WO2024165675A1 - Composition comprising at least one amino acid, at least one associative polyurethane, at least one particular polysaccharide and at least one amino silicone - Google Patents

Composition comprising at least one amino acid, at least one associative polyurethane, at least one particular polysaccharide and at least one amino silicone Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024165675A1
WO2024165675A1 PCT/EP2024/053191 EP2024053191W WO2024165675A1 WO 2024165675 A1 WO2024165675 A1 WO 2024165675A1 EP 2024053191 W EP2024053191 W EP 2024053191W WO 2024165675 A1 WO2024165675 A1 WO 2024165675A1
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weight
preferentially
mixtures
radical
carbon atoms
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PCT/EP2024/053191
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French (fr)
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Lucile GITTON
Lyna ABDAT-VINDEL
Guillaume RONCHARD
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • DESCRIPTION TITLE Composition comprising at least one amino acid, at least one associative polyurethane, at least one particular polysaccharide and at least one amino silicone
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an amino acid, an associative polyurethane, a particular polysaccharide and an amino silicone.
  • the invention also relates to a process for treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, comprising at least one step of applying such a composition to said keratin materials, and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres.
  • the hair may be damaged and made brittle by external atmospheric agents such as pollution and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, or certain routines, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving, straightening and/or repeated washing.
  • particles of metal such as copper
  • said particles of metal, such as copper may accumulate on the surface of the keratin material, in particular the keratin fibre such as the hair, or even penetrate the cuticles. The accumulation of these metal particles inside the hair affects the resistance thereof.
  • hair care compositions intended for conditioning the hair by giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular smoothness, sheen, softness to the touch, suppleness and lightness, and also good disentangling properties leading to easy combing and good manageability of the hair, which is thus easier to style.
  • hair care compositions are increasingly used to combat the accumulation of metals in the hair fibre or to neutralize metal ions.
  • these compositions do not sufficiently improve the quality of the fibre in order to make it possible to repair it or to reduce breaking thereof, for example during combing or disentangling.
  • keratin materials notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which is preferably damaged and/or sensitized
  • said means being capable of conditioning said materials satisfactorily, of neutralizing metal ions and/or metals, in particular iron, copper and/or calcium, and of maintaining or improving the quality of these materials, thus making it possible to repair them and/or reduce the breakage thereof, for example during combing or disentangling.
  • keratin materials in particular keratin fibres, of a composition comprising an amino acid and/or a salt thereof in combination with an associative polyurethane, a polysaccharide other than cationic polymers and an amino silicone makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above, and in particular to neutralize the metal ions and/or metals of the hair and thus to repair and/or prevent the breakage of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, giving keratin materials, including keratin fibres such as hair, in particular excellent cosmetic properties, in particular lightness, softness, a smooth feel and sheen, and also improved disentangling and combing.
  • a subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof, and/or mixtures thereof; (b) at least one associative polyurethane; (c) optionally at least one cationic polymer; (d) at least one polysaccharide other than the cationic polymers; and (e) at least one amino silicone.
  • hair treated with the composition according to the invention has good cosmetic properties, in particular as regards lightness, softness, smooth feel, sheen, and ease of disentangling and combing. Moreover, it has been observed that the metal ions and/or metals accumulated in the hair thus treated is neutralized, thereby helping to reduce the breakage thereof. Moreover, the composition according to the invention has good working qualities. It is easy to apply and distribute over keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres. It has a pleasant texture.
  • a subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying the composition according to the invention to said keratin materials, notably keratin fibres.
  • a subject of the invention is also the use of the above composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith; - the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;
  • the term “keratin materials” denotes keratin fibres, and in particular the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes or the scalp;
  • the term “keratin fibres” denotes human keratin fibres and more particularly the hair;
  • the term “silicone” means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and constituted essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino acid, a salt thereof, and/or mixtures thereof.
  • the amino acid is chosen from natural amino acids, synthetic amino acids, in their L, D or racemic form, and mixtures thereof, and comprises at least one acid function chosen from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Said amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.
  • the amino acid(s) are preferably chosen from neutral amino acids, acidic amino acids, and mixtures thereof.
  • neutral amino acids is intended to mean amino acids which have a pH, at ambient temperature (25°C), in water of inclusively between 5 and 7.
  • amino acids is intended to mean amino acids which have a pH, at ambient temperature, in water of less than 5.
  • the amino acid(s) may be natural or synthetic ⁇ -amino acids comprising a carbon atom C bearing an amine group, a carboxyl group, a hydrogen atom and a side group which may be a hydrogen atom (in the case of glycine), any other monovalent organic group or a ring comprising said carbon atom C, the nitrogen atom of said amine group and several additional carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 4 additional carbon atoms.
  • the side groups may notably be alkyl groups (in the case of alanine, valine, leucine or isoleucine), substituted alkyl groups (in the case of threonine, serine, methionine, cysteine, asparagine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glutamine, arginine and lysine), arylalkyl groups (in the case of phenylalanine and tryptophan), substituted arylalkyl groups (in the case of tyrosine) or heteroalkyl groups (in the case of histidine).
  • alkyl groups in the case of alanine, valine, leucine or isoleucine
  • substituted alkyl groups in the case of threonine, serine, methionine, cysteine, asparagine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glutamine, arginine and lysine
  • arylalkyl groups in the case of phenylalanine and
  • the side group may in particular be a 5-membered ring comprising said carbon atom C, the nitrogen atom of said amine group and three additional carbon atoms, as in the case of proline.
  • ⁇ -amino acids are notably listed in Harper et al. (1977) Review of Physiological Chemistry, 16th edition, Lange Medical Publications, pages 21-24.
  • synthetic ⁇ -amino acid means an ⁇ -amino acid which is not incorporated into a protein under the control of mRNA, for instance a fluorinated ⁇ - amino acid such as fluoroalanine or trimethylsilylalanine, or an ⁇ -amino acid such as: where n 1 is an integer from 1 to 6 and n 2 is an integer from 1 to 12.
  • Synthetic amino acids are, furthermore, described in Williams (Ed.), Synthesis of Optically Active ⁇ -Amino Acids, Pergamon Press (1989); Evans et al., J. Amer. Chem. Soc.112, 4011-4030 (1990); PU et al., J. Amer. Chem.
  • the amino acid is chosen from glycine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, polylysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N- phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • amino acid salts is understood to mean salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium and calcium salts and zinc salts.
  • the amino acid(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, glutamic acid, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from glycine, sodium glutamate, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from glycine and arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of the amino acid(s), a salt thereof and/or mixtures thereof ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the amino acid(s), a salt thereof and/or mixtures thereof is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of glycine and/or arginine and/or salts thereof ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of glycine and/or arginine and/or salts thereof is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of glycine and/or salts thereof ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of glycine and/or salts thereof is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Associative polyurethane The composition according to the invention comprises at least one associative polyurethane.
  • associative polymers are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
  • the associative polyurethanes according to the invention preferably comprise at least one fatty chain of at least 8 carbon atoms. They are not siliconized. This type of polymer is capable of interacting with itself or with particular compounds such as surfactants to lead to thickening of the medium.
  • the associative polyurethane may be chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethanes, anionic associative polyurethanes, cationic associative polyurethanes, amphoteric or zwitterionic associative polyurethanes and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from non-ionic associative polyurethanes, anionic associative polyurethanes and cationic associative polyurethanes and mixtures thereof.
  • Anionic As anionic associative polyurethanes according to the invention mention may in particular be made of an acrylic terpolymer which is soluble or swellable in alkalis.
  • It is characterized in that it comprises: a) about 20% to 70% by weight, preferably 25% to 55% by weight, of an ⁇ , ⁇ - monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid; b) about 20% to 80% by weight, preferably 30% to 65% by weight, of a non- surfactant monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than a) and c) about 0.5% to 60% by weight, preferably 10% to 50% by weight, of a non- ionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a monohydric non-ionic surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.
  • the acrylic terpolymer defined above is obtained by aqueous emulsion copolymerization of the components a), b) and c) which is entirely common and described in patent application EP-A-0173109.
  • anionic associative polyurethanes that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made notably of methacrylic or acrylic acid copolymers comprising at least one C 1 -C 30 alkyl (meth)acrylate unit and a urethane unit substituted with a fatty chain.
  • Non-ionic associative polyurethanes used in the present invention may be polyether-polyurethanes comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks most usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.
  • the polyether-polyurethanes include at least two hydrocarbon- based lipophilic chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.
  • the polymer may include a hydrocarbon- based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
  • the polyether-polyurethanes may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form.
  • the hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
  • the fatty-chain non-ionic polyether-polyurethanes may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylenated chain including from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.
  • the non-ionic polyether-polyurethanes include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.
  • fatty-chain non-ionic polyether-polyurethanes include those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
  • fatty-chain non-ionic polyether-polyurethanes use may also be made of Rheolate 205 containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184, Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 from the company Röhm & Haas (Aculyn 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4- cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene
  • the product DW 1206B from Röhm & Haas bearing a C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
  • Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, notably in water or in an aqueous/alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox.
  • polyether-polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention may be, in particular, those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and FK. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).
  • non-ionic associative polyurethanes mention may be made of polyether-polyurethanes that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
  • polyether-polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company Röhm & Haas under the names Aculyn® 46 and Aculyn® 44.
  • Aculyn® 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%), and Aculyn® 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).
  • SMDI methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate)
  • HDI hexamethylene diisocyanate
  • the cationic associative polyurethanes are preferably chosen from cationic associative polyurethanes, the family of which has been described by the applicant in French patent application No.0009609; it can be represented by general formula (Ia) below: R-X-(P) n -[L-(Y) m ] r -L’-(P') p -X’-R’ (Ia) in which: - R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; - X and X’, which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L”; - L, L’ and L”, which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; - P and P’, which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group; - Y
  • the cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) comprise, as the only hydrophobic groups, the groups R and R’ at the chain ends.
  • One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) described above, in which: - R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group, - X and X’ each represent a group L”, - n and p are integers that are between 1 and 1000 inclusive, and - L, L’, L”, P, P’, Y and m have the meaning given above.
  • Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which: - the fact that n and p are 0 is intended to mean that these polymers do not comprise units derived from a monomer containing an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation. - the protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions, at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i.e.
  • R and R’ are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.
  • Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.
  • R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group
  • X and X’ both independently represent a group including a quaternary amine
  • n and p are zero
  • L, L’, Y and m have the meaning indicated above.
  • the number-average molecular mass of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500000, in particular between 1000 and 400000 and ideally between 1000 and 300000.
  • hydrophobic group means a radical or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain.
  • hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical, it includes at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based group originates from a monofunctional compound.
  • the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
  • X and/or X’ denote(s) a group including a tertiary or quaternary amine
  • the groups L, L’ and L” represent a group of formula: in which: Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and R 4 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, it being possible for one or more of the carbon atoms to be replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.
  • the groups P and P’ comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae: in which: R 5 and R 7 have the same meanings as R 2 defined previously; R 6 , R 8 and R 9 have the same meanings as R 1 and R 3 defined previously; R 10 represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P; and A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate.
  • the term “hydrophilic group” means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.
  • ethylene glycol diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
  • hydrophilic polymer mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers.
  • the hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).
  • the cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds bearing functions containing labile hydrogen.
  • the functions containing labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively.
  • polyurethanes encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and also copolymers thereof.
  • a first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound including at least one unit bearing an amine function.
  • This compound may be multifunctional, but preferentially the compound is difunctional, that is to say that this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine, or thiol function.
  • a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may also be used.
  • this compound may include more than one unit containing an amine function. In this case, it is a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.
  • Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulae: HZ-(P)n-ZH, or HZ-(P’)p-ZH in which Z, P, P’, n and p are as defined above.
  • a third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the hydrophobic end groups of the polymer of formula (Ia). This compound is constituted of a hydrophobic group and a function containing labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.
  • this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as, in particular, stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol.
  • this compound may be, for example, ⁇ -hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.
  • the hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound including at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced via the quaternizing agent.
  • This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R’Q, in which R and R’ are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.
  • the cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.
  • the functions containing labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing labile hydrogen.
  • ethylene glycol diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
  • hydrophilic polymer mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers.
  • the hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).
  • the hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (Ia) is optional.
  • the units containing a quaternary or protonated amine function may be sufficient to provide the solubility or water-dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.
  • the associative polyurethanes are chosen from polyurethanes comprising at least one terminal or pendent fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.
  • the associative polyurethane(s) are chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethanes, preferably from those comprising at least one terminal or pendent fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, more preferentially from polyether-polyurethanes, even more preferentially from the copolymer PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, the HDI/HMDI/SMDI/IPDI/polyurethane copolymer, the PPG-51/SMDI copolymer, the PPG-12/SMD copolymer, the HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosslinked copolymer, the PEG-8/SMDI copolymer and mixtures thereof, better still from the copolymer PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis- Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether.
  • non-ionic associative polyurethanes preferably from those comprising at least one terminal or
  • the total content of the associative polyurethane(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the non-ionic associative polyurethane(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the non-ionic associative polyurethane(s) comprising at least one terminal or pendent fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Cationic polymer The composition according to the invention optionally comprises at least one cationic polymer other than the associative polyurethanes described above.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer other than the associative polyurethanes described above.
  • the cationic polymer is not a silicone polymer, i.e.
  • cationic polymer means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups.
  • the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic.
  • the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units including primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5 ⁇ 10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3 ⁇ 10 6 approximately.
  • cationic polymers examples include: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae: in which: - R 3 , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical; - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R 4 , R 5 and R 6 , which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R 1 and R 2 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl
  • the copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • copolymers of family (1) mention may be made of: - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by Hercules, - copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba Geigy, - the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by Hercules, - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or
  • Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester.
  • cationic polysaccharides particularly cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • the cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1492597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4131576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3589578 and US 4031307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).
  • a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt for example a chloride
  • Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia; (3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers; (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive
  • adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz; (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc, or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette »01 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer; (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): in which - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; - R 12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; - R 10 and R 11 , independently of one another, denote a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a C 1 -C 5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C 1 -C 4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R 10 and R
  • copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts and of acrylamide may be sold in particular under the name Merquat 550, Merquat 7SPR, Merquat 550PR or Flocare C107; (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula: in which: - R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 , which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C 1 -C 12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals; or else R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 , together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non- nitrogen heteroatom; or else R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or
  • X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100000. Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula: in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol; (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF; (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary; (12) polymers including in their structure: (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below: (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below: In other words, these polymers may be particularly chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
  • These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3000000 g/mol, preferably from 10000 to 1000000 and more particularly from 100000 to 500000 g/mol.
  • the polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
  • Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (1), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above.
  • the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(C 1 -C 4 )alkyltri(C 1 -C 4 )alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic polymer(s), when they are present in the composition, are chosen from cationic polysaccharides, cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium and mixtures thereof, preferentially from cationic galactomannan gums, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from cationic guar gums, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide and mixtures thereof, better still from copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of the cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the cationic polymer(s) chosen from cationic polysaccharides, cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the cationic polymer(s) chosen from cationic guar gums, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Polysaccharide other than cationic polymers The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide other than cationic polymers, preferably chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides.
  • the polysaccharides other than the cationic polymers are not silicone polymers.
  • the non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from celluloses, starches, galactomannans, scleroglucan and non-ionic derivatives thereof, notably ethers or esters thereof. These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. Mention may be made, as physical treatment, of the temperature and mention may be made, as chemical treatment, of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions, in so far as these treatments make it possible to give polymers that are non-ionic.
  • non-ionic guar gums which can be modified with (poly)hydroxy(C 1 -C 6 )alkyl groups, notably hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
  • non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • the botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers.
  • the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.
  • the starches may be chemically or physically modified, notably by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.
  • the starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, notably such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above.
  • the starch is preferably derived from potato.
  • the non-ionic polysaccharides may also be cellulose-based polymers not including a C 10 -C 30 fatty chain in their structure. According to the invention, the term “cellulose-based” polymer refers to any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together by ⁇ -1,4 bonds; the cellulose-based polymers may be unsubstituted celluloses, and/or derivatives of non-ionic celluloses.
  • the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.
  • unsubstituted celluloses including those in a microcrystalline form
  • cellulose ethers include those in a microcrystalline form
  • cellulose ethers include those in a microcrystalline form
  • cellulose ethers include those in a microcrystalline form
  • cellulose ethers include those in a microcrystalline form
  • cellulose ethers include those in a microcrystalline form
  • cellulose ethers include those in a microcrystalline form
  • cellulose ethers include those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.
  • cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ethers-esters are distinguished.
  • non-ionic cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are (C 1 - C 4 )alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C 1 -C 4 )alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C 1 -C 4 )alkyl(C 1 -C 4 )alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
  • C 1 - C 4 )alkylcelluloses such as
  • Scleroglucan is a non-ionic branched homopolysaccharide constituted of ⁇ - D-glucan units.
  • the molecules are constituted of a linear main chain formed from D- glucose units linked via ⁇ (1,3) bonds and of which one in three is linked to a side D- glucose unit via a ⁇ (1,6) bond.
  • These polysaccharides are obtained by fermentation of a medium based on sugar and mineral salts, under the action of a microorganism of Sclerotium type, such as Sclerotium glucanium and Sclerotium rolfsii.
  • Sclerotium type such as Sclerotium glucanium and Sclerotium rolfsii.
  • Scleroglucan is sold, for example, under the name Amigel by the company Alban Muller, or under the name ActigumTM CS by the company Cargill.
  • the polysaccharide(s) other than the cationic polymers are chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides, preferentially from scleroglucan, hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from scleroglucan, in particular Sclerotium rolfsii gum, which is a gum of microbiological origin, produced by the bacterium Sclerotium rolfsii.
  • the total content of the polysaccharide(s) other than the cationic polymers ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of scleroglucan ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Amino silicone The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone.
  • amino silicone denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • the amino silicones that may be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile and cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5 ⁇ 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C, for example from 1 ⁇ 10 -5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the amino silicones according to the invention are not oxyalkylenated.
  • the amino silicone(s) are chosen, alone or as mixtures, from the following compounds: a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 approximately; b) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B): R’ a G 3-a -Si(OSiG 2 ) n -(OSiG b R’ 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a’ -R’ a’ (B) in which: - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a group from among phenyl, OH, C 1 -C 8 alkyl, for example methyl, or C 1 -C 8 alkoxy, for example methoxy; - a and a’, which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, wherein at least one from among a
  • the amino silicone(s) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B).
  • the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to formulae (C), (D), (E), (F), (G), alone or as a mixture, below: 1/ the “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (C): in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; 2/ the silicones of formula (D) below: in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999, particularly
  • the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200000; 3/ the silicones of formula (E) below: in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - R 1 and R 2 , which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R 1 or R 2 denoting an alkoxy radical.
  • the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000, even more particularly from 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.
  • the commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones the structure of which is other than formula (D) or (E).
  • a product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.
  • a product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300® or under the name Belsil® ADM LOG 1.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants.
  • the surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or non-ionic.
  • the number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm.
  • microemulsions with a mean particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included).
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
  • Another silicone corresponding to formula (B) is, for example, the Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning (INCI name: amodimethicone and trideceth- 6 and cetrimonium chloride); 5/ the silicones of formula (G) below: in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms.
  • This radical is preferably branched.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200000.
  • a silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning;
  • - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
  • - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • - Q- is an anion, such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride ion, or an organic acid salt, in particular an acetate;
  • silicones are described, for example, in patent EP-A 0530974; in which: - R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g; f) multiblock polyoxyalkylene amino silicones, of the type (AB) n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block including at least one amine group.
  • Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulae: [-(SiMe 2 O) x SiMe 2 -R-N(R”)- R’-O(C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b -R’-N(H)-R-] or alternatively [-(SiMe 2 O) x SiMe 2 -R-N(R”)-R’-O(C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b -] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R’’ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched
  • the siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.
  • the amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2 meq/g.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 and more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
  • A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - and -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R 1 and R 2 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
  • the amino silicone(s) are preferably of formula (M) in which: - x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000; - y ranges from 1 to 100; - A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and notably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 and -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -; and - R 1 and R 2 independently are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; notably chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R 1 and R 2 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hex
  • a preferred silicone of formula (M) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive; h) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (N), (O) or (P): In formula (N), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55000.
  • amino silicones of formula (N) mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu.
  • Compounds of formula (N) have the INCI name aminopropyl dimethicone.
  • the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.
  • amino silicones of formula (O) mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest, such as mono-aminopropyl terminated dimethicone (INCI name).
  • the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000.
  • amino silicones of formula (P) mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning; i) and mixtures thereof.
  • the amino silicone is preferably chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B), the amino silicones of formula (N), the amino silicones of formula (O), and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from the amino silicones of formula (N), the amino silicones of formula (O) and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone chosen from the amino silicones of formula (N), the amino silicones of formula (O) and mixtures thereof, preferably from the amino silicones of formula (N), more preferentially from aminopropyl dimethicones.
  • the total content of the amino silicone(s) ranges from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the amino silicone(s) (B) and advantageously (N) and/or (O) ranges from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total aminopropyl dimethicone content ranges from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Non-silicone fatty substance The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one non-silicone fatty substance, that is to say one which does not comprise a silicon atom.
  • fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight).
  • the fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon- based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF) or liquid petroleum.
  • the non-silicone fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
  • the non-silicone fatty substance(s) according to the invention are other than fatty acids.
  • the non-silicone fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances.
  • liquid fatty substance means a fatty substance with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from C 6 to C 16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non- silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the C 6 -C 16 liquid hydrocarbons the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include: - branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, - linear C 8 -C 16 alkanes, for example n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ) sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, n-undecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
  • a hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
  • the triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil
  • fluoro oils they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
  • the liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • oleyl alcohol will be used.
  • liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1 -C 26 or branched C 3 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1 -C 26 or branched C 3 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
  • the esters of monoalcohols at least one from among the alcohol and the acid is branched.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecy
  • ethyl and isopropyl palmitates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • the composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugars examples include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the esters may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito- stearate esters.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a liquid monoacid and monoalcohol ester.
  • the solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s -1 .
  • the solid fatty substance(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohol means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • the solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1- docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
  • the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C 9 -C 26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C 9 -C 26 fatty alcohol.
  • these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
  • Esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C 9 -C 26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; C 9 -C 26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C 9 - C 26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
  • a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization.
  • the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance.
  • the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene. Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
  • the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol may also be used.
  • a wax that may also be used is a C 20 -C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
  • Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
  • microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
  • the waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
  • mineral waxes for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite
  • plant waxes for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, car
  • ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
  • the ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R 3 CH(OH)CH(CH 2 OR 2 )(NHCOR 1 ), in which: R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C 16 -C 30 fatty acid; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl) n group, a (galactosyl) m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R 3 denotes a C 15 -C 26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or
  • the ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16 -C 22 fatty acids; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R 3 denotes a saturated linear C 15 group.
  • R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C 12 -C 22 fatty acids
  • R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical
  • 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol
  • 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol 2-N- behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol
  • 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N- stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N- linoleoyldihydros
  • N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
  • the solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl stearyl or cetearyl alcohol, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Butters may also be used.
  • the term “butter” (also referred to as a “pasty fatty substance”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, including at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the butter(s) according to the invention have a starting melting temperature above 25°C and an end melting temperature below 60°C.
  • the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: JUN 15, 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2.
  • mango butter Malignant indica
  • murumuru butter Astrocaryum murumuru
  • kokum butter Garcinia indica
  • ucuuba butter Virola sebifera
  • tucuma butter painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.
  • shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospemum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% fat, which is generally extracted and refined.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, more preferentially chosen from C 6 -C 16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, linear C 8 -C 16 alkanes, monoesters of monoalcohols and mixtures thereof, better still from branched C 11 -C 15 alkanes, linear C 11 -C 15 alkanes, monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof, even better still from isododecane, n-undecane, tridecane, isononyl isononanoate and mixtures thereof.
  • non-silicone fatty substance preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, more prefer
  • the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, better still from 3% to 20% by weight, even better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the liquid non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, better still from 3% to 20% by weight, even better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one polyol, other than the fatty alcohols described above.
  • the polyol(s) are C 3 -C 8 polyols or C 3 -C 8 polyol ethers. They preferably comprise 2 to 4, better still 2 to 3, OH groups. Examples that may be mentioned include: glycerol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, preferably chosen from butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of the polyol(s) ranges from 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 2% to 10% by weight, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and salts thereof may also comprise at least one compound chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), salts thereof and/or mixtures thereof.
  • the alpha-hydroxy acid(s) are preferably chosen from acids comprising from 2 to 7 carbon atoms, better still from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the alpha-hydroxy acid(s) are chosen from those comprising at least 2 COOH functions.
  • the alpha-hydroxy acid(s) are preferably chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from citric acid and salts thereof, such as sodium citrate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alpha-hydroxy acid, a salt thereof and/or mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from citric acid, sodium citrate and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of the alpha-hydroxy acid(s) and/or salts thereof ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous, the water content ranging preferably from 50% to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 60% to 95% by weight, even more preferentially from 65% to 90% by weight, better still from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition according to the invention is acidic, ranging from 1 to 6.5, preferably from 3 to 6.
  • Additives may also contain additives used in cosmetics, other than the ingredients of the invention mentioned above and among which mention may be made of cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, hair loss and/or hair regrowth agents, vitamins including tocopherol and pro-vitamins, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: (a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof, and/or mixtures thereof, chosen from glycine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, polylysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, advantageously, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one associative polyurethane chosen
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: (a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof, and/or mixtures thereof, chosen from glycine, glutamic acid, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one associative polyurethane chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethanes comprising at least one terminal or pendent fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: (a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof, and/or mixtures thereof, chosen from glycine, sodium glutamate, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one associative polyurethane chosen from non-ionic polyether- polyurethanes comprising at least one terminal or pendent fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • a subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, notably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular to said keratin fibres, of a composition as defined above.
  • the composition according to the invention may be applied to wet or dry keratin materials that have optionally been washed, for example with a shampoo.
  • the composition according to the invention is applied to wet keratin materials, in particular wet keratin fibres.
  • the keratin materials can then be rinsed with water, and/or can optionally be washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.
  • the keratin materials are preferably not rinsed after application of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a leave-on product.
  • a subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above for conditioning keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the composition can be used on wet or dry hair, in rinse-off or leave-on mode, and preferably in leave-on mode (that is to say that the keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, are not rinsed after application of the composition).
  • leave-on mode that is to say that the keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, are not rinsed after application of the composition.
  • Example 1 Composition A according to the invention and Comparative Composition B were prepared from the following ingredients: [Table 1] Composition A Composition B (invention) (comparative) Butylene glycol 5.5 5.5 Caprylyl glycol 0.7 0.7 Aminopropyl dimethicone 4.9 4.9 Isododecane 4.0 4.0 Isononyl isononanoate 3.0 3.0 Glycine 1.0 - PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 0.9 0.9 Ether Undecane/tridecane mixture 1.0 1.0 Scleroglucan (sclerotiumgum) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Preserving agents qs qs Water qs 100 qs 100 Compositions which can be used as leave-on hair care compositions are obtained.
  • Composition A and Composition B were applied by half-head to the hair of 6 volunteers (medium-long to long hair, sensitized 3 or 4 (this is the level of damage to the fibre, with natural hair corresponding to a sensitization equal to 0)), on a wet head of hair, previously washed with a shampoo.
  • the compositions are left on the hair for 2 minutes and then the head of hair is dried using a hairdryer (standardized blow drying).
  • the two compositions were evaluated blind by an expert, on the basis of the following criteria: smooth feel (on wet and dry hair), coating (on dry hair), sheen (on dry hair) and ease of combing through the hair (on dry hair).
  • evaluations were carried out after the application of the care composition, on wet hair (before drying with a hairdryer) and on dry hair.
  • Evaluation of the smooth feel criterion To evaluate the smooth feel criterion, the expert takes the lock of hair between the thumb and index finger and slides his or her fingers along the lock from the upper part to the ends. He or she evaluates whether the hair has any bumps or whether the fingers catch on the hair.
  • Evaluation of the coating criterion To evaluate the coating criterion, the expert takes the lock between the thumb and index finger and slides his or her fingers along the lock from the upper part to the ends.
  • a shiny lock is characterized in that it reflects light rays particularly well; it therefore has a particular radiance.
  • Evaluation of the criterion of ease of combing through To evaluate the criterion of ease of combing through, the expert holds the lock in one hand and, with the other hand, passes the fine teeth of a comb from the upper part to the ends. If the comb gets stuck, the expert performs the same gesture using the large teeth of the comb.
  • An easy passage of the comb is characterized in that the comb with fine teeth passes and does not get stuck in the hair.
  • Example 2 Composition C according to the invention was prepared from the following ingredients: [Table 3] Composition C (invention) Butylene glycol 5.5 Caprylyl glycol 0.7 Aminopropyl dimethicone 4.9 Isododecane 4.0 Isononyl isononanoate 3.0 Glycine 1.0 PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis- 0.9 Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether Undecane/tridecane mixture 1.0 Scleroglucan 0.5 Tocopherol 0.25 Citric acid 0.06 Polyquaternium-7 0.0009 Preserving agents qs Water qs 100 A composition which can be used as leave-on hair care composition is obtained.
  • Composition C 6 g of Composition C were applied to a pre-wetted head of hair (sensitized hair) washed with a shampoo. The composition is left on the hair for 2 minutes and then the hair is dried with a hairdryer.
  • Composition C according to the invention has good qualities of use and makes it possible to obtain very good cosmetic properties.
  • the composition according to the invention is easy to apply and to spread on the hair. It has a singular, gliding and melting texture.
  • Composition C very good disentangling of the head of hair is obtained.
  • Composition C also makes it possible to give the hair a smooth feel. It also helps give the hair sheen and manageability (ease of combing).
  • Multi-application copper removal Six locks of hair (Caucasian, sensitized SA20) are previously enriched with copper in a content of about 160 ppm per g of hair. Three of these locks of hair are then treated with Composition C according to the invention. The copper content of the treated locks is then measured and compared with the copper content of the remaining untreated locks of hair (control locks). Protocol for control locks The three control locks undergo the following cycle: The locks of hair are wetted and washed with 0.55 g of DOP shampoo per gram of lock. Then the locks are rinsed with water at 30°C at the rate of 20 passes between the fingers, then dried with a hairdryer for 5 minutes.
  • Protocol for locks treated with Composition C The three locks treated with Composition C undergo the following cycle: 0.15 g of Composition C per gram of lock are applied to each lock. The locks are dried with a hairdryer for 5 minutes. The locks are then wetted and washed with 0.55 g of DOP shampoo per gram of lock. Then the locks are rinsed with water at 35°C at the rate of 20 passes between the fingers, then dried with a hairdryer for 5 minutes. The protocols for the locks treated with Composition C and for the control locks are repeated in order to carry out 10 cycles. At the end of cycles 1, 5 and 10, 20 micrograms of hair are taken from the lock and cut into small pieces for analysis.
  • the copper content of the locks is determined using a spectrometer according to the ICP/OES method. The following results are obtained (average over 3 locks): [Table 4] After 1 After 5 After 10 At T0 cycle cycles cycles Locks treated Copper content with (ppm) per g of 152 ⁇ 26 114 ⁇ 6 101 ⁇ 12 79 ⁇ 9 Composition C hair Percentage decrease - 25% 34% 48% compared to previous cycle Copper content (ppm) per g of 168 ⁇ 72 172 ⁇ 53 145 ⁇ 5 126 ⁇ 14 hair Control locks Percentage decrease - - 14% 25% compared to previous cycle Composition C according to the invention leads to better removal of copper ions, compared to a shampoo alone.
  • the improved removal of copper ions is notable from the first application of Composition C: a 25% decrease in the copper content present in the hair is observed for the locks treated with Composition C according to the invention, whereas no variation is observed for the control locks.
  • the improved removal of copper ions by virtue of Composition C is even more notable after 5 and 10 cycles, compared to the removal observed for a shampoo alone.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof, and/or mixtures thereof; b) at least one associative polyurethane; c) optionally at least one cationic polymer; d) at least one polysaccharide other than the cationic polymers; and e) at least one amino silicone.

Description

DESCRIPTION TITLE: Composition comprising at least one amino acid, at least one associative polyurethane, at least one particular polysaccharide and at least one amino silicone The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an amino acid, an associative polyurethane, a particular polysaccharide and an amino silicone. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, comprising at least one step of applying such a composition to said keratin materials, and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres. Technical field The hair may be damaged and made brittle by external atmospheric agents such as pollution and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, or certain routines, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving, straightening and/or repeated washing. Furthermore, it is known that particles of metal, such as copper, are generally present in water. Thus, on contact with water, for example after bathing, washing and/or rinsing with water, said particles of metal, such as copper, may accumulate on the surface of the keratin material, in particular the keratin fibre such as the hair, or even penetrate the cuticles. The accumulation of these metal particles inside the hair affects the resistance thereof. Because of all these external attacks, the hair can then be damaged and in the long run become dry, rough, brittle and dull. Thus, in order to overcome these disadvantages, it is common practice to employ hair care compositions intended for conditioning the hair by giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular smoothness, sheen, softness to the touch, suppleness and lightness, and also good disentangling properties leading to easy combing and good manageability of the hair, which is thus easier to style. In addition, hair care compositions are increasingly used to combat the accumulation of metals in the hair fibre or to neutralize metal ions. However, these compositions do not sufficiently improve the quality of the fibre in order to make it possible to repair it or to reduce breaking thereof, for example during combing or disentangling. In addition, the conditioning effect obtained using these hair care compositions fades quickly over time. There is therefore still a genuine need to find a means for treating keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which is preferably damaged and/or sensitized, said means being capable of conditioning said materials satisfactorily, of neutralizing metal ions and/or metals, in particular iron, copper and/or calcium, and of maintaining or improving the quality of these materials, thus making it possible to repair them and/or reduce the breakage thereof, for example during combing or disentangling. It has now been discovered that the application to keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, of a composition comprising an amino acid and/or a salt thereof in combination with an associative polyurethane, a polysaccharide other than cationic polymers and an amino silicone makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above, and in particular to neutralize the metal ions and/or metals of the hair and thus to repair and/or prevent the breakage of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, giving keratin materials, including keratin fibres such as hair, in particular excellent cosmetic properties, in particular lightness, softness, a smooth feel and sheen, and also improved disentangling and combing. In addition, the texture of the composition thus prepared is particularly pleasant, light and close to that of a cream; it glides and is easy to apply and to distribute on the hair; it is also melting and disappears rapidly in the head of hair after application. Disclosure of the invention A subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof, and/or mixtures thereof; (b) at least one associative polyurethane; (c) optionally at least one cationic polymer; (d) at least one polysaccharide other than the cationic polymers; and (e) at least one amino silicone. It has been found that hair treated with the composition according to the invention has good cosmetic properties, in particular as regards lightness, softness, smooth feel, sheen, and ease of disentangling and combing. Moreover, it has been observed that the metal ions and/or metals accumulated in the hair thus treated is neutralized, thereby helping to reduce the breakage thereof. Moreover, the composition according to the invention has good working qualities. It is easy to apply and distribute over keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres. It has a pleasant texture. A subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying the composition according to the invention to said keratin materials, notably keratin fibres. A subject of the invention is also the use of the above composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair. Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become still more clearly apparent on reading the description and the example which follow. In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith; - the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included; - the term “keratin materials” denotes keratin fibres, and in particular the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes or the scalp; - according to the present patent application, the term “keratin fibres” denotes human keratin fibres and more particularly the hair; - the term “silicone” means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and constituted essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols. Amino acid The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino acid, a salt thereof, and/or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the amino acid is chosen from natural amino acids, synthetic amino acids, in their L, D or racemic form, and mixtures thereof, and comprises at least one acid function chosen from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Said amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form. The amino acid(s) are preferably chosen from neutral amino acids, acidic amino acids, and mixtures thereof. The term “neutral amino acids” is intended to mean amino acids which have a pH, at ambient temperature (25°C), in water of inclusively between 5 and 7. The term “acidic amino acids” is intended to mean amino acids which have a pH, at ambient temperature, in water of less than 5. The amino acid(s) may be natural or synthetic α-amino acids comprising a carbon atom C bearing an amine group, a carboxyl group, a hydrogen atom and a side group which may be a hydrogen atom (in the case of glycine), any other monovalent organic group or a ring comprising said carbon atom C, the nitrogen atom of said amine group and several additional carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 4 additional carbon atoms. The side groups may notably be alkyl groups (in the case of alanine, valine, leucine or isoleucine), substituted alkyl groups (in the case of threonine, serine, methionine, cysteine, asparagine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glutamine, arginine and lysine), arylalkyl groups (in the case of phenylalanine and tryptophan), substituted arylalkyl groups (in the case of tyrosine) or heteroalkyl groups (in the case of histidine). The side group may in particular be a 5-membered ring comprising said carbon atom C, the nitrogen atom of said amine group and three additional carbon atoms, as in the case of proline. These α-amino acids are notably listed in Harper et al. (1977) Review of Physiological Chemistry, 16th edition, Lange Medical Publications, pages 21-24. The term “synthetic α-amino acid” means an α-amino acid which is not incorporated into a protein under the control of mRNA, for instance a fluorinated α- amino acid such as fluoroalanine or trimethylsilylalanine, or an α-amino acid such as:
Figure imgf000005_0001
where n1 is an integer from 1 to 6 and n2 is an integer from 1 to 12. Synthetic amino acids are, furthermore, described in Williams (Ed.), Synthesis of Optically Active α-Amino Acids, Pergamon Press (1989); Evans et al., J. Amer. Chem. Soc.112, 4011-4030 (1990); PU et al., J. Amer. Chem. Soc.56, 1280- 1283 (1991); on Williams et al., J. Amer. Chem. Soc.113, 9276-9286 (1991). Advantageously, the amino acid is chosen from glycine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, polylysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N- phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, the term “amino acid salts” is understood to mean salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium and calcium salts and zinc salts. Preferably, the amino acid(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, glutamic acid, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from glycine, sodium glutamate, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from glycine and arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the total content of the amino acid(s), a salt thereof and/or mixtures thereof ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of the amino acid(s), a salt thereof and/or mixtures thereof is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of glycine and/or arginine and/or salts thereof ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of glycine and/or arginine and/or salts thereof is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of glycine and/or salts thereof ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of glycine and/or salts thereof is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Associative polyurethane The composition according to the invention comprises at least one associative polyurethane. It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone. The associative polyurethanes according to the invention preferably comprise at least one fatty chain of at least 8 carbon atoms. They are not siliconized. This type of polymer is capable of interacting with itself or with particular compounds such as surfactants to lead to thickening of the medium. The associative polyurethane may be chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethanes, anionic associative polyurethanes, cationic associative polyurethanes, amphoteric or zwitterionic associative polyurethanes and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from non-ionic associative polyurethanes, anionic associative polyurethanes and cationic associative polyurethanes and mixtures thereof. Anionic As anionic associative polyurethanes according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of an acrylic terpolymer which is soluble or swellable in alkalis. It is characterized in that it comprises: a) about 20% to 70% by weight, preferably 25% to 55% by weight, of an α,β- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid; b) about 20% to 80% by weight, preferably 30% to 65% by weight, of a non- surfactant monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than a) and c) about 0.5% to 60% by weight, preferably 10% to 50% by weight, of a non- ionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a monohydric non-ionic surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate. The acrylic terpolymer defined above is obtained by aqueous emulsion copolymerization of the components a), b) and c) which is entirely common and described in patent application EP-A-0173109. As examples of anionic associative polyurethanes that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made notably of methacrylic or acrylic acid copolymers comprising at least one C1-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate unit and a urethane unit substituted with a fatty chain. Mention may be made in particular of the methacrylic acid/methyl methacrylate/methylstyreneisopropyl isocyanate/polyethoxylated behenyl alcohol (including 40 ethoxy units) copolymer sold under the brand name Viscophobe® DB 1000 sold by the company Union Carbide. Non-ionic The non-ionic associative polyurethanes used in the present invention may be polyether-polyurethanes comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks most usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences. Preferably, the polyether-polyurethanes include at least two hydrocarbon- based lipophilic chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon- based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block. The polyether-polyurethanes may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers. The fatty-chain non-ionic polyether-polyurethanes may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylenated chain including from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The non-ionic polyether-polyurethanes include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name. By extension, also included among the fatty-chain non-ionic polyether- polyurethanes are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds. As examples of fatty-chain non-ionic polyether-polyurethanes, use may also be made of Rheolate 205 containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184, Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 from the company Röhm & Haas (Aculyn 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4- cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)). Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210 containing a C12-C14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212 containing a C18 alkyl chain, from Akzo. The product DW 1206B from Röhm & Haas bearing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used. Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, notably in water or in an aqueous/alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Röhm & Haas. The polyether-polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention may be, in particular, those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and FK. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993). As preferred examples of non-ionic associative polyurethanes, mention may be made of polyether-polyurethanes that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. Such polyether-polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company Röhm & Haas under the names Aculyn® 46 and Aculyn® 44. Aculyn® 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%), and Aculyn® 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%). Mention may also be made of the polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 240 moles of ethylene oxide, of polyoxyethylenated decyltetradecyl alcohol having 20 units of ethylene oxide and of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), such as that sold under the name Adekanol GT-730 by the company Adeka USA Corporation (INCI name: Copolymer PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether). Cationic The cationic associative polyurethanes are preferably chosen from cationic associative polyurethanes, the family of which has been described by the applicant in French patent application No.0009609; it can be represented by general formula (Ia) below: R-X-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L’-(P')p-X’-R’ (Ia) in which: - R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; - X and X’, which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L”; - L, L’ and L”, which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; - P and P’, which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group; - Y represents a hydrophilic group; - r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive; - n, m and p are each, independently of each other, between 0 and 1000 inclusive; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group. Preferably, the cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) comprise, as the only hydrophobic groups, the groups R and R’ at the chain ends. One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) described above, in which: - R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group, - X and X’ each represent a group L”, - n and p are integers that are between 1 and 1000 inclusive, and - L, L’, L”, P, P’, Y and m have the meaning given above. Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which: - the fact that n and p are 0 is intended to mean that these polymers do not comprise units derived from a monomer containing an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation. - the protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions, at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of the type RQ or R’Q, in which R and R’ are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc. Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which: R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X’ both independently represent a group including a quaternary amine, n and p are zero, and L, L’, Y and m have the meaning indicated above. The number-average molecular mass of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500000, in particular between 1000 and 400000 and ideally between 1000 and 300000. The term “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When the hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical, it includes at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group originates from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene. When X and/or X’ denote(s) a group including a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and/or X’ may represent one of the following formulae:
Figure imgf000012_0002
in which: R2 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P; R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical or an aryl radical, it being possible for at least one of the carbon atoms to be replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P; A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate. The groups L, L’ and L” represent a group of formula:
Figure imgf000012_0001
in which: Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, it being possible for one or more of the carbon atoms to be replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P. The groups P and P’ comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae:
Figure imgf000013_0001
in which: R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined previously; R6, R8 and R9 have the same meanings as R1 and R3 defined previously; R10 represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P; and A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate. As regards the meaning of Y, the term “hydrophilic group” means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group. By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol. When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide). The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds bearing functions containing labile hydrogen. The functions containing labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. In the present invention, the term “polyurethanes” encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and also copolymers thereof. A first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound including at least one unit bearing an amine function. This compound may be multifunctional, but preferentially the compound is difunctional, that is to say that this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine, or thiol function. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may also be used. As mentioned above, this compound may include more than one unit containing an amine function. In this case, it is a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function. Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulae: HZ-(P)n-ZH, or HZ-(P’)p-ZH in which Z, P, P’, n and p are as defined above. Examples of compounds containing an amine function that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N- sulfoethyldiethanolamine. The second compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=N-R4-N=C=O in which R4 is as defined above. By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate. A third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the hydrophobic end groups of the polymer of formula (Ia). This compound is constituted of a hydrophobic group and a function containing labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function. By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as, in particular, stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. When this compound comprises a polymer chain, it may be, for example, α-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene. The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound including at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced via the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R’Q, in which R and R’ are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc. The cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound is low. The functions containing labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing labile hydrogen. By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol. When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide). The hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (Ia) is optional. Specifically, the units containing a quaternary or protonated amine function may be sufficient to provide the solubility or water-dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution. Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes including such a group are, however, preferred. Advantageously, the associative polyurethanes are chosen from polyurethanes comprising at least one terminal or pendent fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, the associative polyurethane(s) are chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethanes, preferably from those comprising at least one terminal or pendent fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, more preferentially from polyether-polyurethanes, even more preferentially from the copolymer PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, the HDI/HMDI/SMDI/IPDI/polyurethane copolymer, the PPG-51/SMDI copolymer, the PPG-12/SMD copolymer, the HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosslinked copolymer, the PEG-8/SMDI copolymer and mixtures thereof, better still from the copolymer PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis- Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether. Advantageously, the total content of the associative polyurethane(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of the non-ionic associative polyurethane(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of the non-ionic associative polyurethane(s) comprising at least one terminal or pendent fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polymer The composition according to the invention optionally comprises at least one cationic polymer other than the associative polyurethanes described above. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer other than the associative polyurethanes described above. The cationic polymer is not a silicone polymer, i.e. it does not contain silicon atoms. The term “cationic polymer” means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units including primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto. The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3×106 approximately. Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae:
Figure imgf000017_0001
in which: - R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters. Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of: - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by Hercules, - copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba Geigy, - the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by Hercules, - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2077143 and 2393573; - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, - vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP; - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP; - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1- C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba; (2) cationic polysaccharides, particularly cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums. The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1492597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4131576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch. Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3589578 and US 4031307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride). Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia; (3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers; (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized; (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents; Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz; (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc, or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette »01 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer; (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):
Figure imgf000021_0001
in which - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; - R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; - R10 and R11, independently of one another, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11, independently of one another, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group; - Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. Mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco, and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, for example Polyquaternium-7. These copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts and of acrylamide may be sold in particular under the name Merquat 550, Merquat 7SPR, Merquat 550PR or Flocare C107; (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:
Figure imgf000022_0001
in which: - R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals; or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non- nitrogen heteroatom; or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17- D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; - A1 and B1 represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that A1, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC- (CH2)p- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting: a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical - CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100000. Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
Figure imgf000023_0001
in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is the one for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature; (9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V): in which: - R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or - CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, wherein R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom and - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34, - X- denotes an anion such as a halide, - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O- CH2-CH2-. Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol; (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF; (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary; (12) polymers including in their structure: (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
Figure imgf000024_0001
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
Figure imgf000024_0002
In other words, these polymers may be particularly chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide. Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B). These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium. The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3000000 g/mol, preferably from 10000 to 1000000 and more particularly from 100000 to 500000 g/mol. The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010. Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives. Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (1), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above. Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the cationic polymer(s), when they are present in the composition, are chosen from cationic polysaccharides, cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium and mixtures thereof, preferentially from cationic galactomannan gums, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from cationic guar gums, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide and mixtures thereof, better still from copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the total content of the cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of the cationic polymer(s) chosen from cationic polysaccharides, cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of the cationic polymer(s) chosen from cationic guar gums, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polysaccharide other than cationic polymers The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide other than cationic polymers, preferably chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides. The polysaccharides other than the cationic polymers are not silicone polymers. The non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from celluloses, starches, galactomannans, scleroglucan and non-ionic derivatives thereof, notably ethers or esters thereof. These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. Mention may be made, as physical treatment, of the temperature and mention may be made, as chemical treatment, of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions, in so far as these treatments make it possible to give polymers that are non-ionic. As galactomannans that may be used, mention may be made of non-ionic guar gums which can be modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl groups, notably hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum. Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company Rhodia Chimie. The botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch. The starches may be chemically or physically modified, notably by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments. The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, notably such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato. The non-ionic polysaccharides may also be cellulose-based polymers not including a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure. According to the invention, the term “cellulose-based” polymer refers to any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together by β-1,4 bonds; the cellulose-based polymers may be unsubstituted celluloses, and/or derivatives of non-ionic celluloses. Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ethers-esters are distinguished. Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are (C1- C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses. Scleroglucan is a non-ionic branched homopolysaccharide constituted of β- D-glucan units. The molecules are constituted of a linear main chain formed from D- glucose units linked via β(1,3) bonds and of which one in three is linked to a side D- glucose unit via a β(1,6) bond.
Figure imgf000028_0001
These polysaccharides are obtained by fermentation of a medium based on sugar and mineral salts, under the action of a microorganism of Sclerotium type, such as Sclerotium glucanium and Sclerotium rolfsii. A more complete description of scleroglucans and of their preparation may be found in US 3301848. Scleroglucan is sold, for example, under the name Amigel by the company Alban Muller, or under the name Actigum™ CS by the company Cargill. As other polysaccharides according to the invention, mention may also be made of xanthan, gum Arabic and modified starch (hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate). Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) other than the cationic polymers are chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides, preferentially from scleroglucan, hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from scleroglucan, in particular Sclerotium rolfsii gum, which is a gum of microbiological origin, produced by the bacterium Sclerotium rolfsii. Advantageously, the total content of the polysaccharide(s) other than the cationic polymers ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of scleroglucan ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amino silicone The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone. The term “amino silicone” denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. The amino silicones that may be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile and cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5 × 10-6 to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C, for example from 1 × 10-5 to 1 m2/s. Preferably, the amino silicones according to the invention are not oxyalkylenated. Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen, alone or as mixtures, from the following compounds: a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):
Figure imgf000030_0001
in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 approximately; b) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B): R’aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR’2-b)m-O-SiG3-a’-R’a’ (B) in which: - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a group from among phenyl, OH, C1-C8 alkyl, for example methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy; - a and a’, which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, wherein at least one from among a and a’ is equal to zero, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; - R’, which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula - CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the following groups: -N(R”)2; -N+(R”)3 A-; -NR”-Q- N(R”)2 and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A-, in which R”, which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, notably a halide anion such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B). Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to formulae (C), (D), (E), (F), (G), alone or as a mixture, below: 1/ the “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (C):
Figure imgf000031_0001
in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; 2/ the silicones of formula (D) below:
Figure imgf000031_0002
in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999, particularly from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 1000, particularly from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical. Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200000; 3/ the silicones of formula (E) below:
Figure imgf000032_0001
in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - R1 and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical. Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000, even more particularly from 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000. The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones the structure of which is other than formula (D) or (E). A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652. A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300® or under the name Belsil® ADM LOG 1. When these amino silicones are used, their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion is particularly advantageous. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or non-ionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, notably as amino silicones of formula (E), use is made of microemulsions with a mean particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker; 4/ the silicones of formula (F) below:
Figure imgf000033_0001
in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000. Another silicone corresponding to formula (B) is, for example, the Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning (INCI name: amodimethicone and trideceth- 6 and cetrimonium chloride); 5/ the silicones of formula (G) below:
Figure imgf000034_0001
in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200000. A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning; c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):
Figure imgf000034_0002
- R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond; - Q- is an anion, such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride ion, or an organic acid salt, in particular an acetate; - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50. Such amino silicones are notably described in patent US 4185087. d) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I):
Figure imgf000035_0002
in which: - R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond; - R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7; - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate; - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent EP-A 0530974;
Figure imgf000035_0001
in which: - R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g; f) multiblock polyoxyalkylene amino silicones, of the type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block including at least one amine group. Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulae: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R”)- R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R’-N(H)-R-] or alternatively [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R”)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R’’ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a radical CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2-; preferentially, R denotes a radical CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2-; - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2- C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R’ denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a radical CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2-; preferentially, R’ denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-. The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%. The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2 meq/g. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 and more particularly between 10000 and 200000. Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A- 843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive; (g) the amino silicones of formulae (L) and (M):
Figure imgf000037_0001
in which: - R, R’ and R’’, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group; - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000;
Figure imgf000037_0002
in which: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-. Preferably, R1 and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. The amino silicone(s) are preferably of formula (M) in which: - x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000; - y ranges from 1 to 100; - A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and notably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and - R1 and R2 independently are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; notably chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. A preferred silicone of formula (M) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive; h) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (N), (O) or (P):
Figure imgf000039_0001
In formula (N), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55000. As examples of amino silicones of formula (N), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu. Compounds of formula (N) have the INCI name aminopropyl dimethicone. In formula (O), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000. By way of example of amino silicones of formula (O), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest, such as mono-aminopropyl terminated dimethicone (INCI name). In formula (P), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000. As an example of amino silicones of formula (P), mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning; i) and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the amino silicone is preferably chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B), the amino silicones of formula (N), the amino silicones of formula (O), and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from the amino silicones of formula (N), the amino silicones of formula (O) and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone chosen from the amino silicones of formula (N), the amino silicones of formula (O) and mixtures thereof, preferably from the amino silicones of formula (N), more preferentially from aminopropyl dimethicones. Advantageously, the total content of the amino silicone(s) ranges from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of the amino silicone(s) (B) and advantageously (N) and/or (O) ranges from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total aminopropyl dimethicone content ranges from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-silicone fatty substance The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one non-silicone fatty substance, that is to say one which does not comprise a silicon atom. The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). The fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon- based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF) or liquid petroleum. The non-silicone fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated. Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substance(s) according to the invention are other than fatty acids. The non-silicone fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances. The term “liquid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa). For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa). More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non- silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof. It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. As regards the C6-C16 liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include: - branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, - linear C8-C16 alkanes, for example n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, n-undecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof. The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof. A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene. The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof. As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M. The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used. As regards the liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid is branched. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2- hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof. The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described previously. Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose. The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. The esters may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito- stearate esters. More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or di- oleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleopalmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates, and mixtures thereof. An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a liquid monoacid and monoalcohol ester. The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1. The solid fatty substance(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof. The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1- docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol). Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. The solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol. Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids. Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9- C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof. Mention may also be made of C20-C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW. Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene. Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene. The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used. A wax that may also be used is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen. It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders. The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof. The ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification. The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which: R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid. The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group. Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group. Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon-based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group. As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N- palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N- behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3- diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N- stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N- behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N- (2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N- cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used. The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl stearyl or cetearyl alcohol, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Butters may also be used. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also referred to as a “pasty fatty substance”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, including at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a starting melting temperature above 25°C and an end melting temperature below 60°C. Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: JUN 15, 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)). Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter. An example of a preferred butter is shea butter. In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospemum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% fat, which is generally extracted and refined. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, more preferentially chosen from C6-C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from branched C8-C16 alkanes, linear C8-C16 alkanes, monoesters of monoalcohols and mixtures thereof, better still from branched C11-C15 alkanes, linear C11-C15 alkanes, monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof, even better still from isododecane, n-undecane, tridecane, isononyl isononanoate and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, better still from 3% to 20% by weight, even better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of the liquid non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, better still from 3% to 20% by weight, even better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyols The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one polyol, other than the fatty alcohols described above. Preferably, the polyol(s) are C3-C8 polyols or C3-C8 polyol ethers. They preferably comprise 2 to 4, better still 2 to 3, OH groups. Examples that may be mentioned include: glycerol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, preferably chosen from butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the total content of the polyol(s) ranges from 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 2% to 10% by weight, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and salts thereof The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one compound chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), salts thereof and/or mixtures thereof. The alpha-hydroxy acid(s) are preferably chosen from acids comprising from 2 to 7 carbon atoms, better still from 3 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid(s) are chosen from those comprising at least 2 COOH functions. The alpha-hydroxy acid(s) are preferably chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from citric acid and salts thereof, such as sodium citrate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alpha-hydroxy acid, a salt thereof and/or mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from citric acid, sodium citrate and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the total content of the alpha-hydroxy acid(s) and/or salts thereof ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous, the water content ranging preferably from 50% to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 60% to 95% by weight, even more preferentially from 65% to 90% by weight, better still from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the pH of the composition according to the invention is acidic, ranging from 1 to 6.5, preferably from 3 to 6. Additives The composition according to the invention may also contain additives used in cosmetics, other than the ingredients of the invention mentioned above and among which mention may be made of cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, hair loss and/or hair regrowth agents, vitamins including tocopherol and pro-vitamins, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: (a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof, and/or mixtures thereof, chosen from glycine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, polylysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, advantageously, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one associative polyurethane chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethanes, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) optionally at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic polysaccharides, cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) at least one polysaccharide other than cationic polymers, chosen from non- ionic polysaccharides, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (e) at least one amino silicone chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B) as defined above, the amino silicones of formula (N) as defined above, the amino silicones of formula (O) as defined above and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferentially, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: (a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof, and/or mixtures thereof, chosen from glycine, glutamic acid, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one associative polyurethane chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethanes comprising at least one terminal or pendent fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) optionally at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) at least one polysaccharide other than the cationic polymers, chosen from scleroglucan, hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (e) at least one amino silicone chosen from the amino silicones of formula (N) as defined above, the amino silicones of formula (O) as defined above and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Better still, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: (a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof, and/or mixtures thereof, chosen from glycine, sodium glutamate, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one associative polyurethane chosen from non-ionic polyether- polyurethanes comprising at least one terminal or pendent fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) optionally, at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic guar gums, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) at least one polysaccharide other than cationic polymers, chosen from scleroglucan, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (e) at least one amino silicone chosen from aminopropyl dimethicones, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, notably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular to said keratin fibres, of a composition as defined above. The composition according to the invention may be applied to wet or dry keratin materials that have optionally been washed, for example with a shampoo. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to wet keratin materials, in particular wet keratin fibres. The keratin materials can then be rinsed with water, and/or can optionally be washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry. The keratin materials are preferably not rinsed after application of the composition. The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a leave-on product. A subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above for conditioning keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair. The composition can be used on wet or dry hair, in rinse-off or leave-on mode, and preferably in leave-on mode (that is to say that the keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, are not rinsed after application of the composition). The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples In the examples which follow and unless otherwise indicated, all the amounts are indicated as percentage by mass of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 Composition A according to the invention and Comparative Composition B were prepared from the following ingredients: [Table 1] Composition A Composition B (invention) (comparative) Butylene glycol 5.5 5.5 Caprylyl glycol 0.7 0.7 Aminopropyl dimethicone 4.9 4.9 Isododecane 4.0 4.0 Isononyl isononanoate 3.0 3.0 Glycine 1.0 - PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 0.9 0.9 Ether Undecane/tridecane mixture 1.0 1.0 Scleroglucan (sclerotiumgum) 0.5 0.5 Preserving agents qs qs Water qs 100 qs 100 Compositions which can be used as leave-on hair care compositions are obtained. 3 g of Composition A and Composition B were applied by half-head to the hair of 6 volunteers (medium-long to long hair, sensitized 3 or 4 (this is the level of damage to the fibre, with natural hair corresponding to a sensitization equal to 0)), on a wet head of hair, previously washed with a shampoo. The compositions are left on the hair for 2 minutes and then the head of hair is dried using a hairdryer (standardized blow drying). The two compositions were evaluated blind by an expert, on the basis of the following criteria: smooth feel (on wet and dry hair), coating (on dry hair), sheen (on dry hair) and ease of combing through the hair (on dry hair). These evaluations were carried out after the application of the care composition, on wet hair (before drying with a hairdryer) and on dry hair. Evaluation of the smooth feel criterion To evaluate the smooth feel criterion, the expert takes the lock of hair between the thumb and index finger and slides his or her fingers along the lock from the upper part to the ends. He or she evaluates whether the hair has any bumps or whether the fingers catch on the hair. Evaluation of the coating criterion To evaluate the coating criterion, the expert takes the lock between the thumb and index finger and slides his or her fingers along the lock from the upper part to the ends. He or she evaluates the presence of a coating (presence of product) on the fibre; the more the fibre is coated, the more product has been deposited, and in the present case, the more gliding the feel due to the presence of silicone. Evaluation of the sheen criterion To evaluate the sheen criterion, the expert wraps the lock of hair around two fingers, pulling on it enough so that it is made taut, then places himself or herself under a standardized light (light box) and tilts the lock at different angles to visually judge the level of sheen. A shiny lock is characterized in that it reflects light rays particularly well; it therefore has a particular radiance. Evaluation of the criterion of ease of combing through To evaluate the criterion of ease of combing through, the expert holds the lock in one hand and, with the other hand, passes the fine teeth of a comb from the upper part to the ends. If the comb gets stuck, the expert performs the same gesture using the large teeth of the comb. An easy passage of the comb is characterized in that the comb with fine teeth passes and does not get stuck in the hair. The following results were obtained: [Table 2] Invention > Invention = Invention < Criteria comparative comparative comparative Smooth feel – wet hair 5 1 0 Smooth feel – dry hair 6 0 0 Coating – dry hair 4 2 0 Sheen – dry hair 5 1 0 Ease of combing 4 2 0 through – dry hair It is thus found that Composition A according to the invention makes it possible to obtain cosmetic properties which are significantly better in terms of sheen, coating of the fibre and ease of combing through on dry hair, and in terms of its smooth feel nature on dry and wet hair, compared to Comparative Composition B. Example 2 Composition C according to the invention was prepared from the following ingredients: [Table 3] Composition C (invention) Butylene glycol 5.5 Caprylyl glycol 0.7 Aminopropyl dimethicone 4.9 Isododecane 4.0 Isononyl isononanoate 3.0 Glycine 1.0 PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis- 0.9 Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether Undecane/tridecane mixture 1.0 Scleroglucan 0.5 Tocopherol 0.25 Citric acid 0.06 Polyquaternium-7 0.0009 Preserving agents qs Water qs 100 A composition which can be used as leave-on hair care composition is obtained. 6 g of Composition C were applied to a pre-wetted head of hair (sensitized hair) washed with a shampoo. The composition is left on the hair for 2 minutes and then the hair is dried with a hairdryer. Composition C according to the invention has good qualities of use and makes it possible to obtain very good cosmetic properties. In particular, the composition according to the invention is easy to apply and to spread on the hair. It has a singular, gliding and melting texture. By virtue of Composition C, very good disentangling of the head of hair is obtained. Composition C also makes it possible to give the hair a smooth feel. It also helps give the hair sheen and manageability (ease of combing). Multi-application copper removal Six locks of hair (Caucasian, sensitized SA20) are previously enriched with copper in a content of about 160 ppm per g of hair. Three of these locks of hair are then treated with Composition C according to the invention. The copper content of the treated locks is then measured and compared with the copper content of the remaining untreated locks of hair (control locks). Protocol for control locks The three control locks undergo the following cycle: The locks of hair are wetted and washed with 0.55 g of DOP shampoo per gram of lock. Then the locks are rinsed with water at 30°C at the rate of 20 passes between the fingers, then dried with a hairdryer for 5 minutes. Protocol for locks treated with Composition C The three locks treated with Composition C undergo the following cycle: 0.15 g of Composition C per gram of lock are applied to each lock. The locks are dried with a hairdryer for 5 minutes. The locks are then wetted and washed with 0.55 g of DOP shampoo per gram of lock. Then the locks are rinsed with water at 35°C at the rate of 20 passes between the fingers, then dried with a hairdryer for 5 minutes. The protocols for the locks treated with Composition C and for the control locks are repeated in order to carry out 10 cycles. At the end of cycles 1, 5 and 10, 20 micrograms of hair are taken from the lock and cut into small pieces for analysis. The copper content of the locks is determined using a spectrometer according to the ICP/OES method. The following results are obtained (average over 3 locks): [Table 4] After 1 After 5 After 10 At T0 cycle cycles cycles Locks treated Copper content with (ppm) per g of 152 ± 26 114 ± 6 101 ± 12 79 ± 9 Composition C hair Percentage decrease - 25% 34% 48% compared to previous cycle Copper content (ppm) per g of 168 ± 72 172 ± 53 145 ± 5 126 ± 14 hair Control locks Percentage decrease - - 14% 25% compared to previous cycle Composition C according to the invention leads to better removal of copper ions, compared to a shampoo alone. The improved removal of copper ions is notable from the first application of Composition C: a 25% decrease in the copper content present in the hair is observed for the locks treated with Composition C according to the invention, whereas no variation is observed for the control locks. The improved removal of copper ions by virtue of Composition C is even more notable after 5 and 10 cycles, compared to the removal observed for a shampoo alone.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof, and/or mixtures thereof; (b) at least one associative polyurethane; (c) optionally at least one cationic polymer; (d) at least one polysaccharide other than the cationic polymers; and (e) at least one amino silicone. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the amino acid(s) are chosen from glycine, glutamic acid, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from glycine, sodium glutamate, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from glycine and arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof. 3. Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the amino acid(s), a salt thereof and/or mixtures thereof, preferably glycine and/or arginine and/or salts thereof and/or mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably, from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of the amino acid(s), a salt thereof and/or mixtures thereof, preferably glycine and/or arginine and/or salts thereof and/or mixtures thereof, is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the associative polyurethane(s) are chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethanes, preferably from those comprising at least one terminal or pendent fatty chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the associative polyurethanes(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from polymers of the following families: - homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae:
Figure imgf000063_0001
in which: - R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide; - cationic polysaccharides; - alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers; - quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole; preferably from cationic polysaccharides, cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium and mixtures thereof, preferentially from cationic galactomannan gums, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from cationic guar gums, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide and mixtures thereof, better still from copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, and mixtures thereof. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide(s) other than the cationic polymers are chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides, preferentially from scleroglucan, hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from scleroglucan. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the polysaccharide(s) other than the cationic polymers ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amino silicone(s) are chosen from: - the amino silicones of formula (A) below:
Figure imgf000064_0001
in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 approximately; - the amino silicones of formula (B) below: R’aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR’2-b)m-O-SiG3-a’-R’a’ (B) in which: - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a group from among phenyl, OH, C1-C8 alkyl, for example methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy; - a and a’, which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, wherein at least one from among a and a’ is equal to zero, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; - R’, which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula - CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the following groups: -N(R”)2; -N+(R”)3 A-; -NR”-Q- N(R”)2 and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A-, in which R”, which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, notably a halide anion such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide; - the amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):
Figure imgf000065_0001
in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond; - Q- is an anion, such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride ion, or an organic acid salt, in particular an acetate; - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50; - the silicones comprising a quaternary ammonium, of formula (I):
Figure imgf000066_0001
in which: - R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond; - R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7; - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate; - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100; - the amino silicones of formula (J):
Figure imgf000067_0001
in which: - R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g; - the multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB)n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block including at least one amine group; - the amino silicones of formula (L):
Figure imgf000067_0002
in which: - R, R’ and R’’, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group; - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000; - the amino silicones of formula (M):
Figure imgf000068_0001
in which: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; - the amino silicones of formula (N):
Figure imgf000068_0002
(N), in which the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55000; - the amino silicones of formula (O): (O), in which the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000; - the amino silicones of formula (P):
Figure imgf000069_0001
in which the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000; - and mixtures thereof; preferably from the amino silicones of formula (N), the amino silicones of formula (O) and mixtures thereof, preferentially from the amino silicones of formula (N). 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the amino silicone(s) ranges from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, more preferentially chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from branched C8-C16 alkanes, linear C8-C16 alkanes, monoesters of monoalcohols and mixtures thereof, better still from branched C11-C15 alkanes, linear C11-C15 alkanes, monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one polyol. 14. Process for treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising the application to said materials of the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims. 15. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the keratin materials, in particular the keratin fibres, are not rinsed after application of the composition. 16. Use of the composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 13 for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
PCT/EP2024/053191 2023-02-08 2024-02-08 Composition comprising at least one amino acid, at least one associative polyurethane, at least one particular polysaccharide and at least one amino silicone WO2024165675A1 (en)

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