WO2017070940A1

WO2017070940A1 - COMPOSITION HAVING A α-CRYSTALLINE PHASE

Info

Publication number: WO2017070940A1
Application number: PCT/CN2015/093375
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ji SONG; Xiaomin WENG
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2015-10-30
Filing date: 2015-10-30
Publication date: 2017-05-04
Also published as: CN108697589A; CN108697589B

Abstract

A composition having an a-crystalline phase, comprising at least one continuous aqueous phase and at least one dispersed oily phase, and comprising: (a) at least one oil; (b) less than or equal to 0.8% by weight of at least one solid fatty alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (c) at least one anionic surfactant of fatty acid amide sulfonate salts, wherein the weight ratio of b) /c) is from 5 to 40, and the weight ratio of a)/b) is from 0.5 to 5.

Description

Composition having a α-crystalline phase

The present invention relates to a composition with a α-crystalline phase. It relates more particularly to a composition having a α-crystalline phase formed by oily globules provided with a lamellar crystal coating and dispersed in an aqueous phase. The invention also relates to a process for the preparation of such a composition and to its application in the treatment of keratin materials and in particular skin.

PRIOR ART

In the cosmetic art it is known to formulate compositions with lamellar structures, such as α-gel or liquid crystal structures, for improving the stability of cosmetic compositions. Moreover, thanks to the lamellar structure, i.e., repeating bilayer structures, the cosmetic compositions are capable of providing to the skin a good retention of water, and therefore a long-lasting moistness. Various types of surfactants were used for stabilizing the α-gel structure and providing to the skin a water retention effect.

For example, US 2014/0100276 teaches an emulsion composition which allows water to remain in the skin for a long period of time, wherein said emulsion present a lamellar structure, which is, in particular in form of α-gel.

Mentions can also be made to the known products on the market, using combinations of surfactants to formulate creams with liquid crystal structure.

On the other hand, the appearance of a cosmetic product is an important aspect. Consumers are now more and more in favour of cosmetic compositions, especially compositions caring for the skin, with a translucent or transparent appearance, which will even enhance the perspective of hydration and moisturizing effect of a product, without a feeling of heaviness or greasiness.

However, among all the known arts, none of them disclosed a transparent or translucent composition with α-crystalline phase which enables an improved fresh hydration feeling to the skin.

Translucency or transparency of compositions comprising a lamellar crystal structure such as α-crystalline phase, is not obtained easily. More particularly, it is difficult to prepare a persistent translucent or transparent composition, especially with the aim of providing a cosmetic composition, more particularly of toner composition.

Also it is difficult to solve these technical problems with the aim of preparing a composition for treating keratin materials, especially toner compositions which is stable under high temperatures, such as 45 ℃.

There thus exists a need to formulate a composition for caring for /making up keratin materials with a good cosmetic properties such as fresh hydration feeling, and meanwhile have a translucent or transparent appearance.

Furthermore, there exists a need for formulating a composition as described above, with sufficient stability over time, and in particular under high temperatures, such as 45 ℃.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The applicant found that such a need can be met by formulating a composition having an α-crystalline phase, with a combination of oil (s) , specific solid fatty alcohol (s) , and specific anionic surfactant (s) .

More specifically, the invention relates to a composition having an α-crystalline phase, comprising at least one continuous aqueous phase and at least one dispersed oily phase, and comprising:

(a) at least one oil；

(b) less than or equal to 0.8％by weight of at least one solid fatty alcohol containing from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition； and

(c) at least one anionic surfactant of fatty acid amide sulfonate salts,

wherein the weight ratio of b) /c) is from 5 to 40,

and the weight ratio of a) /b) is from 0.5 to 5.

The present invention also relates to a process for caring for/making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

According to the invention, “transparent or translucent compositions” is understood to mean compositions exhibiting a turbidity, measured according to the method described below, of less than or equal to 5000 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units) and preferably of less than or equal to 3000 NTU.

The turbidity is measured using a model 2100N turbidimeter from Hach at ambient temperature (20 to 25℃. ) , wherein the sample cells for turbidity testing are made of quartz glass with a reference number 2084900., wherein the sample cells for turbidity testing are made of quartz glass.

By “keratin materials” we intend to mean human keratin materials and more specifically skin.

By “cosmetic properties” we intend to mean a fresh, hydration feeling on the skin after application of the composition of the invention.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follows.

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to ... " .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

(a) oil

According to the present invention, the composition comprises at least one oil.

The term “oil” refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm²/min, inclusive.

The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm²/min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15g of oil or a mixture of oils to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer, 7cm in diameter, placed on a scale located in a large 0.3m³ chamber temperature-controlled at a temperature of 25℃, and humidity-controlled with a relative humidity of 50％. The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without stirring, by providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) positioned vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades directed toward the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the base of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per surface area unit (cm²) and per time unit (minute) .

The oils that are suitable for the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.

According to the invention, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.

The term "fluorine oil" refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises hydrocarbon oil (s) . Specifically, the volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes (also called isoparaffins or isoalkanes) , such as isododecane (also called 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names

or

It is also possible to cite, as a hydrocarbon volatile oil, linear C₉-C₁₇ alkanes, such as dodecane (C₁₂) and tetradecane (C₁₄) , sold respectively under the names

12-97 and

14-97 (Sasol) , and, as alkanes obtained according to the method described in the international application WO 2007/068371 A1, such as the undecane (C₁₁) and tridecane (C₁₃) mixture sold under the name

UT (Cognis) .

The non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

It is possible to cite, as a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil:

-hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,

-hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, for instance phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203) , diesters such as diisopropyl sebacate, triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C₄ to C₃₆, and in particular from C₁₈ to C₃₆, it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated； these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, barrage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cotton seed oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's Wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, nut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, winter squash oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soya oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the STEARINERIES DUBOIS company or those sold under the names MIGLYOL

and

by the DYNAMIT NOBEL company,

-linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane；

-synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms；

-synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula R₁COOR₂, in which R₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R₁ et R₂ is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may in particular be selected from fatty acid and alcohol esters, for instance: cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactacte, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, or octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate；

-polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,

-esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan

and Lusplan

sold by the NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL company and described in the application US 2004-175338,

-copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof, such as copolymers of dilinoleyl diol dimers/dilinoleic dimers and esters thereof, for instance Plandool-G,

-copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or the copolymer of dilinoleic acid/butanediol,

-fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,

-C₁₂-C₂₂, higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and,

-dialkyl carbonates of the following formula (I) :

wherein R₁ and R₂, identical or different, represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, according to an embodiment, in formula (I) , R₁ and R₂, which are identical, represents a linear hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

More preferably, the dialkyl carbonate is dicaprylyl carbonate.

In one embodiment, said carbonate is caprylyl carbonate. the two alkyl chains possibly being identical such as the dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL

by COGNIS.

-oils of higher molar mass having in particular a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10, 000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 650 to approximately 10, 000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 750 to approximately 7500 g/mol, and more particularly ranging from approximately 1000 to approximately 5000 g/mol. As oils of higher molar mass that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of the oils selected from:

●lipophilic polymers,

●linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70,

●hydroxylated esters,

●aromatic esters,

●esters of C₂₄-C₂₈ branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols,

●oils of plant origin,

●and mixtures thereof； and

-mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises, as oil, dicaprylyl carbonate.

According to an embodiment, the at least one oil (a) is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5％, and preferably from 0.05 to 1％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(b) Solid fatty alcohol

The composition of the present invention comprises less than or equal to 0.8％by weight of at least one solid fatty alcohol.

The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 34 or even from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The “solid fatty alcohols” are solid at room temperature (25℃) and at atmospheric pressure (780 mmHg or 1 atm. ) ； they are water-insoluble, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1％by mass and preferably less than 0.5％by weight.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R—OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols used in the present invention are selected from fatty alcohols having from 14 to 30 carbon atoms.

Mentions may be made of, as solid fatty alcohols, myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol) , cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) , palmitoleyl alcohol (cis-9-hexadecen-1-ol) , stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol) , arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol) , behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) , erucyl alcohol (cis-13-docosen-1-ol) , lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol) , ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol) , myricyl alcohol, or melissyl alcohol (1-triacontanol) .

More preferably, according to the present invention, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from alcohols having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) , stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol) , arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol) , behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) , or a mixture thereof.

1. More particularly, the solid fatty alcohol are selected from cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) , stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol) , arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol) , behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) , or a mixture thereof.

The fatty alcohols may be mixtures, which means, for example, that several species may coexist in a commercial product, especially of different chain lengths, in the form of a mixture.

Mentions of such mixture of fatty alcohols may be made of cetearyl alcohol sold under the name Lanette O Or by BASF, wherein containing predominantly a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

According to one embodiment, the solid fatty alcohol (b) is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 0.8％, preferably from 0.05 to 0.8％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(c) Anionic surfactant

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant of fatty acid amide sulfonate salt.

In one embodiment, said anionic surfactant is at least one amino acid surfactant of the following formula (II) :

wherein:

R₁ is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 7 to 17 carbon atoms atoms,

R₂ is H or a methyl,

R₃ is H, COO-M⁺, CH₂COO-M or COOH,

n is 0 to 2,

X is COO-or SO₃ ^- and

M is independent from each other H, sodium or potassium and a sorbitan surfactant.

Such anionic surfactants are those described in EP2335681.

Suitably amino acid surfactant types are taurate, glutamate, alanin or alaninate, sarcosinate, aspartate surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred are taurate, glutamate and sarcosinate surfactants and mixtures thereof. More preferred are taurates and glutamates and most preferred is glutamate type surfactants.

Suitable taurate surfactants are according to the general formula (III)

wherein

R₁ is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 7 to 17 carbon atoms, and more preferably 9 to 13 carbon atoms,

R₂ is H or methyl,

and M is H, sodium or potassium.

Suitable examples are potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl palmitoyl taurate, and sodium methyl stearoyl taurate and mixtures thereof. Preferred are potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate and sodium methyl lauroyl taurate and mixtures thereof. More preferred are potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate and sodium methyl lauroyl taurate and mixtures thereof.

It should be noted that compositions of the present invention can also comprise mixture of several type of amino acid surfactants such as mixture of glutamate and taurate surfactants, or mixture of taurate, glutamate and sarcosinate surfactants etc.

With the term amino acid surfactant especially those surfactants are meant derived from taurate, glucamate, alanin or alaninate, sarcosinate and aspartate.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the at least one anionic surfactant is a member selected from the group consisting of an isethionate, a taurate, a sarcosinate, a sulfosuccinate, a sulfoacetate, a glycinate, a glutamate and a carboxylate, wherein the at least one anionic surfactant has an alkyl chain from C₈ to C₂₀, and a solubilizing counter cation selected from sodium, potassium and ammonium.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the at least one anionic surfactant is a taurate, said taurate having an alkyl chain from C₈ to C₂₀, and a solubilizing counter cation selected from sodium, potassium and ammonium.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the at least one anionic surfactant is a member selected from the consisting of sodium lauryl methyl isethionate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate sodium N-myristoyl-N-methyltaurate, sodium coconut oil fatty acid methyltaurate, and sodium laurylmethyltaurate.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactants is sodium methyl stearoyl taurate.

According to an embodiment, the anionic surfactant (c) is present in an amount ranging from 0.005 to 5％by weight, and preferably from 0.01 to 0.5％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purpose of the invention, the weight ratio of the at least one solid fatty alcohol (b) and at least one anionic surfactant (c) ranges from 5 to 40, preferably from 6 to 30, and more preferably from 10 to 20.

For the purpose of the invention, the weight ratio of at least one oil (a) and at least one solid fatty alcohol (b) ranges from 0.5 to 5, preferably from 0.5 to 4, and more preferably from 0.5 to 3.

The inventors found that, thanks to the specific weight ratio as described above, the composition of the present invention possesses a desired translucent appearance.

Moreover, the specific weight ratio ensures the translucent or transparent composition of the present invention be stable over time.

According to an embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

(a) from 0.01 to 5％by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1％by weight of at least one oil (a) relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein said oil (a) is selected from dialkyl carbonates,

(b) from 0.01 to 0.8％, preferably from 0.05 to 0.8％by weight of at least one fatty alcohol (b) relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein said fatty alcohol (b) is a linear or branched saturated alcohols having from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, or any mixture thereof,

(c) from 0.005 to 5％, and preferably from 0.01 to 0.5％by weight of at least one surfactant (c) relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein said surfactant (c) is a taurate surfactant according to the general formula (III)

wherein

R₁ is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 7 to 17 carbon atoms, and more preferably 9 to 13 C atoms,

R₂ is H or methyl, and

M is H, sodium or potassium.

Aqueous phase

The composition of the invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase.

According to an embodiment, the aqueous phase includes water, as the case may be, in a mixture with water-soluble additives and/or solvents.

The aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents miscible with water (at room temperature -25℃) such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol； polyols notably having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol； glycol ethers (notably having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tri-propylene glycol (C₁-C₄) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or tri-ethylene glycol (C₁-C₄) alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.

According to an embodiment, the aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises a polyol notably glycerol, caprylylglycol or propylene glycol, and a monoalcohol, notably ethanol.

The amount of aqueous phase may range, for example, from 0.1％to 99.9％by weight, preferably from 0.5％to 99％by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to an embodiment, the amount of water in the compositions according to the invention ranges from 0.1％to 90％by weight, preferably from 1％to 80％by weight, more preferably from 10％to 75％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the compositions of the invention comprise more than 50％by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may also contain other additives such as water-soluble active ingredients, preservatives, salts, gelling agents, additional fillers, additional water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, water-soluble dyes, and so on.

Examples of gelling agents are:

○ modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) and Pemulen (INCI name: Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) names by Goodrich；

○ polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name “Hostacerin AMPS” (INCI name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) ； or crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS which are provided in the form of an emulsion, such as those sold under the name of Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) , under the name of Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC or under the name of Simulgel EG (CTFA name: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer and Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80) ；

○acrylate/acrylonitrile copolymers, such as Hypan SS201, sold by Kingston；

○polysaccharide biopolymers, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates or modified or unmodified celluloses；

○inorganic compounds, such as smectites or modified or unmodified hectorites, such as the Bentone products sold by Rheox, the Laponite products sold by Southern Clay Products or the product Veegum HS sold by R.T. Vanderbilt；

○and their mixtures.

Use is preferably made, as hydrophilic gelling agent, of optionally crosslinked polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid.

The gelling agent can be present in the composition in a content (in dry material) ranging for example from 0.05％to 5％by weight, preferably from 0.1％to 3％by weight and better still from 0.15％to 2％by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Oily phase

A composition according to this invention comprises at least one dispersed oily phase.

According to an embodiment, the oily phase has a refractive index from 1, 3 to 1.5, preferably from 1.4 to 1.45.

It has to be noted that the refractive index mentioned above is a final refractive index of the oily phase. There is no limitation on the refractive index of each oil in the oily phase. The oils chosen to be present in the oily phase of the current invention shall reach the condition that the refractive index of the oil phase is from 1, 3 to 1.5, preferably from 1.4 to 1.45.

α-crystalline phase

The composition of the present invention comprises a α-crystalline phase, or also called as α-gel.

α-crystalline phase, or α-gel, has a hydrate-type crystal structure, which is a lamellar structure. Such structure enables the composition of the present invention a satisfied hydration effect to the keratin materials, in particular the skin.

The invention makes it possible to have available particularly stable emulsions having small droplets of oily phase coated with a monolamellar layer and/or with an oligolamellar layer which is extremely thin.

Oligolamellar layer is understood to mean a layer comprising from 2 to 5 lipid lamellar (lipid lamellar is understood to mean a membrane of lipid bilayer type as described in the field of liposomes, for example) .

Turbidity of the composition

The composition of the invention is transparent or translucent.

The term “transparent or translucent” according to the present invention is understood to mean compositions exhibiting a turbidity, measured according to the method described below, of less than 5000 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units) and preferably of less than 3000 NTU.

Transparency/translucency is measured by the following protocol:

The turbidity is measured using a model 2100N turbidimeter from Hach at ambient temperature (20 to 25℃) , wherein the sample cells for turbidity testing are made of quartz glass with a reference number 2084900.

Process for preparing the composition of the present invention

According to one embodiment the composition of the present invention is prepared as follows:

-mixing the aqueous phase containing water and (c) at least one anionic surfactant optionally containing active agents；

-mixing (a) at least one oil and (b) at least one solid fatty alcohol；

-heating separately the mixtures obtained in each of the above steps up to 75-80 ℃ and maintain the temperature with stirring at 250-500 rev /min until homogeneous；

-mixing the two mixtures under stirring；

-homogenizing the mixture obtained in the previous step at 1500～5000 rpm for 10 minutes；

-cooling down to room temperature while stirring.

Lab Homogenization is preferably performed with a high shear mixer, such as those manufactured by Silverson.

Stirring is preferably performed by VMI mixers.

The composition of the present invention is advantageously used to prepare a translucent composition, preferably a cosmetic composition.

Advantageously, the composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and may be in form of lotion, toner, cream, or spray. In particular, the composition of the present invention is a cosmetic toner or lotions for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

More particularly, the composition of the present invention is a cosmetic toner for moisturizing the skin.

The composition of the present invention is stable over time.

“Stable over time” is understood to mean compositions of the present invention which, after storage at all temperatures between 4℃ and 45℃ for 2 months, do not exhibit any macroscopic change in colour, smell or viscosity, any variation in pH or any variation in microscopic appearance.

Method and use

The composition of the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process, such as a cosmetic process or method, for making up/caring for the keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face and the lips, by being applied to the skin, especially the face.

The present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention, for making up/caring for the skin, especially for the face.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the said keratin material, of at least one composition of the invention, wherein the keratin material is preferably skin, in particular face.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for hydrating of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined according to the invention.

The examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the compositions and processes according to this invention, but are not in any way a limitation of the scope of the invention.

EXAMPLES

Example 1 Preparation of Invention and Comparative formulas

Formulas according to the invention and outside of the invention (comparative) were prepared according to the concentration given in table 1 (in ％by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) .

Table 1: Invention formula 1, 2, and Comparative formula 1, 2, 3

The Invention and Comparative formulas were prepared following the steps of:

1. melting phase D and phase E, respectively, in a melter at the temperature of 75-80 ℃ with stirring at 500～1000 rpm /min until a homogeneous phase；

2. adding phase E to phase D, using mixer at 2000-2500 rpm (silverson) for 10 minutes to obtain a homogenous mixture；

3. stirring the mixture using VMI apparatus at a speed of 500 rpm /min, whiling gradually cooling down the mixture to room temperature at a speed of 1 ℃ /minute；

4. melting phase A in a melter at the temperature of 90 ℃ with stirring at 500～1000 rpm /min until a homogeneous phase, and cooling down phase A to 60 ℃；

5. adding phase B to phase A, while stirring using VMI at 800～1000 rpm /min for 10 minutes, leaving the mixture 1 hour for dispersion；

6. diluting phase C with water, and adding the diluted phase C to the mixture obtained above；

7. adding the mixture obtained in step 3 to the mixture obtained in step 6, stirring at 500 rpm/min until homogeneous.

Example 2: Evaluation of the Invention and Comparative formulas

The turbidity, stability and cosmetic property of the Invention and Comparative formulas were evaluated.

The turbidity of the formulas were evaluated using a model 2100N turbidimeter from Hach at ambient temperature (20 to 25℃. ) , wherein the sample cells for turbidity testing are made of quartz glass with a reference number 2084900.

The stability of the formulas were evaluated by leaving the formulas at 45 ℃ for 2 months, and observing the formulas using microscope under polarized light.

The Invention and Comparative formulas were given to 6 consumers for application on the facial skin, respectively, and the cosmetic property such as fresh and hydration feeling on the skin were evaluated.

The results of the evaluation are as follow:

The invention formulas 1 and 2 are stable over 2 months under the temperature of 45 ℃, with no change both in terms of macro-or micro-appearance. Whereas the comparative formula 3 is not stable after 1 month.

According to the results above, it is obvious that the invention formulas both have pleasant translucent appearances, and such appearances are stable over 2 months, under 45 ℃. Whereas the Comparative formulas 1, 2 and 3 are opaque.

Moreover, comparing to the comparative formulas 1 to 3, the invention formulas 1 and 2 show an improvement in terms of cosmetic properties, i.e., a fresh and hydration feeling after application.

Claims

A composition having an α-crystalline phase, comprising at least one continuous aqueous phase and at least one dispersed oily phase, and comprising:

(a) at least one oil；

(b) less than or equal to 0.8％by weight of at least one solid fatty alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition； and

(c) at least one anionic surfactant of fatty acid amide sulfonate salts,

wherein the weight ratio of b) /c) is from 5 to 40,

and the weight ratio of a) /b) is from 0.5 to 5.
The composition of claim 1, wherein the oil (a) is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils, preferably non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, more preferably selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, linear or branched non-volatile hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, oils of formula R₁COOR₂, in which R₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof, copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids, dialkyl carbonates, oils of higher molar mass having in particular a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10, 000 g/mol, or a mixture thereof.
The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil (a) is a dialkyl carbonate of following formula (I) :

wherein R₁ and R₂, identical or different, represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms；

preferably in formula (I) , R₁ and R₂, which are identical, represents a linear hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms；

more preferably, the dialkyl carbonate is dicaprylyl carbonate.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5％, and preferably from 0.05 to 1％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein said solid fatty alcohol (b) is selected from the fatty alcohol having from 14 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms； more preferably selected from the group consisting of myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol) , cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) , palmitoleyl alcohol (cis-9-hexadecen-1-ol) , stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol) , arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol) , behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) , erucyl alcohol (cis-13-docosen-1-ol) , or a mixture thereof； more preferably selected from cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) , stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol) , arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol) , behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) , or a mixture thereof.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the solid fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 0.8％, preferably from 0.05 to 0.8％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein said surfactant (c) is a amino acid surfactant of formula (II) :

wherein:

R₁ is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 7 to 17 carbon atoms atoms,

R₂ is H or a methyl,

R₃ is H, COO-M⁺, CH₂COO-M or COOH,

n is 0 to 2,

X is COO-or SO₃ ^-and

M is independent from each other H, sodium or potassium and a sorbitan surfactant；

more preferably, the anionic surfactant is a taurate surfactant of formula (III)

wherein

R₁ is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 7 to 17 carbon atoms, and more preferably 9 to 13 carbon atoms,

R₂ is H or methyl,

and M is H, sodium or potassium.
The composition of claim 7, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl palmitoyl taurate, and sodium methyl stearoyl taurate and mixtures thereof. Preferred are potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate and sodium methyl lauroyl taurate and mixtures thereof. More preferred are potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate and sodium methyl lauroyl taurate and mixtures thereof； preferably sodium methyl stearoyl taurate.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the anionic surfactant (c) is present in an amount ranging from 0.005 to 5％, and preferably from 0.01 to 0.5％by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of claim 1, comprising:

(a) from 0.01 to 5％by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1％by weight of at least one oil (a) relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein said oil (a) is selected from dialkyl carbonates, ,

(b) from 0.01 to 0.8％, preferably from 0.05 to 0.8％by weight of at least one fatty alcohol (b) relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein said fatty alcohol (b) is a linear or branched saturated alcohols having from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, or any mixture thereof,

(c) from 0.005 to 5％, and preferably from 0.01 to 0.5％by weight of at least one surfactant (c) relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein said surfactant (c) is a taurate surfactant according to the general formula (III)

wherein

R₁ is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 7 to 17 carbon atoms, and more preferably 9 to 13 C atoms,

R₂ is H or methyl, and

M is H, sodium or potassium.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein the weight ratio of the solid fatty alcohol (b) and the anionic surfactant (c) ranges from 6 to 30, and more preferably from 10 to 20.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, wherein the weight ratio of the oil (a) and the solid fatty alcohol (b) ranges from 0.5 to 4, preferably from 0.5 to 3.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 12, wherein the oily phase has a refractive index from 1.3 to 1.5, preferably from 1.4 to 1.45.
The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 13 has a turbidity of less than or equal to 5000 NTU, and preferably less than or equal to 3000 NTU.
A cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the said keratin material, of at least one composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 14, wherein the keratin material is preferably skin, in particular face.