CA2136319C - Cosmetic compositions - Google Patents
Cosmetic compositionsInfo
- Publication number
- CA2136319C CA2136319C CA002136319A CA2136319A CA2136319C CA 2136319 C CA2136319 C CA 2136319C CA 002136319 A CA002136319 A CA 002136319A CA 2136319 A CA2136319 A CA 2136319A CA 2136319 C CA2136319 C CA 2136319C
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- lubricant
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Abstract
A skin or hair care composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising humectant, a water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant, hydrophilic gelling agent and a polyethyleneglycol glyceryl fatty ester surfactant. The compositions provide improved moisturization, skin feel and skin care benefits, reduced tack and residue characteristics together with excellent visual clarity, rub-in and absorption characteristics.
Description
WO g3/24101 2 1 3 6 3 1 'i PC~/US93/04038 .'.
Cosmetic Com~ositions Technical Field The present invention relates to skin- and hair-care cosrnetic compositions. In particular it relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of aqueous gels or lotions which provide improved moisturization, skin feiel and skin care benefits, reduced taok and residu~ characteristics together with excellent visual clarity,rub-in and absorption characteristics.
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Background of the Inv~ntion Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protec~ the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the skelaton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum, is known to be composed of 25nm protein bundles surrounded; by 8nm thick layers. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and, by delipidlzation (i.e. removal of the lipids from the stratum - corneum), destroy its integrity. This destruction of the skin surface topography leads to a rough feei and may ~eventually permit the surfactant or so~lvent to interact with the keratin, creating irritation.
It ~is now recogniscd that maintaining the proper wàter gradient across~ the stratum corneum is impor ant~to its functiona!ity.~ ~ Most of this water, which is sometimes considered to be the stratum corneum's p!asticizer, comes from inside the body. If the humidity is too low, such as~in a cold climate, ' insufficient water remains in the outer layèrs of the stratum corneum to ~ ' properly plasticize the tissuè,~and the skin begins to scale and becomes itchy.
Skin permeability is also~decreiased somewhat when there i9 inadequate water across the stratum corneum. ;On ;the othet hand, too much water on the outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to ultirnately sorb three to fivetimes its own weight; of bound water. This swells~;and puckers the skin~ and results in approximately~a~two to three fold increase in the permeability of thesi~in to water and other polar molecules.
Hair consists of many of the same cons~i~uents as~ the stratum correum.~ The~
outermos~ region of-cells ~forms; a~rather thick~chemically~ resistant protective coating 0nclosing the~hair~fibre~which ~is called the~cuticle. The surfa~e of the ;cuticle is covered~with~a~thin~laye~r~called the epicuticle which is thought~to 2 1 3 ~ 3 1 ~J P(~/US~3/04038 '',~
contain lipids and protein. The cuticie envelopes the cortex cells which comprise the major part of the fibre mass. Keratinization takes place in the cortex to build stability into the hair structure.
Thus, a need exists for compositions which will assist the stratum corn~um and hair cutiole in maintaining their barrier and water-retention tunctions at optimum performance in spite of deleterious interactions which the skin and hair may encounter in washing, work, and recreation.
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Conventional cosmetic cream and iotion compositions as described, for example, in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science anci Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol.l, Wiley Interscience ~1972) and Encyclopaedia of Chemical T~chnology, Third Edition, Volume 7 are known to provide varying degreés of emolliency, barrier and water-retention (moisturizing) benefits. However, they can also suffer serious negatives in terms of skin feel ~i.e. they often feel very greasy bn theskin) as well as having poor rub-in, absorption and residue characteristics. In the case of hair-care compositions they can also suffer from resoiling negatives.
T he present invention therefore provides skin- and hair-care cosmetic compositions which provide improvements in moisturization, absorption, residue, tackiness, skin feel and skin care characteristics and which in particular provide improveci short and lon~er tèrm mois~urizing effectiveness, while at the same time avoiding depositing oily residues on the skin.
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Summarv of the Invention AccQrdirlgly, in one aspect of the present inv~ntion, thefe is provided ~a skin- or 'hair-care compasition in the torm of an aqueous gel or lotion comprising:
a) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight~of ai polyhydriç alcohol humectant, ~b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polygly~erylmethacrylata lubricant, ~ ;
ct from about 0.1 ~~O ~o about 20%~ by wei~ht of ~ a hydrophiiic gelling agent, and ~
(d) from about 0.~1% to about 10% ~by weight of a polyethyleneglyool glyceryl fatty ester surfactant having the formula (I) :: .
WO g3/24101 P~/IJS93/~4038 ' ' ~1363i ~
' ' 11 .
RCOCH2 CH ( OH ) CH~ ( OCH2 CH2 ) nOH .
wherein n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 2 to about ! "
200, and wherein R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms.
The compositions of this aspect of the present inYention ~on~ain four essential ingredients as well as various optional components as i~ndicated below. All levels and ratios are by weight of total composition, unless otherwise indicated.
Chain leng~h and degrees of ethoxylation are also specified on a weight average basis.
A first essential ingredient is a polyhydric alcohol humectant, a preferred humectant being glycerine (sometimes known as glycerol or glycerin).
Chemically, glycerine is 1,2,3- propanetriol and is a product of commerce. One Iarge source of the material is in the manufacture of soap. Polyhydric alcohol humec~ants other than glycerine which c~n be added herein include sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose and h~xan2triol.
In th~ prr~scnt compositions, the polyhydric alcohol hurnectant is present at a l~vel of from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about tO%, more preferably frorn about 2% to about 5% by weight of composition.
A secand essential component is a water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant. In general terms, suitable lubricants include those having a viscosity ~neat) of less than about 5000 mPa.s, preferably less ~han about 2~00 mPa.s, lubrican~s having a visoosity (neat) of at least about 50,000 mPa.s, plreferablyat l~ast about 80,000~mP~.s, and mixtures thereof (viscosities being measured with a Brook~i01d RVT at 20~C). More specifically, ~a preferred lubricant herein~
compr~ses a mixture of a first lubricant ~omponent having a viscosity (neat) of from about 200 to about SOOO mPa.s, preferably from about 700 to about 900 mPa.s, and a second lubricant compone~t havin~ a visc05ity (n~at) of a~ least about 200,000 mPa.s, preferably at least~about 500,000 mPa.s, wherein the weight ratio of first iubricant component to seeond lubricant component is f~om about 5:1 to about 1:2(), preferably from about 2~1 to about 1:15.
wo 93/24101 2 13 ~ 31~
The polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants which can be used in the compositions of this invention are available under the trademark Lubrajel (RTM) from~
Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, N.Y. 11787. In general, Lubrajels can be des~ribed as hydrates or clathrates which are formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acid polymer.
Thereafter, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with~a small arnount of propylene glycol, followed by controlled hydration of the resulting 'product.
Lubrajels are marketed in a number of grades of varying glycerate: polymer ratio and viscosity. Suitable Lubraje!s include Lubrajel'TW, Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel MS, Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV and so-called Lubraiel Oil. Preferred for use herein, however, is Lubrajel Oil which has a typical viscosity of about 800 mPa.s, Lubrajel DV which has a typical viscosity of about ~ 00,000 mPa.s and mixtures thereof.
In the present compositions, the polyglycerylmethacryiate lubricant is incorporated at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 8%, and more preferably from about 0.5% to about 6%
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by weight of composition. ~ I
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The compositions of the invention also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent at a -level preferably from about 0.1~~ to about 20%, more preferably from about .
0.2%~to about 2%, and~especially from about 0.3% to about 1%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20~C, Brookfield RVT~
of àt~least about 4000 mPa.s ~more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000 rnPa.s.' Suitable hydrophilic gell ng ag~ents can gener-lly~be described as water-solubleor colloidally water-so!y!b!e polymers, and include cellulose e~hers (e.g.
hy~roxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylalcohol, guar gum, ~hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum.
Preferred hydrophilic gelling agents herein, however, are acrylic acidfethyl acrylate copolymers and~the carboxyvinyl polymers~ sold ~by the B.F. Goodrich ompany under the trade ~mark of Carbopol resins. These resins consist essentially of ~a colloidally water-soluble polyalkenyi polyether crosslinked :.: ~ ~ .
WO 93/Z4101 213 6 ~19 PCr/US93/04038 ,j~' ,.', . ' ""
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palymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from 0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as ~or example polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol.
Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinl<ed with about 1% of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. A most preferred polymer is Carbopol 981 which has. an average molecular weight of about 1,250,000.
Also suitable for use herein are hydrophobically-modified cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid having amphipathic properties available under the Trade Name Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA Designation: Acrylatesl10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer). A combination of the polyalkenyl polyether cross-linked acrylic acid polymer and the hydrophobically modified cross-linked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable for use herein.
Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidic group containing hydrophilic gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, po~assium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolarnine.
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The compositions of th~ invention also contain from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 2% to about 4% by weight of polyethyleneglycol glyceryl fatty ester surfactant having the forrnula ~
:
o RcocH2cH(oH~ cH2 (ocH2cH2) noH
wherein n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 2 to about 200, preferably frlorr about 3 to abaut 80, more preferably from about 5 to about 15, and~
wher~in R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms, preferably from about 7 to~about~;20 carbon atoms.
The weight ratio of water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant to polyethyieneglyco! gl~ceryl fatty ester surfactant in the present composition isfrom about 5:1 to about 1:10, preferabiy from about 3:1 to about 1:3.
, WO 93/24101 213 5 ~ PCI'/US93/04038 ~, Suitable glyceryl fatty ester surfactants inc!ude polyethyleneglycol derivativesof glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl caproate, glyeeryl caprylate, glyceryl tallowate, glyceryl palmate, glyceryl stearate,'glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, gl~cerylricinoleate, and glyceryl fatty esters derived from triglycerides, such as evening primrose oil, palm oil, almond oil, and corn oil, preferably glyceryl caproate and glyceryl caprylate.
Suitable surfactants of this class are commercially available from Sherex Chemical Co. (Dublin, Ohio, USA) under their Varonic Ll line of surfactants.
These include, for example, Varonic Li 48 (polyethylene glycol (n = 80) glyceryl tallowate, alternatively referred to as PEG 80 glyceryl tailowatel, Varonic Ll 2 (PEG 28 glyceryl tallowate), Varonic Ll 420 (PRG 200 glyceryl tallowate), and Varonic Ll 63 and 67 ~PEG 30'and PEG 80 glyceryl cocoates), and from Croda Inc. (New York, USA) under their Crovol line of materials, such as Crovol A-40 tPEG 20 almond glyceride), Crovol A-70 (PEG 60 almond glyceride), Crovol M-40 (PEG 20 rnaize glyceridel, Crovol M-70 (PEG 60 maize glyceride), Crovol PK-40 ~PEG 1 2 palm kernel glyceride), Crovol PK-70 ~PEG 45 palm kernel glyceride) and Crovol EP-70 (PEt; 70 evening primrose glyceride).
Especi~lly preferred from the viewpoint of moisturizing effectiveness are rnonocaprylate and monocaproate fatty ester derivatives of polyethylene glycol, or mixtures thereof, particularly materia!s such as PEG (6) caprylic/capryl glycerate (Softigen 767). Also~ preferred for use herein are evenin~ primrose d~rived fatty acid ester surfactants, such as PEG ~70) evening primrose glycerides. In preferred;embodiments of the invention mixtures of glyceryl fattyester surfactants are used. ~Especially preferred embodiments include a mixture .
of a polyethylene~lycol glyceryl fatty ester surfactant having the formula (I) wherein n is from about 4 to about 20, preferably from about 5 to about 8 and wherein R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 7 to about 1 2 carbon atoms and a polyethyleneglycol glycery! fatty ester surfactant having the formula (I) wherein n is from about 30 to about 50, preferably from about 40 to about 8û and R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 1 2 to about Z2~ carbon atoms, preferably from about ~1 4 ~to about 20 carbon atoms. ~ ~
The compositions of the invention are in aqueous gel or lotion forrn and are preferably formulated so as to have a produ~t Yiscosity of at least about 4iOOO
rnPa~s and preferably~ in the range from about 4,00Q to about 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably from about 8,000 to ab~out ~200,000 mPa.s and especially from WO 93~24101 21 a 6 3 i ~3 P~fUS93/0403~ ~ .
''. ~ !
about 10,000 to about 50,000 mPa.s (25~C, neat, Brookfield RVT Spindle No.
5). Preferably the compositions are visually clear. The compositions are aiso preferably substan~ially free of oil, i.e. contain less than about 1%~ ar~d preferably less than about 0.1% of materials which are insoluble or which are not colloid ally-soluble in the aqueous gel matrix at 20~C. It is a feature of the present invention that the skin- or hair-care compositions provide excellent moisturizing effectiveness, despite the fact that they contain no or low levels of insoluble emollient oils. "Colloidally-soluble" herein refers to particles in the usual colloidal size range, typically from 1 to 1000 nm, especially from 1 to 500 nm. In highly preferred embodiments, the compositions are substantially free of materials which are insoluble or not colloidally-soluble in distilled water at 20~C. Such materials include many conventional emollient materials such as hydrocarbon oiis and waxes, glyceride esters, alkyl estersl alkenyl esters~ fatty alcohc~ls, certain fatty alcohol ethers and fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols, sterols extracted from lanolin, lanolin esters, wax esters, beeswax derivatives, vegetable waxes, phospholipids, sterols and amides. The compositions can, however, contain low levels of insoluble ingredients added, for ~xample for visual-effect purposes, e.g. thermochromic liquid crystalline materials SUCh as the microencapsulated cholesteryl esters and chiral nematic (non-sterol) based chemicals such as the (2-methylbutyl)phenyl 4- ' alk~ oxy)ben~oates available from Hallcrest, Glenview, Illinois 60025, U.S.A.
The addition of a proportion of insolubte silicone component is also envisaged~
herein, as described in detail below.
Other than the polyethyleneglycol glyceryl fatty ester surfactants, the compositions of the invention have no need of and are preferably substantiaily free of surfactant materials which are conventionally added to cosmetic cream and lotion compositions in order to ernulsify a water-insoluble oily phase.
A~ajn, "substantially free" means less than about 1%, ~preferably less thar!
about 0.1% of the indicated materials. Such emulsifiers include ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated esters, phosphated esters, ethoxylated fatty alcoholsi .-polyoxyethyiene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactyiates, soaps, etc.
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As mentioned above, the compositions of the invention can additionaily comprise from about 1.0% to about 10% ~y weight of a siiicone component consisting essentially of WO 93/24101 PCI/US93/04038 ~' 2 1 :3 6 ~
, 8 t (i) a siiicone having a mole~ular weight of from about 200,000 to ab~ut 600,000 selected from dirnethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone and rnixtures thereof; and (ii) a silicons-based carrier havin~ a viscosity from about 0.65 mPa.s to about 10'0 mPa.s wherein the ratio of i) to il) is from abou~ 10:90 to about 20:80 and wherein said silicone component has a final viscositY of from about 500 mPa.s to about'10,000 mPa.s. ; ~
Dimethiconol-based silicones suitable for use herein have the chernical structure H0(CH3)zSiO[(CH3~2sio]n(cH3)2sioH
where n is from about 2700~to about 4500, preferably from about 3200 to about 4300 and most preferably from about;; 4000~to 'about 4300. The ~
dimethiconol has a molecular weight of from abo~ùt~20~),000;to about 3Q0,000, preferably frorn about 240,000 to about 260,000 and most preferably~about 250,000.
The~;fluorosilicones~useful herein have;a molecular~weight of from~about 200,000 to about 300,000~, preferably~from about 240,000 to about 260,0Q0 an~ most preferably about'250i000.;
The dimethicones include ~silioone gurns~as describ~ed~ by Petrarch and others lC,Illdi!n9 US-A-~,152~416, May 1, 1979 to'Spitzer,~et al, and~Noll, Walter,~
Chemistry and Technology of Silicones. NewYork: A~cademic Press 1968. ';Also~
dcscribing silicone~gums-are;~Ge~neral Electri~Siiicone~Rubber Pr~duct'~Data~ c Sheets SE 30, ~SE 33, ~SE~54~and SE~ 7~6. ~'Si!iconè gumn materials useful~ herein~
denote~high molecula f weight materials~having~ia ~mote~ular weight of from about 200,00'0~to~about 600,000. ~5pecific~examples~1r~clude~
polydimethylsiloxane,~(polydimethylsiloxane~ methylvinylsiloxane! copolymer,~
polytdimethylsiloxane) ~diphenyl~ (methylvinylsii~xane~ copotymer~ and mixtures wn 93/24101 213 ~; 3 1 9 PCI'/US93/04038 '~
The silicone-based carriers suitable for use herein include certain silicone fluids.
The silicone fluid can be either a polyalkyl siloxane, a polyaryl siloxane, a polyalkylaryl siloxane or a polyether siloxane copolymer and is present at a level of from about 0.1% ~o about 10.0%, preferably from about 0.5~/0 to about 5.0% by weight of the silicone component. Mixtures of these fluids can ~-also be ùsed and are preferred in certain executions.
The polyalkyl siloxane fluids that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging frorr about 5 to 600,000 mm2.s-1 at 25~C~ These siioxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as the Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. The essentially non-volatile polyalkylarylsiioxane fluids that can be used include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, having viscosities of about 0.65 to 30,000 ' mm2.s-1 at 25~C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company ~s SF 1075 methyl pheny3 f!uid or from Dow Corning as ~56 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
Also suitable for use herein are certain volatile cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes having a ring structure incorporating from about 3 to about 7 (CH3)2SiO
moisties.
The viscosit~ can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 29, 1970.
Preferably the viscosity ranges from about 3500 mm2.s~1 to about 100,000 mm2,S~
The most preferred silicone component for use herein is a dimethiconol gum having a molecular weight of from a~out~ 240,000 to about 260,000 along vvith a silicone carrier with a ~iscosity of about 5 mm2.s~1. An example of this silicone component is Dow Q2-14:)3 fluid ~85% 5 mm2.s~1 Dimethyl Fluid/~5%
Dimethiconol) available from Dow Corning. ~ ~
A number o~ additionai water-soluble materials can be added to the compositions of the invention. A highly preferred additional ingredien~ from theviewpoint of skin feel and tack reduction is a fluid copolymer of ethylene oxideand propylene oxide having a viscosity in the range of from 5~ to 300,000 WO 93/24101 P~/US93/0403~ ''~' .'' 213~.~1.3 Saybolt Universal Seconds [S.U.S.l, preferably from 100 to 2,000 S.U.S. at 38~C, for example Ucon Fluid 75-H 450.
Another optional but preferred ingredien~ of the compnsitions of the invention is trimethylglycine, otherwise sometimes known as betaine. Trim0thylg!ycine is valuable herein from the viewpoint of providing improved skin feel and tack reduction. In the present compositions, trimethylglycine is preferably present at a level of from about 1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 3% to about 7% by weight.
The compositions of the invention can also contain from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5% of a panthenol moisturizer. The panthenol moisturizer can be selected from D-pan~henol ([Rl-2,4-dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]-3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine, pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyl lactose and Vitamin B complex. Highly preferred from the viewpoint of skin care and tack reduction is D-panthenol. ~
The compositions of the present invention can additionally comprise from about 0.001% to about 0.5%, preferably from about 0.002% to about 0.05%, more preferably from about 0.005% to about 0.02% by weight of carboxymethylchitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide which is present in ~he integument of lobsters and crabs and is a mucopolysacGharide having beta (1-4) linkages of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. Carboxyrnethylchitin is prepared by treating th~ purifie~ chitin material with alkali~followed by monochloracetic acid. It is sold commercially in the form of a dilute (approximately 0.1 % to 0~5% by wei~ht) aqueous solution under the name Chitin Liquid available from A & E Connock Ltd., Fordingbridge, Hampshire, England.
Oth~r optional materials include keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid;
proteins and polypeptides ~nd derivatives thereof; water-soluble or solubilizable preservatives such as Germall 115, methyl,~ethyi, propvl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM~ K~OO, Bromopol ~2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; anti-bacterials such as Irgasan ~RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferabty at levels of frorn 0.2% to about 5%):
soluble or colloidally solubi~ moisturising agents such as hvlaronic acid and starch-graftad sodium polyacrylates such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 available from Ceianese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, ~ ~ :
WO 93/24101 2 1 :~ 6 ~ 1 ~3 PCI'/US93/04038 ' .:''' ' !
11 '' USA and described in USA-A-4,076,663; colouring agents; perfumes and perfume solubilizers etc. Water is also present at a level of from about 50% to about 99~2%, preferably from about 80% to about 95% by weight of the <:
compositions herein.
The pH of the compositions is preferably from about 4 to about 9, more preferably from about 4.5 to about 7, the pH being controlled where necessary through the use of pH buffers such as cilric acid/scdium ci~rate.
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~: ' ' ' ';:~' 2 1 3 6 ~ Pcr/Us93/04038 ,~J
The invention is illustrated by the following examples.
Exam~les I to V
t ll lll IV V
D-Panthenol 2 - - - 3 Glycerine 3 2 6 5 3 Lubrajel Oil 0~5 0.5 2.0 0.5 0.5 Lubrajel DV 5.0 1.0 - 5.0 PEG-6 capric/caprylic glyceride 2.00 3.0 1.0 4.0 5.0 PEG~70 evening primrose ~Iyceride 1.00 - ' 2.0 Q2 1403 Silicone - 3 '.00 ~ - -Carbopol 981 0.5 0.4 0.6 0.4 0.4 Chitin Liquid 0.006 - - - -Pemulen TR-1 - 0.4 - 0.3 0.3 Sodium hydroxide 0.25 0.25 0.3 0.2 0.2 Methyl parabens 0.1 0.1 ~ 0.1 0.1 0.1 Germall 115 0.2 - 0.2 - 0.~! ~
Hexylene giycol 2 - - - 2 :' Phenoxyethanol - ~- - 0.25 Butylene Glycol 2.0 2.0 ~ 2.0 Perfume Oils 0.001 0.001 S 0.001 O.OO t O.0006 Deionised Water To 100 , :
~ ~ The compositions are made by mixing at ambient temperature. ,~
.
The compositions display improved moisturization, skin feel, skin care and residu~ characteristics together with excetlent~emolliency, rub-in and~ a~bsorption characteristics.
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': ' : ' ' : : :
:~,: ~ . :
Cosmetic Com~ositions Technical Field The present invention relates to skin- and hair-care cosrnetic compositions. In particular it relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of aqueous gels or lotions which provide improved moisturization, skin feiel and skin care benefits, reduced taok and residu~ characteristics together with excellent visual clarity,rub-in and absorption characteristics.
,.
Background of the Inv~ntion Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protec~ the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the skelaton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum, is known to be composed of 25nm protein bundles surrounded; by 8nm thick layers. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and, by delipidlzation (i.e. removal of the lipids from the stratum - corneum), destroy its integrity. This destruction of the skin surface topography leads to a rough feei and may ~eventually permit the surfactant or so~lvent to interact with the keratin, creating irritation.
It ~is now recogniscd that maintaining the proper wàter gradient across~ the stratum corneum is impor ant~to its functiona!ity.~ ~ Most of this water, which is sometimes considered to be the stratum corneum's p!asticizer, comes from inside the body. If the humidity is too low, such as~in a cold climate, ' insufficient water remains in the outer layèrs of the stratum corneum to ~ ' properly plasticize the tissuè,~and the skin begins to scale and becomes itchy.
Skin permeability is also~decreiased somewhat when there i9 inadequate water across the stratum corneum. ;On ;the othet hand, too much water on the outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to ultirnately sorb three to fivetimes its own weight; of bound water. This swells~;and puckers the skin~ and results in approximately~a~two to three fold increase in the permeability of thesi~in to water and other polar molecules.
Hair consists of many of the same cons~i~uents as~ the stratum correum.~ The~
outermos~ region of-cells ~forms; a~rather thick~chemically~ resistant protective coating 0nclosing the~hair~fibre~which ~is called the~cuticle. The surfa~e of the ;cuticle is covered~with~a~thin~laye~r~called the epicuticle which is thought~to 2 1 3 ~ 3 1 ~J P(~/US~3/04038 '',~
contain lipids and protein. The cuticie envelopes the cortex cells which comprise the major part of the fibre mass. Keratinization takes place in the cortex to build stability into the hair structure.
Thus, a need exists for compositions which will assist the stratum corn~um and hair cutiole in maintaining their barrier and water-retention tunctions at optimum performance in spite of deleterious interactions which the skin and hair may encounter in washing, work, and recreation.
:
Conventional cosmetic cream and iotion compositions as described, for example, in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science anci Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol.l, Wiley Interscience ~1972) and Encyclopaedia of Chemical T~chnology, Third Edition, Volume 7 are known to provide varying degreés of emolliency, barrier and water-retention (moisturizing) benefits. However, they can also suffer serious negatives in terms of skin feel ~i.e. they often feel very greasy bn theskin) as well as having poor rub-in, absorption and residue characteristics. In the case of hair-care compositions they can also suffer from resoiling negatives.
T he present invention therefore provides skin- and hair-care cosmetic compositions which provide improvements in moisturization, absorption, residue, tackiness, skin feel and skin care characteristics and which in particular provide improveci short and lon~er tèrm mois~urizing effectiveness, while at the same time avoiding depositing oily residues on the skin.
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Summarv of the Invention AccQrdirlgly, in one aspect of the present inv~ntion, thefe is provided ~a skin- or 'hair-care compasition in the torm of an aqueous gel or lotion comprising:
a) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight~of ai polyhydriç alcohol humectant, ~b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polygly~erylmethacrylata lubricant, ~ ;
ct from about 0.1 ~~O ~o about 20%~ by wei~ht of ~ a hydrophiiic gelling agent, and ~
(d) from about 0.~1% to about 10% ~by weight of a polyethyleneglyool glyceryl fatty ester surfactant having the formula (I) :: .
WO g3/24101 P~/IJS93/~4038 ' ' ~1363i ~
' ' 11 .
RCOCH2 CH ( OH ) CH~ ( OCH2 CH2 ) nOH .
wherein n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 2 to about ! "
200, and wherein R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms.
The compositions of this aspect of the present inYention ~on~ain four essential ingredients as well as various optional components as i~ndicated below. All levels and ratios are by weight of total composition, unless otherwise indicated.
Chain leng~h and degrees of ethoxylation are also specified on a weight average basis.
A first essential ingredient is a polyhydric alcohol humectant, a preferred humectant being glycerine (sometimes known as glycerol or glycerin).
Chemically, glycerine is 1,2,3- propanetriol and is a product of commerce. One Iarge source of the material is in the manufacture of soap. Polyhydric alcohol humec~ants other than glycerine which c~n be added herein include sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose and h~xan2triol.
In th~ prr~scnt compositions, the polyhydric alcohol hurnectant is present at a l~vel of from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about tO%, more preferably frorn about 2% to about 5% by weight of composition.
A secand essential component is a water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant. In general terms, suitable lubricants include those having a viscosity ~neat) of less than about 5000 mPa.s, preferably less ~han about 2~00 mPa.s, lubrican~s having a visoosity (neat) of at least about 50,000 mPa.s, plreferablyat l~ast about 80,000~mP~.s, and mixtures thereof (viscosities being measured with a Brook~i01d RVT at 20~C). More specifically, ~a preferred lubricant herein~
compr~ses a mixture of a first lubricant ~omponent having a viscosity (neat) of from about 200 to about SOOO mPa.s, preferably from about 700 to about 900 mPa.s, and a second lubricant compone~t havin~ a visc05ity (n~at) of a~ least about 200,000 mPa.s, preferably at least~about 500,000 mPa.s, wherein the weight ratio of first iubricant component to seeond lubricant component is f~om about 5:1 to about 1:2(), preferably from about 2~1 to about 1:15.
wo 93/24101 2 13 ~ 31~
The polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants which can be used in the compositions of this invention are available under the trademark Lubrajel (RTM) from~
Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, N.Y. 11787. In general, Lubrajels can be des~ribed as hydrates or clathrates which are formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acid polymer.
Thereafter, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with~a small arnount of propylene glycol, followed by controlled hydration of the resulting 'product.
Lubrajels are marketed in a number of grades of varying glycerate: polymer ratio and viscosity. Suitable Lubraje!s include Lubrajel'TW, Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel MS, Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV and so-called Lubraiel Oil. Preferred for use herein, however, is Lubrajel Oil which has a typical viscosity of about 800 mPa.s, Lubrajel DV which has a typical viscosity of about ~ 00,000 mPa.s and mixtures thereof.
In the present compositions, the polyglycerylmethacryiate lubricant is incorporated at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 8%, and more preferably from about 0.5% to about 6%
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by weight of composition. ~ I
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The compositions of the invention also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent at a -level preferably from about 0.1~~ to about 20%, more preferably from about .
0.2%~to about 2%, and~especially from about 0.3% to about 1%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20~C, Brookfield RVT~
of àt~least about 4000 mPa.s ~more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000 rnPa.s.' Suitable hydrophilic gell ng ag~ents can gener-lly~be described as water-solubleor colloidally water-so!y!b!e polymers, and include cellulose e~hers (e.g.
hy~roxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylalcohol, guar gum, ~hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum.
Preferred hydrophilic gelling agents herein, however, are acrylic acidfethyl acrylate copolymers and~the carboxyvinyl polymers~ sold ~by the B.F. Goodrich ompany under the trade ~mark of Carbopol resins. These resins consist essentially of ~a colloidally water-soluble polyalkenyi polyether crosslinked :.: ~ ~ .
WO 93/Z4101 213 6 ~19 PCr/US93/04038 ,j~' ,.', . ' ""
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palymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from 0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as ~or example polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol.
Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinl<ed with about 1% of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. A most preferred polymer is Carbopol 981 which has. an average molecular weight of about 1,250,000.
Also suitable for use herein are hydrophobically-modified cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid having amphipathic properties available under the Trade Name Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA Designation: Acrylatesl10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer). A combination of the polyalkenyl polyether cross-linked acrylic acid polymer and the hydrophobically modified cross-linked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable for use herein.
Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidic group containing hydrophilic gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, po~assium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolarnine.
~:
The compositions of th~ invention also contain from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 2% to about 4% by weight of polyethyleneglycol glyceryl fatty ester surfactant having the forrnula ~
:
o RcocH2cH(oH~ cH2 (ocH2cH2) noH
wherein n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 2 to about 200, preferably frlorr about 3 to abaut 80, more preferably from about 5 to about 15, and~
wher~in R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms, preferably from about 7 to~about~;20 carbon atoms.
The weight ratio of water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant to polyethyieneglyco! gl~ceryl fatty ester surfactant in the present composition isfrom about 5:1 to about 1:10, preferabiy from about 3:1 to about 1:3.
, WO 93/24101 213 5 ~ PCI'/US93/04038 ~, Suitable glyceryl fatty ester surfactants inc!ude polyethyleneglycol derivativesof glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl caproate, glyeeryl caprylate, glyceryl tallowate, glyceryl palmate, glyceryl stearate,'glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, gl~cerylricinoleate, and glyceryl fatty esters derived from triglycerides, such as evening primrose oil, palm oil, almond oil, and corn oil, preferably glyceryl caproate and glyceryl caprylate.
Suitable surfactants of this class are commercially available from Sherex Chemical Co. (Dublin, Ohio, USA) under their Varonic Ll line of surfactants.
These include, for example, Varonic Li 48 (polyethylene glycol (n = 80) glyceryl tallowate, alternatively referred to as PEG 80 glyceryl tailowatel, Varonic Ll 2 (PEG 28 glyceryl tallowate), Varonic Ll 420 (PRG 200 glyceryl tallowate), and Varonic Ll 63 and 67 ~PEG 30'and PEG 80 glyceryl cocoates), and from Croda Inc. (New York, USA) under their Crovol line of materials, such as Crovol A-40 tPEG 20 almond glyceride), Crovol A-70 (PEG 60 almond glyceride), Crovol M-40 (PEG 20 rnaize glyceridel, Crovol M-70 (PEG 60 maize glyceride), Crovol PK-40 ~PEG 1 2 palm kernel glyceride), Crovol PK-70 ~PEG 45 palm kernel glyceride) and Crovol EP-70 (PEt; 70 evening primrose glyceride).
Especi~lly preferred from the viewpoint of moisturizing effectiveness are rnonocaprylate and monocaproate fatty ester derivatives of polyethylene glycol, or mixtures thereof, particularly materia!s such as PEG (6) caprylic/capryl glycerate (Softigen 767). Also~ preferred for use herein are evenin~ primrose d~rived fatty acid ester surfactants, such as PEG ~70) evening primrose glycerides. In preferred;embodiments of the invention mixtures of glyceryl fattyester surfactants are used. ~Especially preferred embodiments include a mixture .
of a polyethylene~lycol glyceryl fatty ester surfactant having the formula (I) wherein n is from about 4 to about 20, preferably from about 5 to about 8 and wherein R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 7 to about 1 2 carbon atoms and a polyethyleneglycol glycery! fatty ester surfactant having the formula (I) wherein n is from about 30 to about 50, preferably from about 40 to about 8û and R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 1 2 to about Z2~ carbon atoms, preferably from about ~1 4 ~to about 20 carbon atoms. ~ ~
The compositions of the invention are in aqueous gel or lotion forrn and are preferably formulated so as to have a produ~t Yiscosity of at least about 4iOOO
rnPa~s and preferably~ in the range from about 4,00Q to about 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably from about 8,000 to ab~out ~200,000 mPa.s and especially from WO 93~24101 21 a 6 3 i ~3 P~fUS93/0403~ ~ .
''. ~ !
about 10,000 to about 50,000 mPa.s (25~C, neat, Brookfield RVT Spindle No.
5). Preferably the compositions are visually clear. The compositions are aiso preferably substan~ially free of oil, i.e. contain less than about 1%~ ar~d preferably less than about 0.1% of materials which are insoluble or which are not colloid ally-soluble in the aqueous gel matrix at 20~C. It is a feature of the present invention that the skin- or hair-care compositions provide excellent moisturizing effectiveness, despite the fact that they contain no or low levels of insoluble emollient oils. "Colloidally-soluble" herein refers to particles in the usual colloidal size range, typically from 1 to 1000 nm, especially from 1 to 500 nm. In highly preferred embodiments, the compositions are substantially free of materials which are insoluble or not colloidally-soluble in distilled water at 20~C. Such materials include many conventional emollient materials such as hydrocarbon oiis and waxes, glyceride esters, alkyl estersl alkenyl esters~ fatty alcohc~ls, certain fatty alcohol ethers and fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols, sterols extracted from lanolin, lanolin esters, wax esters, beeswax derivatives, vegetable waxes, phospholipids, sterols and amides. The compositions can, however, contain low levels of insoluble ingredients added, for ~xample for visual-effect purposes, e.g. thermochromic liquid crystalline materials SUCh as the microencapsulated cholesteryl esters and chiral nematic (non-sterol) based chemicals such as the (2-methylbutyl)phenyl 4- ' alk~ oxy)ben~oates available from Hallcrest, Glenview, Illinois 60025, U.S.A.
The addition of a proportion of insolubte silicone component is also envisaged~
herein, as described in detail below.
Other than the polyethyleneglycol glyceryl fatty ester surfactants, the compositions of the invention have no need of and are preferably substantiaily free of surfactant materials which are conventionally added to cosmetic cream and lotion compositions in order to ernulsify a water-insoluble oily phase.
A~ajn, "substantially free" means less than about 1%, ~preferably less thar!
about 0.1% of the indicated materials. Such emulsifiers include ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated esters, phosphated esters, ethoxylated fatty alcoholsi .-polyoxyethyiene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactyiates, soaps, etc.
:
As mentioned above, the compositions of the invention can additionaily comprise from about 1.0% to about 10% ~y weight of a siiicone component consisting essentially of WO 93/24101 PCI/US93/04038 ~' 2 1 :3 6 ~
, 8 t (i) a siiicone having a mole~ular weight of from about 200,000 to ab~ut 600,000 selected from dirnethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone and rnixtures thereof; and (ii) a silicons-based carrier havin~ a viscosity from about 0.65 mPa.s to about 10'0 mPa.s wherein the ratio of i) to il) is from abou~ 10:90 to about 20:80 and wherein said silicone component has a final viscositY of from about 500 mPa.s to about'10,000 mPa.s. ; ~
Dimethiconol-based silicones suitable for use herein have the chernical structure H0(CH3)zSiO[(CH3~2sio]n(cH3)2sioH
where n is from about 2700~to about 4500, preferably from about 3200 to about 4300 and most preferably from about;; 4000~to 'about 4300. The ~
dimethiconol has a molecular weight of from abo~ùt~20~),000;to about 3Q0,000, preferably frorn about 240,000 to about 260,000 and most preferably~about 250,000.
The~;fluorosilicones~useful herein have;a molecular~weight of from~about 200,000 to about 300,000~, preferably~from about 240,000 to about 260,0Q0 an~ most preferably about'250i000.;
The dimethicones include ~silioone gurns~as describ~ed~ by Petrarch and others lC,Illdi!n9 US-A-~,152~416, May 1, 1979 to'Spitzer,~et al, and~Noll, Walter,~
Chemistry and Technology of Silicones. NewYork: A~cademic Press 1968. ';Also~
dcscribing silicone~gums-are;~Ge~neral Electri~Siiicone~Rubber Pr~duct'~Data~ c Sheets SE 30, ~SE 33, ~SE~54~and SE~ 7~6. ~'Si!iconè gumn materials useful~ herein~
denote~high molecula f weight materials~having~ia ~mote~ular weight of from about 200,00'0~to~about 600,000. ~5pecific~examples~1r~clude~
polydimethylsiloxane,~(polydimethylsiloxane~ methylvinylsiloxane! copolymer,~
polytdimethylsiloxane) ~diphenyl~ (methylvinylsii~xane~ copotymer~ and mixtures wn 93/24101 213 ~; 3 1 9 PCI'/US93/04038 '~
The silicone-based carriers suitable for use herein include certain silicone fluids.
The silicone fluid can be either a polyalkyl siloxane, a polyaryl siloxane, a polyalkylaryl siloxane or a polyether siloxane copolymer and is present at a level of from about 0.1% ~o about 10.0%, preferably from about 0.5~/0 to about 5.0% by weight of the silicone component. Mixtures of these fluids can ~-also be ùsed and are preferred in certain executions.
The polyalkyl siloxane fluids that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging frorr about 5 to 600,000 mm2.s-1 at 25~C~ These siioxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as the Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. The essentially non-volatile polyalkylarylsiioxane fluids that can be used include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, having viscosities of about 0.65 to 30,000 ' mm2.s-1 at 25~C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company ~s SF 1075 methyl pheny3 f!uid or from Dow Corning as ~56 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
Also suitable for use herein are certain volatile cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes having a ring structure incorporating from about 3 to about 7 (CH3)2SiO
moisties.
The viscosit~ can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 29, 1970.
Preferably the viscosity ranges from about 3500 mm2.s~1 to about 100,000 mm2,S~
The most preferred silicone component for use herein is a dimethiconol gum having a molecular weight of from a~out~ 240,000 to about 260,000 along vvith a silicone carrier with a ~iscosity of about 5 mm2.s~1. An example of this silicone component is Dow Q2-14:)3 fluid ~85% 5 mm2.s~1 Dimethyl Fluid/~5%
Dimethiconol) available from Dow Corning. ~ ~
A number o~ additionai water-soluble materials can be added to the compositions of the invention. A highly preferred additional ingredien~ from theviewpoint of skin feel and tack reduction is a fluid copolymer of ethylene oxideand propylene oxide having a viscosity in the range of from 5~ to 300,000 WO 93/24101 P~/US93/0403~ ''~' .'' 213~.~1.3 Saybolt Universal Seconds [S.U.S.l, preferably from 100 to 2,000 S.U.S. at 38~C, for example Ucon Fluid 75-H 450.
Another optional but preferred ingredien~ of the compnsitions of the invention is trimethylglycine, otherwise sometimes known as betaine. Trim0thylg!ycine is valuable herein from the viewpoint of providing improved skin feel and tack reduction. In the present compositions, trimethylglycine is preferably present at a level of from about 1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 3% to about 7% by weight.
The compositions of the invention can also contain from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5% of a panthenol moisturizer. The panthenol moisturizer can be selected from D-pan~henol ([Rl-2,4-dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]-3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine, pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyl lactose and Vitamin B complex. Highly preferred from the viewpoint of skin care and tack reduction is D-panthenol. ~
The compositions of the present invention can additionally comprise from about 0.001% to about 0.5%, preferably from about 0.002% to about 0.05%, more preferably from about 0.005% to about 0.02% by weight of carboxymethylchitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide which is present in ~he integument of lobsters and crabs and is a mucopolysacGharide having beta (1-4) linkages of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. Carboxyrnethylchitin is prepared by treating th~ purifie~ chitin material with alkali~followed by monochloracetic acid. It is sold commercially in the form of a dilute (approximately 0.1 % to 0~5% by wei~ht) aqueous solution under the name Chitin Liquid available from A & E Connock Ltd., Fordingbridge, Hampshire, England.
Oth~r optional materials include keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid;
proteins and polypeptides ~nd derivatives thereof; water-soluble or solubilizable preservatives such as Germall 115, methyl,~ethyi, propvl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM~ K~OO, Bromopol ~2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; anti-bacterials such as Irgasan ~RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferabty at levels of frorn 0.2% to about 5%):
soluble or colloidally solubi~ moisturising agents such as hvlaronic acid and starch-graftad sodium polyacrylates such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 available from Ceianese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, ~ ~ :
WO 93/24101 2 1 :~ 6 ~ 1 ~3 PCI'/US93/04038 ' .:''' ' !
11 '' USA and described in USA-A-4,076,663; colouring agents; perfumes and perfume solubilizers etc. Water is also present at a level of from about 50% to about 99~2%, preferably from about 80% to about 95% by weight of the <:
compositions herein.
The pH of the compositions is preferably from about 4 to about 9, more preferably from about 4.5 to about 7, the pH being controlled where necessary through the use of pH buffers such as cilric acid/scdium ci~rate.
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~: ' ' ' ';:~' 2 1 3 6 ~ Pcr/Us93/04038 ,~J
The invention is illustrated by the following examples.
Exam~les I to V
t ll lll IV V
D-Panthenol 2 - - - 3 Glycerine 3 2 6 5 3 Lubrajel Oil 0~5 0.5 2.0 0.5 0.5 Lubrajel DV 5.0 1.0 - 5.0 PEG-6 capric/caprylic glyceride 2.00 3.0 1.0 4.0 5.0 PEG~70 evening primrose ~Iyceride 1.00 - ' 2.0 Q2 1403 Silicone - 3 '.00 ~ - -Carbopol 981 0.5 0.4 0.6 0.4 0.4 Chitin Liquid 0.006 - - - -Pemulen TR-1 - 0.4 - 0.3 0.3 Sodium hydroxide 0.25 0.25 0.3 0.2 0.2 Methyl parabens 0.1 0.1 ~ 0.1 0.1 0.1 Germall 115 0.2 - 0.2 - 0.~! ~
Hexylene giycol 2 - - - 2 :' Phenoxyethanol - ~- - 0.25 Butylene Glycol 2.0 2.0 ~ 2.0 Perfume Oils 0.001 0.001 S 0.001 O.OO t O.0006 Deionised Water To 100 , :
~ ~ The compositions are made by mixing at ambient temperature. ,~
.
The compositions display improved moisturization, skin feel, skin care and residu~ characteristics together with excetlent~emolliency, rub-in and~ a~bsorption characteristics.
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Claims (15)
PROPERTY OR PRIVILEGE IS CLAIMED ARE DEFINED AS FOLLOWS:
1. A skin or hair care composition in the form of an aqueous gel or lotion comprising:
(a) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol humectant, (b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant, (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent; and (d) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a polyethyleneglycol glyceryl fatty ester surfactant having the formula wherein n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 2 to about 200, and wherein R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms.
(a) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol humectant, (b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant, (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent; and (d) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a polyethyleneglycol glyceryl fatty ester surfactant having the formula wherein n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 2 to about 200, and wherein R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms.
2. A composition according to claim 1 comprising from about 1% to about 10%, preferably from about 2% to about 6% by weight of the polyhydric alcohol humectant.
3. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant is a hydrate or clathrate formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acid polymer.
4. A composition according to claim 3 wherein the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant is selected from the group consisting of lubricants having a viscosity (neat) of less than about 5000 mPa.s, lubricants having a viscosity (neat) of at least about 50,000 mPa.s, and mixtures thereof, viscosities being measured with a Brookfield RVT, at 20°C.
5. A composition according claim 4 comprising from about 0.2% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 6% by weight of the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant.
6. A composition according to Claim 5 wherein the water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant comprises a mixture of a first lubricant component having a viscosity (neat) of from about 200 to about 5000 mPa.s, preferably from about 700 to about 900 mPa.s, and a second lubricant component having a viscosity (neat) of at least about 200,000 mPa.s, preferably at least about 500,000 mPa.s, wherein the weight ratio of first lubricant component to second lubricant component is from about 5:1 to about 1:20, preferably from about 2:1 to about 1:15.
7. A composition according to Claim 1 comprising from about 0.5% to about 8%, preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the polyethyleneglycol glyceryl fatty ester surfactant.
8. A composition according to Claim 1 wherein the weight ratio of water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant to polyethyleneglycol glyceryl fatty ester surfactant is from about 5.1 to about 1:10, preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:3.
9. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 8 having a viscosity (25°C, neat, Brookfield RVT, Spindle No. 5) of from about 4000 to about 300,000 mPa.s, preferably from about 10,000 to about 50,000 mPa.s.
10. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the gelling agent has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20°C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa.s, preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s.
11. A composition according to claim 10 wherein the gelling agent comprises a carboxyvinyl polymer, preferably a colloidally water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid cross-linked with from about 0.75% to about 2.0% of a cross-linking agent selected from polyallyl sucrose and polyallyl pentaerythritol.
12. A composition according to claim 10 wherein the gelling agent comprises a hydrophobically-modified cross-linked polymer of acrylic acid having amphipathic properties.
13. A composition according to claim 10 comprising from about 0.2% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.3% to about 1% of the gelling agent.
14. A composition according to claim 1 which is substantially oil-free.
15. A composition according to claim 1 additionally comprising from about 1.0% to about 10% by weight of a silicone component consisting essentially of (i) a silicone having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 600,000 selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone and mixtures thereof; and (ii) a silicone-based carrier having a viscosity from about 0.65 mPa.s to about 100 mPa.s;
wherein the ratio of i) to ii) is from about 10:90 to about 20:80 and wherein said silicone component has a final viscosity of from about 500 mPa.s to about 10,000 mPa.s.
wherein the ratio of i) to ii) is from about 10:90 to about 20:80 and wherein said silicone component has a final viscosity of from about 500 mPa.s to about 10,000 mPa.s.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| GB9210966.9 | 1992-05-22 | ||
| GB929210966A GB9210966D0 (en) | 1992-05-22 | 1992-05-22 | Cosmetic compositions |
| PCT/US1993/004038 WO1993024101A1 (en) | 1992-05-22 | 1993-04-29 | Cosmetic compositions |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA2136319A1 CA2136319A1 (en) | 1993-12-09 |
| CA2136319C true CA2136319C (en) | 1998-12-29 |
Family
ID=10715916
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA002136319A Expired - Fee Related CA2136319C (en) | 1992-05-22 | 1993-04-29 | Cosmetic compositions |
Country Status (4)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0641189A4 (en) |
| CA (1) | CA2136319C (en) |
| GB (1) | GB9210966D0 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO1993024101A1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GB2275419B (en) * | 1993-02-27 | 1996-11-13 | Procter & Gamble | Silicone-based oil-in-water cosmetic compositions |
| DE4440315A1 (en) * | 1994-11-11 | 1996-05-15 | Henkel Kgaa | Hair regenerating preparations |
| FR2735023B1 (en) * | 1995-06-06 | 1997-07-18 | Sederma Sa | NEW SLIMMING COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS |
| DE19547679A1 (en) * | 1995-12-20 | 1997-06-26 | Wella Ag | Hair care emulsion |
| DE69713904T2 (en) * | 1996-02-21 | 2003-01-30 | Stoa Sa | COSMETIC, DERMOPHARMACEUTICAL OR VETERINARY COMPOSITIONS FOR ANTISEPTIC TREATMENT OF HUMAN OR ANIMAL SKIN |
| DK1056338T3 (en) * | 1998-02-26 | 2006-03-20 | Pro Ren As | Low alcohol gel disinfectant |
| US6642198B2 (en) | 1998-12-16 | 2003-11-04 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. | Clear cleansing detergent systems |
| WO2002058665A1 (en) * | 2001-01-25 | 2002-08-01 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Skin care composition |
| US6495149B1 (en) | 2001-08-10 | 2002-12-17 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Topical leave-on compositions containing selected pantothenic acid derivatives |
| WO2018056989A1 (en) | 2016-09-22 | 2018-03-29 | Colgate-Palmolive Company | Personal care gel and method |
Family Cites Families (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LU76955A1 (en) * | 1977-03-15 | 1978-10-18 | ||
| US4863725A (en) * | 1982-10-27 | 1989-09-05 | Deckner George E | Novel clear oil-free moisturizer composition |
| US4686254A (en) * | 1985-08-05 | 1987-08-11 | The B. F. Goodrich Company | Suspension composition for aqueous surfactant systems |
| US4690818A (en) * | 1986-02-03 | 1987-09-01 | Charles Of The Ritz Group Ltd. | Shampoo and bath and shower gel |
| US4837019A (en) * | 1986-08-11 | 1989-06-06 | Charles Of The Ritz Group Ltd. | Skin treatment composition and method for treating burned skin |
| JPS63135177A (en) * | 1986-11-28 | 1988-06-07 | 大洋香料株式会社 | Transparent gel like aromatic composition |
| US4885659A (en) * | 1987-12-21 | 1989-12-05 | Pandel, Inc. | Static dissipative mat |
| GB9002290D0 (en) * | 1990-02-01 | 1990-03-28 | Procter & Gamble | Cosmetic compositions |
-
1992
- 1992-05-22 GB GB929210966A patent/GB9210966D0/en active Pending
-
1993
- 1993-04-29 CA CA002136319A patent/CA2136319C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1993-04-29 WO PCT/US1993/004038 patent/WO1993024101A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1993-04-29 EP EP93910906A patent/EP0641189A4/en not_active Withdrawn
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CA2136319A1 (en) | 1993-12-09 |
| EP0641189A4 (en) | 1996-03-06 |
| EP0641189A1 (en) | 1995-03-08 |
| GB9210966D0 (en) | 1992-07-08 |
| WO1993024101A1 (en) | 1993-12-09 |
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Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| EEER | Examination request | ||
| MKLA | Lapsed |