WO2024099617A1

WO2024099617A1 - Compositions for use in personal care products

Info

Publication number: WO2024099617A1
Application number: PCT/EP2023/075309
Authority: WO
Inventors: Bernard Cleenewerck
Original assignee: Bc International Consulting
Priority date: 2022-11-07
Filing date: 2023-09-14
Publication date: 2024-05-16

Abstract

A composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 75.0 to 97.5 wt. % of a glyceride mixture, and from 2.5 to 25.0 wt. % of a fraction of unsaponifiables, wherein said fraction 5 of unsaponifiables is at least 70 wt. % of shea origin and wherein the composition is further characterized by, an iodine value (IV) of greater than 57, and a melting point of less than 35°C, and wherein the glyceride mixture, relative to the total weight of the glyceride mixture, is characterized by a content of diglyceride and monoglyceride, 10 together (DG + MG), of more than 25.0 wt. %, and in a weight ratio DG/MG of at least 2.20.

Description

Compositions for use in personal care products

The aim of the present invention is to provide a composition comprising both glycerides and an unsaponifiable fraction, mainly derived from shea, which composition has a melting temperature below body temperature and is characterized by an improved emulsifying capacity. These properties should allow increased levels of shea butter and derivatives of shea butter to be incorporated into personal care products and thus take maximum advantage of the protective properties that shea products have to offer. The invention also relates to a method of producing such composition. Finally, the invention also relates to the use of the composition and to care products in which said composition is used.

1. Background of the Invention.

The use of shea products in cosmetics is well known. Especially shea butter and its liquid olein fraction are widely used in products such as skin creams, ointments, lotions, massage oil, sun creams, shampoos, cleansing oils, lipsticks, etc... Shea butter contains an unsaponifiable fraction, rich in triterpene alcohols and triterpene esters, which have a hydrating and soothing effect on the skin. This can prevent skin aging. It is therefore advisable to aim for high levels of shea ingredients when formulating a product for use in cosmetics, and in particular for skin care. However, the amount that can be used depends on several factors. The main factors are the nature of the intended end product, the nature of the shea ingredient and finally the nature of the process used to manufacture the care product.

With regard to the nature of the end product for body care, a distinction can be made between a category of lighter products, sometimes referred to as a lotion or a milk, and another category of heavier, richer products such as creams or ointments. The lighter products are characterized by their lighter, thin- liquid consistency, high water content and limited fat content. They mainly contain liquid oils. The light products do not feel very greasy and are quickly absorbed by the skin. They are mainly used by people with normal to slightly dry skin. Their effect is soothing, hydrating, cleansing and healing. Products, such as lotions or body milk, are usually sold in tubes.

The heavy or rich products, such as creams, ointments and balms, are viscous to semi-solid. They are characterized by a high fat content and less water. They are absorbed less quickly and form a more long-lasting barrier against dehydration. They are frequently used by people with a dry to very dry skin and especially in the winter period when people suffer more from dry skin. Some heavier types are also used as a night cream because they have more time to be absorbed without being disturbing. Their effect is soothing, moisture-regulating, cleansing and healing. They are usually sold in jars.

In certain cases, the care product can also be completely solid, as it is the case e.g. for lipstick. It goes without saying that in this case solid fats will be chosen, which have sometimes been subjected to hydrogenation.

The lighter products have the disadvantage that they can only contain limited amounts of shea fat, while the heavier products have the disadvantage of being absorbed slowly by the skin, and therefore feel greasy.

A solution to this problem can partly be found in the nature of the shea ingredients used. Shea fat, also called shea butter, is usually obtained by pressing shea nuts, which contain 40-55% fat. If desired, a solvent extraction can be carried out after pressing, usually using hexane, to extract the remaining fat, approximately one third of the fat. In cosmetics, oftentimes only butter, obtained by pressing, is used because of its more natural aspect. Sometimes this pressing is carried out in an industrial way, but sometimes also in an artisanal way. The shea butter thus obtained has a solid to fairly hard consistency at room temperature, largely melts at body temperature and is completely liquid above 40°C. Usually the product is refined before use to remove free fatty acids and unwanted taste or odor substances and also to give it a lighter color.

Shea butter used as such in a care product has a clear influence on the consistency of this product: it increases the melting point compared to most other oils and fats. Due to its high solid fat content at room temperature, it has a viscosity-increasing effect, which means that the end products risk becoming insufficiently spreadable. This is why, especially in the lighter products, the shea butter must be diluted with considerable amounts of liquid oil. For richer creams or ointments, this is less restrictive. However, combinations between shea butter and coconut oil are also found in creams, sometimes because of the eutectic effect between these fats and the resulting lower viscosity in the end product.

Another possible complication when using standard shea butter is linked to the process for the manufacture of the care product. If it contains a cold step, the shea butter risks crystallizing prematurely and separating. Such processing can be limiting on the amount of shea that can be used in the recipe.

Finally, there is also a risk that the shea butter, present in the final product, recrystallizes, which can give an undesirable white appearance to the product and can also change its consistency.

The limitations of shea butter outlined here can be partly solved by opting for a liquid fraction of shea butter, the so-called shea olein, which is now a product that is frequently used in cosmetic applications. This product is a liquid fraction that is obtained as a by-product during the fractionation of shea butter into so-called shea stearin. This stearin is used in the manufacture of cocoa butter equivalents.

This fractionation is usually performed using acetone as a solvent. One of the effects of this is that the diglycerides present in the shea butter are concentrated in the olein fraction. Their presence in the stearin is undesirable for use in cocoa butter equivalents. The diglyceride content in shea olein can therefore easily rise to 8 to 12%, or even higher.

Whether or not the presence of diglycerides in shea butter or shea olein is desirable for cosmetic applications is not clear.

For example, the inventors of EP 3 587 543 strive to reduce the diglyceride content in shea olein as much as possible, to levels below 10%, preferably below 6.5%, preferably even below 3%. The diglycerides are associated with a loss of transparency after storage of the olein product. This is sometimes accompanied by the settling of a high-melting fraction. In order to lower the diglyceride content, the inventors propose to use chemical or enzymatic processes. The end products obtained are characterized, among other things, by a high iodine value, for example more than 73 or more than 80. These products can be used in cosmetic applications, in particular in massage oil or in cleansing oil.

The approach of the inventors of WO 2009/139884 A1 is completely different. They strive to increase the mono- and diglycerides content in, inter alia, shea butter or fractions thereof. To this end they use a chemical process, namely glycerolysis of shea butter or shea oil with glycerin, provided that a basic catalyst is used, preferably potassium hydroxide. The effect is that one obtains a mixture of mono-, di- and triglycerides (MG, DG, TG) of shea butter or oil which has approximately the same amount of unsaponifiable fraction as the starting product and whereby the melting point increases from approximately 35°C for shea butter or from approximately 15°C for shea oil, to values of approximately 40-44°C. It is therefore recommended to heat the product to approximately 45°C before use. The glyceride mix shows an improved emulsifying effect. However, the addition of additives such as surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners and the like remains desirable. Quite a few of these agents are synthetic in nature, as it can be seen from the products listed and from the recipes used in the examples. Some are known to cause skin irritations. The use of a chemical process, as prescribed in WO 2009/139884 A1 , is a disadvantage, not only for the product image, for example if one strives for an organic or bio label, but also when one strives for a well-defined balance between mono-, di- and triglyceride levels in the final product. This is because the chemical reaction proceeds very quickly and it is difficult or impossible to stop it at a predetermined point. This document remains unclear about the composition of the final product in terms of mono-, di- and triglyceride content. It only mentions elevated melting points and an HLB value between 4.5-5.5. Both indicate a high content of, largely saturated, monoglycerides. Remarkable is the limited incorporation of the product developed here, compared to other glyceride sources used, both in the formulation of light and richer products for cosmetic application. This is evident from the examples: a lotion with 13 % added oils and fats, of which only 23.1 % consists of “shea butter glycerides”; a shea butter cream with 30 % shea ingredients, of which relatively only 16.7% consists of the developed shea butter glycerides. In this last formulation, 1 % dimethicone is also used, which indicates insufficient functionality obtained from the shea glyceride mix in the formula. Dimethicone is a synthetic product with a soothing and hydrating function. However, the use of this ingredient is controversial, partly because of its potentially irritating and comedogenic effect and in some cases even allergic reactions.

WO 2003/099240 A1 describes a lipid composition with lanolin-like characteristics comprising a combination of non-polar unsaponifiable matter from vegetable oils and fats and a polar mixture of fatty acid esters. This composition has improved properties towards adhesion and water absorption. For example, the mixture of fatty acid esters can be produced by chemical glycerolysis of a triglyceride mixture until the reaction endpoint. For shea butter, as in WO 2009/139884 A1 , this gives rise to a high melting point, namely 50 °C. No information is provided about the glyceride composition obtained. Also for other oils, for example olive oil, the content of mono- and diglycerides is sometimes increased for cosmetic applications, as described in WO 2009/056275 A1. The intention here is, among other things, to obtain an improved stability or emulsifying or dispersing effect. An improved affinity for the skin is also mentioned. Characteristic of the invention of WO 2009/056275 A1 is that the aim is to keep the content of unsaponifiable fraction to a minimum, preferably lower than 200 ppm or even lower than 100 ppm. According to the inventors, this fraction is disadvantageous because of the inferior color or smell, a lower stability or a change in solidification properties. Such a low content can, allegedly, be achieved by the specific preparation method which consists of a hydrolysis step to produce fatty acids starting from soaps, obtained from chemical neutralization, followed by a distillation and an esterification reaction. The use of chemical processes in production, in addition to the lack of an unsaponifiable healing fraction, is a major drawback here.

WO 1992/016184 A1 also describes the use of chemical glycerolysis to make respectively a component A with a high, and quite similar, content of both mono- and diglycerides and a component B with a particularly high amount of diglycerides. For component B, a high melting fat with an iodine value of less than 30 is used, preferably a fully hydrogenated fat. Depending on the application and the desired viscosity, the mixing ratio of component A and B in the composition is adjusted to subsequently make an emulsion thereof. The use of such a glyceride mix makes it possible to replace classic emulsifiers and stabilizers, while preserving the role of the vegetable oil as a soothing ingredient. From the description and the example, this composition appears to contain high amounts of high melting mono- and diglycerides.

The enzymatic conversion of shea butter or fractions thereof, together with glycerine into mixtures of mono-, di- and triglycerides is described, inter alia, in WO 2018/206464 A1 , which aims to make emulsions for applications in food products, such as bakery and confectionery applications. For example, the inventors start from shea olein or shea stearin, add a certain amount of glycerine to this fat, and subsequently also add a non-specific enzyme from Candida Antartica. No information is given about the amount of enzyme used. The reaction is always allowed to proceed to completion, which in practice means a reaction time of 24 hours. In this invention, a high MG content, of at least 20 wt. %, is aimed at. The end products obtained in the above examples contain approximately 25 wt. % MG, as will also be illustrated in Comparative Example 1 , described below. At the completion of the reaction, a DG/MG ratio of 1 .7 to 1 .8 is obtained. The product is compared with an end product from chemical glycerolysis, which is carried out in accordance with the method described in the above-mentioned WO 2009/139884 A1 , namely by using potassium hydroxide as a catalyst. This experiment shows that in such case even more monoglycerides are formed, resulting in a DG/MG ratio in the order of 1 .2.

One of the uses of the compositions of WO 2018/206464 A1 is bakery margarine, preferably for puff pastry or cake applications. The use of monoglycerides, in particular of glycerol monostearate (GMS), in bakery applications is widespread and well known (i.e. US 2 532 523, US 3 144 339). This high-melting monoglyceride is also formed to a significant extent during glycerolysis of shea fats, which are rich in stearic acid. This explains why WO 2018/206464 aims for high levels of monoglycerides (MG), preferably saturated MG with a high content of C18-0.

The processes described above that convert shea butter or fractions thereof along with glycerin into a mix of TG, DG and MG, and whereby the description indicates that they are allowed to react to the end point, all share the same important property, in particular that the glycerolysis reaction creates a significant amount of components with a very high melting point. In the first instance these are saturated monoglycerides, but to some extent also disaturated diglycerides, mainly diglycerides havinga fatty acid chain length of 18 carbon atoms. These are glycerides with a melting point around or even above 60°C. The problem described above relating to the limitation of shea butter in formulations reoccurs with the shea-based glyceride mix according to the said inventions, to an even greater extent, since their melting point is even higher than that of traditional shea butter. Diluting these shea-based glycerides with other vegetable oils, such as safflower oil, olive oil, sesame oil, almond oil, and the like, as it is sometimes done, reduces the beneficial effect expected from the product containing the shea-based glyceride blend. Heating the product is also not a direct solution, as it loses ease of use. By the way, many hydrating creams are used in winter, even at lower temperatures. It is important at that time to have a cream that can be spread well and that offers maximum protection.

In view of the above, there is a need for a composition, comprising shea-based unsaponifiable matter, with improved functionality, suitable for use in care products, with enhanced emulsifying capacity, with good spreadability at room temperature, with a pleasant and soothing feel on the skin, that at the same time allows to incorporate larger amounts of shea-based ingredients into cosmetic formulations.

There is also a need for care product formulations that utilize said compositions comprising shea-based unsaponifiables, so as to minimize or, preferably, avoid the use of synthetic products and/or products based on petroleum derivatives.

There is also a need for an affordable method to prepare this improved composition, comprising shea-based unsaponifiables, which preferably does not involve chemical modifications.

2. Summary of the invention.

The inventors have now surprisingly found that it is possible to provide compositions fulfilling the above mentioned needs.

It is thus an object of the present invention to provide a composition with an improved emulsifying capacity and sufficient ease of use, and which allows to incorporate increased amounts of shea-based ingredients into product formulations, and wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 75.0 to 97.5 percentage by weight [wt. %, hereinafter] of a glyceride mixture, b) from 2.5 to 25.0 wt. % of a fraction of unsaponifiables [unsaponifiable fraction, hereinafter], wherein said unsaponifiable fraction is at least 70 wt. % of shea origin and wherein the content of the unsaponifiable fraction is determined according to the ISO 3596:2000 method, and wherein the composition is further characterized by, c) an iodine value (IV) of more than 57, wherein the iodine value (IV) is determined according to the ISO 3961 :2018 method d) a melting point of less than 35°C, wherein the melting point is determined according to the AOCS Cc 3-25:2009 method and wherein the glyceride mixture, relative to the total weight of the glyceride mixture, is characterized by, e) a content of diglycerides [DG, hereinafter] and monoglycerides [MG, hereinafter] , together [DG + MG, hereinafter] , of more than 25.0 wt. %, and f) a weight ratio DG/MG of at least 2.20.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a method for preparing the composition.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a use of the composition for preparing an emulsified product .

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a use of the composition for preparing a care product. 3. Detailed description of the invention.

Within the scope of the present invention, the following terms and definitions are used.

Within the scope of the present invention, all percentages are expressed as weight percent, indicated as wt.%.

Within the scope of the present invention, the terms “oils” and “fats” will be used interchangeably.

A “fat” or “fat composition” is a product from vegetable or animal origin or a combination of both, mainly consisting of glycerides, but possibly also containing other components, such as free fatty acids, phospholipids, unsaponifiable matter, and others.

Within the scope of the present invention the term "a glyceride mixture" refers to all of tri-, di- and monoglycerides present in the composition of the present invention. Method ISO 18 395:2005 is a suitable method for the quantitative determination of each of the glyceride types.

In general, the melting point of a fat composition is determined according to the standard method AOCS Cc 3-25. Preferably, the melting point of the composition of the present invention is determined according to this standard method AOCS Cc 3-25:2009.

Within the scope of the present invention the term "a fraction of unsaponifiables” [unsaponifiable fraction, hereinafter] refers to that fraction in the composition of the present invention which is determined according to method ISO 3596:2000. It is therefore a fraction that consists of unsaponifiable matter.

Within the scope of this invention, it is further understood that the term "unsaponifiable fraction derived from shea origin" refers to unsaponifiable components, which are encountered as such in shea fat or to unsaponifiable components that can be formed by reaction starting from components present in shea fat. In that sense, triterpene esters originating from shea form part of the unsaponifiable fraction of shea origin, but also triterpene alcohols, for example which can be formed, among other things, by the reaction of triterpene esters of shea origin, for example by hydrolysis. Other modifications of unsaponifiable fractions present in shea are also possible insofar as they give rise to products which are also regarded as unsaponifiable, either in their entirety or in part, according to the method described above.

According to the present invention, a composition comprises relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 75.0 to 97.5 percentage by weight [wt. %., hereinafter] of a glyceride mixture, b) from 2.5 to 25.0 wt. % of a fraction of unsaponifiables [unsaponifiable fraction, hereinafter] wherein this unsaponifiable fraction is at least 70 wt. % of shea origin and wherein the content of the unsaponifiable fraction is determined according to the ISO 3596:2000 method, and wherein the composition is further characterized by, c) an iodine value (IV) of more than 57, wherein the iodine value (IV) is determined according to the ISO 3961 :2018 method d) a melting point of less than 35°C, wherein the melting point is determined according to the AOCS Cc 3-25:2009 method and wherein the glyceride mixture, relative to the total weight of the glyceride mixture, is characterized by, e) a content of diglycerides [DG, herein after] and monoglycerides [MG, herein after], together [DG + MG, herein after] , of more than 25.0 wt. %, and f) a weight ratio DG/MG of at least 2.20.

The glycerides present in the glyceride mixture, as comprised in the composition according to the present invention, as described above, can be of different origins, both vegetable and animal, but are preferably from vegetable origin and more preferably derived from shea or to a large extent from shea origin. The term “shea-based ingredient” is generally understood to mean a product that can be used as an ingredient and that comprises components, which are based on shea products or whereby the shea products can be used as one of the basic products. This includes, among other things, shea butter or fractions of shea butter, for example a stearin or olein fraction of shea butter, but also, for example, a fraction enriched in unsaponifiable components of shea butter. A shea-based ingredient also includes reaction products of shea butter or shea butter fractions, which may have reacted together with another component, for example in the presence of a chemical or enzymatic catalyst. A mixture comprising tri-, di- and monoglycerides (TG, DG and MG) and unsaponifiable fractions that is created by the reaction of shea butter or a fraction of shea butter with glycerin under the influence of a chemical catalyst or an enzyme is therefore also an example of a “shea based ingredient”.

Within the scope of the present invention, the glyceride mixture formed by the reaction of shea butter or a fraction of shea butter with glycerin under the influence of a chemical catalyst or an enzyme is also referred to as a "shea-based glyceride mixture" or "shea-based glycerides". Said glycerin does not have to be of shea origin. The characteristics of the reaction product obtained mainly depend on the type of fat used, in this case shea butter or a fraction thereof. In the starting product for the reaction, the fat will also be dominant in weight percentage compared to the glycerin. It is also not excluded that components that were present in the original fat, for example triglycerides, undergo a modification or rearrangement in such a reaction.

According to a preferred embodiment, the glyceride mixture, as comprised in the composition according to the present invention, is mainly a shea-based glyceride mixture.

The inventors have found that due to the specific presence of the unsaponifiable fraction, this unsaponifiable fraction being for at least 70 wt. % of shea origin and wherein the content of the unsaponifiable fraction is determined according to the method ISO 3596:2000, and as comprised in the composition according to the present invention, this fraction has a beneficial effect in view of the end use of the composition.

In the composition according to the present invention, the unsaponifiable fraction, as described above, is preferably at least 80 wt. %, more preferably for at least 85 wt. %, more preferably at least 90 wt. %, more preferably for at least 95 wt. % of shea origin.

In general, the unsaponifiable fraction in shea consists of various components, such as triterpenes, in alcohol or ester form, tocopherols, phytosterols, a gummy karitene fraction, and the like. This unsaponifiable fraction from shea is considered beneficial in skin care products, because of its protective, but also healing effect.

The composition of the unsaponifiable fraction in shea is unique, with the presence of a karitene fraction and high triterpene levels, typically 65-75% of the unsaponifiable matter. Triterpenes in ester form mainly consist of triterpene acetate and triterpene cinnamate. In the shea unsaponifiable fraction, the acetate/cinnamate ratio is also typical. A commonly used measurement method to determine the triterpenes is GCMS.

Within the current context, based on the composition of the unsaponifiable fraction in a product, this fraction can be characterized by origin.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises in proportion to the total weight of the composition: a) from 80.0 to 97.0 wt. % of the glyceride mixture, as described above b) from 3.0 to 20.0 wt. % of the unsaponifiable fraction, as described above. According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises in proportion to the total weight of the composition: a) from 83.0 to 96.5 wt. % of the glyceride mixture, as described above b) from 3.5 to 17.0 wt. % of the unsaponifiable fraction, as described above.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises in proportion to the total weight of the composition: a) from 85.0 to 95.5 wt. % of the glyceride mixture, as described above b) from 4.5 to 15.0 wt. % of the unsaponifiable fraction, as described above.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is characterized by an iodine value (IV) of more than 59, preferably more than 60, more preferably more than 62, the iodine value (IV) being determined according to the ISO 3961 :2018 method.

It is further understood that the iodine value (IV) of the composition of the present invention is preferably less than 100, preferably less than 90, even more preferably less than 85.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is characterized by a melting point of less than 34°C, preferably less than 33°C, preferably less than 32°C, preferably less than 30°C.

The melting point is therefore clearly below body temperature. In general, the melting point of a fat composition is determined according to the standard method AOCS Cc 3-25:2009. Preferably, the melting point of the composition of the present invention is determined by the standard method AOCS Cc 3-25:2009.

According to a preferred embodiment, the glyceride mixture comprised in the composition according to the present invention is characterized by a DG + MG content of more than 30.0 wt. %, preferably of more than 35.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the glyceride mixture.

According to a preferred embodiment, the glyceride mixture comprised in the composition according to the present invention is characterized by a DG + MG content of between 25.0 wt. % and 65.0 wt. %, preferably between 30.0 wt. % and 60.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the glyceride mixture.

According to a preferred embodiment, the glyceride mixture comprised in the composition according to the present invention is characterized by a weight ratio DG/MG of at least 2.50, preferably of at least 2.70, most preferably of at least 3.00.

According to a preferred embodiment, the glyceride mixture comprised in the composition according to the present invention is further characterized by a MG content of more than 2.0 wt. %, preferably of more than 3.0 wt. %, preferably of more than 5.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the glyceride mixture. It is further understood that the content of MG in the glyceride mixture comprised in the composition of the present invention is preferably less than 20.0 wt. %, preferably less than 18.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the glyceride mixture.

According to a preferred embodiment, the glyceride mixture comprised in the composition according to the present invention is characterized by a weight ratio of the unsaturated MG relative to the saturated MG (unsaturated MG/saturated MG, herein after_ of at least 1 .80, preferably at least 2.00, more preferably at least 2.20, most preferably at least 2.50. A too high content of saturated MG can lead to a too high content of high-melting fractions, which is undesirable in this composition.

According to certain embodiments of the composition of the present invention, the composition may further comprise other non-glyceride components, which also do not belong to the unsaponifiable fraction, as described above. Within the scope of the present invention, the term "other nonglyceride components" refers to components that can be found in a fat, which do not belong to the glyceride fraction, nor to the unsaponifiable fraction. Non-limiting examples of such components are free fatty acids, phospholipids, glycerin and the like.

Preferably, the content of these non-glyceride components, which also do not belong to the unsaponifiable fraction, is equal to or less than 20.0 wt. %, preferably equal to or less than 15.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the composition according to the present invention, the content of free fatty acids is equal to or less than 20.0 wt. %, preferably equal to or less than 15.0 wt. %, more preferably equal to or less than 10.0 wt. %, more preferably equal to or less than 5.0 wt. %, most preferably equal to or less than 3.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is characterized by a melting point of less than 27°C, preferably less than 25°C, more preferably less than 23°C, most preferably less than 20°C, wherein the melting point is determined according to the AOCS Cc 3-25:2009 method. This embodiment is aimed at supplying a composition that allows it to be easily spread on the skin as such, as a skin care oil or as part of a personal care product, without the product necessarily having to be enriched with other liquid oils, in order to achieve this favorable effect.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention, is characterized by a content of triglycerides with an unsaturated fatty acid residue in the 2-position, of at least 70 wt. %, preferably at least 80 wt. %, more preferably at least 85 wt. %, relative to the total weight of all triglycerides.

The present invention also provides a method for preparing the composition, described above. Furthermore, it should be understood that all definitions and preferences as described above also apply to the method for preparing said composition, as described above, and all further embodiments, as described below.

For preparing the composition according to the present invention, several methods may be used appropriately.

The method for preparing the composition, as described above, preferably comprises the following steps:

1 . forming a reaction mixture by reacting a fat, which is at least 50 wt. % of shea origin, with glycerol in the presence of an enzyme,

2. removing a high-melting fraction from the reaction mixture obtained in Step 1 .

In Step 1. of the method for preparing the composition, as described above, the reaction of the fat, which is at least 50 wt. % of shea origin, with glycerol occurs preferably in the presence of a lipase enzyme.

According to a preferred embodiment, the method for preparing the composition, as described above, in Step 1. comprises a purification step, which is performed after the reaction of the fat, which is at least 50 wt. % of shea origin, with glycerol, as described above, but before removing a high-melting fraction in Step 2.

The aim of this purification step in Step 1 . is to remove the used enzyme, as well as the excess glycerol. If desired, this excess of glycerol and enzyme can mostly be re-used.

According to a preferred embodiment of the method for preparing the composition, as described above, the reaction of the fat, which is at least 50 wt. % of shea origin, with glycerol [glycerolysis reaction, herein after], as described above, is not necessarily carried out to the end point.

Preferably, the glycerolysis reaction in Step 1 . is stopped at a point where the weight ratio of DG/MG in the reaction mixture [DGr/MGr, herein after] is at least 2.00, preferably at least 2.10. According to a preferred embodiment of the method for preparing the composition, as described above, the reaction mixture in Step 1 . is characterized by a weight ratio DGr/MGr Of at least 2.00, preferably at least 2.10.

Preferably, in Step 2., the removal of the high-melting fraction from the reaction mixture obtained in Step 1 . is carried out in such a way that the glyceride mixture, as described above, comprised in the composition according to the present invention, is characterized by a weight ratio DG/ MG which is higher than the weight ratio DGr/MGr in the reaction mixture obtained in Step 1 .

According to a preferred embodiment in Step 2. of the method for preparing the composition, as described above, the high-melting fraction from the reaction mixture obtained in Step 1 . is removed by at least one fractionation step. This fractionation can be carried out dry or with the aid of a solvent, preferably dry.

When Step 2. of the method for preparing the composition as described above comprises a fractionation, at least two fractions are formed with different melting points.

After removal of the high-melting fractions, the composition according to the present invention can be obtained, wherein the glyceride mixture, as described above, comprised in this composition, is characterized by a weight ratio DG/MG which is at least 10.0 %, preferably at least 15.0 %, more preferably at least 20.0 %, most preferably at least 25.0 % higher than the weight ratio of DGr/MGr in the reaction mixture obtained in Step 1 .

According to a preferred embodiment of the method for preparing the composition, as described above, the fat used in the reaction step with glycerol (i.e. Step 1 ) is at least 70 wt. % of shea origin, preferably at least 80 wt. %, more preferably at least 90 wt. %, most preferably at least 95 wt. % of shea origin.

Fats of shea origin comprise shea butter or a fraction of shea butter, or a combination of both. It can be shea butter from artisanal preparation as well as from industrial production, both in crude and refined form.

As described above, it is necessary that the composition of the present invention comprises 2.5 to 25.0 wt. % of unsaponifiable fraction, wherein this unsaponifiable fraction is at least 70 wt. % of shea origin. In this respect it is therefore also important in the choice of suitable fats of shea origin that these contain sufficient unsaponifiable matter. The amount of unsaponifiable fraction found in the obtained composition prepared according to the method described above will depend to a large extent on the percentage of unsaponifiable matter in the shea raw material. It is known that this can vary quite a bit depending on the region the raw material comes from, the growing conditions, the variety, the way the shea butter is extracted, and so on. The literature usually reports levels between 4 and 8 wt. % for shea butter.

According to a preferred embodiment, the method for preparing the composition, as described above, after Step 2. also comprises a refining step whereby the amount of free fatty acids in the composition can be reduced to a maximum of 0.5 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 0.3 wt. % or preferably a maximum of 0.2 wt. %. This refining step may in certain cases include a distillation step, for example to remove free fatty acids, or as a deodorization step. In such cases, the content of monoglycerides (MG) in the composition can also decrease to, for example, less than 1 .0 wt. %, or less than 0.5 wt. %.

According to a specific preferred embodiment, the method of preparing the composition as described above comprises the following steps:

1 . forming a reaction mixture by reacting a fat, which is at least 50 wt. % of shea origin, with glycerol in the presence of a 1 -3 specific lipase enzyme,

2. removing a high-melting fraction from the reaction mixture obtained in Step 1 . According to this specific preferred embodiment, the enzyme used in the reaction step of the fat with glycerol is a 1 -3 specific lipase enzyme. By a 1 -3 specific lipase enzyme is meant a lipase enzyme with an increased specificity or a preference for the 1 - and 3-position of a triglyceride.

According to a preferred embodiment, the enzyme used in the reaction step of the fat with glycerol is a 1 -3 specific lipase enzyme derived from Rhizopus oryzae or from Rhizomucor miehei or from Rhizopus delemar, or from Rhizopus niveus, or from Rhizopus japonicus, or from Mucor japonicus , or from Aspergillus niger, or from Alcaligenes species, or the enzyme is a lipase derived from rice bran, or a lipase of animal origin from the pancreas, or a combination of the foregoing

Examples of such enzymes include enzymes known as Lipozyme RM, Lipura Select, Lipase DF-15, and the like.

This preferred embodiment using a 1 -3 specific enzyme offers certain separation efficiency advantages, after glycerolysis, between an olein and stearin fraction, as will be demonstrated in an example below.

According to this specific preferred embodiment of the method for preparing the composition, as described above, the reaction mixture in Step 1 is characterized by a weight ratio DGr/MGr of at least 2.20, preferably at least 2.30.

According to this specific preferred embodiment in Step 2. of the method for preparing the composition, as described above, the high- melting fraction from the reaction mixture obtained in Step 1 . is removed by at least one fractionation step. This fractionation can be carried out dry or with the aid of a solvent, preferably dry.

According to a preferred embodiment in Step 2. of this specific method of producing the composition, as described above, at least 2 high- melting fractions are removed from the reaction mixture obtained in Step 1 . by at least two fractionation steps. When Step 2. of this specific method for preparing the composition as described above comprises a fractionation, at least two fractions are formed with different melting points.

According to a preferred embodiment, in Step 2. of this specific method for preparing the composition, as described above, comprising at least one fractionation step, at least one fraction is formed which has a melting point of less than 27°C, preferably less than 25°C, more preferably less than 23°C, most preferably less than 20°C, the melting point being determined according to the method AOCS Cc 3-25:2009. This fraction is a composition according to the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, this specific method for preparing the composition, as described above, in Step 1. comprises a purification step carried out after the reaction of the fat, which is at least 50 wt. % of shea origin, with glycerol in the presence of a 1 -3 specific lipase, as described above, but before removal of the high melting fraction in Step 2.

It is the intention of this purification step in Step 1 . that the used enzyme and the excess glycerol can be removed.

The present invention also provides the use of the composition as described above, for preparing an emulsified product.

Preferably, this emulsified product comprises, relative to the total glyceride content in said emulsified product, an amount of glycerides originating from the composition, as described above, which is at least 30.0 wt. %, preferably at least 40.0 wt. %, preferably at least 50.0 wt. %.

For the preparation of a such emulsified product, various methods may be used appropriately. Such emulsified product is also an object of the present invention.

Furthermore, it should be understood that all definitions and preferences as described above also apply to the emulsified product comprising the composition, as described above, and all further embodiments, as described below. An “emulsified product” is a product in emulsified form.

The emulsified product, as described above, can be an oil-in- water (O/W) or a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsified product. This emulsified product is preferably intended for use in a personal care product, preferably a skin care product. However, the emulsified product described here can be used in both food and non-food products. An example of a food application is a margarine or similar product. An example of a non-food application is a product for the treatment or maintenance of leather, for example to keep the leather soft and supple.

The present invention also provides the use of the composition as described above, for preparing a care product.

This care product preferably comprises, relative to the total glyceride content in the personal care product, an amount of glycerides originating from the composition, as described above, which is at least 30.0 wt. %, preferably at least 40.0 wt. %, preferably at least 50.0 wt. %.

The present invention also provides the use of the emulsified product, as described above, for preparing a care product.

Within the scope of the present invention, the term "care product" means a product for the personal care and/or cosmetic treatment of the body, which comes into contact with the body surface, for example the epidermis, lips, hair, the nails, and the like. The intended purpose of care products is mainly to cleanse, protect, keep in condition, heal, change the appearance or beautify, perfume... the body or body parts, or a combination of two or more of the above objectives. Care products therefore include products for personal care or hygiene, as well as beauty products.

For the preparation of a such care product, various methods may be used appropriately. Such care product is also an object of the present invention.

Non-limiting examples of such care products are a cream, a lotion, a balm, an ointment, a body milk, a gel or oil for skin care, an emulsion, a massage oil, a facial mask, sunscreen, anti-wrinkle preparations, a shampoo, a hair conditioner, a lipstick, a shower gel, a cleansing oil, a make-up product.

According to a preferred embodiment, the care product, as described above, is a product for skin care. Preferably, this skin care product belongs to the group consisting of a cream, a lotion, a balm, an ointment, a gel or oil for skin care, an emulsion, a face mask, a make-up foundation, sunscreens, anti-wrinkle preparations, a body milk, a massage oil, and a cleansing oil, more preferably the skin care product is a hydrating ointment or cream.

According to another preferred embodiment, the care product is a care product characterized by having a continuous fat phase, wherein the care product preferably comprises a maximum of 15.0 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 10.0 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 5.0 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 3.0 wt. % water, relative to the total weight of the care product.

Preferably, said care product belongs to the group consisting of skin care oil, hair care oil, massage oil, cleansing oil, bath oil. In certain specific cases, one will also speak of shea oil or “karite” oil, which indicates that it is a product that is preferably liquid or semi-liquid at room temperature, and that it is mainly of shea origin. Such oil can be enriched with other components that, for example, give the product a pleasant scent or an improved storage time, or with other active components with a beneficial effect on, for example, the skin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the care product of the present invention comprises, relative to the total glyceride content in the care product, an amount of glycerides originating from the composition, as described above, of at least 30.0 wt. % and an amount of glycerides of shea origin that is at least 40.0 wt. %, preferably at least 50.0 wt. %, more preferably at least 60.0 wt. %, most preferably at least 65.0 wt. %.

The glycerides of shea origin can therefore also be mixed with glycerides of other origins, preferably from oils with a beneficial effect on the skin. Examples of such oils include argan oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, avocado oil, and the like.

It is further understood that preferably, in the care products according to the present invention, the content of ingredients of shea origin, relative to the total weight of the care products, is at least 10.0 wt. %, preferably at least 12.0 wt. %, preferably at least 15.0 wt. %.

In a specific preferred embodiment, the care product of the present invention is a liquid oil, which comprises at most 5.0 wt. % water, which has a melting point lower than 25 °C, preferably lower than 23 °C, preferably lower than 20 °C, whereby the care product is at least 80 wt. %, preferably at least 85 wt.%, more preferably at least 90 wt.%, most preferably at least 95 wt. % of shea origin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the care products of the present invention comprise, relative to the total weight of the care product, a content of ingredients of synthetic origin of at most 5.0 wt. %, preferably at most 3.0 wt. %, preferably at most 2.0 wt. %, preferably at most 1 .0 wt. %, preferably at most 0.5 wt. %.

Within the scope of the present invention, the term "ingredients of synthetic origin" refers to ingredients obtained by chemical reaction or containing components so obtained. Ingredients obtained by enzymatic reaction are not regarded as synthetic ingredients within the scope of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the care products of the present invention comprise, relative to the total weight of the care product, a content of ingredients, derived from petroleum products, of a at most 5.0 wt. %, preferably at most 3.0 wt. %, preferably at most 1 .0 wt. %. Vaseline is an example of a product derived from petroleum products.

Synthetic and petroleum derived products tend to have a negative image among consumers.

According to a preferred embodiment, the care products of the present invention do not comprise any fat ingredients or derivatives thereof of animal origin. Thus, preferably, the fats and glycerin used are not of animal origin. However, the care product may comprise, for example, beeswax. The consumer's preference is for products mainly of vegetable origin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition, according to the present invention, as described above, comprised in the care product, is a carrier of active components.

According to another preferred embodiment, the emulsified product according to the present invention, as described above, comprised in the care product, is a carrier of active components.

An example of such an active component are anti-oxidants that can be added. Another example are essential oils that can also be added to the composition.

The present invention will be further illustrated by the examples and comparative examples below.

4. Examples

All mixing ratios, contents and concentrations in this text are given in units of weight and weight percent, unless stated otherwise.

Comparative example 1

200 grams of refined shea olein was heated to 70°C, to which 35 grams of glycerol was added, also at 70°C. The mixture was stirred on a magnetic heating plate and kept at that temperature. The speed of the magnetic stirrer was 400 revolutions per minute (rpm). Subsequently, 6 wt. % enzyme were added on a fat basis of the Lipozyme 435 enzyme from producer Novozymes. This enzyme is a non-specific lipase enzyme.

Samples were taken at different times to monitor the reaction.

The reaction progress is shown in Table 1. The contents of monoglycerides (MG), diglycerides (DG) and triglycerides (TG) are expressed in weight percent relative to the total glyceride content. Under the chosen reaction conditions, a quite rapid evolution towards an end point was observed.

For comparison, the levels obtained in Example 1 of WO 2018/206464 are also reported, also normalized to total glycerides. This also involved an experiment on shea olein treated with the same enzyme for 24 hours. However, the amount of enzyme used was not described. This obviously plays a role in determining the reaction time required to get to a certain point.

Table 1

(*) Values from Example 1 WO2018/206464 normalised on total glyceride content

From this test we can conclude that the enzymatic glycerolysis evolves towards an endpoint whereby the ratio DG/MG is approximately 1 .8. This is fully consistent with the findings of the inventors of WO 2018/206464 after completion of the reaction. In chemical glycerolysis, the ratio after reaction is approximately 1 .2, as shown in the comparative example of WO 2018/206464.

When other ratios in DG/MG are desired, the experiment performed here gives a first indication of the necessary reaction conditions and reaction time. Example 2

In this example, a DG/MG ratio is aimed for that is clearly different from that of the comparative example 1 . The reaction conditions and reaction time were adjusted for this purpose.

300 grams of refined shea olein with iodine value (IV) 63.3 was heated to 70 °C, to which 40 grams of glycerol was added, also at 70 °C. The mixture was stirred on a magnetic heating plate and kept at that temperature. The speed of the magnetic stirrer was 100 rpm. Subsequently, 2 wt. % Lipozyme 435 on fat basis was added and the mixture started to react. The reaction was stopped after 3.5 hours of reaction time. After reaction, the mixture showed a diglyceride content of 35.0 wt. % and a monoglyceride content of 13.7 wt. % on total fat content. Thus, the DG/MG ratio was 2.6, which clearly indicates that the reaction was not complete.

The reaction was stopped by first separating the excess of glycerol as well as the enzyme from the fat mixture by centrifugation (5 min at 4500 rpm in a device type Sigma 3-16 PK). Subsequently, the fat mixture was mixed 1/1 with hexane, brought to a temperature of 50°C and filtered on a Buchner filter equipped with a Whatman 1 paper filter. The filtrate was then stored at a temperature of 20°C. Gradually, crystals began to form, which settled at the bottom. After 6 hours the sample showed a layer of crystals at the bottom, the supernatant was clear. Subsequently, the crystals were filtered off over a paper filter Whatman 1 . The filtrate was desolventized on a Rotavapor and analyzed for the glyceride composition (see Table 2: olein 2). The product contained 83.8% glycerides on total composition.

Additional measurements were done on this olein 2, in particular the melting point according to the AOCS Cc 3-25:2009 method, the iodine value (IV) according to the ISO 3961 :2018 method and the unsaponifiable matter content according to the ISO 3596:2000 method resulting in:

- melting point: 27.2 °C (method AOCS Cc 3-25:2009)

- iodine value: 66.1 (method ISO 3961 :2018) - unsaponifiable matter content: 5.0 wt. % (method ISO 3596:2000)

Table 2

Example 3

300 grams of refined shea olein with iodine value (IV) 63.3 was heated to 70 °C, to which 40 grams of glycerol was added, also at 70 °C. The mixture was stirred on a magnetic heating plate and kept at that temperature. The speed of the magnetic stirrer was 100 rpm. Then 4 wt. % Lipozyme 435 was added on fat basis and the mixture started to react. The reaction proceeded at 70°C and was stopped after 5 hours of reaction time, according to the method described in Example 2. After reaction, the mixture showed a diglyceride content of 38.8 wt. % and a monoglyceride content of 18.7 wt. % on total fat content. Thus, the DG/MG ratio was 2.1 , which clearly indicates that the reaction was not complete.

The 1/1 mixture of fat and hexane was filtered after 14 hours at room temperature through a Whatman 1 paper filter to remove settled fat crystals. The obtained olein was then desolventized and analysed. The product contained 90.3% glycerides on the total composition. The glyceride composition of this olein 3 is shown in Table 3.

Additional measurements were done on this olein 3, in particular the melting point according to the AOCS Cc 3-25:2009 method, the iodine value (IV) according to the ISO 3961 :2018 method and the unsaponifiable matter content according to the ISO 3596:2000 method resulting in:

- melting point: 32.0 °C (method AOCS Cc 3-25:2009)

- iodine value: 66.0 (method ISO 3961 :2018) - unsaponifiable matter content: 5.0 wt. % (method ISO 3596:2000)

Table3

Example 4

300 grams of raw shea butter with a free fatty acid (FFA) content of 4.2 wt. % and a content of unsaponifiable matter of 4.8 wt. %, was heated to 70 °C, to which 40 grams of glycerol was added, also at 70 °C. The mixture was stirred on a magnetic heating plate and kept at that temperature. The speed of the magnetic stirrer was 200 rpm. Subsequently, 2 wt. % Lipozyme 435 on fat basis were added. The reaction proceeded at 70°C and was stopped after 6 hours of reaction time, according to the method described in Example 2. After reaction, the reaction mixture showed a diglyceride content of 37.9 wt. % and a monoglyceride content of 14.6 wt. % on total fat content. Thus, the DG/MA ratio was 2.6, which clearly indicates that the reaction was not complete.

The 1/1 mixture of fat and hexane was stored at 32°C for 16 hours after filtration. A layer of crystals formed at the bottom. These were filtered through a Whatman 1 paper filter. A sample was taken from the filtrate for glyceride analysis: the DG/MG ratio on this product was already 4.0.

Subsequently, the filtrate was placed at 4°C for 3.5 hours. Again a crystal mass formed, whichsettled at the bottom. However, the supernatant was thick viscous and it was not clear. The whole mixture was then placed at 22°C for one hour. The supernatant became more fluid. Then the product was centrifuged for 5 min at 4500 rpm. The supernatant was decanted and desolventized to form a final olein. The product contained 88.3% glycerides on total composition. The glyceride composition of this final olein 4 is shown in Table 4.

Additional measurements were done on this olein 4, in particular the melting point according to the AOCS Cc 3-25:2009 method, the iodine value (IV) according to the ISO 3961 :2018 method and the unsaponifiable matter content according to the ISO 3596:2000 method resulting in:

- melting point: 29.5 °C (method AOCS Cc 3-25:2009)

- iodine value: 60.1 (method ISO 3961 :2018)

- unsaponifiable matter content: 5.0 wt. % (method ISO 3596:2000)

Table 4

We already see a strong effect on the DG/MG ratio after the first fractionation step at 32 °C. Apparently more MG than DG are removed in this step, which points to the crystallization of mainly high-melting and thus saturated MG. These high-melting components are undesirable for the intended application.

The specific characteristics of the final product were obtained here not only through the fractionation step, but also through the close monitoring of the enzymatic reaction that was stopped at a certain point of partial conversion. This is an important difference compared to the background knowledge, more specifically compared to WO 2009/139884. In this patent, the reaction proceeds in a chemical manner with potassium hydroxide as a catalyst. The comparative example of WO 2018/206464 mimics this reaction on shea butter, the same raw material as the present example. This shows the differences on a total, normalized, glyceride basis very clearly as shown in Table 5:

Table 5

(*)Values from Comparative Example WO2018/206464 normalised on total glyceride content.

Example 5

A personal care cream was prepared with the olein obtained in example 2, according to the following recipe:

Phase A

Distilled water 16 gr

Glycerol 8 gr

Phase B

Shea based ingredient Olein 2 (example 2,

Table 2) 28 gr

Olive oil 7 gr

Liquid Lecithin 15 gr

Phase C

Distilled water 126 gr The cream was prepared as follows:

Phase A: Glycerol was added to distilled water at a temperature of 30°C. The mixture was kept at that temperature.

Phase B: 28 g of the Shea based ingredient (Olein 2) and 7 g of olive oil were heated to 70 °C. 15 g of liquid lecithin was added to it and mixed by gentle stirring until the lecithin was completely homogeneously distributed in the oil.

Phase C: The distilled water was also heated to 70°C.

Mixing Phase B and C: “One Pot” method. Phase C was added to Phase B at once, then both phases were mixed for 1 min by means of a hand blender at maximum speed.

After mixing, the sample had a homogeneous appearance.

Subsequently, this mixture was cooled to 30°C by placing the beaker au bain marie in a water bath at 18°C. Cooling was done under slow, manual stirring. The cream gradually thickened.

At 30°C, Phase A was added portionwise to the emulsion and stirred. The cream got a little thicker.

The resulting cream was then allowed to rest for 24 hours at room temperature before being ready for use. No preservatives were added for this short-term test.

The cream was completely homogeneous after 24 hours without separation of water or oil. The cream preserved its consistency, even after a week.

After 48 hours, the cream was evaluated by a panel of 10 people.

The participants were asked to spread the cream over the skin, on the back of the hand.

First, a commercial product was presented to the panel as a reference product. It was a cream for extra dry skin, enriched with shea butter, also containing rapeseed oil and coconut oil in the formula. In this reference product, the shea butter is a source of triglycerides and of an unsaponifiable fraction; the shea ingredient is not added here as a prepared mix of mono-, di- and triglycerides, unlike the formula prepared according to example 5. This formula also contained dimethicone and isopropyl myristate. These are synthetic products that are often used in skin creams because of their soothing and penetration enhancing effect. Synthetic emulsifiers were also present in the formula.

The reference cream was described by the panel as easily spreadable, slightly greasy and soft.

Then the members of the panel were asked to rate the cream produced here, knowing what standard products from the market, with the same objective, look like.

They were asked to give a score from 0 to 5 for the following parameters:

Spreadability, Greasy feel, stickiness, ease of absorption into the skin, feeling of softness.

The assigned score had the following meaning:

0-1 : very pronounced in a negative sense

1 -2: rather negative

2-3: noticeable effect, but not disturbing

3-4: rather positive

4-5: very pronounced in a positive sense

The results of the evaluation were as follows

Table 6

In summary, we can say that the cream did not show any pronounced negative effect, while there was a pronounced positive effect in terms of feeling of softness.

The score was quite comparable to that of the reference product, without any synthetic product having to be used to obtain certain effects, such as emulsifying effect, ease of absorption through the skin or feeling of softness.

These effects were largely achieved thanks to the shea-based ingredient developed here, which is present in high amounts in the formula.

Another characteristic of this cream is that it contains a high content of active ingredients that are beneficial for the skin (these are the unsaponifiables in the shea-based ingredient).

No chemical methods were used to produce the shea-based ingredient.

The lecithin added to the formula is a natural emulsifier: this is liquid soy lecithin. Such a product consists of approximately one third of soybean oil and two thirds of a so-called acetone-insoluble fraction. The latter mainly consists of phosphatides, which give the product its emulsifying effect. This means that in the formulation of the personal care product produced here, there is a total glyceride content of approximately 17.7 wt. %, being 1 1 .7 wt. % shea based glycerides of the olein 2, which comprise 83.8% glycerides, 3.5 wt. % olive oil and approximately 2.5 wt. % soya oil. The shea-based glycerides therefore represent a percentage of approximately 66 wt. % of the total glyceride mixture. This is considerably higher than the percentages known from, for example, WO 2009/139884, presenting examples of 16.7 and 23.1 wt. % shea butter glycerides on the total respectively. In the context of WO 2009/139884, "shea butter glycerides" refers to the sum of shea based glycerides together with the unsaponifiable fraction. The pure shea-based glycerides fraction, expressed on the total glyceride mixture, will therefore be even lower than the values mentioned above.

It is exactly the intention of the present invention to be able to offer a shea-based ingredient with an improved functionality, which at the same time allows to significantly increase the incorporation percentage of shea-based ingredients in the formula of a care product. This example shows that this is surprisingly possible, provided that a shea-based ingredient is used that meets a number of strict conditions.

At the same time, this ingredient offers the possibility of drastically reducing the use of synthetic products in cosmetic formulations.

It is noteworthy that many personal care products label the percentage of shea in the formula. Additionally, the percentage of "natural ingredients" is also stated on the packaging for quite a number of products. In the case of the reference cream, for example, this was 88 wt. %, which indicates that the product contains approximately 12 wt. % synthetic and/or artificial ingredients.

Other products are stated to be “organic” or “bio products”.

Such parameters are considered important for the quality and image of the product. The product, which was developed here, offers extra possibilities in that respect. Example 6

300 grams of refined shea olein with iodine value (IV) 66.2 was heated to 60 °C, to which 40 grams of glycerol was added, also at 60 °C. The mixture was stirred on a magnetic heating plate and kept at that temperature. The speed of the magnetic stirrer was 150 rpm. Then 4 wt. % Lipozyme RMIM was added on fat basis and the mixture started to react. Lipozyme RMIM is a 1 -3 specific Lipase enzyme derived from Rhizomucor Miehei. The reaction proceeded at 60°C and was stopped after 7 hours of reaction time, according to the method described in example 2. After reaction, the mixture showed a diglyceride content of 31.2 wt. % and a monoglyceride content of 1 1.1 % by weight on total fat content. The ratio DG/MG was therefore 2.8.

The glyceride-hexane mixture obtained after stopping the reaction was then stored overnight at a temperature of 22 °C. A settled crystal phase gradually formed, which at the end of this storage period was filtered off over a Whatman 1 paper filter. The filtrate (i.e. first olein) was desolventized on a Rotavapor and further stored at 22°C. This product was clear at first. Surprisingly, however, after storage for 3 days at the same temperature, a clear separation was again noticeable between a clear upper layer and a lower layer rich in settled crystals. This phenomenon did not occur or did not occur to the same extent in the tests using a non-specific enzyme. Subsequently, both phases were separated by filtration through a paper filter Whatman 1 . The liquid phase, here called second olein 5, was analyzed for glyceride composition (see Table 7: 2nd olein 5). The product contained 83.1 % glycerides on total composition.

Additional measurements were done on this 2^nd olein 5, in particular the melting point according to the AOCS Cc 3-25:2009 method, the iodine value (IV) according to the ISO 3961 :2018 method and the unsaponifiable matter content according to the ISO 3596:2000 method resulting in: - melting point: 17.5 °C (method AOCS Cc 3-25:2009)

- iodine value: 69.3 (method ISO 3961 :2018)

- unsaponifiable matter content: 5.0 wt. % (method ISO 3596:2000)

Table 7:

This 2^nd olein 5 was transparent and very fluid at room temperature.

The product was qualitatively tested by a test person by spreading a drop of this olein on the skin on the back of the hand. The same was done with a drop of the unmodified starting product (i.e. the refined shea olein with iodine value (IV) 66.2), which was first slightly warmed to make it completely liquid. Both products were tested at room temperature. They were both described as very spreadable. An evaluation followed after 30 minutes. The most striking difference that was found is that the starting product remained more like an oil film on the skin, while this was much less the case for the test product according to example 6. In the latter case, the skin felt less greasy. This indicates that the test product according to example 6 was absorbed faster and more easily by the skin.

This test shows that with the process described here a composition can be obtained, rich in an unsaponifiable fraction, which is very suitable for use in or as a skin care product. The incorporation percentage in personal care product formulas can clearly be much higher for this product than for the currently known shea-based glyceride compositions, which either have to be diluted with liquid oils or heated before use.

Claims

1. A composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 75.0 to 97.5 percentage by weight [wt. %, hereinafter] of a glyceride mixture b) from 2.5 to 25.0 wt. % of a fraction of unsaponifiables [unsaponifiable fraction, hereinafter], wherein said unsaponifiable fraction is at least 70 wt. % of shea origin and wherein the content of the unsaponifiable fraction is determined according to the ISO 3596:2000 method and wherein the composition is further characterized by, c) an iodine value (IV) of more than 57, wherein the iodine value (IV) is determined according to the ISO 3961 :2018 method d) a melting point of less than 35 °C, wherein the melting point is determined according to the AOCS Cc 3-25:2009 method and wherein the glyceride mixture, relative to the total weight of the glyceride mixture, is characterized by, e) a content of diglycerides [DG, hereafter] and monoglycerides [MG, hereafter], together [DG + MG, hereafter], of more than 25.0 wt. %, and f) a weight ratio DG/MG of at least 2.20.

2. The composition according to claim 1 , characterized in that the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 80.0 to 97.0 wt.% of the glyceride mixture b) from 3.0 to 20.0 wt.% of the unsaponifiable fraction.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 83.0 t 96.5 wt.% of the glyceride mixture b) from 3.5 to 17.0 wt.% of the unsaponifiable fraction.

4. The composition according to any of the claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 85.0 to 95.5 wt.% of the glyceride mixture b) from 4.5 to 15.0 wt.% of the unsaponifiable fraction.

5. The composition according to any of the claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the composition has an iodine value (IV) of more than 59, preferably more than 60, more preferably more than 62, the iodine value (IV) being determined according to the ISO 3961 :2018 method.

6. The composition according to any of the claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the composition has a melting point of less than 34 °C, preferably less than 33 °C, preferably less than 32 °C, preferably less than 30 °C, the melting point being determined according to the method AOCS Cc 3-25:2009.

7. The composition according to any of the claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the glyceride mixture has a content of DG + MG of more than 30.0 wt. %, preferably of more than 35.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the glyceride mixture.

8. The composition according to any of the claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the glyceride mixture has a weight ratio DG/MG of at least 2.50, preferably of at least 2.70, most preferably of at least 3.00.

9. The composition according to any of the claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the glyceride mixture has a content of MG of more than 2.0 wt.%, preferably of more than 3.0 wt.%, preferably of more than 5.0 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the glyceride mixture.

10. The composition according to any of the claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the composition has a melting point of less than 27 °C, preferably less than 25 °C, preferably less than 23 °C, preferably less than 20 °C, the melting point being determined according to the method AOCS Cc 3-25:2009.

1 1. A method for preparing the composition according to any of the claims 1 to 9, comprising the following steps:

12. The method according to claim 11 , wherein the reaction in Step 1 . is stopped at a point where the weight ratio of DG/MG in the reaction mixture [DGr/MGr, hereinafter] is at least 2.00, preferably at least 2.10.

13. A method for preapring the composition according to any of the claims 1 to 10, comprising the following steps:

14. The method according to claim 13, wherein the reaction in Step 1 is stopped at a point where the weight ratio of DG/MG in the reaction mixture [DGr/MGr, hereinafter] is at least 2.20, preferably at least 2.30.

15. The method according to claim 13 or claim 14, wherein the 1 - 3 specific lipase enzyme is derived from Rhizopus oryzae or from Rhizomucor miehei or from Rhizopus delemar, or from Rhizopus niveus, or from Rhizopus japonicus, or from Mucor japonicus, or from Aspergillus niger, or from Alcaligenes species, or the enzyme is a lipase derived from rice bran, or a lipase of animal origin from the pancreas, or a combination of the foregoing.

16. The method according to any of the claims 11 to 15, wherein Step 2. comprises a fractionation, wherein at least two fractions are formed with different melting points and wherein after removal of the high-melting fractions, the glyceride mixture as comprised in the composition according to any of the claims 1 to 10, is characterized by a weight ratio DG/MG which is at least 10.0 %, preferably at least 15.0 %, more preferably at least 20.0 %, most preferably at least 25.0 % higher than the weight ratio of DGr/MGr in the reaction mixture obtained in Step 1 .

17. The method according to any of the claims 11 to 16, wherein the fat used in Step 1 is at least 70 wt. % of shea origin, preferably at least 80 wt. %, most preferably at least 90 wt. % of shea origin.

18. The method according to any of the claims 13 to 15, wherein in Step 2. the removal of the high-melting fraction is carried out by a dry fractionation step.

19. Use of the composition according to any of the claims 1 to 10 for preparing an emulsified product.

20. Use according to claim 19, characterized in that the emulsified product comprises, relative to the total glyceride content in the emulsified product, an amount of glycerides from the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 which is at least 30.0 wt. %, preferably at least 40.0 wt. %, preferably at least 50.0 wt. %.

21 . Use of the composition according to any of the claims 1 to 10 for preparing a care product.

22. Use according to claim 21 , characterized in that the care product comprises, relative to the total glyceride content in the care product, an amount of glycerides from the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 which is at least 30.0 wt. %, preferably at least 40.0 wt. %, preferably at least 50.0 wt. %.

23. Use according to claim 21 or claim 22, characterized in that the care product is selected from the group consisting of a cream, a lotion, a balm, an ointment, a body milk, a gel, a massage oil, a shampoo, a hair conditioner, a lipstick, a shower gel, a cleansing oil, a make-up product.

24. Use according to any of the claims 21 to 23, characterized in that the care product is a product for skin care, wherein the skin care product is preferably a hydrating ointment or cream.

25. Use according to claim 21 or claim 22, wherein the care product is characterized by having a continuous fat phase, wherein the care product preferably comprises a maximum of 15.0 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 10.0 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 5.0 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 3.0 wt. % water, relative to the total weight of the care product.

26. Use according to any of the claims 21 to 25, characterized in that the care product comprises, relative to the total glyceride content in the care product, an amount of glycerides from shea origin of at least 40.0 wt. %, preferably at least 50.0 wt. %, more preferably at least 60.0 wt. %, more preferably at least 65.0 wt. %.

27. Use according to any of the claims 21 to 26, characterized in that the care product comprises, relative to the total weight of the care product, a content of ingredients from shea origin of at least 10.0 wt. %, preferably at least 12.0 wt. %, preferably at least 15.0 wt. %.

28. Use according to claim 25, characterized in that the care product is a liquid oil comprising at most 5.0 wt. % water, wherein said care product has a melting point lower than 25 °C, preferably lower than 23 °C, preferably lower than 20 °C, said care product being at least 80 wt. %, preferably at least 85 wt. %, more preferably at least 90 wt. %, most preferably at least 95 wt. % of shea origin.

29. Use according to any of claims 21 to 28, characterized in that the care product comprises, relative to the total weight of the care product, a content of ingredients of synthetic origin of at most 5.0 wt. %, preferably at most 3.0 wt. %, preferably at most 2.0 wt. %, preferably at most 1 .0 wt.%, preferably at most 0.5 wt. %.

30. An emulsified product characterized in that the emulsified product is prepared by using the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, and wherein the emulsified product comprises, relative to the total glyceride content in the emulsified product, an amount of glycerides originating from the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, of at least 30.0 wt. %, preferably at least 40.0 wt. %, preferably at least 50.0 wt. %.

31. A care product characterized in that the care product is prepared by using the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, and wherein the care product comprises, relative to the total glyceride content in the care product, an amount of glycerides originating from the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, of at least 30.0 wt. %, preferably at least 40.0 wt. %, preferably at least 50.0 wt. %.

32. A care product comprising the emulsified product according to claim 30.

33. The care product according to claim 31 or claim 32, characterized in that the care product is selected from the group consisting of a cream, a lotion, a balm, an ointment, a body milk, a gel, a massage oil, a shampoo, a hair conditioner, a lipstick, a shower gel, a cleansing oil, a make-up product.

34. The care product according to any one of claims 31 to 33, characterized in that the care product is a skin care product, wherein the skin care product is preferably a hydrating ointment or cream.

35. The care product according to claim 31 , characterized by having a continuous fat phase, wherein the care product preferably comprises a maximum of 15.0 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 10.0 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 5.0 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 3.0 wt. % water, relative to the total weight of the care product.

36. The care product according to any one of claims 31 to 35, characterized in that the care product comprises, relative to the total glyceride content in the care product, an amount of glycerides of shea origin of at least 40.0 wt. %, preferably at least 50.0 wt. %, more preferably at least 60.0 wt. %, more preferably at least 65.0 wt. %.

37. The care product according to any one of claims 31 to 36, characterized in that the care product comprises, relative to the total weight of the care product, a content of ingredients of shea origin of at least 10.0 wt. %, preferably at least 12.0 wt. %, preferably at least 15.0 wt. %.

38. The care product according to claim 35, characterized in that the care product is a liquid oil comprising at most 5.0 wt. % water, wherein said care product has a melting point lower than 25 °C, preferably lower than 23 °C, preferably lower than 20 °C, whereby the care product is at least 80 wt. %, preferably at least 85 wt.%, more preferably at least 90 wt.%, most preferably at least 95 wt. % of shea origin.

39. The care product according to any one of claims 31 to 38, characterized in that the care product comprises, relative to the total weight of the care product, a content of ingredients of synthetic origin of at most 5.0 wt. %, preferably at most 3.0 wt. %, preferably at most 2.0 wt. %, preferably at most 1 .0 wt.%, preferably at most 0.5 wt. %.