500) Trihydro~y- 0.3 0.3 1.5 1.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 stearin Cyclomethicone 1.0 4.0 0.0 0.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 Beeswa~ 1.5 1.2 0.0 0.0 1.3 0.0 0.0 Abil WED9 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 wo ss/04s37 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCTNS94108838 Example I II III IV V VI VII
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt % % % 5'o % %
G.
Ethylene 0.05 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.05 0.05 brassylate BHT 0.05 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.05 0.05 Deionized water ------- ------- -----to 100-- ------- ------- -------Ethanol 6 5.5 4.0 7 6.0 8.0 6.0 Salicylic acid 1 1 1 2 2 2 0.0 Azeleicacid 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 5 Propylene glycol 2.37 2.37 1.37 2.37 0.0 2.37 0.0 Dipropylene 6.0 5.0 6.5 7.00 8.0 6.0 5.0 glycol Sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.0 Glycerine 4.5 5.0 10.0 5.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 Tetrasodium 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.01 EDTA
Triethanol~mine 0.0 0.0 0.0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 75 Allantoin 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 sunscreen 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.2 0.0 0.0 polyvinylpyrrolid- 1 2 1.5 1 1 1 2 -one (Luviskol K17) Sodiumcitrate 0.3 0.3 0.0 0.2 0.4 0.3 0.4 Sodium 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.4 0.0 0.2 0.0 Tetraborate pH of aqueous 2.9 2.8 2.9 3.2 3.0 2.9 3.1 phase Deionized Water 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 10.0 0.0 0.0 WO 95tO4537 2 1 6 8 4 2 5 PCT/US94/08838 E~ample I II III IV V VI V~I
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt % % % % % % %
J.
Propylene Glycol 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 X~nth~n Gum 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.08 0.0 0.0 0.0 Essential Oils 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.20 0.0 0.0 0.0 PerfumeOil 0.0 0.25 0.0 0.20 0.0 0.0 0.0 Vitamin A
Palmitate 0.0 0.05 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 AloeVeraGel 0.0 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Chamomile E~tract 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 * Contains about 1% propylene glycol.
The various components listed in the Table have been segregated into groups, the constituents of each group being mi~ed together before being added to members of the rem~inin~ groups in accordance with the procedures set forth below.
In the first step, the mi~cture of components of phase A is stirred forappro~imately 5 minlltes with sheer mi~ing until homogeneous. With high speed sheer mi~cing, the materials of phase B are added gradually to A and the batch is mi~ed for 20 minutes until dispersed.
The components of phase C and then phase D are slowly added to the mi~ture of phases A and B with high shear mi~ing until dispersed.
Silica is added at this point and dispersed through the mi~ture.
The resulting batch heated to 90C before the addition of the components of phase E. The vessel is cooled to 55C and the premixed phase F is added. The batch is mixed untiJ homogeneous.
The mi~ture is cooled to 30C and phase G is added.
A premi~ of phase H is made by mi~ing all the components until completely dissolved. At 30C the premi~ of phase H is added to the batch mi~ture with high shear, ensuring that there is no excess water on the surface. The mi~ture is then milled for 15 minutes.
Finally phases I, J, K, and L are added as diluent.
The resulting make-up composition is ready for packaging.
The make-up compositions of the E~amples e~hibit anti-acne activity and improved formulation and colour stability.
Claims (28)
1. A cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, gel or lotion comprising an aqueous/alcoholic solution of an anti-acne active and a pyrrolidone-based complexing agent therefor, and wherein the aqueous/alcoholic solution has a pH of less than about pKa + 1, where pKa is the logarithmic acidity constant for the fully protonated anti-acne active.
2. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 comprising from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of anti-acne active.
3. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 comprising from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of pyrrolidone-based complexing agent.
4. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 3 wherein the pyrrolidone-based complexing agent is selected from a polyvinylpyrrolidone complexing agent.
5. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 4 wherein the anti-acne active is selected from salicylic acid, retinoic acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid and its derivatives, lactic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, flavonoids, and mixtures thereof.
6. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 5 wherein said anti-acne active is selected from salicylic acid and azelaic acid and mixtures thereof.
7. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 6 additionally comprising from about 0.01 % to about 5 % by weight of citric acid or salt thereof.
8. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 7 in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.
9. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 8 comprising from about 1% to about 50% by weight of silicone oil selected from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.
10. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 9 wherein the volatile silicone oil is selected from cyclic polyorganosiloxanes having viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes and linear polyorganosiloxanes having viscosities of less than about 5 centistokes at 25°C, and mixtures thereof.
11. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 10 wherein the volatile silicone oil is selected from cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms, preferably containing from about 4 to about 5 silicon atoms and linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms.
12. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 11 wherein the non-volatile silicone oil comprises a polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymer containing at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment.
13. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 12 wherein the polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymer is dimethicone copolyol.
14. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 13 additionally comprising from about 0.1 % to about 30% by weight of humectant.
15. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 14 wherein the humectant is selected from glycerine and polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants having a viscosity of from about 300,000-1,100,000cps at 25°C, and mixtures thereof.
16. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 15 wherein the humectant is glycerine.
17. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 16 comprising from about 0.1 % to about 5 % by weight of anti-acne active.
18. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 17 comprising from about 0.1 % to about 5 % by weight of pyrrolidone-based complexing agent.
19. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 9 wherein the silicone oil comprises from about 2% to about 25%, preferably from about 5% to about 15% by weight of composition of non-volatile silicones.
20. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 19 comprising from about 5 % to about 25 % by weight of composition of humectant.
21. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 20 additionally comprising from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight of a cross-linked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer.
22. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 21 wherein the cross-linked hydrophobic copolymer is in the form of a lattice and wherein at least one active ingredient is dispersed uniformly throughout and entrapped within the copolymer lattice, the active ingredient being selected from skin compatible oils, skin compatible humectants, emollients, moisturizing agents and sunscreens.
23. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 22 wherein the active ingredient is selected from humectants, preferably glycerine.
24. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 23 additionally comprising from about 1 % to about 15 % by weight of an emollient which is a natural or synthetic oil selected from mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, alkylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers and esters, fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
25. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 24 wherein the emollient is selected from isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, dioctyl maleate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/propylene glycol dicaprate, caprylic triglyceride/capric triglyceride, squalane, mineral oil, cetearylisononanoate and lanolin alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
26. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 25 wherein the oil phase comprises from about 0.1 % to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 3 % by weight of humectant on a composition basis.
27. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 26 comprising from about 30% to about 95%, preferably from about 40% to about 80% by weight of the oil phase, and from about 5 % to about 70 %, preferably from about 20 % to about 60% by weight of the water phase.
28. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 27 additionally comprising one or more ultraviolet absorbing agents.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| GB9316323.6 | 1993-08-06 | ||
| GB939316323A GB9316323D0 (en) | 1993-08-06 | 1993-08-06 | Cosmetic compositions |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA2168425A1 true CA2168425A1 (en) | 1995-02-16 |
Family
ID=10740067
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA 2168425 Abandoned CA2168425A1 (en) | 1993-08-06 | 1994-08-05 | Cosmetic compositions |
Country Status (9)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0717627A4 (en) |
| JP (1) | JPH09501176A (en) |
| CN (1) | CN1130875A (en) |
| AU (1) | AU673623B2 (en) |
| CA (1) | CA2168425A1 (en) |
| CZ (1) | CZ34796A3 (en) |
| GB (1) | GB9316323D0 (en) |
| TW (1) | TW401306B (en) |
| WO (1) | WO1995004537A1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (29)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GB9316322D0 (en) * | 1993-08-06 | 1993-09-22 | Procter & Gamble | Cosmetic compositions |
| FR2718022B1 (en) † | 1994-04-01 | 1996-04-26 | Roussel Uclaf | Cosmetic or dermatological compositions and their preparation. |
| US5449519C1 (en) * | 1994-08-09 | 2001-05-01 | Revlon Consumer Prod Corp | Cosmetic compositions having keratolytic and anti-acne activity |
| GB9416050D0 (en) * | 1994-08-09 | 1994-09-28 | Procter & Gamble | Anti-acne cosmetic compositions |
| US5547989A (en) * | 1994-08-19 | 1996-08-20 | Schering-Plough Healthcare Products, Inc. | Compositions for treating corns and calluses |
| GB2299022B (en) * | 1995-03-18 | 1999-03-31 | Procter & Gamble | Cosmetic compositions |
| GB2299023B (en) * | 1995-03-18 | 1999-03-31 | Procter & Gamble | Cosmetic compositions |
| JP3487390B2 (en) * | 1995-06-01 | 2004-01-19 | 株式会社資生堂 | Emulsion powder cosmetic |
| UY24246A1 (en) * | 1995-06-06 | 1996-06-14 | Neutrogena Corp | TROPIC VEHICLES CONTAINING SOLUBILIZED AND STABILIZED AZELAIC ACID |
| JP2002503211A (en) * | 1996-06-27 | 2002-01-29 | ザ、プロクター、エンド、ギャンブル、カンパニー | Cosmetic composition |
| JPH10324615A (en) * | 1997-05-21 | 1998-12-08 | Pola Chem Ind Inc | Discrimination of cosmetic for pollinosis |
| US6534070B1 (en) * | 1997-11-19 | 2003-03-18 | Schering Aktiengesellschaft | Composition with azelaic acid |
| SE9801647D0 (en) * | 1998-05-12 | 1998-05-12 | Interhealth Ab | Therapeutic composition |
| US6495498B2 (en) * | 1999-05-27 | 2002-12-17 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. | Detergent compositions with enhanced depositing, conditioning and softness capabilities |
| US6200964B1 (en) * | 1999-05-28 | 2001-03-13 | Neutrogena Corporation | Silicone gel containing salicylic acid |
| US6432424B1 (en) | 2000-06-29 | 2002-08-13 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. | Cosmetic compositions containing creatine, carnitine, and/or pyruvic acid |
| US6630175B1 (en) | 2000-06-29 | 2003-10-07 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. | Method of reducing eye irritation |
| US6372791B1 (en) | 2000-06-29 | 2002-04-16 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. | Method of promoting skin cell metabolism |
| US6649176B1 (en) | 2000-06-29 | 2003-11-18 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. | Compositions containing mineral water |
| CN1630506A (en) * | 2000-09-29 | 2005-06-22 | 强生消费者公司 | Compositions for cleansing skin and treating acne |
| CA2460500A1 (en) | 2001-09-26 | 2003-04-03 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Topical compositions containing fluid-absorbent solids and adhesive fluids |
| WO2003026596A1 (en) * | 2001-09-26 | 2003-04-03 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Topical compositions containing solid particulates and a silicone resin copolymer fluid |
| US7223386B2 (en) * | 2002-03-11 | 2007-05-29 | Dow Corning Corporation | Preparations for topical skin use and treatment |
| US7122174B2 (en) | 2002-09-30 | 2006-10-17 | L'oreal S.A. | Compositions comprising at least one silicone compound and at least one amine compound, and methods for using the same |
| DE102004004969A1 (en) * | 2004-01-28 | 2005-08-18 | Beiersdorf Ag | UV-light-protective filters are used in reducing microcomedones or (optionally together with hydroxy-acids) in increasing the therapeutic effectiveness in acne treatment |
| CA2747667C (en) | 2008-12-17 | 2017-08-22 | Harmony Laboratories, Inc. | Acne treatment powder foundation |
| CZ2011777A3 (en) * | 2011-11-29 | 2012-10-10 | Neofyt Spol. S R.O. | Composition for removing warts and coarse skin |
| CN108553411B (en) | 2018-07-25 | 2020-05-12 | 成都卓阳生物科技有限公司 | Azelaic acid gel and preparation method and application thereof |
| IL299847A (en) | 2020-07-21 | 2023-03-01 | Chembeau LLC | Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof |
Family Cites Families (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4147782A (en) * | 1976-06-24 | 1979-04-03 | William H. Rorer, Inc. | Pharmaceutical detergent composition |
| FR2479819A1 (en) * | 1980-04-04 | 1981-10-09 | Fabre Sa Pierre | ZINC RETINOATE, PREPARATION AND TOPICAL COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING THE SAME |
| LU85789A1 (en) * | 1985-02-26 | 1986-09-02 | Oreal | USE IN THE THERAPEUTIC AND COSMETIC FIELDS OF AN ANHYDROUS SOLUTION OF HYDROGEN PEROXIDE |
| KR890001556A (en) * | 1987-07-01 | 1989-03-27 | 권선주 | Pharmaceutical composition |
| US4906305A (en) * | 1988-08-18 | 1990-03-06 | Allegheny Ludlum Corporation | Method of making a composite drawn article |
| US5145685A (en) * | 1991-04-08 | 1992-09-08 | Dow Corning Corporation | Skin treatment method and composition |
-
1993
- 1993-08-06 GB GB939316323A patent/GB9316323D0/en active Pending
-
1994
- 1994-08-05 CA CA 2168425 patent/CA2168425A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 1994-08-05 CN CN 94193324 patent/CN1130875A/en active Pending
- 1994-08-05 AU AU75206/94A patent/AU673623B2/en not_active Ceased
- 1994-08-05 CZ CZ96347A patent/CZ34796A3/en unknown
- 1994-08-05 JP JP7506527A patent/JPH09501176A/en active Pending
- 1994-08-05 WO PCT/US1994/008838 patent/WO1995004537A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1994-08-05 EP EP94925189A patent/EP0717627A4/en not_active Withdrawn
- 1994-10-22 TW TW83109792A patent/TW401306B/en active
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN1130875A (en) | 1996-09-11 |
| EP0717627A1 (en) | 1996-06-26 |
| CZ34796A3 (en) | 1996-07-17 |
| GB9316323D0 (en) | 1993-09-22 |
| AU673623B2 (en) | 1996-11-14 |
| WO1995004537A1 (en) | 1995-02-16 |
| JPH09501176A (en) | 1997-02-04 |
| EP0717627A4 (en) | 1997-09-10 |
| AU7520694A (en) | 1995-02-28 |
| TW401306B (en) | 2000-08-11 |
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Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| EEER | Examination request | ||
| FZDE | Dead |