BR102013009302A2 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR RIPE SKIN, USE OF SUCH COMPOSITION AND UNDERSTANDING KIT - Google Patents

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR RIPE SKIN, USE OF SUCH COMPOSITION AND UNDERSTANDING KIT. The present invention relates to compositions comprising a mixture of polysaccharides, a mixture of oligosaccharides, glycerin, ceramides, plant extracts and alcohol. The composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one of triglycerides, PCA, pentanediol, additional plant extracts, carotenoid, antioxidants and sunscreens or a mixture thereof. The present invention further relates to the use of said composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for the maintenance of mature, anti-aging or antisignal skin and a kit comprising said composition.

Description

Report of the Invention Patent for "COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR MATURE SKIN, USE OF SUCH COMPOSITION AND UNDERSTANDING KIT".

Field of the Invention The expectations and needs of consumers over 70 years old regarding their skin have been gaining attention in the last decades, as well as the number of scientific studies related to the subject, so that it is currently possible to select appropriate treatments with relevant biological criteria. The deepest signs of the passage of time cannot be eliminated, but it is possible to treat the skin in such a way that it maintains a healthy appearance - at this stage, positive self-perception is a determinant of well-being.

Data show that from the age of 70, skin metabolism is slower, cells respond less to stimuli, communication or transfer of signals and nutrients is slow, and skin layer components are structurally damaged. Dehydration, fragility and sensitivity are the most striking features of this skin. From 70 years the skin needs special and differentiated care compared to those applied until this age.

At this stage, efforts should be focused not on treatment to prevent or reverse wrinkles or signs, but on the cleansing and moisturizing steps of the skin, focusing on reducing dryness and fragility, as well as protecting it from further functional damage that may occur or even be intensified. The present invention relates to compositions for maintaining mature skin and / or an anti-aging or antisignal composition comprising a mixture of polysaccharides, a mixture of oligosaccharides, glycerin, ceramides, plant extracts and alcohol. The present invention further relates to the use of said composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for maintaining mature, anti-aging or antisignal skin and the kit comprising said composition.

Background of the Invention The skin is part of the integumentary system and is the largest organ in the human body. Its main function is the protection of other organs of the human body and underlying tissues from environmental damage and external pathogens. The skin also has the role of maintaining body temperature acting as a thermostat. The skin is anatomically and functionally divided into three layers, namely epidermis, dermis and hypodermis. The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin and is composed of a multi-stratified epithelium formed by numerous layers of flattened epithelial cells.

In the epidermis, keratinocytes are initially allocated to the innermost basal layer located near the dermo-epidermal junction (JDE). As the differentiation process takes place, the keratinocytes move to a more superficial position in the epidermis. From there, these cells contribute to the formation of the stratum corneum, a layer of dead cells filled with keratin and lipids, which contributes to the skin's barrier function. The epidermis also contains other cells, such as Langerhans, which are responsible for the body's defense, and melanocytes, whose function is to produce melanin, a pigment that provides protection of cells against the harmful effects of solar radiation.

Lipids (oily molecules) present in the stratum are present in the spaces between cells and are essential for the organization and functioning of the skin barrier, forming a water resistant barrier around the cells. Among these lipids that constitute the skin barrier, the major components are ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids (Benny, 2003; Junqueira et al., 1991).

In the stratum corneum, ceramides are present around cells called corneocytes and are essential for the organization and functioning of the skin barrier, forming an oily matrix around the corneocytes. This lipid matrix is organized into lamellae forming the "brick and cement" model of the skin barrier (Benny, 2003; Elias et al, 1988). The dermis is located immediately under the epidermis and consists of connective tissue. The epidermis and dermis are separated by the region called the dermo-epidermal junction, where there are bonds from one layer to another. These bonds are called interdigitations and contribute to the cohesion of the skin layers. The dermis consists of a fibrous matrix and several cell types. The matrix is made up of collagen, which can represent up to 98% of the dermis dry weight, as well as elastic fibers, microfibrils, glycosaminoglycans and proteoglycans, which together contribute to the firmness and resistance of the skin. The main cell type found in the dermis is fibroblast. In addition to producing collagen and elastin, fibroblasts are involved in skin healing, JDE formation along with keratinocytes, intercellular communication with the epidermis (via cytokines and growth factors, for example), among others. The dermis also contains several blood vessels, sebaceous glands (produce sebum) and sweat (produce sweat). The hypodermis, in turn, is an inner layer formed by adipocytes (adipose tissue) that function as triglyceride deposits and, in addition to supporting the epidermis and dermis and absorbing the internal organs from the impact of shocks, acts as an insulating layer for conserve body heat.

One of the main functions of the skin is the formation of a solid barrier resistant to the penetration of external substances potentially harmful to normal homeostasis, as well as the transport of internal water to the outside of the body. Said solid barrier formed by the skin has as its fundamental component the spatial organization of ceramides around the corneocytes. This organization of ceramides prevents and / or minimizes water loss through the epidermis. An imbalance in the skin barrier can result in dehydration and more directly expose the skin to external aggression. Factors that cause imbalance include the use of detergents, stress, mechanical shocks, different from physiological pH, calcium deficiency, among others (Benny, 2003; Junqueira et al., 1991).

With technological and medical advancement, life expectancy is generally increasing. As life expectancy has increased, there has been much concern for the well-being of older people, who remain active for a longer period of time. Consequently, skin aging has been the focus of numerous research studies so that it is currently possible to select appropriate treatments based on relevant biological criteria. Knowledge of the biological changes that occur in the skin during aging is important to understand the consequences of this process, which directly affect skin quality at maturity.

The cells of the epidermis are linked together by cellular junctions, which guarantee the cohesive property of this layer. With aging, epidermal cohesion is reduced - a reflection of the reduction in the number and quality of joints. With reduced cohesion, the skin barrier property is impaired. The result is a more fragile skin, prone to peeling and loss of shine. In addition, with the deficiency of the protective barrier, the skin is more susceptible to the entry of foreign substances, which often causes the presence of itching. Damage to the barrier also contributes to accelerating the loss of water through the epidermis (transepidermal), resulting in dryness and roughness and roughness of dehydrated skin. Age also drastically decreases the number of dermo-epidermal junctions as interdigitations undergo a flattening process. This transformation leads to a smaller contact surface between the dermis and the epidermis, which creates separation points between the layers, increasing brittleness and allowing the formation of cracks or wounds. This change also compromises nutrient communication and transfer between the layers, affecting the immune (defense) functions of the skin. The speed of epidermal cell differentiation and stratum corneum formation also decreases, causing a lesser renewal of these layers. Epidermal turnover decreases up to 50% from 20 to 70 years. Due to this fact, the skin healing process is becoming slower and slower. In addition, with the smaller turnover, the epidermis and stratum corneum become thinner (contributing to the rough appearance of the skin). In addition, Langerhans cells responsible for activating immune defenses are beginning to die (50% decrease from 40 to 70 years); As the replacement rate is reduced, the skin's natural ability to defend itself from external aggressors is compromised. This fact, coupled with the modifications described above, make aging skin more prone to contact dermatitis, allergies, irritation, itching, and skin infections. Aging also results in the reduction of the amount of active melanocytes in the skin at a rate of up to 20% per decade from 40 years. Remaining melanocytes may have uncontrolled activity, which may result in pigmentation irregularities (skin blemishes), in addition to increasing vulnerability to cellular damage caused by solar radiation.

With aging, the main change in the dermal layer is the pronounced reduction in the number of active fibroblasts and hence the production of extracellular matrix fibers. The elastic system reaches the peak of molecular maturity during the second decade of life, but undergoes progressive degeneration from the age of 30. Initially, there is a reduction in the production of precursors that make up the elastic matrix, with the immediate consequence of reducing the amount of elastic fibers and their subsequent disappearance throughout the dermis, from 50 years of age. From 50 to 70 years of age, severe deformations occur in the thicker remaining elastic fibers, and from the age of 70 large spaces appear within the elastin matrix. These facts added to the degeneration of the remaining molecules end up making the elasticity function unfeasible. Damage to the elastic system makes the skin loose, flabby, poorly resilient, and poorly deformed in extensive processes.

Collagen fibers undergo a process of degradation similar to fibers in the elastic system, starting with the reduction of collagen precursors and continuing with the continuous breakdown of existing fibers (1% per year from 30 years). The glycation process, which immobilizes and stiffens collagen, also intensifies from the age of 40. All these processes lead to a reduction in the number of fibers and, consequently, the thickness of the dermis. This fact, coupled with the sharp flattening of the dermis-epidermis junctions, results in reduced skin tone, increased wrinkles and sagging.

In addition to reducing fiber and cells, the glands undergo changes that impact the appearance of the skin. The sweat glands continually enter the process of atrophy, contributing to the state of dry skin and processes such as dryness (dryness), as well as formation of itching zones (aggravated by the barrier changes described above). The sebaceous glands are hypertrophied, making the pores more visible, but have reduced activity (23% per decade from 40 years), leading to drastic reduction of oiliness, which accelerates the process of drying and aging of the skin. There are also external factors that influence the aging of the skin. The most common and known is sun exposure. Sun exposure is the environmental factor that most contributes to skin aging, accelerating this process. Ultraviolet B (UVB), ultraviolet A (UVA) and infrared A (ARI) radiation activate biological mechanisms (usually involving the formation of free radicals) that accelerate the process of collagen fiber degradation and elastic fiber deformation, contributing to significantly deepen wrinkles and increase sagging.

Due to all these factors, numerous studies have been conducted and various products have been developed to prevent, retard and / or treat the signs caused by aging skin. The applicant itself has already developed and currently markets antisignal products for various age groups. Among the products sold, we can mention Chronos® antisignal creams (25+, 30+, 45+ and 60+). Although antisignal cosmetic compositions are already marketed by the depositor himself, Chronos® line compositions targeting the 30, 45 and 60 year age groups do not have the same effects and benefits as the inventive composition of the present invention. The composition of the present invention, in addition to enhancing hydration by stimulating water absorption and promoting firmness and elasticity of the skin, acts by stimulating the production of profilagrins and phyllagines. There are numerous patent documents referring to antisignal and / or anti-aging compositions for the treatment and / or maintenance of mature skin. There are still several patent documents and literature articles whose described compositions comprise some components of the present invention.

US 6,391,320, US 2010303872, US 2010166814, US 2004142007 and FR 2,877,222 are directed to compositions comprising a plant extract obtained from the underground Voandzea species.

WO 2011/026039, FR 2,915,897, EP 1,765,266, US 2010166814 and EP 1,618,800 are directed to compositions comprising a plant extract obtained from the Castanea sativa species. Patent application PI0409264-3 relates to compositions comprising a polysaccharide mixture of rhamnose and fucose.

The articles on "Effect of Expression of Genes in the Sphingolipid Synthesis Pathway on the Biosynthesis of Ceramide in Saccharomyces Ce Revision" by Kim, SK et al. (2010) and "Progress in the Analysis of Stratum corneum ceramides" by Raith, K et al (2004) reveal the importance of waxes in the maintenance of the skin barrier and in the prevention of dehydration There are other documents that refer to the treatment of mature skin such as WO 2010/049457, WO 2010 / 049011, WO 2006/053688 and EP 1,815,843.

However, there is no document referring to a composition comprising a mixture of polysaccharides, a mixture of oligosaccharides, glycerin, ceramides, plant extracts and alcohol for the maintenance of mature skin and / or an anti-aging or antisignal composition. Nor, the compositions disclosed in the prior art do not achieve the results observed with the composition described in the present patent application.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An embodiment of the present invention relates to mature, anti-aging or antisignal skin care compositions comprising a mixture of polysaccharides, a mixture of oligosaccharides, glycerin, ceramides, plant extracts and alcohol for the maintenance of mature skin and / or an anti-aging or antisignal composition.

In the context of the present invention, mature skin is skin of 70 years of age or older. The polysaccharide mixture of the present invention preferably comprises L-fucose and L-rhamnose, which is Elastinol + R®.

Preferably, the mixture of oligosaccharides (biosaccharide-5 gum) of the present invention consists of Dermoglycids®. The glycerin used in the inventive composition of this patent application is preferably of plant origin and the plant extracts used are preferably chestnut and peanut extracts, more particularly Portuguese chestnut extract and African peanut extract. The ceramide of the composition of the present invention is preferably passion fruit ceramide. The alcohol used in the inventive composition of the present patent application is preferably a sesquiterpene alcohol, more particularly alfaisabolol. Particularly, the alcohol used is candeia, of plant origin. The composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one of triglycerides, PCA (carboxyl pyrrolidol acid), penta-nodiol, additional plant extracts, carotenoid, antioxidants and sunscreens or a mixture thereof. More particularly, triglyceride is capric / caprylic triglyceride, PCA is calcium PCA, pentanediol is 1,2-pentanediol, the additional plant extract is coffee extract, more particularly green coffee extract, carotenoid is lycopene, the antioxidant is a tocopherol, more particularly vitamin E, the sunscreen is selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sulfonic acid, avobenzone, octyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate or a mixture thereof. preferred is diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate In a more particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises (in weight percentages of the composition): Elastinol + R® 0.5 to 4% Dermoglycids® 0.05 to 4% Passion Fruit Ceramides .05 to 5% Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride 0.5 to 10% Portuguese Chestnut Extract 0.50 to 8% Calcium PCA 0.05 to 3% Alfabisabolol 0.05 to 15% Glycerin 0.5 to 10% Peanuts 0.5 to 10% 1.2 pentanediol 0.50 to 10% Coffee extract 0.01 to 5% Lycopene 0.01 to 5% Vitamin E 0.001 to 5% Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 0.5 to 10% Sulfonic acid 0.05 to 10% Avobenzone 0, 5 to 10% Octylene Salicylate 0.5 to 10% Octocrylene 0.5 to 10% Homosalate 0.5 to 10% Another embodiment of the invention relates to the use of the composition in the preparation of a cosmetic composition for maintaining mature skin. anti-aging or antisignals.

A further embodiment of the present invention relates to a kit comprising the inventive composition contained in a pot, instructions for use and a cartridge.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES Figure 1 shows increased production of tropoelastine (elastin precursor) in culture of human fibroblasts treated with Elasti-noI + R® (FROP's - oligo and polysaccharide-rich Fucose fraction: L-fucose, D -galactose, galacturonic acid Figure 2 shows the increased density of Elastinol + R® treated dermal collagen fibers (Fodil-Bourahla et al 2003) Figure 3 shows the increase in the number of epidermal cells treated with Elastinol + R® Figure 4 shows the increase in the number of Elastinol + R®-treated dermis cells Figure 5 is a comparison of the thickness increase of the Elastinol + R® and retinol-treated epidermis Figure 6 shows increased production of the enzyme E-cadherin after the use of Portuguese chestnut extract) in three distinct concentrations, namely 0.5%, 1% and 2%. Figure 7 shows the inhibition of the production of the peeling enzyme (Desmogleina-1) after the use of Portuguese chestnut extract in three different concentrations, namely 0.5%, 1% and 2%. Figure 8 compares the amount of prophylagrins and filagrins (immunohistochemically marked in green) in the skin before treatment with African peanut extract (Filaggryl) (untreated control on the left) and after 48 hours of treatment (skin treated on the right). ). Figure 9 compares the amount of prophylagrins and phyllagrins (immunohistochemically labeled in green) in human keratinocyte culture prior to treatment with African peanut extract (left untreated culture) and after 7 days of treatment (right treated culture). ). Figure 10 shows the degradation kinetics of the 70+ antisignal moisturizer sample considering the initial measurement without irradiation and after 1, 2, 4 and 8 hours of natural sun exposure equivalence for the composition of the present invention comprising diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sulfonic acid and avobenzone. Figure 11 reflects the significant improvement in the attributes Rough / Expression, Firmness, Elasticity, Resistance, Softness, Hydration, Uniformity of skin tone, Signs of aging, Texture and General Appearance after evaluation of volunteers by a dermatologist. at times DO, D7, D14, D28 and D56.

Figures 12A and 12B reflect the significant improvement in Immediate Hydration, Immediate Firmness, Softness, Hydration, Firmness, Elasticity, Aging Signals, General Appearance, Strength, Expression, Oiliness, Pores, Texture, Uniformity of skin tone, Protection and Restoration after evaluation of the volunteers themselves at times DO, D7, D14, D28 and D56.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The first clinical signs of skin aging are noticeable at around 30 years of age and are evident from the age of 40 or 50 years (for example, perception of decreased tone and increased sagging). At this stage, skin cells are still responsive to topical, chemical and physical cosmetic treatments (peeling, alpha-hydroxy acids, retinoids, laser, exfoliating), which can slow down the mechanisms related to aging, stimulate cell renewal and, in particular. In some cases, reduce signs that are already evident.

Some of the biological changes that occur during 40 or 50 years will be clinically evident only around 60 years. In relation to skin thickness, for example, until the age of 50, the loss of collagen is being counterbalanced by the rearrangement of the remaining fiber network, which delays the significant reduction in skin thickness. However, from the age of 60, the reduction in skin layer thickness (a process started decades earlier) can be appreciably perceived and compromise its related functions. It is also from this age that the reduction in adherence of stratum corneum cells, corneocytes, begins to aggravate the dryness and peeling of the skin. From the age of 70, collagen, elastin and proteoglycan fibers are severely compromised and deformed - some molecules are even absent. This compromise presents a practically irreversible characteristic, given the significant reduction in the number of cells responsible for matrix production, followed by the inability of the remaining cells to respond adequately to the stimuli to produce these structures. At this stage, JDEs are practically nonexistent, generating separation points between the skin layers, which compromises the communication processes or signal transfer between cells. In addition, significant loss of subcutaneous tissue, reduced muscle tone, and retraction of the mandibular bone all contribute to alteration of the facial and mouth features and ultimately accentuate sagging and deepen skin roughness, such that Performing skin treatments would be insufficient to attenuate these signs. The high degree of dehydration is another typical and striking feature of the skin of people aged 70 and over. This feature results from a combination of several factors, such as the atrophy of about 50% of the sweat glands, limited sebum secretion, and critical barrier function deficiency, which accelerates the process of water loss through the skin, making it more The extremely dry. Also, at this age the expression of aqua-porins (proteins that facilitate water transport through cell membranes) and claudin-1 and filaggrin (proteins that help maintain water in the epidermis) is severely affected, causing an intense imbalance. The constant dehydration, added to the thin thickness, makes the skin more fragile and prone to breakage, often leading to the presence of abrasions, erythema, peeling and itching. These conditions can be aggravated by increased susceptibility to infections as at this stage the number of cells in the immune system is reduced by about 50% compared to a 40 year old. Because cellular turnover is reduced and microcirculation is markedly deficient (60% reduction from normal levels), substances that come into contact with the skin take longer to remove. Thus, the contact time of these substances is increased, providing greater chances of antibody formation and the emergence of processes such as allergy, irritation, itching and contact dermatitis. The healing process is also significantly compromised due to the deficiency of collagen production and the low response of the vascular system. It is also noteworthy that between the ages of 70 and 90, the sensory components of the skin are reduced to 1/3 of the amount present in youth (around 10 years of age), resulting in approximately 20% less sensitive skin. to pain - for this reason, scratching the skin, for example, may be more intense than its fragile structure can withstand, causing wounds whose healing process is slow and extensive.

In general, the main changes in the skin after 70 years of age are marked dehydration, increased roughness, high degree of roughness, severe loss of elasticity and significant increase in sagging. Parallel to these signals, the results of these transformations can be summed up by loss of barrier function, reduced immune response prone to infections, difficulty absorbing topical treatments and eliminating previously absorbed molecules, and loss of sensory sensitivity. Even though some of these functions are treatable (eg, strengthening the barrier), there is no evidence that changes in the skin after age 70 can be reversed, eliminated or corrected through cosmetic treatments. Surgical or microsurgical interventions are the most used procedures in an attempt to rejuvenate this age group.

Thus, the most appropriate skin treatments for individuals over 70 years of age consist of daily and careful skin cleansing, proper hydration and treatment through assets capable of maintaining or restoring some of the biological functions. The cleansing process helps in eliminating bacteria and other harmful substances present in the skin. Because 70-year-old skin is prone to breakage and has a lower degree of immune efficiency, resulting in increased susceptibility to infections and abrasions, daily cleansing is recommended.

As a recommendation, skin cleansers should be mild, in the form of creamy emulsions with non-aggressive detergent action and neutral pH. Cleansers should remove impurities without aggressively reducing the remaining oiliness on the skin, at the risk of further damaging the skin barrier and increasing its permeability.

More severe procedures such as microdermabrasion should be avoided at this stage due to the fragility of the skin and may even result in undesirable consequences such as hyperpigmentation, cracking and scarring.

After cleansing, the skin should be exposed to powerful moisturizing formulations at least twice a day. The high degree of dehydration is responsible for the dry and rough appearance typical of the skin of people over 70 years. Dehydration contributes to the extreme fragility of the skin as it generates discomfort, itching and irritation resulting in the formation of itching, sores and pain or burning processes.

Therefore, mature skin can be effectively hydrated mainly by occlusive methods, ie with ingredients that permeate the stratum corneum, fill the skin barrier and prevent transepidermal water loss. The thinness of mature skin and the damaged barrier increase the difficulty of maintaining hydration. Ingredients such as ceramics can recover and fortify the skin barrier.

Finally, it is noteworthy that moisturizing formulations should contain mild and non-irritating ingredients to prevent the appearance of erythema, peeling and burning sensation.

Another important factor is the protection of the skin against damage caused by solar radiation.

A significant percentage of skin wrinkles, flecks, sagging and dehydration is caused by constant exposure of the skin to solar radiation. For this reason, daily sun protection is a treatment recommended since youth.

Although after the age of 70 years the process of photoaging is already quite advanced, the use of sunscreen is extremely important, since this procedure protects the skin from inflammatory processes, which may be more aggressive for people of this age. In addition, it is important to remember that at this stage the amount and distribution of melanin (radiation-absorbing pigment that reduces free radical attack) is compromised, so that the nucleus of skin cells, as well as DNA, is compromised. more susceptible to the undesirable effects of radiation. Also, the ability to repair DNA damage is also extremely compromised. For these reasons, sunscreen should be considered as an important treatment to be maintained.

Although mature skin cannot be rejuvenated, proper topical treatments can result in healthier, more resilient skin. In addition to care aimed at reducing dehydration and fragility of this specific skin type, some biological functions can be maintained or reversed with the aid of specific actives such as antioxidants, brighteners, ingredients that help reduce skin sensitivity and fragility, among others. Table 1 summarizes the main changes in the skin of individuals aged 70 and over, as well as the causes of these changes and the indicated treatment, when applicable. In short, at this stage efforts should be focused not on preventing or reversing wrinkles or signs, but on the cleansing and moisturizing steps of the skin, focusing on reducing dryness and brittleness as well as protecting it from further damage that may be further intensified. The present invention relates to compositions for maintaining mature skin capable of meeting the specific needs of this skin. The composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of polysaccharides, a mixture of oligosaccharides, glycerin, ceramides, plant extracts and alcohol.

More specifically, the polysaccharide mixture of the present invention comprises L-fucose and L-rhamnose, preferably Elastin + R +. Elastinol + R® is a fucose and rhamnose-based asset developed by Natura Ltda. (Protection for this asset was requested through patent application PI0409264-3) and is currently one of the main signal processing technologies. aging in commercially available products.

This active acts on the main signs of skin aging, stimulating collagen production, regulating elastin production, promoting cell renewal and redensifying the skin. It is a mixture of polysaccharides (sugars), obtained through biotechnological processes from carbohydrate rich vegetable inputs, such as potato broth. More specifically, Elastinol + R® is a combination of two raw materials: biosaccharide gum 2 and biosaccharide gum 3. Elastinol + R® acts to regulate elastin production, which is the fibers that provide the characteristic of elasticity. of the skin. The result is more elastic skin (Figure 1) (Robert et al, 2004a).

Results of in vivo studies on emulsion-treated mice containing rhamnose-rich sugars, retinol-containing emulsion and placebo (control) emulsion at a frequency of 5 times per week for 4 weeks further demonstrated that Elastinol + R® promotes an increase in the production of dermis collagen fibers (Robert et al, 2004b). This increase in the production of dermis collagen fibers is responsible for the improvement of skin firmness (Figure 2) (Fodil-Bourahla et al, 2003).

As natural aging occurs, the skin loses its ability to renew itself: fewer cells are produced, resulting in a loss of thickness and fewer substances such as collagen, elastin and colloidal gel, leading to sagging and decreased skin. skin density (Robert et al., 2003). Elastinol + R® stimulates epidermis and dermis renewal (Figures 3 and 4). This increased cell turnover in the epidermis results in thicker, dense, dense and compact skin (Figure 5), giving the skin a lighter appearance and smooth appearance. Elastinol + R® also acts by stimulating the production of important molecules that form the extracellular matrix (also known as colloidal gel), glycosaminoglycans (Isnard et al., 2004).

Glycosaminoglycans are polysaccharide chains formed by two repeated disaccharide units. The structure of these units confers a hydrophilic character to the glycosaminoglycan molecule, which aids in the capture of water molecules by the extracellular matrix, providing greater hydration of the skin.

In this way, Elastinol + R®, due to its wide action on the dermis and epidermis, provides an increase in skin thickness and volume, which contributes to the filling of skin and wrinkles, returning a smooth, soft and healthy appearance. to the skin (Fodil-Bourahla et al, 2003; Isnard et al., 2004).

Studies on this active agent show that Elastinol + R® improves firmness, elasticity, colloidal gel strengthening, cell redensification and stimulates dermal cell renewal.

Preferably, the oligosaccharide mixture contained in the composition of the present invention consists of Dermoglycides®.

Dermoglycids® are low molecular weight oligosaccharides (sugars) of plant origin obtained by a biotechnological process.

During the aging process several changes occur in the collagen and elastin fibers present in the skin. These modifications include the action of sugars on a group of amino acids in certain proteins, such as elastin and collagen, to form cross-linked structures known as end-products of advanced glycation. "glycati-on end-products"). The accumulation of these EFAs in the fibers (elastin and collagen) interferes with the normal function of the skin, hindering its regeneration. Dermoglycids®, as low molecular weight sugars, protect the skin from toxicity of these AGE's, thus avoiding the glycation reaction and preserving the integrity of the fibers and cells.The result is firmer, less wrinkled skin.The glycerin used in the composition of this patent application is preferably of plant origin. Glycerin of plant origin is widely known and used as a wetting agent, that is, it promotes the absorption of water on the skin surface. thus favoring hydration The composition of the present invention preferably comprises chestnut and peanut plant extracts, more particularly Portuguese chestnut extract and African peanut extract. Portuguese chestnut extract is an extract of plant origin extracted from the botanical species Castanea sativa that acts in the repair of the skin's skin barrier. The Portuguese chestnut is a medium-sized tree that produces hedgehogs from which the chestnuts are removed. Fruiting occurs in spring and summer. These nuts are floury and sweet, being eaten cooked. Its fruit contains an edible and delicious almond, which is externally covered by a capsule lined with thin and penetrating thorns, a kind of hedgehog. When the fruit ripens, the hedgehog opens, offering the chestnut. The extract obtained from the Portuguese chestnut is rich in sugars and uronic acid that promote increased production of proteins known with E-cadherins that are responsible for the formation of demosomes (Figure 6). Sugars and uronic acid further reduce the action of enzymes that promote cell desquamation (Figure 7).

Therefore, the Portuguese nut extract is able to stimulate cell differentiation as well as reduce peeling and, consequently, there is an improvement in the maintenance of the skin barrier. Portuguese chestnut extract also stimulates proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes by increasing the production of involucrins and profilagrins, two proteins responsible for the formation of the skeleton inside the cells. Thus, there is a significant increase in the production of cell membrane lipids and ceramides.

Thus, the Portuguese chestnut extract restores the cohesion / desquamation balance of the stratum corneum, contributing to the maintenance of the skin barrier. African peanut extract (Voandzeia subterranean), in turn, acts on the skin favoring the synthesis of two important proteins: profilagrin and filaggrin. Prophylagrin is the most commonly found protein in the skin, processed in cell differentiation to generate smaller structures, the phyllagrines. These smaller filaggrin structures are called monomers and are involved in the formation of skin keratin filaments. Filagrins assist in the composition of cornified envelope proteins (complex mixture of proteins that confer skin resistance) and completely degrade in the stratum corneum to produce amino acids that will compose NMF and ensure the maintenance of natural skin hydration.

In vitro tests were performed using said African peanut extract. The first test was performed directly on skin portions and led to the conclusion that African peanut extract has the ability to increase the production of profilagrins and phyllagrines after just 48 hours of treatment with the peanut extract (Figure 8). The second test was performed on keratinocyte cultures and, once again, the influence of treatment after 7 days with this extract on the expression of the profilagrins and filagrins proteins was verified (Figure 9).

Therefore, African peanut extract clearly favors the synthesis of prophylagrins and phyllagrins. The ceramide of the composition of the present invention is preferably the passion fruit ceramide which has the formula: Passion fruit ceramide is a plant-derived active that also acts as a barrier repair. cutaneous Unlike passiflora extract, passion fruit ceramides come from the seeds of another passion fruit species, namely Passiflora edulis. Ceramide is one of the lipid components that form the stratum corneum. In the stratum corneum, ceramides are present around the corneaocytes and are essential for the organization and functioning of the cutaneous barrier that acts to prevent and / or minimize water loss through the skin. A fuller skin barrier results in greater hydration of the skin and consequently in its overall appearance, as it prevents the loss of water to the environment.

As skin hydration happens from the inside out, the integrity of the skin barrier is of utmost importance to prevent water loss. Passion fruit ceramide strengthens the skin barrier to aid skin treatment, preventing dehydration as well as preventing foreign / aggressive substances from coming into direct contact with the skin.

In the composition of the present invention, a complex developed by the applicant called Chronos HydraPro® 70+ may be used which already combines in its formulation vegetable glycerin, passion fruit ceramide, African peanut extract and Portuguese chestnut extract.

More specifically, said complex comprises (in weight percentages of the composition): Glycerin 0.5 to 10% Passion Fruit Ceramides 0.05 to 5% African Peanut Extract 0.5 to 10% Portuguese Chestnut Extract 0.50 to 8% Chronos HydraPro® 70+ complex used in the composition of the present invention provides water absorption, lipid layer replacement, envelope protein stimulation (with double effect - sensitized skin) and adhesion stimulus. The alcohol used in the inventive composition of the present patent application is preferably a sesquiterpene alcohol, more particularly alfaisabolol. Alphaisabolol is a known active ingredient widely used in the cosmetic industry. According to the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), by the year 1997, about 180 different types of cosmetic formulations had the active ingredient incorporated into their compositions. Alphabisabolol provides skin conditioning and dermal effect, which is important for skin treatment, especially for weaker skin, either by mechanical action such as shaving or by the skin's own characteristics, such as older skin. . Natural alfaisabolol is the main component of the essential oil from candeia (Eremanthus erythropappus). The use of alfaisabolol in cosmetic products helps to reduce the damage caused (erythema) by UV radiation to the skin.

In addition to the components described above, the composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one of triglycerides, PCA, pentanediol, additional plant extracts, carotenoid, antioxidants or a mixture thereof. More particularly, triglyceride is capric / caprylic triglyceride, PCA is calcium PCA, pentanediol is 1,2-pentanediol, additional plant extract is coffee extract, more particularly green coffee extract, carotenoid is lycopene and the antioxidant is a tocopherol, more particularly vitamin E. The capric / caprylic triglyceride is a plant-based emollient that has high skin compatibility and aids in the healing process. Coffee extract is obtained through an elaborate extraction process of coffee, particularly green coffee. Coffee (Coffea robusta) has about 2.5% caffeine in its composition and substances such as chlorogenic acids that have high antioxidant capacity and are present in green coffee in concentrations 3 to 5 times higher than caffeine itself. The coffee extract used in the present invention is a highly purified extract and, due to the high concentration of chlorogenic acids, has excellent antioxidant capacity and preservation of important cellular architecture structures.

Carotenoids are organic pigments synthesized by plants and some microorganisms. Due to its special chemical structure, lycopene is considered the carotenoid with the greatest antiradical potential over one of the most important forms of free radicals generated in the body. Tocopherol plays a fundamental role in the preservation of cell membranes by its action of capturing free radicals formed in skin biochemical reactions or caused by sun exposure. Thus tocopherol interrupts the ripple effect of more radical formation, protecting the skin structures (colloidal gel, elastin and collagen) and minimizing their degradation.

In the composition of the present invention, a complex developed by the applicant called Natura Antioxidant Complex - CAO may be used, which already combines in its formulation green coffee extract, vitamin E and lycopene.

More specifically, said complex comprises (in weight percentages of the composition): Green coffee extract 0.01 to 5% Lycopene 0.01 to 5% Vitamin E 0.001 to 5% For mature skin the use of sunscreen is important. , as this procedure protects the skin from inflammatory processes, which can be more aggressive to people over 70.

Therefore, the composition of the present invention may further comprise sunscreens. The sunscreen comprised in the composition of the present application may be selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sulfonic acid and avobenzone or a mixture thereof, the preferred Uvinul being diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) . The photostability of a given composition is a very important point that should be taken into consideration when choosing a sun protection product.

Photostable filters retain their ultraviolet-absorbing properties throughout sun exposure. For this, they must be inert to UV radiation. If they are not, chemical bonds can be formed leading to the formation of new molecules, which may lose their absorption power or even not absorb UV radiation, and may cause adverse skin reactions.

If the filter is not photostable it may cause burns due to decreased protection beyond the effects of photoaging. Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sulfonic acid or avobenzone or a mixture thereof used in the composition of the present invention exhibit photostability.

More particularly, but not limiting, the composition of the present invention comprises (by weight percentages of the composition): Elastinol + R® 0.5 to 4% Dermoglycids® 0.05 to 4% Passion Fruit Ceramides 0.05 to 5 % Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride 0.5 to 10% Portuguese Chestnut Extract 0.50 to 8% PCA Calcic 0.05 to 3% Alfabisabolol 0.05 to 15% Glycerin 0.5 to 10% Peanut Extract 0.5 to 10% 1.2 pentanediol 0.50 to 10% Coffee extract 0.01 to 5% Lycopene 0.01 to 5% Vitamin E 0.001 to 5% Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 0.5 to 10% Sulfonic acid 0.05 to 10% Avobenzone 0.5 to 10% Octyl Salicylate 0.5 to 10% Octocrylene 0.5 to 10% Homosalate 0.5 to 10% The present invention further relates to the use of the inventive composition in the preparation of a cosmetic composition. for the maintenance of mature, anti-aging or antisignal skin.

Additionally, the present invention relates to a kit comprising the inventive composition contained in a pot, instructions for use and a cartridge. The instructions for use may be in a separate leaflet that will be properly packaged in the cartridge along with the pot containing the inventive composition of the present invention or written directly on the cartridge either inside, outside or both.

Examples Numerous tests have been performed with the most preferred composition of the present invention as will be described below.

Safety Tests Basically, six safety tests were performed, namely PC5 with tape stripping, patch testing, phototest, comedogenicity, skin acceptability and ophthalmologic evaluation.

The PC5 results with tape stripping demonstrated that the product showed very good skin compatibility. The patch test study led to the conclusion that the composition of the present invention did not induce the process of skin irritation and sensitization during the study period. The phototest led to the conclusion that the composition of the present invention did not cause photoallergy and phototoxicity during the study period. The comedogenicity study in use demonstrated that no comedogenic potential was observed for the composition of the present invention.

The results of the skin acceptability test in use demonstrated that the composition of the present invention has good skin acceptability.

In the ophthalmologic evaluation, no significant changes were observed.

Efficacy Tests Skin Barrier Fortification The composition of the present invention when applied to the skin in the forearm region significantly strengthened the skin barrier when compared to the skin without application of any products (control) after 14 and 28 days of continuous use.

The percentage values obtained for skin barrier strengthening in relation to initial skin state and control were: 17% after 14 days of use and 42% after 28 days of use.

Corneometry Hydration The application of the composition of the present invention to the skin in the forearm region provided statistically significant hydration when compared to the skin without application of any products (control). This indicated that the product moisturized the skin. The composition kept the skin hydrated for 24 hours after application and increased the skin's hydration level by up to 54.4%.

UVB / UVA Protection and Photostability The application of the most preferred composition of the present invention comprising Uvinul 5430, sulfonic acid and avobenzone, had an average sun protection factor (SPF) of 34.50 in the in vivo test. In addition, this composition presented persistent pigment darkening (PPU) UVA (1/3 SPF) and photostability (Figure 10).

Effectiveness in use with perceived volunteers Volunteers were included according to age.

The following attributes were evaluated by the dermatologist and the volunteers themselves at all times mentioned on the volunteers 'facial skin:?' Wrinkle Degree; ? ' Wrinkles / Expression Lines; ? ' Signs of aging; ? ' Degree of sagging; ? ' Firmness; ? ' Elasticity; ? ' Resistance; ? ' Softness; ? ' Uniformity of skin tone; ? ' Hydration; ? ' Texture; ? ' Oiliness; ? ' General appearance; and ?' Pores. A. Significant results, evaluated by the dermatologist The volunteers were evaluated by a dermatologist through clinical efficacy questionnaires at the following times:? DO: After 7 days of the wash-out period, prior to application of the composition of the present invention; ? ' D7: After 7 +/- 2 days of use of the composition; ? ' D14: After 14 +/- 2 days of use of the composition; ? ' D28: After 28 +/- 2 days of use of the composition; ? ' D56: After 56 + 1-2 days of use of the composition.

The attributes Wrinkles / Expression Lines, Firmness, Elasticity, Resistance, Softness, Moisturizing, Uniformity of skin tone, Signs of aging, Texture and General Appearance had significant improvement assessed by the dermatologist as can be seen in Figure 11. Results assessed by the volunteer's perception The methodology used for the evaluation of perceived efficacy was performed according to the "Standard Guide for Sensory Claim Substantiation" (ASTM E 1958-06, 2006).

The volunteers received a mirror and were instructed to evaluate the skin through a Volunteer Questionnaire at the following times:? ' DO: After 7 days of wash-out period; · / D7: After 7 +/- 2 days of use of the composition; Δ / D14: After 14 +/- 2 days of use of the composition; S D28: After 28 + 1-2 days of use of the composition; > 7 D56: After 56 + 1-2 days of use of the composition.

The volunteers noticed improvement in the attributes Immediate Moisturizing, Immediate Firmness, Softness, Hydration, Firmness, Elasticity, Resistance, Wrinkles / Expression Lines, Reduction of Oils, Pores, Texture, Uniformity of Skin Tone, Protection, Restoration, Signs of Aging and General Appearance as seen in Figures 12A and 12B.

Claims (27)

1. Composition, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of polysaccharides, a mixture of oligosaccharides, glycerin, ceramides, plant extracts and alcohol. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the polysaccharide mixture comprises L-fucose and L-rhamnose. Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the polysaccharide mixture consists of Elastinol + R. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the oligosaccharide mixture consists of Dermoglycides®. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the glycerin is glycerine of plant origin. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the ceramide is passion fruit ceramide. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the plant extracts are chestnut and peanut extracts. Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the nut extract is Portuguese nut extract and the peanut extract is African peanut extract. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the alcohol is a sesquiterpene alcohol. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the sesquiterpene alcohol is alphabetisabolol. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it further comprises at least one of triglycerides, PCA, pentanediol, additional plant extracts, ca-rotenoid, antioxidants and sunscreens or a mixture thereof. Composition according to Claim 11, characterized in that the triglyceride is a capric / caprylic triglyceride. Composition according to Claim 11, characterized in that the PCA is a calcium PCA. Composition according to Claim 11, characterized in that the pentanediol is 1,2-pentanediol. Composition according to Claim 11, characterized in that the additional plant extract is coffee extract. Composition according to Claim 15, characterized in that the coffee extract is green coffee extract. Composition according to Claim 11, characterized in that the carotenoid is lycopene. Composition according to Claim 11, characterized in that the antioxidant is a tocopherol. Composition according to Claim 18, characterized in that the antioxidant is vitamin E. Composition according to Claim 11, characterized in that the sunscreen is selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sulfonic acid and avobenzone, octyl salicylate, octocrene, homosalate or a mixture thereof. Composition according to Claim 20, characterized in that the filter is diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 20, characterized in that it comprises (in weight percentages of the composition): Elastinol + R® 0.5 to 4% Dermoglycids® 0.05 to 4% Passion fruit ceramides 0.05 to 5% Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride 0.5 to 10% Portuguese Chestnut Extract 0.50 to 8% PCA Calcic 0.05 to 3% Alfabisabolol 0.05 to 15% Glycerin 0.5 to 10% Peanuts 0.5 to 10% 1.2 pentanediol 0.50 to 10% Coffee extract 0.01 to 5% Lycopene 0.01 to 5% Vitamin E 0.001 to 5% Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 0.5 to 10% Acid Sulfonic 0.05 to 10% Avobenzone 0.5 to 10% Octyl Salicylate 0.5 to 10% Octocrylene 0.5 to 10% Homosalate 0.5 to 10% Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 22, characterized in that it is a composition for maintaining mature, anti-aging or antisignal skin. Composition according to Claim 23, characterized in that the mature skin is skin 70 years of age or older. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that it is in the preparation of a cosmetic composition for maintaining mature, anti-aging or antisignal skin. Use according to claim 25, characterized in that the mature skin is skin 70 years of age or older. Kit comprising the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 22 contained in a pot, instructions for use and a cartridge.