WO2022021329A1

WO2022021329A1 - Composition for caring for the keratin materials and a method to use thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2022021329A1
Application number: PCT/CN2020/106211
Authority: WO
Inventors: Andy Huang; Kun Yu; Sarah SUN
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2020-07-31
Filing date: 2020-07-31
Publication date: 2022-02-03
Also published as: FR3112950B1; CN116096340A; FR3112950A1

Abstract

It relates to a composition for caring for the keratin materials, comprising two visually distinguishable phases, and comprising: a) at least an aqueous phase, comprising hyaluronic acid salts of low molecular weight; and b) at least an oily phase, comprising a surfactant and an oil for which the required HLB is no more than 13, wherein the surfactant is oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters. The interface of the two phases is substantially clear and can get back to clear within 8 hours after shaking and mixing the product.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR THE KERATIN MATERIALS AND A METHOD TO USE THEREOF

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to skin care cosmetic field, more specifically, it relates to compositions for caring for the keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face. The present invention also relates to a process for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face.

BACKGROUND

Biphase compositions have already been described, for example in documents EP 0370 856 and EP 0 603 080, especially for removing eye makeup.

Document EP 0 603 080 describes the use of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium and especially of benzalkonium chloride as a phase-separation agent, for obtaining rapid phase separation.

Document EP 1 514 534 also describes a biphase composition containing sodium bicarbonate as phase-separation agent.

WO 2014/207259A2 discloses a biphase composition for topical application comprising magnesium acetate.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is generally used at very low levels of the order of 0.01 to 0.5 wt. %because of its high price and the rather sticky and slippery feel that it gives to compositions containing them. To obtain a composition with effective moisturizing properties, it has been developed to formulate hyaluronic acid at high levels, in the presence of a specific surfactant.

However, either the product comprising HMW hyaluronic acid or the product comprising both HMW and LMW hyaluronic acids shows high risk of noodles after application on skin. There is therefore a need for a composition comprising and/or cosmetically sufficient amount of hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof minimizing the risk of noodles.

FR-A-2,645,740, incorporated herein by reference, describes a composition containing an oily phase, an aqueous phase and a solid phase to be mixed immediately before use, the solid phase containing one or more active agents (especially vitamin A) and an emulsifier, and being placed in the cap of a bottle containing the two liquid phases. This packaging allows a long storage time of the composition before mixing the three phases by shaking. After mixing, however, the composition is stable for a few hours, however, it is not easy to keep the two phases substantially clear after shaking and mixing the two phases.

In a composition comprising two phases, if the high molecular polymer such as, sodium hyaluronate, is comprised, it will temporarily stay on the interface of oil droplets, which can stabilize oil droplets and cause the interface got cloudy.

Biphase compositions appeal to consumers on account of their pearly appearance. Therefore, it is important to improve the clearness of the interface of two phases.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

One aim of the present invention is to provide a composition, especially for caring for the keratin materials, comprising two phases, especially the interface of the two phases is substantially clear.

The present inventors have completed the present invention through intensive research.

According to one aspect of the invention, there provides a composition for caring for the keratin materials, comprising two visually distinguishable phases, and comprising:

a) at least an aqueous phase, comprising hyaluronic acid salts of low molecular weight (LMW) ;

b) at least an oily phase, comprising a surfactant and an oil for which the required HLB is no more than 13, wherein, the surfactant is oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the hyaluronic acid salts is of low molecular weight (LMW) . The molecular weight (MW) of the hyaluronic acid salts is preferably less than or equal to 60000 Daltons, more preferably from 15,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons, more preferably from 20000 Daltons to 50000 Daltons.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the hyaluronic acid salt is sodium hyaluronate.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the weight content of the sodium hyaluronate is from 0.0001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 1 wt. %, in terms of the total weight of the composition.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the oil is isononyl isononanoate, squalene and caprylic/capric triglyceride.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the weight content of the oil is from 0.0001 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 0,001 wt. %to 5 wt. %in terms of the total weight of the composition.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the surfactant is non-ionic surfactant.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the surfactant is chosen from one or more within the group of (C1-20) alkylphenols, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide polysorbate type surfactants, alkyl (poly) glycoside type surfactant.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the surfactant is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or mixtures thereof.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the weight content of the surfactant is from 0.001 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 0.05 wt. %, in terms of the total weight of the composition.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the required HLB of the oil is from 5 to 13.

According to certain preferable embodiments of the invention, the composition further comprises a water-miscible polyol, especially the polyol having 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

Another subject of the invention is a non-therapeutic method for caring for a keratin material, preferably the skin and/or the lips, comprising the step of applying to the keratin material the composition as described above.

“Biphase” in this invention means that at least two visually distinguished phases are comprised in the compositions. The at least two phases are separated at least by a single interface. Particularly, the interface of the at least two phases, especially an aqueous phase and an oily phase is substantially clear, and can get back to clear as before within 8 hours after the product is shaken.

The term “substantially clear” is understood to mean a composition having a good stability after 14 times of shaking stability test. More particularly, the interface will get back to substantially clear again just as before shaking, and the clear interface can be stable till next shaking.

As used herein, the term “surfactant-free” means the aqueous phase in the composition of the present invention comprising no surfactant or comprising surfactant in an amount no more than 1 wt. %of surfactant relative to the total composition. Preferably, the composition may contain no more than 0.5 wt. %, more preferably no more than 0.2 wt. %, of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferably, the aqueous phase in the composition of the present invention does not contain surfactant.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention will be further described in detail below in conjunction with the specific embodiments. It will be appreciated that over that other embodiments may be practiced without departing from the scope or spirit of the invention. Therefore, the following detailed description is non-limiting. By "the aqueous phase and the oily phase are separate" , it means that the aqueous phase and the oily phase are visible one on top of the other before shaking.

The biphase composition can be used to care for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, after being shaked to form an instable and uniform oil-in-water emulsion.

By “skin” , it means all the body skin, including the face, the lips and the eyes.

As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "from…to…” .

As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.

As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be substituted for it.

The term “and/or” used herein refers to one or all of the elements mentioned.

All numbers indicating the quantities, and physicochemical properties of a feature used in the specification and claims, unless otherwise indicated, are understood to be modified in all instances by the term “about” . Accordingly, the numerical parameters set forth in above description and the appended claims are approximations unless otherwise indicated, and those skilled in the field are able to use the teachings disclosed herein. The range of values defined by endpoints includes all numbers in the range and any range within the range, for example, 1 to 5 includes 1, 1.1, 1.3, 1.5, 2, 2.75, 3, 3.80, 4, and 5, or the like.

Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase comprises one or more hyaluronic acid salts. The hyaluronic acid salts may be chosen from one or more within: alkali salts such as sodium, potassium salts and other salts, e.g., zinc salts, silver salts, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises sodium hyaluronate.

Preferably, the aqueous phase in the composition is surfactant-free.

The aqueous phase may comprise water and hydrophilic adjuvants (solvents, actives and additives) . The water preferably represents at least 30 wt. %and better still at least 40 wt. %in terms of the total weight of the composition.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises water in a content ranging from 40 wt. %to 99 wt. %in terms of the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 45 wt. %to 95 wt. %, and preferably ranging from 50 wt. %to 90 wt. %by weight in terms of the total weight of the composition.

The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.

The composition may further comprise a water-miscible polyol at ambient temperature (25℃. ) , chosen in particular from polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; and their mixtures.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the water-miscible polyol at room temperature is present in a content ranging from 1 wt. %to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3 wt. %to 20%wt. %.

In addition, the composition according to the invention may comprise a monoalcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, especially in a content ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 20 wt. %in terms of the total weight of the composition in the invention, and preferably in a content ranging from 1 wt. %to 15 wt. %.

Hyaluronic acid salts

Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated linear glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. A hyaluronic acid salt means a hyaluronic acid or a salt of the hyaluronic acid.

A low molecular weight (LMW) hyaluronic acid salt is used in the present invention. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "LMW hyaluronic acid salt" means a hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof having a weight average molecular weight of less than or equal to 60,000 Daltons. In particular, the LMW hyaluronic acid salts in the composition of the invention have a weight average molecular weight of less than or equal to 50000 Daltons, preferably from 10,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons, more preferably from 15,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons, more preferably from 20,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons.

In some embodiments, the hyaluronic acid salt is sodium hyaluronate.

Preferably, the weight content of the hyaluronic acid salt is from 0.0001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 1 wt. %, in terms of the total weight of the composition.

Oily phase

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one oily phase. The oily phase comprises a surfactant and at least one oil, for which the HLB is no more than 13.

More preferably, the required HLB of the oil from 5 to 13.

The required HLB of the oil means that the Hydrophile Lipophilic Balance (HLB) value of the surfactant that will provide the lowest interfacial tension between the oily phase and the aqueous phase. When the two phases have the lowest interfacial tension between each other, the lowest amount of surfactant is needed to achieve a stable emulsion.

The term "oil" means any non-ionic lipophilic compound that is insoluble in water and liquid at room temperature (25℃) and at atmospheric pressure. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-insoluble" refers to a compound whose solubility at spontaneous pH in water at 25℃ and at atmospheric pressure is less than 1%and preferably less than 0.5%.

The oils that are suitable for the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

More preferably, the oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes (also called isoparaffins or isoalkanes) , such as isododecane (also called 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names

or

It is also possible to cite, as a hydrocarbon oil, linear C9-C17 alkanes, such as dodecane (C12) and tetradecane (C14) , sold respectively under the names

12-97 and

14-97 (Sasol) , and, as alkanes obtained according to the method described in the international application WO 2007/068371 A1, such as the undecane (C11) and tridecane (C13) mixture sold under the name

UT (Cognis) .

It is possible to cite, as hydrocarbon oil:

- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, for instance phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203) , diesters such as diisopropyl sebacate, triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, barrage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cotton seed oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's Wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, nut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, winter squash oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soya oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the STEARINERIES DUBOIS company or those sold under the names MIGLYOL

and

by the DYNAMIT NOBEL company,

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane;

- synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula R1 COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 and R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may in particular be selected from fatty acid and alcohol esters, for instance: cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactacte, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, or octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,

- C12-C22, higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and,

- dialkyl carbonates of the following formula (III) :

wherein R1 and R2, identical or different, represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, according to an embodiment, in formula (I) , R1 and R2, which are identical, represents a linear hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

More preferably, the dialkyl carbonate is dicaprylyl carbonate.

In one embodiment, said carbonate is caprylyl carbonate. the two alkyl chains possibly being identical such as the dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL

by COGNIS.

- oils of higher molar mass having in particular a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 650 to approximately 10,000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 750 to approximately 7500 g/mol, and more particularly ranging from approximately 1000 to approximately 5000 g/mol. As oils of higher molar mass that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of the oils selected from:

· lipophilic polymers,

· hydroxylated esters,

· aromatic esters,

· esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols,

· oils of plant origin,

· and mixtures thereof; and

- mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oils are chosen from one or more within below: isononyl isononanoate, squalane and caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Preferably, the content of the oil is from 0.0001 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, in terms of the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants

Surfactant is also called surface active agent. By “non-ionic surfactant” is meant a surfactant which has no charged groups in its head (i.e. the charge of the hydrophilic group is neutral) . The composition contains one or more other non-ionic surfactants.

The non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from (C1-20) alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated. The number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranges from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or alternatively these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units; fatty acid esters of sucrose; polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils, N- (C6-24 alkyl) glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl) amine oxides or N- (C10-14 acyl) aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

Mention may also be made of non-ionic surfactants of polysorbate type, especially, polysorbate 20, also called tween 20.

Mention may also be made of non-ionic surfactants of alkyl (poly) glycoside type, represented especially by the following general formula:

R ₁O- (R ₂O) _t- (G) _v

in which:

- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly) glucoside surfactant. C8-C16 alkyl (poly) glycosides 1, 4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.

Preferably, use is made of C8-C16-alkyl (poly) glycosides 1, 4, especially as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference

818 UP.

Preferentially, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl) (poly) glycosides, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, polyethoxylated C8-C30 fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters, these compounds preferably containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oxyalkylene chain of the oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol is preferably an oxyethylene chain.

More preferably, it may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups, and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups.

Examples of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol that may be mentioned more particularly include (INCI name) PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof.

As illustration of the non-ionic surfactants, mentions may be made of PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, such as those sold by the company Nof corporation under the tradename Uniox Gt 20IS L.

Examples of other non-ionic surfactants that may be mentioned include oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan, esters of fatty acids and of polyols; oxyalkylenated or non-oxyalkylenated ethers of fatty alcohols and of polyols, and mixtures thereof.

Surfactants of this type that may be mentioned more particularly include:

- oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan such as (INCI name) Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 85, PEG 5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan septaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG 20 sorbitan trioleate;

- fatty acid esters of polyglycerol such as (INCI name) Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl 3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate or Polyglyceryl-10 Trilaurate;

- fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as (INCI name) PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-6 Oleate, PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-12 Isostearate, PEG-12 Diisostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-8 Diisostearate or PEG-10 Isostearate;

- oxyalkylenated, especially oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, more particularly oxyethylenated, fatty alkyl ethers, for instance ceteareth-12 and ceteareth 20 (INCI name) , and also mixtures containing them, for instance the mixture sold under the name Emulgade CM by the company Cognis (mixture of cetearyl isononanoate, ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glycerol, ceteareth-12 and cetyl palmitate) ;

- and mixtures thereof.

Mentions may be made of polysorbate 20, such as those sold by the company Croda under the tradename Tween ^TM 20-LQ- (AP) .

The surfactant can be PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate. The weight content can be from 0.001 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 0.05 wt. %, in terms of the total weight of the composition.

Additives

In a particular embodiment, acomposition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound chosen from, hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents and oils different from the nonvolatile oils cited before, and mixtures thereof.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, fillers, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

Accordingly, the composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one filler. Preferably the filler is hydrophobic silica aerogel particle.

It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not thereby affected.

The composition according to the invention may be prepared in a conventional manner.

Galenic form

The composition according to the invention is of two separate phases: oily phase and aqueous phase.

In one embodiment, said aqueous phase is translucent or transparent.

The term “translucent” means which allows light to pass through without making it possible to distinguish alphanumeric characters using 5 mm thick samples.

The term “transparent” means which allows light to pass through, and makes it possible to distinguish alphanumeric characters using 5 mm thick samples.

Method and use

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face.

The biphase composition according to the present invention may be used for any topical application.

In particular, the biphase composition can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, comprising shaking the biphase composition as described above to form an emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.

Examples

The samples prepared in the respective examples and comparative examples described in details below were tested for the stability property according to the specific methods listed below. The test results are shown in Table 1 below.

Shaking Stability Test

Stability property was evaluated according to a method described below:

1) Slightly shake (3-5 times) the product, till the oily and aqueous phases are well mixed.

2) Keep the mixed product standing for 8 hours.

3) Observe the interface of the two phases. If the interface of the two phases is clear, the product passes this test.

4) Repeat above test for 14 times. Ifthe product can pass each of the individual test, the product passes the shaking stability test. If the product can not pass any one time of the shaking stability test, the product does not pass the shaking stability test.

Following examples were prepared. Table 1 is the raw materials information and composition of the examples and comparable examples. Ex. 1 to Ex. 3 were examples of this invention. CE. 1 to CE. 4 were comparative examples. The ingredient information including INCI name, Trade name and the related supplier were listed in Table 1. The weight content of each ingredient was also listed in Table 1.

The detailed procedure of preparing above examples is as below:

1) Mixed the ingredients in aqueous phase in room temperature until homogenous.

2) Mixed the ingredients in oily phase in room temperature until all the polymer were dissolved in the water.

3) Filled the oily phase into the package.

4) Filled the aqueous phase according to the ratio of the aqueous phase and oily phase shown in Table 1.

Table 1

Note: “QS” means that the remaining weight content of the composition is supplemented by water.

Table 2 shows the results of the stability of compositions of Ex. 1 to Ex. 3 and CE. 1 to CE. 4.

Table 2

Table 2 shows compositions of Ex. 1 to Ex. 3 passed the stability and has a clear interface between the two phases and the comparative examples didn’t pass the shaking stability test.

Claims

A composition for caring for the keratin materials, comprising at least two visually distinguishable phases, and comprising:

a) at least an aqueous phase, comprising hyaluronic acid salts of low molecular weight (LMW) ; and

b) at least an oily phase, comprising a surfactant and an oil for which the required HLB is no more than 13,

wherein the surfactant is oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters.
Composition of claim 1, wherein the molecular weight (MW) of the hyaluronic acid salts is less than or equal to 60000 Daltons, preferably from 15,000 Daltons to 50,000 Daltons, more preferably from 20000 Daltons to 50000 Daltons.
Composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the hyaluronic acid salt is sodium hyaluronate.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the weight content of the hyaluronic acid salts is from 0.0001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 1 wt. %, in terms of the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein the oil is chosen from one or more within: isononyl isononanoate, squalene and caprylic/capric triglyceride.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the weight content of the oil is from 0.0001 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, in terms of the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the surfactant is non-ionic surfactant, preferably chosen from one or more within the group of (C1-20) alkylphenols, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide polysorbate type surfactants, alkyl (poly) glycoside type surfactant.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the surfactant is oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol, more preferably PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or mixtures thereof.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the weight content of the surfactant is from 0.001 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, preferably from 0.001 wt. %to 0.05 wt. %, in terms of the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein the required HLB for the oil is from 5 to 13.
Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, further comprising a water-miscible polyol, especially the polyol having 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
A non-therapeutic method for caring for a keratin material, especially the skin and/or the lips, comprising a step of applying a composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 12 on the keratin material.