WO2023208807A1 - Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbon-based compound and a monoalcohol, and processes using same - Google Patents

Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbon-based compound and a monoalcohol, and processes using same Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023208807A1
WO2023208807A1 PCT/EP2023/060581 EP2023060581W WO2023208807A1 WO 2023208807 A1 WO2023208807 A1 WO 2023208807A1 EP 2023060581 W EP2023060581 W EP 2023060581W WO 2023208807 A1 WO2023208807 A1 WO 2023208807A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
lips
compounds
polyoxyethylenated
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2023/060581
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Emilie HENIN
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR2204049A external-priority patent/FR3134976A1/en
Priority claimed from FR2204046A external-priority patent/FR3134982A1/en
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2023208807A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023208807A1/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/347—Phenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one compound of polyphenol type, at least one compound Y chosen from particular polyoxyalkylenated nonionic hydrocarbon-based compounds, and at least 25% by weight of a C2-C8 alcohol.
  • the invention also relates to processes for making up and/or caring for human keratin materials such as the skin and/or the lips, using said composition.
  • compositions which comprise a silicone resin as coating agent, for instance trimethyl siloxysilicate (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins, or which comprise silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates/polytrimethyl siloxymethacrylate copolymer - INCI name).
  • a silicone resin for instance trimethyl siloxysilicate (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins, or which comprise silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates/polytrimethyl siloxymethacrylate copolymer - INCI name).
  • the aim of the present invention is to propose compositions which afford excellent persistence of the expected cosmetic effects, notably the colour of makeup on the skin and the lips, which are resistant to mechanical friction, to meals, to water, to sweat and perspiration, to sebum, to oil, or even to cleaning products, notably makeup-removing products, such as certain micellar waters, or makeup-removing wipes, for example.
  • the aim of the present invention is to propose compositions which afford persistence of the expected cosmetic effects, notably the colour of the makeup, combined with an acceptable level of comfort.
  • composition(D) for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup composition
  • a composition comprising: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y chosen from the compounds, preferably nonionic compounds, of the following formula: R-(OP) n -(OE) m -OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 4 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH 2 CH 2 -, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 3 and 40; c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C 2 -C 8 and notably C 2 -C 5 monoalcohol,
  • composition (D) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone compounds, which are preferably nonionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated, at least one of them being chosen from the compounds, preferably nonionic compounds, of the following formula: R-(OP) n -(OE) m -OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 4 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH 2 CH 2 -, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50, preferably between 3 and 40, and c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • a subject of the invention is also a makeup and/or care process which consists in applying to the skin and/or the lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition as defined above.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup process, which consists in applying to the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips: a) at least one composition (A) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X; and b) at least one composition (B) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone compounds, which are preferably nonionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated compounds, at least one of which is chosen from the compounds of the following formula: R-(OP) n -(OE) m -OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 4 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH
  • the invention further relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting in performing the following steps: 1) A composition (A) and a composition (B) are applied to the skin and/or the lips i) simultaneously or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, irrespective of the order of application; or a composition as described previously, or a composition (D); at least the or one of the compositions applied comprising at least one dyestuff; 2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and/or lips thus treated.
  • the invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, which consists in performing the following steps: 1) A composition (M) comprising at least one dyestuff is applied to the skin and/or the lips; 2) A composition (A) and a composition (B) are applied to the skin and/or lips thus treated, i) simultaneously or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, regardless of the order of application; or a composition (D).
  • a cosmetic makeup and/or care kit comprising at least: a) a first composition (A) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X as defined previously; and b) a second composition (B) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone compounds, which are preferably nonionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated compounds, at least one of which is chosen from the compounds of the following formula: R-(OP) n -(OE) m -OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 4 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH 2 CH 2 -, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50, more particularly between 3 and 40; said
  • the skin refers to the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), of the body and of the hands.
  • compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This means that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable means compatible with the skin and/or the lips, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
  • hydrogen bonding interaction means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reagents and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reagent, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine.
  • the hydrogen bond(s) are formed between the hydroxyl function(s) (OH) of the reactive phenol group(s) of the polyphenol X and the hydroxyl group(s) of the compounds Y that are capable of reacting by hydrogen bonding with the polyphenol X.
  • room temperature means 25°C.
  • atmospheric pressure means 760 mmHg, i.e. 1,013.10 5 pascals.
  • the polyphenols X that may be used according to the present invention include in their structure at least two, preferably at least three, different phenol groups.
  • polyphenol means any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene compounds (i.e.; groups), in free or fused form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl (OH) group, preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 hydroxyl groups.
  • phenol groups refers to phenol groups that are chemically different.
  • the polyphenols X that may be used according to the invention may be synthetic or natural. They may be in isolated form or contained in a mixture, notably contained in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenol groups that are differently substituted on the aromatic ring.
  • the two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.
  • flavonoids examples include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin or naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidze
  • non-flavonoids examples include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidin; and mixtures thereof.
  • polyphenols X that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted with phenols.
  • the polyphenol will be chosen from catechin tannins such as gallotannins chosen from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescalin, castalin, casuarictin, castanopsinins, excoecarianins, grandinin, notn, roburins, pterocarinin, acutissimin, tellimagrandins, sanguiin, potentillin, pedunculagin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, repandisinic acid, ascorgeraniin, stachyurin, casuarinin, casuariin, punicacortein, coriariin, cameliatannin, isodeshydrodigalloyl, dehydrodigalloyl, hellinoyl, punicalagin and rhoipteleanins.
  • catechin tannins such as gal
  • the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract having the INCI name Green Tea Extract, notably comprising at least 45% epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of said extract, for instance the commercial product sold under the name Dermofeel Phenon 90 M-C® sold by Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name Tea Polyphenols Green Tea Extract® by Tayo Green Power.
  • the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark having the INCI name Pinus pinaster Bark/Bud Extract, notably comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract, such as the commercial product sold under the name Pycnogenol® sold by Bio prises Ariquess.
  • Tannic acid will be used more particularly as polyphenol X.
  • This compound is notably sold under the name Brewtan F by the company Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv.
  • the compound(s)s Y that are capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X are thus chosen from the compounds of the following formula: R-(OP) n -(OE) m -OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 4 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group of formula: -OCH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -; OE represents a divalent radical of formula: -OCH 2 CH 2 -, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50, preferably between 3 and 40.
  • the compounds Y, in the medium of the composition do not include an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are nonionic.
  • the composition comprises compounds Y with a molar mass of greater than 200 g/mol, or even greater than 350 g/mol.
  • the compound Y is chosen from the compounds whose INCI name is as follows: PPG-26-buteth-26, PPG-12-buteth-16, PPG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, PPG-6-decyltetradeceth-30, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least two compounds Y.
  • at least one of the compounds Y is chosen from compounds of the following formula: R-(OP) n -(OE) m -OH, detailed previously.
  • the composition may also comprise at least one compound Y that is capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated alkylglycols or glycerol, polyethylene glycols, poloxamers, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated esters, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and polysorbates, polyoxyethylenated sugar ester or ether derivatives, polyoxyethylenated (poly)amines, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the polyphenol X chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated alcohols, poly
  • Nonionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units and/or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; nonionic, polyoxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxanes bearing one or more ester functions, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units; and also mixtures thereof.
  • the compound(s) Y are chosen from the following compounds designated by their INCI name: PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate, Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax, and also mixtures thereof.
  • R representing a C8-C30 al
  • glycerols Polyoxyethylenated glycerols, in particular glycerol oxyethylenated with 26 OE (Glycereth-26).
  • Polyoxyalkylenated alkanediols such as PEG-8 Caprylyl Glycol.
  • Polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycol ethers such as PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether.
  • these compounds may be chosen, alone or as mixtures, from polyethylene glycols of the type H(O-CH 2 -CH 2 )n-OH, in particular chosen from PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-14M, PEG-20, PEG-45M, PEG-90, PEG-90M, PEG-150, PEG-180 and PEG-220, and mixtures thereof.
  • Poloxamers (INCI name) which correspond in particular to the formula below are suitable for performing the invention: HO-(CH 2 -CH 2 -O)n-(CHCH 3 -CH 2 -O) O- (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) p -H, and for example chosen from Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, and also mixtures thereof.
  • PEG-6 Isostearate PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Mereth-3 Myristate, PEG-4 Olivate, Propylene Glycol Ceteth-3 Acetate and PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, and also mixtures thereof.
  • esters are more particularly found in the form of mono-, di- or tri-glycerides, alone or as mixtures.
  • esters mention may be made of PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm/Palm Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, the mixture of Polyoxyethylenated Palm Glycerides (200 EO) and Polyoxyethylenated Coconut Kernel Glycerides (7 EO), and also mixtures thereof.
  • PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
  • Polyoxyethylenated butters in particular polyoxyethylenated shea butter.
  • Polyoxyethylenated waxes notably chosen from polyoxyethylenated ester waxes such as polyoxyethylenated (120 OE) jojoba wax (INCI name: Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters), PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyoxyethylenated ester waxes such as polyoxyethylenated (120 OE) jojoba wax (INCI name: Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters), PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, and mixtures thereof.
  • Polyoxyethylenated dihydrocholesteryl esters in particular Dihydrocholeth-30.
  • Polyoxyethylenated pentaerythritol esters in particular chosen from PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate.
  • Polyoxyethylenated glycerolated esters such as Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate.
  • esters of sorbitol or sorbitan also called sorbitan
  • C 6 -C 40 saturated or unsaturated, C 6 -C 40 and advantageously C 8 -C 30 carboxylic acid(s), comprising 2 to 50 oxyethylene units.
  • polysorbates (INCI name)
  • esters mention may be made of PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate.
  • the sugar derivatives are more particularly glucose derivatives, for instance polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses such as the compounds defined by the following INCI names: Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20. Also suitable are polyoxyethylenated sugar esters, for instance the compounds having the following INCI names: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses such as the compounds defined by the following INCI names: Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20.
  • polyoxyethylenated sugar esters for instance the compounds having the following INCI names: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Polyoxyethylenated alkylamines that are suitable for performing the invention are those more particularly of the formula R-N[(CH 2 -CH 2 -O)H] q [(CH 2 -CH 2 -O)rH] with R representing a saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based group and q or r, which may be identical or different, represent an average integer ranging from 1 to 50, and in particular PEG-2-Oleamine.
  • Polyoxyethylenated polyamines for instance PEG-15 Cocopolyamine, may also be suitable for use.
  • the compound(s) Y different from the (poly)oxyethylenated and (poly)oxypropylene alcohols previously described may be chosen from: - nonionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and/or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylene units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; polyoxyethylenated nonionic polydimethylsiloxanes bearing ester(s) functions, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units; and also mixtures thereof; - polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the type R(O-CH 2 -CH 2 )o-OH, R representing a C 8 -C 30 alkyl radical, o representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50; - esters of glycerol
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one C 2 -C 8 and more particularly C 2 -C 5 monoalcohol.
  • C 2 -C 8 and more particularly C 2 -C 5 monoalcohol.
  • the content of C 2 -C 8 monoalcohol is such that the compounds X and Y do not react together in the composition, before its application.
  • Said monoalcohol can thus be regarded as a hydrogen-bonding inhibitor.
  • the term “hydrogen-bonding inhibitor” refers to any compound which is capable of preventing hydrogen bonding interaction between the polyphenol X and the compound Y and/or which is capable of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonding.
  • the content of C 2 -C 8 and preferably C 2 -C 5 monoalcohol, and more particularly ethanol is greater than 25% by weight, preferably between 25% and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30% and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may optionally comprise water. It may be a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • a floral water such as cornflower water
  • a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • the water content is less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water content of the composition is between 0 and 5% by weight, limits inclusive, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the water content is less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition is anhydrous. It should be noted that in such a case, water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small amounts or even in trace amounts in the various products used.
  • the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, and more particularly ranges from 2 to 6.
  • composition may optionally comprise other ingredients or solvents which are soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol or dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones or C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol or dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones or C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • the composition according to the invention which is preferably liquid, may comprise an oily phase.
  • oil phase refers to a phase which is liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one fatty substance other than the compounds Y, such as oils, waxes or pasty substances and also optionally all the organic solvents and ingredients that are soluble or miscible in said phase.
  • the oil(s) may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • oil refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1,013.10 5 Pa).
  • the oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • silicon oil refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil refers to an oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. These oils are thus different from silicone oils.
  • volatile oil refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapour pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.
  • non-volatile oil refers to an oil that remains on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapour pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa.
  • the vapour pressure may be measured via the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure (standard OCDE 104).
  • the oily phase of the composition may also be in a single-phase or multi-phase form, notably in a two-phase form. It should be noted that the phases may or may not be sub-dispersed in each other.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils examples include those chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of the hydrocarbon type (i.e. apolar hydrocarbon-based oils consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) and of the ester type.
  • they may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and notably: - branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, - linear alkanes, for example C 11 -C 15 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, - branched C 8 -C 16 esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, - mixtures thereof.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillates, notably those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE10 2008 012 457 from the company Cognis.
  • volatile silicone oils mention may be made, inter alia , of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • oils examples include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), or DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning or KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu; alone or as mixtures.
  • polar hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions, and preferably hydroxyl, ester or ether.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and notably from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may notably be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil
  • Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer) or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA®; - linear fatty acid esters and polyesters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 80, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, and butyloctyl salicylate; - esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of a diol dimer and of a fatty
  • the oil may also be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • linear or branched, non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words non-volatile oils of hydrocarbon type).
  • Said linear or branched apolar oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance: - liquid paraffin, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly of C 15 -C 28 , such as the mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-C21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-C28 Alkane (INCI name), for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC, - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for instance products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers, - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes,
  • the non-volatile oil may also be chosen from phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils. More particularly, said silicone oils are free of (poly)alkoxylated groups, notably such as (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or (poly)glycerolated groups.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group.
  • the phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil is chosen from dimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicones and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the concentration of the oily phase of the composition is between 1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 1% and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the oily phase if it is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
  • the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably a volatile silicone oil.
  • the content of volatile silicone oil is less than or equal to 20%, notably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oily phase is present and comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based volatile oil, more particularly in a content of less than or equal to 20%, notably less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than 9% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight and even more precisely less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may optionally comprise at least one wax.
  • the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 40°C that may be up to 120°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measuring protocol is as follows: A sample of approximately 5 mg of wax is placed in a “hermetic aluminium capsule” crucible. The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point value of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the value of the top of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve, representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes or silicone waxes, and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
  • the waxes are chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes and polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, which are preferably esters, and also mixtures thereof.
  • apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes i.e. waxes comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure
  • polar hydrocarbon-based waxes i.e. comprising carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms
  • waxes advantageously comprising at least one alcohol, ester and/or ether group.
  • Hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, sunflower wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax, and also mixtures thereof, may notably be used as waxes.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains.
  • C 20 -C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate waxes are also suitable for use, alone or as a mixture, or a C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate.
  • Such waxes are notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.
  • alcohol waxes mention may be made of linear, saturated C 30 -C 50 alcohol mixtures such as the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
  • the content of wax(es), if the composition comprises any, ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may optionally comprise at least one pasty compound.
  • the term “pasty compound” means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and including at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • a pasty compound can exhibit a starting melting point of less than 20°C.
  • the pasty compound can have, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that described in detail above for the waxes.
  • the measuring protocol is, however, as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and it is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
  • this or these pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from:
  • mango butters such as the product sold under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; babassu butter such as the product sold under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, and also orange wax, for example the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,
  • mango butter such as the product sold under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarl
  • - partially hydrogenated plant oils for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut kernel, palm and rapeseed plant oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,
  • polyesters obtained from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched C6-C20 monocarboxylic acids notably such as the ester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and having the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2.
  • This type of compound is notably sold under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo.
  • esters of diol dimer for example of dilinoleyl alcohol
  • dilinoleic acid for example the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, of behenyl alcohol and of isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * esters of dilinoleic acid and of a mixture of phytosterols, of isostearyl alcohol, of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol and of behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilino
  • the pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from plant butters, partially hydrogenated plant oils, compounds having the INCI name Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and also mixtures thereof.
  • composition comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon-based compound
  • its/their content is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition(D) for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup composition
  • a composition comprising: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y chosen from the compounds, preferably nonionic compounds, of the following formula: R-(OP) n -(OE) m -OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 4 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH 2 CH 2 -, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 3 and 40; c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C 2 -C 8 and notably C 2 -C 5 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol.
  • composition (D) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one polyphenol X as defined previously, b) at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone compounds, which are preferably nonionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated, at least one of them being chosen from the compounds, preferably nonionic compounds, of the following formula: R-(OP) n -(OE) m -OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 4 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH 2 CH 2 -, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50, more particularly between 3 and 40, and c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (D), of at least one monoalcohol including from
  • composition (D) in this type of composition, the coating agent is in a latent state and only fully appears when in situ , i.e. once composition (D) is applied to the skin and/or the lips.
  • the conditions are such that they do not favour the interaction of the polyphenol(s) X and compound(s) Y with each other.
  • these compounds do not precipitate in the composition before its application.
  • the content of polyphenol X in composition (D) is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2% and 30% by weight, and even more particularly from 3% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).
  • the content of compounds Y in composition (D) is at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material ranges between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
  • the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol, more particularly C2-C5 monoalcohol, notably ethanol, is such that the compounds X and Y do not react in composition (D) before its application.
  • Said monoalcohol can thus be regarded as a hydrogen-bonding inhibitor.
  • the term “hydrogen-bonding inhibitor” refers to any compound which is capable of preventing hydrogen bonding interaction between the polyphenol X and the compounds Y and/or which is capable of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonding.
  • the C2-C8 monoalcohol content is between 25% and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30% and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).
  • composition (D) comprises water.
  • it may be a demineralized water, or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • composition (D) comprises a water content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the water content of composition (D) is between 0 and 5% by weight, limits included, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, and more particularly ranges from 2 to 6.
  • composition may also comprise other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents or ingredients (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • composition (D) comprises an oily phase.
  • composition (D) comprises an oily phase
  • its content is between 1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 1% and 50% by weight, even more especially between 1% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the oily phase if it is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
  • the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably a volatile silicone oil.
  • the content of volatile silicone oil is less than or equal to 20% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, more particularly in a content of less than or equal to 20% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Composition (D) is advantageously in a liquid form.
  • Composition (D) may also comprise at least one wax, a list of which has been given previously, to which reference may be made.
  • the wax content, if the composition (D) comprises any, generally ranges between 0.1% and 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • composition (D) may optionally comprise at least one pasty compound, as described previously. If composition (D) comprises any, the content of pasty compound(s) is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition (A) has a polyphenol(s) X content of at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (A).
  • the polyphenol(s) X content is between 2% and 50% by weight, preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
  • composition (A) comprises water. It may be, for example, a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water. More particularly, the water content is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (A).
  • Composition (A) may also comprise at least one C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol. Examples that may be mentioned include ethanol, isopropanol and butanol, preferably ethanol and isopropanol and even more preferentially ethanol.
  • the content of C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol, more particularly ethanol is greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (A).
  • composition (A) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, more particularly ranging from 2 to 6.
  • Composition (A) may also comprise other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents or ingredients (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • composition (A) is anhydrous.
  • anhydrous composition refers to any composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, or even less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is free of water.
  • water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small amounts or even in trace amounts in the various products used.
  • composition (A) comprises an oily phase.
  • oil phase refers to a phase which is liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one fatty substance other than the compounds Y, such as oils, waxes or pasty substances and also optionally all the organic solvents and ingredients that are soluble or miscible in said phase.
  • the oil(s) may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition (A) is anhydrous
  • the oily phase preferably comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, more preferentially chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin such as isodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, and more particularly isododecane.
  • composition may optionally comprise at least one wax.
  • the waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes or silicone waxes, and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
  • the waxes are chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes and polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, which are preferably esters, and also mixtures thereof. Again, the detailed list of waxes remains valid and can be referred to.
  • Composition (A) may comprise at least one pasty compound, a list of which has been given previously and to which reference may be made.
  • the pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from plant butters, partially hydrogenated plant oils, compounds having the INCI name Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and also mixtures thereof.
  • composition (A) When composition (A) is anhydrous, the concentration of the oily phase of said composition is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, and more particularly ranges from 20% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition relative to the total weight of composition (A).
  • the content of compounds Y is at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 75% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
  • composition (B) comprising the compound(s) Y comprises at least water. It may be, for example, a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • the amount of water is preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).
  • Composition (B) may also comprise at least one C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol.
  • C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol By way of example, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol and butanol, preferably ethanol and isopropanol, preferably ethanol.
  • the content of C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol, more particularly ethanol is greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (B).
  • composition (B) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, more particularly ranging from 2 to 6.
  • Composition (B) may also comprise other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents or ingredients (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
  • polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol
  • C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol.
  • composition (B) is anhydrous.
  • composition (B) may comprise at least one oily phase as defined previously.
  • composition (B) is anhydrous
  • the oily phase preferably comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, more preferentially chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isodecane, isohexadecane and isododecane, and more particularly isododecane.
  • C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin also known as isoparaffins
  • composition (B) is anhydrous
  • the oily phase concentration of the composition of the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, more particularly ranging from 20% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
  • compositions (A) and (B) so that they are compatible and can be mixed and the amounts for obtaining, in the mixture obtained, the formation of a coating agent by hydrogen bonding interaction of the polyphenol X with the compound(s) Y as defined.
  • the present invention also relates to a composition (C) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coating agent previously formed by interaction by hydrogen bonding of at least one polyphenol X with at least two compounds Y, as defined previously.
  • the coating agent present in the compositions of the invention is obtained by reacting by hydrogen bonding interaction, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated compounds; both previously described.
  • the content of preformed coating agent ranges from 1% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C).
  • the reaction medium may be aqueous, hydrophilic or anhydrous.
  • the solvent in which the coating agent is prepared is readily removable, in particular by evaporation.
  • the coating agent can advantageously be synthesized in water or in a volatile oil such as those indicated previously, preferably isododecane.
  • the polyphenol X and the compounds Y are preferably introduced into the reaction medium with a ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material, ranging between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
  • the order of introduction is unimportant.
  • the contact time may be very short or the mixture may be left to incubate with stirring (for a few hours).
  • the precipitate obtained corresponding to the coating agent is recovered either by filtration of the solvent or by centrifugation or else by evaporating off the solvent.
  • the precipitate is then washed several times so as to remove the initial reagents that have not been engaged in forming the precipitate.
  • the washing solvent is more particularly chosen from solvents for the polyphenol X and/or the associated compounds Y. Ideally, the washing solvent is water.
  • the number of washes may be determined by assaying the polyphenol X recovered in the washing waters. When the content is low, it may be considered that the excess reagents has been removed.
  • the amount of solvent present in the precipitate is more particularly less than 40% by weight relative to the weight of precipitate, or even less than 35% by weight relative to the weight of the precipitate.
  • the precipitate may be dried, notably in the open air, in a heated atmosphere, under vacuum or freeze-dried.
  • composition (C) comprises at least water. It may notably be a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • the amount of water is preferably greater than 30% by weight, or even greater than 40% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 30% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).
  • the composition comprises at least one dyestuff, which will be described later.
  • composition (C) may comprise at least one oily phase as defined previously.
  • composition (C) is anhydrous.
  • composition (C) may be in a multiphase form, for example in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (continuous aqueous phase in which is dispersed an oily phase in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (continuous oily phase in which is dispersed an aqueous phase in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture).
  • oil-in-water emulsion continuous aqueous phase in which is dispersed an oily phase in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture
  • water-in-oil emulsion continuous oily phase in which is dispersed an aqueous phase in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture
  • composition (C) contains water
  • the pH of the aqueous phase is preferably less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, more particularly ranging from 2 to 6.
  • composition (C) comprises an oily phase
  • said phase comprises at least one oil, a list of which has been indicated above.
  • composition (C) comprises an oily phase
  • the oily phase concentration is preferably greater than 10% by weight, or even greater than 20% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 30% to 75%, relative to the total weight of composition (C).
  • composition (C) comprises an oily phase, it comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil. It preferably does not contain any volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.
  • composition (C) when composition (C) is an emulsion, it may include one or more emulsifying surfactants.
  • the term “emulsifying surfactant” refers to an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one which contains two parts of different polarity. Generally, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water).
  • the emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) value, the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.
  • HLB Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance
  • the term “HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).
  • the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions.
  • the HLB is greater than 8 for the preparation of O/W emulsions.
  • the HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.
  • composition (C) when composition (C) is anhydrous, the oily phase of composition (C) comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and notably C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and particularly isododecane.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oil preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and notably C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and particularly isododecane.
  • the amount of volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) may preferably range from 20% to 80% by weight and even more preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition (C).
  • a thickening system polymers, waxes or pasty substances
  • a suspension agent or an emulsifying system in particular of lamellar phase type may be added.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff, in particular chosen from synthetic and natural dyestuffs or dyestuffs of natural origin.
  • the dyestuff may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • pigments means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit.
  • the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.
  • mineral pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
  • mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder and copper powder.
  • the following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta 2 O 5 , Ti 3 O 5 , Ti 2 O 3 , TiO, ZrO 2 as a mixture with TiO 2 , ZrO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , CeO 2 , ZnS.
  • the size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ m and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ m and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 ⁇ m to 1000 ⁇ m.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an “effective” particle diameter to be determined. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles , Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • D[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.
  • the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.
  • iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • nacres examples include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • the nacres can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
  • stabilized means lacking the effect of variability of the colour with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change.
  • this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, notably interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
  • This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show predominant affinity for an oily phase, which can then convey them.
  • the coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
  • the “coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed on, adsorbed on or grafted to said pigment.
  • the surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to a person skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
  • the surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
  • the surface treatment consists in coating the pigments.
  • the coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
  • the coating may be produced, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
  • the coating may be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is notably described in patent US 4 578 266.
  • the chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
  • the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating
  • the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.
  • the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • silicone surface agents fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
  • the dyestuff is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
  • organic pigment refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
  • the organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.
  • the organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17
  • the pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
  • the pigment may also be a lake.
  • the term “lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • the mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
  • D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
  • D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61
  • the pigment(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention, composition (A), (B), (C) and/or (D), in contents of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly of at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly of at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the dyestuff content is less than 50% by weight, more particularly between 0.05% and 30% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned.
  • the dyestuff is a water-soluble dye or a liposoluble dye.
  • water-soluble dyestuff means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour.
  • liposoluble dyestuff means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with the oily phase, and which is capable of imparting colour.
  • water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5 and FDC Blue 1.
  • FDC Red 4 DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33
  • DC Orange 4 DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5 and FDC Blue 1.
  • anthocyanins Among the natural water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of anthocyanins.
  • liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made, for instance, of the liposoluble dyes DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red and Sudan brown.
  • carotenes for instance ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, quinazine green SS) and chlorophylls.
  • xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin
  • the water-soluble or liposoluble dye(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention, composition (A), (B), (C) and/or (D), in contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.02% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned.
  • compositions (A), (B), (C) and/or (D) may contain additives that are common in cosmetics. Mention may notably be made of antioxidants, preserving agents, neutralizers, gelling agents or thickeners, surfactants, cosmetic active agents, for instance emollients, moisturizers or vitamins, and mixtures thereof.
  • the antioxidants are used to prevent the oxidation of the polyphenol X. They may be chosen from ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, erythorbic acid, citric acid, sulfites and metabisulfite, and reducing agents of thiol type, in particular cysteine. Mention may also be made of carotenes and lycopenes, which also act as liposoluble dyes.
  • compositions (A), (B), (C) and/or (D) may be present in the composition according to the invention, compositions (A), (B), (C) and/or (D), in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15.0% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention (A), (B), (C) and/or (D), are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
  • compositions according to the invention may be manufactured via the known processes, generally used in the cosmetic field.
  • compositions according to the invention, (A), (B), (C) and/or (D), used according to the invention may be care, makeup or hybrid products (with a care and makeup valency) for keratin materials such as the skin, the eye contour and the lips.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting in applying successively, regardless of the order of application to the skin and/or the lips: a) at least one composition (A) as defined previously; and b) at least one composition (B) as defined previously; composition (A) and/or composition (B) advantageously containing at least one dyestuff.
  • the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compound(s) Y, expressed as active material ranges between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
  • said makeup composition (A) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (B) is aqueous.
  • said makeup composition (A) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (B) is anhydrous.
  • said makeup composition (A) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (B) is aqueous.
  • said makeup composition (A) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (B) is anhydrous.
  • said makeup composition (B) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (A) is aqueous.
  • said makeup composition (B) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (A) is anhydrous.
  • said makeup composition (B) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (A) is aqueous.
  • said makeup composition (B) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (A) is anhydrous.
  • said pretreatment composition (A) is aqueous and the makeup composition (B) is aqueous.
  • said pretreatment composition (A) is aqueous and the makeup composition (B) is anhydrous.
  • said pretreatment composition (A) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (B) is aqueous.
  • said pretreatment composition (A) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (B) is anhydrous.
  • a first layer (base coat) of pre-treatment with a composition (B) as defined previously a composition (B) as defined previously, and then b) onto the skin and/or lips thus treated, a second makeup layer (top coat) with a composition (A) as defined previously comprising at least one dyestuff.
  • said pretreatment composition (B) is aqueous and the makeup composition (A) is aqueous.
  • said pretreatment composition (B) is aqueous and the makeup composition (A) is anhydrous.
  • said pretreatment composition (B) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (A) is aqueous.
  • said pretreatment composition (B) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (A) is anhydrous.
  • variants 1 to 4 defined previously, use will preferably be made of variants 1 and 2, in which a first coat of makeup is applied with composition (A) or composition (B) containing said dyestuff(s).
  • composition (A) and/or the makeup composition (B) comprises an anhydrous support comprising an oily phase.
  • variants 1 to 4 defined previously, use will more particularly be made of variants 1 and 4 in which the dyestuffs are in composition (B) as defined previously.
  • the following are applied successively to the skin and/or the lips: a) a first coat of makeup (base coat) with a preferably anhydrous composition (B) as defined previously comprising at least one dyestuff, preferably a pigment, and then b) onto the skin and/or lips thus coloured, a second post-treatment layer (top coat) with an aqueous composition (A) as defined previously.
  • composition (C) or (D) Using the composition according to the invention, composition (C) or (D)
  • Another cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, according to the invention consists in applying to the skin and/or the lips at least one composition according to the invention, or at least one composition (C), or at least one composition (D), as defined previously.
  • composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one dyestuff.
  • compositions (A) and (B) are identical with compositions (A) and (B)
  • the present invention relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, consisting in successively applying: (a) a layer formed by application to the skin and/or lips, i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, irrespective of the order: a)1) at least one composition (A) as defined previously; and a)2) at least one composition (B) as defined previously; b) onto the skin and/or lips thus treated, a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil.
  • said process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips consists in successively applying: a) a first layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil and at least one dyestuff; and b) onto the first coloured layer, a second layer formed by application to the skin and/or lips, i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, irrespective of the order: b)1) at least one composition (A) as defined previously; and b)2) at least one composition (B) as defined previously.
  • M at least one composition
  • B at least one composition
  • compositions (A) and (B) on the one hand and of the composition (M) on the other hand irrespective of the order of application, is advantageously performed without mixing. More particularly, it is preferable for the composition of the second step to be applied once the composition of the first step has at least partially dried. As a guide, the second step is performed a few minutes after the first.
  • composition (C) or (D) With the composition according to the invention, composition (C) or (D):
  • the process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips consists in performing the following successive steps: 1) A composition as defined previously is applied to the skin and/or the lips, said composition preferably comprising at least one dyestuff; 2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and/or lips thus treated.
  • the second composition is applied to the first composition, without mixing.
  • the second composition is applied after the composition applied in the first step has at least partially dried.
  • the second composition is applied a few minutes after the first.
  • compositions which do not comprise dyestuff(s) When the process is performed in the presence of compositions which do not comprise dyestuff(s), it is referred to as a cosmetic care process.
  • the process is performed in the presence of at least one dyestuff, it is then referred to as a cosmetic makeup process, or possibly a hybrid process (i.e. a care and makeup process).
  • the process according to the invention is performed with a composition according to the invention comprising at least one dyestuff.
  • Another process for making up the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, consists in successively applying: a) a layer consisting of at least one composition (C) or a composition (D) as defined previously; the composition (C) or composition (D) applied comprising at least one dyestuff, and b) a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil.
  • Another process for making up the skin and/or the lips according to the invention consists in successively applying: a) a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil and at least one dyestuff; and b) onto the first coloured layer, a second layer consisting of at least one composition (C) or a composition (D) as defined previously.
  • M at least one composition
  • C at least one oil and at least one dyestuff
  • compositions (C) or (D) on the one hand and the composition (M) on the other hand irrespective of the order of application, is advantageously performed without mixing. More particularly, it is preferable for the composition of the second step to be applied once the composition of the first step has at least partially dried. As a guide, the second step is performed a few minutes after the first.
  • Composition (M) may comprise at least one oil. Reference may be made to the description of the oils given previously.
  • Composition (M) may also optionally comprise at least one dyestuff chosen from those defined previously.
  • Composition (M) may advantageously comprise at least one silicone or non-silicone film-forming polymer, or a mixture.
  • silicone film-forming polymers examples include silicone resins, such as the resins whose INCI names are as follows: trimethyl siloxysilicate, phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and also mixtures thereof. Also suitable for use are polymers having the following INCI names: acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, acrylates/dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
  • the film-forming polymer may also be chosen from ethylcellulose, or ethylenic block copolymers, for instance acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name).
  • composition (M) comprises any, the content of film-forming polymer(s) advantageously ranges between 0.1% and 50% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (M).
  • Composition (M) may also contain one or more ingredients commonly used in this type of product, such as pasty compounds, in particular hydrocarbon-based compounds, for instance compounds such as plant butters (e.g. shea butter), ester compounds derived from dimerdiol dimerdilinoleate (e.g.
  • waxes notably hydrocarbon-based waxes, polar waxes (for example of ester type) or apolar waxes (for example polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, etc.); organic solvents; thickeners; colourless or white, lamellar or spherical fillers, or fillers in the form of fibres; cosmetic active ingredients such as vitamins, solar UV-screening agents, moisturizers, antioxidants.
  • Composition (M) may or may not comprise water.
  • Composition (M) may be a product, notably for making up and/or caring for the skin, the face, the cheeks or the eye contour. If these compositions (M) are intended for makeup, then they contain at least one dyestuff as defined previously.
  • compositions (M) for the skin are preferably gels, creams, milks or lotions. They may be aqueous dispersions, oily anhydrous compositions or multi-phase compositions such as oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, or two-phase or three-phase compositions.
  • compositions (M) for the skin may also be in hot-cast solid form.
  • compositions (M) for the skin may also be eyeshadows or face powders, and are more particularly in the form of loose or compact powder.
  • compact powder means a mass of product whose cohesion is at least partly provided by compacting during the manufacture.
  • loose powder means a mass of product that is capable of collapsing under its own weight; such a mass being formed by particles that are predominantly isolated and mobile relative to each other.
  • the makeup compositions (M) in the form of loose or compact powder which are preferably anhydrous, generally comprise at least one powder phase, in a content notably greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising at least one filler which may represent a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Composition (M) may be a product intended to be applied to the lips, notably a lipstick, a lip gloss or a lip balm.
  • the lip compositions (M) may be in solid form such as a wand or products in a dish or alternatively in liquid form.
  • They may be anhydrous or aqueous, notably water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions.
  • Composition (M) may also be an eyeliner which is preferably an aqueous composition with at least one film-forming polymer, notably in the form of a particle dispersion (latex).
  • compositions (A), (B), (C), (D) and/or (M) according to the invention may each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment that comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing member.
  • the container may be in any suitable form. It may notably be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar or a case.
  • the closing member may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid or a cover, notably of the type including a body fixed to the container and a cap articulated on the body. It may also be in the form of a member for selectively closing the container, notably a pump, a valve or a flap valve.
  • the container may be associated with an applicator, for example in the form of a brush (as described, for example, in patent FR 2 722 380), in the form of a deformable or undeformable element, made of foam or elastomer, and flocked or not flocked.
  • the applicator may also be free (sponge) or securely fastened to a rod borne by the closing member, as described, for example, in patent US 5 492 426.
  • the applicator may be securely fastened to the container, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959.
  • the product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
  • the closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing.
  • the coupling between the closing member and the container occurs other than by screwing, notably via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by gripping.
  • click-fastening in particular means any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, notably of the closing member, followed by return to the elastically unconstrained position of said portion after the bead or cord has been crossed.
  • the container may be at least partially made of thermoplastic material.
  • thermoplastic materials that may be mentioned include polypropylene and polyethylene.
  • the container may have rigid or deformable walls, notably in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.
  • the container may comprise means intended to bring about or facilitate the dispensing of the composition.
  • the container may have deformable walls so as to make the composition exit in response to excess pressure inside the container, which excess pressure is brought about by the elastic (or non-elastic) squeezing of the walls of the container.
  • the container may be equipped with a drainer positioned in the vicinity of the opening of the container.
  • a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be securely fastened.
  • Such a drainer is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
  • the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.
  • compositions (D) were prepared:
  • compositions are in the form of coloured liquids. If phase separation is observed, simply shake the container to rehomogenize the composition before application.
  • compositions are easily applied to the lips, using a dipping applicator, for example, as a homogeneous and fine, relatively comfortable deposit. The deposit does not run.
  • composition was evaluated in a test of resistance to mechanical stress and chemical attack: dry rubbing, water and oil.
  • composition (D) over the entire surface three times in a row to obtain a homogeneous deposit. Repeat the operation on two other strips. Allow the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes. If a composition (M) is used, then apply it on top of composition (D), over the entire surface three times in a row to obtain a homogeneous deposit. Do the same on the other two strips. Allow the deposit to dry again on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes. If necessary, take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before stressing.
  • the deposit comprises at least one dyestuff with a sufficiently intense colour (for example a red dyestuff, notably such as Red 7).
  • compositions are compared, they have the same colour (same amount and same dyestuff).
  • Example 2 Composition (A) and composition (B)
  • compositions (A) were prepared:
  • compositions (B) were prepared:
  • composition (A) (or a composition (B)) is applied so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit on the lips.
  • composition (B) (or a composition (A)) is applied over it, without mixing, as a top coat according to the combinations below:
  • the conditions of the performance evaluation test are the same as those detailed for Example 1, except that in the first step a composition (A) (or, respectively, a composition (B)) is applied; then in the second step a composition (B) (or, respectively, a composition (A)) is applied.
  • the grading is the same as detailed in Example 1.
  • compositions (M) were prepared:
  • Isododecane Ingredients (INCI name) Amount % by weight Isododecane qs 100 Trimethyl siloxysilicate (SR 1000 - Momentive Performance Materials) 17.5 Lauroyllysine 1.5 Disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V® - Elementis) 26 Isododecane 20 Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer (Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant – Dow Corning) 11 C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax – Dow Corning) 0.5
  • Preparation process Under Rayneri stirring, mix the compounds of phase A at 95°C. Leave stirring until the mixture is thoroughly homogeneous. Add phase B with stirring. Once the mixture is homogenized, allow to cool to room temperature. Package.
  • Composition (D2) of Example 1 is applied first so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit on the support (base coat).
  • composition (M1) or (M2) (top coat) is applied over it without mixing, according to the following combinations:
  • Test Test 3 Base coat (D2) (D2) Top coat (M1) (M2)
  • test 1 The deposit obtained in test 1 is very fine, homogeneous and comfortable, without migration or transfer (for example, notably, kiss test on a cup).
  • test 2 The deposit obtained in test 2 remains relatively fine, comfortable and non-tacky, without migration or transfer.
  • the conditions of the performance evaluation test are the same as those detailed for Example 1, as is the grading.
  • compositions were prepared:
  • Invention 3 Comparative 3 Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 15 15 PPG-5-Ceteth-20 (Procetyl AWS-LQ-(AP) – Croda) 15 - Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 OR – Sensient) 10 10 Ethanol qs 100 qs 100
  • compositions are applied to the lips as a fine and homogeneous, sufficiently comfortable deposit, which does not migrate, without colour transfer (for example kiss test on a cup).
  • composition according to the invention gives a more resistant deposit than the comparative composition (evaluation according to the protocol detailed in Example 1).
  • composition (M3) was prepared:
  • Preparation process Under Rayneri stirring, mix the compounds of phase A at 95°C. Leave stirring until the mixture is thoroughly homogeneous. Add phase B with stirring. Once the mixture is homogenized, allow to cool to room temperature. Package.
  • the first composition (Invention 3 described in Example 3) is applied to the lips using a dipping applicator so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit.
  • the second composition (M3) is applied.
  • a homogeneous, comfortable deposit is obtained which does not migrate or transfer (for example kiss test, notably on a cup).
  • the deposit is evaluated according to the protocol detailed in Example 1.
  • Isododecane qs 100 Trimethyl siloxysilicate (SR 1000 - Momentive Performance Materials) 17.5 Lauroyllysine 1.5 Disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V® - Elementis) 26 Isododecane 20 Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer (Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant – Dow Corning) 11 C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax – Dow Corning) 0.5
  • the “Invention 4 ” composition is applied to the lips using a dipping applicator, so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit (base coat).
  • the second composition (M4) is applied.
  • a homogeneous, comfortable deposit is obtained, which does not migrate or transfer (kiss test).
  • the deposit is evaluated according to the protocol detailed in Example 1.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y chosen from the compounds, preferably nonionic compounds, having the formula R-(OP)n-(OE)m-OH, with R representing a C4-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP representing -OCH(CH3)-CH2-; OE representing -OCH2CH2-, n and m representing, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50; c) at least 25% by weight of at least one C2-C8 monoalkanol. The invention also relates to processes for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, in particular the lips, using said composition.

Description

Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbon-based compound and a monoalcohol, and processes using same
The present invention relates to a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one compound of polyphenol type, at least one compound Y chosen from particular polyoxyalkylenated nonionic hydrocarbon-based compounds, and at least 25% by weight of a C2-C8 alcohol. The invention also relates to processes for making up and/or caring for human keratin materials such as the skin and/or the lips, using said composition.
At the present time on the market of care and/or makeup for the skin and/or the lips, many products claim persistence throughout the day, and resistance to external factors such as water, sebum, food, mechanical friction, etc. These “long-lasting” products for the lips, or for the face, which can be used at home, are mainly based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents, mostly volatile oils. For example, compositions are known which comprise a silicone resin as coating agent, for instance trimethyl siloxysilicate (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins, or which comprise silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates/polytrimethyl siloxymethacrylate copolymer - INCI name).
In recent years, consumers have become increasingly demanding regarding the composition of their cosmetic products and are in particular seeking to use products with an ever-increasing content of natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin, ingredients whose environmental impact is minimized and/or ingredients that are compatible with a wide range of packaging.
The difficulty remains, however, in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed regarding the products they already use.
The aim of the present invention is to propose compositions which afford excellent persistence of the expected cosmetic effects, notably the colour of makeup on the skin and the lips, which are resistant to mechanical friction, to meals, to water, to sweat and perspiration, to sebum, to oil, or even to cleaning products, notably makeup-removing products, such as certain micellar waters, or makeup-removing wipes, for example.
In addition, the aim of the present invention is to propose compositions which afford persistence of the expected cosmetic effects, notably the colour of the makeup, combined with an acceptable level of comfort.
These and other objects are achieved by the present invention, the subject of which is a composition (composition(D)) for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup composition, comprising:
a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups;
b) at least one compound Y chosen from the compounds, preferably nonionic compounds, of the following formula: R-(OP)n-(OE)m-OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH3)-CH2-; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH2CH2-, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 3 and 40;
c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 and notably C2-C5 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol.
Another subject of the present invention relates to a composition (called composition (D)) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium:
a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups;
b) at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone compounds, which are preferably nonionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated, at least one of them being chosen from the compounds, preferably nonionic compounds, of the following formula: R-(OP)n-(OE)m-OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH3)-CH2-; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH2CH2-, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50, preferably between 3 and 40, and
c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one monoalcohol including from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably including 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and more particularly ethanol or isopropanol.
A subject of the invention is also a makeup and/or care process which consists in applying to the skin and/or the lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition as defined above.
The present invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup process, which consists in applying to the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips:
a) at least one composition (A) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X; and
b) at least one composition (B) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone compounds, which are preferably nonionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated compounds, at least one of which is chosen from the compounds of the following formula: R-(OP)n-(OE)m-OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH3)-CH2-; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH2CH2-, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50, preferably 3 and 40;
said compositions (A) and (B) being applied to the skin and/or the lips,
i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use; or iii) successively, regardless of the order of application.
The invention further relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting in performing the following steps:
1) A composition (A) and a composition (B) are applied to the skin and/or the lips i) simultaneously or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, irrespective of the order of application; or a composition as described previously, or a composition (D); at least the or one of the compositions applied comprising at least one dyestuff;
2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and/or lips thus treated.
The invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, which consists in performing the following steps:
1) A composition (M) comprising at least one dyestuff is applied to the skin and/or the lips;
2) A composition (A) and a composition (B) are applied to the skin and/or lips thus treated, i) simultaneously or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, regardless of the order of application; or a composition (D).
Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic makeup and/or care kit, comprising at least:
a) a first composition (A) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X as defined previously; and
b) a second composition (B) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone compounds, which are preferably nonionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated compounds, at least one of which is chosen from the compounds of the following formula: R-(OP)n-(OE)m-OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH3)-CH2-; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH2CH2-, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50, more particularly between 3 and 40;
said compositions (A) and (B) being packaged separately.
Other features and advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
In the context of the present invention, it is indicated that the skin refers to the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), of the body and of the hands.
The compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This means that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable” means compatible with the skin and/or the lips, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrogen bonding interaction” means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reagents and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reagent, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine. In the context of the invention, the hydrogen bond(s) are formed between the hydroxyl function(s) (OH) of the reactive phenol group(s) of the polyphenol X and the hydroxyl group(s) of the compounds Y that are capable of reacting by hydrogen bonding with the polyphenol X.
The term “room temperature” means 25°C.
The term “atmospheric pressure” means 760 mmHg, i.e. 1,013.105 pascals.
POLYPHENOL X
The polyphenols X that may be used according to the present invention include in their structure at least two, preferably at least three, different phenol groups.
The term “polyphenol” means any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene compounds (i.e.; groups), in free or fused form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl (OH) group, preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 hydroxyl groups.
The term “different phenol groups” refers to phenol groups that are chemically different.
The polyphenols X that may be used according to the invention may be synthetic or natural. They may be in isolated form or contained in a mixture, notably contained in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenol groups that are differently substituted on the aromatic ring.
The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.
Examples of flavonoids that may be mentioned include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin or naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein or genistein; neoflavanoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and mixtures thereof.
Among the natural polyphenols X that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of lignins.
Examples of non-flavonoids that may be mentioned include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidin; and mixtures thereof.
As polyphenols X that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted with phenols.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol will be chosen from catechin tannins such as gallotannins chosen from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescalin, castalin, casuarictin, castanopsinins, excoecarianins, grandinin, gradinin, roburins, pterocarinin, acutissimin, tellimagrandins, sanguiin, potentillin, pedunculagin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, repandisinic acid, ascorgeraniin, stachyurin, casuarinin, casuariin, punicacortein, coriariin, cameliatannin, isodeshydrodigalloyl, dehydrodigalloyl, hellinoyl, punicalagin and rhoipteleanins.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract having the INCI name Green Tea Extract, notably comprising at least 45% epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of said extract, for instance the commercial product sold under the name Dermofeel Phenon 90 M-C® sold by Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name Tea Polyphenols Green Tea Extract® by Tayo Green Power.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark having the INCI name Pinus pinaster Bark/Bud Extract, notably comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract, such as the commercial product sold under the name Pycnogenol® sold by Biolandes Arômes.
Tannic acid will be used more particularly as polyphenol X. This compound is notably sold under the name Brewtan F by the company Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv.
COMPOUNDS Y
The compound(s)s Y that are capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X are thus chosen from the compounds of the following formula: R-(OP)n-(OE)m-OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group of formula: -OCH(CH3)-CH2-; OE represents a divalent radical of formula: -OCH2CH2-, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50, preferably between 3 and 40.
According to a particular embodiment, the compounds Y, in the medium of the composition, do not include an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are nonionic.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises compounds Y with a molar mass of greater than 200 g/mol, or even greater than 350 g/mol.
Preferably, the compound Y is chosen from the compounds whose INCI name is as follows: PPG-26-buteth-26, PPG-12-buteth-16, PPG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, PPG-6-decyltetradeceth-30, and mixtures thereof.
According to an advantageous variant of the present invention, the composition comprises at least two compounds Y. In other words, at least one of the compounds Y is chosen from compounds of the following formula: R-(OP)n-(OE)m-OH, detailed previously.
The composition may also comprise at least one compound Y that is capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated alkylglycols or glycerol, polyethylene glycols, poloxamers, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated esters, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and polysorbates, polyoxyethylenated sugar ester or ether derivatives, polyoxyethylenated (poly)amines, and also mixtures thereof.
Polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated silicone compounds
Nonionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units and/or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; nonionic, polyoxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxanes bearing one or more ester functions, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units; and also mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the compound(s) Y are chosen from the following compounds designated by their INCI name: PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate, Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax, and also mixtures thereof.
Polyoxyethylenated alcohols
Among the compounds of this type, mention may be made of, alone or as mixtures:
Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the type R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50, notably chosen from Ceteth-2, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-25, Ceteth-40, Isoceteth-20, Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4, Laureth-12, Laureth-23, Oleth-2, Oleth-5, Oleth-10, Oleth-20, Oleth-25, Deceth-3, Deceth-5, Beheneth-10, Steareth-2, Steareth-10, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-100, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, Coceth-7 and Trideceth-12, and mixtures thereof.
Polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycols or glycerol
The following may notably be mentioned, alone or as mixtures:
Polyoxyethylenated glycerols, in particular glycerol oxyethylenated with 26 OE (Glycereth-26).
Polyoxyalkylenated alkanediols such as PEG-8 Caprylyl Glycol.
Compounds of the type: R-(O-CH2-CH2)o-O-CH2-CH(R’)OH in particular Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol.
Polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycol ethers such as PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether.
Compounds of the type H(O-CR-CH2)o-(CH2-CH2-O)p-(CH2-C(R)H-O)rH,
in particular PEG-45/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer.
Polyethylene glycols
As regards these compounds, they may be chosen, alone or as mixtures, from polyethylene glycols of the type H(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH, in particular chosen from PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-14M, PEG-20, PEG-45M, PEG-90, PEG-90M, PEG-150, PEG-180 and PEG-220, and mixtures thereof.
Poloxamers
Poloxamers (INCI name) which correspond in particular to the formula below are suitable for performing the invention: HO-(CH2-CH2-O)n-(CHCH3-CH2-O)O-(CH2-CH2-O)p-H, and for example chosen from Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, and also mixtures thereof.
Polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated esters
The following are suitable, for example:
Polyethylene glycol acid esters of the type:
R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH or
R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)q-O-CO-R or
R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)q-O-R or
R-O-(CH(CH3)-(CH2))p-(O-CH2-CH2)q-O-CO-R
in which R, which may be identical or different, represent saturated or unsaturated C2-C20 hydrocarbon-based groups; n, p, q, average integers, which may be identical or different, ranging from 2 to 150.
They may be chosen in particular from PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Mereth-3 Myristate, PEG-4 Olivate, Propylene Glycol Ceteth-3 Acetate and PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, and also mixtures thereof.
Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of C6-C40, more particularly C8-C30, optionally hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s), or plant oil derivatives, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 200 oxyethylene units, more preferentially from 2 to 100 oxyethylene units, even more particularly between 2 and 80 oxyethylene units. These compounds are more particularly found in the form of mono-, di- or tri-glycerides, alone or as mixtures. As examples of such esters, mention may be made of PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm/Palm Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, the mixture of Polyoxyethylenated Palm Glycerides (200 EO) and Polyoxyethylenated Coconut Kernel Glycerides (7 EO), and also mixtures thereof.
Polyoxyethylenated butters, in particular polyoxyethylenated shea butter.
Polyoxyethylenated waxes, notably chosen from polyoxyethylenated ester waxes such as polyoxyethylenated (120 OE) jojoba wax (INCI name: Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters), PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, and mixtures thereof.
Polyoxyethylenated dihydrocholesteryl esters, in particular Dihydrocholeth-30.
PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate.
Polyoxyethylenated pentaerythritol esters, in particular chosen from PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate.
Polyoxyethylenated glycerolated esters such as Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate.
Polyoxyethylenated lanolins such as Laneth-15.
Mixtures thereof.
Polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and Polysorbate
These compounds are more particularly chosen from esters of sorbitol or sorbitan (also called sorbitan) and of saturated or unsaturated, C6-C40 and advantageously C8-C30 carboxylic acid(s), comprising 2 to 50 oxyethylene units.
Among the polysorbates (INCI name), mention may be made most particularly of the compounds having the following INCI names: Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-21, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-61, Polysorbate-80, Polysorbate-85, and also mixtures thereof. As regards the esters, mention may be made of PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate.
Polyoxyethylenated sugar ester or ether derivatives
The sugar derivatives are more particularly glucose derivatives, for instance polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses such as the compounds defined by the following INCI names: Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20. Also suitable are polyoxyethylenated sugar esters, for instance the compounds having the following INCI names: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, and mixtures thereof.
Polyoxyethylenated (poly)amines
Polyoxyethylenated alkylamines that are suitable for performing the invention are those more particularly of the formula R-N[(CH2-CH2-O)H]q[(CH2-CH2-O)rH] with R representing a saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based group and q or r, which may be identical or different, represent an average integer ranging from 1 to 50, and in particular PEG-2-Oleamine. Polyoxyethylenated polyamines, for instance PEG-15 Cocopolyamine, may also be suitable for use.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compound(s) Y, different from the (poly)oxyethylenated and (poly)oxypropylene alcohols previously described may be chosen from:
- nonionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and/or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylene units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; polyoxyethylenated nonionic polydimethylsiloxanes bearing ester(s) functions, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units; and also mixtures thereof;
- polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the type R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50;
- esters of glycerol and of saturated or unsaturated C6-C40 and more particularly C8-C30 carboxylic acid(s) or carboxylic acid polymer(s), or plant oil derivatives, said esters being (poly)oxyethylenated, comprising from 1 to 200 oxyethylene units, more particularly from 1 to 100, or even from 1 to 80 oxyethylene units;
- esters of sorbitan and of polyoxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated, C8-C30 carboxylic acid(s), comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, and most particularly Polysorbates; and also mixtures thereof;
- polyoxyethylenated alkylamines; the alkyl group being C8-C30, the number of oxyethylene units being between 2 and 80; and also mixtures thereof;
- mixtures thereof.
C2-C8 MONOALCOHOL
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C8 and more particularly C2-C5 monoalcohol. By way of example, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol, and even more preferentially ethanol.
Advantageously, the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol is such that the compounds X and Y do not react together in the composition, before its application. Said monoalcohol can thus be regarded as a hydrogen-bonding inhibitor. The term “hydrogen-bonding inhibitor” refers to any compound which is capable of preventing hydrogen bonding interaction between the polyphenol X and the compound Y and/or which is capable of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonding.
More particularly, the content of C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol, and more particularly ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, preferably between 25% and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30% and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
WATER AND WATER-SOLUBLE SOLVENTS
The composition may optionally comprise water. It may be a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
More particularly, the water content is less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In accordance with a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the water content of the composition is between 0 and 5% by weight, limits inclusive, relative to the total weight of said composition.
In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, the water content is less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is anhydrous. It should be noted that in such a case, water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small amounts or even in trace amounts in the various products used.
If the composition comprises water, then the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, and more particularly ranges from 2 to 6.
The composition may optionally comprise other ingredients or solvents which are soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol or dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones or C2-C4 aldehydes.
OILY PHASE
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention, which is preferably liquid, may comprise an oily phase.
The term “oily phase” refers to a phase which is liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one fatty substance other than the compounds Y, such as oils, waxes or pasty substances and also optionally all the organic solvents and ingredients that are soluble or miscible in said phase.
Oils
The oil(s) may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
The term “oil” refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1,013.105 Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” refers to an oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. These oils are thus different from silicone oils.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapour pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.
The term “non-volatile oil” refers to an oil that remains on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapour pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured via the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure (standard OCDE 104).
The oily phase of the composition may also be in a single-phase or multi-phase form, notably in a two-phase form. It should be noted that the phases may or may not be sub-dispersed in each other.
Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils
Among the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, mention may be made more particularly of those chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of the hydrocarbon type (i.e. apolar hydrocarbon-based oils consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) and of the ester type. In particular, they may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and notably:
- branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl,
- linear alkanes, for example C11-C15 alkanes, alone or as mixtures,
- branched C8-C16 esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate,
- mixtures thereof.
Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates, notably those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE10 2008 012 457 from the company Cognis.
Volatile silicone oils
Among the volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, inter alia, of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of such oils that may be mentioned include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), or DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning or KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu; alone or as mixtures.
Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils
The term “polar hydrocarbon-based oil ” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions, and preferably hydroxyl, ester or ether.
As examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
- triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and notably from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may notably be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; shea oil; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
- linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR’ in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue including from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, heptanoates, and notably isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl behenate;
- polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as of dilinoleic acid and of 1,4-butanediol. Mention may notably be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer) or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA®;
- linear fatty acid esters and polyesters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 80, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;
- aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, and butyloctyl salicylate;
- esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of a diol dimer and of a fatty acid and esters of a diol dimer and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer, for example having the INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175338, the content of which is incorporated in the present patent application by reference;
- fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol,
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether;
- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as the dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis;
- and mixtures thereof.
Apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils
The oil may also be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
The linear or branched, non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words non-volatile oils of hydrocarbon type).
Said linear or branched apolar oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance:
- liquid paraffin,
- squalane,
- isoeicosane,
- mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly of C15-C28, such as the mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-C21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-C28 Alkane (INCI name), for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC,
- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for instance products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers,
- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats,
- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for instance non-volatile compounds of the Puresyn® range sold by the company ExxonMobil,
- and mixtures thereof.
Non-volatile silicone oils
The non-volatile oil may also be chosen from phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils. More particularly, said silicone oils are free of (poly)alkoxylated groups, notably such as (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or (poly)glycerolated groups.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group.
More particularly, the phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil is chosen from dimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicones and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and also mixtures thereof.
These products are notably sold under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyl trimethicone) by Dow Corning; diphenyl dimethicones such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A sold by Shin-Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 sold by Wacker Chemie (trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone), alone or as mixtures. The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C (standard ASTM D-445).
More particularly, the concentration of the oily phase of the composition is between 1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 1% and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
According to a first variant of the invention, if the oily phase is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
According to another variant of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably a volatile silicone oil. Preferably, the content of volatile silicone oil is less than or equal to 20%, notably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In accordance with another embodiment of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based volatile oil, more particularly in a content of less than or equal to 20%, notably less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than 9% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight and even more precisely less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Waxes
The composition may optionally comprise at least one wax.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 40°C that may be up to 120°C.
For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
The measuring protocol is as follows:
A sample of approximately 5 mg of wax is placed in a “hermetic aluminium capsule” crucible.
The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point value of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the value of the top of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve, representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes or silicone waxes, and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
More particularly, the waxes are chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes and polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, which are preferably esters, and also mixtures thereof.
Among the apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes (i.e. waxes comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure), mention may notably be made of polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes, notably of polyethylene, and also mixtures thereof.
Among the polar hydrocarbon-based waxes (i.e. comprising carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms) that are suitable for use are waxes advantageously comprising at least one alcohol, ester and/or ether group.
Hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, sunflower wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax, and also mixtures thereof, may notably be used as waxes.
Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene, and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B® by the company Heterene.
Also suitable for use are C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate waxes, alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.
As alcohol waxes, mention may be made of linear, saturated C30-C50 alcohol mixtures such as the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
The content of wax(es), if the composition comprises any, ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Pasty compounds
The composition may optionally comprise at least one pasty compound.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty compound” means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and including at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound can exhibit a starting melting point of less than 20°C. Furthermore, the pasty compound can have, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that described in detail above for the waxes.
In the case of a pasty compound, the measuring protocol is, however, as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and it is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g. The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from:
- plant butters, for instance mango butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; babassu butter such as the product sold under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, and also orange wax, for example the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,
- partially hydrogenated plant oils, for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut kernel, palm and rapeseed plant oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,
- esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of C16-C22 fatty acids, in particular of isostearic acid, such as the compound having the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (V-L), sold by the company Nisshin Oil,
- triglycerides of optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12-C18 fatty acids; for instance the glycerides of saturated C12-C18 fatty acids sold under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),
- the polyesters obtained from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched C6-C20 monocarboxylic acids, notably such as the ester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and having the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2. This type of compound is notably sold under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo.
- polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and from at least one alcohol or polyol, for instance:
* esters of diol dimer (for example of dilinoleyl alcohol) and of dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, of behenyl alcohol and of isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
* esters of dilinoleic acid and of a mixture of phytosterols, of isostearyl alcohol, of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol and of behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
* esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of dilinoleic acid, such as those sold under the names Risocast-DA-L or Risocast-DA-H by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).
Preferably, if the composition comprises it, the pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from plant butters, partially hydrogenated plant oils, compounds having the INCI name Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and also mixtures thereof.
If the composition comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon-based compound, its/their content is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
COMPOSITION (D)
As previously mentioned, the present invention is relating to a composition (composition(D)) for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup composition, comprising:
a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups;
b) at least one compound Y chosen from the compounds, preferably nonionic compounds, of the following formula: R-(OP)n-(OE)m-OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH3)-CH2-; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH2CH2-, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 3 and 40;
c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 and notably C2-C5 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol.
Another subject of the invention concerns a composition (D) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium:
a) at least one polyphenol X as defined previously,
b) at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone compounds, which are preferably nonionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated, at least one of them being chosen from the compounds, preferably nonionic compounds, of the following formula: R-(OP)n-(OE)m-OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH3)-CH2-; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH2CH2-, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50, more particularly between 3 and 40, and
c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (D), of at least one monoalcohol including from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more particularly including from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and preferably ethanol or isopropanol, even more preferentially ethanol.
In this type of composition, the coating agent is in a latent state and only fully appears when in situ, i.e. once composition (D) is applied to the skin and/or the lips. In other words, in composition (D), before its application, the conditions (ingredients, contents) are such that they do not favour the interaction of the polyphenol(s) X and compound(s) Y with each other. Preferably, these compounds do not precipitate in the composition before its application.
Preferably, the content of polyphenol X in composition (D) is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2% and 30% by weight, and even more particularly from 3% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).
Preferably, the content of compounds Y in composition (D) is at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
More particularly, the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material, ranges between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
Advantageously, the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol, more particularly C2-C5 monoalcohol, notably ethanol, is such that the compounds X and Y do not react in composition (D) before its application. Said monoalcohol can thus be regarded as a hydrogen-bonding inhibitor. The term “hydrogen-bonding inhibitor” refers to any compound which is capable of preventing hydrogen bonding interaction between the polyphenol X and the compounds Y and/or which is capable of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonding. More particularly, the C2-C8 monoalcohol content is between 25% and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30% and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).
In accordance with a first embodiment of the invention, composition (D) comprises water. Here again, it may be a demineralized water, or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
More particularly, composition (D) comprises a water content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. In accordance with a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the water content of composition (D) is between 0 and 5% by weight, limits included, relative to the total weight of said composition.
If the composition comprises water, then the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, and more particularly ranges from 2 to 6.
The composition may also comprise other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents or ingredients (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (D) comprises an oily phase.
Reference may be made to the definition of the oily phase described previously.
More particularly, when composition (D) comprises an oily phase, then its content is between 1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 1% and 50% by weight, even more especially between 1% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
According to a first variant of the invention, if the oily phase is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
According to another variant of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably a volatile silicone oil. Preferably, the content of volatile silicone oil is less than or equal to 20% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In accordance with another embodiment of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, more particularly in a content of less than or equal to 20% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition (D) is advantageously in a liquid form.
Composition (D) may also comprise at least one wax, a list of which has been given previously, to which reference may be made. The wax content, if the composition (D) comprises any, generally ranges between 0.1% and 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
Composition (D) may optionally comprise at least one pasty compound, as described previously. If composition (D) comprises any, the content of pasty compound(s) is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
COMPOSITION (A) COMPRISING THE POLYPHENOL(S) X
More particularly, composition (A) has a polyphenol(s) X content of at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (A). Preferably the polyphenol(s) X content is between 2% and 50% by weight, preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
According to a first embodiment of the invention, composition (A) comprises water. It may be, for example, a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water. More particularly, the water content is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (A).
Composition (A) may also comprise at least one C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol. Examples that may be mentioned include ethanol, isopropanol and butanol, preferably ethanol and isopropanol and even more preferentially ethanol.
Preferably, the content of C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol, more particularly ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (A).
The pH of composition (A) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, more particularly ranging from 2 to 6.
Composition (A) may also comprise other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents or ingredients (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition (A) is anhydrous.
The term “anhydrous composition” refers to any composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, or even less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is free of water. Preferably, water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small amounts or even in trace amounts in the various products used.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition (A) comprises an oily phase.
The term “oily phase” refers to a phase which is liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one fatty substance other than the compounds Y, such as oils, waxes or pasty substances and also optionally all the organic solvents and ingredients that are soluble or miscible in said phase.
Oils
The oil(s) may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
Reference may be made to the list indicated previously as regards the nature of such oils.
When composition (A) is anhydrous, the oily phase preferably comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, more preferentially chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin such as isodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, and more particularly isododecane.
Waxes
The composition may optionally comprise at least one wax.
The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes or silicone waxes, and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
More particularly, the waxes are chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes and polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, which are preferably esters, and also mixtures thereof. Again, the detailed list of waxes remains valid and can be referred to.
Pasty compounds
Composition (A) may comprise at least one pasty compound, a list of which has been given previously and to which reference may be made.
Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from plant butters, partially hydrogenated plant oils, compounds having the INCI name Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and also mixtures thereof.
When composition (A) is anhydrous, the concentration of the oily phase of said composition is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, and more particularly ranges from 20% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition relative to the total weight of composition (A).
COMPOSITION (B) COMPRISING THE COMPOUNDS Y
Preferably, the content of compounds Y is at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 75% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
According to a first embodiment of the invention, composition (B) comprising the compound(s) Y comprises at least water. It may be, for example, a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
The amount of water is preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).
Composition (B) may also comprise at least one C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol. By way of example, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol and butanol, preferably ethanol and isopropanol, preferably ethanol.
Preferably, the content of C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol, more particularly ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (B).
The pH of composition (B) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, more particularly ranging from 2 to 6.
Composition (B) may also comprise other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents or ingredients (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
According to another embodiment of the invention, composition (B) is anhydrous.
According to another embodiment, composition (B) may comprise at least one oily phase as defined previously.
When composition (B) is anhydrous, the oily phase preferably comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, more preferentially chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isodecane, isohexadecane and isododecane, and more particularly isododecane.
When composition (B) is anhydrous, the oily phase concentration of the composition of the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, more particularly ranging from 20% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select compositions (A) and (B) so that they are compatible and can be mixed and the amounts for obtaining, in the mixture obtained, the formation of a coating agent by hydrogen bonding interaction of the polyphenol X with the compound(s) Y as defined.
COMPOSITION (C)
The present invention also relates to a composition (C) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coating agent previously formed by interaction by hydrogen bonding of at least one polyphenol X with at least two compounds Y, as defined previously.
Preformed coating agent
The coating agent present in the compositions of the invention is obtained by reacting by hydrogen bonding interaction, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated compounds; both previously described.
Advantageously, the content of preformed coating agent ranges from 1% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C).
Process for preparing the coating agent
The reaction medium may be aqueous, hydrophilic or anhydrous. Ideally, the solvent in which the coating agent is prepared is readily removable, in particular by evaporation. Thus, the coating agent can advantageously be synthesized in water or in a volatile oil such as those indicated previously, preferably isododecane.
The polyphenol X and the compounds Y are preferably introduced into the reaction medium with a ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material, ranging between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
The order of introduction is unimportant. The contact time may be very short or the mixture may be left to incubate with stirring (for a few hours).
The precipitate obtained corresponding to the coating agent is recovered either by filtration of the solvent or by centrifugation or else by evaporating off the solvent.
The precipitate is then washed several times so as to remove the initial reagents that have not been engaged in forming the precipitate. The washing solvent is more particularly chosen from solvents for the polyphenol X and/or the associated compounds Y. Ideally, the washing solvent is water.
The number of washes may be determined by assaying the polyphenol X recovered in the washing waters. When the content is low, it may be considered that the excess reagents has been removed. The amount of solvent present in the precipitate is more particularly less than 40% by weight relative to the weight of precipitate, or even less than 35% by weight relative to the weight of the precipitate.
Next, the precipitate may be dried, notably in the open air, in a heated atmosphere, under vacuum or freeze-dried.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (C) comprises at least water. It may notably be a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
Depending on the nature of the aqueous composition (C), the amount of water is preferably greater than 30% by weight, or even greater than 40% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 30% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).
The composition comprises at least one dyestuff, which will be described later.
According to another particular embodiment, composition (C) may comprise at least one oily phase as defined previously.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (C) is anhydrous.
According to another particular embodiment, composition (C) may be in a multiphase form, for example in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (continuous aqueous phase in which is dispersed an oily phase in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (continuous oily phase in which is dispersed an aqueous phase in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture).
When composition (C) contains water, the pH of the aqueous phase is preferably less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, more particularly ranging from 2 to 6.
When composition (C) comprises an oily phase, said phase comprises at least one oil, a list of which has been indicated above.
When composition (C) comprises an oily phase, the oily phase concentration is preferably greater than 10% by weight, or even greater than 20% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 30% to 75%, relative to the total weight of composition (C).
Preferably, if the composition (C) comprises an oily phase, it comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil. It preferably does not contain any volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.
When composition (C) is an emulsion, it may include one or more emulsifying surfactants.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “emulsifying surfactant” refers to an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one which contains two parts of different polarity. Generally, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). The emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) value, the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term “HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For the emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions. The HLB is greater than 8 for the preparation of O/W emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.
According to a preferential form of the invention, when composition (C) is anhydrous, the oily phase of composition (C) comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and notably C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and particularly isododecane.
The amount of volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) may preferably range from 20% to 80% by weight and even more preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition (C).
According to a preferential embodiment of the invention, in order to improve the dispersibility of the coating agent homogeneously in composition (C), a thickening system (polymers, waxes or pasty substances), a suspension agent or an emulsifying system in particular of lamellar phase type, may be added.
DYESTUFF
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention, (composition (A), (B), (C) and/or (D)), comprises at least one dyestuff, in particular chosen from synthetic and natural dyestuffs or dyestuffs of natural origin.
The dyestuff may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
Pigments
The term “pigments” means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit.
According to a first particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.
The term “mineral pigment” means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.
The size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm.
According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm.
The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an “effective” particle diameter to be determined. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
D[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.
In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
As mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.
The term “nacres” should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
The nacres can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
Among the pigments that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having an optical effect different from a simple conventional colouring effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect such as produced by conventional colorants, for instance monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, the term “stabilized” means lacking the effect of variability of the colour with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change.
For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, notably interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention, composition (A), (B), (C) and/or (D) according to the invention, comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention, composition (A), (B), (C) and/or (D) according to the invention, comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show predominant affinity for an oily phase, which can then convey them.
The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
For the purposes of the invention, the “coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed on, adsorbed on or grafted to said pigment.
The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to a person skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
The surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
According to one variant, the surface treatment consists in coating the pigments.
The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
The coating may be produced, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
The coating may be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is notably described in patent US 4 578 266.
The chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
According to another particular embodiment, the dyestuff is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
The term “organic pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.
The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
The pigment may also be a lake. The term “lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
The mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
The pigment(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention, composition (A), (B), (C) and/or (D), in contents of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly of at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly of at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the dyestuff content is less than 50% by weight, more particularly between 0.05% and 30% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned.
Water-soluble or liposoluble dyes
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the dyestuff is a water-soluble dye or a liposoluble dye.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “water-soluble dyestuff” means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “liposoluble dyestuff” means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with the oily phase, and which is capable of imparting colour.
As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5 and FDC Blue 1.
Among the natural water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of anthocyanins.
As liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made, for instance, of the liposoluble dyes DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red and Sudan brown.
As illustrations of natural liposoluble dyes, mention may be made particularly of carotenes, for instance β-carotene, α-carotene and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, quinazine green SS) and chlorophylls.
The water-soluble or liposoluble dye(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention, composition (A), (B), (C) and/or (D), in contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.02% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned.
COSMETIC ADDITIVES
The composition according to the invention, compositions (A), (B), (C) and/or (D), may contain additives that are common in cosmetics. Mention may notably be made of antioxidants, preserving agents, neutralizers, gelling agents or thickeners, surfactants, cosmetic active agents, for instance emollients, moisturizers or vitamins, and mixtures thereof.
Antioxidants
In particular, the antioxidants are used to prevent the oxidation of the polyphenol X. They may be chosen from ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, erythorbic acid, citric acid, sulfites and metabisulfite, and reducing agents of thiol type, in particular cysteine. Mention may also be made of carotenes and lycopenes, which also act as liposoluble dyes.
These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention, compositions (A), (B), (C) and/or (D), in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15.0% relative to the total weight of the composition.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention, (A), (B), (C) and/or (D), are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
The compositions according to the invention, (A), (B), (C) and/or (D), may be manufactured via the known processes, generally used in the cosmetic field.
The compositions according to the invention, (A), (B), (C) and/or (D), used according to the invention may be care, makeup or hybrid products (with a care and makeup valency) for keratin materials such as the skin, the eye contour and the lips.
MAKEUP AND/OR CARE PROCESSES
Using compositions (A) and (B)
According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting in applying successively, regardless of the order of application to the skin and/or the lips:
a) at least one composition (A) as defined previously; and
b) at least one composition (B) as defined previously;
composition (A) and/or composition (B) advantageously containing at least one dyestuff.
More particularly, the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compound(s) Y, expressed as active material, ranges between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
Variant 1
According to a first variant, the following are applied successively to the skin and/or the lips:
a) a first layer with a makeup composition (A) (base coat) as defined previously comprising at least one dyestuff, and then
b) onto the skin and/or lips thus treated, a second post-treatment layer (top coat) with a composition (B) as defined previously.
According to a particular embodiment, said makeup composition (A) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (B) is aqueous.
According to another particular embodiment, said makeup composition (A) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (B) is anhydrous.
According to another particular embodiment, said makeup composition (A) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (B) is aqueous.
According to another particular embodiment, said makeup composition (A) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (B) is anhydrous.
Variant 2
According to a second variant, the following are applied successively to the skin and/or the lips:
a) a first layer (base coat) with a makeup composition (B) as defined previously comprising at least one dyestuff, and then
b) onto the skin and/or lips thus treated, a second post-treatment layer (top coat) with a post-treatment composition (A) as defined previously.
According to a particular embodiment, said makeup composition (B) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (A) is aqueous.
According to another particular embodiment, said makeup composition (B) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (A) is anhydrous.
According to another particular embodiment, said makeup composition (B) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (A) is aqueous.
According to another particular embodiment, said makeup composition (B) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (A) is anhydrous.
Variant 3
According to a third variant, the following are applied successively to the skin and/or the lips:
a) a first layer (base coat) of pre-treatment with a composition (A) as defined previously, and then
b) onto the skin and/or lips thus treated, a second makeup layer (top coat) with a composition (B) as defined previously comprising at least one compound Y and at least one dyestuff.
According to a particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (A) is aqueous and the makeup composition (B) is aqueous.
According to another particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (A) is aqueous and the makeup composition (B) is anhydrous.
According to another particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (A) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (B) is aqueous.
According to another particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (A) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (B) is anhydrous.
Variant 4
According to a fourth variant, the following are applied successively to the skin and/or the lips:
a) a first layer (base coat) of pre-treatment with a composition (B) as defined previously, and then
b) onto the skin and/or lips thus treated, a second makeup layer (top coat) with a composition (A) as defined previously comprising at least one dyestuff.
According to a particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (B) is aqueous and the makeup composition (A) is aqueous.
According to another particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (B) is aqueous and the makeup composition (A) is anhydrous.
According to another particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (B) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (A) is aqueous.
According to another particular embodiment, said pretreatment composition (B) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (A) is anhydrous.
Among variants 1 to 4 defined previously, use will preferably be made of variants 1 and 2, in which a first coat of makeup is applied with composition (A) or composition (B) containing said dyestuff(s).
Use will preferably be made as dyestuff of one or more pigments, when composition (A) and/or the makeup composition (B) comprises an anhydrous support comprising an oily phase.
Among the variants 1 to 4 defined previously, use will more particularly be made of variants 1 and 4 in which the dyestuffs are in composition (B) as defined previously.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the following are applied successively to the skin and/or the lips:
a) a first coat of makeup (base coat) with a preferably anhydrous composition (B) as defined previously comprising at least one dyestuff, preferably a pigment, and then
b) onto the skin and/or lips thus coloured, a second post-treatment layer (top coat) with an aqueous composition (A) as defined previously.
Using the composition according to the invention, composition (C) or (D)
Another cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, according to the invention, consists in applying to the skin and/or the lips at least one composition according to the invention, or at least one composition (C), or at least one composition (D), as defined previously.
The composition according to the invention, composition (C), composition (D), may advantageously comprise at least one dyestuff.
Involving a composition (M)
With compositions (A) and (B)
According to another subject, the present invention relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, consisting in successively applying:
(a) a layer formed by application to the skin and/or lips, i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, irrespective of the order:
a)1) at least one composition (A) as defined previously; and
a)2) at least one composition (B) as defined previously;
b) onto the skin and/or lips thus treated, a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil.
According to another particular embodiment, said process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips consists in successively applying:
a) a first layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil and at least one dyestuff; and
b) onto the first coloured layer, a second layer formed by application to the skin and/or lips, i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, irrespective of the order:
b)1) at least one composition (A) as defined previously; and
b)2) at least one composition (B) as defined previously.
The application of the compositions (A) and (B) on the one hand and of the composition (M) on the other hand, irrespective of the order of application, is advantageously performed without mixing. More particularly, it is preferable for the composition of the second step to be applied once the composition of the first step has at least partially dried. As a guide, the second step is performed a few minutes after the first.
With the composition according to the invention, composition (C) or (D)
The process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips consists in performing the following successive steps:
1) A composition as defined previously is applied to the skin and/or the lips, said composition preferably comprising at least one dyestuff;
2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and/or lips thus treated.
More particularly, the second composition is applied to the first composition, without mixing. Preferably, the second composition is applied after the composition applied in the first step has at least partially dried. Usually, the second composition is applied a few minutes after the first.
When the process is performed in the presence of compositions which do not comprise dyestuff(s), it is referred to as a cosmetic care process.
If the process is performed in the presence of at least one dyestuff, it is then referred to as a cosmetic makeup process, or possibly a hybrid process (i.e. a care and makeup process).
Preferably, the process according to the invention is performed with a composition according to the invention comprising at least one dyestuff.
Another process for making up the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, consists in successively applying:
a) a layer consisting of at least one composition (C) or a composition (D) as defined previously; the composition (C) or composition (D) applied comprising at least one dyestuff, and
b) a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil.
Another process for making up the skin and/or the lips according to the invention consists in successively applying:
a) a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil and at least one dyestuff; and
b) onto the first coloured layer, a second layer consisting of at least one composition (C) or a composition (D) as defined previously.
The application of the compositions (C) or (D) on the one hand and the composition (M) on the other hand, irrespective of the order of application, is advantageously performed without mixing. More particularly, it is preferable for the composition of the second step to be applied once the composition of the first step has at least partially dried. As a guide, the second step is performed a few minutes after the first.
Composition (M)
Composition (M) may comprise at least one oil. Reference may be made to the description of the oils given previously.
Composition (M) may also optionally comprise at least one dyestuff chosen from those defined previously.
Composition (M) may advantageously comprise at least one silicone or non-silicone film-forming polymer, or a mixture.
As examples of silicone film-forming polymers, mention may notably be made of silicone resins, such as the resins whose INCI names are as follows: trimethyl siloxysilicate, phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and also mixtures thereof. Also suitable for use are polymers having the following INCI names: acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, acrylates/dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
The film-forming polymer may also be chosen from ethylcellulose, or ethylenic block copolymers, for instance acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name).
If composition (M) comprises any, the content of film-forming polymer(s) advantageously ranges between 0.1% and 50% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (M).
Composition (M) may also contain one or more ingredients commonly used in this type of product, such as pasty compounds, in particular hydrocarbon-based compounds, for instance compounds such as plant butters (e.g. shea butter), ester compounds derived from dimerdiol dimerdilinoleate (e.g. bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate) or bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; waxes, notably hydrocarbon-based waxes, polar waxes (for example of ester type) or apolar waxes (for example polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, etc.); organic solvents; thickeners; colourless or white, lamellar or spherical fillers, or fillers in the form of fibres; cosmetic active ingredients such as vitamins, solar UV-screening agents, moisturizers, antioxidants.
Composition (M) may or may not comprise water.
Composition (M) may be a product, notably for making up and/or caring for the skin, the face, the cheeks or the eye contour. If these compositions (M) are intended for makeup, then they contain at least one dyestuff as defined previously.
The compositions (M) for the skin are preferably gels, creams, milks or lotions. They may be aqueous dispersions, oily anhydrous compositions or multi-phase compositions such as oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, or two-phase or three-phase compositions.
The compositions (M) for the skin may also be in hot-cast solid form.
The compositions (M) for the skin, in particular for makeup, may also be eyeshadows or face powders, and are more particularly in the form of loose or compact powder.
The term “compact powder” means a mass of product whose cohesion is at least partly provided by compacting during the manufacture.
The term “loose powder” means a mass of product that is capable of collapsing under its own weight; such a mass being formed by particles that are predominantly isolated and mobile relative to each other.
The makeup compositions (M) in the form of loose or compact powder, which are preferably anhydrous, generally comprise at least one powder phase, in a content notably greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising at least one filler which may represent a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition (M) may be a product intended to be applied to the lips, notably a lipstick, a lip gloss or a lip balm.
The lip compositions (M) may be in solid form such as a wand or products in a dish or alternatively in liquid form.
They may be anhydrous or aqueous, notably water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions.
Composition (M) may also be an eyeliner which is preferably an aqueous composition with at least one film-forming polymer, notably in the form of a particle dispersion (latex).
PACKAGING AND APPLICATORS
Compositions (A), (B), (C), (D) and/or (M) according to the invention may each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment that comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing member.
The container may be in any suitable form. It may notably be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar or a case.
The closing member may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid or a cover, notably of the type including a body fixed to the container and a cap articulated on the body. It may also be in the form of a member for selectively closing the container, notably a pump, a valve or a flap valve.
The container may be associated with an applicator, for example in the form of a brush (as described, for example, in patent FR 2 722 380), in the form of a deformable or undeformable element, made of foam or elastomer, and flocked or not flocked. The applicator may also be free (sponge) or securely fastened to a rod borne by the closing member, as described, for example, in patent US 5 492 426. The applicator may be securely fastened to the container, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959.
The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
The closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closing member and the container occurs other than by screwing, notably via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by gripping. The term “click-fastening” in particular means any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, notably of the closing member, followed by return to the elastically unconstrained position of said portion after the bead or cord has been crossed.
The container may be at least partially made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials that may be mentioned include polypropylene and polyethylene.
The container may have rigid or deformable walls, notably in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.
The container may comprise means intended to bring about or facilitate the dispensing of the composition. By way of example, the container may have deformable walls so as to make the composition exit in response to excess pressure inside the container, which excess pressure is brought about by the elastic (or non-elastic) squeezing of the walls of the container.
The container may be equipped with a drainer positioned in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be securely fastened. Such a drainer is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression “comprising a” should be understood as being synonymous with “comprising at least one”, unless otherwise specified.
The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.
In addition, the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples presented below.
Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as mass percentages.
The examples that follow are presented as nonlimiting illustrations of the invention.
Examples
Example 1
The following compositions (D) were prepared:
Ingredients (INCI name) (D1) (D2) (D3) DComp
Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 11.25 10 15 10
PPG-5-CETETH-20
(Procetyl AWS-LQ-(AP) – Croda)		 3.75 5 7.5
PEG-10 olive glyceride
(Olive Oil W -Lipoid Kosmetik)		 11.25 5 7.5
Red 7
(Unipure Red LC 3079 OR – Sensient)		 10 10 10 10
Ethanol qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
Preparation process
Under Rayneri stirring, dissolve the tannic acid (polyphenol X) in the solvent at room temperature.
Once the tannic acid has dissolved, add the compounds Y with continued stirring.
After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, add the dyestuff(s) and continue stirring until homogenization is complete.
Package.
Application of the compositions
The compositions are in the form of coloured liquids. If phase separation is observed, simply shake the container to rehomogenize the composition before application.
The compositions are easily applied to the lips, using a dipping applicator, for example, as a homogeneous and fine, relatively comfortable deposit. The deposit does not run.
Once dry, it is almost imperceptible.
The composition was evaluated in a test of resistance to mechanical stress and chemical attack: dry rubbing, water and oil.
Protocol for evaluating the performance 
1. Preparation of the test:
Support: Beige supplale (2.5 x 5 cm) (sold by Soudotique).
Spread composition (D) over the entire surface three times in a row to obtain a homogeneous deposit. Repeat the operation on two other strips.
Allow the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes.
If a composition (M) is used, then apply it on top of composition (D), over the entire surface three times in a row to obtain a homogeneous deposit. Do the same on the other two strips.
Allow the deposit to dry again on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes.
If necessary, take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before stressing.
2. Stresses:
Prepare a tissue for each application:
Fold each tissue twice on the long edge and then twice in the other direction to form a square.
Dry strength:
Rub once with the folded tissue lengthwise against one of the three made-up supports; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing makeup from the skin or the lips.
Observe the state of the rubbed surface and the used surface of the tissue, in particular the remaining colouring and the transferred colouring.
If necessary, take a photo.
If several passes are made, they should be performed with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e. after each pass, the tissue is lifted to be repositioned at the “start” of the strip so as to be reapplied on the deposit in the same way as the previous pass). If necessary, take a photo between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of process can be used to evaluate the overall strength of the deposit.
Water resistance :
Insert the second made-up support, without folding it, into a centrifuge tube.
Add 10 grams of demineralized water.
Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450×g.
If necessary, take a photo of the support after mixing, immediately after the operation.
Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for the dry strength.
Observe the state of the rubbed surface and the used surface of the tissue, in particular the remaining colouring and the transferred colouring.
If necessary, take a photo.
The protocol for multiple passes is the same as that detailed above for dry strength.
Oil resistance:
Perform the same protocol as for the water resistance, on the third made-up support, replacing the water with the same amount of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil - Aarhuskarlshamn).
Grading:
For each stress, record the result according to the table below:
Grade State of the deposit Surface of the tissue in contact with the deposit
- -
Total or partial removal of the deposit from the rubbed area; the surface of the support appears in places Very intense colouring - very substantial to total colour transfer
-
Partial removal resulting in significantly and visibly less intense colouring of the deposit. Intense colouring - substantial colour transfer
+
Decrease in colour intensity of the deposit which is noticeable but does not reveal the support Medium colouring - moderate colour transfer
++
No substantial change in the deposit colour Slight colouring - little colour transfer
+++
No variation in the deposit colour No colouring or barely visible colouring - very little or no colour transfer
It should be noted that in order to facilitate the evaluation of the durability of the deposit, the deposit comprises at least one dyestuff with a sufficiently intense colour (for example a red dyestuff, notably such as Red 7).
If several compositions are compared, they have the same colour (same amount and same dyestuff).
It should be noted that the durability of the deposit, and also other properties (homogeneity, comfort, etc.) can also be evaluated by a Sensory Panel (group of trained experts making it possible to obtain a description of technical characteristics - standards ISO 8586, ISO 11132, ISO 13299).
Results:
Test Dry rubbing resistance Rubbing resistance in water Rubbing resistance in oil
D1 +++ +++ +++
D2 +++ ++ ++
D3 +++ +++ +++
DComp ++ + +
Example 2: Composition (A) and composition (B)
The following compositions (A) were prepared:
Ingredients (INCI name) (A1) (A2)
Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 10 5
Red 27 (Unicert RED K7053-J – Sensient) - 0.5
Ethanol qs 100 qs 100
Preparation process
Under Rayneri stirring, dissolve the tannic acid (polyphenol X) in the solvent(s) at room temperature.
After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, if necessary, add the dyestuff and continue stirring until homogenization is complete.
Package
The following compositions (B) were prepared:
Ingredients (INCI name) (B1) (B2)
PEG-10 olive glyceride (Olive Oil W - Lipoid Kosmetik) 5 2.5
PPG-5-Ceteth-20 (Procetyl AWS-LQ-(AP) – Croda) 5 2.5
Red 27 (Unicert RED K7053-J – Sensient) 0.5
Ethanol qs 100 qs 100
Preparation process
Under Rayneri stirring, mix compound X in the solvent at room temperature.
Once homogeneous, add the dyestuff, if present.
Leave stirring until the mixture is homogeneous.
Package
Application of the compositions
First, a composition (A) (or a composition (B)) is applied so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit on the lips.
Next, once the first composition has dried, a composition (B) (or a composition (A)) is applied over it, without mixing, as a top coat according to the combinations below:
Test   Test 1 Test 2
Base coat  (B1) (A2)
Top coat  (A1) (B2)
Performance evaluations 
The conditions of the performance evaluation test are the same as those detailed for Example 1, except that in the first step a composition (A) (or, respectively, a composition (B)) is applied; then in the second step a composition (B) (or, respectively, a composition (A)) is applied. The grading is the same as detailed in Example 1.
Results:
Test Dry rubbing resistance Rubbing resistance in water Rubbing resistance in oil
Test 1 +++ +++ +++
Test 2 +++ +++ +++
Examples 3: Two-step process with a composition (D)
The following compositions (M) were prepared:
Composition (M1)
Ingredients (INCI name) Amount
% by weight
Isododecane qs 100
Trimethyl siloxysilicate (SR 1000 - Momentive Performance Materials) 17.5
Lauroyllysine 1.5
Disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V® - Elementis) 26
Isododecane 20
Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer (Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant – Dow Corning) 11
C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax – Dow Corning) 0.5
Preparation process
Under Rayneri stirring, mix all the compounds together directly at 70°C.
Leave stirring until the mixture is homogeneous and allow to cool to room temperature.
Package.
Compositions (M2)
Ingredients (INCI name) Amount
% by weight 		phase
Octyldodecanol qs 100 A
Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 – Ashland) 30
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000 – Wacker) 30 B
Preparation process
Under Rayneri stirring, mix the compounds of phase A at 95°C.
Leave stirring until the mixture is thoroughly homogeneous.
Add phase B with stirring.
Once the mixture is homogenized, allow to cool to room temperature.
Package.
Application of the compositions
Composition (D2) of Example 1 is applied first so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit on the support (base coat).
Next, once the first composition has dried, a composition (M1) or (M2) (top coat) is applied over it without mixing, according to the following combinations:
Test Test 3 Test 4
Base coat (D2) (D2)
Top coat (M1) (M2)
The deposit obtained in test 1 is very fine, homogeneous and comfortable, without migration or transfer (for example, notably, kiss test on a cup).
The deposit obtained in test 2 remains relatively fine, comfortable and non-tacky, without migration or transfer.
The conditions of the performance evaluation test are the same as those detailed for Example 1, as is the grading.
Results:
Test Dry rubbing resistance Rubbing resistance in water Rubbing resistance in oil
Test 3 +++ +++ +++
Test 4 +++ +++ +++
Example 3
The following compositions were prepared:
Ingredients (INCI name) Invention 3 Comparative 3
Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 15 15
PPG-5-Ceteth-20 (Procetyl AWS-LQ-(AP) – Croda) 15 -
Red 7
(Unipure Red LC 3079 OR – Sensient)		 10 10
Ethanol qs 100 qs 100
Preparation process
Under Rayneri stirring, dissolve the tannic acid (polyphenol X) in the solvent at room temperature.
Once the tannic acid has dissolved, add the compound Y with continued stirring.
After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, add the dyestuff and continue stirring until homogenization is complete.
Package.
Application of the compositions
Each composition is applied to the lips as a fine and homogeneous, sufficiently comfortable deposit, which does not migrate, without colour transfer (for example kiss test on a cup).
The composition according to the invention gives a more resistant deposit than the comparative composition (evaluation according to the protocol detailed in Example 1).
Results:
Test Dry rubbing resistance Rubbing resistance in water Rubbing resistance in oil
Invention 3 +++ +++ +++
Comparative 3 ++ + ++
Example 4: Two-step process
The following composition (M3) was prepared:
Ingredients (INCI name) Amount
weight % 		Phase
Octyldodecanol qs 100 A
Ethylcellulose
(Aqualon EC N7 – Ashland)		 30
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone
(Belsil PDM 1000 – Wacker)		 30 B
Preparation process
Under Rayneri stirring, mix the compounds of phase A at 95°C.
Leave stirring until the mixture is thoroughly homogeneous.
Add phase B with stirring.
Once the mixture is homogenized, allow to cool to room temperature.
Package.
Application of the compositions
The first composition (Invention 3 described in Example 3) is applied to the lips using a dipping applicator so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit.
Next, once the deposit has dried, the second composition (M3) is applied.
A homogeneous, comfortable deposit is obtained which does not migrate or transfer (for example kiss test, notably on a cup).
The deposit is evaluated according to the protocol detailed in Example 1.
Results:
Dry rubbing resistance Rubbing resistance in water Rubbing resistance in oil
+++ +++ +++
Example 5: Two-step process
The following composition was prepared:
Ingredients (INCI name) Invention 4
Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 5
PPG-5-Ceteth-20 (Procetyl AWS-LQ-(AP) – Croda) 5
Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 OR – Sensient) 10
Ethanol qs 100
Preparation process
Under Rayneri stirring, dissolve the tannic acid (polyphenol X) in the solvent at room temperature.
Once the tannic acid has dissolved, add the compound Y with continued stirring.
After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, add the dyestuff and continue stirring until homogenization is complete.
Package.
Composition (M4)
The following composition was prepared:
Ingredients (INCI name) Amount
weight %
Isododecane qs 100
Trimethyl siloxysilicate
(SR 1000 - Momentive Performance Materials)		 17.5
Lauroyllysine 1.5
Disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate
(Bentone Gel ISD V® - Elementis)		 26
Isododecane 20
Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer
(Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant – Dow Corning)		 11
C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane
(Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax – Dow Corning)		 0.5
Preparation process
Under Rayneri stirring, mix all the compounds together directly at 70°C.
Leave stirring until the mixture is homogeneous and allow to cool to room temperature.
Package.
Application of the compositions
The “Invention 4 ” composition is applied to the lips using a dipping applicator, so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit (base coat).
Next, once the deposit has dried, the second composition (M4) is applied.
A homogeneous, comfortable deposit is obtained, which does not migrate or transfer (kiss test).
The deposit is evaluated according to the protocol detailed in Example 1.
Results:
Dry rubbing resistance Rubbing resistance in water Rubbing resistance in oil
+++ +++ +++

Claims (31)

  1. Composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup composition, comprising:
    a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups;
    b) at least one compound Y chosen from the compounds, preferably nonionic compounds, of the following formula: R-(OP)n-(OE)m-OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH3)-CH2-; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH2CH2-, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50, preferably between 3 and 40;
    c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, isopropanol.
  2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is chosen from catechin tannins, notably chosen from gallotannins and ellagitannins.
  3. Composition according to either of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, notably a green tea extract, in particular comprising at least 45% by weight of epigallocatechin relative to the weight of said extract.
  4. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark, notably comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract.
  5. Composition according to either of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is tannic acid.
  6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyphenol content is at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 30 % by weight and even more particularly from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the molar mass of compound Y is greater than 200 g/mol, or even greater than 350 g/mol.
  8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that compound Y is chosen from the compounds whose INCI name is as follows: PPG-26-buteth-26, PPG-12-buteth-16, PPG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, PPG-6-decyltetradeceth-30, and mixtures thereof.
  9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that compound Y is also chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated alkylglycols or glycerol, polyethylene glycols, poloxamers, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated esters, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and polysorbates, polyoxyethylenated sugar ester or ether derivatives, polyoxyethylenated (poly)amines, and also mixtures thereof.
  10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that compound Y is also chosen from:
    - nonionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and/or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylene units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; polyoxyethylenated nonionic polydimethylsiloxanes bearing ester(s) functions, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units; and also mixtures thereof;
    - polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the type R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50;
    - esters of glycerol and of saturated or unsaturated C6-C40 and more particularly C8-C30 carboxylic acid(s) or carboxylic acid polymer(s), or plant oil derivatives, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 200 oxyethylene units;
    - esters of sorbitan and of polyoxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated, C8-C30 carboxylic acid(s), comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, and most particularly Polysorbates; and also mixtures thereof;
    - polyoxyethylenated alkylamines; the alkyl group being C8-C30, the number of oxyethylene units being between 2 and 80;
    - mixtures thereof.
  11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least two compounds Y.
  12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of compound(s) Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, more particularly between 5% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compound(s) Y, expressed as active material, ranges between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
  14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol is between 25% and 98% by weight, notably between 30% and 90% by weight, preferably between 35% and 85% by weight, more particularly between 35% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least water, more particularly in a content of less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, or less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oily phase, more particularly in a content of between 1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 1% and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile silicone oil.
  18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, in a content of less than or equal to 20% by weight, notably less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one dyestuff which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin; in particular chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (called composition (D)) comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
    a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups;
    b) at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone compounds, which are preferably nonionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated, at least one of them being chosen from the compounds, preferably nonionic compounds, of the following formula: R-(OP)n-(OE)m-OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH3)-CH2-; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH2CH2-, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50, more particularly between 3 and 40, and
    c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one monoalcohol including from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably including 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and more particularly ethanol or isopropanol.
  21. Makeup and/or care process, which consists in applying to the skin and/or the lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition according to any one of the preceding claims.
  22. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, which consists in applying to the skin and/or the lips, preferably to the lips:
    a) at least one composition (A) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 5; and
    b) at least one composition (B) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two compounds Y chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone compounds, which are preferably nonionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated compounds, at least one of which is chosen from the compounds of the following formula: R-(OP)n-(OE)m-OH, in which formula R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical; OP represents a divalent group -OCH(CH3)-CH2-; OE represents a divalent radical -OCH2CH2-, n and m represent, independently of each other, an average integer between 1 and 50, as defined according to any one of Claims 1 and 7 to 11;
    said compositions (A) and (B) being applied to the skin and/or the lips,
    i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use; or iii) successively, regardless of the order of application.
  23. Process according to Claim 22, characterized in that the content of polyphenol X represents at least 2% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
  24. Process according to either of Claims 22 and 23, characterized in that the content of compounds Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 75% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
  25. Process according to any one of Claims 22 to 24, characterized in that composition (A) and/or composition (B) comprises water more particularly in a content of greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A) or (B).
  26. Process according to any one of Claims 22 to 25, characterized in that composition (A) and/or composition (B) comprises at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, more particularly in a content of greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A) or (B).
  27. Process according to any one of Claims 22 to 26, characterized in that composition (A) and/or (B) comprises at least one oily phase, more particularly in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 20% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A) or (B).
  28. Process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, according to any one of Claims 22 to 27, characterized in that composition (A) and/or (B) comprises at least one dyestuff which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin; in particular chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  29. Process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, according to any one of Claims 21 to 28, which consists in performing the following steps:
    1) A composition (A) and a composition (B) are applied to the skin and/or the lips i) simultaneously or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, irrespective of the order of application; or a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 20; at least the or one of the compositions applied comprising at least one dyestuff;
    2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and/or lips thus treated.
  30. Process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, according to any one of Claims 22 to 28, which consists in performing the following steps:
    1) A composition (M) comprising at least one dyestuff is applied to the skin and/or the lips;
    2) A composition (A) and a composition (B) are applied to the skin and/or lips thus treated, i) simultaneously or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, irrespective of the order of application; or a composition (D) according to Claim 20.
  31. Cosmetic makeup and/or care kit, comprising at least:
    a) a first composition (A) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 5, 23 and 25 to 28; and
    b) a second composition (B) as defined in any one of Claims 1, 6 and 24 to 28, said composition comprising at least two compounds Y;
    said compositions (A) and (B) being packaged separately.
PCT/EP2023/060581 2022-04-28 2023-04-24 Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbon-based compound and a monoalcohol, and processes using same WO2023208807A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FRFR2204049 2022-04-28
FR2204049A FR3134976A1 (en) 2022-04-28 2022-04-28 Makeup process using a polyphenol and at least two polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated compounds, compositions for implementing the process
FR2204046A FR3134982A1 (en) 2022-04-28 2022-04-28 Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbon compound, a monoalcohol and process using it
FRFR2204046 2022-04-28

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