WO2014207259A2

WO2014207259A2 - Two-phase composition comprising magnesium acetate

Info

Publication number: WO2014207259A2
Application number: PCT/EP2014/063867
Authority: WO
Inventors: Romain FANFAN; Geoffroy Remaut
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2013-06-28
Filing date: 2014-06-30
Publication date: 2014-12-31
Also published as: CN105473184A; EP3013426A2; WO2014207259A3; JP2016523279A; FR3007638A1; FR3007638B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a two-phase composition for topical application, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, and magnesium acetate, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase preferably ranging from 10/90 to 90/10. The presence of magnesium acetate makes it possible to obtain good phase separation of the two phases after shaking, and to avoid the formation of foam in the oily phase during shaking. The invention also relates to use of this composition in the cosmetic field, especially for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, or for haircare.

Description

Two-phase composition comprising magnesium acetate

The present invention relates to a composition for topical application, consisting of two separate phases, an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which emulsify readily by shaking and which undergo rapid phase separation after the shaking is stopped. The present invention also relates to the use of the said composition in cosmetics or dermatology, and especially for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, both bodily and facial skin, and in particular the lips and/or the eyes, and/or for haircare.

Compositions of this type consisting of two separate phases, especially an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate and not emulsified together at rest, are generally referred to as "two-phase compositions". They differ from emulsions in that when at rest, the two phases are separate instead of being emulsified one in the other. Thus, the two phases are separated at rest by a single interface, whereas, in emulsions, one of the phases is dispersed in the other in the form of a multitude of droplets, and the interfaces are therefore multiple, these interfaces generally being stabilized with emulsifying surfactants and/or emulsifying polymers. The use of two-phase compositions necessitates prior shaking in order to form an extemporaneous emulsion. This emulsion must be of sufficient quality and stability to enable homogeneous application of the two phases, but such that when at rest, the two phases become rapidly separated and regain their initial state, this phenomenon being more commonly known as "phase separation".

Two-phase compositions have already been described, for example in documents EP 0 370 856 and EP 0 603 080, especially for removing eye makeup.

Rapid phase separation (or demixing) of the two phases after their use is one of the desired qualities of two-phase compositions. Specifically, obtaining rapid phase separation is desirable for various reasons, especially since poor separation of the two phases is perceived by users as being unaesthetic. Document EP 0 603 080 describes the use of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium and especially of benzalkonium chloride as a phase- separation agent, for obtaining rapid phase separation. Document EP 1 514 534 also describes a two-phase composition, containing sodium bicarbonate as phase-separation agent. Nevertheless, it is sought to diversify the type of molecules used as phase- separation agent in order to have available more varied compositions. However, it has proven to be difficult to find phase-separation agents that can afford good phase separation without the formation of foam taking place in the oily phase of the two-phase mixture during shaking. This formation of foam is prohibitive to users.

There is thus still a need for a two-phase composition consisting of two separate immiscible phases, which, after shaking and extemporaneous and transient formation of the emulsion, undergoes rapid phase separation into two phases, without formation of foam. Surprisingly, the Applicant has found that the use of magnesium acetate makes it possible to obtain a two-phase composition having the desired qualities, i.e. which separates rapidly into two clear phases after use, without any formation of foam taking place in the oily phase during shaking. Thus, the presence of magnesium acetate makes it possible to obtain good phase separation of the two phases after shaking, while at the same time avoiding the formation of foam in the oily phase during shaking, even with a very low concentration of salt. In addition, this compound has the advantage of being very well tolerated, including when it is applied to the eyes, which are particularly sensitive to compounds that are liable to be aggressive. Magnesium acetate does not have any aggressiveness and can therefore be advantageously used in the field of cosmetics and in particular in a composition for removing makeup from the eyes.

More particularly, a subject of the invention is a two-phase composition for topical application, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, and magnesium acetate.

Since the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, the hair and the scalp.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate. These two phases are separate, i.e. they are visible one on top of the other at rest. The two phases may or may not be coloured.

Magnesium acetate is the magnesium salt (CH₃COO^")₂Mg²⁺. The amount of magnesium acetate may range, for example, from 0.001 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 1 % by weight, better still from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight and even better still from 0.005% to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amount of magnesium acetate is less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is possible to add, in addition to magnesium acetate, another salt, for instance sodium chloride, which has no effect on the phase separation, but which is used as adjuvant in a composition for removing makeup from the eyes in order for the composition to have an osmotic pressure close to that of tears. The amount of salt(s) other than magnesium acetate may range, for example, from 0 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 2% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase ranges from 10/90 to 90/10, preferably from 25/75 to 90/10, even more preferentially from 30/70 to 70/30 and better still from 40/60 to 60/40. Thus, the aqueous phase generally represents from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 25% to 90% by weight, even more preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight and better still from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

This weight ratio is adjusted according to the desired cosmeticity and so that the composition has a freezing point of less than 4°C.

The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.

The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. Water-soluble additives that may especially be mentioned are polyols. The term "polyol" should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerol, glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycol, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose, xylitol, trehalose, xylose, mannose or rhamnose, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) are chosen from glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propanediol, dipropylene glycol and hexylene glycol. More preferentially, the polyol is glycerol.

The polyols may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 60% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 50% by weight, better still from 2% to 30% by weight and even better still from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Water-soluble additives that may also be mentioned include primary alcohols, i.e. an alcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. It is preferably ethanol. This alcohol may be present in an amount that is, for example, less than or equal to 40% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The addition of such an alcohol may especially be suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or the hair.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the aqueous phase comprises at least one aqueous-phase opacifier.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aqueous-phase opacifier" means any additive for opacifying the aqueous phase into which it is added, for example an additive which, when added to a transparent medium, would lead to a translucent to opaque medium.

The transparency of a composition may be measured by its turbidity, and the NTU (nephelometric turbidity units) are the units for measuring the turbidity of a composition. The turbidity measurement may be performed, for example, with a model 21 OOP turbidimeter from the Hach Company, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are performed at room temperature (20°C to 25°C). The composition of the invention has a turbidity generally ranging from 2 to 300 NTU and preferably from 5 to 200 NTU.

For the purposes of the present invention, the composition is said to be transparent when it has a turbidity of less than or equal to 20 NTU. It is said to be translucent when its turbidity is between 20 and 300 NTU. It is said to be opaque when its turbidity is greater than or equal to 300 NTU.

The opacifier(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen, for example, from (Ci-C₆)alkylcelluloses; latices, for instance polymers or copolymers based on styrene or crosslinked copolymers based on acrylic acid or even based on methacrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate; esters of polyols containing at least two carbon atoms, which are optionally oxyethylenated, and of fatty acids; C10-C30 fatty acid alkanolamides and esters of Ci 0-C30 fatty acids and of C10-C30 fatty acid alkanolamides.

The opacifier(s) may be chosen from alkylcelluloses, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms and preferably between 1 and 3 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose.

The alkylcellulose(s) are cellulose alkyl ethers comprising a chain consisting of β- anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction:

RONa + C2H₅CI ^ROC₂H₅ + NaCI, in which R represents a cellulose radical.

Advantageously, the alkylcellulose(s) are chosen from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose. It is a cellulose ethyl ether.

Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words to a content of alkoxy groups of 54.88%.

The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferentially polymers with a degree of substitution with ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44% to 50%.

According to a preferred mode, the alkylcellulose (preferably ethylcellulose) is used in a composition of the invention in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, like a dispersion of latex or pseudolatex type. The techniques for preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

The product sold by the company FMC Biopolymer under the name Aquacoat ECD-30, which consists of a dispersion of ethylcellulose in a proportion of about 26.2% by weight in water and stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol, is most particularly suitable for use as an aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose.

The opacifier(s) may be chosen from latices.

The latices that may be used in the context of the invention may be nonionic or ionic, in particular anionic.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "latices" means colloidal dispersions in an aqueous or organic liquid phase of insoluble polymer particles generally obtained by suspension or emulsion polymerization or copolymerization of monomers according to well-known processes of the prior art.

The aqueous dispersions that may be used according to the invention may originate from the condensation of monomer units, giving, for example, nonionic polymers such as polyesters, polyamides, polyurethanes or polyethers.

Mention may also be made of polystyrenes, such as the product sold under the name Modarez OS-197 by the company Synthron, and which is a polystyrene as a 40% emulsion in water.

When the latex or latices are anionic, they generally contain anionic functional groups that are provided either by polymerization or copolymerization of anionic monomers, via usual processes known to those skilled in the art, or by combination of the anionic free radical derived from the reaction initiator with the monomer(s) under consideration during the initiation of polymerization of the said monomers, or alternatively by juxtaposition of these two synthetic processes, or alternatively by introducing end groups via a chain-transfer reaction in the second process using a reaction initiator. The process using reaction initiators is described in particular in the article by R.M. Fitch Preparation and Characterization of Charge stabilized Polymer Colloids in Polyelectrolytes and their applications, 51 -69 by D. Reider publishing company.

The latices that may be used in the context of the invention may especially result from the polymerization or copolymerization of various monomers such as styrene, butadiene, ethylene, propylene, vinyltoluene, vinyl propionate, vinyl alcohol, acrylonitrile, chloroprene, vinylidene chloride, vinyl acetate, urethanes, isoprene, isobutene, vinyl chloride, and acrylic or methacrylic, vinylacetic, maleic, crotonic or itaconic acid esters or amides, vinyl ether, vinylpyrrolidone or vinylimidazole, used alone or as a mixture with one or more of the following ion-generating monomers: acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic, maleic, crotonic, para-styrenesulfonic, vinylsulfonic, 2-methacryloyloxyethylsulfonic and 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropylsulfonic acids.

The latices may also be obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of the ion- generating monomers mentioned previously.

The latices obtained in accordance with the second abovementioned process result from the use of initiators chosen from redox systems, peroxides, perphosphates, percarbonates, persulfates, peroxidized organic acids, for instance peracetic acid, or the persulfate- bisulfite-iron mixture.

The functional monomers used in the case of a chain-transfer reaction are chosen from organic thioacids, for instance mercaptoacetic acid.

Among the anionic latices that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of the products sold under the following trade names: Primal ASE 95, Primal WL-91 K, Primal TR-934 TK and Primal HA-8 by the company Rohm & Haas and which are acrylic aqueous emulsions comprising between 20% and 50% of solids; Appretan 680 by the company Clariant and which is a 50% dispersion of styrene/acrylic acid copolymer; Acrymul AM 123 R by the company Protex and which is a 45% aqueous dispersion of acrylic copolymer; Lucidene 604 by the company Morton Salt and which is an emulsion of a styrene/acrylic acid copolymer; Syntran 5760 CG by the company Interpolymer Corporation and which is an acrylate/ammonium methacrylate/styrene copolymer in aqueous dispersion; Chemigum Latex 6271 by the company Goodyear and which is a copolymer of carboxylated butadiene and of acrylonitrile.

According to a particular embodiment, the latices that may be used in the context of the invention are styrene/acrylic acid copolymers.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the styrene/acrylic copolymer is in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, i.e. in the form of particles as a stable dispersion in an aqueous medium. The copolymer particles are spherical or virtually spherical particles preferably having a number-average size ranging from 0.1 to 5 μηη. The term "aqueous medium" means herein both a medium containing only water and a medium comprising water and a water-soluble solvent such as a lower alcohol comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a glycol.

The styrene/acrylic copolymer is obtained by polymerization of styrene with at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, an acrylic acid ester and a methacrylic acid ester, the copolymer obtained being optionally crosslinked. In addition, the copolymer may or may not be neutralized with a mineral base such as ammonia or with an organic base.

As styrene/acrylic copolymer dispersions that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include those sold under the name Ropaque OP-96 (aqueous dispersion containing 31 % copolymer neutralized with ammonia), Ropaque OP-3000 (aqueous dispersion containing 37% copolymer) and Acudyne 290 (aqueous dispersion containing 40% copolymer) by the company Rohm & Haas, Lucidene 604 by the company Morton Salt, which is an emulsion of a styrene/acrylic acid copolymer. Mention may also be made of the aqueous mixture of styrene/sodium acrylate copolymer, sodium lauryl sulfate, potassium sorbate and polyethylene glycol (7 OE) tridecyl ether (CTFA name Trideceth-7) sold under the name Opacifier 680® by the company Rohm & Haas; and also the styrene/sodium acrylate copolymer as a 40% aqueous emulsion sold under the name Opulyn 301 Opacifier by the company Rohm & Haas.

The latex or latices may also be chosen from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl acrylate.

Methacrylic acid is preferably present in amounts ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 25% to 70% by weight and even more particularly from 35% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer.

The alkyl acrylate is preferably present in amounts ranging from 15% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 25% to 75% by weight and even more particularly from 40% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer. It is chosen especially from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and butyl acrylate and more particularly ethyl acrylate.

These copolymers are partially or totally crosslinked with at least one standard crosslinking agent. The crosslinking agents are especially polyunsaturated compounds, in particular ethylenically polyunsaturated compounds. These compounds are especially polyalkenyl ethers of sucrose or of polyols, diallyl phthalates, divinylbenzene, allyl (meth)acrylate, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, zinc (meth)acrylate, and castor oil or polyol derivatives manufactured from unsaturated carboxylic acids. As crosslinking agent, use may also be made of unsaturated monomeric compounds comprising a reactive group that is capable of reacting with an unsaturation to form a crosslinked copolymer.

The content of crosslinking agent generally ranges from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 3% by weight and even more particularly from 0.05% to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer.

According to one particularly preferred form, the copolymer of the invention may especially be in the form of a dispersion in water. The number-average size of the copolymer particles in the dispersion is generally between 10 and 500 nm, preferably between 20 and 200 nm and more preferentially from 50 to 150 nm.

These copolymers are described especially in patent application WO 01/76552.

Use will be made more particularly of the crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer in the form of an aqueous 30% dispersion manufactured and sold under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 by the company Lubrizol.

The opacifier(s) may be chosen from esters of polyols containing at least two carbon atoms, which are optionally oxyethylenated, and of fatty acids.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty acid" means a carboxylic acid comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 18 carbon atoms in the longest carbon chain, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl radicals. Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based chain is an alkyl or alkenyl chain, comprising one or more optionally conjugated ethylenic unsaturations, which is optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl radicals.

The polyol(s) preferably comprise between 2 and 16 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 4 carbon atoms, and optionally on average from 2 to 15 mol of ethylene oxide.

The esters of polyols containing at least two carbon atoms, which are optionally oxyethylenated, and of fatty acids may be chosen especially from ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol and polyglyceryl monostearates and distearates, and ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol and polyglyceryl monopalmitates and dipalmitates, and mixtures thereof.

The polyethylene glycol and polyglycerol esters comprise from 2 to 150 and preferably from 2 to 15 ethylene glycol or glycerol groups.

Use is preferably made of ethylene glycol monostearates and distearates, diethylene glycol monostearates and distearates, triethylene glycol monostearates and distearates, ethylene glycol monopalmitates and dipalmitates, or glyceryl monopalmitates and dipalmitates. Use may be made, for example, of the glycol distearate sold under the name Tegin BL 315 by the company Evonik-Goldschmidt. Mention may also be made of the glycol palmitate sold under the name Lanol P Ecailles by the company SEPPIC.

The Cio-C₃₀ fatty acid alkanolamides may be chosen from fatty acid alkanolamides in which the alkanolamine-based part is of C1-C4. It should be noted that the alkanolamine from which the compounds of this family are derived may be monoethanolamines or diethanolamines. Examples of compounds of this family that are suitable for use include, inter alia, stearic acid monoethanolamide, stearic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoisopropanolamide and stearic acid monoethanolamide stearate.

The C10-C30 fatty acid esters of C10-C30 fatty acid alkanolamides are chosen from C10-C30 esters of C10-C30 alkanolamides in which the C10-C30 radicals are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radicals. Examples of such compounds that may be mentioned include distearate stearamide diethanolamide and stearate stearamide monoethanolamide, and more particularly the product sold under the name Cerasynt D by the company ISP.

According to a particular embodiment, the opacifier(s) present in the composition in accordance with the invention are chosen from latices. According to a preferred embodiment, the latex or latices are chosen from styrene-based polymers or copolymers or crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl acrylate such as those defined previously. Even more preferentially, the latex or latices are chosen from styrene- based polymers or copolymers.

The opacifier(s), when they are present in the composition, generally represent from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1 % by weight and better still from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the nature and amount of the opacifier(s) are chosen such that the composition in accordance with the invention is opaque, i.e. such that its turbidity value is greater than or equal to 300 NTU.

According to a preferential embodiment, the opacifier(s) are chosen from styrene-based polymers or copolymers and their concentration ranges from 0.01 % to 5%.

The oily phase generally represents from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 75% by weight, even more preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight and better still from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oily phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more oils, these oils possibly being chosen from hydrocarbon-based, mineral, plant and synthetic oils, or alternatively silicone oils. It may also comprise liposoluble or lipodispersible additives.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms; it may contain ester, ether, amine or amide groups.

As hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

- synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae R¹COOR² and R¹OR² in which R¹ represents a fatty acid residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R² represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2- octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as perhydrosqualene, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, meadowfoam oil and argan oil;

- volatile or non-volatile, linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, and derivatives thereof, such as liquid petroleum jelly and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; C₈-Ci₆ branched alkanes or isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for instance the isoparaffins sold under the trade name Isopar by the company Exxon Chemical or the oils sold under the trade name Permethyl by the company Presperse; and mixtures thereof;

- linear alkanes, especially of plant origin, preferably comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms;

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol.

The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups.

The silicone oil(s) may be volatile or non-volatile. The term "volatile" refers to a compound that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^"3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

Examples of volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone), such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; linear silicones such as heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

Preferably, the volatile silicone oil is chosen from cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane.

Non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes, especially PDMS, and phenyl polymethylsiloxanes such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amount of silicone oil(s) is less than 80% and preferably less than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oil(s) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils. According to a preferential embodiment, the oil(s) are chosen from fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate, fatty alcohol ethers, mineral oils such as liquid petroleum jelly, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and liquid fatty acid triglycerides. Preferably, the oil(s) are chosen from fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and liquid fatty acid triglycerides.

The oils may optionally consist solely of volatile oils.

The two-phase composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more surfactants in one or the other of the phases, especially when it is used as a makeup-removing or cleansing composition, since the presence of a surfactant makes it possible both to obtain good makeup removal for makeup compositions and especially mascaras, and also to be free of a greasy sensation during the makeup removal. However, the composition of the invention may also be free of surfactant, and, if it contains any, the amount of surfactant should be such that the composition remains at rest in the form of two separate phases and not in the form of an emulsion.

When the composition of the invention contains a surfactant, it may be of the anionic, nonionic or amphoteric type, but it is preferably of the nonionic type, and it is preferably present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

The amount of surfactant(s) as active material may range, for example, from 0.001 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 1 % by weight and better still from 0.01 % to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Among the nonionic surfactants, those that are particularly preferred are:

- polyoxyethylenated fatty esters of sorbitol such as the product sold under the name Tween 20 by the company ICI;

- condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide such as those sold under the name Synperonic PE by the company ICI and in particular those referenced L 31 , L 64, F 38, F 88, L 92, P 103, F 108 and F 127;

- alkylpolyglycosides such as those of general formula (I) below:

R-0-(G)_x (I)

in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and x is a value ranging from 1 to 15;

- and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, when the composition contains a surfactant, it contains at least one nonionic surfactant and preferably at least one alkylpolyglycoside.

The alkylpolyglycosides preferably used in the composition according to the present invention are compounds of formula (I) in which R more particularly denotes an alkyl radical comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, and x is a value ranging from 1 to 4 and more particularly from 1 to 3. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside used in the composition of the invention is an alkylpolyglucoside, i.e. a compound of formula (I) in which G denotes glucose and x is a value ranging from 1.2 to 3. Examples of alkylpolyglucosides that may be mentioned include decylglucoside (Alkyl- C9/C1 1 -polyglucoside (1 .4)) for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the names Plantaren 2000 UP and Plantacare 2000 UP by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 1 10 by the company SEPPIC or under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF; lauryl glucoside, for instance the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by the company Henkel; cocoyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP by the company Henkel; and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, which will be in one or other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, for instance fragrances, preserving agents and bactericides, dyes, softeners, buffers, humectants, UV-screening agents (or sunscreens), electrolytes such as sodium chloride as indicated above, or a pH regulator (for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

Preserving agents that may be used include any preserving agent usually used in the fields under consideration, for instance parabens, phenoxyethanol, chlorhexidine gluconate and polyhexamethylene biguanide hydrochloride (CTFA name: Polyaminopropyl biguanide). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains polyhexamethylene biguanide hydrochloride, alone or as a mixture with other preserving agents.

An example of a bactericide that may be used is a glyceryl mono(C₃-C₉)alkyl or (C₃- C₉)alkenyl ether, the manufacture of which is described in the literature, in particular in E. Baer, H.O.L. Fischer - J. Biol. Chem. 140-397-1941. Among these glyceryl mono(C₃- C₉)alkyl or (C₃-C₉)alkenyl ethers, use is preferably made of 3-[(2-ethylhexyl)oxy]-1 ,2- propanediol, 3-[(heptyl)oxy]-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-[(octyl)oxy]-1 ,2-propanediol and 3- [(allyl)oxy]-1 ,2-propanediol. A glyceryl mono(C₃-C₉)alkyl ether that is more particularly preferred according to the present invention is 3-[(2-ethylhexyl)oxy]-1 ,2-propanediol, sold by the company Schulke & Mayr G.m.b.H. under the trade name Sensiva SC 50 (INCI name: Ethylhexylglycerin).

Among the softeners, mention may be made in particular of allantoin and bisabolol, planktons, and certain plant extracts, such as rose extracts and melilot extracts.

The active agent(s) that may be present depend on the final purpose of the composition. As active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, especially when it is a skincare composition, examples that may be mentioned include enzymes (for example lactoperoxidase, lipase, protease, phospholipase, cellulases); flavonoids such as isoflavones; moisturizers such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; antiinflammatory agents; oligomeric proanthocyanidins; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; ohydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids, such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, of fungi, of plants, of yeasts, of bacteria; steroids; antibacterial active agents, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, and in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; and mixtures thereof; and any active agent that is suitable for the final purpose of the composition.

The UV-screening agents may be present in the composition according to the invention especially when it is intended for antisun protection. These screening agents may especially be organic screening agents, and they may be present in an active-material amount ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1 % to 15% by weight and better still 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As examples of UV-A-active and/or UV-B-active organic screening agents, which may be added to the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include derivatives bearing a sulfonic function, such as sulfone or sulfonate derivatives of benzylidenecamphor, benzophenone or phenylbenzimidazole, more particularly benzylidenecamphor derivatives, for instance benzene-1 ,4-bis(3-methylidenecamphor-10- sulfonic acid), (INCI name: Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid) manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX by the company Chimex, and 4'-sulfo-3-benzylidenecamphor (INCI name: Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid) manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL by the company Chimex, 2-[4-(camphormethylidene)phenyl]benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid), sold under the name Eusolex 232 by the company Merck; para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives; salicylic derivatives such as ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan OS by Haarmann and Reimer; dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane sold especially under the trade name Parsol 1789 by the company Hoffmann LaRoche; cinnamic derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold especially under the trade name Parsol MCX by Hoffmann LaRoche; β,β'- diphenylacrylate derivatives such as octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl a-cyano-β,β- diphenylacrylate) sold under the trade name Uvinul N539 by the company BASF; benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF, benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF, benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40 by BASF; benzylidenecamphor derivatives such as 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the trade name Eusolex 6300 by Merck; phenylbenzimidazole derivatives such as benzimidazilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Haarmann and Reimer; triazine derivatives such as anisotriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy and ethylhexyl triazone sold especially under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives such as drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the trade name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie; anthranilic derivatives such as menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Haarmann and Reimer; imidazoline derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

The compositions described above may be conditioned, in a known manner, in a bottle with a single compartment. The user must then shake the bottle before pouring its contents onto a pad of cotton wool. It may also be envisaged for the two phases of the composition to be introduced into two independent compartments of the same bottle, a system being provided for mixing them together at the time of dispensing. Such devices are described, for example, in documents EP-A-497 256 and FR-A-2 697 233.

The composition according to the invention may be used for any topical application, and may especially constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition. It may in particular be used for caring for, cleansing and/or removing makeup from the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, and also as a haircare composition.

A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above, for caring for, removing makeup from and/or cleansing the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, and/or for haircare.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the skin, the lips and/or the eyes. A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic haircare process, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the hair.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is a composition for caring for bodily and/or facial skin.

The examples below of compositions according to the invention are given as illustrations with no limiting nature. The amounts therein are given as weight percentages of starting material, unless otherwise mentioned. The names of the compounds are given as the chemical names or the INCI names.

Examples

Example 1 : The following composition is prepared.

Fatty phase (20%):

Isopropyl palmitate

2-Octyldodecanol

Petroleum jelly

Procedure: cold mixing of the oils Aqueous phase (80%):

Water qs

Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, tetrasodium salt 0.2%

Preserving agent(s) 0.5%

Panthenol 0.005%

Glycerol 0.5%

Magnesium acetate tetra hydrate 0.01 %

Citric acid monohydrate 0.005%

Procedure: The dissolution and dispersion of the starting materials of the aqueous phase takes place entirely without heating.

The two-phase composition thus obtained, consisting of two separate immiscible phases, after shaking and extemporaneous and transient formation of an emulsion, undergoes rapid phase separation into two phases, without formation of foam.

Example 2:

The following composition is prepared. Fatty phase (20%):

Isopropyl palmitate 20%

2-Octyldodecanol 40%

Dicaprylyl ether 20%

Caprylic/capric acid triglycerides (60/40) 10%

Petroleum jelly 10%

Procedure: cold mixing of the oils Aqueous phase (80%):

Water qs

Glycerol 12.5%

Preserving agent(s) 0.875%

Ethanol 5%

Polystyrene }

(Modarez OS-197 from Synthron) 0.2% B

Water 1 % 1

Magnesium acetate tetrahydrate 0.01 %J C

Citric acid pH modifier

Procedure: The process is performed entirely without heating, with dissolution of the starting materials of A and then dispersion of B in A, followed by addition of the dilute magnesium acetate, before pH adjustment.

Example 3: two-phase mixture without opacifier

Observations of the interface after shaking: Sharp interface Observations on foam: No residual foam after shaking

Observations on demixing speed: Rapid demixing (a few minutes)

Comparative Examples 4: two-phase mixtures with opacifier

Observations on demixing speed: Rapid demixing (a few minutes)

Composition C (comparative)

Sodium styrene/acrylates copolymer (and) sodium 0.16 lauryl sulfate

(Opulyn 301 opacifier from Rohm & Haas)

Denat. alcohol 4

Preserving agent(s) 0.7

Isopropyl palmitate 5.9998

Glycerol 10

Caprylic/capric triglyceride 4

Citric acid 0.0024

Dye(s) 0.0002

Aqua qs 100 Sodium citrate 0.008

(Trisodium citrate dihydrate)

Octyldodecanol 10

When the magnesium acetate is replaced with trisodium citrate, a composition is obtained comprising a residual foam in the fatty phase and having a lower demixing speed and a non-planar interface.

When the magnesium acetate is replaced with sodium bicarbonate, a composition is obtained comprising a fine residual foam in the fatty phase and having a similar demixing speed and a non-planar interface.

Example 5: two-phase mixture with opacifier Fatty phase (20%):

Isopropyl palmitate 30%

2-Octyldodecanol 50%

Caprylic/capric acid triglycerides (60/40) 20% Procedure: cold mixing of the oils

Aqueous phase (80%):

Water qs

Glycerol 12.5%

Preserving agent(s) 0.875%

Ethanol 5%

Ethylcellulose }

(Aquacoat ECD30 from FMC Corporation) 0.1 % B

Water 1 %

Magnesium acetate tetrahydrate 0.01 %

Citric acid monohydrate 0.0024

Claims

1 . Two-phase composition for topical application, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, and magnesium acetate.

2. Composition according to Claim 1 , in which the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase ranges from 10/90 to 90/10, preferably from 25/75 to 90/10, even more preferentially from 30/70 to 70/30 and better still from 40/60 to 60/40.

3. Composition according to either of Claims 1 and 2, in which the amount of magnesium acetate ranges from 0.001 % to 5% by weight and is preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the oily phase comprises one or more oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based, mineral, plant and synthetic oils, or alternatively silicone oils.

5. Composition according to Claim 4, in which the oil(s) are chosen from hydrocarbon- based oils.

6. Composition according to Claim 5, in which the oil(s) are chosen from fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate, fatty alcohol ethers, mineral oils such as liquid petroleum jelly, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and liquid fatty acid triglycerides, preferably fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and liquid fatty acid triglycerides.

7. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, comprising at least one surfactant chosen from nonionic surfactants.

8. Composition according to Claim 7, in which the surfactant(s) are present in an amount ranging from 0.001 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 1 % by weight and better still from 0.01 % to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, comprising at least one aqueous- phase opacifier.

10. Composition according to Claim 9, in which the opacifier(s) are chosen from (d- C₆)alkylcelluloses; latices, for instance polymers or copolymers based on styrene or crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and Ci-C₄ alkyl acrylate; esters of polyols containing at least two carbon atoms, which are optionally oxyethylenated, and of fatty acids; Ci₀-C₃o fatty acid alkanolamides and esters of Ci₀-C₃o fatty acids and of Ci₀-C₃o fatty acid alkanolamides.

1 1. Composition according to Claim 10, in which the opacifier(s) are chosen from latices, preferably from styrene-based polymers or copolymers and crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of C C₄ alkyl acrylate.

12. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, in which the opacifier(s) are chosen from styrene-based polymers or copolymers.

13. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, in which the opacifier(s) represent from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1 % by weight and better still from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

14. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, for caring for, removing makeup from and/or cleansing the skin, the lips and/or the eyes and/or for haircare, preferably for skincare.

15. Cosmetic process for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, preferably for skincare, in which a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13 is applied to the skin, the lips and/or the eyes.