KR100299499B1 - Skin care compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides a composition comprising (a) from about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of a particulate component having an average particle size of about 50 microns or less; (b) about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent of an organic liquid crystal-forming amphipathic surfactant; (c) emulsified oil phase; And (d) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising water. The compositions of the present invention provide improved skin feel, reduced shine / stickiness and faster absorption.

Description

Skin protection composition {SKIN CARE COMPOSITIONS}

The skin consists of multiple layers of cells that coat and protect keratin and collagen fiber proteins that form the backbone of the skin structure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum, is known to consist of a 25 nm protein bundle surrounded by an 8 nm thick layer. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically break through the stratum corneum membrane and degreasing (ie, removing fat from the stratum corneum) to disrupt the integrity of the stratum corneum. This breakdown of the skin surface roughens and ultimately the surfactant or solvent interacts with keratin to cause irritation.

It is recognized that maintaining an appropriate water gradient across the stratum corneum is important for the function of the stratum corneum. Most of the water, often considered a plasticizer of the stratum corneum, comes from inside the body. If the humidity is too low, such as in cold climates, insufficient water will remain in the outer layer of the stratum corneum to adequately plasticize the tissue, resulting in scaly and itchy skin. In addition, improper water in the stratum corneum often results in some decrease in skin permeability. On the other hand, if too much water is outside of the skin, the stratum corneum will ultimately absorb binding water three to five times its weight. This swells and wrinkles the skin, increasing about two to three times the permeability of water and other polar molecules to the skin.

Thus, there is a need for a composition that can assist the stratum corneum to maintain the barrier and water retention function of the stratum corneum at optimal performance despite the harmful interactions that the skin faces during face wash, work and rest.

Conventional cosmetic cream and lotion compositions are described, for example, in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd edition, Vol. 1, Wiley Interscience (1972) and Encyclopedia of Chemical Technolgy, 3rd edition, Volume 7, and are known to provide varying degrees of softening, barrier and moisture retention (moisturizing) advantages. However, they also have serious drawbacks in terms of skin feel (i.e. they can feel very greasy on the skin), have poor rubbing and residual properties, and are slow to absorb into the skin.

Accordingly, there is a need for compositions that assist the stratum corneum to maintain a moisture gradient while providing improved skin feel, rub and residual properties, and absorption into the skin.

Compounds exhibiting liquid crystallinity are known to be used in skin care compositions. Liquid crystals are special phases of matter. The liquid crystal phase is located at the boundary between the solid phase and the isotropic liquid phase (i.e., the middle between the three-dimensional aligned crystal state and the disordered state of dissolution). In the liquid crystal state, some of the molecular order characteristics of the solid phase remain in the liquid state due to the molecular bonding structure and the long range of intermolecular orders. The ability of some compounds to form liquid crystalline mesophases was observed almost a century ago. Since this time many compounds exhibiting liquid crystallinity have been synthesized and used in mobile vehicles and encapsulation for use in mobile vehicles and skin care compositions for drugs, perfumes, nutrients and other compounds.

Particulates such as silicon dioxide, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are known to be used in cosmetics as pigments / colorants and also provide advantages such as UV absorption and oil absorption. However, there is still a need to improve skin feel, absorption rate and reduced stickiness / smearing on the skin.

Surprisingly, by incorporating a substance capable of forming liquid crystals in the cosmetic emulsion composition together with a particulate component having an average particle size of about 50 microns or less, it improves moisturizing and skin feel, especially providing faster absorption while at the same time sticking on the skin It has been found that compositions are provided that reduce flutter and shine.

Summary of the Invention

According to one aspect of the present invention there is provided an article of manufacture comprising (a) from about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of a particulate component having an average particle size of about 50 microns or less; (b) about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent of an organic liquid crystal forming amphipathic surfactant; (c) emulsified oil phase; And (d) an oil-in-water emulsifying agent comprising water.

According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a composition comprising: (a) from about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of a particulate component having an average particle size of about 50 microns or less; (b) emulsified oil phase; And (c) a leave-on moisturizing emulsion comprising water.

The compositions of the present invention provide improved skin feel, reduced shine / stickiness and faster absorption.

According to another aspect of the invention there is provided a cosmetic method of skin treatment, wherein the method comprises applying the skin protective composition of the invention to the skin.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, it relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions which provide excellent rub and absorption characteristics with improved moisturizing, skin feel, skin protection and appearance advantages and reduced shine. The composition also exhibits good stability characteristics at room temperature and elevated temperature.

The composition of the present invention takes the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing essentially one or more individual emulsifying oil phases together with a variety of optional components as described below, essentially together with the liquid crystal forming emulsifier component. The composition of the present invention also essentially comprises a particulate component having an average particle size of about 50 microns or less. All amounts and ratios are by weight of the total composition unless otherwise stated. Chain length and degree of ethoxylation are also disclosed on a weight average basis.

As used herein, the term "skin conditioning agent" means a material that provides "skin conditioning benefits". As used herein, the term "skin conditioning benefit" refers to moisturizing, wetting (ie, the ability to retain or maintain water or moisture in the skin), skin softening, visual improvement of the skin surface, stability of the skin, softening of the skin. By any cosmetic conditioning benefit for the skin including, but not limited to, improvement of skin feel and the like.

As used herein, the term “complete melting point” means the melting point measured by known techniques of differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The complete melting point is the temperature at the intersection of the tangent to the tail edge of the endothermic peak and the baseline, i. Scanning temperatures of 5 ° C./min are generally suitable for the present invention to determine the complete melting point. However, it should be recognized that in certain circumstances faster injection rates may be deemed suitable for skilled analytical chemists in the art. DSC techniques for measuring complete melting point are also described in US Pat. No. 5,306,514 to Letton et al. On April 26, 1994, incorporated herein by reference.

As used herein, the term “unoccluded” means that the components described above do not substantially block the passage of air and moisture through the skin surface.

The first essential component of the compositions herein is a particulate component having an average particle size of about 50 microns or less, preferably about 30 microns or less, more preferably about 10 microns or less. In general, the particulate component preferably has an average particle size of at least about 0.5 micron, more preferably at least about 1 micron, most preferably from about 2 to about 8 microns. In general, the microparticles used herein are preferably inert. As used herein, the term “inert” means that they have only a limited ability to react chemically. It has been found that the particulate component is particularly important for providing improved skin feel and the application properties of leave-on moisturizing emulsions. Thus, according to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a method for producing a particulate component, comprising (a) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a particulate component having an average particle size of about 50 microns or less; (b) emulsified oil phase; And (c) a residual moisturizing emulsion comprising water.

The particulate component is present in the compositions herein in an amount from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight.

Particulates suitable for use herein include inorganic and organic particulates suitable for use in skin care compositions. These particulates are inorganic metal oxides or nitriles such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, iron oxides and boron nitride, plastic particulates such as low density polyethylene, high density polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, teflon, collagen treated nylon and meta Acrylate-based balls, organic particulates such as starch, oat flour, silk powder, aluminum starch octenyl succinate, esters such as N-lauryl-L-lysine and particulates derived from silicon, such as mica , Silicon dioxide, silica and magnesium silicate / aluminum silicate.

Preferred for use herein in view of improving skin feel and application properties are inorganic metal oxides and plastic particulates. In a preferred embodiment, the particulate component is selected from silicon dioxide, polyethylene and mixtures thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the particulate material is a mixture of silicon dioxide and polyethylene in a weight ratio ranging from about 3: 1 to about 1: 3, preferably from about 2: 1 to about 1: 2.

Preferred polyethylenes for use herein are low density polyethylenes such as those supplied by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals Co. Ltd. and sold under the tradename Flo-Beads grade LE-1080. This material has an average particle size of about 6 microns. Preferred silicon dioxide for use herein is silica bead SB-300 made by Cosmo Trends Corporation.

Amphiphilic Surfactant

A further essential ingredient of the compositions herein is an organic amphiphilic surfactant that can form smectic lyotropic crystals in the product when the product is applied to the skin at ambient or elevated temperature. Preferably the amphipathic surfactant can form liquid crystals at temperatures in the range of about 20 ° C to about 40 ° C. Preferably, the amphipathic surfactant can form a smetic lyotropic liquid crystal. Upon application of the product to the skin, the liquid crystals cannot be seen on the skin surface or the stratum corneum. Amphiphilic surfactant is present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight.

Liquid crystal forming amphiphilic surfactants suitable for use herein include both hydrophilic and lipophilic groups and exhibit a pronounced absorption tendency at the surface or interface, ie they are surface-active. Amphiphilic surface-active materials for use herein include nonionic (no charge), anionic (negative charge), cationic (positive charge) and amphoteric (positive charge and based on whether they ionize in an aqueous medium). Negative charge).

In the literature, liquid crystals are also referred to as anisotropic fluids, fourth states of matter, surfactant associative structures or mesophases. These terms are often used interchangeably. The term "lyotropic" refers to a liquid crystal system comprising a polar solvent such as water. As used herein, the liquid crystal is preferably a lobed, hexagonal, stick or vesicle structure or mixtures thereof.

The liquid crystal phase used in the compositions of the present invention can be identified in several ways. The liquid crystal phase flows under shear and is characterized by a viscosity that is significantly different from that of the isotropic solution phase. Hard gels do not flow under shear like liquid crystals. In addition, when viewed under a polarization microscope, the liquid crystal exhibits birefringence which can be identified as, for example, plate leaf birefringence, but when the isotropic solution and the hard gel are viewed under the polarization microscope, both show dark areas.

Other means suitable for identifying liquid crystals include X-ray diffraction, NMR spectroscopy and transmission electron microscopy.

In general, preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants for use herein are liquid, semi-solid or waxy waters having the general formula XY, wherein X represents a hydrophilic, in particular a nonionic, Y represents a lipophilic moiety. Can be described as a dispersant material.

Organic amphipathic surfactants suitable for use herein include those having a weight average HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) in the range of about 2 to about 12, preferably about 4 to about 8.

Preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants as used herein are saturated or unsaturated branched or linear lipophilic long chains having from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, for example oleic, ranolic, tetradecylic, hexadecyllic, isostearyl Ric, lauric, coconut, stearic or alkyl phenyl chains. If the hydrophilic group of the amphiphilic material forming the liquid crystal phase is a nonionic group, polyoxyethylene, polyglycerol, polyol esters, oxyalkylated or unsubstituted compounds such as polyoxyalkylated sorbitol or sugar esters can be used. . If the hydrophilic group of the amphiphilic surfactant forming the liquid crystal phase is an ionic group, it is advantageous to use phosphatidylcholine residues found in lecithin as hydrophilic groups.

Suitable hydrophilic residues for use herein are selected from:

(1) ethers of linear or branched polyglycerols having the formula:

R- (Gly) _n -OH

Where

n is an integer from 1 to 6,

R is selected from aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated chains having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon radicals and long chains of lanolin alcohols, 2-hydroxy alkyl residues of alpha-diol,

Gly represents a glycerol residue;

(2) polyethoxylated fatty alcohols (eg, formula R ¹ (C ₂ R ₄ O) _x OH, wherein R ¹ is C ₁₂ to C ₃₀ linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl, and x is about Alcohols from 0 to about 20, preferably from about 0.1 to about 6, more preferably from about 1 to about 4);

(3) polyol esters and polyalkoxylated polyol esters and mixtures thereof (polyols are preferably selected from sugars, C ₂ to C ₆ alkylene glycols, glycerol, polyglycerols, sorbitol, sorbitan, polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol; Wherein the polyalkoxylated polyol ester comprises about 2 to about 20 moles, preferably about 2 to about 4 moles of alkylene oxide (particularly ethylene oxide) per mole of polyol ester;

(4) Natural and synthetic phosphoglycerides, glycolipids and sphingolipids, such as cerebromide, ceramide and lecithin.

Examples of amphiphilic surfactants suitable for use herein include C ₈ to C ₃₀ alkyl and acyl-containing amphiphilic, anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants as disclosed below.

Amphoteric

N-alkyl amino acids (eg sodium N-alkylaminoacetate);

N-lauroylglutamic acid cholesterol esters (eg, Eldew CL-301 Ajinomoto).

Anionic

Acylglutamate (eg, disodium N-lauroylglutamate);

Sacosinates (eg, sodium lauryl sacosinate. Grace, Seppic);

Taurates (eg sodium lauryl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate);

Carboxylic acids and salts (eg, potassium oleate; potassium laurate; potassium-10-undecenoate; potassium 11- (p-styryl) -undecanoate);

Ethoxylated carboxylic acid salts (eg sodium carboxy methyl alkyl ethoxylates);

Ether carboxylic acid;

Phosphoric acid esters and salts (eg lecithin; DEA-oleth-10 phosphate);

Acyl isethionates (eg, sodium 2-lauroyloxyethane sulfonate);

Alkanesulfonates (eg, branched sodium x-alkane sulfonates (x / 1));

Sulfosuccinates, for example

Sodium dibutyl sulfosuccinate,

Sodium di-2-pentyl sulfosuccinate,

Sodium di-2-ethylbutyl sulfosuccinate,

Sodium di-hexyl-sulfosuccinate,

Sodium di-2-ethylhexyl sulfosuccinate (AOT),

Sodium di-2-ethyldodecyl sulfosuccinate,

Sodium di-2-ethyloctadecyl sulfosuccinate,

Dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate,

Disodium lauret sulfosuccinate (MacKanate E1, McIntyre Group Ltd.);

Sulfuric esters (eg sodium 2-ethylhept-6-enyl sulfate; sodium 11-henicosyl sulfate; sodium 9-heptadecyl sulfate);

Alkyl sulfates (eg MEA alkyl sulfates such as MEA-lauryl sulfate).

Cationic

Alkyl imidazolines (eg, alkyl hydroxyethyl imidazolines, stearyl hydroxyethyl imidazolines (suppliers Akzo, Finetex and Hoechst));

Ethoxylated amines (eg PEG-n alkylamines, PEG-n alkylamino propylamines, poloxamines, PEG-cocopolyamines, PEG-15 tallow amines);

Alkylamines (eg dimethyl alkylamine; dihydroxyethyl alkylamine dioleate).

Quaternary amines:

Alkylbenzyl dimethylammonium salts (eg, stearalkonium chloride);

Alkyl betaines (eg dodecyl dimethyl ammonio acetate, oleyl betaine);

Heterocyclic ammonium salts (eg, alkylethyl morpholinium etosulphate);

Tetraalkylammonium salts (eg, dimethyl distearyl quaternary ammonium chloride (Witco));

Bis-isostearamidopropyl hydroxypropyl diammonium chloride (Schercoquat 21AP from Scher Chemicals);

1,8-bis (decyldimethylammonio) -3,6 dioxaoctane ditosylate.

Nonionic surfactant

Ethoxylated glycerides;

Monoglycerides (e.g. monoolein; monolinolein; monolaurin; 1-dodecanoyl-glycerol monolaurin; 1,13-docosenoyl-glycerol monoerucine diglyceride fatty acid (e.g. For example, fractionated diglycerol monoisostearate Cosmol 41 from Nisshin Oil Mills Ltd .;

Polyglyceryl esters (eg, triglycerol monooleate (Grindsted TS-T122), diglycerol monooleate (Grinstead TST-T101);

Polyhydric alcohol esters and ethers (e.g. sucrose cocoate, cetostearyl glucoside (Montanol from Seppic), β octyl glucofuranoside ester, C ₁₀ to C ₁₆ (Henkel) Alkyl glucosides;

Diesters of phosphoric acid (eg, sodium dioleyl phosphate);

Alkylamido propyl betaine (eg, cocoamido propyl betaine);

Amides (eg, N- (dodecanoylaminoethyl) -2-pyrrolidone);

Amide oxides (e.g., 1,1 dihydroperfluorooctyldimethylamine oxide, dodecyldimethylamine oxide, 2-hydroxydodecyldimethylamine oxide, 2-hydroxydodecyl-bis (2-hydroxyethyl ) Amine oxide, 2-hydroxy-4-oxahexadecyldimethylamine oxide);

Ethoxylated amides (eg PEG-n acylamides);

Ammonio phosphate (eg didecanoyl lecithin);

Amines (eg octylamine);

Ammonio amides (eg, N-trimethylammoniodecanamidate, N-trimethylammoniododecanamidate);

Ammonio carboxylates (eg dodecyldimethylammonioacetate, 6-didodecylmethylammoniohexanoate);

Phosphonic acid and phosphoric acid esters and amides (eg, methyl-N-methyl-dodecylphosphonamidate, dimethyl dodecylphosphonate, dodecyl methyl methylphosphonate, N, N-dimethyl dodecylphosphone dia) mid);

Ethoxylated alcohol

Polyoxyethylene (C ₈ ) (eg, pentaoxyethylene glycol pn-octylphenyl ether, hexaoxyethylene glycol pn-octylphenyl ether, nonaoxyethylene glycol pn-octylphenyl ether);

Polyoxyethylene (C ₁₀ ) (eg, pentaoxyethylene glycol pn-decylphenyl ether, decyl glyceryl ether, 4-oxatetradecane-1,2-diol, nonaoxyethylene glycol pn-decylphenyl ether);

Polyoxyethylene (C ₁₁ ) (eg tetraoxyethylene glycol undecyl ether)

Polyoxyethylene (C ₁₂ ) (e.g., 3,6,9,13-tetraoxapentacoic acid 1,11-diol, 3,6,10-trioxadodocic acid-1,8-diol, 3,6 , 9,12,16-pentaoxaoctacoic acid 1,14-diol, 3,6,9,12,15-pentaoxanonacosan-1,17-diol, 3,7-dioxanonadecane-1 , 5-diol, 3,6,12,15,19-hexaoxahenthriacontan-1,16-diol, pentaoxyethylene glycol dodecyl ether, nonaoxyethylene glycol pn-dodecylphenyl ether);

Polyoxyethylene (C ₁₄ ) (eg, 3,6,9,12,16-pentaxaoctaoctanoic acid-1,14-diol, 3,6,9,12,15,19-hexaoxatriacone Tan-1,17-diol);

Sulfone diimines (eg, decyl methyl sulfone diimine);

Sulfoxides (eg 3-decyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl methyl sulfoxide, 4-decyloxy-3-hydroxybutyl methyl sulfoxide);

Sulfoximine (eg, N-methyl dodecyl methyl sulfoximine).

Preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants for use herein are polyol esters and polyalkoxylated polyol esters and mixtures thereof, wherein the polyol is preferably sugar, C ₂ to C ₆ alkylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitol, sorbbi Selected from carbon, polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol, the polyalkoxylated polyol esters contain from about 2 to about 20, preferably from about 2 to about 4 moles of alkylene oxide (particularly ethylene oxide) per mole of polyol ester) Hydrophilic residues selected from, and saturated or unsaturated branched or linear lipophilic long chains having from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, for example oleic, ranolic, tetradecylic, hexadecyllic, isostaryllic, lauric, It is a nonionic amphiphilic surfactant having a lipophilic moiety selected from coconut, stearic or alkyl phenyl chains.

Very preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants for use herein are selected from polyhydric alcohol esters and ethers. Particularly preferred amphiphilic surfactants for use herein are sugar esters and polyalkoxylated sugar esters.

Sugar esters for use in the present invention are classified as hydroxylcarbyl and alkyl polyoxyalkylene esters of cyclic polyhydroxy saccharides in which one or more hydroxyl groups on the saccharide residues are substituted with acyl or polyoxyalkylene groups. Can be. Hydrocarbyl sugar esters can be prepared in a known manner by heating an acid or acid halide with a sugar, ie a simple esterification reaction.

Sugars used in the preparation of sugar esters include the right- and left-rotating forms of monosaccharides, disaccharides and oligosaccharides known in the art such as glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, arabinose and xylose. . Typical disaccharides include maltose, celiabiose, lactose and trehalose. Typical trisaccharides include raffinose and gentianose. Disaccharides, in particular sucrose, are preferred for use herein.

Sucrose may be esterified in one or more of the eight hydroxyl groups of sucrose to provide sucrose esters useful herein. Sucrose is mixed with an esterifying agent in a 1: 1 molar ratio to form a sucrose monoester: if the ratio of esterifying agent to sucrose is 2: 1 or more, up to the highest octa-esters, such as di-, tri- and the like.

Preferred sugar esters herein are those prepared by esterifying sugars in a molar ratio of esterification agent: sugar of 1: 1 to 3: 1, ie mono-acyl and di- or higher acyl sugar esters. Particular preference is given to mono-, di- and tri-acyl sugar esters and mixtures thereof in which the acyl substituent comprises from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms and 0, 1 or 2 unsaturated residues. Of the mono-acyl and di-acyl sugar esters, particular preference is given to disaccharide sugars, in particular the respective sucroses, of which the acyl group comprises from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms. Preferred sugar esters herein are sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose monolaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose monopalmitate, sucrose monostearate, sucrose Cross monooleate, sucrose monolinoleate, sucrose dioleate, sucrose dipalmitate, sucrose distearate, sucrose dilaurate and sucrose dilinoleate and mixtures thereof. Sucrose cocoate has been found to be particularly effective in the compositions herein. In the mixture of mono-acyl and di-, tri- and higher acyl sugar esters, the mono- and di-acyl esters are preferably about 40% by weight, more preferably about 50% to about 95% of the total sugar ester mixture. Account for weight percent.

Other sugar esters suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include those wherein one hydroxyl group is substituted with a C ₈ to C ₁₈ alkyl group and one or more hydroxyl groups on the sugar molecule contain an ester or ether substituent containing moiety ([(CH ₂ ) _x -O] _y ) where x is an integer from 2 to about 4, preferably 2, and y is a polyoxyalkylene substituent of about 1 to about 50, preferably 8 to 30 Alkyl polyoxyalkylene sugar esters. Particularly preferred herein are sugar esters wherein the polyoxyalkylene substituent is a polyoxyethylene substituent comprising from about 8 to about 30 polyoxyethylene groups. The material in which sorbitan is a sugar moiety is commercially available under the trade name "Tweens". Such mixed esters can be prepared by first acylating the sugars with a hydrocarbyl acid halide in a 1: 1 molar ratio and reacting with the corresponding polyoxyalkylene acid halide or alkylene oxide to provide the desired material. Disaccharides, in particular simple polyoxyalkylene esters of sucrose, in which the polyoxyalkylene groups contain up to about 20 alkylene oxide residues are another useful group of sugar esters herein. Preferred sugar esters of this group are sorbitol trioleate ethoxylated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide. Mixtures of sugar esters with other polyol esters, such as glycerol esters, are also suitable for use herein, for example Palm Oil Sucroglyceride (Rhone-Poulenc).

As used herein, the term “lecithin” refers to a substance that is phosphatide. Natural phosphatides or synthetic phosphatides can be used. Phosphatidylcholine or lecithin is glycerin esterified with choline esters of phosphoric acid and two fatty acids, usually long chain saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms and up to 4 double bonds. Other phosphatides capable of forming lobe or hexagonal liquid crystals can be used instead of or in combination with lecithin. These phosphatides are glycerol esters with two fatty acids as in lecithin, but choline is substituted with ethanolamine (cephalin) or serine (aminopropanoic acid; phosphatidyl serine) or inositol (phosphatidyl inositol). While the invention herein is illustrated by lecithin, it is contemplated that these other phosphatides may be used herein.

Various lecithins are available. American Lecithin Company supplies Nattermann Phospholipid, Phospholipan 80 and Phosal 75. Other lecithins that may be used alone or in combination with the lecithins are as follows: Actifla series, Centrocap series, Central Ca, Centrol (Central Soya) Centrol series, Centrolene, Centrolex, Centromix, Centrophase and Centrolphil series; Alcoholic and Alcoholic 493-C from American lecithin; Canaspersa from Canada Packers, Lexin K and Natipide from American lecithin; And W.A. Cleary Co., L-Clearate, Clearate LV, and Clearate WD. Lecithin is supplied dissolved in ethanol, fatty acids, triglycerides and other solvents. These are generally mixtures of lecithin and comprise from 15% to 50% of the solution supplied.

Both natural and synthetic lecithin can be used. Natural lecithin is derived from oilseed seeds such as sunflower seeds, soybeans, safflower seeds and cotton seeds. Lecithin is separated from the oil during the purification process.

Organic amphipathic surfactants have been found to be particularly important herein to improve the stability and skin feel of the compositions of the present invention.

Amphiphilic surfactant is preferably in an amount of about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably about 0.1% to about 10%, and more preferably about 0.1% to about 8% by weight of the composition. Incorporated into the composition.

Fatty acid ester blends based on sorbitan or a mixture of sorbitol fatty acid esters and sucrose fatty acid esters, wherein in each case the fatty acids are preferably C ₈ to C ₂₄ , more preferably C ₁₀ to C ₂₀ . Is very preferred herein. Preferred fatty acid ester emulsifiers in view of moisturizing are blends of sorbitan or sorbitol C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ fatty acid esters with sucrose C ₁₀ to C ₁₆ fatty acid esters, in particular sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. It is commercially available from ICI under the trade name Arlatone 2121.

The composition herein comprises an oil or a mixture of oils. In physical terms, the composition generally takes the form of an emulsion of one or more oil phases in an aqueous continuous phase, wherein each oil phase comprises a single oil component or a mixture of oil components in a miscible or homogeneous form, but the other oil phases are different Substances or mixtures of substances. The total amount of oil phase components in the compositions of the present invention is preferably from about 0.1% to about 60% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 30% by weight and more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight. to be.

The invention preferably comprises a first silicone containing phase comprising a polyorganosiloxane polymer and a silicone oil crosslinked with all or part of the abovementioned oil phases or oil phases, wherein the composition is crosslinked silicone and silicone The mixture of oils comprises from 0.1 to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of the composition.

The first silicone containing phase comprises about 10 to about 40 weight percent of the crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer, more preferably about 20 to about 30 weight percent of the first silicone containing phase, and about 60 to about silicone oil by weight of the first silicone containing phase. 90 weight percent, preferably about 70 to about 80 weight percent.

Crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers include polyorganosiloxane polymers crosslinked by a crosslinking agent. Crosslinkers for use herein include any crosslinker useful for the preparation of crosslinked silicone. Suitable crosslinkers herein include those represented by the following formula (2):

In the above formula,

R ₁ is methyl, ethyl, propyl or phenyl,

R ₂ is H or — (CH ₂ ) _n CH═CH ₂ , where n is from about 1 to about 50,

z is about 1 to about 1000, preferably about 1 to about 100,

R is an alkyl group having 1 to 50 carbon atoms.

Preferably the crosslinker has the formula

In the above formula,

R ₁ , R ₂ and z are as defined above.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the crosslinker has the formula

In the above formula,

z is about 1 to about 1000, preferably about 1 to about 100.

The crosslinked polysiloxane polymer preferably comprises a crosslinker at about 10 to about 50 weight percent, more preferably at about 20 to about 30 weight percent of the crosslinked polysiloxane polymer.

Any polyorganosiloxane polymer suitable for use in skin care compositions can be used herein. Suitable polyorganosiloxane polymers for use herein include those represented by Formula 5:

In the above formula,

R ₁ is methyl, ethyl, propyl or phenyl,

R ₂ is H or — (CH ₂ ) _n CH═CH ₂ , where n is from about 1 to about 50,

R ₃ and R ₄ are each selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl and phenyl,

R is an end-gap, such as an optionally hydroxy substituted alkyl group having 1 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 or 2 carbon atoms,

p is an integer from about 1 to about 2000, preferably from about 1 to about 500,

q is an integer from about 1 to about 1000, preferably from about 1 to about 500.

In a preferred embodiment, the polyorganosiloxane is selected from polymers having the formula

In the above formula,

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₄ , p and q are as defined above.

As defined herein, p and q represent the number of Si—O bonds in the polymer chain and R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ may vary from one monomer unit to the next unit. For example, polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use herein include methyl vinyl dimethicone, methyl vinyl diphenyl dimethicone and methyl vinyl phenyl methyl diphenyl dimethicone.

In order to obtain crosslinking between the polyorganosiloxane polymer and the crosslinker, the (-Si-H) group must be crosslinked with a -Si- (CH ₂ ) _n CH = CH ₂ group, so for any particular crosslinking group R ₂ should be different in the polyorganosiloxane polymer and the crosslinker. For example, in the case of any cross-linking of R ₂ in the polyorganosiloxane polymer _{- (CH 2) n CH =} CH 2 when, in the cross-linking agent R ₂ must be H, and, as also the reverse. However, there may be a mixture of R ₂ in each polyorganosiloxane polymer and crosslinker.

In a preferred embodiment, the polyorganosiloxane polymer is selected from alkylarylpolysiloxane polymers having the formula:

In the above formula,

R ₂ is selected from —CH═CH ₂ or H, preferably —CH═CH ₂ ,

l is an integer from about 1 to about 1000, preferably from about 1 to about 500,

m is an integer from 0 to about 1000, preferably from about 0 to about 500,

n is an integer from about 1 to about 1000, preferably from about 1 to about 100.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyorganosiloxane polymer is selected from alkylarylpolysiloxane polymers having the formula

In the above formula,

l, m and n are as defined above. In a preferred embodiment, m is about 1 to about 1000, preferably about 200 to about 800.

The first silicone containing phase also includes a silicone oil. Any straight chain, branched and cyclic silicone suitable for use in the skin care composition can be used herein. Silicone oils can be volatile or nonvolatile. Silicone oils suitable for use herein include silicone oils having a weight average makeup of about 100,000 or less, preferably about 50,000 or less. Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from silicone oils having a weight average molecular weight of about 100 to about 50,000, preferably about 200 to about 40,000. In a preferred embodiment, the silicone oil is selected from dimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and phenyl methicone, and mixtures thereof, most preferably phenyl methicone.

Suitable materials for use in the first silicone containing phase are sold under the trade names KSG, such as KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-17, KSG-18, supplied by Shinnets Chemical Co., Ltd. It is possible. These materials contain a mixture of crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone oil. Especially preferred for use herein in admixture with an organic amphipathic emulsifier is KSG-18. Designated INCI names for KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-17 and KSG-18 are cyclomethicone dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, cyclomethicone dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and phenyl trimethicone dimethicone / phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

The composition herein also preferably comprises a second noncrosslinked silicone containing phase. In a preferred embodiment, the second silicone containing phase is present in about 0.1% to about 20%, particularly about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the composition.

Suitable silicone fluids for use in the second silicone containing phase include nonvolatile polyalkyl and polyaryl siloxane gums and fluids, volatile cyclic and linear polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkoxylated silicones, amino and quaternary ammonium modified silicones and mixtures thereof. And other insoluble silicones.

In a preferred embodiment, the second silicone containing phase comprises a silicone gum or a mixture of silicones including silicone gums. As used herein, the term "silicone gum" means a high molecular weight silicone-based fluid having an excess weight average molecular weight of about 200,000 and preferably about 200,000 to about 400,000. Silicone oils generally have a molecular weight of less than about 200,000. Typically, the silicone gum has a viscosity at 25 ° C. in excess of about 1,000,000 mm ² .s ⁻¹ . U. S. Patent No. 4,152, 416, issued May 1, 1979 to Silicon Black Spitzer et al. And Noll, Walter, Chemistry Technology of Silicones , New York; Academic Press 1968, including dimethicones as described by Petrarch et al. Silicone gums are also described in General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE30, SE33, SE54 and SE76.

Silicone gums suitable for use herein include any silicone gum suitable for use in skin protection compositions. Silicone gums suitable for use herein are silicone gums having a molecular weight of about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone and mixtures thereof.

Dimethiconol-based silicones suitable for use herein may have the following formula:

HO (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO [(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _n (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiOH

In the above formula,

n is about 2000 to about 40,000, preferably about 3000 to about 30,000.

Examples of fluorosilicones useful herein may have a molecular weight of about 200,000 to about 300,000, preferably about 240,000 to about 260,000 and most preferably about 250,000.

Specific examples of silicone gums include polydimethylsiloxanes, (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymers, poly (dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

As used herein, silicone gums can be mixed into the composition as part of a silicone mixture. When the gum is mixed as part of the silicone mixture, the silicone gum preferably comprises from about 5% to about 40%, in particular from about 10 to 20% by weight of the silicone mixture. The silicone or silicone mixture preferably comprises about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent of the composition, more preferably about 0.1 to about 15 weight percent, especially about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent.

Suitable silicone gum silicone mixtures for use in the second silicone containing phase of the compositions herein are essentially

(i) silicones having a molecular weight of about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone and mixtures thereof; And

(ii) a silicone-based carrier having a viscosity of about 0.65 mm ² .s ⁻¹ to about 100 mm ² .s ⁻¹ , wherein the ratio of (i) :( ii) is about 10:90 to about 20:80 geomgye component comprises a mixture comprising a has a final viscosity of about 500mm ² .s ^-1 to about 10,000mm ² .s ^-1).

Silicone-based carriers suitable for use herein include certain silicone fluids. The silicone fluid can be one of polyalkylsiloxane, polyarylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxane or polyethersiloxane copolymer. Mixtures of these fluids can also be used, which are preferred for any implementation.

The polyalkyl siloxane fluids that may be used is for example at 25 ℃ comprises a polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of from about 0.65 to 600,000mm ² .s ^-1, preferably from about 0.65 to about 10,000mm ² .s ^-1. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the Viscasil (RTM) series of General Electric Company and the Dow Corning 200 series of Dow Corning. Essentially nonvolatile polyalkylarylsiloxane fluids that can be used include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes having a viscosity of about 0.65 to 30,000 mm ² .s ⁻¹ at 25 ° C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid from General Electric Co. or 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning. Also suitable for use herein are certain volatile cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes having a ring structure containing from about 3 to about 7 (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO residues.

Viscosity can be measured with a glass capillary viscometer as defined in Dow Corning Corp. Test Method CTM0004 dated July 29, 1970. Preferably, the viscosity of the silicone blend constituting the second fluid phase is from about 500 mm ² .s ^-1 to about 100,000 mm ² .s ^-1 , preferably from about 1000 mm ² .s ^-1 to about 10,000 mm ² .s ^-1 to be.

Particularly preferred silicone-based components for use in the compositions herein are dimethiconol gums having a molecular weight of about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 with a silicone carrier having a viscosity of about 0.65 to 100 mm ² .s ⁻¹ . Examples of this silicone component are Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85% 5 mm ² .s- ¹ dimethicone fluid / 15% dimethiconol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401 available from Dow Corning.

Another class of silicones suitable for use with the second silicone containing phases herein include polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers containing at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment, The polydiorganosiloxane segment has R _b SiO _{(4-b) / 2} siloxane units, where b has a value from about 0 to about 3 in total, which is about 2 R per silicon for all siloxane units in the copolymer. Is the average value of the radicals, R is a divalent radical which binds the polyoxyalkylene segment to the methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and polydiorganosiloxane segments, wherein at least about 95% of all R radicals are methyl and the poly The oxyalkylene segment has an average molecular weight of at least about 1000 and consists of about 0 to about 50 mole percent polyoxypropylene units and about 50 to about 100 mole percent polyoxyethylene units, wherein the poly At least one terminal end of the cyalkylene segment is bonded to the polydiorganosiloxane segment, and any terminal portion of the polyoxyalkylene segment is not bound to the polydiorganosiloxane segment, but is satisfied by a terminal radical, wherein the Weight ratio of the polydiorganosiloxane segment to the polyoxyalkylene segment of has a value of about 2: has a value of about 8.). Such polymers are described in US Pat. No. 4,268,499.

Preferred for use herein are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers having the formula

In the above formula,

x and y are selected such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segment to polyoxaalkalkylene segment is about 2: about 8,

the molar ratio of a: (a + b) is about 0.5: about 1,

R is a chain terminator, in particular hydrogen; Hydroxyl; Alkyl (eg methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl); Aryl (eg phenyl); Alkoxy (eg methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, butoxy); Benzyloxy; Aryloxy (eg phenoxy); Alkenyloxy (eg, vinyloxy and allyloxy); Acyloxy (eg acetoxy, acryloxy and propionoxy) and amino (eg dimethylamino).

The number and average molecular weight of the segments in the copolymer are such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably about 2.5: about 4.0.

Suitable copolymers are under the trade names Belsil (RTM) and H4 0 Waiel Middlesex Louis from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Postbach de-8000 Munich 22 Geschetzbereis, Germany. Sleep in Victoria Road Tego House. Commercially available under the trade names Abil (RTM) such as Bellsil (RTM) 6031 and Abil B88183 from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd. Particularly preferred copolymers for use herein include Dow Corning DC3225C with a dimethicone / dimethicone copolyol of the CTFA specification.

Optional ingredients

In a preferred embodiment, the third oil phase is present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the composition. The third oil phase may be a separate phase or may form one phase with one or both of the first and second silicon phases. Preferably, the third oil phase is a separate phase.

The third oil phase preferably comprises non-silicone organic oils such as natural or synthetic oils selected from mineral oils, vegetable oils and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof, Softeners are useful for obtaining cosmetic properties. The first oil phase component is preferably essentially free of silicone, ie it contains only about 10%, preferably only about 5%, of silicone-based material. It will be understood that the oil phase may contain, for example, up to about 25%, preferably only up to about 10%, of the oil phase soluble emulsifier component. Such components are not considered oil phase components in view of the oil phase content and the required measurement of HLB. In a preferred embodiment, the total required HLB of the oil phase is about 8 to about 12, in particular about 9 to about 11, and the required HLB is determined by multiplying each required HLB value for each component of the oil phase by its W / W percentage in the oil phase. (See the ICI literature on the HLB system; see ICI reference paper 51/0010/303 / 15m, first edition 1976, revised 1984 and May 1992).

Suitable first oil phase components for use herein include, for example, optionally hydroxy-substituted C ₈ -C ₅₀ unsaturated fatty acids and their esters, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and octyldodecyl myristate. C ₁ -C ₂₄ esters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ saturated fatty acids such as (Wickenol 142), beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols (e.g. behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol), hydrocarbons (mineral oil, waseline and squalene), sorbitan Fatty esters (see US Patent Application No. 3988255, issued to Seiden, October 26, 1976), lanolin and lanolin derivatives, animal and vegetable triglycerides (e.g., almond oil, soybean oil, malt oil, Linseed oil, jojoba oil, apricot seed oil, walnut, palm fruit, pistachio fruit, sesame seed, rapeseed seed, cad oil, corn oil, peach fruit oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado Crude oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, shea butter, shorea butter and sunflower seed oil), diisopropyl dimerate, diisostearyl maleate, diisostearyl dimerate and triiso C ₁ -C ₂₄ esters of dimeric and trimer acids, such as stearyltrimerate. Of these, mineral oil, waselin, unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof, and mixtures thereof are highly preferred.

Preferred embodiments herein comprise about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of unsaturated fatty acids or esters. Preferred unsaturated fatty acids and esters for use herein are optionally hydroxy substituted C ₈ -C ₅₀ unsaturated fatty acids and esters, especially esters of ricinoleic acid. Unsaturated fatty acid or ester components are useful herein in the form of mixtures with liquid crystal forming emulsifiers to improve the skin feel and rub properties of the composition. Cetyl ricinoleate is very preferred for this purpose.

In addition to the organic amphipathic surfactant, preferred components of the present compositions are polyol ester skin conditioning agents.

The composition of the present invention preferably comprises about 0.01 to about 20 weight percent, more preferably about 0.1 to about 15 weight percent, and particularly about 1 to about 10 weight percent polyol ester. The amount of polyol ester per weight of oil in the composition is preferably about 1 to about 30%, more preferably about 5 to about 20%.

Preferred polyol esters for use herein are non-occluded liquid or liquefiable polyol carboxylic acid esters. These polyol esters are derived from polyol radicals or residues and one or more carboxylic acid radicals or residues. In other words, these esters contain residues derived from polyols and one or more residues derived from carboxylic acids. These carboxylic esters can also be derived from carboxylic acids. Since the terms carboxylic acid and fatty acid are often used by those skilled in the art, these carboxylic acid esters may also be described as liquid polyol fatty acid esters.

Preferred liquid polyol polyesters for use in the present invention include certain polyols, especially sugars and sugar alcohols, esterified with four or more fatty acid groups. Thus, the polyol starting material must have at least four esterifiable hydroxyl groups. Examples of preferred polyols are sugars and sugar alcohols, including monosaccharides and disaccharides. Examples of monosaccharides containing four hydroxyl groups are sugar alcohols derived from xylose and arabinose and xylose having five hydroxyl groups, ie xylitol. Eryrose, the monosaccharide, is not suitable for the practice of the present invention because it contains only three hydroxyl groups, but sugar alcohols derived from erythrose containing four hydroxyl groups, ie erythritol, can be used. Suitable five hydroxyl group containing monosaccharides are galactose, fructose and solvose. Also suitable are sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol) containing six —OH groups derived from sucrose as well as hydrolysis products of glucose and sorbose. Examples of disaccharide polyols that can be used include maltose, lactose and sucrose, all of which contain eight hydroxyl groups.

Preferred polyester polyols for use in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, glucose and sucrose. Sucrose is particularly preferred.

Polyol starting materials having at least 4 hydroxyl groups are esterified on at least 4 —OH groups with fatty acids containing from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms. Examples of such fatty acids are caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid , Arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid. Fatty acids can be derived from naturally occurring or synthesized fatty acids; These include regioisomers and geometric isomers and may be saturated or unsaturated. However, in order to provide a preferred liquid polyester for use herein, at least about 50% by weight of the fatty acids incorporated into the polyester molecules should be unsaturated. Particular preference is given to oleic acid and linoleic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Polyol fatty acid polyesters useful in the present invention should contain at least four fatty acid ester groups. Not all hydroxyl groups of the polyol need to be esterified with fatty acids, but it is preferred that the polyester contains only two unesterified hydroxyl groups. Most preferably, almost all hydroxyl groups of the polyol are esterified with fatty acids, ie the polyol residues are almost completely esterified. The fatty acids esterified in the polyol molecule can be the same or mixed, but as mentioned above, a significant amount of unsaturated acid ester groups must be present to provide fluidity.

To illustrate the above, sucrose fat triesters would not be suitable for use herein because they do not contain the required four fatty acid ester groups. Sucrose 4-fatty acid esters may be suitable, but are not preferred because they have two or more unesterified hydroxyl groups. Sucrose 6-fatty acid esters would be preferred because they have only two unesterified hydroxyl groups. Highly preferred compounds in which all hydroxyl groups are esterified with fatty acids include liquid sucrose 8-substituted fatty acid esters.

Non-limiting examples of specific polyol fatty acid polyesters containing four or more fatty acid ester groups suitable for use in the present invention are: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraester of soybean oil fatty acid (unsaturated), mixed soybean oil Mannose tetraester of fatty acid, galactose tetraester of oleic acid, arabinose tetraester of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexaester of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acid, xylitol pentaoli Eights, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate and mixtures thereof.

As noted above, highly preferred polyol fatty acid esters are those wherein the fatty acids contain from about 14 to about 18 carbon atoms.

Preferred liquid polyol polyesters for use in the present invention have a complete melting point of less than about 30 ° C., preferably less than about 27.5 ° C., more preferably less than about 25 ° C. The complete melting point reported in the present invention is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

Polyol fatty acid polyesters suitable for use in the present invention can be prepared by a variety of methods well known to those skilled in the art. Such methods include the use of various catalysts to transesterify polyols to methyl, ethyl or glycerol fatty acid esters; Acylation of polyols with fatty acid chlorides; Acylation of polyols with fatty acid anhydrides; And acylation of polyols with fatty acids themselves. US Patent No. 2,831,845; See US Pat. No. 4,005,196, issued Jan. Jank, January 25, 1977.

Very preferred components of the composition herein are urea present at a level of preferably from about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 10 weight percent, in particular from about 1 to about 5 weight percent of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the oily and organic amphiphilic surfactant is premixed in water at a temperature above the kraft temperature of the organic amphiphilic surfactant (but preferably less than about 60 ° C.) prior to the addition of urea to the liquid in water A crystal / oil dispersion is formed. Urea has been found to be particularly effective in the present invention in combination with the amphiphilic emulsifier surfactant and polyol fatty acid polyesters to provide significant skin hydration and softening associated with an oil-in-water skin protection emulsion composition. Moreover, it has been surprisingly found that urea makes the composition more stable to hydrolysis, allowing for an increase in the pH of the composition.

A wide variety of optional ingredients can be added to the skin compositions of the invention, such as non-occlusive moisturizers, wetting agents, gelling agents, neutralizing agents, flavoring agents, coloring agents and surfactants.

The composition of the present invention may comprise a humectant. Wetting agents suitable for use in the present invention include sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose derivatives, hexanetriol, glycerin, glycine, hyaluronic acid, arginine, ajidew (NaPCA), water-soluble poly Glyceryl methacrylate lubricants and pentenols. Preferred humectants for the present invention are glycerin (sometimes known as glycerol or glycerin). Chemically, glycerin is 1,2,3-propanetriol and is commercially available. One major source of such materials is from the manufacture of soaps. Glycerin is particularly preferred for the compositions of the present invention in terms of activating moisturizing action. Butylene glycol is also preferred for use in the present invention. Particularly preferred in view of the activation of moisturizing action is a mixture of glycerin and urea.

In the compositions of the present invention, the humectant is preferably present at a level of about 0.1 to about 20%, more preferably about 1 to about 15%, particularly preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight of the composition.

Polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are available under Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, NY 11787 under the trade name Lubrajel (RTM). Can be. In general, rubragel may be described as a hydrate or inclusion formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with methacrylic acid polymer. The hydrate or clathrate is then stabilized with a small amount of propylene glycol and then the hydration of the product is controlled. Lubragels are available in several grades with varying glycerate: polymer ratios and viscosities. Suitable lubragels include Lubrazel TW, Lubrazel CG and Lubrazel MS, Lubrazel WA, Lubrazel DV and so-called Lubrazel oils.

A minimum amount (up to about 5% by weight of the composition) of the wetting agent may be incorporated in a mixed form with the particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material. The carrier material and the wetting agent can be added to either the aqueous phase or the dispersed phase.

Such copolymers are particularly valuable in reducing oiliness and controlling oils while providing effective moisturizing benefits. The crosslinked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the form of a copolymer lattice in which one or more active ingredients are uniformly dispersed and collected throughout. On the other hand, the hydrophobic polymer may take the form of porous particles having a surface area (N ₂ , BET) in the range of about 50 to 500, preferably 100 to 300 m ² / g and in which the active ingredient is absorbed.

The crosslinked hydrophobic polymer is preferably present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight and is preferably incorporated into the external aqueous phase. The active ingredient may be one or more or a mixture of skin miscible oils, skin miscible humectants, emollients, moisturizers and sunscreens. In one embodiment, the polymeric material is in powder form, which is a combined system of particles. The powder particle system comprises a lattice comprising unit particles having an average diameter of less than about 1 μ, aggregates of fused unit particles having an average diameter of about 20 to 100 μ and aggregates of fused aggregate groups having an average diameter of about 200 to 1,200 μ. Form.

The powder material of this embodiment can be broadly described as a crosslinked "after absorbed" hydrophobic polymer lattice. The powder is preferably encapsulated and dispersed in an active substance, which may be in solid, liquid or gaseous form. The lattice is in particulate form and constitutes free flowing separated solid particles in the active material formulation. The lattice may contain a predetermined amount of active material. Suitable polymers have the formula:

In the above formula,

The ratio of x to y is 80:20, R 'is -CH ₂ CH ₂ -and R "is-(CH ₂ ) ₁₁ CH ₃ .

Hydrophobic polymers are highly crosslinked polymers, more particularly highly crosslinked polymethacrylate copolymers. The material is manufactured by Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Michigan, USA) and sold under the trade name POLYTRAP (RTM). It is an ultralight free flowing white powder and the particles can absorb large amounts of lipophilic liquid and some hydrophilic liquid and at the same time maintain free flowing powder properties. The powder structure consists of a lattice of less than 1 μ unit particles that are fused into 20 to 100 μ agglomerates, which aggregate loosely into large particles or aggregates of about 200 to about 1200 μ size. The polymer powder may contain about four times its weight in fluids, emulsions, dispersions or molten solids.

Adsorption of the active material onto the polymer powder can be carried out using a stainless steel mixing vessel and a spoon wherein the active material is added to the powder and the spoon is used to gently foam the active material into the polymer powder. The low viscosity fluid may be adsorbed by adding the fluid to a closed container containing the polymer and then tumbling the materials until a constant consistency is obtained. Blending devices that require more labor may also be used, for example ribbon or twin cone blenders. Preferred active ingredients for use in the present invention are glycerin. Preferably, the weight ratio of wetting agent: carrier is about 1: 4 to about 3: 1.

Also suitable as highly crosslinked polymethacrylate copolymer is Microsponges 5647. It takes the form of generally spherical crosslinked hydrophobic polymer particles having a pore size of about 0.01 to about 0.05 μm and a surface area of 200 to 300 m ² / g. In addition, the above wetting agent is preferably blended.

The composition of the present invention may also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably at a level of about 0.01 to about 10%, more preferably about 0.02 to about 2%, especially about 0.02 to about 0.5%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20 ° C., Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa · s, more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa · s, in particular at least 50,000 mPa · s.

Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described as water soluble or colloidal water soluble polymers and include cellulose ethers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar rubber , Hydroxypropyl guar rubber and xanthan rubber.

Preferred hydrophilic gelling agents for the present invention, however, are acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, and carboxyvinyl polymers (commercially available from B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade name Carbopol resin). These resins consist essentially of colloidal water-soluble polyalkenyl polyethers, which are crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with 0.75 to 2.00% of a crosslinker, for example polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples are carbopol 934, carbopol 940, carbopol 950, carbopol 954, carbopol 980, carbopol 951 and carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% of the polyallyl ether of sucrose with an average of about 5.8 allyl groups per sucrose molecule. The most preferred polymer is Carbopol 954. Also suitable for the present invention are hydrophobically modified, amphiphilic, crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, which are trademarked Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA designation: acrylate / 10- Trialkyl acrylate crosspolymers). Mixtures of polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked acrylic acid polymers and hydrophobically modified crosslinked acrylic acid polymers are also suitable and are preferred for use in the present invention. The gelling agents of the present invention are particularly valuable in providing excellent stability at both room and elevated temperatures.

Suitable neutralizing agents for use in the neutralization of the acidic group-containing hydrophilic gelling agents of the present invention include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine.

The compositions of the present invention are in the form of emulsions and are at least about 4,000 mPa · s, preferably about 4,000 to about 300,000 mPa · s, more preferably about 8,000 to about 200,000 mPa · s, in particular about 10,000 to about 100,000 mPa · s. , Even more particularly, to have a product viscosity in the range of about 10,000 to about 50,000 mPa · s (25 ° C., pure, Brookfield RVT spindle 5).

The composition of the present invention may also contain about 0.1 to about 10%, preferably about 1 to about 5%, panthenol humectant. Pentenol humectants are D-panthenol ([R] -2,4-dihydroxy-N- [3-hydroxypropyl)]-3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal It can be selected from jelly, panthetin, pantothene, panthenyl ethyl ether, panic acid, pyridoxine, pantoyl lactose and vitamin B complex. Very preferred in terms of skin protection and reduced adhesion is D-panthenol.

The composition of the present invention may further comprise from about 0.001% to about 0.5%, preferably from about 0.002% to about 0.05%, more preferably from about 0.005% to about 0.02% by weight of carboxymethylchitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide present in the shells of lobsters and crabs, and is a mucopolysaccharide having a beta (1-4) bond of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. Carboxymethylchitin is prepared by treating purified chitin material with alkali followed by monochloroacetic acid. It is commercially available under the trade name Chitin Liquid from A & E Connock Ltd., Fordingbridge, Hampshire, England in the form of a dilute (approximately 0.1 to 0.5% by weight) aqueous solution.

Other optional materials include keratases such as salicylic acid; Proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; Water soluble or solubilizing preservatives such as Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, bromopol (2-bromo -2-nitropropan-1,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; Antibacterial agents such as Irgasan (RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferably between about 0.1 and about 5% levels); Soluble or colloid-soluble moisturizers such as hyaluronic acid and starch-grafted sodium polyacrylates such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 Available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and disclosed in USA-A-4,076,663; Vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and vitamin K; Alpha and beta hydroxy acids; Aloe vera; Sphingosine and phytosphingosine, cholesterol; Skin whitening agents; N-acetyl cysteine; coloring agent; Fragrances and fragrance solubilizers and additional surfactants / emulsifiers, for example fatty alcohol ethoxylates, ethoxylated polyol fatty acid esters, wherein the polyols are glycerin, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol, sorbitan, propylene glycol, glucose And sucrose). Examples include glyceryl monohydroxy stearate and stearyl alcohol, ethoxylated with an average of 10 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol, and PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides.

Also useful in the present invention are sunscreens. Various sunscreen agents are disclosed in U. S. Patent No. 5,087, 445 to Haffey et al. On Feb. 11, 1992; US Patent No. 5,073,372, issued to Turner et al. On December 17, 1991; US Patent No. 5,073,371 to Turner et al. On December 17, 1991; And Segarin et al., Cosmetics Science and Technology , Chapter VIII, p. 189. Preferred among the sunscreen agents useful in the compositions of the invention are 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole -5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomentyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, 3-benzyl Liden camphor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide, Parsol MCX, Eusolex 6300, octocrylene, parsol 1789 and their Mixture.

Other useful sunscreen agents are described in US Pat. No. 4,937,370 to Sabatelli, dated June 26, 1990; And US Pat. No. 4,999,186, issued to Sabatelli et al. On March 12, 1991. The sunscreens disclosed in these patents have two different chromophore moieties that exhibit different ultraviolet absorption spectra in one molecule. One of the chromophore residues absorbs UVB rays predominantly, and the other strongly absorbs UVA rays. These sunscreens provide higher efficacy, broader UV absorption, less skin penetration and longer lasting efficacy than conventional sunscreens. Particularly preferred examples of these sunscreen agents are 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone and 4-N, N- with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane. (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4- (2 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester of -hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, and mixtures thereof.

In general, sunscreen agents may comprise from about 0.5 to about 20% of compositions useful in the present invention. The exact amount will vary depending upon the sunscreen chosen and the desired sunscreen index (SPF). SPF is a commonly used measure of photoblocking of sunscreens on erythema (see Federal Register , Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269, August 25, 1978).

The composition of the present invention may further comprise about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent aluminum starch octenylsuccinate. Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate is an aluminum salt of the reaction product of octenylsuccinic anhydride and starch, commercially available from National Starch & Chemical Ltd under the trade name Dry Flo. Dry flow is useful in the present invention in terms of skin feel and application properties.

Other optional materials of the present invention include pigments which, when water insoluble, contribute to the overall level of oil phase components and are included above. Suitable pigments for use in the compositions of the present invention may be organic and / or inorganic pigments. The term pigment also includes low coloring or low gloss materials such as matt finishes and also light scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, aciglutamate iron oxides, ultramarine blue, D & C dyes, carmines and mixtures thereof. Depending on the type of composition a mixture of pigments will typically be used. Preferred pigments for use in the present invention in terms of moisturizing, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion miscibility are treated pigments. The pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithins and ester oils.

The pH of the composition is preferably about 4 to about 9, more preferably about 6 to about 8.0.

The remainder of the composition is an aqueous carrier suitable for topical application to water or skin. The water content in the compositions of the present invention is generally about 30 to about 98.89% by weight, preferably about 50 to about 95% by weight, in particular about 60 to about 90% by weight.

The compositions of the present invention are preferably in the form of moisturizing creams or lotions, which can be applied to the skin as leave-on products.

The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

Examples I to V

Example number I /% II /% III /% IV /% V /% Cetyl alcohol 0.72 0.5 0.8 0.65 0.75 Stearic acid 0.11 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.1 Stearette 100 0.1 0.1 0.15 0.15 0.15 Profile paraben 0.17 0.08 0.07 0.15 0.07 Arlaton (RTM) 2121 (1) 1.0 2.0 1.5 1.0 4.0 glycerin 3 4 8 2.5 3.5 Carbopol (RTM) 1382 0.1 0.075 0.08 0.075 0.075 Carbopol (RTM) 954 0.7 0.56 0.5 0.65 0.45 Na4 EDTA 0.1 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.1 Methyl paraben 0.2 0.2 0.175 0.175 0.175 NaOH (40% solution) 1.0 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Dimethicone Q21403 1.0 1.0 0.5 2.0 1.0 TiO ₂ 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Spices 0.2 0.2 - 0.2 - Urea 2.5 1.5 3 2 2.5 SEFA (2) 0.0 0.0 2.5 2.0 2.2 Octyldodecyl benzoate 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 1.0 KSG-18 (3) 3.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.0 Silicon Dioxide (4) 1.5 1.5 2.0 3.0 0.0 Polyethylene Beads (5) 0.0 1.5 2.0 0.0 3.0 coloring agent 0.0004 0.0002 0.0003 0.0 0.0 water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 1. Liquid sucrose polyester, which is a mixture of hexa-, hepta- and octa-sucrose esters, with octa-esters predominant, fed from ICI 2, mixed cottonseed oil fatty acids. Supplied by Shinetsu Chemical Co. Ltd. 4. Silica beads SB-3005 supplied by Miyoshi Kasei Inc. Flovid LE-1080 supplied by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals Co. Ltd.

The composition is prepared as follows:

First, a first premix of thickener, silicon dioxide (if present), methyl paraben, glycerin / TiO ₂ premix, arlatone 2121 and other water soluble ingredients (apart from urea) was mixed in water and heated to about 80 ° C. Manufacture. A second premix of oily ingredients other than silicone gum is mixed and heated and added to the aqueous premix.

The resulting mixture is cooled to about 60 ° C. NaOH solution, EDTA, polyethylene (if present), silicone gum, KSG-18 (if present) and then urea solution (1 g dissolved in 1 ml of water) are added to the resulting oil-in-water emulsion and the mixture is added as a minor component. Cool before adding them. Package the composition.

The composition exhibits improved moisturizing, skin feel and skin protection properties with reduced oil and excellent rub and quick absorption properties.

Claims (33)

(a) about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of the particulate component having an average particle size of about 50 microns or less; (b) about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent of organic liquid crystal-forming amphipathic surfactant; (c) emulsified oil phase; And (d) skin care compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsifiers comprising water The method of claim 1, Wherein the particulate component has an average particle size of about 30 microns or less. The method according to claim 1 or 2, Wherein the particulate component has an average particle size of about 20 microns or less. The method according to claim 1 or 2, Wherein the particulate component further comprises inert inorganic metal oxides, particulates derived from silicon or mixtures thereof. The method according to claim 1 or 2, A composition wherein the particulate component further comprises silicon dioxide. The method according to claim 1 or 2, A composition comprising from about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent particulate component. The method according to claim 1 or 2, Amphiphilic surfactant is selected from polyol esters, alkoxylated polyol esters and mixtures thereof. The method according to claim 1 or 2, The skin care composition wherein the surfactant is a blend of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. The method according to claim 1 or 2, An oily component comprising from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight (based on the weight of the composition) of the liquid polyol carboxylic acid ester having a polyol residue and at least 4 carboxylic acid residues, further from about 1 to about 60% by weight (based on the weight of the composition) Wherein the polyol moiety is selected from sugars or sugar alcohols containing from about 4 to about 8 hydroxyl groups, each carboxylic acid moiety has from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, and the liquid polyol carboxylic acid ester is less than about 30 ° C. Skin protection composition having a complete melting point of. The method of claim 9, Wherein the liquid polyol carboxylic acid ester contains up to about 2 free carboxyl groups. The method of claim 9, The composition wherein the carboxylic acid residue has from about 14 to about 18 carbon atoms. The method of claim 9, The polyol moiety is selected from erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, glucose, sucrose and mixtures thereof. The method of claim 9, Wherein the polyol residue is sucrose. The method of claim 9, Wherein the liquid polyol carboxylic ester has a complete melting point of less than about 27.5 ° C. The method of claim 9, Wherein the liquid polyol carboxylic acid polyester has a complete melting point of less than about 25 ° C. The method of claim 9, The liquid carboxylic polyol ester is selected from sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate and mixtures thereof. The method according to claim 1 or 2, The emulsified oil phase (c) comprises a silicone containing phase comprising a crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer and a silicone oil, wherein the composition comprises from about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent of the mixture of the crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone oil. A composition comprising%. The method of claim 17, A composition comprising from about 0.5 to about 10 weight percent of a crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer and a silicone oil, based on the weight of the composition. The method of claim 17, And wherein the mixture of crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone oil consists of about 10 to about 40 weight percent silicone oil, based on the weight of the mixture. The method of claim 17, Wherein the crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer comprises a polyorganosiloxane polymer crosslinked by a crosslinking agent, wherein the crosslinking agent has the formula Formula 3 Where R ₁ is methyl, ethyl, propyl or phenyl, R ₂ is H or — (CH ₂ ) _n CH═CH ₂ , n is about 1 to about 50, z ranges from about 1 to about 1000. The method of claim 20, A composition wherein the crosslinker is of Formula 10: Where x ranges from about 1 to about 1000. The method of claim 20 or 21, And wherein the crosslinked polysiloxane polymer comprises from about 10 to about 50 weight percent crosslinking agent based on the weight of the crosslinked polysiloxane polymer. The method of claim 20 or 21, The composition wherein the polyorganosiloxane polymer is selected from polymers having the formula Formula 6 Where R ₁ is methyl, ethyl, propyl or phenyl, R ₂ is H or — (CH ₂ ) _n CH═CH ₂ , n is about 1 to about 50, R ₃ and R ₄ are independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl and phenyl, p is an integer ranging from about 1 to about 2000, q is an integer ranging from about 1 to about 100. The method of claim 20 or 21, The composition wherein the polyorganosiloxane polymer is selected from polymers having the formula Formula 8 Where l is an integer ranging from about 1 to about 1000, m is an integer ranging from 0 to about 1000, n is an integer ranging from about 1 to about 1000. The method of claim 24, and m is in the range of about 1 to about 1000. The method of claim 20 or 21, Wherein the silicone oil is selected from silicone oils having a weight average molecular weight in the range of about 100,000 or less. The method of claim 20 or 21, The silicone oil is selected from dimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, phenyl methicone and mixtures thereof. The method of claim 20 or 21, Wherein the silicone oil is phenyl methicone. The method according to claim 1 or 2, And wherein the particulate component comprises a mixture of silicon dioxide and polyethylene in a weight ratio of about 3: 1 to about 1: 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, A skin care composition also comprising about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent urea. The method according to claim 1 or 2, Wetting agents selected from glycerin, polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants, butylene glycol, sorbitol, panthenol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose derivatives, hexanetriols, glucose ethers and mixtures thereof also include from about 0.1 to about 20 A skin protection composition comprising% by weight. The method of claim 31, wherein A skin care composition wherein the humectant is glycerin. (a) about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of the particulate component comprising polyethylene and having an average particle size of about 50 microns or less; (b) emulsified oil phase; And (c) Leave-on moisturizing emulsifier comprising water.