WO2024031596A1 - Composition for treating keratin fibers - Google Patents

Composition for treating keratin fibers Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024031596A1
WO2024031596A1 PCT/CN2022/111961 CN2022111961W WO2024031596A1 WO 2024031596 A1 WO2024031596 A1 WO 2024031596A1 CN 2022111961 W CN2022111961 W CN 2022111961W WO 2024031596 A1 WO2024031596 A1 WO 2024031596A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
silicone
weight
composition
kit according
amino
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PCT/CN2022/111961
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Mingming YAO
Yanmin ZHOU
Agathe LAHAYE
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication date
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Priority to PCT/CN2022/111961 priority Critical patent/WO2024031596A1/en
Priority to FR2211431A priority patent/FR3138772A1/en
Publication of WO2024031596A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024031596A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884Sequential application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, in particular the hair.
  • the invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular the hair, using the composition of the present invention.
  • Cosmetic and personal care products for use on keratinous substrates such as hair are available commercially in various forms, for example, as creams, lotions, gels, pastes, and powders. Regardless of the form, these products have to achieve and provide certain benefits and attributes such as efficaciousness, cosmeticity, desirable texture, stable formulations, and ease and convenience of use and application. Thus, in order to meet consumer needs and preferences, manufacturers of such products continuously seek to re-formulate and create new products with enhanced efficacy, while still remaining stable and safe to use.
  • hair cosmetic products such as those products designed to change the appearance, shape or configuration of hair as well as to provide hair care benefits of manageability, frizz control, volume reduction, and improved quality of the hair fiber.
  • hair cosmetic products are hair relaxers or hair straighteners which can relax or straighten curly or kinky hair, including wavy hair.
  • Other hair cosmetic products are perms and waving compositions for providing curl or shape to hair. These products may increase the manageability and ease of styling hair and they may either be applied in a hair salon by a professional or in the home by the individual consumer.
  • kits for treating keratin fibers comprising:
  • a reducer composition I) comprising the components of:
  • composition II) a neutralizer composition II) , comprising
  • a cationic polymer preferably being a polyquaternium in liquid form
  • the kit according to the present invention is particularly useful for a perm product.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular keratin fibers on body surface, especially hair, using the kit according to the invention.
  • the “keratin fiber” according to the present invention is preferably hair.
  • composition I) reducer composition
  • the reducer composition I) according to the invention comprises a cationic cellulose-based polymer, use as of component I-1) .
  • composition I) according to the present invention comprises one or more cationic cellulose-based polymers.
  • cationic cellulose-based polymer denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) cellulose-based polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and preferably not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
  • cellulose-based polymer comprises any polysaccharide compound having in its structure at least 20 sequences of glucose residues bonded together via ⁇ -1, 4 linkages.
  • the cellulose-based polymer may be associative, i.e. it may bear in its structure at least one C8-C30 fatty chain.
  • the cellulose-based polymer may be non-associative, i.e. not bearing any C8-C30 fatty chains.
  • the cationiccellulose-based polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 5000 and 5x10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3x10 6 approximately.
  • cationic celluloses mention may more particularly be made of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups optionally modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer.
  • cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are in particular described in FR 1 492597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as hydroxyethylcelluloses that have reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group and called Polyquaternium-10.
  • the cationic cellulose copolymers or celluloses grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or di methyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • groups including at least one fatty chain such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • C18 alkyl Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl) , such as the product Crodacel sold by Croda.
  • R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R′ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide; preferentially, R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3) 3N+-, Cl and R′ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3) 2 (Ci2H25) N+-, Cl .
  • This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical.
  • the cationic cellulose-based polymer is chosen from hydroxyethylcelluloses that have reacted with a trimethylammoniumepoxide and a lauryldimethylammonium epoxide (INCI name: Polyquaternium-67) and hydroxyethylcelluloses that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group and called Polyquaternium-10.
  • the cationic cellulose-based polymer may be present in an amount ranging for example from 0.01%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I) .
  • the kit of the invention can comprise at least one silicone, used as component I-2) .
  • the useful silicone can comprise amino silicone and in particular silicone elastomer blend.
  • Silicone elastomer blends useful according to various embodiments of the disclosure may comprise at least one silicone cross-polymer dispersed in at least one oil.
  • the at least one silicone cross-polymer may, in certain embodiments, be chosen from dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-polymers and dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone cross-polymers.
  • the silicone cross-polymer may be modified by one or more groups chosen from alkyl, polyether, polyglycerin groups.
  • the alkyl modified silicone cross-polymers may be chosen from vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone cross-polymers, cetearyl dimethicone cross-polymers, and C 30 -C 45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone cross-polymers.
  • Non-limiting examples of polyether modified silicone cross-polymers include dimethicone/PEG-10/15 cross-polymers. Suitable alkyl and polyether modified silicone cross-polymers may be chosen, for example, from PEG-10/lauryl dimethicone cross-polymers and PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross-polymers. Exemplary polyglycerin modified silicone cross-polymers include dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 cross-polymers and lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 cross-polymers.
  • the silicone cross-polymer may be dispersed in at least one oil.
  • the oil may be chosen from silicone oils, such as cyclic and linear organopolysiloxanes.
  • Cyclic organopolysiloxanes may include, for example, cyclotetrasiloxane; cyclopentasiloxane; and methylated cyclic organopolysiloxanes, e.g., octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • Non-limiting examples of linear organopolysiloxanes include low molecular weight dimethicones; high molecular weight dimethicones; alkyl derivatives of linear organopolysiloxanes, e.g., cetyl dimethicone and lauryl trimethicone; aryl derivatives of linear organopolysiloxanes, e.g., phenyl trimethicone; and hydroxylated derivatives of linear organopolysiloxanes, e.g., dimethiconol.
  • the oil may be chosen from organic oils, such as mineral oil; linear and branched alkanes, e.g., isododecane; triethylhexanoin; and squalane.
  • each of the silicone cross-polymer and the silicone oil is free of amine group.
  • the at least one silicone cross-polymer may, in one embodiment, range from 5%to 35%by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone elastomer blend, for example, from 10%to 20%by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the at least one oil may range from 65%to 95%by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone elastomer blend, such as from 80%to 90%by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • Non-limiting examples of commercially available silicone elastomer blends include the products sold under the KSG product line by Shin-Etsu, such as KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-210, and KSG-18; the products sold under the VELVESIL product line by Momentive, such as VELVESIL 125 and VELVESIL DM; and the products sold under the DOWSIL TM Liquid Satin Blend product line by Dow, such as DOWSIL TM 3901 Liquid Satin Blend and DOWSIL TM 3903 Liquid Satin Blend.
  • the at least one silicone elastomer blend may be present in the kit in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 20%by weight, such as from 0.5%to 15%by weight, or from 1%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I) , including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • Composition (I) also contains a reducer.
  • This reducer can be any current reducers known for treating hair, preferably the reducers conventionally used for perm.
  • Reducers present in the invention can be any reducer useful for treating hair, preferably perming hair. It can be a thiol reducer or a non thiol reducer.
  • Non thiol reducers can be selected from sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. More preferably, the non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably alkali metal or alkali earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, and more preferably sodium sulfites and bisulfites.
  • the reducer can be a thiol-based compound.
  • the kit of the invention may comprise at least one thiol-based compound selected from thioglycolic acid, thioglycerol, thiolactic acid, their derivatives, their salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one thiol-based compound of the present disclosure can be used as a combination of two or more therebetween or with other thiol-based compounds selected from cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine, glutathione, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, their salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • other thiol-based compounds selected from cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine, glutathione, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thi
  • the at least one thiol-based compound of the present disclosure can be a salt formed from alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal sulfites, ammonium or phosphines, and mixtures thereof.
  • the thiol-based compound used in the composition of the invention is thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid or a salt thereof, e.g., an ammonium, for instance ammonium thioglycolate.
  • the at least one thiol-based compound may be present in the kit in an amount ranging from 1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 1.5%to 10%by weight, or preferably from 3%to 9%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the at least one thiol-based compound is selected from thiolactic acid and is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 1%, 1.25%, 1.5%, 1 . 75%, 2%, 2.25%, 2.5%, or about 2.75%, 3%, 3.25%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.25%, 4.5%, 4.75%, 5%, 5.25%, 5.5%, 5.75%, 6%, 6.25%, 6.5%, 6.75%, 7%, 7.25%, 7.5%, 7.75%, 8%, 8.25%, 8.5%, 8.75%, 9%, 9.5%, 10%, 10.5%, 11%, 11.5%, 12%, 13%, or 14%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • reducing composition (I) contains an alkaline agent.
  • alkaline agent may be selected from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organic amines, hydroxide base compounds, and mixtures thereof, particularly from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • Organic amines may be selected from amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (or aminomethyl propanol) , ethylamines, ethyleneamines, alkanolamines, cyclic amines and other cyclic compounds, saturated or unsaturated, having one or more nitrogen atoms within the ring, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic amines may be chosen from the ones having a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, such as less than 10 or such as less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.
  • Organic amines may be chosen from organic amines comprising one or two primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functions, and at least one linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing at least one hydroxyl radical.
  • Organic amines may also be chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di-or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine, pyridine, piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.
  • alkanolamines such as mono-, di-or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine
  • monoethanolamine also known as monoethanolamine or MEA
  • diethanolamine triethanolamine
  • monoisopropanolamine diisopropanolamine
  • diisopropanolamine N-dimethylaminoethanolamine
  • 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol triisopropanolamine
  • 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3 -propanediol 3 -amino-1, 2-propanediol, 3 -dimethylamino-1, 2-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol
  • tris hydroxymethylamino methane.
  • the organic amines are chosen from amino acids.
  • the amino acids that may be used may be of natural or synthetic origin, in L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen from, for instance, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric acid functions.
  • the amino acids may be in their neutral or ionic form.
  • Amino acids that may be used in the present disclosure include but are not limited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine.
  • the amino acids may be chosen from basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
  • Such basic amino acids may be chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline.
  • the organic amines are chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type.
  • histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, non-limiting mention may also be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, 1, 2, 4-triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole.
  • the organic amines are chosen from amino acid dipeptides.
  • Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present disclosure include but not limited to: carnosine, anserine, and baleine.
  • the organic amines are chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function.
  • Organic amines of this type that may be used in the present disclosure include, besides arginine that has already been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1, 1 -dimethylguanidine, 1, 1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and 2- ( [amino (imino) methyl] amino) ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.
  • alkali metal phosphates and carbonates that may be used are, for example, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and their derivatives.
  • the hydroxide base compounds chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and mixtures thereof. Suitable examples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, caesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one alkaline agent may be chosen from at least one organic amine such as at least one alkanolamine.
  • Particularly preferred alkanolamines are 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (aminomethyl propanol) , ethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA) , triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • An even more particularly preferred alkanolamine is ethanolamine.
  • the at least one alkaline agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one alkaline agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkaline agent may be present in the kit in an amount ranging from 0.2%to 5.5%by weight, more preferably from 0.3%to 5%by weight, even more preferably from 0.3%to 4.6%by weight, based on the total weight of the reducer composition I) , including all ranges and subranges there between.
  • the reducer composition I) according to the invention can comprise, optionally, a cosmetically acceptable fatty substance.
  • fatty substance means organic compounds that are insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1%and even more preferentially 0.1%) . They may preferably have in their structure a sequence of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclo-pentasiloxane.
  • the fatty substances are especially chosen from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils, in particular mineral, plant, animal or synthetic non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes, and silicones.
  • the fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is (are) optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4) . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • these alkanes comprise from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic.
  • the alkanes may be chosen from hexane and dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
  • non-silicone oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sweet almond oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesameseed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;
  • fluoro oils for instance perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1, 3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names PC1 and PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1, 2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF and PF by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF by the company 3M.
  • the fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition of the invention are not oxyalkylenated. They are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol) , octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.
  • esters useful are esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono-or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono-or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C 12 -C 15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate
  • esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 26 di-, tri-, tetra-or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • diethyl sebacate diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate;
  • composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters oxygenous hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose) , glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate mixed esters.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
  • the content of fatty substance (s) ranges from 0.1%to 30%by weight, or from 1%to 15%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (I) .
  • composition II neutralizer composition
  • the neutralizer composition comprises at least one oxidant.
  • Oxidants are of the commonly used type and contains e. g . hydrogen peroxide, an alkali metal bromate, a persalt, a polythionate or an alkali metal bromate/persalt mixture.
  • the hydrogen peroxide concentration can vary from 1 to 20 volumes, preferably from 1 to 10 volumes
  • the alkali metal bromate concentration can vary from 1%to 12%by weight
  • the persalt concentration can vary from 0.1%to 15%by weight, based on the total weight of the neutralizer composition II) .
  • the pH of the neutralizer composition is generally between 2 and 10.
  • the alkali metal bromate may be preferably used, in an amount preferably of 2%to 8%by weight, based on the total weight of the neutralizer composition II) .
  • the neutralizer composition II) according to the invention preferably comprises a polyquaternium in liquid form, i.e., liquid polyquaternium. Nonetheless, the liquid polyquaternium useful for the composition II) is preferably one different from the (poly) quaternium compound selected from Polyquaternium-10 and Polyquaternium-67 used for the composition I) .
  • liquid can be one not in solid or gas phase, encompassing those having very high viscosity, e.g., those generally deemed as “semi-solid” , and also encompassing those dispersion systems (comprising emulsion) containing a certain content of solid.
  • a cationic polymer is generally added into a hair kit, especially a perm product.
  • the cationic polymer can be added into either of the reducer composition or neutralizer composition, or into the both; while generally, the cationic polymer is more usually added into the reducer.
  • the addition of a cationic polymer into the neutralizer composition is preferable.
  • the cationic polymers of the present disclosure contain at least one carboxyl group.
  • the cationic polymer can have a negative charge but remains cationic overall, can be an amphoteric polymer that can carry a cationic charge, or can be a betaine polymer that remains amphoteric at any pH.
  • the liquid polyquaternium II-1 can be polymers that result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen from: (i) at least one nonionic monomer such as (Alkyl) (Meth) Acrylamide, (Alkyl) (Meth) Acrylate Ester, Vinyl Pyrrolidone, Vinyl Imidazole; (ii) at least one cationic monomer such as Ethyltrimonium (Alkyl) (Meth) Acrylamide, Ethyltrimonium (Alkyl) (Meth) Acrylate Ester, Vinylimidazoline, Dimethylaminopropyl (Alkyl) (Meth) Acrylamide, Methacrylamidopropyl Triethyl Ammonium Chloride (MAPTAC) , Diallyl Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride (DADMAC) ; (iii) at least one (Alkyl) Acrylic acid; (iv) at least
  • liquid polyquaterniums are: the diallyidimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid copolymers sold under the names MERQUAT 280 POLYMER or MERQUAT 280NP POLYMER or MERQUAT 281 POLYMER or MERQUAT 295 POLYMER, by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-22) ; the copolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, of acrylic acid and or methyl acrylate, sold under the name MERQUAT 2001 POLYMER OR MERQUAT 2001 N POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-47) ; the acrylamide/dimethyldiallylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymer sold under the name MERQUAT 3330DRY POLYMER or MERQUAT 3330PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3331 PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3940 POLYMERQUAT 280
  • the polyquaternium compounds are particularly preferable for the purpose of the present invention when obtained from acrylamide or acrylic acid monomers, preferably from acrylamide monomers.
  • Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7 can be particularly mentioned as a liquid polyquaternium useful for the present invention wherein the polyquaterniums are in an aqueous form.
  • the component II-1) is present in the compositions according to the disclosure in amounts range from 0.01%to 20%by weight, and in some embodiments from 0.01%to 15%by weight, and in some further embodiments from 0.05%to 10%by weight, relative to the total amount of the neutralizer composition II) .
  • the neutralizer composition II comprises amino silicone, preferably non-volatile amino silicone oils useful as component II-2) .
  • the amino silicone useful as the component II-2) may also be used for the silicone of component I-2) .
  • silicone and “silicone oil” can be used exchangeable to one another.
  • the non-volatile amino silicone oil for use as component II-2) can be preferably free of phenyl group, i.e., a non-phenyl silicone.
  • non-phenyl denotes a compound not bearing any phenyl substituents.
  • Silicone is usually used as an oil for various cosmetic purpose. Amongst others, an amino silicone is particularly interested.
  • the term “amino silicone” is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group (i.e., a quaternized group) .
  • a silicone may bear the amine group on the skeleton chain in the molecule, called as an amino-terminal silicone, or bear the amine group on the pendent chain, called as an amino-grafted silicone.
  • Amino silicones are described, for example, in US2011/0155163 and US2011/155164, both of which are herein incorporated by reference.
  • Non-limiting examples include amodimethicone, silicone quaternium-22, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone, bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, quaternium-80, methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 aminopropyl dimethicone, silicone quaternium-22, bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG- amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicon
  • the aminosilicone is under the form of an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:
  • a silicone mixture comprising (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane (s) having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa. s at 25°C and (ii) one or more amino silicone (s) having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa. s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
  • emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
  • Such a silicone is known under INCI name DIMETHICONE (and) AMODIMETHICONE (and) TRIDECETH-10 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (and) STEARETH-6 (and) TRIDECETH-3.
  • the component II-2) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 20%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the neutralizer composition II) .
  • compositions according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one surfactant, e.g., an amphoteric, nonionic surfactant, or a mixture thereof, in particular at least one nonionic surfactant, and/or at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • at least one surfactant e.g., an amphoteric, nonionic surfactant, or a mixture thereof, in particular at least one nonionic surfactant, and/or at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • the kit according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant, for use as component, in reducer composition I) and/or neutralizer composition II) .
  • Examples of the useful nonionic surfactants may comprise esters of (poly) alcohols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e.
  • derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units such as the glyceryl esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • useful esters for component C) can preferably comprise 21 or more carbon atoms. That is to say, regarding fatty acid esters, those having 20 or less carbon atoms, e.g., C 12 -C 20 fatty acid esters, can be used as component B);while fatty acid esters having 21 or more carbon atoms are useful as component C) .
  • Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, or glyceryl ricinoleate) , and mixtures thereof.
  • CFA name glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, or glyceryl ricinoleate
  • Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 40 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) , polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) , and mixtures thereof.
  • polyethylene glycol stearate polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate
  • CTFA name polyethylene glycol 40 OE monostearate
  • CTFA name polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate
  • CTFA name polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate
  • Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) ; or a mixture containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.
  • CTFA name glyceryl stearate SE
  • Fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for instance methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for instance methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially the diester of methylglucoside and of oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate) ; the mixed ester of methylglucoside and of the oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxysterate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate) ; the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside
  • oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose examples include the oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) , such as the product sold under the name E-20 distearate by the company Amerchol; the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the product sold under the name PSE-20 by the company Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.
  • CTFA name polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and of
  • sucrose esters examples include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.
  • fatty alcohol ethers examples include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol or of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) .
  • ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be present in an amount from 0.1%to 15%by weight, such as from 0.15%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I) or to the total weight of the neutralizer composition II) .
  • the kit according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one amphoteric Surfactant, which may also be called as zwitterionic surfactant, in reducer composition I) and/or neutralizer composition II) , preferably in neutralizer composition II) .
  • amphoteric Surfactant which may also be called as zwitterionic surfactant, in reducer composition I) and/or neutralizer composition II) , preferably in neutralizer composition II) .
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • alkylbetaine examples include behenylbetaine, cetyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, decylbetaine. From alkylbetaines, cocoylbetaine is preferred, for example the products sold by the company Rhodia under the tradename BB/FLA.
  • the at least one amphoteric Surfactant may be present in an amount from 0.5%to 20%by weight, such as from 0.5%to 10%by weight, or from 1%to 6%by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I) or to the total weight of the neutralizer composition II) .
  • the reducer composition I) or the neutralizer composition II) according to the invention can each advantageously comprise one or more solvent (s) , e.g., water and/or organic solvent.
  • solvent e.g., water and/or organic solvent.
  • the reducer composition I) or the neutralizer composition II) according to the invention may advantageously comprises water in various amounts.
  • water is used in a content of greater than or equal to 40%by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
  • the water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 40%to 90%by weight, more preferably from 50%to 85%by weight, or from 60%to 80%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the reducer composition I) or the neutralizer composition II) according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents, preferably water-soluble organic solvents (solubility of greater than or equal to 5%in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure) .
  • organic solvents examples include linear or branched, and preferably saturated, monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol) , neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1, 5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C 1 -C 4 alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or
  • the organic solvents when they are present, may be represent between 0%and 20%by weight relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I) or the neutralizer composition II) according to the invention, and preferably between 0.1%and 15%by weight, or between 0.3%and 5%by weight.
  • no alcohol, in particular polyol is intentionally added into the composition of the invention as an organic solvent.
  • the reducer composition I) or the neutralizer composition II) according to the present invention may be free of any polyol.
  • compositions of the present invention are provided for application to keratin fibers, such as skin or hair.
  • the compositions of the present invention can comprise various ingredients conventionally useful in compositions for treating keratin fibers, such as, active ingredients, humectants, fatty substances, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, fragrances and preserving agents.
  • additives may be selected variously by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture.
  • the additives, if used, and the amounts thereof are particularly determined according to the specific products/applications thereof, e.g., lotion, leave-on conditioner, perm, cream, rinse-off conditioner, emulsion and the like.
  • additives may be present in the composition in an amount from 0.01%to 50%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and further such as from 0.1%to 30%by weight (if present) , including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the kit according to the present invention can be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose the method of preparation, on the basis of his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example, their solubility in the vehicle, and the application envisaged for the compositions or the kit.
  • the kit according to the present invention can be used for treating keratin fibers, especially hair.
  • This use may manifest itself as a process for treating keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising the step applying to said keratin fibers the composition of the invention.
  • the kit according to the present invention is preferably useful to produce a perm product.
  • the reducer composition I) is firstly applied to hair, optionally cleansed with a shampoo or the like, and then the neutralizer composition II) is applied.
  • the reducer composition I) and the neutralizer composition II) of the kit according to the present invention may be preferably placed in two chambers separate from one another, e.g., for the perm product.
  • compositions/formulas described below were expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.
  • compositions were prepared according to known manufacturing method of field.
  • compositions were obtained for perm product according to the present invention.
  • compositions of Ex. 1 were evaluated according to the following steps:
  • compositions according to examples were prepared;
  • the hair swatches were respectively winded on the rod and were wrapped with clips outside, using the rubber band to fix the clip;

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Abstract

A composition for treating keratin fibers comprises I) a reducer composition I), comprising the components of : I-1) a cationic cellulose-based polymer; and I-2) a silicone; and II) a neutralizer composition II), comprising II-1) a cationic polymer; and II-2) an amino silicone.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, in particular the hair. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular the hair, using the composition of the present invention.
BACKGROUND
Cosmetic and personal care products for use on keratinous substrates such as hair are available commercially in various forms, for example, as creams, lotions, gels, pastes, and powders. Regardless of the form, these products have to achieve and provide certain benefits and attributes such as efficaciousness, cosmeticity, desirable texture, stable formulations, and ease and convenience of use and application. Thus, in order to meet consumer needs and preferences, manufacturers of such products continuously seek to re-formulate and create new products with enhanced efficacy, while still remaining stable and safe to use.
One area where manufacturers are always seeking to improve in is in the area of hair cosmetic products such as those products designed to change the appearance, shape or configuration of hair as well as to provide hair care benefits of manageability, frizz control, volume reduction, and improved quality of the hair fiber. Examples of such hair cosmetic products are hair relaxers or hair straighteners which can relax or straighten curly or kinky hair, including wavy hair. Other hair cosmetic products are perms and waving compositions for providing curl or shape to hair. These products may increase the manageability and ease of styling hair and they may either be applied in a hair salon by a professional or in the home by the individual consumer.
It is desirable to find alternatives to improve the properties of hair cosmetic products, such as suitable coating amount and good smoothness.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
One subject of the present invention is thus a kit for treating keratin fibers comprising:
I) a reducer composition I) , comprising the components of:
I-1) a cationic cellulose-based polymer,
I-2) a silicone,
I-3) a reducer, and
I-4) optionally a fatty substance; and
II) a neutralizer composition II) , comprising
II-1) a cationic polymer, preferably being a polyquaternium in liquid form,
II-2) an amino silicone,
II-3) an oxidizer, and
II-4) optionally an amphoteric surfactant.
The kit according to the present invention is particularly useful for a perm product.
The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular keratin fibers on body surface, especially hair, using the kit according to the invention.
EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION
Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one" , unless otherwise mentioned. Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the description, including the claims, an embodiment defined with “comprising” or the like should be understood to encompass a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting substantially of” and a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting of” .
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of components and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about, " with conventionally known meaning in the art, e.g., within 10%of the indicated number (e.g. "about 10%" means 9%-11%and "about 2%" means 1.8%-2.2%) .
Throughout the description, including the claims, the “keratin fiber” according to the present invention is preferably hair.
In the application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, contents, parts and  percentages are expressed on a weight basis.
Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
Composition I) , reducer composition
The reducer composition I) according to the invention comprises a cationic cellulose-based polymer, use as of component I-1) .
Cationic cellulose-based polymer
The composition I) according to the present invention comprises one or more cationic cellulose-based polymers.
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic cellulose-based polymer" denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) cellulose-based polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and preferably not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
According to the invention, the term "cellulose-based polymer" comprises any polysaccharide compound having in its structure at least 20 sequences of glucose residues bonded together via β-1, 4 linkages. The cellulose-based polymer may be associative, i.e. it may bear in its structure at least one C8-C30 fatty chain.
Alternatively, the cellulose-based polymer may be non-associative, i.e. not bearing any C8-C30 fatty chains.
The cationiccellulose-based polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 5000 and 5x10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3x10 6 approximately.
Among cationic celluloses, mention may more particularly be made of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups optionally modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are in particular described in FR 1 492597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400  and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as hydroxyethylcelluloses that have reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group and called Polyquaternium-10.
The cationic cellulose copolymers or celluloses grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or di methyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch. Among the quaternized celluloses, mention may in particular be made of quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Mention may notably be made of the polymers having the following INCI names:
- Polyquaternium-24, such as the product Quatrisoft LM
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000001
sold by Amerchol/Dow Chemical;
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as theproduct Crodacel
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000002
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl) , such as the product Crodacel
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000003
and
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl) , such as the product Crodacel
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000004
sold by Croda.
Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (lb) wherein R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R′ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide; preferentially, R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3) 3N+-, Cl and R′ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3) 2 (Ci2H25) N+-, Cl . This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000005
polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical.
More particularly, the cationic cellulose-based polymer is chosen from hydroxyethylcelluloses that have reacted with a trimethylammoniumepoxide and a lauryldimethylammonium epoxide (INCI name: Polyquaternium-67) and hydroxyethylcelluloses that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group and called Polyquaternium-10.
The cationic cellulose-based polymer may be present in an amount ranging for example from 0.01%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I) .
Silicone
The kit of the invention can comprise at least one silicone, used as component I-2) . The useful silicone can comprise amino silicone and in particular silicone elastomer blend.
Silicone elastomer blend
Silicone elastomer blends useful according to various embodiments of the disclosure may comprise at least one silicone cross-polymer dispersed in at least one oil.
The at least one silicone cross-polymer may, in certain embodiments, be chosen from dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-polymers and dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone cross-polymers. In other embodiments, the silicone cross-polymer may be modified by one or more groups chosen from alkyl, polyether, polyglycerin groups. For instance, the alkyl modified silicone cross-polymers may be chosen from vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone cross-polymers, cetearyl dimethicone cross-polymers, and C 30-C 45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone cross-polymers. Non-limiting examples of  polyether modified silicone cross-polymers include dimethicone/PEG-10/15 cross-polymers. Suitable alkyl and polyether modified silicone cross-polymers may be chosen, for example, from PEG-10/lauryl dimethicone cross-polymers and PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross-polymers. Exemplary polyglycerin modified silicone cross-polymers include dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 cross-polymers and lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 cross-polymers.
The silicone cross-polymer may be dispersed in at least one oil. In certain embodiments, the oil may be chosen from silicone oils, such as cyclic and linear organopolysiloxanes. Cyclic organopolysiloxanes may include, for example, cyclotetrasiloxane; cyclopentasiloxane; and methylated cyclic organopolysiloxanes, e.g., octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Non-limiting examples of linear organopolysiloxanes include low molecular weight dimethicones; high molecular weight dimethicones; alkyl derivatives of linear organopolysiloxanes, e.g., cetyl dimethicone and lauryl trimethicone; aryl derivatives of linear organopolysiloxanes, e.g., phenyl trimethicone; and hydroxylated derivatives of linear organopolysiloxanes, e.g., dimethiconol. In other embodiments, the oil may be chosen from organic oils, such as mineral oil; linear and branched alkanes, e.g., isododecane; triethylhexanoin; and squalane.
Preferably, each of the silicone cross-polymer and the silicone oil is free of amine group.
The at least one silicone cross-polymer may, in one embodiment, range from 5%to 35%by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone elastomer blend, for example, from 10%to 20%by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. The at least one oil may range from 65%to 95%by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone elastomer blend, such as from 80%to 90%by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Non-limiting examples of commercially available silicone elastomer blends include the products sold under the KSG product line by Shin-Etsu, such as KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-210, and KSG-18; the products sold under the VELVESIL product line by Momentive, such as VELVESIL 125 and VELVESIL DM; and the products sold under the DOWSIL TM Liquid Satin Blend product line by Dow, such as DOWSIL TM 3901 Liquid Satin Blend and DOWSIL TM 3903 Liquid Satin Blend.
The at least one silicone elastomer blend may be present in the kit in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 20%by weight, such as from 0.5%to 15%by weight, or from 1%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I) , including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Composition (I) also contains a reducer. This reducer can be any current reducers known for treating hair, preferably the reducers conventionally used for perm.
Reducer
Reducers present in the invention can be any reducer useful for treating hair, preferably perming hair. It can be a thiol reducer or a non thiol reducer.
Non thiol reducers can be selected from sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. More preferably, the non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably alkali metal or alkali earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, and more preferably sodium sulfites and bisulfites.
According to one embodiment, the reducer can be a thiol-based compound.
The kit of the invention may comprise at least one thiol-based compound selected from thioglycolic acid, thioglycerol, thiolactic acid, their derivatives, their salts, and mixtures thereof.
The at least one thiol-based compound of the present disclosure can be used as a combination of two or more therebetween or with other thiol-based compounds selected from cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine, glutathione, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, their salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
The at least one thiol-based compound of the present disclosure can be a salt formed from alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal sulfites, ammonium or phosphines, and mixtures thereof.
In certain embodiments, the thiol-based compound used in the composition of the invention is thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid or a salt thereof, e.g., an ammonium, for instance ammonium thioglycolate.
The at least one thiol-based compound may be present in the kit in an amount ranging from 1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 1.5%to 10%by weight, or preferably from 3%to 9%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
In certain embodiments, the at least one thiol-based compound is selected from thiolactic acid and is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 1%, 1.25%, 1.5%, 1 . 75%, 2%, 2.25%, 2.5%, or about 2.75%, 3%, 3.25%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.25%, 4.5%, 4.75%, 5%, 5.25%, 5.5%, 5.75%, 6%, 6.25%, 6.5%, 6.75%, 7%, 7.25%, 7.5%, 7.75%, 8%, 8.25%, 8.5%, 8.75%, 9%, 9.5%, 10%, 10.5%, 11%, 11.5%, 12%, 13%, or 14%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Alkaline agent
According to one embodiment, reducing composition (I) contains an alkaline agent. Such alkaline agent may be selected from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organic amines, hydroxide base compounds, and mixtures thereof, particularly from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof.
Organic amines may be selected from amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (or aminomethyl propanol) , ethylamines, ethyleneamines, alkanolamines, cyclic amines and other cyclic compounds, saturated or unsaturated, having one or more nitrogen atoms within the ring, and mixtures thereof.
The organic amines may be chosen from the ones having a pKb at 25℃ of less than 12, such as less than 10 or such as less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.
Organic amines may be chosen from organic amines comprising one or two primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functions, and at least one linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing at least one hydroxyl radical.
Organic amines may also be chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di-or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine, pyridine, piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.
Among the compounds of the alkanolamine type that may be mentioned include but not limited to: monoethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA) , diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3 -propanediol, 3 -amino-1, 2-propanediol, 3 -dimethylamino-1, 2-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, and tris (hydroxymethylamino) methane.
Other examples include but are not limited to: 1, 3-diaminopropane, 1, 3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.
In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acids.
As non-limiting examples, the amino acids that may be used may be of natural or synthetic origin, in L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen from, for instance, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in their neutral or ionic form.
Amino acids that may be used in the present disclosure include but are not limited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine.
Further as non-limiting examples, the amino acids may be chosen from basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function. Such basic amino acids may be chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline.
In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, non-limiting mention may also be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, 1, 2, 4-triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole.
In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present disclosure include but not limited to: carnosine, anserine, and baleine.
In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. Organic amines of this type that may be used in the present disclosure include, besides arginine that has already been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1, 1 -dimethylguanidine, 1, 1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin,  agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and 2- ( [amino (imino) methyl] amino) ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.
The alkali metal phosphates and carbonates that may be used are, for example, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and their derivatives.
The hydroxide base compounds chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and mixtures thereof. Suitable examples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, caesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.
The at least one alkaline agent may be chosen from at least one organic amine such as at least one alkanolamine. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (aminomethyl propanol) , ethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA) , triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof. An even more particularly preferred alkanolamine is ethanolamine.
According to at least one embodiment, the at least one alkaline agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
According to another preferred embodiment, the at least one alkaline agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
The alkaline agent may be present in the kit in an amount ranging from 0.2%to 5.5%by weight, more preferably from 0.3%to 5%by weight, even more preferably from 0.3%to 4.6%by weight, based on the total weight of the reducer composition I) , including all ranges and subranges there between.
Fatty substance
The reducer composition I) according to the invention can comprise, optionally, a cosmetically acceptable fatty substance.
The term “fatty substance” means organic compounds that are insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1%and even more preferentially 0.1%) . They may preferably have in their structure a sequence of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclo-pentasiloxane.
The fatty substances are especially chosen from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils, in particular mineral, plant, animal or synthetic non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes, and silicones.
For the purposes of the invention, the fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is (are) optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4) . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
As regards lower alkanes, these alkanes comprise from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic. By way of example, the alkanes may be chosen from hexane and dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
As non-silicone oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sweet almond oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesameseed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000006
810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms and of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000007
- fluoro oils, for instance perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1, 3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000008
PC1 and
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000009
PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1, 2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000010
and PF
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000011
by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000012
by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000013
by the company 3M.
The fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition of the invention are not oxyalkylenated. They are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol) , octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.
The esters useful are esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1-C 26 aliphatic mono-or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1-C 26 aliphatic mono-or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C 12-C 15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl,  myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
Still in the context of this variant, esters of C 4-C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1-C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2-C 26 di-, tri-, tetra-or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
The following may especially be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; ethylene glycol distearate; diethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol distearate.
The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6-C 30 and preferably C 12-C 22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygenous hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose) , glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6-C 30 and preferably C 12-C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates,  myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate mixed esters.
It is more particularly preferred to use monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
Advantageously, the content of fatty substance (s) ranges from 0.1%to 30%by weight, or from 1%to 15%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (I) .
Composition II) , neutralizer composition
The neutralizer composition comprises at least one oxidant. Oxidants are of the commonly used type and contains e. g . hydrogen peroxide, an alkali metal bromate, a persalt, a polythionate or an alkali metal bromate/persalt mixture. The hydrogen peroxide concentration can vary from 1 to 20 volumes, preferably from 1 to 10 volumes, the alkali metal bromate concentration can vary from 1%to 12%by weight and the persalt concentration can vary from 0.1%to 15%by weight, based on the total weight of the neutralizer composition II) . The pH of the neutralizer composition is generally between 2 and 10.
For the purpose of the invention, the alkali metal bromate may be preferably used, in an amount preferably of 2%to 8%by weight, based on the total weight of the neutralizer composition II) .
The neutralizer composition II) according to the invention preferably comprises a polyquaternium in liquid form, i.e., liquid polyquaternium. Nonetheless, the liquid polyquaternium useful for the composition II) is preferably one different from the (poly) quaternium compound selected from Polyquaternium-10 and Polyquaternium-67 used for the composition I) .
For the purpose of the present invention, “liquid” can be one not in solid or gas phase, encompassing those having very high viscosity, e.g., those generally deemed as “semi-solid” , and also encompassing those dispersion systems (comprising emulsion) containing a certain content of solid.
It is actually known that a cationic polymer is generally added into a hair kit, especially a perm product. For a perm product, the cationic polymer can be added into  either of the reducer composition or neutralizer composition, or into the both; while generally, the cationic polymer is more usually added into the reducer. For the purpose of the present invention, however, it is believed that the addition of a cationic polymer into the neutralizer composition is preferable.
Cationic Polymers
The cationic polymers of the present disclosure contain at least one carboxyl group.
The cationic polymer can have a negative charge but remains cationic overall, can be an amphoteric polymer that can carry a cationic charge, or can be a betaine polymer that remains amphoteric at any pH.
The liquid polyquaternium II-1 can be polymers that result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen from: (i) at least one nonionic monomer such as (Alkyl) (Meth) Acrylamide, (Alkyl) (Meth) Acrylate Ester, Vinyl Pyrrolidone, Vinyl Imidazole; (ii) at least one cationic monomer such as Ethyltrimonium (Alkyl) (Meth) Acrylamide, Ethyltrimonium (Alkyl) (Meth) Acrylate Ester, Vinylimidazoline, Dimethylaminopropyl (Alkyl) (Meth) Acrylamide, Methacrylamidopropyl Triethyl Ammonium Chloride (MAPTAC) , Diallyl Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride (DADMAC) ; (iii) at least one (Alkyl) Acrylic acid; (iv) at least one amphoteric monomer such as a carboxybetaine zwitterionic monomer.
Suitable examples of such liquid polyquaterniums are: the diallyidimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid copolymers sold under the names MERQUAT 280 POLYMER or MERQUAT 280NP POLYMER or MERQUAT 281 POLYMER or MERQUAT 295 POLYMER, by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-22) ; the copolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, of acrylic acid and or methyl acrylate, sold under the name MERQUAT 2001 POLYMER OR MERQUAT 2001 N POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-47) ; the acrylamide/dimethyldiallylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymer sold under the name MERQUAT 3330DRY POLYMER or MERQUAT 3330PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3331 PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3940 POLYMER or MERQUAT PLUS 3330 POLYMER OR MERQUAT PLUS 3331 POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-39) ; an  ampholytic terpolymer consisting of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC) , acrylamide and acrylic acid, sold under the name MERQUAT 2003PR POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-53) ; Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7; Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-54; Polyquaternium-57; Polyquaternium-63; Polyquaternium-74; Polyquatemium-76; Polyquaternium-86; Polyquaternium-89; Polyquaternium-95; Polyquaternium-98, Polyquatemium-104; Polyquaternium-111; Polyquaternium-112, and mixtures thereof.
Amongst the others, the polyquaternium compounds are particularly preferable for the purpose of the present invention when obtained from acrylamide or acrylic acid monomers, preferably from acrylamide monomers.
Polyquaternium in liquid form
Although conventional cationic polymers can be used in the neutralizer composition II) , it is believed, without being limited with any known theory, that polyquaternium in liquid form can be particularly beneficial for use in the neutralizer composition II) , as component II-1) .
By way of example, Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7 can be particularly mentioned as a liquid polyquaternium useful for the present invention wherein the polyquaterniums are in an aqueous form.
The component II-1) is present in the compositions according to the disclosure in amounts range from 0.01%to 20%by weight, and in some embodiments from 0.01%to 15%by weight, and in some further embodiments from 0.05%to 10%by weight, relative to the total amount of the neutralizer composition II) .
Amino silicone
The neutralizer composition II) comprises amino silicone, preferably non-volatile amino silicone oils useful as component II-2) .
According to an embodiment of the invention, the amino silicone useful as the component II-2) may also be used for the silicone of component I-2) .
For the purpose of the invention, the terms of “silicone” and “silicone oil” can be used exchangeable to one another.
The non-volatile amino silicone oil for use as component II-2) can be preferably free of phenyl group, i.e., a non-phenyl silicone. The term "non-phenyl" denotes a compound not bearing any phenyl substituents.
Silicone is usually used as an oil for various cosmetic purpose. Amongst others, an amino silicone is particularly interested. The term “amino silicone” is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group (i.e., a quaternized group) .
A silicone may bear the amine group on the skeleton chain in the molecule, called as an amino-terminal silicone, or bear the amine group on the pendent chain, called as an amino-grafted silicone.
Amino silicones are described, for example, in US2011/0155163 and US2011/155164, both of which are herein incorporated by reference.
Non-limiting examples include amodimethicone, silicone quaternium-22, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone, bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, quaternium-80, methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 aminopropyl dimethicone, silicone quaternium-22, bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG- amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, PEG-7 amodimethicone, silicone quaternium-8, visamino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, polysilicone-19, silicone quaternium-18, and mixtures thereof. The mixture useful can comprise particularly an emulsion of dimethicone and amodimethicone.
Preferably, the aminosilicone is under the form of an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:
- a silicone mixture comprising (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane (s) having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa. s at 25℃ and (ii) one or more amino silicone (s) having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa. s at 25℃ and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
- a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
- water.
Such a silicone is known under INCI name DIMETHICONE (and) AMODIMETHICONE (and) TRIDECETH-10 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (and) STEARETH-6 (and) TRIDECETH-3.
Advantageously, the component II-2) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 20%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the neutralizer composition II) .
Surfactant
The compositions according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one surfactant, e.g., an amphoteric, nonionic surfactant, or a mixture thereof, in particular at least one nonionic surfactant, and/or at least one amphoteric surfactant.
Nonionic surfactant
According to an embodiment of the invention, the kit according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant, for use as component, in reducer composition I) and/or neutralizer composition II) .
Examples of the useful nonionic surfactants may comprise esters of (poly) alcohols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units, such as the glyceryl esters of C 8-C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C 8-C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C 8-C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of C 8-C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C 8-C 24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
For the purpose of the invention, useful esters for component C) can preferably comprise 21 or more carbon atoms. That is to say, regarding fatty acid esters, those having 20 or less carbon atoms, e.g., C 12-C 20 fatty acid esters, can be used as component  B);while fatty acid esters having 21 or more carbon atoms are useful as component C) .
Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, or glyceryl ricinoleate) , and mixtures thereof.
Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 40 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) , polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) , and mixtures thereof.
Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000014
165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000015
by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) ; or a mixture containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.
Fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for instance methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for instance methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially the diester of methylglucoside and of oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate) ; the mixed ester of methylglucoside and of the oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxysterate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate) ; the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate) ; the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name 
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000016
SS by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned include the oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl  glucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) , such as the product sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000017
E-20 distearate by the company Amerchol; the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000018
SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the product sold under the name
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000019
PSE-20 by the company Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.
Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol or of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) . Examples that may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
The nonionic surfactant may be present in an amount from 0.1%to 15%by weight, such as from 0.15%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I) or to the total weight of the neutralizer composition II) .
Amphoteric Surfactant
According to an embodiment of the invention, the kit according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one amphoteric Surfactant, which may also be called as zwitterionic surfactant, in reducer composition I) and/or neutralizer composition II) , preferably in neutralizer composition II) .
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
Mention may be made in particular of (C 8-C 20) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8-C 20  alkyl) amido (C 2-C 8 alkyl) betaines and (C 8-C 20 alkyl) amido (C 2-C 8 alkyl) sulfobetaines.
Among the (C 8-C 20) alkylbetaines, mentions may be made of behenylbetaine, cetyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, decylbetaine. From alkylbetaines, cocoylbetaine is preferred, for example the products sold by the company Rhodia under the tradename
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000020
BB/FLA.
The at least one amphoteric Surfactant, if present, may be present in an amount from 0.5%to 20%by weight, such as from 0.5%to 10%by weight, or from 1%to 6%by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I) or to the total weight of the neutralizer composition II) .
Solvent
The reducer composition I) or the neutralizer composition II) according to the invention can each advantageously comprise one or more solvent (s) , e.g., water and/or organic solvent.
Water
The reducer composition I) or the neutralizer composition II) according to the invention may advantageously comprises water in various amounts. For example, water is used in a content of greater than or equal to 40%by weight relative to the total weight of each composition. The water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 40%to 90%by weight, more preferably from 50%to 85%by weight, or from 60%to 80%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Organic solvent
The reducer composition I) or the neutralizer composition II) according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents, preferably water-soluble organic solvents (solubility of greater than or equal to 5%in water at 25℃ and at atmospheric pressure) .
Examples of the organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched, and preferably saturated, monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol) , neopentyl  glycol and 3-methyl-1, 5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C 1-C 4 alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
The organic solvents, when they are present, may be represent between 0%and 20%by weight relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I) or the neutralizer composition II) according to the invention, and preferably between 0.1%and 15%by weight, or between 0.3%and 5%by weight. According to an embodiment of the present invention, no alcohol, in particular polyol, is intentionally added into the composition of the invention as an organic solvent. For example, the reducer composition I) or the neutralizer composition II) according to the present invention may be free of any polyol.
Additional Additives
According to various embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are provided for application to keratin fibers, such as skin or hair. In accordance with these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention can comprise various ingredients conventionally useful in compositions for treating keratin fibers, such as, active ingredients, humectants, fatty substances, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, fragrances and preserving agents.
A non-exhaustive listing of such ingredients can be found in U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the reducer composition I) or the neutralizer composition II) according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
These additives may be selected variously by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or  texture. In particular, the additives, if used, and the amounts thereof are particularly determined according to the specific products/applications thereof, e.g., lotion, leave-on conditioner, perm, cream, rinse-off conditioner, emulsion and the like.
These additives may be present in the composition in an amount from 0.01%to 50%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and further such as from 0.1%to 30%by weight (if present) , including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Method and use
The kit according to the present invention can be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose the method of preparation, on the basis of his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example, their solubility in the vehicle, and the application envisaged for the compositions or the kit.
According to an embodiment, the kit according to the present invention can be used for treating keratin fibers, especially hair. This use may manifest itself as a process for treating keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising the step applying to said keratin fibers the composition of the invention.
The kit according to the present invention is preferably useful to produce a perm product. For the perm product, the reducer composition I) is firstly applied to hair, optionally cleansed with a shampoo or the like, and then the neutralizer composition II) is applied.
Accordingly, the reducer composition I) and the neutralizer composition II) of the kit according to the present invention may be preferably placed in two chambers separate from one another, e.g., for the perm product.
The invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, which set forth particularly advantageous embodiments.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the present invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the  present invention without limiting the scope as a result.
EXAMPLES
The ingredient amounts/concentrations in the compositions/formulas described below were expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed below. Materials without specification here were each commercially available.
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000021
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000022
Example A
Reducer composition and neutralizer composition comprising the ingredients listed  in tables 1 and 2, respectively, were formulated:
Table 1: Reducer composition
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000023
Table 2: Neutralizer composition
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000024
*DIMETHICONE (and) AMODIMETHICONE (and) TRIDECETH-10 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (and) STEARETH-6 (and) TRIDECETH-3,
The above listed compositions were prepared according to known manufacturing method of field.
Compositions were obtained for perm product according to the present invention.
Example B
The compositions of Ex. 1 were evaluated according to the following steps:
The detailed procedure of preparing above examples is as below:
1) . all materials were provided;
2) . compositions according to examples were prepared;
3) . hair swatches were shampooed;
4) . the reducers were respectively applied on hair swatches, and stayed for 15 min;
5) . the reducers were respectively rinsed-off by tap water;
6) . the hair swatches were respectively winded on the rod and were wrapped with clips outside, using the rubber band to fix the clip;
7) . the hair swatches were respectively heated for 10 min at 80 ℃ and 15 min at 120 ℃;
8) . the hair swatches were respectively cooled to room temperature and the clips were removed;
9) . the neutralizer compositions were respectively applied on hair and stayed for 10 min;
10) . the neutralizer compositions were respectively rinsed-off under tap water and towel dried;
and then for each hair swatch:
11) . hair swatches were washed with a cleansing shampoo;
12) . then a sensory evaluation was respectively performed by 6 hair dressers for each hair swatch; and
13) . the scores of sensory from the 6 hair dressers were collected and the average scores were given below.
Table 3: Average score of sensory
Figure PCTCN2022111961-appb-000025

Claims (17)

  1. A kit for treating keratin fibers, comprising:
    I) a reducer composition I) , comprising:
    I-1) a cationic cellulose-based polymer,
    I-2) a silicone,
    I-3) a reducer, and
    I-4) optionally a fatty substance; and
    II) a neutralizer composition II) , comprising
    II-1) a cationic polymer,
    II-2) an amino silicone,
    II-3) an oxidant, and
    II-4) optionally an amphoteric surfactant.
  2. The kit according to claim 1, wherein the cationic cellulose-based polymer is Polyquaternium-67 and/or Polyquaternium-10.
  3. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic cellulose-based polymer is present in an amount ranging for example from 0.01 to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I) .
  4. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone is a silicone elastomer blend formed from a silicone cross-polymer dispersed in an oil, for which each of the silicone cross-polymer and the silicone oil is free of amine group.
  5. The kit according to claim 4, wherein the silicone cross-polymer is chosen from dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-polymers and dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone cross-polymers.
  6. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone elastomer blend is present in the kit in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 40%by weight,  such as from 0.5%to 20%by weight, or from 1%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I) .
  7. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising, in the reducer composition I) an alkaline agent selected from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organic amines, hydroxide base compounds, and mixtures thereof, particularly from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, 3-amino-1, 2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1, 2-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, and tris (hydroxymethylamino) methane.
  8. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the reducer is a thiol-based compound selected from thioglycolic acid, thioglycerol, thiolactic acid, their derivatives, their salts, and mixtures thereof.
  9. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a fatty substance, preferably selected from the group consisting of lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils, in particular mineral, plant, animal or synthetic non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes, and silicones.
  10. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polymer of component II-1) is an acrylamide polyquaternium, preferably in liquid form, preferably selected from Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7 in water.
  11. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein cationic polymer of component II-1) is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 20%by weight, preferably from 0.01%to 15%by weight, or preferably from 0.05%to 10%by weight, relative to the total amount of the neutralizer composition II) .
  12. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amino  silicone of component II-2) is selected from the group consisting of amodimethicone, silicone quaternium-22, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone , bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, quaternium-80, methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 aminopropyl dimethicone, silicone quaternium-22 , bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, PEG-7 amodimethicone, silicone quaternium-8, visamino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, polysilicone-19, silicone quaternium-18, and mixtures thereof.
  13. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aminosilicone is under the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm. and comprising:
    - a silicone mixture comprising (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane (s) having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa. s at 25℃ and (ii) one or more amino silicone (s) having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa. s at 25℃ and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
    - a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
    - water.
  14. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amino silicone of component II-2) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 8%by weight, relative to the total weight of the neutralizer composition II) .
  15. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, in the neutralizer composition II) the amphoteric surfactant, preferably selected from the group consisting of (C 8-C 20) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8-C 20 alkyl) amido (C 2-C 8 alkyl) betaines and (C 8-C 20 alkyl) amido (C 2-C 8 alkyl) sulfobetaines.
  16. The kit according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising, in the reducer composition I) and/or in the neutralizer composition II) , a nonionic surfactant.
  17. Use of the kit according to any one of claims 1 to 16 in preparing a product for treating keratin fibers, particularly for perming hair.
PCT/CN2022/111961 2022-08-12 2022-08-12 Composition for treating keratin fibers WO2024031596A1 (en)

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US20080185014A1 (en) * 2006-12-22 2008-08-07 Catherine Campain Method for permanently reshaping keratin fibers comprising applying a poorly concentrated reducing composition and intermediate drying
US20130233333A1 (en) * 2010-10-01 2013-09-12 L'oreal Process for treating keratin fibres using at least one sulfureous reducing agent, at least one cationic polymer and at least one mercaptosiloxane
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