WO2024086915A1 - Formulations de soins du visage sans eau - Google Patents

Formulations de soins du visage sans eau Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2024086915A1
WO2024086915A1 PCT/CA2023/051293 CA2023051293W WO2024086915A1 WO 2024086915 A1 WO2024086915 A1 WO 2024086915A1 CA 2023051293 W CA2023051293 W CA 2023051293W WO 2024086915 A1 WO2024086915 A1 WO 2024086915A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin care
oil
care formulation
formulation
extract
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CA2023/051293
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Hans DROUIN
Original Assignee
BERNIER, Jean-François
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by BERNIER, Jean-François filed Critical BERNIER, Jean-François
Publication of WO2024086915A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024086915A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87—Application Devices; Containers; Packaging

Definitions

  • a skin care formulation comprising less than ⁇ 1% in wt of water and packaged in a cardboard.
  • a skin care formulation comprising less than 1 % in weight of water and a hardness value of up to 85 PU.
  • the skin care formulation has a hardness value of between 20 to 85 PU.
  • the formulation encompassed herein comprises at least one wax.
  • the formulation encompassed herein comprises between 1 to 50% in wt of the at least one wax, more preferably comprising between 5 to 40% in wt of the at least one wax.
  • the formulation encompassed herein comprises a sunflower wax, more preferably between 1 to 25% in wt of sunflower wax, or between 1 to 20% in wt of sunflower wax.
  • the formulation encompassed herein comprises an oil, comprises between 1 to 50% in wt of oil, and more preferably between 5 to 50% in wt of oil.
  • the oil grape seed oil is at least one of grape seed oil, evening primrose oil, argan oil, safflower oil, olive oil, moringa oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, and a combination thereof.
  • the formulation encompassed herein comprises an emollient, preferably between 1 to 60% by wt of emollient, more preferably 5 to 55% by wt of emollient.
  • the emollient is at least one of octyldodecanol, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, Celtiol® Ultimate, oleyl lactate, dicaprylil ether, caprylil glycol, magnolol, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyldodecyl myristate, caprylic, capric triglyceride, glyceryl caprylate, caprylhydroxamic acid, caprylate, and a combination thereof.
  • the formulation encompassed herein comprises an active molecule.
  • the active molecule is at least one of zinc oxide, polyhydroxystearic acid, hydrolyzed soy protein, rice amino acids, L-proline, sodium benzoate, hydrolyzed adansonia digitata seed extract, glycerin, Nasturtium Officinale extract, glycogen, phytoglycogen, Laminaria Digitata extract, Marix Limus (sea silt) extract, panthenol, Palmaria Palmata extract, plankton extract, Crithmum Maritumum extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum extract, Fucus Vesiculosus extract, Laminaria Saccharina extract, Ecklonia Cava extract, polyglycery 1-10 oleate, sorbitan palmitate, 3- o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Magnolol, Honokiol, Montmorillonite, peptide, arrow-root powder, and a combination thereof.
  • the formulation encompassed herein further comprises a butter, such as e.g. at least one of Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) butter, olus oil (vegetable oil), and Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) seed butter.
  • a butter such as e.g. at least one of Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) butter, olus oil (vegetable oil), and Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) seed butter.
  • the formulation encompassed herein comprises at least 2%, more preferably between 7 to 22% by wt of butter.
  • the formulation encompassed herein further comprises a surfactant.
  • the surfactant is at least one of sucrose laurate, sucrose stearate, coco-glucoside, sodium cocoyl isethionate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, and a combination thereof.
  • the formulation encompassed herein comprises up to 14.5% by wt of surfactant.
  • the formulation encompassed herein further comprises a humectant.
  • the humectant is glycerin or propanediol.
  • the formulation encompassed herein comprises up to 15% by wt of humectant.
  • a skin care product comprising a packaging and the skin care formulation as defined herein.
  • the packaging is a cardboard packaging.
  • the skin care formulation is packaged in the cardboard by hot filling.
  • the product is a facial cream for day and/or night, a moisturizing eye cream, skin serum, a makeup remover, a face exfoliant, a face mask, a facial cleanser, a facial foundation, a facial tinted oil, a facial tanner, a facial dark circles concealer, a blush, a lip gloss, a facial illuminator, or a face oil product.
  • a skin care formulation comprising less than 1 % in weight of water; a hardness value of up to 85 PU; between 1 to 25% in wt of sunflower wax; and between 1 to 50% in wt of oil.
  • Fig. 1 is a picture of two formats of a skin care formulation in accordance to an embodiment packaged in a cardboard.
  • a skin care formulation comprising less than ⁇ 1% in wt of water. Accordingly, the skin care formulation provided is packaged in a plastic-free container such as a cardboard container, and is made of ingredients from vegetable or mineral sources (natural), without water ( ⁇ 1%).
  • the formulation described herein comprises less than ⁇ 1% in wt of water and a hardness value of up to 85 PU. It is provided a kit comprising the formulation described herein and a cardboard packaging.
  • the skin care formulation comprises at least one wax, preferably between 1 to 50% in wt of the at least one wax.
  • Sunflower wax is used for its properties of freeze/thaw resistance, for the harder structure. Sunflower wax provides interesting sensory texture and stability to the finished product in absence of water. On the contrary, candallila wax which is commonly used in the market did not result in products with satisfactory properties. It gave brittle, crumbly products that adhere to the cardboard packaging.
  • the formulation comprises between 1 to 25% in wt of sunflower wax.
  • the skin care formulation described herein further comprises an acticire or further wax.
  • Acticire encompassed herewith can be formulated as comprising sunflower wax.
  • Such further wax can be e.g. Jojoba Esters, Acacia Decurrens Flower wax, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax, or Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) fruit wax.
  • the formulation comprises between 5 to 36.5% by wt of a further wax.
  • the formulation provided herein meet the following quality criteria which are density and hardness (measured with a penetrometer), and stability under various conditions (freeze/thaw, room temperature, 40°C stability).
  • the hardness value of the final product is up to 85 PU, preferably between 20 to 85 PU.
  • the formulation provided herein allows packaging by hot filling in a cardboard because of its adhesion properties once solidified to the walls of the package. Minimum product absorption is noticed through packaging and there is no leakage under the container/cardboard packaging.
  • the skin care formulation 12 as encompassed herein can be packaged in different formats (10 and 10’) in a cardboard 12.
  • the formulation provided herein has the proper sensory effect on the skin when applied. Its surface appearance, homogeneity between the center and the sides of the product, as well as the top and the under portion of the formulation packaged, and smell are all as expected for a skin care formulation.
  • the formulation comprises an oil, preferably grape seed oil.
  • Grape seed oil is used because of its solidification point (fusion) of less than -18°C, which allows to adjust freeze/thaw stability issues and maintain acceptable hardness despite time and temperature exposures.
  • the oil can be selected from evening primrose oil, argan oil, safflower oil, olive oil, moringa oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, and/or a combination thereof.
  • the formulation comprises between 1 to 50% in wt of oil.
  • the skin care formulation can comprise an emollient or gelling agent.
  • the emollient is selected from octyldodecanol, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, Celtiol® Ultimate, oleyl lactate, dicaprylil ether, caprylil glycol, magnolol, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyldodecyl myristate, caprylic, capric triglyceride, glyceryl caprylate, caprylhydroxamic acid, caprylate, and/or a combination thereof.
  • the formulation comprises between 1 to 60% by wt of an emollient.
  • the skin care formulation can comprise a butter such as e.g. but not limited to, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) butter, olus oil (vegetable oil), or Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) seed butter.
  • the formulation comprises between 7 to 22% by wt of a butter.
  • the acticire is used to disperse propandiol in oil.
  • the advantage of propandiol in a product which does not contain water is to offer hydration (because propandiol is a humectant) and moreover, this ingredient increases the penetration of active ingredients into the skin making the product even more efficient.
  • the skin care formulation comprises an active molecule.
  • active molecule is selected from, but not limited to, zinc oxide, polyhydroxystearic acid, hydrolyzed soy protein, rice amino acids, L-proline, sodium benzoate, hydrolyzed adansonia digitata seed extract, glycerin, Nasturtium Officinale extract, glycogen, phytoglycogen, Laminaria Digitata extract, Marix Limus (sea silt) extract, panthenol, Palmaria Palmata extract, plankton extract, Crithmum Maritumum extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum extract, Fucus Vesiculosus extract, Laminaria Saccharina extract, Ecklonia Cava extract, polyglycery 1-10 oleate, sorbitan palmitate, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Magnolol, Honokiol, Montmorillonite, peptide, or arrow-root powder.
  • zinc oxide zinc oxide
  • the skin care formulation encompassed herein can comprise further a surfactant, such as but not limited to, sucrose laurate, sucrose stearate, coco-glucoside, sodium cocoyl isethionate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate.
  • the skin care formulation encompassed herein can comprises up to 14.5% by wt of a surfactant.
  • the skin care formulation encompassed herein can comprise a humectant such as e.g. but not limited to, glycerin or propanediol, and more particularly up to 15% by wt of a humectant.
  • a humectant such as e.g. but not limited to, glycerin or propanediol, and more particularly up to 15% by wt of a humectant.
  • sodium stearate which is known to give structure and make a solid liquid once cooled, when used in the formulation provide herewith, generated structure that did not offer the desired stability when packaged in a cardboard. Indeed, there was a lot of adhesion and the packaging soaked of the product. In addition, there was a phenomenon of syneresis. Similarly, sucrose laurate when mixed in the formulation described herein produced phase shifts and a texture that was too soft. Further known emulsifiers were also incorporated to improve the stability, without success.
  • the skin care formulation which allows packaging in a cardboard through hot filling of a homogeneous suspension.
  • the skin care formulation is a facial cream for day and/or night, a moisturizing eye cream, skin serum, a makeup remover, a face exfoliant, a face mask, a facial cleanser or a face oil product.
  • an oil or a mixture of oil such as safflower oil, sunflower oil, and/or grapeseed oil is/are added and heated up to for example 50-70°C and mixed continuously at 200-300 RPM.
  • Pelemol OL oleyl lactate
  • Cetiol OE dicaprylil ether
  • Prodhysoft ABK olus oil or vegetable oil
  • Sucragel CF commercial mixture of Glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, water and sucrose laurate
  • Sucragel CF is agitated in order to form a vortex.
  • Sisterna SP70C sucrose stearate is added slowly into the vortex until homogenization is attain, resulting in a first premix.
  • the first premix is then added gradually to the main reservoir, at a temperature ofabout 50-70°C. Agitation is again slightly increased between 300-500 RPM to avoid foam formation and insure homogenization of the mixtures. Once homogenization is attain, the temperature in the main reservoir is then increased to 80- 85°C and the sunflower wax is incorporated, still under agitation at 300-500 RPM, until homogenization. Kester wax BWR (Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) fruit wax) and subsequently Purity 21 C (Zea Mays corn starch - a structuring agent) are then incorporated, under a temperature of 80-90°C and under agitation at 300-500 RPM, until homogenization. Afterwards, once the content of the main reservoir is homogenous, temperature is reduced to 50-70°C.
  • Cetiol Ultimate (undecane and tridecane - exfoliate agent), is incorporated, liquefying the mixture in the main reservoir. Cetiol Ultimate is incorporated under agitation at 300-400 RPM.
  • Canadian Dulse extract GLB-7189 (glycerin and Palmaria Palmate extract - active ingredients) is agitated to create a vortex. Panthenol is added gradually to the vortex until homogenization.
  • PhytoSpherix (phytoglycogen), CollaPlant Z NPNF (mixture of water, hydrolyzed soy protein/rice amino acids, L-proline, sodium benzoate and hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract) and Nio-VCS vitamin C (Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Sorbitan Palmitate, 3-o-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Magnolol and Honokiol) are added to the vortex in order to produce a second premixture.
  • the second premixture is then added gradually to the main reservoir at a temperature of about 50-70°C under an agitation of about 300-400 RPM.
  • Radigar CT-R anti-oxidant containing caprylic, capric, triglycerides and Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
  • Spectrastat emollient containing glyceryl caprylate, glycerin and caprylhydroxamic acid
  • the final cream product is controlled to ensure quality before packaging (white/cream color, uniform cream and a density of about 0.8-0.9).
  • the product is transferred into a common filler apparatus.
  • the temperature of the product is controlled and the product remains homogeneous during hot filling of the cardboard packages.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une formulation de soin de la peau comprenant moins de < 1 % en poids d'eau. Ainsi, la formulation de soin de la peau de l'invention est conditionnée dans un contenant sans plastique tel qu'un contenant en carton et est constituée d'ingrédients provenant de sources végétales ou minérales (naturelles), sans eau (< 1 %) et ayant une valeur de dureté allant jusqu'à 85 PU.
PCT/CA2023/051293 2022-10-24 2023-09-29 Formulations de soins du visage sans eau WO2024086915A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US202263380610P 2022-10-24 2022-10-24
US63/380,610 2022-10-24

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2024086915A1 true WO2024086915A1 (fr) 2024-05-02

Family

ID=90829565

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/CA2023/051293 WO2024086915A1 (fr) 2022-10-24 2023-09-29 Formulations de soins du visage sans eau

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2024086915A1 (fr)

Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5744146A (en) * 1995-03-06 1998-04-28 Peters; Kimberly T. Anhydrous delivery vehicle for cosmetic ingredients
CN105581915A (zh) * 2016-03-05 2016-05-18 广州丹奇日用化工厂有限公司 一种中药成分的皮脂膜修复型卸妆膏及其制备方法
CN107595679A (zh) * 2017-10-09 2018-01-19 澳宝化妆品（惠州）有限公司 一种变色唇膏及其制备方法
CN107744498A (zh) * 2017-12-08 2018-03-02 中山市美源化妆品有限公司 一种保湿口红配方
US20180228721A1 (en) * 2017-02-15 2018-08-16 Jonah Love Functional and capable cosmetic compositions, that are appeasing to the senses, particularly visual and psyche, useful for social interaction, suitable for topical skin care application, and other applications, and methods of making same
CN108721146A (zh) * 2018-06-28 2018-11-02 广州澳希亚实业有限公司 抑制乳木果脂在唇膏中结晶析出的组合物及含有该组合物的润唇膏
CN110101601A (zh) * 2019-04-28 2019-08-09 广州科恩生物技术有限公司 一种滋润唇釉
US20200093721A1 (en) * 2018-09-25 2020-03-26 L'oreal Compositions with natural oils for providing a protective barrier
WO2020128490A1 (fr) * 2018-12-20 2020-06-25 Cosmetic Warriors Limited Composition cosmétique solide contenant des beurres végétaux

Patent Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5744146A (en) * 1995-03-06 1998-04-28 Peters; Kimberly T. Anhydrous delivery vehicle for cosmetic ingredients
CN105581915A (zh) * 2016-03-05 2016-05-18 广州丹奇日用化工厂有限公司 一种中药成分的皮脂膜修复型卸妆膏及其制备方法
US20180228721A1 (en) * 2017-02-15 2018-08-16 Jonah Love Functional and capable cosmetic compositions, that are appeasing to the senses, particularly visual and psyche, useful for social interaction, suitable for topical skin care application, and other applications, and methods of making same
CN107595679A (zh) * 2017-10-09 2018-01-19 澳宝化妆品（惠州）有限公司 一种变色唇膏及其制备方法
CN107744498A (zh) * 2017-12-08 2018-03-02 中山市美源化妆品有限公司 一种保湿口红配方
CN108721146A (zh) * 2018-06-28 2018-11-02 广州澳希亚实业有限公司 抑制乳木果脂在唇膏中结晶析出的组合物及含有该组合物的润唇膏
US20200093721A1 (en) * 2018-09-25 2020-03-26 L'oreal Compositions with natural oils for providing a protective barrier
WO2020128490A1 (fr) * 2018-12-20 2020-06-25 Cosmetic Warriors Limited Composition cosmétique solide contenant des beurres végétaux
CN110101601A (zh) * 2019-04-28 2019-08-09 广州科恩生物技术有限公司 一种滋润唇釉

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