ZA200605884B - Taurate formulated pigmented cosmetic composition exhibiting radiance with soft focus - Google Patents
Taurate formulated pigmented cosmetic composition exhibiting radiance with soft focus Download PDFInfo
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- ZA200605884B ZA200605884B ZA200605884A ZA200605884A ZA200605884B ZA 200605884 B ZA200605884 B ZA 200605884B ZA 200605884 A ZA200605884 A ZA 200605884A ZA 200605884 A ZA200605884 A ZA 200605884A ZA 200605884 B ZA200605884 B ZA 200605884B
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims description 52
- 229940104261 taurate Drugs 0.000 title claims description 14
- XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N taurine Chemical compound NCCS(O)(=O)=O XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims description 13
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 11
- 230000001747 exhibiting effect Effects 0.000 title description 2
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- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- 230000005540 biological transmission Effects 0.000 claims description 17
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- 239000001818 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010989 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940101027 polysorbate 40 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940113124 polysorbate 60 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920002223 polystyrene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011164 primary particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229910052709 silver Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000004332 silver Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 1
- RYYKJJJTJZKILX-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium octadecanoate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O RYYKJJJTJZKILX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000007858 starting material Substances 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012876 topography Methods 0.000 description 1
- 231100000331 toxic Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000002588 toxic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910021654 trace metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O triethanolammonium Chemical compound OCC[NH+](CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 1
- 239000011701 zinc Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B82—NANOTECHNOLOGY
- B82Y—SPECIFIC USES OR APPLICATIONS OF NANOSTRUCTURES; MEASUREMENT OR ANALYSIS OF NANOSTRUCTURES; MANUFACTURE OR TREATMENT OF NANOSTRUCTURES
- B82Y5/00—Nanobiotechnology or nanomedicine, e.g. protein engineering or drug delivery
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/28—Zirconium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
- A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
- A61K2800/413—Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm
Description
i
TAURATE FORMULATED PIGMENTED COSMETIC COMPOSITION EXHIBITING
RADIANCE WITH SOFT FOCUS
The invention relates to compositions for improving the appearance of skin, particularly to provide good coverage over imperfections such as pores and uneven skin tone, while retaining a natural gkin appearance.
A matte effect is desired for users of color cosmetics. The matte finish overcomes the shiny effect engendered by greasy skin, particularly under hot and humid conditions. Absorbent fillers such as talc, silica, kaolin and other inorganic particulates have been used to achieve the effect by their optical properties.
Imperfect skin can be hidden in two ways through manipulation of light transmission. In the first, components of the color cosmetic may simply reflect light back toward the source. 2n alternative approach is referred to as achieving a soft focus effect. Here the incoming light is distorted by scattering (lensing). Components of the color cosmetic in this mechanism operate as lenses to bend and twist light into a variety of directions.
While it is desirable to hide imperfect skin through a matte effect, there is also a desire to achieve a healthy skin radiance. A cosmetic covering that is too opaque hides the skin under a paint- like coating. Imperfections are hidden but there is no radiance.
Where light transmission is insufficiently hindered, the opposite occurs. Here the glow may be healthy but aesthetically displeasing skin topography and color may now be apparent.
US patent 5,997,890 (Sine et al.), US Patent 5,972,359 (Sine et al.), and US Patent 6,174,533 Bl (SaNogueira, Jr.) are all directed to topical compositions to provide good coverage of skin imperfections. The solution proposed by these documents is the use of a metal oxide with a refractive index of at least about 2 and a neat primary particle size of from about 100 to about 300 nm. preferred particulates are titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide and zinc oxide.
Silicone gelling agents such as crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers because of their excellent skinfeel properties have been found useful in make-up compositions. For instance, US Patent 5,266,321 (Shukuzaki et al.) discloses an oily make-up composition comprised of a silicone gel crosslinked elastomer, titanium dioxide, mica and iron oxides. Japanese patent application 61-194009 (Harashima) describes a make-up composition comprising a cured organopolysiloxane elastomer powder and pigments which may be
So selected from talc, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and iron oxides.
A challenge which has not been fully met by the known art is delivery of a composition with appropriate optics to achieve both soft focus and radiance properties in a system that still provides excellent gkinfeel.
- Summary of the Invention 2A cosmetic composition is provided which includes: (1) a crosslinked silicone elastomer; (ii) a zinc oxide or zirconium oxide of average particle size less than 300 nm; (iii) a taurate polymer; and (iv) a cosmetically acceptable carrier system.
Now it has been observed that a soft focus effect with radiance can be obtained by a combination of fine particle sized zinc oxide or zirconium oxide suspended with a crosslinked silicone elastomer. The zinc oxide or zirconium oxide must have an average particle size less than 300 nm. Absent the elastomer or the oxide, there would be insufficient soft focus effect. Oxide alone is inefficient because of excessive loss of reflectance/radiance.
Crosslinked Silicone Elastomer
A component of the present invention is a crosslinked silicone (organopolysiloxane) elastomer. No specific restriction exists as to the type of curable organopolysiloxane composition that can serve as starting material for the crosslinked silicone elastomer. Examples in this respect are addition reaction- curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure under platinum metal catalysis by the addition reaction between SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane and organopolysiloxane having gsilicon- bonded vinyl groups; condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure in the presence of an organotin compound by a dehydrogenation reaction between hydroxyl terminated diorganopolysiloxane and SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane; condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure in the presence of an organotin compound or a titanate ester, by a condensation reaction between an hydroxyl terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organosilane (this condensation reaction is exemplified by dehydration, alcohol- liberating, oxime-liberating, amine-liberating, amide- liberating, carboxyl-liberating, and ketone-liberating reactions) ; peroxide-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which thermally cure in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; and organopolysiloxane compositions which are cured by high-energy radiation, such as by gamma-rays, ultraviolet radiation, or electron beams. addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxane compositions are preferred for their rapid curing rates and excellent uniformity of curing. A particularly preferred addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxane composition is prepared from: (A) an organopolysiloxare having at least 2 lower alkenyl groups in each molecule; (B) an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in each molecule: and (C) a platinum-type catalyst.
The crosslinked siloxane elastomer of the present invention may either be an emulsifying or non-emulsifying crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer or combinations thereof. The term “‘non-emulsifying, ” as used herein, defines crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer from which polyoxyalkylene units are absent. The term “emulsifying,” as used herein, means crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer having at least one polyoxyalkylene (e.g., polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) unit.
Particularly useful emulsifying elastomers are polyoxyalkylene- modified elastomers formed from divinyl compounds, particularly siloxane polymers with at least two free vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H linkages on a polysiloxane backbone. Preferably, the elastomers are dimethyl polysiloxanes crosslinked by Si-H sites on a molecularly spherical MQ resin. preferred silicone elastomers are organcpolysiloxane compositions available under the INCI names of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer and
Polysilicone-11l. Ordinarily these materials are provided as a 1-30% crosslinked silicone elastomer dissolved or suspended in a dimethicone fluid (usually cyclomethicone). For purposes of definition “crosslinked silicone elastomer” refers to the -- elastomer alone rather than the total commercial compositions which also include a solvent (e.g. dimethicone) carrier.
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers and dimethicone crosspolymers are available from a variety of suppliers including Dow Corning (9040, 9041, 9045, 9506 and 9508), General
Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (RSG-15, 1s, 18 [dimethicone/phenyl wvinyl dimethicone crosspolymer]), and Grant
Industries (Grangil™ line of materials), and lauryl dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied by Shin
Etsu (e.g., KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, and KS5G-44).
Other suitable commercially available silicone elastomer powders include vinyl dimethicone/methicone silesquioxane crosspolymers from Shin-Etsu sold as KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP- 104, KSP-105, and hybrid silicone powders that contain a fluorcalkyl group or a phenyl group sold by Shin-Etsu as respectively KSP-200 and KSP-300.
The crosslinked silicone elastomers of the present invention may range in concentration from about 0.01 to about 30%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10%, optimally from about 0.5 to about 2% by weight of the cosmetic composition. These weight values exclude any solvent such as cyclomethicone found in commercial “elastomer” silicones such as the Dow Corning products 9040 and 9045. For instance, the amount of crosslinked silicone elastomer in 9040 and 9045 is between 12 and 13% by weight.
Most preferred as the silicone elastomer is 9045 which has a DS cyclomethicone swelled elastomer particle size (based on volume - and calculated as spherical particles) which averages about 38 micron, and may range from about 25 to about 55 micron.
Micronized Zinc or Zirconium Oxide
A second important component of the present invention is that of a micronized zinc oxide or zirconium oxide having average (number) particle sizes less than 300 nm, preferably less than 200 nm, more preferably less than 100 nm and optimally less than 85 nm. Generally the particle sizes can range from about 0.01 to about 280 nm, more preferably from about 1 to about 200 nm, even more preferably from 10 to 95 nm, and optimally from 25 to 75 nm.
Average particle size for zinc oxide or zirconium oxide assumes a spherical shape and is defined as the diameter of the particle averaged over many particles. The average value 1s a number average. For spherical particles such as the zinc oxide, laser light scattering is utilized to determine the individual sizes of the particles and generate a particle size distribution plot.
Based upon the distribution plot, the average particle size can be determined. In more mathematical terms, the average particle gsize is a diameter converted from the meso-pore specific surface area determined by the t-plot method (particle size converted excluding the specific surface area of micro pores of less than 20 Angstrom). In detail, the average particle size D, assuming the particle as spherical form, can be obtained by the following equation: D=6/pS, where S (m®’/g) represents a meso-pore specific surface area and p(g/cm’) is the density.
The amount of the oxide may range from about 0.1 to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10%, optimally from about 1 to about 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
Since the zinc oxide or zirconium oxide particles are applied to skin, it is desirable that they be free of toxic trace metal contaminants. A particularly preferred zinc oxide has trace concentrations of lead (less than 20 ppm), arsenic (less than 3 ppm), cadmium (less than 15 ppm) and mercury (less than 1 ppm).
This material is commercially available from BASF Corporation under the trademark of Z-Cote HP1. These particles are best delivered to the formula as a pre-mix of 5-80% weight by weight suspended in an organic ester base. zinc oxide or zirconium oxide particles of the present invention advantageously but not necessarily are substantially spherical in shape. The refractive index of these particles may preferably range from about 1.8 to about 2.3. Measurement of refractive index can be performed according to a method described in J.A. Dean, Ed., Lange's Handbook of Chemistry, 14
Ed., McGraw Hill, New York 1992, Section 9, Refractometry, incorporated herein by reference.
Taurate Polymer
A further important component of the invention will be an associative polymer. Particularly preferred are taurate homopolymers and copolymers. The copolymers are especially useful wherein the taurate repeating monomer unit is acryloyl dimethyl taurate (in either free acid or salt form). Monomers forming the copolymer with taurate may include: styrene, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl chloride, vinyl acetate, vinyl pyrrolidone, isoprene, vinyl alcohol, vinyl methylether, chloro-styrene, ~ dialkylamino-styrene, maleic acid, acrylamide, methacrylamide and mixtures thereof. Where the term “acid” appears, the term means not only the free acid but also C;-Cio alkyl esters, anhydrides and salts thereof. Preferably but not exclusively the salts may be ammonium, alkanolammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts. Most preferred are the ammonium and alkanolammonium salts.
Examples of suitable taurate polymers are those listed in the Table below.
T
© "lel 18 ot [e] Lo] i%] [J] [0] gq “ fu] [12]
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Hola |g 0
LER a |= os |g #4 - El 8 8 & g 3) | ol 8 2 lu r= 1 loi | 5
NERF ml [0 |olgle {8 iH 0 ale Hl) 8 la |B 8 a |g 818 (18|5lE [2 |= of lu [228 19 [3
B18 slr R18
SH fe MELE E o
ARERR 8 318 Edy |g 8 lo |2{SIE |B |B
I= 0 [ef RITE] ~ slel 12 BEE [3 3
SEER
S18 1° |g D asl = 1538 |18 5 35a (BIE |B
EERE EERERE galls mgs 0d ol ol 81 Z| fm ~i o plod viele nl 3g
Sloe 88d (4 33a | [0] [7] g ol gid] gli 8 g =
Pio — = -A -A hat hed Ed RS II EE EE 3 oF > on El © ola = Oo
S184 NEES PIER] 2121318 |gElS [280
HEE ERE
Aal518]8 |= 3|® > 0 OU =
NN Fa RS £10] © © OY > oo B= | Blas I~ gielulg |=lplg 183
SRS (Bole |sal®S nfaEats JES r= La slglgy elaly |adlad
STISIRR {Bald
LEE 80% 0
EEE EEE gl glg|eld Hiplalg -A Ny
FEE EE 33 Tg QT A
Q 8g o|lo @ x0 “nA nln oly UE Qf 0 nlio
HEE
« |@) olo | ©] o|5|xlg|B 3B BH 2 £ -A
SAE ov |B |@ olojul+ |oloo | [oo
HE 88 9593 2
EE I RAR] E E
HAE |alaa [8 |& a oly sEIEIE! olujlu |v ju aldl-A|-- Hl = = .
BEI EIRIE |B[28 |B I& alalal=ln |(dlald |B |=
Dio|Ui® |w|lanja |a |«
Most preferred as the copolymer is Acryloyl Dimethyltaurate/Vinyl
Pyrrolidone Copolymer, which is the INCI nomenclature, for a material supplied by Clariant Corporation under the trademark
Aristoflex® AVC, having the following general formula:
DID
N
0) NH 0]
HC
H,C CH
SO,NH, wherein n and m are integers which may independently vary from 1 to 10,000.
Number average molecular weight of taurate polymers accérding to the invention may range from about 1,000 to about 3,000,000, preferably from about 3,000 to about 100,000, optimally from about 10,000 to about 80,000. ‘Amounts of the taurate polymer may range from about 0.001 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.01 to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 5%, optimally from about 0.2 to about 1% by weight of the composition.
Optional Particles
Another desirable component of compositions according to the present invention is that of a light reflecting platelet shaped particles. These particles will have an average particle size
Ds, ranging from about 10,000 to about 30,000 nm. The refractive index of these particles are preferred to be at least about 1.8, generally from about 1.9 tc about 4, more preferably from about 2 to about 3, optimally between about 2.5 and 2.8.
Illustrative but not limiting examples of light reflecting particles are bismuth oxychloride (single crystal platelets) and titanium dioxide coated mica. Suitable bismuth oxychloride crystals are available from EM Industries, Inc. under the trademarks Biron® NLY-L-2X CO and Biron® Silver CO (wherein the platelets are dispersed in castor oil); Biron® Liquid Silver (wherein the payticles are dispersed in a stearate ester); and
Nailsyn® IGO, Nailsyn® II C2X and Nailsyn® II Platinum 25 (wherein the platelets are dispersed in nitrocellulose). Most preferred is a system where bismuth oxychloride is dispersed in a C,.Ce alkyl ester such as in Biron® Liquid Silver.
Among the suitable titanium dioxide coated mica platelets are materials available from EM Industries, Inc. These include
Timiron® MP-10 (particle size range 10,000-30,000 nm), Timiron®
MP-14 (particle size range 5,000-30,000 nm), Timiron® MP-30 (particle size range 2,000-20,000 nm), Timiron® MP-101 (particle size range 5,000-45,000 nm), Timiron® ™MP-111 (particle size range 5,000-40,000 nm), Timiron® MP-1001 (particle size range 5,000-20,000 nm), Timiron® MP-155 (particle size range 10,000-
40,000 nm), Timiron® MP-175 (particle size range 10,000-40,000),
Timiron® MP-115 (particle size range 10,000-40,000 mm), and — Timiron® MP-127 (particle size range 10,000-40,000 nm). Most preferred is Timiron® MP-111. The weight ratio of titanium dioxide ccating to the mica platelet may range from about 1:10 to about 5:1, preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:6, more preferably from about 1:3 to about 1:4 by weight.
Advantageously the preferred compositions will generally be substantially free of titanium dioxide outside of that required for coating mica.
Coatings for mica other than titanium dioxide may also be suitable. Silica coatings are such an alternative.
The amount of the light reflecting platelet shaped particles may range from about 0.1 to about 5%, preferably from about 0.5 to ' 15 about 3%, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 2%, optimally from about 1 to about 1.5% by weight of the composition.
Advantageously compositions of the present invention will have a
Reflectance Intensity as measured at a 30° angle ranging from 140 to 170 thousand Watt-nm/cm?’. Light Transmission Intensity advantageously ranges from 4 to 7 million Watt-nm/cm® at an angle of 0°; a Transmission Intensity ranging from 1 to 2 million wWatt-nm/cm® at a 10° angle; a Transmission Intensity ranging from 120 to 140 thousand watt-nm/cm® at a 30° angle; a
Transmission Intensity ranging from 60 to 80 thousand Watt- nm/cm® at a 40° angle; and a Transmission Intensity ranging from 40 to 60 thousand Watt-nm/cm’ at a 50° angle.
Advantageously the weight ratio of zinc oxide and zirconium oxide to light reflecting platelet shaped particles may range - from about 4:1 to about 1:1, preferably from about 3:1 to about 1.5:1, optimally about 2:1 by weight. In a preferred but not limiting example, the amount of silicone elastomer and oxide particles relative to the light reflective platelet shaped particles may be present in a ratio from about 10:1 to about 1:1, preferably from about 6:1 to about 1:1, more preferably from about 5:1 to about 3:1, optimally about 4:1 by weight.
Advantageously compositions of the present invention may include a non-coated mica. These mica particles can also be platelets but of thinner and smaller particle size than the coated micas mentioned above. Particularly preferred is Satin Mica, available from Merck-Rona. These are useful to remove any excessive glitter imparted by the light scattering platelets.
Advantageously the particle size of the non-coated mica is no higher than 15,000 nm and an average (volume) particle size ranging from 1,000 to 10,000 nm, preferably from 5,000 to 8,000 nm.
The amount of the non-coated mica may range from about 0.05 to about 2%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.5%, optimally from about 0.4 to about 0.8% by weight of the composition.
Advantagecusly present may also be water-insoluble organic material in the form of polymeric porous spherical particles. By the term “porous” is meant an open or closed cell structure. Preferably the particles are not hollow beads. Average particle size may range from about 0.1 to about 100, preferably from about 1 to about 50,
more preferably greater than 5 and especially from 5 to about 15, optimally from about 6 to about 10 um. Organic polymers ox — copolymers are the preferred materials and can be formed from monomers including the acid, salt or ester forms of acrylic acid and methacrylic . acid, methylacrylate, ethylacrylate, ethylene, propylene, vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile, maleic acid, vinyl pyrrolidone, styrene, butadiene and mixtures thereof. The polymers are especially useful in cross-linked form. Cells of the porous articles may be filled by a gas which can be air, nitrogen or a hydrocarbon. 0il Absorbance (castor oil) is a measure of porosity and in the preferred but not limiting embodiment may xrange from about 90 to about 500, preferably from about 100 to about 200, optimally from about 120 to about 180 ml/100 grams. Density of the particles in the preferred but not limiting embodiment may range from about 0.08 to 0.55, preferably from about 0.15 to 0.48 g/cm’.
Illustrative porous polymers include polymethylmethacrylate, and cross-linked polystyrene. Most preferred is polymethyl methacrylate available as Ganzpearl® GMP 820 available from Prespexse, Inc.,
Piscataway, New Jersey, known also by its INCI name of Methyl
Methacrylate Crosspolymer.
Amounts of the water-insoluble polymeric porous particles may range from about 0.01 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1 to about S%, optimally from about 0.3 to about 2% by weight of the composition.
Carrier System and Optional Components
A crystalline structurant advantageously may be pxesent in compositions according to the present invention. The structurant may include both a surfactant and a co-surfactant. The nature of the surfactant and co-surfactant will depend upon whether the crystalline structurant is anionic or nonionic. For structurants that are anionic, the preferred surfactants are Cp-C;; fatty acids and salts (i.e. soap) thereof and particularly combinations of these materials. Typical counterions forming the fatty acid salt are those of ammonium, sodium, potassium, lithium, trialkanolammonium (e.g. triethanolammonium) and combinations thereof. Amounts of the fatty acid to the fatty acid salt when both present may range from about 100:1 to about 1:100, preferably from about 50:1 to about 1:50, and optimally from about 3:1 to about 1:3 by weight.
Illustrative fatty acids include behenic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, hydroxystearic acid and combinations thereof. Most preferred is stearic acid. Among the fatty acid salts the most preferred is sodium stearate.
The co-surfactant for an anionic crystalline structurant typically is a Ci o-Cp, fatty alcohol, a C;-Cioo ester of a Cio-Ca fatty acid and particularly combinations of these materials. Relative amounts of the ester to the alcohol when both present may range from about 100:1 to about 1:100, preferably from about 50:1 to about 1:50, and optimally from about 3:1 to about 1:3 by weight. Typical fatty alcohols include behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and combinations thereof. Esters of the fatty acid preferably are polyol esters such as C,;-C; alkoxylated alcohol esters. Among these are the polyethoxy, polypropoxy and block polyethoxy/polypropoxy alcohol esters. Particularly preferred are such esters as PEG-100 stearate,
PEG-20 stearate, PEG-80 laurate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-100 palmitate,
PEG-20 palmitate and combinations thereof.
The relative amount of surfactant and co-surfactant for the anionic structurant may range from about 50:1 to about 1:50, preferably from about 10:1 to about 1:10, and optimally from about 3:1 to about 1s3 by weight.
Nonionic type crystalline structurant will have a surfactant and a co-gsurfactant different than that for the anionic systems.
Preferred nonionic structurant surfactants are C;-Cze esters of Cio-
GC,» fatty acid. Esters of the fatty acid preferably are polyol esters such as C.-C; alkoxylated alcohol or sorbitol esters. Among these are the polyethoxy, polypropoxy and block polyethyoxy/polypropoxy alcohol esters. Particularly preferred are such esters as Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, PEG-100 stearate,
PEG-20 stearate, PEG-80 laurate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-100 palmitate,
PEG-20 palmitate and combinations thereof.
The co-gurfactant of a nonionic structurant typically may be a combination of a Cp-Cp, fatty alcohol, glyceryl esters of a Cp-Chaz fatty acid, and a Cpo-Czz unesterified fatty acid. Relative amounts of the ester to the alcohol may range from about 100:1 to about 1:100, preferably from about 50:1 to about 1:50, and optimally from about 3:1 to about 1:3 by weight. Relative amounts of the combination of glyceryl ester and fatty alcohol to unesterified fatty acid may range from about 100:1 to about 1:100, preferably from about 50:1 to about 1:50, and optimally from about 3:1 to about 1:3 by weight. Typical fatty alcohols include behenyl alcchol,
stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and combinations thereof.
The relative amount of surfactant and co-surfactant in a necnionic structurant may range from about 50:1 to about 1:50, preferably from about 10:1 to about 1:10, and optimally from about 3:1 to about 1:3 by weight.
A crystalline structurant is formed by the surfactant and co- surfactant. Indeed, the surfactant and co-surfactant combination in their relative ratio and type of material is defined by an enthalpy which may range from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 2.5 to about 12, and optimally from about 3.5 to about 8 Joules per gram, as measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry.
Furthermore, the crystalline structurant system advantageously may have a melting point ranging from about 30 to about 70°C, preferably from about 45 to about 65°C, and optimally from about 50 to about 60°C.
Normal forces which are positive numbers reflect a silky smooth skin feel of the formulation. Negative values have been identified with a draggy feel which many consumers dislike. Normal force is measured in the following manner. A rheometer that has a shear rate mode capability and a normal force transducer is utilized to measure the high shear normal force. These devices are available from
Rheometric Scientific ARES, TA Instruments AR2000, and Paar Physica
MCR. Samples are compressed between concentric parallel plates of diameter 25 mm and gap (vertical distance between the two plates) of 100 microns. The measurements are made in a continuous logarithmic ghear sweep mode with a shear rate range of 1 to 10,000 s?*. Each
Claims (13)
1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (i) a crosslinked silicone elastomer; (ii) a zinc oxide or zirconium oxide of average particle size less than 300 nm; (iii) a taurate polymer; and (iv) a cosmetically acceptable carrier system.
2. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the taurate polymer is a copolymer of acryloyl dimethyl taurate and a monomer selected from the group consisting of styrene, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl chloride, vinyl acetate, vinyl pyrrolidone, isoprene, vinyl alcohol, vinyl methylether, chloro-styrene, dialkylamino-styrene, maleic acid, acrylamide, methacrylamide and mixtures thereof.
3. The composition according to claim 2 wherein the taurate copolymer is Acryloyl Dimethyltaurate/Vinyl Pyrrol idone Copolymer.
4. The composition according to any preceding claim further comprising a light reflecting inorganic platelet shaped particle having an average particle size of 10,000 to 30,000 nm.
5. The composition according to claim 4 wherein the light reflecting inorganic platelet shaped particles are selected from titanium dioxide coated mica or bismuth oxychloride.
6. The composition according to any preceding claim further comprising a crystalline structurant formed by a surfactant and a co-surfactant in a relative weight ratio and type of material defined by an enthalpy ranging from 2 to 15 Joules per gram as measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry.
7. The composition according to any preceding claim having a : normal force ranging from +5 to +100 grams.
8. The composition according to claim 7 wherein the normal force ranges from +25 to +40 grams.
9. The composition according to any preceding claim further comprising from 0.01 to 10% by weight of porous particles of polymethylmethacrylate.
10. The composition according to any preceding claim further comprising from 0.05 to 2% of a non-coated mica of average (volume) particle size ranging from 1,000 to 10,000 nm.
11. The composition according to any preceding claim having a Transmission Intensity of 4 to 7 million watt -nm/cm? measured at an angle of 0°; a Transmission Intensity ranging from 1 to 2 million watt-nm/cm® measured at a 10° angle; a Transmission Intensity ranging from 120 to 140 thousand watt-nm/cm® measured at a 30° angle; a Transmission Intensity ranging from 60 to 80 thousand watt-nm/cm’ measured at a 40° angle; and a Transmission Intensity ranging from 40 to 60 thousand watt-nm/cm® measured at a 50° angle.
12. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the composition has a Reflection Intensity ranging from 140 to 170 thousand watt-nm/cm® measured at a 30° angle.-
13. A cosmetic composition comprising: : (i) from 0.01 to 30% of a crosslinked silicone elastomer by weight of the composition; (ii) from 0.1 to 20% of a zinc oxide by weight of the composition, the zinc oxide having an average particle size less than 300 nm; (iii) from 0.001 to 10% of a taurate polymer by weight of the composition; and (iv) a cosmetically acceptable carrier system; and wherein the composition has a Transmission Intensity of 4 to 7 million watt -nm/cm? measured at an angle of 0°; a Transmission Intensity ranging from 1 to 2 million watt-nm/cm® measured at a 10° angle; a Transmission Intensity ranging from 120 to 140 thousand watt-nm/cm® measured at a 30° angle; a Transmission Intensity ranging from 60 to 80 thousand watt-nm/cn® measured at a 40° angle; and a Transmission Intensity ranging from 40 to 60 thousand watt-nm/cm® measured at a 50° angle.
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US53866404P | 2004-01-23 | 2004-01-23 |
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ZA200605884A ZA200605884B (en) | 2004-01-23 | 2005-01-12 | Taurate formulated pigmented cosmetic composition exhibiting radiance with soft focus |
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JP (1) | JP2007518761A (en) |
AR (1) | AR047737A1 (en) |
AU (1) | AU2005205898B8 (en) |
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TW (1) | TW200536569A (en) |
WO (1) | WO2005070384A1 (en) |
ZA (1) | ZA200605884B (en) |
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US20070092457A1 (en) * | 2005-10-24 | 2007-04-26 | Librizzi Joseph J | Compositions comprising polymeric emulsifiers and methods of using the same |
FR2910284B1 (en) * | 2006-12-20 | 2009-04-17 | Oreal | COSMETIC PRODUCT COMPRISING SILICONE COMPOUNDS AND AN AMPHIPHILIC POLYMER |
US9345649B2 (en) | 2006-12-21 | 2016-05-24 | Avon Products, Inc. | Cosmetic composition containing novel fractal particle-based gels |
TWI468185B (en) * | 2007-12-27 | 2015-01-11 | Avon Prod Inc | Gel technology suitable for use in cosmetic compositions |
TWI411448B (en) | 2007-12-27 | 2013-10-11 | Avon Prod Inc | Optical blurring pigment composition suitable for use in cosmetics |
EP2262469A4 (en) * | 2008-04-15 | 2013-12-04 | Immanence Integrale Dermo Correction Inc | Skin care compositions and methods of use thereof |
EP2456413B1 (en) * | 2009-07-20 | 2017-06-21 | L'Oréal | Emulsion containing a bismuth oxychloride dispersion |
US8933134B2 (en) | 2010-06-09 | 2015-01-13 | L'oreal | Compositions containing agar and a softening agent |
FR2975905B1 (en) * | 2011-05-31 | 2013-06-28 | Lvmh Rech | COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR CARE OR MAKE-UP CONTAINING POWDERS AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE |
JP6297558B2 (en) * | 2012-08-01 | 2018-03-20 | ダウ コーニング コーポレーションDow Corning Corporation | Aqueous silicone dispersions and their preparation |
FR3002449B1 (en) | 2013-02-25 | 2015-04-03 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF GEL TYPE |
FR3021533B1 (en) | 2014-05-28 | 2017-09-15 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF GEL TYPE |
JP6567262B2 (en) * | 2014-09-30 | 2019-08-28 | 小林製薬株式会社 | Composition for external use |
FR3061004B1 (en) * | 2016-12-28 | 2019-08-16 | L V M H Recherche | UNIVERSAL COSMETIC COMPOSITION |
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JPS5798205A (en) * | 1980-12-09 | 1982-06-18 | Pola Chem Ind Inc | Cosmetic giving durable make-up |
FR2751542B1 (en) * | 1996-07-29 | 1998-09-11 | Oreal | SKIN OR HAIR PROTECTION COMPOSITION CONTAINING NANOPIGMENTS AND AN ELASTOMERIC SOLID ORGANOPOLYSILOXANE ASSOCIATED WITH A FATTY PHASE |
FR2787460A1 (en) * | 1998-12-18 | 2000-06-23 | Oreal | STABLE COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLY POLYMER (2-ACRYLAMIDO 2-METHYL-PROPANE SULFONIC), UNCOATED SOLID PARTICLES AND AN OIL-DISPERSANT POLYMER |
FR2794125B1 (en) * | 1999-05-26 | 2001-07-20 | Oreal | COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION AND ITS USES, IN PARTICULAR COSMETICS |
DE10065047A1 (en) * | 2000-12-23 | 2002-07-04 | Beiersdorf Ag | Gelcèmes in the form of O / W emulsions containing one or more ammonium aryldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers |
US6986895B2 (en) * | 2001-09-12 | 2006-01-17 | Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Thickened cosmetic compositions |
EP1325729B1 (en) * | 2002-01-04 | 2006-04-19 | L'oreal | Composition containing a silicone copolymer and either a polymer from an ethylenically unsaturated monomer with sulfonic groups or an organic powder; uses thereof, especially in cosmetics |
FR2834450B1 (en) * | 2002-01-04 | 2004-02-06 | Oreal | COMPOSITION CONTAINING A SILICONE COPOLYMER AND AN AMPS POLYMER, AND ITS IN PARTICULAR COSMETIC USES |
US20030228337A1 (en) * | 2002-05-29 | 2003-12-11 | Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Personal care compositions with hydroxy amine neutralized polymers |
DE10250755B4 (en) * | 2002-10-31 | 2007-02-08 | Merz Pharma Gmbh & Co. Kgaa | A foamable composition based on an O / W emulsion comprising a combination of a silicone-based emulsifier and an anionic surfactant having improved skin action, their preparation and their use |
FR2853535B1 (en) * | 2003-04-14 | 2006-07-14 | Oreal | PHOTOPROTECTIVE COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYL PROPANE SULFONIC ACID POLYMER AND A 4,4-DIARYLBUTADIENE, USES |
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AR047737A1 (en) | 2006-02-15 |
WO2005070384A1 (en) | 2005-08-04 |
TW200536569A (en) | 2005-11-16 |
AU2005205898B8 (en) | 2008-05-29 |
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