WO2024068936A1 - Composition cosmétique de soin capillaire comprenant des silicones aminées particulières et des silicones supplémentaires, et procédé de traitement cosmétique des cheveux - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique de soin capillaire comprenant des silicones aminées particulières et des silicones supplémentaires, et procédé de traitement cosmétique des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024068936A1
WO2024068936A1 PCT/EP2023/077073 EP2023077073W WO2024068936A1 WO 2024068936 A1 WO2024068936 A1 WO 2024068936A1 EP 2023077073 W EP2023077073 W EP 2023077073W WO 2024068936 A1 WO2024068936 A1 WO 2024068936A1
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carbon atoms
alkyl
formula
weight
group
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PCT/EP2023/077073
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English (en)
Inventor
Sophie Bourel
Adrien BENAZZOUZ
Anne Dussaud
Aldo PIZZINO
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L'oreal
Momentive Performance Materials Inc.
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Publication of WO2024068936A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024068936A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Cosmetic hair care composition comprising particular amino silicones and addi- tional silicones, and cosmetic hair treatment process.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic hair care composition comprising one or more particular amino silicones and one or more additional silicones other than said particular amino silicones, and to a cosmetic hair treatment process using said compo- sition.
  • the hair is sensitive to many types of attack and can be embrittled and damaged to various extents by the external environment, in particular by the action of atmospheric agents such as light, atmospheric pollution and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-wav- ing and/or relaxing, or even repeated washing.
  • the aim of the invention is therefore to propose a cosmetic hair care composition which solves the above-mentioned problems, and in particular will provide a high level of care and conditioning to the hair, in particular to the most damaged hair, these effects being discernible even at low contents of amino silicone.
  • Another aim of the present invention is to propose compositions which are effective in terms of the cosmetic properties given to the hair, both at the time of application and also in a manner that lasts over time.
  • One subject of the present invention is a cosmetic hair care composition, comprising: - one or more amino silicones of formula (I) as defined below; and - one or more silicones other than the amino silicones of formula (I).
  • the composition according to the invention is easy to rinse off, making it possible to avoid using large quantities of water to eliminate it, where appropriate, for example when the composition is in the form of a shampoo or condi- tioner to be rinsed off.
  • it gives a good level of care, in particular a smooth nature to the touch and visually, softness, a uniform coating from the root to the end, and therefore repair of damaged ends, and also ultimately a clean and natural feel to the hair, without weighing it down.
  • the care and repair benefits are highly pronounced, while maintain- ing added value in terms of lightness and cleanliness.
  • cosmetic hair care composition means a cosmetic composition for washing (or cleansing) the hair and/or for conditioning the hair.
  • Said composition may be in any form that can be envisaged by those skilled in the art, and may comprise the additional ingredients customarily employed in this type of com- position.
  • This cosmetic hair care composition may be, for example, a shampoo, a pre-shampoo (to be applied before a shampoo), a conditioner, a hair mask, a hair serum, it being possible for these compositions to be rinsed off or left in after application.
  • the composition may be in the form of gels, hair lotions and care creams which are relatively thick.
  • the cosmetic hair care composition is advanta- geously a pre-shampoo, a conditioner, a hair mask, a hair serum, it being possible for these compositions to be rinsed off or left on after application.
  • the composition may therefore comprise, in a known manner, one or more surfactants, one or more non-silicone fatty substances, one or more polymers, one or more thick- eners, one or more polyols, and a mixture of these various ingredients.
  • Mw weight-average
  • R which is identical or different, represents a methyl group and/or a hy- droxyl radical.
  • the two radicals R are identical and represent a methyl group or a hydroxyl radical, even better still a methyl radical.
  • R’ represents a methyl group.
  • A is a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; better still, a linear group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -).
  • the values of n and m are chosen such that the amino silicone has an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.29 meq/g and a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 10000 to 100000.
  • the amino silicone of formula (I) has an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.25 meq/g, better still ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq/g, and even better still ranging from 0.1 to 0.16 meq/g.
  • the amino silicone of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 20000 to 70000, better still from 25000 to 50000, even better still from 35000 to 45000.
  • Mw weight-average molecular mass
  • n is between 1.4 and 13, better still between 1.4 and 9, even better still between 1.5 and 5, and the n/m ratio is between 45 and 330, better still between 100 and 300.
  • the value of n can thus readily be determined on the basis of all this data; in particular, n can be between 400 and 600.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones of formula (I):
  • (I) - A is a linear or branched divalent alkylene group comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; preferably a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -), the amino silicone has an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq/g and a weight- average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 25000 to 50000.
  • Mw weight- average molecular mass
  • m is between 1.4 and 13
  • the n/m ratio is between 45 and 300
  • n can be between 400 and 600.
  • the amino silicone of formula (I) preferably has a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25°C, 1 atm, ranging from 2 to 8 Pa.s (2000-8000 cps), better still from 3 to 6 Pa.s (3000-6000 cps), even better still from 3 to 5 Pa.s.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises the amino silicone(s) of formula (I) in a total content which can range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.002% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.005% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferentially from 0.02% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amino silicone of formula (I) can be prepared by any means conventionally em- ployed in the silicone industry.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more additional sili- cones, which may in particular be chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional silicone(s) are other than the amino silicones of formula (I) as defined above. This means that said additional silicones do not come under the definition of formula (I), for example because they do not have an amine number and/or molecular mass as defined for the silicones of formula (I) and/or because the definition of at least one of their radicals R, R’ and/or A is other than those indicated for the silicones of formula (I), or else because they have a different chemical structure to that of the silicones of formula (I).
  • the composition according to the invention may thus comprise one or more non-amino silicones, which may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), and volatile or nonvolatile.
  • the non-amino silicones are chosen from nonvolatile liquid silicones.
  • the non-amino silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composi- tion according to the invention; they may be in oil, wax, resin or gum form; silicone oils and gums are preferred. Silicones are particularly described in detail in Walter Noll’s “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press.
  • the volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure, 1 atm) and in particular from: i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5).
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5).
  • cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic compounds such as the mix- ture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of 1,1’-oxy(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexatri- methylsilyloxy)bisneopentane;
  • nonvolatile silicones mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polyd- ialkylsiloxanes and particularly polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydi- arylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also non-amino or- ganopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and pref- erably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypro- pylene groups.
  • PDMS or dimethicone polydi- arylsiloxanes
  • polyalkylarylsiloxanes silicone gums and resins
  • the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, particularly polydiphen- ylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsilox- anes.
  • organopolysiloxanes in- cluding include - polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally including C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, and particularly those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet ® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide; or alternatively (C 12 )alkylmethicone copolyols, and partic- ularly those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200; - thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee; - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F- 755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax ® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt; - hydroxylated
  • CFA dimethylsilanol end groups
  • Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mix- tures such as: - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxyl-terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclome- thicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Corning.
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • CTFA cyclic polydimethylsiloxane
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydi- methyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 ⁇ 10 -5 to 5 ⁇ 10 -2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • the non-amino silicones that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone).
  • CTFA trimethylsilyl end groups
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional amino silicones other than the amino silicones of formula (I) as defined above.
  • amino silicone denotes any silicone including at least one primary, second- ary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • the amino silicones that may be used according to the present invention may be vola- tile or nonvolatile and cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5 ⁇ 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C, for example from 1 ⁇ 10 -5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the additional amino silicones are chosen from nonvolatile liquid silicones (25°C, 1 atm).
  • the amino silicone(s) are chosen, alone or as mixtures, from the following compounds: A) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (Ia): weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g/mol; B) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (IIa): R’ a G 3-a -Si(OSiG 2 ) n -(OSiG b R’ 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a’ -R’ a’ (IIa) in which: - G, which is identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, C 1 -C 8 alkyl, for example methyl, or C 1 -C 8 alkoxy, for example methoxy, group; - a and a’, which are identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in partic- ular 0, with the proviso that at least one of a and a’ is
  • the amino silicones of formula (IIa) may be chosen from: (i) the “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III): (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, pref- to to better still from 50 to 150; it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149 and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; (ii) the silicones of formula (IV) below: - m n are sum + ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and particularly from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m de- noting a number from 1 to 1000, particularly from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - R 1 , R 2 and R 3 , which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C 1 -C
  • the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
  • the hydroxyl/alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol; (iii) the silicones of formula (V) below: - from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, particularly from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, particularly from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - R 1 and R 2 , which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R 1 or R 2 denoting an alkoxy radical.
  • the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
  • the hydroxyl/alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g/mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100000 g/mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g/mol.
  • the commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones, the structure of which is different from formula (IV) or (V).
  • a product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.
  • a product containing amino silicones of structure (V) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
  • Another product containing amino silicones of structure (XIV) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants.
  • the surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic.
  • the number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.
  • a silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning;
  • This radical is preferably branched.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200000 g/mol.
  • a silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning;
  • - R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, particularly a C 1 -C 18 alkylene rad- ical or a divalent C 1 -C 18 , for example C 1 -C 8 , alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via a SiC bond;
  • - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, particularly chloride, or an organic acid salt, par- ticularly
  • silicones are for example described in patent application EP-A-0530974; men- tion may in particular be made of the silicone having the INCI name: Quaternium 80. Silicones falling within this category are the silicones sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474; E) the amino silicones of formula (X): - R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , which are identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g; F) the multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB) n type, A being a polysilox-
  • Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae: [-(SiMe 2 O) x SiMe 2 -R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b -R’-N(H)-R-] or else [-(SiMe 2 O) x SiMe 2 -R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b -] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more partic- ularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R’’ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, which are identical or different,
  • the siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.
  • the amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g/mol and more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g/mol. Mention may particularly be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.
  • A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - and -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexa- decyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R 1 and R 2 , which are identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
  • - x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000; - y ranges from 1 to 100; - A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and particularly 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 and -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -; and - R 1 and R 2 independently are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particularly chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R 1 and R 2 , which are identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (
  • a silicone of formula (XII) that is preferred is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive. H) polysiloxanes and particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, including primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): average molecular
  • amino silicones of formula (XIV) mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS- 1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu.
  • n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.
  • amino silicones of formula (XV) mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.
  • the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000.
  • amino silicones of formula (XVI) mention may be made of the ami- nopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to formula (XVIII) below: and 500, better still be- tween 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80; - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5; - R’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; - R’’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; and - R’’’, which are identical or different, preferably identical, are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; it being possible for said radicals optionally to be substituted with one or more hydroxyl OH groups.
  • R' is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; particularly a -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 - or –CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )- radical.
  • R’’ is a linear divalent alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular a -CH 2 -CH 2 - radical.
  • the R’’’ which are identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, particu- larly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, C13, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals; prefer- entially, the R’’, which are identical or different, are chosen from saturated linear alkyl radicals having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly C13, C14 or C15 radicals, alone or as a mixture, and better still represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15.
  • the R’’’ are identical.
  • the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which: - n is a number between 50 and 80; - m is a number between 1 and 5; - R’’’, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; - R’ is a divalent alkylene radical having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; - R’’ is a linear divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which: - n is a number between 50 and 80; - m is a number between 1 and 5; - R’’’, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms; - R’ is a –(CH 2 ) 3 -, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 - or –CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )- radical, and - R’’ is a -(CH 2 ) 2 - radical.
  • a most particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG- Amodimethicone (INCI name).
  • the additional silicone(s) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from non- volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and particularly polydialkylsiloxanes and more par- ticularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups; and/or nonvolatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones, ami- nopropyldimethicones and bis-aminopropyldimethicones, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises the additional sili- cone(s) other than the amino silicones of formula (1), in a total content preferably rang- ing from 0.01% to 2% by weight, better still ranging from 0.02% to 1% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises the additional sili- cone(s) chosen, alone or as a mixture, from nonvolatile liquid non-amino silicones, and particularly polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in partic- ular polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups; and/or nonvolatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones, aminopropyldimethicones and bis-ami- nopropyldimethicones, and also mixtures thereof; in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, better still ranging from 0.02% to 1% by weight and pref- erentially ranging from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com- position.
  • nonvolatile liquid non-amino silicones and particularly polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in partic- ular polydimethylsilox
  • composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more cationic surfactants.
  • Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-O groups. They are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, optionally polyoxyalkyle- nated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds, which are quaternary ammonium salts: - the compounds corresponding to the general formula (II) below: + R 1 R 2 X (II) X- is an anion, particularly chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (C 1 -C 4 )alkylsulfonates or (C 1 -C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates; the groups R 1 to R 4 , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 1 to R 4 denoting a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms, particularly such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C 1 -C 30 alkyl, C 1 -C 30 alkoxy, (C 2 -C 6 ) polyoxyalkylene, C 1 -C 30 alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 )alkylamido(C 2 -C 6 )al- kyl, (C 12 -C 22 )alkyl acetate, and C 1 -C 30 hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • tetraalkylammonium salts for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrime- thylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group includes from approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammo- nium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylce- tearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts such as those sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dy
  • the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds are preferred in particular to use.
  • the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline such as those of formula (III): R + 6 from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 7 repre- sents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sul- fates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably com- prise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R 7 denotes a methyl group and R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids
  • R 7 denotes a methyl group
  • R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo.
  • R 10 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R 9a )(R 10a )(R 11a )N-(CH 2 ) 3 , with R 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 , which are iden- tical or different, being chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 - C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (C 1 -C 4 )alkylsulfonates and (C 1 -C 4 )
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Qua- ternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75).
  • - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function such as those of formula (V) below: (C s H O) R O 2s z 18 + or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R 16 is chosen from the group R 19 -C(O)-; groups R 20 which are linear or branched, satu- rated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups; a hydrogen atom; R 18 is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; groups R 22 which are linear or branched, sat- urated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based groups; a hydrogen atom; R 17 , R 19 and R 21 , which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydro
  • the alkyl groups R 15 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R 15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particu- larly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 16 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 20 , it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 18 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 22 , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 17 , R 19 and R 21 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate.
  • anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.
  • R 15 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2;
  • R 16 is chosen from the group R 19 -C(O)-; methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and a hydrogen atom;
  • R 18 is chosen from the group R 21 -C(O)- and a hydrogen atom,
  • R 17 , R 19 and R 21 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear. Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (V) such as the di- acyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, mono- acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (particularly chloride or methyl sulfate), and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and originate more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • This ester- ification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sul- fate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sul- fate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide),
  • the hair care composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mix- ture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight ma- jority of diester salts.
  • Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by Kao under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • fatty amine means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)ox- yalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and com- prising at least one C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 8 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • the fatty amines which are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
  • Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines.
  • the amidoamines accord- ing to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
  • the term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
  • the term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C 6 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • the fatty amidoamines which are use- ful according to the invention are not quaternized.
  • the fatty amidoamines which are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
  • amidoamines which are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (VI) below: RCONHR’’N(R’) 2 (VI) in which: - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsatu- rated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C 5 -C 29 and preferably C 7 -C 23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C 5 -C 29 and preferably C 7 -C 23 alkenyl radical; - R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and - R’, which are identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon-
  • the fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl- dimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, particularly the product sold by the company Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostear- amidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethyl- amine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, dilinole- amidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl- dimethylamine, soyamidopropyldimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, minkamidopropyldimethylamine, oatamidopropyldime- thylamine, sesamidoprop
  • the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; even better still from those of formula (II) above.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium, for in- stance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group includes from approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrime- thylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrime- thylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxy- ethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.
  • salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraal
  • compositions according to the invention may comprise the cationic sur- factant(s) in a total content which ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, particularly from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Nonionic surfactants The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.
  • Said nonionic surfactants may be chosen from: - alcohols, ⁇ -diols and (C 1 -C 20 )alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups to range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups to range from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and particularly from 16 to 30 car- bon atoms; in particular, oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 to C 40 alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of eth- ylene oxide and including one or two fatty chains; - condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; - poly
  • Nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type may be represented by the following general formula: R 1 O-(R 2 O) t -(G) v in which: - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms and particularly 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms and particularly 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms; - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4; - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.
  • the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are of the formula described above in which: - R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0, - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose, - it being possible for the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, to range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
  • the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and pref- erably of 1-4 type.
  • the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly)glu- coside surfactant.
  • 1,4 C 8 /C 16 alkyl(poly)glucosides, and particularly decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
  • the oxyethylenated sorbitan esters that can be used in the context of the invention particularly comprise the oxyethylenated derivatives of C 8 -C 30 fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan, having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units.
  • Use is preferably made of the oxyethylenated derivatives of C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units.
  • Such compounds also known under the name of polysorbates. They are, inter alia, sold under the name Tween by the company Uniqema.
  • a “compound with X EO” denotes an oxyethylenated compound comprising X oxyethylene units per molecule.
  • the fatty acid of the oxyethylenated sorbitan ester is a saturated fatty acid, in particular a C 12 -C 24 saturated fatty acid.
  • the preferred sorbitan esters are the oxyethylenated derivatives of C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoesters of sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferentially oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate with 4 EO, oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate with 20 EO, oxyethylene sorbitan monostearate with 20 EO, and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C 6 -C 24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C 8 -C 18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides; and oxyeth- ylenated sorbitan esters, in particular those derived from C 12 -C 24 saturated fatty acids and comprising 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units.
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com- position.
  • Anionic surfactants The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more anionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • the anionic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants.
  • a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged spe- cies, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
  • the anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.
  • the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-) and do not comprise any sulfate or sulfonate functions;
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 – ) and may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylate functions, but do not comprise any sulfate functions; and - the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or - OSO3-).
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-). They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl)ether carboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these com- pounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denot- ing a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkyle- nated, in pairtcular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from
  • C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
  • carboxylic surfactants mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the Akypo names.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are pref- erably chosen from those of formula (1): R 1’ –(OC 2 H 4 ) n’ –OCH 2 COOA (1) in which: - R 1' represents a linear or branched C 6 -C 24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C 8 -C 9 )alkylphenyl radical, an R 2’ CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 - radical with R 2’ denoting a linear or branched C 9 -C 21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably R 1’ is a C 8 -C 20 , preferably C 8 -C 18 , alkyl radical; - n’ is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10, - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly pre- ferred are those of formula (1) in which: - R 1' denotes a linear or branched C 8 -C 22 , in particular C 10 -C 16 , or even C 12 -C 14 , alkyl radical, or else a (C 8 -C 9 )alkylphenyl radical; - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and - n’ ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
  • R 1' denotes a C 12 -C 14 alkyl radical or cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical
  • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • n’ ranges from 2 to 10.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: - in particular C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 acylglutamates, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate; - in particular C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 acylsarcosinates, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate; - in particular C 12 -C 28 or even C 14 -C 24 acyllactylates, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate; - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 acylglycinates; - (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl ether carboxylates, and particularly (C 12 -C 20 )alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those
  • Polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof are preferably used.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfonate func- tion (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 – ).
  • alkyl- sulfonates alkyl- sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl- amidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkyl- sulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, particularly polyoxy
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 olefin sulfonates; - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccin- ates; - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; - (C 6 -C 24 )acylisethionates and preferably (C 12 -C 18 )acylisethionates; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 -). They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, particularly polyoxy- ethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: - in particular C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 alkyl sulfates, and - in particular C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in par- ticular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt
  • ammonium salts such as the sodium or potassium salt
  • amine salts and in par- ticular amino alcohol salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkyl sulfates; - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkylsulfosuccinates; - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 olefin sulfonates; - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; - (C 6 -C 24 )acylisethionates and preferably (C 12 -C 18 )acylisethionates; - C 6 -C 24
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more ani- onic surfactants chosen from C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkyl sulfates; C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; these surfactants being more particularly in the form of alkali metal or al- kaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; and also mixtures thereof.
  • ani- onic surfactants chosen from C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkyl sulfates; C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; these surfactants being more particularly in the form of alkali metal or al- kaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; and also mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may also be free (0%) of sulfated sur- factants (sulfate free); in this case, it advantageously comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from, alone or as a mixture, - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkylsulfosuccinates; - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 olefin sulfonates; - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; - (C 6 -C 24 )acylisethionates and preferably (C 12 -C 18 )acylisethionates; - C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 acylsarcosinates; - (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C 12 -C 20 )alkyl ether carboxylates; in
  • the anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the compo- sition according to the invention in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, which may particularly range from 1% to 28% by weight, in particular from 2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 23% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight, even better still from 7% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composi- tion.
  • Amphoteric surfactants The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.
  • amphoteric surfactant means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.
  • amphoteric surfactant(s) that can be used in the context of the invention are non-silicone. Mention may in particular be made, alone or as a mixture, of (C 8 -C 20 )alkylbetaines, (C 8 - C 20 )alkylsulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaines and (C 8 -C 20 )alkyl- amido(C 6 -C 8 )alkylsulfobetaines.
  • They may also be chosen from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropi- onate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, diso- dium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropi- onic acid.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the com- pany Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
  • amphoteric surfactants use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 20 )alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaines such as cocami- dopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and the compounds of formula (C) such the salts, particularly the sodium salt, of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).
  • the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C 8 -C 20 )alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbeta- ine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amphoteric surfactant(s) are preferably present in the com- position according to the invention in a total amount which may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 12% by weight, particularly from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com- position.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants.
  • it may comprise: - one or more anionic surfactants chosen from C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkyl sulfates; C 6 -C 24 and in particular C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; and - one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from (C 8 -C 20 )alkylbetaines such as co- cobetaine, (C 8 -C 20 )alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-silicone fatty substances may optionally comprise one or more non- silicone fatty substances, which can be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.
  • non-silicone fatty substance means a fatty substance not containing any Si-O bonds.
  • solid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • the solid fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
  • the solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
  • “Fatty acid” means a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • the solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are particularly chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Said fatty acids are other than the (poly)hydroxylated carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms described previously.
  • “Fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • the solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated, and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that can be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: - myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
  • the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, be- henyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl- stearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; better still, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C 9 -C 26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C 9 -C 26 fatty alcohol.
  • these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carbox- ylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
  • Esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C 9 - C 26 alkyl palmitates, particularly myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmi- tate; C 9 -C 26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C 9 -C 26 alkyl stearates, particularly myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are cho- sen from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.
  • a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, hav- ing a melting point of greater than approximately 40°C and which may be up to 200°C, and having anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state.
  • the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composi- tion that comprises them a relatively opaque cloudy appearance.
  • the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fibre or sugarcane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
  • Mention may also be made of C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW. Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched C 8 to C 32 fatty chains.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, particularly the product manu- factured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso- Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coco- nut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, particularly the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, particularly the product manu- factured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso- Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coco- nut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, particularly the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
  • the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol may also be used.
  • a wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
  • Such a wax is particularly sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by Koster Keunen.
  • microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may particularly be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Pow- ders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroeth- ylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the
  • the waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter, shea butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
  • mineral waxes for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax
  • plant waxes for instance cocoa butter, shea butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax
  • Ceramides, or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
  • the ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C 16 -C 30 fatty acid;
  • - R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl) n group, a (galactosyl) m group or a sulfoga- lactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
  • the ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16 -C 22 fatty acids; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R 3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear C 15 group.
  • R 1 denotes a saturated or unsatu- rated alkyl radical derived from C 12 -C 22 fatty acids
  • R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfoga- lactosyl radical
  • 2-N- linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol
  • 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol 2-N-be- henoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol
  • 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingo- sine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldi
  • the liquid fatty substances have a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, prefer- ably of less than or equal to 20°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa). Advan- tageously, the liquid fatty substances are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
  • the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly have at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsatu- rated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated car- bon-carbon double bonds.
  • the liquid hydrocarbons may be C 6 to C 18 liquid hydrocarbons and be linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably chosen from C 8 -C 16 , particularly C 10 -C 14 , alkanes.
  • liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 car- bon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
  • the triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, mar- row oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil,
  • the liquid fatty alcohols may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsatu- rated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 car- bon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isos- tearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than the triglyc- erides mentioned above mention may particularly be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1 to C 26 or branched C 3 to C 26 , aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1 to C 26 or branched C 3 to C 26 , aliphatic monoalco- hols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
  • the esters of monoalcohols at least one of the alcohol or the acid, from which the esters of the invention are derived, is branched.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lac- tate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononano- ate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldode
  • ethyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isos- tearyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.
  • esters of C 4 to C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 to C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 to C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 to C 30 , preferably C 12 to C 22 , fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 to C 30 , preferably C 12 to C 22 , fatty acids.
  • sugar esters means oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without al- dehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • sugars examples include sucrose, glucose, galac- tose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, particularly alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for in- stance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen particularly from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 to C 30 and preferably C 12 to C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconju- gated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tet- raesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, particularly such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stea- rate esters.
  • ком ⁇ онент is made of monoesters and diesters and particularly sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or di-oleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates, and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.
  • the non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid esters of a fatty acid and/or a fatty alcohol other than triglyc- erides, liquid C 6 -C 18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; better still from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise the non-silicone fatty sub- stance(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, even better still from 3% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise the non-silicone fatty sub- stance(s), chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, even better still from 3% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more associative pol- ymers.
  • the associative polymers are non-ionic.
  • the term “polymer” means any compound derived from the polymerization by polycondensation or from the radical polymerization of monomers, at least one of which is other than an alkylene oxide, and of a monofunc- tional compound of formula RX, R denoting an optionally hydroxylated C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group, and X denoting a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl or ester group.
  • the term “associative polymer” means an amphiphilic polymer that is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules. It generally includes, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.
  • the associative polymers according to the invention are polymers comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the molecules of which are capa- ble, in the formulation medium, of associating with each other or with molecules of other compounds.
  • the fatty chain includes from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • a particular case of associative polymers is amphiphilic polymers, that is to say poly- mers including one or more hydrophilic parts or groups which make them water-soluble and one or more hydrophobic regions or groups (including at least one fatty chain) via which the polymers interact and assemble with each other or with other molecules.
  • hydrophobic group means a group or a polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain.
  • the hydrophobic group includes at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the hy- drocarbon-based hydrophobic group originates from a monofunctional compound.
  • the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as Steareth-100. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
  • fatty chain means a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain including at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • fatty for instance a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, means a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, including at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain
  • anionic associative polymers preference is particularly given to polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of C 1 -C 4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty- chain allyl ether of formula (I’) and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is preferably a copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as di- allyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacry- late or methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinking agent which is preferably a copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as di- allyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acryl
  • Salcare SC80 which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl
  • polymers are preferably chosen from those for which the hydrophilic unit of un- saturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) be- low: CH 2 C C OH (II) R CH 3 or C 2 H 5 , and for which the hydrophobic unit of (C 10 -C 30 )al- carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (III) below: CH 2 C C OR 3 (III) or C 2 H 5 and R 3 denotes a C 10 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 alkyl (C 10 -C 30 )
  • Alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids in accordance with the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate
  • anionic associative polymers use will more particularly be made of poly- mers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (III) described above in which R 2 denotes H or CH 3 , R 3 denotes an alkyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic un- saturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic un- saturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
  • anionic associative polymers of this type preference is more particularly given to those constituted of from 95% to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4% to 40% by weight of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or else to those constituted of from 98% to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1% to 4% by weight of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of cross- linking polymerizable monomer, such as those described previously.
  • ethoxylated (40 EO) behenyl alcohol ter- polymer particularly as a 25% aqueous dispersion, such as the product Viscophobe DB1000 sold by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical), having the INCI name Poly- acrylate-3.
  • copolymers including, among their monomers (i) an ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, such as acrylic acid or meth- acrylic acid, and (ii) an ester of ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, particularly acrylic or methacrylic acid, and of fatty alcohol, particularly C8-C32 oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, particularly comprising 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular 4 to 50, or even 10 to 40 EO. Mention may in particular made, as monomers, of behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylate comprising 10 to 40 EO, in particular 18 to 30 EO.
  • these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an ester of an ⁇ , ⁇ -mo- noethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C 1 -C 4 alcohol, particularly a C 1 -C 4 alkyl (meth)acrylate.
  • these copolymers comprise acrylic acid at least one C 1 -C 4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C 8 -C 32 alkyl (meth)acry- late monomer which is oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 100 mol EO, in particular from 4 EO, or even from 10 to 40 EO.
  • Aculyn 22 sold by the company Rohm and Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/ oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or also of Aculyn 28 sold by Rohm and Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkyle- nated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacry- late Copolymer), and also of the Novethix L-10 Polymer sold by Lubrizol; - (F) associative polymers including at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion.
  • Rohm and Haas is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acryl
  • polymers of this type mention may be made more especially of: - crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers including from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C 8 -C 16 )alkyl (meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-750899; - terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C 6 -C 8 )alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US5089578; - copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate, and also copol- ymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide
  • G associative polymers including at least one vinyllactam monomer and at least one ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, such as terpoly- mers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid and of C 1 -C 20 alkyl methacrylate, for ex- ample lauryl methacrylate, such as the product sold by the company ISP under the name Acrylidone® LM (INCI name: VP/Acrylates/Lauryl Methacrylate Co- polymer).
  • cationic associative polyurethanes which may be represented by the general for- mula (Ia) below: R-X-(P) n -[L-(Y) m ] r -L’-(P’) p -X’-R’ in which: R and R’, which are identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and X’, which are identical or different, represent a group including an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L”; L, L’ and L”, which are identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocy- anate; P and P’, which are identical or different, represent a group including an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in
  • the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the chain ends.
  • One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) described above, in which: R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X’ each represent a group L”, n and p are integers that are between 1 and 1000 inclusive, and L, L’, L”, P, P’, Y and m have the meanings given above.
  • the number-average molecular mass (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500000 inclusive, in particular between 1000 and 400000 inclusive and ideally between 1000 and 300000 inclusive.
  • the hydrocarbon-based group originates from a monofunctional com- pound.
  • the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon- based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
  • X and/or X' may represent one of the following formulae: 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, it being pos- sible for one or more of the carbon atoms to be replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P; R 1 and R 3 , which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical or an aryl radical, it being possible for at least one of the carbon atoms to be replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P; A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.
  • a halide for instance a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.
  • the groups L, L’ and L’’ represent a group of formula: Z C NH R 4 NH C Z O O - , - - R 4 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, it being pos- sible for one or more of the carbon atoms to be replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.
  • the groups P and P’ comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae:
  • R 6 , R 8 and R 9 have the same meanings as R 1 and R 3 defined above;
  • R 10 represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P; and
  • A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate.
  • Y the term “hydrophilic group” means a polymeric or non- polymeric water-soluble group. By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
  • hydrophilic polymer When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers.
  • the hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and particularly a poly(ethylene ox- ide) or poly(propylene oxide).
  • the cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds bearing functions containing labile hydrogen.
  • the functions containing labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate func- tions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively.
  • polyurethanes encompasses these three types of polymer, namely pol- yurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and also copolymers thereof.
  • a first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound including at least one unit bearing an amine function. This compound may be multifunctional, but the compound is preferentially difunctional, that is to say that, according to a preferential embodiment, this compound includes two labile hydro- gen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function.
  • a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the per- centage of multifunctional compounds is low may also be used.
  • this compound may include more than one unit containing an amine function. In this case, it is a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.
  • Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulae: HZ-(P) n -ZH or HZ-(P’) p -ZH, in which Z, P, P’, n and p are as defined above. Examples that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldieth- anolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.
  • R 4 is as defined above.
  • a third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the hydrophobic end groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).
  • This compound is constituted of a hydrophobic group and a function containing labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.
  • this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, do- decyl alcohol or decyl alcohol.
  • this compound includes a polymeric chain, it may be, for example, ⁇ -hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.
  • the hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound including at least one tertiary amine unit.
  • the hydrophobic group is introduced via the quaternizing agent.
  • This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.
  • the cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional.
  • the functions containing labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions.
  • This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing labile hydrogen.
  • ethylene glycol diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
  • hydrophilic polymer mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers.
  • the hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and particularly a poly(ethylene ox- ide) or poly(propylene oxide).
  • the hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (Ia) is optional. Specifically, the units con- taining a quaternary or protonated amine function may be sufficient to provide the sol- ubility or water-dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution. Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyu- rethanes including such a group are, however, preferred.
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives and in particular: - i) quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof; - ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof; - iii) the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib): - R and R’, which are identical or different, represent an ammonium group -R a R b R c N + Q- in which R a , R b and R c , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or
  • the alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses i) or hydroxyethylcellu- loses ii) preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the aryl radicals preferably de- note phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
  • Quatrisoft LM 200® sold by the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical
  • Crodacel QM® INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride
  • R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R’ represents a dimethyldodecylammo- nium halide; more preferentially, R represents trimethylammonium chloride - (CH 3 ) 3 N + Cl- and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride -(CH 3 ) 2 (C 12 H 25 )N + Cl- .
  • This type of polymer is known under the trade name Softcat Polymer SL®, such as SL- 100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical, having the INCI name Polyquaternium-67.
  • the polymers of formula (Ib) are those for which the viscosity is be- tween 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive. Preferentially, the viscosity is between 2700 and 2800 cPs inclusive.
  • Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs
  • Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs
  • Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs
  • Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.
  • cationic polyvinyllactams particularly those comprising: - a) at least one monomer of vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type; - b) at least one monomer of structure (Ic) or (IIc) below: an oxygen atom or an R 1 and R 6 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 5 alkyl radical, R 2 denotes a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, - R 3 , R 4 and R 5 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc): in which: Y, Y 1 and Y 2 denote, independently of each other, a linear or branched C 2 -C 16 alkylene radical, R 7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkylene radical, R 7
  • the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and may also be block polymers.
  • the counterion Z- of the monomers of formula (Ic) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, the methosulfate ion and the tosylate ion.
  • R 3 , R 4 and R 5 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical.
  • the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic) for which, preferen- tially, m and n are equal to 0.
  • the vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc): in which s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R 9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 5 alkyl radical and R 10 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 5 alkyl radical, with the proviso that one at least of the radicals R 9 and R 10 denotes a hydrogen atom. Even more preferentially, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.
  • the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or nonionic monomers.
  • terpolymers comprising, by weight: 40% to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1% to 55% of monomer (c), and 0.25% to 50% of monomer (b).
  • Such polymers are particularly described in patent application WO-00/68282.
  • cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers use is in particular made of: - vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethylmethac- rylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, - vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacrylami- dopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, - vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethacrylami- dopropylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers.
  • the vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylme- thylacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is particularly sold by the company ISP under the names Styleze W10® and Styleze W20L® (INCI name: Polyquaternium- 55).
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20000000, more particularly between 200000 and 2000000 and preferentially between 400000 and 800000.
  • Such a polymer is, for example, the compound sold by the company Lubrizol under the name Carbopol Aqua CC ® and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.
  • the nonionic associative polymers are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: (1) celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, particularly C 8 - C 32 and better still C 14 -C 28 alkyl; preferably from: - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, partic- ularly C 8 -C 32 and better still C 14 -C 28 alkyl, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C 8 -C 22 , for instance the cetylhydroxyethylcellulose sold particularly under the reference Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C 16 alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS
  • Examples that may be mentioned include: - the vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer and particularly the products Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 sold by the company ISP; - the vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer and particularly the products Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 sold by the company ISP.
  • polyurethane polyethers including in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.
  • polymers comprising an aminoplast ether backbone having at least one fatty chain, particularly C 8 -C 32 and better still C 14 -C 28 alkyl, such as the Pure Thix compounds sold by the company Süd-Chemie.
  • the polyurethane polyethers include at least two hydrocarbon-based lipo- philic chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, it being possible for the hydrocarbon-based chains to be pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged.
  • the polymer may include a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
  • the polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form.
  • the hy- drophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
  • the fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hy- drophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylenated chain including from 50 to 1000 oxy- ethylene groups.
  • the nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond be- tween the hydrophilic blocks, giving rise to their name.
  • fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers include those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
  • fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, use may also be made of Rheolate 205® containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®. Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® containing a C12-C14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® containing a C18 alkyl chain, from Akzo.
  • Use may also be made of the product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas containing a C20 alkyl chain and containing a urethane bond, provided at a solids content of 20% in water. Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, particularly in water or in an aqueous/alcoholic medium. Mention may be made, as examples of such polymers, of Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244, sold by the company Rheox. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas.
  • polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in partic- ular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380.389 (1993). Even more particularly, preference is given to using a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
  • Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyeth- ylene glycol having 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of meth- ylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%);
  • Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol having 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic associative polymers, preferentially chosen from polyurethane polyethers and/or cho- sen from celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, particularly a C 8 -C 32 alkyl and better still C 14 -C 28 alkyl, fatty chain.
  • the associative polymer(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the non-ionic associative polymer(s) may be present in the composition ac- cording to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, pref- erentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Polyol The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polyols.
  • the term “polyol” means an organic com- pound constituted of a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH), preferably borne by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, better still from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups. They preferably comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol(s) are chosen from diglycerol, glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3- diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and even better still from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 45% by weight, better still ranging from 0.1% to 12% by weight, even better still ranging from 0.2% to 6% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Thickeners The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more thickeners, par- ticularly aqueous-phase thickeners (or hydrophilic thickeners).
  • thickener or “aqueous-phase thickener” means a compound which in- creases the viscosity of the aqueous phase into which it is introduced at a concentra- tion of 0.05% by weight by at least 20 cPs (20 mPa.s), preferably by at least 50 cPs (50 mPa.s), the viscosity being measured at 25°C, 1 atm, at a shear rate of 1s -1 (the vis- cosity can be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
  • the thickener is other than the surfactants, polymers, silicones, fatty substances and polyols described above.
  • the thickener is other than the associative poly- mers above.
  • the thickener may advantageously be chosen from non-associative thickening poly- mers bearing sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, and mixtures thereof.
  • the thickener may advantageously be chosen from ani- onic, nonionic or amphoteric non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units; anionic, nonionic or amphoteric non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, and mixtures thereof.
  • sugar unit means an oxygen- comprising hydrocarbon-based compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • the sugar units can be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.
  • the sugar units that may be included in the composition of the aqueous-phase thick- ening polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glu- cose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalac- tose sulfate and fructose.
  • Non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units of native gums, such as: a) tree or shrub exudates, such as: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucu- ronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucu- ronic acid); - gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabi- nose); b) gums derived from algae, such as: - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of
  • polymers may be physically or chemically modified.
  • physical treatment mention may be made of temperature.
  • chemical treatment mention may be made of esterification, etherification, ami- dation and oxidation reactions.
  • these treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may particularly be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.
  • these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
  • the nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C 1 -C 6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • C 1 -C 6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl func- tions present on the guar gum.
  • Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for ex- ample, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the com- pany Rhodia Chimie.
  • the botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers.
  • the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.
  • the starches may be chemically or physically modified, particularly by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etheri- fication, amidation, heat treatments.
  • Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferentially be used, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelati- nized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava dis- tarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).
  • amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.
  • the anionic and cationic groups can be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch mol- ecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site.
  • the anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carbox- ylic type.
  • the cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
  • the starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, particularly such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolyzates of the starches mentioned above.
  • the starch is preferably derived from potato.
  • the non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulose-based pol- ymers not comprising a C 10 -C 30 fatty chain in their structure.
  • the term "cellulose" polymer means any polysaccharide compound having, in its structure, sequences of glucose residues joined via ⁇ -1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives other than the polymers described above can be anionic, amphoteric or nonionic.
  • the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.
  • cellulose ethers cellulose esters
  • cellulose esters are distinguished.
  • the cellulose esters are inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic esters of cellulose (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, am- idopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates,for exam- ple), and mixed organic/inorganic esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates.
  • cellulose ester ethers mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
  • nonionic cellulose ethers not bearing a C 10 -C 30 fatty chain i.e.
  • non-associ- ative cellulose ethers mention may be made of (C 1 -C 4 )alkylcelluloses, such as methyl- celluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C 1 -C 4 )alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hy- droxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Aqualon) and hydrox- ypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C 1 -C 4 )al- kyl(C 1 -C 4 )alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Metho- cel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcellu- loses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel
  • anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C 1 -C 4 )alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. Mention may be made, by way of example, of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Bla- nose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.
  • non-associative thickening polymers not bearing sugar units that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homo- polymers and the acrylamide copolymers thereof, alone or as mixtures, it being possible for said polymers to be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.
  • a first family of non-associative thickening polymers that is suitable for use is repre- sented by acrylic acid homopolymers, preferably crosslinked.
  • homopolymers of this type mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, for instance the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3 VSA. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.
  • the non-associative thickening polymers may also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Noveon.
  • the non-associative thickening polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and the crosslinked acryla- mide copolymers thereof.
  • crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid and of acrylamide mention may be made in particular of the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document as regards these polymers.
  • the thickener(s) may be chosen from polymers not comprising sugar units, in particular from crosslinked or uncrosslinked non-associative thickening polymers bearing acrylic or methacrylic units; in particular from acrylic or methacrylic acid ho- mopolymers or copolymers, preferentially from crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, alone or as mixtures; even better still from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, particularly crosslinked by a pentaerythrityl allyl ether, a sucrose allyl ether or a propylene allyl ether.
  • the thickener(s) may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.02% to 4% by weight, even better still ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Other ingredients The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, which may be present in a proportion of from 65% to 98% by weight, better still from 70% to 97% by weight and preferably from 75% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise, furthermore, one or more water-miscible organic solvents other than the polyols described previously, par- ticularly chosen from non-aromatic C1-C6 alcohols such as ethanol and/or isopropanol, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and/or phenylethyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof.
  • organic solvent(s) generally represent from 0.1% to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more additives customarily used in the field, particularly chosen from cationic polymers other than the polymers described above, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, vita- mins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, sol- ubilizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy ac- ids, fragrances, preserving agents, dyes and fillers.
  • additives customarily used in the field particularly chosen from cationic polymers other than the polymers described above, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, vita- mins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, sol- ubilizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy ac- ids, fragrances, preserving agents, dyes
  • the composition further comprises: - one or more non-silicone fatty substances, preferably chosen from solid fatty sub- stances, liquid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof; and/or - one or more associative polymers, preferably non-ionic; and/or - one or more polyols; and/or - one or more thickeners.
  • Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic hair treatment process, comprising a step of applying the composition as described previously to the hair.
  • This cosmetic hair treatment method is more particularly a hair care method, particu- larly a method for cleansing and/or conditioning the hair.
  • the composition according to the invention may be applied to wet hair or dry hair, pref- erably to wet hair.
  • the application step may be followed by a leave-on time of the composition that may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.
  • the application step according to the invention may be followed, after a possible leave- on time, by a step of rinsing the composition, for example with water.
  • the application step is followed by a rinsing step.
  • the application step may be followed, after a possible leave-on time and/or an optional rinsing step, with a step of drying, for example using a hairdryer.
  • the hair may also be left to dry, particularly left to dry naturally.
  • the application step according to the invention may also be followed by a step of wash- ing the hair, for example with a shampoo; this is particularly the case when the hair care composition according to the invention is used as a pre-shampoo.
  • the application step according to the invention may be preceded by a step of washing the hair, for example with a shampoo; this is particularly the case when the hair care composition according to the invention is used as a conditioner or hair mask.
  • the amine number (or amine content) may be determined as described thereafter, based on a ASTM standard, for example “Determination of Amine content (tertiary amine) of Amino alkyl silanes and siloxane fluids”.
  • the amine number may be determined by acid-base titration and defined as the amount (in milliequivalents or meq) of perchloric acid needed to neutralize 1 g of amine in the sample.
  • Procedure - weigh 10 g of sample into a 500 ml Erlenmeyer flask - add 50 ml of toluene, mix until the sample has dissolved, then add 125 ml of acetic acid - while stirring, add 5 drops of crystal violet indicator (at 0.5% by weight/volume in the acetic acid, i.e.
  • the weight-average molecular mass may be determined by any known method, partic- ularly by dynamic light scattering, gel permeation chromatography or NMR. It is gener- ally expressed in daltons.
  • the weight-average molecular masses of the aminosilicones of formula (I) are measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature, as poly- styrene equivalents.
  • GPC gel permeation chromatography
  • the column used are ⁇ styragel columns.
  • the eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 mL/minute. 200 ⁇ L of a solution containing 0,5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.
  • An alternative method can be used to determine the weight-average molecular masses of these aminosilicones: 1. Using nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy to determine an average general structure and ; 2. Calculating the number average molecular weight from the average general struc- ture.
  • the average general structure can be obtained using nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy on a Bruker AV III 600 Spectrometer operating at field strength of 14.1T; 1 H’s resonate at 600 MHz.
  • a sample can be placed in a 5 mm or 10 mm NMR tube and diluted with CDCl 3 or 0.1M Cr(AcAc) 3 /CDCl 3 to a final concentration of 0.05M Cr(AcAc) 3 .
  • Inverse gated decoupling pulse sequence can be used with a pulse width of 45-degrees ( 13 C: delay of ⁇ 5 s, AQ of ⁇ 1.65 s; 29 Si: delay of ⁇ 10 s, AQ of ⁇ 1.42 s).
  • the 1 H NMR spectrum can be acquired using a standard pulse sequence with a 30-degrees pulse width and a delay of ⁇ 12 s.
  • C/ Dynamic viscosity The dynamic viscosity can be determined according to the following method. Measurement conditions: 25 ⁇ 2°C, 1 atm., relative humidity 50 ⁇ 5% Brookfield viscometer: this is a precise torque meter which is operated at a discrete rotational speed.
  • the torque measuring system which consists of a calibrated beryl- lium-copper spring that connects the drive mechanism to a rotating cone, detects the resistance to rotation caused by the presence of a fluid sample between the cone and a stationary flat plate. The resistance to rotation of the cone produces torque which is proportional to the shear stress in the fluid. Size of the sample: 500 ml in a beaker.
  • Example 1 The composition A according to the invention and the comparative composition A’ were prepared from the following ingredients (% AM): Table 1 Ingredients A (Invention) A’ (comparative) he composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to condition the hair, in particular to provide a smooth feel and coating.
  • composition A according to the invention com- pared with that provided by comparative composition A’, are evaluated on wet hair and dry hair.
  • the evaluation is carried out on locks of hair sensitized by a bleaching treatment.
  • the locks are pre-cleansed using a standard shampoo (DOP Camomile) in a proportion of 0.3 g/g of hair, then rinsed and dried.
  • a shampoo Total Repair 5 ELSEVE – L’OREAL PARIS
  • flow rate 300 l/h, water temperature 35°C.
  • the evaluation is per- formed on wet hair.
  • the locks are dried using a hairdryer and the evaluation is performed on dry hair.
  • the following criteria are evaluated: - on wet hair: the smooth feel and the coating - on dry hair: the smooth feel
  • the evaluation is carried out blind, by 6 assessors, who assign a grade ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (performs very well), in increments of 0.5, to the criterion tested.
  • Evaluation of the smooth feel the assessor takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it through the fingers over the entire length of the lock as far as the ends. The more the hair is uniform and homogeneous from the root to the end, the fewer rough patches it has, the less it catches on the fingers, the better the smooth feel.
  • Evaluation of the coating the evaluator takes the lock of hair in their hand, starts from the root and slides as far as the ends. The more a deposit is felt on the fibre, the better the coating.
  • Example 2 Composition B according to the invention and comparative composition B’ were pre- pared from the following ingredients (% AM): Table 3 Ingredients B (Invention) B’ (comparative) Behentrimonium chloride 24 24 he composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to condition the hair, in particular to provide a smooth and soft feel, and also a uniform coating, from the root to the ends. According to a protocol identical to that of Example 1, the sensory performance pro- vided by composition B, compared to composition B’, is evaluated on dry hair.
  • the following criterion is evaluated: - on dry hair: the smooth feel
  • the evaluation is carried out blind, by 4 assessors, who assign a grade ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (performs very well), in increments of 0.5, to the criterion tested.
  • the following results are obtained (average of the grades): Table 4 B B’ D h i S th f l 40 ⁇ 05 23 ⁇ 06 ifi- cantly better cosmetic performance compared with hair treated with the comparative composition, in particular with an improved smooth feel character.
  • the hair appears more uniform from the root to the end, with a softer feel result.
  • Example 3 Composition C according to the invention and comparative composition C’ were pre- pared from the following ingredients (% AM): Table 5 Ingredients C (Invention) C’ (comparative) Cetrimonium chloride 12 12 ir.
  • the compositions are tested on locks of natural Caucasian hair, of 2.7 g and 27 cm in length. Firstly, the locks are cleaned using a standard silicon-free shampoo (DOP Camomile) in a proportion of 0.4 g/g of hair. The shampoo is massaged on the lock in order to lather it up, before a leave-on time of 15 seconds, and then a step of rinsing with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l/h, temperature: 35°C).
  • DOP Camomile standard silicon-free shampoo
  • the shampoo is massaged on the lock in order to lather it up, before a leave-on time of 15 seconds, and then a step of rinsing with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l/h, temperature: 35°C).
  • composition C or C’ to be tested is applied to the wet hair in a proportion of 0.4 g/g of hair, before a leave-on time of 2 minutes followed by rinsing with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l/h, temperature: 35°C). Finally, the locks are dried for 30 minutes in an oven at 60°C. The cycle of applying standard shampoo + composition C or C’ + drying in an oven is repeated an additional 4 times. At the end of the 5 th cycle, the deposit of silicone on the hair is quantified by x-ray fluorescence spectrometry via the measurement of the weight concentration of silicon element on the hair fibre. The amount of silicon naturally present in the untreated hair is subtracted from the measurement (i.e.
  • composition D The sensory performance provided by composition D according to the invention, com- pared with that provided by comparative composition D’, are evaluated on wet hair and dry hair.
  • the evaluation is carried out on locks of hair sensitized by a bleaching treatment, pre- cleansed using a standard shampoo (DOP Camomile), then rinsed and dried, in a man- ner similar to Example 1.
  • a shampoo Total Repair 5 ELSEVE – L’OREAL PARIS
  • flow rate 300 l/h, water temperature 35°C.
  • the evaluation is per- formed on wet hair.
  • the locks are dried using a hairdryer and the evaluation is performed on dry hair.
  • the following criteria are evaluated: - on wet hair: the coating - on dry hair: the smooth feel and the coating
  • the evaluation is carried out blind, by 6 assessors, who assign a grade ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (performs very well), in increments of 0.5, to the criterion tested.
  • Example 5 Composition E according to the invention and comparative composition E’ were pre- pared from the following ingredients (% AM): Table 9 Ingredients E (Invention) E’ (comparative) Behentrimonium chloride 32 32 he composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to provide the hair with a smooth feel and a coating.
  • composition E The sensory performance provided by composition E according to the invention, com- pared with that provided by comparative composition E’, are evaluated on wet hair and dry hair.
  • the following criteria are evaluated: - on wet hair: the smooth feel - on dry hair: the coating
  • the evaluation is carried out blind, by 4 assessors, who assign a grade ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (performs very well), in increments of 0.5, to the criterion tested.
  • the following results are obtained (average): Table 10 E E’ W t h i S th f l 475 ⁇ 030 375 ⁇ 065 as a better cosmetic performance in terms of smooth feel and coating compared with hair treated with the comparative composition.
  • the locks are pre-cleansed using a standard shampoo (DOP Camomile) in a proportion of 0.3 g/g of hair, then rinsed and dried.
  • DOP Camomile a standard shampoo
  • the evaluation is performed on wet hair.
  • the locks are dried using a hairdryer and the evaluation is performed on dry hair.
  • the following criteria are evaluated: - on wet hair: the disentangling and the smooth feel
  • the evaluation is carried out blind, by 6 assessors for the smooth feel, and by 2 asses- sors for the disentangling, who assign a grade ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (performs very well), in increments of 0.5, to the criterion tested.
  • Evaluation of the smooth feel the assessor takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it through the fingers over the entire length of the lock as far as the ends. The more the hair is uniform and homogeneous from the root to the end, the fewer rough patches it has, the less it catches on the fingers, the better the smooth feel.

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique de soin capillaire comprenant : - une ou plusieurs silicones aminées particulières, ayant un nombre d'amines allant de 0,1 à 0,29 meq/g et une masse moléculaire moyenne en poids allant de 10 000 à 100 000 ; et - une ou plusieurs silicones autres que les silicones aminées de formule (I). L'invention concerne également un procédé de traitement cosmétique des cheveux mettant en oeuvre ladite composition.
PCT/EP2023/077073 2022-09-30 2023-09-29 Composition cosmétique de soin capillaire comprenant des silicones aminées particulières et des silicones supplémentaires, et procédé de traitement cosmétique des cheveux WO2024068936A1 (fr)

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FR2209956A FR3140275A1 (fr) 2022-09-30 2022-09-30 Composition cosmétique de soin des cheveux comprenant des silicones aminées particulières et des silicones additionnelles, et procédé de traitement cosmétique des cheveux.

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