AU4482497A - Non-aerosol mousse compositions - Google Patents

Description

WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 1 NON-AEROSOL MOUSSE COMPOSITIONS 5 TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a non-aerosol mousse composition which can provide good foam density, good setting power, good dispensability, low 10 stickiness, and good spreadability in the absence of pressurized propellants. BACKGROUND Leave-on foaming cosmetic compositions for hair are usually referred to as "mousses", which term will be used in the present invention. Mousses were 15 born in Europe in the early 1980s. Mousses are fundamentally an aerosol foam, however, non-aerosol foams are also known. Mousses are formulated for the purpose of styling, setting, and arranging, or for other purposes such as shampooing, conditioning, treating, dyeing, and combinations thereof. Mousses can be applied to the hair by spreading it through the hair with the user's hand or 20 with a comb designed for the purpose. The general appeal of mousses can be largely attributed to the ease of application and capability to provide control as to the amount and distribution of product. In the art, mousse compositions are generally formulated with pressurized propellants and packed in pressure resistant bomb-type packaging which is 25 equipped with, for example, a compressible dispenser, a nozzle, or a valve. Selection of the type and quantity of propellants are known to affect the characteristic of the foam. Favorable propellants for providing a good foam, such as LPG and dimethylether, are generally highly flammable and less safe for the consumer. 30 Further, the pressure resistant packages used for containing pressurized propellants are expensive, and require special procedures in the manufacturing process. This can result in a costly product. Further, pressure resistant packages cannot be re-filled by the consumer, and are difficult to re-use or re cycle in the industry. This is not preferable from an environmental standpoint.

WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 2 Attempts to provide mousse compositions without pressurized propellant have been suggested in the art. However, lack of pressurized propellant generally provided products with poor foam appearance and stability, which resulted in a product having less control of amount and distribution to the hair. 5 Based on the foregoing, there is a need for a mousse composition which does not include a pressurized propellant, yet still providing the good foaming characteristics typically obtained by pressurized propellant-containing mousse compositions. None of the existing art provides all of the advantages and benefits of the 10 present invention. SUMMARY The present invention is directed to a non-aerosol mousse composition comprising: (a) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a primary fixative 15 polymer selected from betainized amphoteric fixative polymers; and (b) an aqueous carrier comprising no more than about 30% of a volatile solvent by weight to the composition; wherein the composition is substantially free of pressurized propellants, and is capable of generating a foam having a foam density of from about 0.025g/mL to about 0.1g/mL. 20 These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will become evident to those skilled in the art from a reading of the present disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION 25 While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing and distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description. All percentages are by weight of the total composition unless otherwise indicated. All ratios are weight ratios unless otherwise indicated. All 30 percentages, ratios, and levels of ingredients referred to herein are based on the actual amount of the ingredient, and do not include solvents, fillers, or other materials with which the ingredient may be combined as commercially available products, unless otherwise indicated.

WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 3 As used herein, "comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients which do not affect the end result can be added. This term encompasses the terms "consisting of' and "consisting essentially of'. All cited references are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties. 5 Citation of any reference is not an admission regarding any determination as to its availability as prior art to the claimed invention. FIXATIVE POLYMERS The primary fixative polymer and optional secondary fixative polymers useful herein are those which provide a styling or setting benefit to the hair. The 10 fixative polymers in this section can be distinguished from the conditioning agent polymers as mentioned below in that fixative polymers have a film-forming characteristic. Compositions herein comprise a primary fixative polymer and optionally a secondary fixative polymer. Primary fixative polymers are selected from 15 betainized amphoteric fixative polymers. Preferably, a secondary fixative polymer is contained. Secondary fixative polymers are selected from the group consisting of non-betainized amphoteric fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers, silicone grafted copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Preferred secondary fixative polymers are 20 non-betainized amphoteric fixative polymers, and anionic fixative polymers. The primary fixative polymer and optional secondary fixative polymers are selected so that, the composition is capable of generating a foam having a foam density of from about 0.025g/mL to about 0.1g/mL, preferably not more than about 0.075g/mL, more preferably not more than about 0.065g/mL, in the 25 absence of any pressurized propellant. It is believed that such foam density provides good foaming characteristics, such as good foam appearance and good foam retention time, which allow the ease of application and control of the amount and distribution of the product to the hair. The compositions herein further have a low viscosity, i.e., the 3% water 30 solution provides a viscosity of less than about 50cps. This can be perceived as good dispensability and low stickiness of the product to the consumer. The compositions herein still further have good setting power. By using the primary fixative polymer and optional secondary fixative polymers, a composition which provides high foamability is provided. Thus, 35 compositions herein do not require the aid of pressurized propellants. Rather, WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 4 propellants are preferably not included, as propellants may provide a foam having such long retention time that it would cause insufficient dosage of the product. The total of the fixative polymers are preferably included at a level of from 5 about 0.2% to about 15% by weight of the composition. The primary fixative polymer is comprised at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the composition. The secondary fixative polymer, when present, is comprised at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight of the composition. When 10 more than one polymer is used for the secondary fixative polymer, each fixative polymer does not exceed about 2% by weight of the composition. Preferably, the level of the primary fixative polymer is higher than that of the secondary fixative polymer. Primary Fixative Polymers 15 Primary fixative polymers are selected from betainized amphoteric fixative polymers. Betainized amphoteric fixative polymers useful herein include those having structures (1) and (2). (1) Useful herein are polymers of betainized dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylamide containing at least units of 20 the formula:

R

1 (I) I - [CH 2 -C] R 3 25 I

COYR

2

N

+

-R

4

CH

2 30 coo wherein R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R 2 denotes an alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Y denotes O or -NH- and R 3 and R 4 independently of one another denote hydrogen or alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and one cationic derivative consisting of a cationic surfactant containing 35 at least one nitrogen atom joined to one or more fatty chains and optionally quaternised, or consisting of a cationic polymer of the polyamine, polyaminopolyamide or poly-(quaternary ammonium) type, the amine or WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 5 ammonium groups forming part of the polymer chain or being joined thereto. These polymers usually have a molecular weight of 500 to 2,000,000. The amphoteric polymers containing units corresponding to the above formula (I) are generally in the form of copolymers which contain, in addition to 5 the units of the above mentioned formula (I), at least units of the formula:

R

1 (II) I - [CH 2

-C

] I 10 COOR 5 wherein R 1 is as defined above and R 5 represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms or a cycloalkyl radical having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use terpolymers, tetrapolymers or pentapolymers 15 which contain, in addition to the units (I) and (11) defined above, units of the formula:

R

1 (III) I - [CH 2

-C

] 20 |

COOR

6 wherein R 6 preferably denotes an alkyl or alkenyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms and R 1 is as defined above. The units of the formula (I) are preferably present in an amount of 25 to 25 45% by weight, units of the formula (11) are preferably present in an amount of 5 to 65% by weight, and units of the formula (Ill) are preferably present in an amount up to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polymer. A particularly preferred polymer is the copolymer containing units of the formulae (I), (11) and (111) in which Y denotes an oxygen atom, R 2 denotes the 30 group -C 2

H

4 -, R 1 , R 3 and R 4 denote methyl, R 5 denotes an alkyl group having 4 to 18 carbon atoms and R 6 denotes an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms. The average molecular weight of this polymer is preferably from 50,000 to 100,000. This polymer is sold under the trademark "Yukaformer" or "Diaformer" supplied by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation. 35 (2) Useful herein are the betainized polymers containing zwitterionic units derived form the formula: WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 6

R

2

R

4

R

1- [-C-] x-N

+

- (CH 2 ) y- C00 1 1 5

R

3

R

5 wherein R 1 denotes a polymerisable unsaturated group, such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, x and y independently represent an integer from 1 to 3, R 2 and R 3 independently represent hydrogen, methyl, ethyl or propyl, and R 4 and R 5 independently represent a hydrogen atom 10 or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R 4 and R 5 does not exceed 10. Highly preferred betainized amphoteric polymers include commercially available material such as YUKAFORMER SM, YUKAFORMER FH, YUKAFORMER 301, YUKAFORMER 204WL, YUKAFORMER 510, 15 YUKAFORMER M-75, YUKAFORMER R250S, Diaformer Z-SM, and Diaformer Z-W supplied by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation. Secondary Fixative Polymers Secondary fixative polymers are selected from the group consisting of non-betainized amphoteric fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, cationic 20 fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers, silicone grafted copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Preferred secondary fixative polymers are non-betainized amphoteric fixative polymers, and anionic fixative polymers. Non-betanized Amphoteric Fixative Polymers Non-betainized amphoteric fixative polymers useful herein include those 25 having structures (3) and (4). (3) Useful herein are the non-betainized amphoteric polymers resulting from the copolymerisation of a vinyl monomer carrying at least one carboxyl group, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, crotonic acid, or alphachloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer which is a 30 substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic nitrogen atom, such as dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates and acrylates and dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides and -acrylamides. (4) Useful herein are the non-betainized amphoteric polymers containing units derived from 35 i) at least one monomer chosen from amongst acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl radical, WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 7 ii) at least one acid comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxyl groups, and iii) at least one basic comonomer, such as esters, with primary, secondary and tertiary amine substituents and quarternary 5 ammonium substituents, of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the product resulting from the quaternisation of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulphate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are most particularly preferred are the groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 10 12 carbon atoms, especially N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert.-butylacrylamide, N-tert.

octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide and N-dodecylacrylamide and also the corresponding methacrylamides. The acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from amongst acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids and also the alkyl monoesters of maleic acid or fumaric acid in 15 which alkyl has 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N' dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. Highly preferred non-betainized amphoteric polymers include commercially available material such as 20 octylacrylamine/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methoacrylate copolymers with the tradenames AMPHOMER, AMPHOMER SH701, AMPHOMER 28-4910, AMPHOMER LV71, and AMPHOMER LV47 supplied by National Starch & Chemical. Anionic Fixative Polymer 25 The anionic fixative polymers useful herein include polymers containing units derived from carboxylic, sulphonic or phosphoric acid and usually have a molecular weight of 500 to 5,000,000. These polymers are water-soluble polymers, it being possible for this solubility to be obtained by neutralization. The carboxylic acid groups can be provided by unsaturated 30 monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acids, such as those corresponding to the formula:

R

1 (A) n- COOH \ / C=C 35 / \

R

2

R

3 WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 8 wherein n is 0 or an integer from 1 to 10, A denotes a methylene group optionally joined to the carbon atom of the saturated group, or to the adjacent methylene group in the case where n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom, such as oxygen or 5 sulphur, R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or a carboxyl group and R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, CH 2 COOH, or a phenyl or benzyl group. According to the invention, the preferred polymers containing carboxylic acid groups are: 10 (1) Hompolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof, and in particular, the products sold under the name VERSICOL E or K, and ULTRAHOLD by BASF and under the name DARVAN No. 7 by Van der Bilt; acrylic acid/acrylamide copolymers sold in the form of their sodium salt under the name RETEN 421, 423 or 425 by HERCULES; and the sodium salts of 15 polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, sold under the name HYDAGEN F by HENKEL. (2) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer, such as ethylene, styrene, a vinyl or allyl ester or acrylic or methacrylic acid ester, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol, such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally corsslinked. Other such copolymers contain an optionally 20 N-alkylated and/or N-hydroxylated acrylamide unit in their chain, such as those sold under the name QUADRAMER 5 by American Cyanamid. (3) Copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as those containing, in their chain, vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers such as allyl of methallyl esters, a vinyl ether or a vinyl ester of a saturated linear or 25 branched carboxylic acid with a hydrocarbon chain of at least 5 carbon atoms, if appropriate, for these polymers to be grafted and crosslinked, or also a vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester of an a- or P-cyclic carboxylic acid. Included in this class are those with the tradename RESYN 28-2930, 28-2913, and 28-1310 sold by National Starch & Chemicals. 30 (4) Polymers derived from maleic, fumaric and itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, such as those sold under the name GANTREZ A, SP, and ES by ISP. Other polymers included in this class are copolymers of maleic, citraconic and itaconic anhydrides with an allyl or methallyl ester optionally 35 containing an acrylamido or methacrylamido group, or with an a-olefine, acrylic WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 9 or methacrylic acid ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone unit in their chain; the anhydride groups can be monoesterified or monoamidified. (5) Polyacrylamides containing carboxylate groups. Polymers comprising sulphonic groups include polymers containing vinylsulphonic, styrenesulphonic, 5 lignosulphonic or naphthalenesulphonic units. These polymers are chosen, in particular, from amongst: i) Polyvinylsulphonic acid salts having a molecular weight of 1,000 to 100,000, and also copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid or an ester thereof and also substituted 10 or unsubstituted acrylamide or methacrylamide, vinyl esters, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone. ii) Polystyrenesulphonic acid salts, such as the sodium salt sold by National Starch & Chemicals under the name Flexan 500 and 130. iii) Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of sulphonic acids derived 15 from lignin, and more particularly calcium lignosulphonates or sodium lignosulphonates, such as the product sold under the name Marasperse C-21 by American Can Co. and the C 10 to C 14 products sold by Avebene. iv) Polymers containing salified alkylnaphthalenesulphonic acid units, 20 such as the sodium salt under the name Darvan No. 1 by Van der Bilt. The anionic hair fixative polymers herein which include anionic monomers are preferably utilised in at least partially neutralised form in order to aid shampoo removability of the liquid hair cosmetic compositions. In the compositions the neutralisation of a polymer may be achieved by use of an 25 inorganic base, preferably KOH. However organic base, preferably AMP (amino methyl propanol) and mixture of inorganic and organic base may also be used to effect the desired level of neutralization in hair styling compositions. In total from about 50% to about 100%, preferably from about 70% to about 100%, most preferably from about 80% to about 100% of the acidic monomers of each 30 polymer utilized should be neutralized with base. Any conventionally used base, organic or inorganic, may be used for neutralization of acidic polymers provided they are utilized as specified herein. Hydroxides of alkali, alkaline earth and amino alcohols are suitable neutralizers. Examples of suitable organic neutralizing agents which may be included in 35 the compositions of the present invention include amines, especially amino WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 10 alcohols such as 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol (AMPD), 2-amine-2ethyl-1, 3-propanediol (AEPD), 2-amino-2-methyl-1l-propanol (AMP), 2-amino-l-butanol (AB), monethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine (DEA), triethanolamine (TEA), monoisopropanolamine (MIPA), diisopropanolamine (DIPA), triisopropanolamine 5 (TIPA), dimethylsteramine (DMS) and amino methyl propanol (AMP) and mixtures thereof. Preferred neutralizing agents for use in hair care compositions of the present invention are potassium and sodium hydroxides. Highly preferred anionic fixative polymers include commercially available 10 material such as vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl neodecanoate copolymers and vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers with the tradenames RESYN 28-2930, RESYN 28-2913, and RESYN 28-1310 supplied by National Starch & Chemicals, and acrylates copolymers and acrylates/acrylamide copolymers with tradenames LUVIMER 100P, ULTRAHOLD 8, and ULTRAHOLD STRONG supplied by BASF 15 Corporation. Cationic Fixative Polymer The cationic fixative polymers useful herein are: (1) Vinylpyrrolidone / quaternized dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers such as those sold under the tradename Gafquat 734 20 and 755N by the Gaf Corp. (2) Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups. (3) Cationic polysaccharides. (4) Cationic polymers chosen from the group comprising: i) polymers containing units of the formula: 25 -A-Z 1

-A-Z

2 - (I) wherein A denotes a radical containing two amino groups, preferably a piperazinyl radical, and Z 1 and Z 2 independently denote a divalent radical which is a straight-chain or branched-chain alkylene radical which contains up to about 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, is unsubstituted or substituted by one or more 30 hydroxyl groups and can also contain one or more oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur atoms and 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings, the oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur atoms generally being present in the form of an ether or thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, amine, alkylamine, alkenylamine, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester 35 and/or urethane group; WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 11 ii) polymers containing units of the formula: -A-Z'-A-Z'- (II) wherein A denotes a radical containing two amino groups, preferably a piperazinyl radical, and Z denotes the symbol Z 3 and Z 4 while denoting the 5 symbol Z 4 at least once; Z 3 denotes a divalent radical which is a straight-chain or branched-chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical having up to about 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, and Z 4 is a divalent radical which is a straight chain or branched-chain alkylene radical which has up to about 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, is unsubstituted and substituted by one or more hydroxyl 10 radicals and is interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and optionally contains one or more hydroxyl groups; and iii) the alkylation products, with alkyl and benzyl halides of 1 to 6 carbon 15 atoms, alkyl tosylates or mesylates, and the oxidation products, of the polymers of the formulae (I) and (II) indicated above under i) and ii). (5) Polyamino-polyamides prepared by the polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine. The acid compound can be organic dicarboxylic acids, aliphatic monocarboxylic and dicarboxylic acids containing a double bond, 20 esters of the abovementioned acids, preferably the esters with lower alkanols having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. The polyamine is a bis primary or mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene-polyamine wherein up to 40 mol% of this polyamine can be a bis-primary amine, preferably ethylenediamine, or a bis-secondary amine, preferably piperazine, and up to 20 mol% can be 25 hexamethylenediamine. (6) The above mentioned polyamino-polyamides can be alkylated and/or crosslinked. The alkylation can be carried out with glycidol, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or acrylamide. The crosslinking is carried out by means of a crosslinking agent such as: 30 i) epihalogenohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated anhydrides and bis-saturated derivatives, in proportions of 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyamino-polyamide; ii) bis-halogenohydrins, bis-azetidinium compounds, bishalogeno acyldiamines and bis-(alkyl halides); WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 12 iii) oligomers obtained by reacting a compound chosen from the group comprising bis-halogenohydrins, bis-azetidinium compounds, bis halogenoacyl-diamines, bis-(alkyl halides), epihalogenohydrins, diepoxides and bis-unsaturated derivatives, with another compound 5 which is a difunctional compound which is reactive towards the compound; and iv) the quaternisation product of a compound chosen from the compounds ii) and the oligomers iii) and containing one or more tertiary amine groups which can be totally or partially alkylated with an alkylating 10 agent preferably chosen from methyl or ethyl chlorides, bromides, iodides, sulphates, mesylates and tosylates, benzyl chloride or bromide, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycidol, the crosslinking being carried out by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mol, in particular of 0.025 to 0.2 mol and more particularly of 0.025 to 0.1 mol, of crosslinking 15 agent per amine group of the polyamino-polyamide. (7) Polyamino-polyamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of a polyalkylene-polyamine with a polycarboxylic acid, followed by alkylation by means of difunctional agents, such as the adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyl dialkylenetriamine copolymers in which the alkyl radical contains 1 to 4 carbon 20 atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Useful polymers are adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine copolymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F 4 or F 8 by SANDOZ. (8) Polymers obtained by reacting polyalkylenepolyamine containing two 25 primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, the molar ratio of the polyalkylene-polyamine to the dicarboxylic acid being from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1, and the resulting polyamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the 30 secondary amine groups of the polyamide of from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Useful polymers are those sold under the name HERCOSETT 57 by Hercules Incorporated, and that sold under the name PD 170 or DELSETTE 101 by Hercules.

WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 13 (9) Cyclic polymers generally having a molecular weight of 20,000 to 3,000,000 such as homopolymers containing, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to the formula (111) or (Ill') 5 (CH 2 )p (III) / \

(CH

2 ) t-R"C CR" -CH 2 I I Hl 2 C Cl-H 2 10 \ /

N

+

Y

/ \ R R' 15 (CH 2 )p (III') / \

(CH

2 ) t-R"C CR"-CH 2 I I

H

2 C CH 2 20 \ / N I R in which p and t are 0 or 1, and p+t=-1, R" denotes hydrogen or methyl, R and R' 25 independently of one another denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxylalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, or a lower amidoalkyl group, and R and R' can denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl, and Y is bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, 30 tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate or phosphate. Copolymers containing units of the formula III and II' may also contain units derived from acrylamide or from diacetoneacrylamide. Amongst the quaternary ammonium polymers of the type defined above, those which are preferred are the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride 35 homopolymer sold under the name MERQUAT 100 and having a molecular weight of less than 100,000, and the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer having a molecular weight of more than 500,000 and sold under the name MERQUAT 550 by CALGON Corporation. (10) Poly-(quaternary ammonium) compounds of the formula WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 14

R

1

R

3 I I - [ -N+-A--N+-B- ] n- 2X- (IV) 1 1 5

R

2

R

4 wherein R 1 ,

R

2 ,

R

3 , and R 4 are independently aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing a maximum of 20 carbon atoms, or lower hydroxyaliphatic radicals, or alternatively, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocyclic rings optionally containing a second hetero-atom other than 10 nitrogen, or alternatively R 1 ,

R

2 ,

R

3 , and R 4 represent a group CH2CHR'3R'4 wherein R '3 denoting hydrogen or lower alkyl and R '4 denoting SO, CN, CON(R'6) 2 ,

COOR

' 5 ,

COR

'5 , COOR'7D, or CONHR'7D; R '5 denoting lower alkyl,

R

'6 denoting hydrogen or lower alkyl, R ' 7 denoting alkylene and D denoting a quaternary ammonium group; A and B independently represent a polymethylene 15 group containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and can contain, inserted in the main chain one or more groups -CH2-Y-CH 2 - wherein Y denotes benzene, oxygen, sulfur, SO, SO 2 , SS,

NR

'8 , N+(R'9)2X1-, CHOH, NHCONH, CONR '8 , or COO; X 1- denoting an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, R '8 denoting hydrogen or lower alkyl and 20 R '9 denoting lower alkyl, or alternatively A and R 1 and R3 form a piperazine ring with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached. If A denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B can also denote a group: -(CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2) n - ; wherein n is selected so that the molecular weight is generally between 1,000 and 100,000; and D denotes: 25 i) a glycol radical of the formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to the fomulae: -[CH2-CH2-O-]x-CH2-CH 2 - or -[CH2-C(CH3)H-O-]y-CH2-C(CH3)H wherein x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a definite 30 and unique degree of polymerisation; ii) a bis-secondary diamine radical, such as a piperazine derivative; iii) a bis-primary diamine radical of the formula: -N-H-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or the divalent radical 35 -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; or iv) a ureylene group of the formula -N-H-CO-NH-.

WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 15 (11) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid and containing at least one unit:

R

1

R

1

R

1 I 1 1 5 -CH 2 -C- (V) CH 2 -C- (V') -CH 2 -C- (V' ') I I I C=O C=O C=O I I I o o NH 10 | | A A A N R 2

-N

+

-R

4

R

2

-N

+ - R 4 15 R 5

R

6

R

3 X- R 3

X

wherein R 1 is H or CH 3 , A is a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R 2 , R 3 and

R

4 independently denote an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, R 5 and R 6 denote H or alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and X denotes 20 methosulphate or halide, such as chloride or bromide. The comonomer or comonomers which can be used typically belong to the family comprising: acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone-acrylamide, acrylamide and methacrylamide substituted on the nitrogen by one or more lower alkyls, alkyl esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl 25 esters. Useful polymers are Quaternium 38, 37, 49 and 42 in the CTFA, acrylamide/beta-methacryloyloxyethyl-trime-thylammonium methosulphate copolymers sold under the names Teten 205,210,220 and 240 by Hercules, and aminoethylacrylate phosphate/acrylate copolymer sold under the name Catrex by 30 National Starch & Chemicals, and the crosslinked graft cationic copolymers having a molecular weight of 10,000 to 1,000,000, and preferably of 15,000 to 500,000, and resulting from the copolymerisation of: at least one cosmetic monomer, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, polyethylene glycol and a polyunsaturated crosslinking agent, such as those mentioned in the CTFA 35 dictionary under the name AMODIMETHICONE, such as the product marketed as a mixture with other ingredients under the name DOW CORNING 929 cationic emulsion.

WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/1641 1 16 (12) Other cationic polymers which can be used are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine units or vinylpyridinium units in the chain, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, poly-(quaternary ureylenes) and chitin derivatives. 5 Highly preferred cationic fixative polymers include commercially available material such as Polyquaternium 4 under the tradenames CELQUAT H100 and CELQUAT L200 supplied by National Starch & Chemicals, and Polyquaternium 11 under the tradename GAFQUAT 755N supplied by ISP. Nonionic Fixative Polymers 10 Nonionic fixative polymers useful herein are homopolymer of vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactum and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with vinylacetate such as those with tradenames LUVISKOL K grades and LUVISKOL VA grades supplied by BASF Corporation. Silicone Grafted Copolymers 15 The silicone grafted copolymers useful herein include those which have a vinyl polymeric backbone (A and B monomers), and grafted to such backbone a polydimethylsiloxane macromer (C macromer) having a weight average molecular weight of from about 1,000 to about 50,000. Preferably, these copolymers contain from and from about 50.0% to about 99.9% of the 20 combination of A and B monomers, and from about 0.1% to about 50.0% of C macromer, wherein A is a lipophilic, low polarity free radically polymerizable vinyl monomer, such as methacrylic or acrylic esters; B is a hydrophilic polar monomer which is copolymerizable with A, such as N,N-dimethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, or quaternized 25 dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate; and C is a silicone-containing macromer having a weight average molecular weight of from about 1,000 to about 50,000, based on polydimethylsiloxane. Preferred silicone grafted copolymers are those having a Tg above about -20 0 C, and a molecular weight of from about 10,000 to about 1,000,000. 30 Suitable silicone grafted copolymers herein include those listed below wherein the numbers indicate the weight ratio of monomers and macromers in the copolymer, silicone macromer S1 is a dimethylpolysiloxane having a molecular weight of about 20,000, and silicone macromer S2 is a dimethylpolysiloxane having a molecular weight of about 10,000.

WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 17 1) 20/63/17 acrylic acid/t-butyl methacrylate/silicone macromer S2, having a copolymer molecular weight about 100,000 2) 10/70/20 dimethylacrylamide/isobutyl methacrylate/silicone macromer S2, having a copolymer molecular weight about 400,000 5 3) 40/40/20 acrylic acid/methyl methacrylate/silicone macromer S1, having a copolymer molecular weight about 400,000 4) 10/70/20 acrylic acid/t-butyl methacrylate/silicone macromer S1, having a copolymer molecular weight about 300,000 5) 25/65/10 acrylic acid/isopropyl methacrylate/silicone macromer S2, having 10 a copolymer molecular weight about 200,000 6) 60/25/15 N,N'-dimethylacrylamide/methoxyethyl methacrylate/silicone macromer S1, having a copolymer molecular weight about 200,000 7) 12/64/4/20 N,N'-dimethylacrylamide/isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl methacrylate/silicone macromer S1, having a copolymer molecular weight 15 about 300,000 8) 30/40/10/20 N,N'-dimethylacrylamide/isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl methacrylate/silicone macromer S1, having a copolymer molecular weight about 300,000 9) 80/20 t-butylacrylate/silicone macromer S2, having a copolymer molecular 20 weight about 150,000 AQUEOUS CARRIER The mousse composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous carrier. The level and species of the carrier are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and desired characteristic of the product. 25 The aqueous carrier useful in the present invention include water, and water solutions of volatile solvents. Preferably, volatile solvents are included at a level of no more than about 30%, more preferably no more than about 20%, still preferably no more than about 15% by weight of the composition. The water useful herein include deionized water and water from natural 30 sources containing mineral cations. Deionized water is preferred. Volatile solvents useful herein include lower alkyl alcohols having from 1 to 3 carbons, and hydrocarbons having from about 5 to about 8 carbons. The preferred volatile solvents are, ethanol, isopropanol, pentane, hexane, and heptane.

WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 18 Compositions herein are substantially free of pressurized propellants. Propellants include fluorohydrocarbons such as difluoroethane 152a (supplied by DuPont), dimethylether, and hydrocarbons such as propane, isobutane, n butane, mixtures of hydrocarbons such as LPG (liquefied petroleum gas), carbon 5 dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen. Compositions herein need not be packaged in costly pressure resistant packages. The compositions herein can be contained in packages which have a device which can mix the composition and air to provide a foam. Suitable packages are those known to the artisan as pump foam dispensers or pump foamers which are equipped with a foam dispensing nozzle. 10 Suitable pump foam dispensers are those known in Japanese Laid-open Utiliy Model No. H3-7963, United State Patent 5,364,031, 4,932,567, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Suitable commercially available pump foamer dispensers are those available from Daiwa Can Co., Ltd. and Yoshino Kogyo Co. Ltd. 15 EMULSIFYING SURFACTANT The styling composition of the present invention may include an emulsifying surfactant to disperse the water insoluble components in the carrier. Water insoluble components may include hydrophobic fixative polymers mentioned above, and hydrophobic thickening polymers, high melting point 20 conditioning agents, and oily conditioning agents mentioned below. Preferably, however, emulsifying surfactants are not included. The level and species of the emulsifying surfactant are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and desired characteristic of the product. Emulsifying surfactants are selected from the group consisting of 25 nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. CONDITIONING AGENTS Compositions herein may include a conditioning agent. Conditioning agents useful herein include high melting point compounds, oily compounds, 30 silicone compounds, non-volatile solvents, and mixtures thereof. High Melting Point Compound The compositions may comprise a high melting point compound having a melting point of at least about 25 0 C selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, 35 hydrocarbons, steroids, and mixtures thereof. Without being bound by theory, it WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 19 is believed that these high melting point compounds cover the hair surface and reduce friction, thereby resulting in providing smooth feel on the hair and ease of combing. It is understood by the artisan that the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification can in some instances fall into more than one 5 classification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Further, it is understood by the artisan that, depending on the number and position of double bonds, and length and position of the branches, 10 certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than about 250C. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section. Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, 15 both of which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety. The fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols include, cetyl alcohol, stearyl 20 alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Also 25 included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meet the requirements herein. Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof. The fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives useful herein 30 include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substitued fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; the ceteth series of 35 compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 20 of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties 5 present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing predominantly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; C 1

-C

3 0 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth, and ceteareth compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; 10 ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethyleneglycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol monostearate, propyleneglycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan 15 stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, and mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbons useful herein include compounds having at least about 20 carbons. Steroids useful herein include compounds such as cholesterol. 20 High melting point compounds of a single compound of high purity are preferred. Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the group of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are highly preferred. By "pure" herein, what is meant is that the compound has a purity of at least about 90%, preferably at least about 95%. These single compounds of high purity 25 provide good rinsability from the hair when the consumer rinses off the composition. Commercially available high melting point compounds useful herein include: cetyl alchol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having tradenames KONOL series available from New Japan Chemical (Osaka, Japan), and NAA 30 series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcohol having tradename 1-DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids having tradenames NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago Illinois, USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin Ohio, USA), and DERMA available from Vevy (Genova, Italy); and cholesterol having tradename NIKKOL 35 AGUASOME LA available from Nikko.

WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 21 Oily Compound The compositions comprise an oily compound having a melting point of not more than about 25 0 C selected from the group consisting of a first oily compound, a second oily compound, and mixtures thereof. The oily compounds 5 useful herein may be volatile or nonvolatile. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, the oily compounds may penetrate the hair to modify the hydroxy bonds of the hair, thereby resulting in providing softness and flexibility to the hair. The oily compound may comprise either the first oily compound or the second oily compound as described herein. Preferably, a mixture of the first oily 10 compound and the second oily compound is used. The oily compounds of this section are to be distinguished from the high melting point compounds described above. Nonlimiting examples of the oily compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, both of which are incorporated by 15 reference herein in their entirety. First Oily Compound The fatty alcohols useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols 20 can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated alcohols. Nonlimiting examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitoleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alchol, undecanol, octyl dodecanol, octyl decanol, octyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, decyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol. 25 The fatty acids useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic 30 acid, ethyl linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and ricinolic acid. The fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives are defined herein to include, for example, esters of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol 35 derivatives, include, for example, methyl linoleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 22 linoleate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, ethyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, oleyl oleate, decyl oleate, butyl oleate, methyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl isostearate, octyldodecyl isopalmitate, octyl isopelargonate, octyl pelargonate, hexyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl isononanoate, 5 Oleth-2, pentaerythritol tetraoleate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioleate, and trimethylolpropane triisostearate. Commercially available first oily compounds useful herein include: oleyl alcohol with tradename UNJECOL 90BHR available from New Japan Chemical, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate and trimethylolpropane triisostearate with 10 tradenames KAKPTI and KAKTTI available from Kokyu Alcohol (Chiba, Japan), pentaerythritol tetraoleate having the same tradename as the compound name available from New Japan Chemical, trimethylolpropane trioleate with a tradename ENUJERUBU series available from New Japan Chemical, various liquid esters with tradenames SCHERCEMOL series available from Scher, and 15 hexyl isostearate with a tradename HIS and isopropryl isostearate having a tradename ZPIS available from Kokyu Alcohol. Second Oily Compound The second oily compounds useful herein include straight chain, cyclic, and branched chain hydrocarbons which can be either saturated or unsaturated, 20 so long as they have a melting point of not more than about 25 0 C. These hydrocarbons have from about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms. Also encompassed herein are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as polymers of C 2

-

6 alkenyl monomers. These polymers can 25 be straight or branched chain polymers. The straight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length, having a total number of carbon atoms as described above. The branched chain polymers can have substantially higher chain lengths. The number average molecular weight of such materials can vary widely, but will typically be up to about 500, preferably from about 200 to about 30 400, and more preferably from about 300 to about 350. Also useful herein are the various grades of mineral oils. Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon materials include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, 35 polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof. Preferred for use herein are WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 23 hydrocarbons selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, isododecane, isohexadecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof. Commercially available second oily compounds useful herein include isododecane, isohexadeance, and isoeicosene with tradenames PERMETHYL 5 99A, PERMETHYL 101A, and PERMETHYL 1082, available from Presperse (South Plainfield New Jersey, USA), a copolymer of isobutene and normal butene with tradenames INDOPOL H-100 available from Amoco Chemicals (Chicago Illinois, USA), mineral oil with tradename BENOL available from Witco, isoparaffin with tradename ISOPAR from Exxon Chemical Co. (Houston Texas, 10 USA), a-olefin oligomer with tradename PURESYN 6 from Mobil Chemical Co., and trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate with tradename MOBIL ESTER P43 from Mobil Chemical Co. Silicone Compounds The conditioning agents useful herein include silicone compounds. The 15 silicone compounds hereof can include volatile soluble or insoluble, or nonvolatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents. By soluble what is meant is that the silicone compound is miscible with the carrier of the composition so as to form part of the same phase. By insoluble what is meant is that the silicone forms a separate, discontinuous phase from the carrier, such as in the form of an 20 emulsion or a suspension of droplets of the silicone. Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having hair conditioning properties can also be used. 25 The silicone compounds herein also include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes with the following structure (I) R R R II I 30 A - Si- 0 - [ Si - 0 ]x -Si-A (I) I I I R R R wherein R is alkyl or aryl, and x is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000. "A" 35 represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains. The alkyl or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain (R) or at the ends of the siloxane chains (A) can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at room WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 24 temperature, is dispersible, is neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise harmful when applied to the hair, is compatible with the other components of the composition, is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions, and is capable of being deposited on and conditions the hair. Suitable A groups include hydroxy, 5 methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy. The two R groups on the silicon atom may represent the same group or different groups. Preferably, the two R groups represent the same group. Suitable R groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. The preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and 10 polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred. The polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone compounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company in their ViscasilR and SF 96 series, and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series. 15 Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. Especially preferred, for enhancing the shine characteristics of hair, are 20 highly arylated silicone compounds, such as highly phenylated polyethyl silicone having refractive index of about 1.46 or higher, especially about 1.52 or higher. When these high refractive index silicone compounds are used, they should be mixed with a spreading agent, such as a surfactant or a silicone resin, as described below to decrease the surface tension and enhance the film forming 25 ability of the material. The silicone compounds that can be used include, for example, a polypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide can also be used. The ethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide level should be sufficiently low so as not to 30 interfere with the dispersibility characteristics of the silicone. These material are also known as dimethicone copolyols. Other silicone compounds include amino substituted materials. Suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include those represented by the following structure (11) WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 25

CH

3 R HO - [Si- 0 ]x - [Si - O]y - H (II) 1 1 5 CH 3

(CH

2 ) 3 1 NH I

(CH

2 ) 2 10 | NH2 wherein R is CH 3 or OH, x and y are integers which depend on the molecular weight, the average molecular weight being approximately between 5,000 and 15 10,000. This polymer is also known as "amodimethicone". Suitable amino substituted silicone fluids include those represented by the formula (111)

(R

1 )aG3-a-Si-(-OSiG2)n-(-OSiGb(R1)2-b)m-O-SiG3-a(R1)a (111) in which G is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, OH, C 1

-C

8 20 alkyl and preferably methyl; a denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably equals 0; b denotes 0 or 1 and preferably equals 1; the sum n+m is a number from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from 50 to 150, n being able to denote a number from 0 to 1,999 and preferably from 49 to 149 and m being able to denote an integer from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from 1 to 10; R 1 is a monovalent radical 25 of formula CqH2qL in which q is an integer from 2 to 8 and L is chosen from the groups

-N(R

2

)CH

2

-CH

2

-N(R

2

)

2 -N(R2)2 -N(R2)3 A 30 -N(R 2

)CH

2

-CH

2

-NR

2

H

2 A" in which R 2 is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and A- denotes a halide ion. An especially preferred amino substituted silicone corresponding to 35 formula (111) is the polymer known as "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", of formula

(IV):

WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 26 CH3 OH I I

(CH

3

)

3 Si- 0 - [Si- O]n- [Si- O]m- Si(CH3)3 (IV) 5 I I

CH

3

(CH

2 ) 3 1 NH I 10

(CH

2 ) 2

NH

2 In this formula n and m are selected depending on the exact molecular 15 weight of the compound desired. Other amino substituted silicone polymers which can be used are represented by the formula (V): R4CH2-CHOH-CH 2

-N

+ (R3) 3Q 20 R3 I

(CH

3

)

3 Si- 0 - [Si- O]r- [Si- O] s- Si(CH 3

)

3 (V) I I 25 R3 R3 where R 3 denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical such as methyl; R 4 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C 1 - C 18 alkylene radical or a C 1 - C 18 , and 30 more preferably C 1 - C8, alkyleneoxy radical; Q is a halide ion, preferably chloride; r denotes an average statistical value from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 8; s denotes an average statistical value from 20 to 200, and preferably from 20 to 50. A preferred polymer of this class is available from Union Carbide under the name "UCAR SILICONE ALE 56." 35 References disclosing suitable nonvolatile dispersed silicone compounds include U.S. Patent No. 2,826,551, to Geen; U.S. Patent No. 3,964,500, to Drakoff, issued June 22, 1976; U.S. Patent No. 4,364,837, to Pader; and British Patent No. 849,433, to Woolston, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Also incorporated herein by reference in its entirety is 40 "Silicon Compounds" distributed by Petrarch Systems, Inc., 1984. This reference WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 27 provides an extensive, though not exclusive, listing of suitable silicone compounds. Another nonvolatile dispersed silicone that can be especially useful is a silicone gum. The term "silicone gum", as used herein, means a 5 polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 250C of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 centistokes. It is recognized that the silicone gums described herein can also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds. This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials. Silicone gums are described by Petrarch, and others including U.S. Patent No. 4,152,416, to 10 Spitzer et al., issued May 1, 1979 and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press 1968. Also describing silicone gums are General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76. All of these described references are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. The "silicone gums" will typically have a mass molecular weight in 15 excess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about 1,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, poly(dimethylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly(dimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof. Also useful are silicone resins, which are highly crosslinked polymeric 20 siloxane systems. The crosslinking is introduced through the incorporation of tri functional and tetra-functional silanes with mono-functional or di-functional, or both, silanes during manufacture of the silicone resin. As is well understood in the art, the degree of crosslinking that is required in order to result in a silicone resin will vary according to the specific silane units incorporated into the silicone 25 resin. In general, silicone materials which have a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence, a sufficient level of crosslinking, such that they dry down to a rigid, or hard, film are considered to be silicone resins. The ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the level of crosslinking in a particular silicone material. Silicone materials which 30 have at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be silicone resins herein. Preferably, the ratio of oxygen:silicon atoms is at least about 1.2:1.0. Silanes used in the manufacture of silicone resins include monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, diphenyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and methylvinylchlorosilanes, and tetrachlorosilane, with the methyl substituted 35 silanes being most commonly utilized. Preferred resins are offered by General WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 28 Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267. Commercially available silicone resins will generally be supplied in a dissolved form in a low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluid. The silicone resins for use herein should be supplied and incorporated into the present compositions in such dissolved form, as will be 5 readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the silicone resins can enhance deposition of other silicone compounds on the hair and can enhance the glossiness of hair with high refractive index volumes. Other useful silicone resins are silicone resin powders such as the 10 material given the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequioxane, which is commercially available as TospearlTM from Toshiba Silicones. The method of manufacturing these silicone compounds, can be found in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pp 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1989, which is incorporated herein by 15 reference in its entirety. Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular, can conveniently be identified according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those skilled in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone is described according to the presence of various siloxane monomer units which 20 make up the silicone. Briefly, the symbol M denotes the mono-functional unit

(CH

3

)

3 SiO).

5 ; D denotes the difunctional unit (CH 3

)

2 SiO; T denotes the trifunctional unit (CH3)SiO 1 .5 ; and Q denotes the quadri- or tetra-functional unit SiO 2 . Primes of the unit symbols, e.g., M', D', T', and Q' denote substituents other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence. Typical 25 alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl, etc. The molar ratios of the various units, either in terms of subscripts to the symbols indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone, or an average thereof, or as specifically indicated ratios in combination with molecular weight, complete the description of the silicone material under the MDTQ system. 30 Higher relative molar amounts of T, Q, T' and/or Q' to D, D', M and/or or M' in a silicone resin is indicative of higher levels of crosslinking. As discussed before, however, the overall level of crosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen to silicon ratio. The silicone resins for use herein which are preferred are MQ, MT, MTQ, 35 MQ and MDTQ resins. Thus, the preferred silicone substituent is methyl.

WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 29 Especially preferred are MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is from about 0.5:1.0 to about 1.5:1.0 and the average molecular weight of the resin is from about 1000 to about 10,000. Non-volatile solvents 5 Non-volatile solvents useful herein include alkyl alcohols having more than 3 carbons, and polyhydric alcohols. The polyhydric alcohols useful herein include 1,2-propane diol or propylene glycol, 1,3-propane diol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, and 1,4 butylene glycol. 10 ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS A wide variety of other additional ingredients can be formulated into the present compositions. These include: other conditioning agents such as hydrolyzed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, Vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from 15 Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; optical brighteners such as polystyrylstilbenes, triazinstilbenes, hydroxycoumarins, aminocoumarins, triazoles, pyrazolines, oxazoles, pyrenes, porphyrins, and oxazoles; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting 20 agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, in general, such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; coloring agents, such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes; hair oxidizing (bleaching) agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, perborate and persulfate salts; hair reducing agents such as the thioglycolates; perfumes; and 25 sequestering agents, such as disodium ethylenediamine tetra-acetate. Such optional ingredients generally are used individually at levels from about 0.001% to about 10.0%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5.0% by weight of the composition. 30 EXAMPLES The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention, as many variations thereof are possible without departing from the WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 30 spirit and scope of the invention. Ingredients are identified by chemical or CTFA name, or otherwise defined below. Compositions Component Ex.1 Ex.2 Ex.3 Ex.4 Ex.5 Ex.6 Yukaformer FH*1 4.00 3.00 4.00 2.00 3.00 1.50 Amphomer SH-701* 2 1.00 1.00 - - - Ultrahold Strong* 3 - - 1.00 - - Luviskol VA 73*4 - 1.00 Silicone grafted copolymer *5 - - - - - 1.00 Aminomethyl propanol 0.50 0.50 0.15 - - Laureth-23 - 0.10 0.25 - 0.10 0.15 Laureth-7 0.20 - - 0.20 0.10 Dimethicone Copolyol SH3746* 6 - - 0.10 - DC BY22-009* 7 - 0.15 0.20 - 0.20 Propylene glycol 0.25 0.20 0.10 0.25 - 0.10 Methylparaben 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.10 0.15 dl-Panthanol - - 0.01 - - Perfume 0.20 0.10 0.20 0.20 0.10 0.20 Ethanol 10.0 - - 12.5 - 6.00 DI Water q.s. to 100% *1 Yukaformer FH: Copolymer of methoacryloyl ethyl betaine and alkyl 5 acrylates, commercially available from Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation. *2 Amphomer SH-701: Copolymer of octylacrylamide, alkyl acrylates, butylaminoethyl methacrylate, commercially available from National Starch and Chemical Company. *3 Ultrahold Strong: Copolymer of acrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, and N-t-butyl 10 acrylamide, commercially available from BASF. *4 Luviskol VA 73: Copolymer of vinylprrolidone and vinyl acetate, commercially available from BASF. *5 Silicone grafted copolymer: 25/65/10 acrylic acid/isopropyl methacrylate/silicone macromer S2, polymer molecular weight about 15 200,000 *6 Dimethicone Copolyol SH3746: Polydimethylsiloxane with polyoxyethylene side chain.

WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 31 *7 DC BY22-009: Silicone microemulsion commercially available from Dow Corning. Method of Preparation The mousse products of Examples 1 through 6 are suitably made as 5 follows: The fixative polymers are dissolved in a portion of water and ethanol. In case an anionic fixative polymer such as Ultrahold Strong is used, it is neutralized with aminomethylpropanol in a portion of water. To this is added the remaining components, and mixed until homogeneous. Finally, the concentrate thus obtained is packed into a pump foamer dispenser package available from 10 Daiwa Can Co., Ltd. Examples 1 through 6 have many advantages. For example, they are capable of generating a foam having a foam density of between 0.025mL and 0.1g/mL when passed through the pump foamer dispenser. Examples 1 through 6 further provide low viscosity, good setting power, and low stickiness. 15 It is understood that the examples and embodiments described herein are for illustrative purposes only and that various modifications or changes in light thereof will be suggested to one skilled in the art without departing from its spirit and scope.

Claims (8)

1. A non-aerosol mousse composition comprising: (a) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a primary fixative polymer selected from betainized amphoteric fixative polymers; and (b) an aqueous carrier comprising no more than about 30% of a volatile 5 solvent by weight to the composition; wherein the composition is substantially free of pressurized propellants, and is capable of generating a foam having a foam density of from about 0.025g/mL to about 0.1g/mL.

2. The non-aerosol mousse composition according to Claim 1 further comprising from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a secondary fixative polymer selected from the group consisting of non-betainized amphoteric fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative 5 polymers, silicone grafted copolymers, and mixtures thereof; wherein the total of the primary fixative polymer and the secondary fixative polymer is from about 0.2% to about 15% by weight of the composition.

3. The non-aerosol mousse composition according to Claim 2 wherein the secondary fixative polymer is a non-betainized amphoteric fixative polymer.

4. The non-aerosol mousse composition according to Claim 2 wherein the secondary fixative polymer is an anionic fixative polymer.

5. The non-aerosol mousse composition according to any of Claims 1 through 4 wherein the foam density is not more than about 0.075g/mL.

6. The non-aerosol mousse composition according to any of Claims 1 through 4 wherein the foam density is not more than about 0.065g/mL.

7. The non-aerosol mousse composition according to any of Claims 1 through 4 substantially free of an emulsifying surfactant. WO 99/13827 PCT/US97/16411 33

8. The non-aerosol mousse composition according to any of Claims 1 through 4 further comprising a conditioning agent.