MXPA96005223A - Cosmeti compositions - Google Patents

Cosmeti compositions

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Publication number
MXPA96005223A
MXPA96005223A MXPA/A/1996/005223A MX9605223A MXPA96005223A MX PA96005223 A MXPA96005223 A MX PA96005223A MX 9605223 A MX9605223 A MX 9605223A MX PA96005223 A MXPA96005223 A MX PA96005223A
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Mexico
Prior art keywords
approximately
weight
composition
oil
skin care
Prior art date
Application number
MXPA/A/1996/005223A
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Spanish (es)
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MX9605223A (en
Inventor
Francis Date Robert
Nawaz Zahid
Original Assignee
Procter & Gamble The Company
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Publication date
Priority claimed from GB9408259A external-priority patent/GB9408259D0/en
Application filed by Procter & Gamble The Company filed Critical Procter & Gamble The Company
Publication of MX9605223A publication Critical patent/MX9605223A/en
Publication of MXPA96005223A publication Critical patent/MXPA96005223A/en

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Abstract

A skin care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion consisting of from about 1% to about 60% by weight of oil, about 30% to about 98.8% by weight of water, about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of urea, and approximately 0.1% to approximately 20% by weight of an organic amphiphilic emulsifier material which is capable of forming liquid crystals in the product or in the skin. The composition provides improved wettability, benefits in the care and feel of the skin, as well as a reduced fatty nature, together with excellent characteristics of application, absorption and stability.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, it relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions or lotions, which provide improved wettability, skin feel and skin care, as well as appearance benefits and reduced fat character, together with application characteristics. and excellent absorption. The compositions also show excellent stability characteristics at normal and elevated temperatures.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The skin is formed by several layers of cells, which coat and protect the fibrous proteins of keratin and collagen that form the skeleton of its structure. It is known that the exterior of these layers, referred to as stratum corneum, is composed of 25 nm protein ligaments, surrounded by layers of & nm thick. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and, by delipidiation (ie removal of lipids from the stratum corneum), destroy its integrity. This destruction of the topography of the surface of the skin leads to a harsh sensation and could eventually allow the solvent or the surfactant to interact with the keratin, creating irritation. It is now recognized that maintaining the proper water gradient along the stratum corneum is important for its functionality. The majority of this water, which is sometimes considered to be the plasti fi cient of the stratum corneum, comes from within the body. If the humidity is very low, as in a cold climate, there is insufficient water in the outer layers of the stratum corneum to properly laminate the tissue, and the skin begins to peel and become irritated. The permeability of the skin is also diminished in some way when there is inadequate water along the stratum corneum. On the other hand, a large amount of water on the outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to absorb three to five times its own weight of bound water. This swells and wrinkles the skin, and results in an increase of approximately two to three times in the permeability of the skin against water and other polar molecules. In this way, there is a need for compositions that can help the stratum corneum maintain its barrier functions and water retention, in an optimal performance despite the harmful interactions that the skin may face in its washing, at work, and in recreation. The compositions of conventional cosmetic lotions and creams as described, for example, in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Val. 1, Wiley "Interscience (1972) and Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, Volume 7, are known to provide varying degrees of emolliency, barrier benefits and water retention (wettability), however, these can also suffer from negative aspects. serious in terms of skin sensation (ie, they often feel very greasy on the skin), as well as having poor application, absorption and residue characteristics.The present invention, therefore, provides cosmetic compositions for the care of the skin, which provide improvements in wettability, absorption, sensation and care of the skin, as well as appearance characteristics, and which in particular provide improved long-term and short-term wettability effectiveness, while reducing stickiness and avoiding a greasy feeling on the skin.The compositions also show excellent stability characteristics, both at temperature s normal as elevated.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Accordingly, in one aspect of the present invention, a skin care composition is provided in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion consisting of: (a) from about 1 to up to 60% by weight of oil; (b) from almost 30% to up to 96. &% by weight of water; f) from almost 0.1% to up to 20% by weight of urea; and (d) from about 0.1% to up to 20% by weight of an organic liquid crystal forming antifilm emulsifier material. The compositions of the present invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a dispersion containing one or more different dispersed and emulsified oil phases, together with urea and an essential liquid crystal-forming emulsifying component, as well as several optional ingredients indicated later. All levels and relationships are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise indicated. The chain length and degrees of ethoxylation are also specified on a weight average basis. A first essential component of the compositions herein is an oil or mixture of oils. In physical terms, the compositions generally take the form of a dispersion of one or more oil phases (referred to in the present co or primary phase, secondary phase, etc.), in a continuous aqueous phase, each oil phase consists of a simple oily component or a mixture of oily components in a homogeneous or miscible form. The complete level of oil phase components in the compositions of the invention is preferably from 1% to almost 60%, preferably from almost 2% to up to 30% and most preferably from almost 3% to up to 20% by weight. In preferred embodiments, the top oil phase is present in an amount of from 4 to 16%, more preferably from 5% to 11% by weight of the composition. The level of primary oil phase component is very valuable in the present, since it achieves an optimum wettability and fatty character characteristics. The primary oil phase generally consists of a natural or synthetic oil selected from vegetable and mineral animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof which have emollient cosmetic properties. The primary oil phase component is preferably essentially silicone-free, ie it contains no more than about 10%, preferably no more than about 5% by weight of silicone-based materials. It will be understood that the oil phase may contain small levels (e.g., more than up to 25%, preferably 10%) of soluble oil phase emulsifying ingredients. Such ingredients should not be considered as oil phase components from the point of view of determining the oil phase level, and the required hydropolic-lipophilic balance (HLB). In preferred embodiments, the complete HLB required of the oil phase is from & to up to 12, especially from 9 to 11, the required HLB being determined by the sum of the individual values required of HLB for one component of the oil phase, multiplied by its weight / weight percentage in the oil phase (see ICI literature in the HLB system). The primary oil phase components suitable for use herein, include, for example, unsaturated fatty acids of substituted Ca-C3o or hydroxy substituted and esters thereof, esters of Ca.-Ca? + Saturated fatty acids of C? -C3o »such as isopropyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, and octidodecylmiristate (Wickenol 1 -2), beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols, such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, fatty sorbitan esters (see US-A-3966255, Seiden, issued October 26, 1976, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, plant and animal triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil , linseed oil, jojoba oil, albanic bone oil, walnuts, palm kernels, pistachios, sesame seeds, colsa seed, juniper oil, flax oil, peach kernel oil, poppy seed oil , oil of pine, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, and sunflower seed oil, as well as esters of dimeric and trimeric acids of CA-Cat4 . such as di isopropyl dimerate, diisostearyl alato, di isoteraildimerata, and tri isostearyltrimetrate. Of the above, the most highly preferred are mineral oils, petrolatums, fatty or saturated oils and esters thereof, and mixtures thereof. The compositions herein also preferably consist of a secondary oil phase, which is present in the preferred embodiments at a level of from 0.1% to up to 20%, especially from 1% to up to 10% by weight of the composition. In addition, the primary oil phase is preferably present in excess weight of the secondary oil phase. The component of the secondary oil phase is preferably silicone-based. Suitable silicone components herein include water-insoluble silicones inclusive of non-volatile polyalkyl and polyaryl siloxane gums and fluids, linear and volatile cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkoxy silicones, modified amino and quaternary ammonium silicones, reinforced silicones and rigid interlaces, and mixtures thereof. In preferred embodiments, the silicone component is a silicone gum having a molecular weight of almost 200,000 to up to 4,000,000 or a mixture of silicones including silicone gum. In the blends, the silicone rubber preferably constitutes from about 5% to up to 40%, especially from 10% to 20% by weight of the silicone blend. The silicone, or the silicone mixture, preferably constitutes from 0.1% to 20%, most preferably from 0.5% to 15%, and especially from 1% to 10% by weight of the composition. 6 A preferred silicone component for use in the art consists essentially of: (i) a silicone having a molecular weight of from 200,000 to up to 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone and mixtures thereof; and (ii) a silicone-based vehicle having a viscosity of from 0.65 mm2.s-l to up to 100 mm2. s-1. where the ratio of i) to i i) is from 10:90 to 20:60, and wherein said silicone component has a final viscosity of from 500 mma.5_: L to up to 10,000 mraa.5_1. Silicones based on dimethiconol suitable for use herein have the chemical structure (II): H0 (CH3) 3SiC [(CH3) 5aSi0Dr, (CH3) 2Si0H where n is from 2000 to 40,000, preferably from 3000 to up to 30,000. The luorosilicones useful herein have a molecular weight of from 200,000 to up to 300,000, preferably from 240,000 to up to 260,000 and most preferably from 250,000. Silicone gums that include dimethicones such as those described by Petrarch et al., Include US-A-4, 152,416, lo. May 1979, to Spitzer and others, and Noli, Walter, Chemistry and TechnoloQ of Silicones. New York; Academic Press 1966. The silicon rubber product data sheets of General Electric SE 30, SE 33, E 54 and SE 76 also describe silicone gums. The "silicone rubber" materials useful herein show high molecular weight materials having an average mass molecular weight in excess of 200,000 and preferably from 200,000 to up to 4,000,000. Typically they have a viscosity at 25 ° C in excess of 1,000,000 mm2.s-A. Specific examples include polydimethyl siloxane, copolymer of (polydimethylsiloxane) (illvinylsiloxane), copolymer of poly (dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl) (methyldvinylsi loxane), and mixtures thereof. Silicone-based vehicles suitable for use herein include certain silicone fluids. The silicone fluid may be either a polyalkysiloxane, polyarylsiloxane, polyalkylene-siloxane or siloxane polyether copolymer. Mixtures of these fluids can also be used and are preferred in certain executions. Polyalkylsiloxane fluids which may be included include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with viscosities in the range of from 0.65 to 600,000 mm.sup.-1, preferably from 0.65 to 10,000 mm.sup.-a. 25 ° C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as the Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. The essential non-volatile polyalkylsiloxane fluids that can be used include, for example, polimet Iphenylsiloxanes having viscosities from 0.65 to up to 30,000 rom.12 ~ s at 25 ° C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from General Electric ™ as a fluid of SF 1075 or from Dow Corning. as a cosmetic grade fluid 556. Also suitable for use herein are certain volatile cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes having an incorporated ring structure of from about 3 to up to 7 portions of (Ha) a, SiO.The viscosity can be measured by from a visc capillary glass meter as described in test method CTM0004, Dow Corning Corporate, July 29, 1970. Preferably, the viscosity of the silicone mixture constituting the secondary oil phase is in the range of 500 mma .5-: the up to 100,000 mm ^ .s-1, preferably from 1000 mm '^. "1 to up to 10,000 mma.i. The most preferred silicate component for use herein is a dimethiconol gum having a molecular weight of from 200,000 to up to 4,000,000 together with a silicone carrier with a viscosity of 0.65 to 100 (iw? 2.5_i, h example of this silicone component is Dow Corning 02-1403 (65% 5 n? Ma.5_1 dimeticon fluid / 15% dimethiconol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401 available from Dow Corning. Another class of silicone component suitable for use herein includes polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers containing at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment.; said polydiorganosiloxane segment consists essentially of siloxane properties wherein b has a value of from 0 to 3 inclusive, there being an average value of about 2R radicals per silicone for all the siloan units in the copolymer, and R denotes a radical selected from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a divalent radical, linking said polyoxyalkylene segment with the polydiorganosyl? anus segment, at least 95% of all R radicals are methyl; and said polyoxyalkylene segment has an average molecular weight of at least 1000 and consists of from 0 to 50 mole percent of polyoxypropylene units and from 50 to 100 mole percent of polyoxyethylene units, at least a terminal portion of said polyalkyl segment being linked to said polydiorganosyl segment, any terminal portion of said polyalkylene segment not linked to said polydiorganosyl anion being satisfied by a radical; The weight ratio of the polydiorganosyl anion segments with polyoxyalkylene segments in said copolymer has a value of from 2 to 6. Such polymers are described in US-A-4,266,499. Preferred for use herein, are the polydiorganosyl-ano-polyoxyalkylene copolymers with the general formula: H3C_ CH. where x and y are selected such that the weight ratio of the polydiorganosyl? anus segments with polyoxyalkylene is from 2 to 6, the molar ratio of a: (a + b) is from 0.5 to 1. and R is a chain terminal group selected especially from hydrogen; hydrophilic; alkyl, such as ethyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl as phenyl; alkoxy as a methoxy, eto? i, propo? i, buto? i; benzyl? i; arila? i, like the pheno? i; alkynyl? co or vinyl? i and allyl? i; acyl? i, such as aceto? i, acryl? i and propiono? i and ¡smino, such as dimethylamino. The number and average molecular weights of the segments in the copolymer are such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably from 2.5 to 4.0. Suitable copolymers are commercially available under the trade names Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Gescháftsbereich S, Postfach D-600 Munich 22 and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldsch idt Ltd., Tego House, Victoria - ^ oad, Ruislip, Middlese ?, HA4 OYL. Particularly preferred for use herein are Belsil (RTM) 6031 and April (RTM) B66163. The above polydiorgano silo-ano-polyalkyalkylene copolymers can be used previously or in a mixture with other silicones, for example, cyclic volatile polydimethylsilanes. In addition, said copolymers and mixtures may be used in combination with the silicone gums defined herein. The silicone component is valuable herein in conjunction with the liquid crystal-forming emulsifier and urea to modify the perceived skin feel of the composition. Highly preferred in this regard are silicone gums having a molecular weight of from 200,000 to 4,000,000; in this manner and in accordance with another aspect of the invention, a skin care composition is provided in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion which consists of silicone or silicone blend at a level of 0.1% to 20%. % by weight, the silicone or silicone blend consists of a silicone gum having a molecular weight of from 200,000 to up to 4,000,000 and wherein the composition incorporates additional from 0.1% to up to 20% urea and optionally from 2% to up to 10% of an emulsifier capable of forming liquid crystals in water, this emulsifier being preferred a mixture of fatty acid ester based on a mixture of sorbitan fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester. The ester of fatty acid in each instance is preferably C? - Ca. +, most preferably of Clc, -Cao. The silicone or silicone mixture is preferably present at a level of from 0.5% to up to 15%, preferably from 1% to up to 10% by weight of the composition, and this level is based on the total mixture of rubber and materials of non-rubber silicone. In preferred embodiments, the compositions of this aspect of the invention, consist of a primary oil phase which is essentially free of silicone together with a secondary oil phase consisting of silicone gum. The primary oil phase is described in detail above. Preferred embodiments herein consist of from 0.1% to up to 10% by weight of an unsaturated fatty acid or ester. Preferred esters and unsaturated fatty acids for use herein are unsaturated fatty acids and unsaturated hydrocarbon esters of Ca ~ Cso, especially esters of ricinoleic acid. The unsaturated ester or fatty acid component is presently valuable in combination with the liquid crystal-forming emulsifier to improve the skin feel and the application characteristics of the composition. Highly preferred in this respect is cetyl recinaleate. A secondary essential ingredient in the composition herein is an organic anphilic emulsifying material which is capable of forming liquid crystals in the product or when the product is applied to the skin at ambient or elevated temperatures. Preferably, the emulsifier is able to form liquid crystals (especially lyotropic smectic liquid crystals) at a temperature in the range from 20 ° C to 60 ° C. The emulsifier is preferably incorporated into the composition in an amount of from 0.1% to up to 20%, preferably from 2% to up to 10%, and most preferably from 3% to up to 7% by weight of the composition. The amphiphilic emulsifier for use herein is selected from polyol esters, alkoxylated polyol esters, and mixtures thereof, and a preferred emulsifier consists of sugar ester, especially an ester selected from sucrose and palrnitatos oleates. and mixtures thereof. Highly preferred herein is a mixture of fatty acid ester based on a mixture of sorbitan fatty acid ester or sorbitol and sucrose fatty acid ester, with the fatty acid being in each instance preferably C 2 -C 2 U, most preferably IO-2O- The preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier from the viewpoint of wettability is a mixture of sorbitan fatty acid ester or sorbitol of CIA-C-BO with C10-C16 sucrose fatty acid ester, especially sorbitan stearate and sucorose cocoate. These are commercially available from ICI under the trade name Arlatone 2121. The stabilization mechanism of the formulation derived from Arlatone 2121 is based on the formation of distinct liquid crystalline structures in the aqueous ness within which the oil phase is dispersed. To achieve optimum wettability, skin absorption and feel along with a reduced fattyness it is desirable that the ratio of primary oil to fatty acid ester emulsifier be in a ratio of from 6: 1 to up to 1: 2, preferably from 4: 1 up to 1: 1. Another essential ingredient of the compositions herein is urea which is present at a level of from '. 1% to up to 20% preferably from 0.5% to up to 10% and most preferably from 1% to up to 5% by weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the oil phase and the organic amphiphilic material are premixed in water at a temperature above the raft point of the organic amphiphilic material (but preferably below 60 ° C) to form a water / oil / liquid crystal dispersion prior to the addition of urea. It has been found that urea is especially effective herein in combination with the amphiphilic emulsifier material to provide a surprising skin wettability and a smoothness in the content of an emulsion composition for the care of oil skin in Water. Moreover, it has surprisingly been found that urea has been shown to be more stable to hydrolytic degradation, thus allowing an increase in compositional pH.
A wide variety of optional ingredients such as non-occlusive moisturizers, humectants, gelling agents, neutralizing agents, perfumes, coloring agents and surfactants can be added to the skin compositions herein. The compositions herein may comprise a humectant. Suitable humectants for use herein include sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycol glycol, ethoxylated glucose derivatives, hexanetriol, and glycerin, water soluble polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants, and panthenols. A preferred humectant herein is glycerin (sometimes known as glycerol or glycerin). Chemically, glycerin is 1,2,3-propanetriol and is a commercial product. A wide source of material is in the manufacture of soap. Also preferred for use herein is butylene glycol. In the present compositions, the humectant is substantially present at a level of from 0.1% to 20%, more preferably from 1% to 10% and especially from 2% to 5% by weight of the composition. Polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants suitable for use in the compositions of the invention are available under the trademark Lubrajel (RTM) from Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, N.Y. 11767. In general, Lubrajels can be described as hydrates or clathrates which are formed by the reaction of Sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acid polymer. -before, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with a small amount of propylene glycol, followed by controlled hydration of the resulting product. Lubrajels are marketed in a number of grades of a variable glycerate ratio: palímers, and viscosity. Suitable Lubrajels include TW. Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel MS, Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV and the so-called Lubrajel oil. At least a portion of the humectant (up to 5% by weight of the composition) can be incorporated in the form of an addition mixture together with a lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material.The carrier and humectant material can be added either to the aqueous or dispersed phase This copolymer is particularly valuable in that it reduces the gloss and controls the oil while helping to provide effective wettability benefits The hydrophobic inter-layered polymer is preferably in the form of a crystalline network of copolymer with At least one active ingredient uniformly dispersed through and entrapped within the crystal lattice of the polymer.Alternatively, the hydrophobic polymer can take the form of a porous particle having a surface area (Ns ,, BET) on the scale from 50 to 500, preferable to 100 to 300 nw? 2.s-1 and having the active ingredient absorbed therein, the hydrophobic polymer interlaced is preferable. It is present in an amount of from 0.1% to up to 10% by weight and is preferably incorporated into the aqueous phase. The active ingredient may be one or more or a mixture of skin-compatible oils, skin-compatible humectants, emollients, wetting agents and sunscreens. In another embodiment, the polymer material is in the form of a powder, this combined powder being a combined particle system. The powder particle system forms a crystalline network which includes unitary particles of less than one diameter in average diameter, agglomerates of fused unit particles of a size in the range of 20 to 100 microns in average diameter and aggregates of groups of agglomerates fused of sizes in the scale from 200 to 1200 microns in average diameter. The powder material of this embodiment can be described in general terms as an hydrophobic, crosslinked hydrophobic crosslinking of crosslinking. The powder preferably has entrapped and dispersed therein an active which may be in the form of a solid, a liquid or a gas. The lattice is in the form of a macroparticle and forms distinct solid particles that flow freely when loaded with the active material. The lattice may contain a predetermined amount of active material. A suitable polymer has the structural formula: "where the ratio of x to y is 60:20, R 'is -CH ^ CH-a- and R" is The hydrophobic polymer is a highly entangled polymer, more particularly a copolymer of polymethacrylate highly between lacing. The material is manufactured by Dow Corning Corporation Midland, Michigan, E.U.A. and sold by the trade name P0LYTRAP (RTM). It is an ultra light white powder that flows freely and particles. able to absorb high levels of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquids while maintaining a free-flowing powder character. The structure of the powder consists of a crosslinking of unitary particles smaller than 1 miera that are fused to form agglomerates of 20 to 100 microns and the agglomerates are dispersedly grouped in the preparticles or aggregates of approximately 200 to approximately 1200 microns in magnitude. The powder of the polymer can contain as much as 4 times the weight of the fluids, • Pulsions, solids in dispersion or fusion. Adsorption of the active ingredients in the polymer powder can be effected using a stainless steel mixing vessel and a spoon, in which the active is added to the powder and the spoon is used to gently bend the active in the polymer powder. Low-viscosity fluid fluids can be adsorbed to a sealable vessel containing the polymer and then tumbling the materials until a certain consistency is achieved. More complex mixing equipment such as batten or double crown mixers can also be used. The preferred active ingredient for use in this is glycerin. Preferably, the weight ratio of the humectant to the carrier is from about 1: 4 to about 3: 1. It has also left as highly entangled polymetacrilate copolymer Microsponges 5647. It adopts the "generally spherical particles of hydrophobic polymer between loops having a pore magnitude of about 0.01 to about 0.05 microns and a surface area of 200-300ma / Once again, it is preferably loaded with humectant at the levels described above.The compositions of the invention may also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent at a level of preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, most preferably from about 0.02% to about %, and especially from about 0.02% to about 0.5% The gel agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20 ° C, Brookfield RVT) of at least approximately 4000 mPa.s, very preferably of approximately 10,000 Pa.s and especially of at least 50,000 Pa.s. The geli agents can be described hydrophilicizers suitable as water-soluble or colloidally water-soluble polymers, including cellulose ethers (for example hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, polyvinylpyrrole idone, guar gum, hydropropyl hydrochloride, and sodium gum). ?yesteryear. The preferred hydrophilic gelling agents in this, however, are the copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate and the carba? Ivini polymers sold by B.F. Goodrich Company with the commercial name of Carbopol Resins. These resins consist of a crosslinked polymer of polyalkylene polyether polyether colloidally soluble in water of acrylic acid entangled with 0.75% to 2.00% of an entanglement agent such as for example poviali lsucrose or polyali lpentaeristritol. Some examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 954, Carbopol 960, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 961. Carbopol 934 is a water soluble polymer of interlaced acrylic acid with approximately 1% polyallyl ether of sucrose having a average of approximately 5.6 alyl groups for each molecule - • * <; »Sucrose. A most preferred polymer is Carbopol 951. Also suitable for use herein are the hydrophobically modified entangled polymers of acrylic acid having amphitic properties available by the trade names Carbopol 1362, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (Designation). CTFA: Acrylates710-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crospoly er). A combination of the polymer between acrylic acid and polyalkivinyl polyether lacing and the hydrophobically modified acrylic acid crosslinked polymer is also suitable and is preferred for use therein. The gelling agents in this are particularly valuable in providing excellent stability characteristics at both normal and elevated temperatures. Some neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing the acidic group containing hydrophilic gelling agents therein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine. The compositions of the invention are in the form of an emulsion and are preferably formulated in order to have a product viscosity of at least 4000 mPa.s preferably on the scale of approximately 4000 to approximately 300,000 mP.s, most preferably from about 6000 to about 200,000 mPa.s and especially from about 10,000 to appropriately 50,000 ^ S > 5 ° C, pure, uaillo RVT No. 5 of Brookfield). the compositions of the invention may also contain from 0.1% to approximately 10%, preferably from approximately 1% to approximately 5% panthenol humectant. The panthenol humectant can be selected from D-. panthenol (CR3-2.4-dihydro? i-N-C3-hydroxypropyl) 1-3, -di ethylbuta ida). Panthenol DL, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthenite, panthena panteni let i leter, pangamic acid, pyridoxine, pantoilic lactose and vitamin B complex. Highly preferred from the point of view of skin color and viscosity reduction is the panthenol D. The compositions of the present invention may contain in addition from about 0.001 to about 0.5%, preferably from about 0.002% to about 0.05%, most preferably from about 0.005% to about 0.02% by weight of carboxymethyl. Chitin i_a chitin is a polysaccharide that is present in the tug of lobsters and crabs and is a mucopolysaccharide that has beta (1-4-) linkages of N-acet i 1-D-glucosamine. The carboxymethylchipipa is prepared by treating the purified material of chitin with alkali followed by monochloroacetic acid. It is sold commercially in the form of a dilute aqueous solution (Approximately 0.1% to 0.5% by weight) under the trade name Chitin Liquid available from A & E Connock Ltd., Fordingbridge, Hampshire, England.Other optional materials include the -hydolytic agents such as salicylic acid; proteins and polypeptides, and derivatives thereof; water-soluble or solubilisable preservatives such as Germall 115, the methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydro- iobenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, Eu il (RTM) K400, Bromopol (2-bvromo-2- nitropropane-1, 3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; antibacterials such as Irgasan (RTM) and pheno-ethanol (preferably at levels of 0.1% to approximately 5%); Soluble or colloidally soluble agents such as hilaronic acid and sodium starch grafted paliacrylates such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and described in USA- A-4,076, 663; coloring agents, perfumes and solubilizers and additional surfactants and emulsifiers such as alcohol ethoxylates, ethoxylated polyol fatty acid ethers, in which the polyol can be selected from glycerin, propylene glycol , et i liclicol, sorbitol, sorbitan, polypropylene glycol, glucose and sucrose. Some examples include glyceryl monohydro-istearate and ethanolated stearyl alcohol with an average of 10 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol and capelic and capric glycerides of PEG-6. Some preferred embodiments of the invention further comprise from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of aluminum starch coating. The "aluminum starch ctenyl-succinate" is an aluminum salt of the reaction product of octenylsuccinic anhydride with starch and is commercially available under the tradename Dry Fio National Starch &Chemical Ltd. Dry Fio is useful here from the tactile point of view of the skin and the characteristics of application.Other optional materials in this include the pigments that, where they are insoluble in water, contributes to and 's included in a total level of ingredients of the oil phase. Use in the compositions of the present invention may be organic and / or inorganic. Also included within the term pigment are materials that have a low color or luster such as matt preferential agents and also mild spreading agents. are the oxides of iron, the oxides of iron of aciglutamanta, the ultramarine blue, the dyes D &C , the carmine, and mixtures thereof. Depending on the type of the composition, a mixture of pigments is normally used. Preferred pigments for use therein from the standpoint of wetting, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are treated pigments. The pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and ester oils.
The pH of the compositions is preferably from TJGOX to 4 to approximately 9, very preferably from approximately 5 to approximately 7.5. The water content of the compositions herein is generally from about 30% to about 96.6% preferably from about 50% to about 95% and especially from about 60% to about 90% by weight. The invention is illustrated among the following examples.
EXAMPLES I TO V I II III IV V Cetyl alcohol 0.25 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.25 Stearic acid 0.11 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.1 Steareth 100 0.1 0.1 0.15 0.15 0.15 GMHS (1) 0.15 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.15 Cetyl Palmitate 9.0 2 3 4 2.5 Mineral oil 2.0 3 4 3 3.5 Petrolatum 3.00 2 2.5 4 3.5 Wickenol 142 (RTM) 0.60 1 1 1 0.7 Demeterona 200 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.4 Propí 1 iparaben 0.06 0.06 0.07 .06 0.07 Arlatona (RTM) 2121 6 4 7 5 4 Glycerin 3 6 3 2 7 Carbopol (RTM) 1342 0.095 0.075 0.075 0.075 0.075 26 Carbopol (RTM) 951 0.09 0.06 0.09 0.09 0.06 '»?» EDTA 0. 1 0.2 0. 1 0. 1 0. 1 Me liparaben 0. 175 0. 175 0. 175 0.015 0. 175 KOH 0.3 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Di eticone Q21403 3 - 4 3 _ CeRiccinoleate - 2 - 1 - Butylene glycol - - 2 - DryFlo (RTM) - 1 - 0.5 - Perfume 0.2 0.2 - 0.2 'Jrea 2.5 1.5 3 2 2.5 Colorant 0.0004 0.0002 0.0003 1. Glyceryl monohydroisisterate The compositions are made as follows: A first mixture of thickeners, Arlatone 2121, and other soluble ingredients other than urea are prepared by mixing in water and heating appropriately. at 60 ° C. A second premix of ingredients from the oils other than silicone rubber is prepared by mixing and heating and added to the aqueous premix. The resulting mixture is cooled to approx. 60 ° C. The silicone gum and urea are added to the resulting emulsion of oil in water and the mixture is cooled before adding the minor ingredients. The composition is ready to be packaged. The eibrin compositions improve wetting, skin sensation and skin care characteristics together with reduced fatigue and excellent characteristics. Penetrating float and absorption.
EXAMPLES VI TO X VI VII VIII IX X Cetyl Alcohol 0.25 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.25 Stearic acid 0.11 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.1 Steareth 100 0.1 0.1 0.15 0.15 0.15 GMHS (1) 0.15 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.15 Cetyl Palmitata 9.0 2 3 4 2.5 Mineral oil 2.0 3 4 3 3.5 Petrolato 3.00 2 2.5 4 3.5 Wickenol 142 (RTM) 0.60 1 1 1 0.7 Deme icona 200 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.4 Prop i lparaben 0.06 0.06 0.07 0.06 0.07 Arlatona (RTM) 2121 6 4 7 5 4 Glycerin 6 3 1.5 2 6 Carbopol (RTM) 1342 0.095 0.075 0.075 0.075 0.075 Carbopol (RTM) 951 0.09 0.06 0.09 0.09 0.06 Na4 EDTA 0.1 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.1 Met ilaraben 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.015 0.175 0H 0.3 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Di ethicone Q21403 3 - 4 3 _. Copoliol de ciclomet ilcona dimethicone 1.0 1.0 - 1.0 1.0 Microsponges 5647 - - 1.0 - - Read itina - 0.1 - - - ,, 7eno? Ietanol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 CeRiccinoleate - 2 - 1 - Butylene glycol - - - 2 -DryFlo (RTM) - 1 - 0.5 Perfume 0.2 0.2 - 0.2 Urea 3 2.5 2 1.5 2 Colorant 0.0004 0.0002 0.0003 1. Glyceryl monohydroxystearate The compositions of Examples VI to X are made in the same manner as the compositions of Examples I to V above.

Claims (6)

  1. NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION CLAIMS 1. - A composition for skin care in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion consisting of: (a) Approximately 1% to about 60% by weight of oil; (b) Approximately 30% to about 96.6% by weight of water; (c) Approximately 0.1% to approximately 20% by weight of urea; (d) Approximately 0.1% to approximately 20% by weight of an organic amphiphilic emulsifying material that forms liquid crystals.
  2. 2. A skin care composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oil and the amphiphilic and organic emulsifying material are premixed in the water to form a liquid crystal / oil in water in dispersion before adding the urea .
  3. 3. A composition for skin care according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the urea is present in an amount in the scale of approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, preferably of approximately 0.1%. 1% to approximately 5% by weight.
  4. 4. A composition for skin care according to any of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the amphiphilic emulsifier material is selected from among polyol esters, polyol esters, and mixtures thereof.
  5. 5. A composition for skin care according to claim 4, characterized in that the organic amphiphilic emulsifier material consists of a sugar ester, especially an ester selected from sucrose oleates and palmitates, and mixtures thereof. 6. A composition for skin care according to claim 5, characterized in that the emulsifier is a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. 7. A skin care composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, which consists of approximatively 2% to approximately 30%, preferably from approximately 3% to approximately 20% by weight. weight of oil and from about 2% to about 10%, preferably from about 3% to about 7% of the amphiphilic emulsifying material.
  6. 6. A composition for skin care according to any of claims 1 to 7, which consists of one or more phases other than oil, and characterized in that the main phase of the oil is essentially free of silicones and is present in a level of approximately 4% to approximately 16% by weight and because the weight ratio of the main phase of the oil to the emulsifier is on the scale from approximately 6: 1 to approximately 1: 1, preferably from a '? Or imadamente 4: 1 to approximately 1: 1. 9. A composition for skin care according to claim 6, characterized in that the main phase of the oil consists of a synthetic natural oil selected from mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, esters of fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. 10. A composition for skin care "" according to any of claims 1 to 9, which incorporates a secondary phase of oil consisting of a silicone or a mixture of silicones at a level of 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, most preferably from 1% to approximately 10% by weight of the composition, and because the silicone or the mixture of silicones consists of a silicone gum having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000. 11. A skin care composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, further comprising 0.1% to 10% of an unsaturated fatty acid of CA-CBO optionally substituted by the hydro group. ? io an ester of it. 12. A composition for skin care according to claim 11, characterized in that the unsaturated fatty acid of Cß-CBO optionally substituted by the hydro? I group or an ester thereof is ricinoleate. , at ílico. 13. - A composition for skin care according to any of claims 1 to 12, which furthermore comprises approximately 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a humectant selected from glycerin, polyglycerol ethacrylate lubricants, but ilenglicol, sorbitol, panthenols, propylene glycol, he glycol, ethoxylated glucose derivatives, ether ethers and glycosides, and mixtures thereof. 14. A composition for skin care according to claim 13, characterized in that a humectant is selected from glycerin to butyl glycol, and mixtures thereof. 15. A skin care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, further comprising from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent selected from carboxyvinyl polymers, preferably polymers. colloidally soluble in water of acrylic acid crosslinked with approximately 0.75% to approximately 2% of entangled agent, selected from polyalkyl sucrose and pentaerythritol polyalkyl. 16. A composition for skin care according to any of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the gelling agent consists of a hydrophobically modified and interlaced acrylic acid lye which has antipathetic properties. 17. A composition for skin care according to any of claims 1 to 16, which further comprises approximately 0.1% to about 5% by weight of octeni aluminum starch isuccinate.
MXPA/A/1996/005223A 1994-04-26 1996-10-28 Cosmeti compositions MXPA96005223A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB9408259.1 1994-04-26
GB9408259A GB9408259D0 (en) 1994-04-26 1994-04-26 Cosmetic compositions
PCT/US1995/005080 WO1995028913A1 (en) 1994-04-26 1995-04-25 Cosmetic compositions

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
MX9605223A MX9605223A (en) 1997-09-30
MXPA96005223A true MXPA96005223A (en) 1998-07-03

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