WO2023118354A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of alkyl polyglucosides - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of alkyl polyglucosides Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023118354A1
WO2023118354A1 PCT/EP2022/087327 EP2022087327W WO2023118354A1 WO 2023118354 A1 WO2023118354 A1 WO 2023118354A1 EP 2022087327 W EP2022087327 W EP 2022087327W WO 2023118354 A1 WO2023118354 A1 WO 2023118354A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
composition
alkyl
composition according
alkyl polyglucoside
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PCT/EP2022/087327
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French (fr)
Inventor
Morgane BOURDIN
Theo FENEANT
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2023118354A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023118354A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q13/00Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention aims to provide a novel composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, for the care and hygiene of keratin materials, notably of the skin of the face and/or of the body or the hair.
  • a cosmetic composition notably a fragranced composition
  • a cleansing product for keratin materials preferably a shower gel or a face cleansing product, which is natural and able to solubilize one or more fragrancing substances while retaining a clear appearance and organoleptic properties, in particular an odour, which are acceptable to users.
  • the consumers and formulators of cosmetic compositions desire to dispense with as many "chemical” products as possible in favour of "natural” products which are advantageously not persistent in the environment, to limit the number of ingredients in these compositions, but also to favour processes for preparing these compositions that require the least amount of energy.
  • the products for cleansing keratin materials are very important for eliminating greasy residues, such as excess sebum or the residues of cosmetic products used daily, that accumulate in skin folds and are responsible in particular for blocking the pores of the skin.
  • detergent cosmetic compositions for example of shampoo or shower gel type, based essentially on surfactants
  • surfactants for example of shampoo or shower gel type
  • These compositions are generally applied to the keratin materials, which are preferably wet, and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a washing mitt makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the various types of soiling initially present on the hair or the skin.
  • anionic surfactants in particular of sulfate type, which are very good detergent surfactants.
  • the sulfates may prove to be relatively unfriendly to the keratin materials to be washed, in particular by having a drying effect on said materials, or even a negative impact on the conditioning of the hair or the skin, especially for certain sensitive consumers.
  • the impairment in the cosmetic properties of the hair or the skin thus results in the sulfates being combined with conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, silicones or non- silicone oils.
  • conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, silicones or non- silicone oils.
  • the cleansing cosmetic compositions may contain a certain level of non-ionic surfactant(s), for example non-biodegradable surfactants based on polyethylene glycol (PEG).
  • the PEG may be contaminated by measurable amounts of 1,4-dioxane which may remain in the environment for a long time, owing to the difficult decomposition thereof.
  • 1,4-dioxane is a controlled chemical substance due to its suspected toxicity.
  • Cleansing compositions comprising at least one polyalkyl glucoside surfactant have already been proposed, in particular since these surfactants are derived from renewable raw materials and are biodegradable, for example in document EP 2 217 203.
  • compositions having a novel visual appearance, namely compositions that are particularly clear, or even transparent.
  • a clear and transparent cleansing cosmetic composition is generally associated, by consumers, with freshness, gentleness, purity, cooling, cleanliness, etc.
  • Transparent products are therefore used for a variety of personal care applications.
  • a transparent product when it is packaged in transparent packaging, enables the consumers to see all of the product.
  • compositions have a satisfactory rheology, not too liquid to be able to hold them in the hand and apply them easily, and not too viscous so that there are no problems about leaving the bottle and applying them to keratinous materials.
  • compositions must not be too viscous when scaled up to industrial manufacture. Indeed, especially when the compositions comprise certain ingredients such as certain thickeners, “micro-aerations” of gel are produced which do not deaerate over time, which poses a problem, for example, at the level of packaging in the bottles because the air takes the place of the product and the filling rate of the compositions is no longer reproducible and maximized.
  • a transparent cleansing composition is described in document FR 3 106 753, and comprises a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants and from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight of at least one diol having a C3-C6 hydrocarbon chain.
  • compositions of which the clear appearance and the organoleptic properties, in particular in terms of odour, and of rheology, are retained over time.
  • compositions for cleansing keratin materials in particular of shower gel type, which are natural and clear, having improved sensory properties, notably in terms of gentleness.
  • compositions that are compatible with the current consumer demands, notably regarding the environment.
  • the present invention is specifically directed towards meeting these needs.
  • the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, comprising at least: a) at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) at least one Ce-Cs alkyl poly gluco side; and c) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1.
  • the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, comprising at least: a) at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) at least one Ce-Cs alkyl poly gluco side; and c) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1 , said composition further comprising at least one thickener chosen from alginates, in particular sodium, potassium or ammonium alginates, carrageenans, modified or unmodified starches, in particular those derived, for example, from cereal plants such as wheat, maize or rice, gums arabic, in particular acacia gum or gum arabic derived from the Acacia Senegal tree, xanthan gum, cellulose modified by esterification or etherification, in particular carboxymethyl cellulose or cellulose gum, and mixtures thereof
  • the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, comprising at least: a) at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) at least one Ce-Cs alkyl poly gluco side; and c) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1 , said composition further comprising at least one thickener, said C2-C6 alkylene glycol(s) being present in a content ranging from 2% to 60% by weight, in particular from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 15% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a cosmetic composition notably a fragranced composition
  • the combination of alkyl polyglucosides according to the invention and at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol makes it possible to obtain a clear and homogeneous cosmetic cleansing composition, even in the presence of a content of fragrancing substances of greater than 1% by weight, which retains its visual appearance and its organoleptic properties over time, in particular in which the clear appearance and the odour, in particular the fragranced notes, do not degrade over time, notably over a period that may last for several months.
  • the compositions of the invention have a satisfactory rheology for industrialization, and practical use to be applied manually on keratinous materials.
  • Decyl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside and propylene glycol have already been proposed in combination in skin cleansing compositions. Nevertheless, these compositions do not have a clear visual appearance, which is specifically sought in the present application.
  • the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use a) of at least one C9-C14 alkyl poly gluco side; b) of at least one Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside; and c) of at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol; the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce- Cs alkyl poly gluco side being strictly greater than 1, as solubilizers for at least one fragrancing substance in a composition, preferably in a cosmetic composition, said fragrancing substance being in particular present at a content of greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • a "solubilizer” is understood to denote a compound that makes it possible to formulate a composition that retains its visual and organoleptic properties, notably that remains clear or even transparent and that retains an odour that is pleasant for the consumer, in the presence of one or more fragrancing substances, in particular present in the composition in a content of greater than or equal to 1%, notably in a content ranging from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention is suitable for topical administration, that is to say for application to the surface of keratin materials, preferably the application is made directly by hand on the said keratinous materials.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the care and/or hygiene, in particular cleansing, of keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said coating materials.
  • composition according to the invention is suitable for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, and in this respect may be in the form of a shower gel, a liquid or solid soap, etc.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials, optionally in presence of water, and optionally followed by a step of rinsing said composition, in particular with water.
  • the term "keratin materials" is intended to denote the skin of the body, of the face and/or of area around the eyes, the lips, the nails, the mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, body hair, the beard, the scalp and/or head hair, or any other cutaneous area of the body. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the scalp, head hair and/or the skin.
  • skin means all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or more preferably still the skin of the face, in particular of the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin and area around the eyes.
  • compositions according to the present invention are preferably cosmetic compositions.
  • cosmetic is intended to denote a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and skin appendages.
  • the term "clear" means that the composition allows light to pass through and objects that are located behind it are seen in sharp definition. In particular, it is transparent.
  • the transparency of the composition may be characterized using a 250 ml beaker into which the composition is introduced.
  • the beaker is placed in a light box, for example of Basic Color Viewing Light type from Just Normlicht.
  • the composition is illuminated by a light that simulates daylight or the light typically found in a shop, for example in a supermarket.
  • An object, such as a pen, or the hand is positioned behind, at a distance of 0 to 3 cm; and by placing the eyes at a distance of between 20 cm and 40 cm, such as 30 cm, and perpendicular to the middle of the composition of said beaker, an evaluation is made as to whether the object or the hand can be clearly distinguished through the composition in said beaker. Alternatively, an evaluation is made directly as to whether the light source can be distinguished through the composition in the beaker.
  • the transparency of the composition can be characterized by the measurement of its turbidity, using a Hach 2100Q portable turbidimeter at 25°C.
  • the turbidity of the compositions according to the invention is less than 400 NTU units, more preferentially between 1 and 250 NTU units, even better still between 3 and 200 NTU units.
  • the term “natural” is intended to denote a compound or extract obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration, or else from a biotechnological process, notably obtained from microbiological or cell cultures, for example from fungi or from bacteria.
  • the “natural” compounds include compounds that are present in nature and that can be reproduced by chemical (hemi)synthesis.
  • the term “ of natural origin” is intended to denote any compound obtained from a natural substance which has undergone one or more associated chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to changes which do not affect the essential qualities of this substance. Mention may be made, as nonlimiting example of additional chemical or industrial treatment bringing about modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, of those permitted by the controlling bodies, such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003), or defined in recognized handbooks in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine”, 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10.
  • a compound is considered to be natural or of natural origin when it is predominantly composed of natural constituents, i.e. when the weight ratio of natural constituents to non-natural constituents which make up the compound is greater than 1.
  • fragmentation composition or “fragrancing composition” is intended to denote any composition which leaves a perfume on keratin materials after application.
  • a perfume is the result of a combination of different odorous substances which each provide a specific diffusing odour or “note” and which respectively evaporate at different periods. More precisely, each perfume has what is known as a “top note”, which is the odour that diffuses first when the perfume is applied or when the receptacle containing it is opened, a “heart or middle note”, which corresponds to the full fragrance (given off for a few hours after the “top note”) and a “base note”, which is the most persistent odour (given off for several hours after the “heart note”). The persistence of the base note corresponds to the remanence of the perfume.
  • a composition according to the invention is generally suitable for application to keratin materials, in particular topical application to the skin, and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.
  • a cosmetically acceptable medium i.e. a medium which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.
  • a "(Cx-Cz)alkyl” or else "C x -C z alkyl” group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbonbased chain comprising from x to z carbon atoms.
  • a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • a "(Cx-Cz)alkylene” or else "C x -C z alkylene” group is a divalent group derived from a (Cx- Cz) alkyl group.
  • a composition preferably a cosmetic composition, according to the invention comprises a combination of at least two specific alkyl polyglucosides, namely at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside and at least one Ce-Cs alkyl poly gluco side.
  • Alkyl polyglucosides also known as alkylpolyglucosides (APG), are known as non-ionic surfactants.
  • the hydrophilic group preferably comprises 1 to 4 saccharide units and the hydrophobic group (alkyl) may comprise 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the alkyl group may be linear as shown above or branched.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one C9-C14 alkyl poly gluco side.
  • the C9-C14 alkyl poly glucoside comprises 1, 2 to 3 saccharide units.
  • It may be a single C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside or a mixture of several C9-C14 alkyl polyglucosides.
  • it is a mixture of several C9-C14 alkyl polyglucosides, in particular comprising at least one C10 alkyl polyglucoside, at least one C12 alkyl polyglucoside and at least one C14 alkyl poly gluco side.
  • the C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1.5% to 8% by weight, such as from 4.5% to 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least one C 6 -C 8 alkyl polyglucoside.
  • the Ce-Cs alkyl poly glucoside comprises 1, 2 to 3 saccharide units.
  • the linear or branched alkyl group comprises between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 carbon atoms.
  • Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside may be a single Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside or a mixture of several Ce-C 8 alkyl polyglucosides.
  • the Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside comprises at least one C 8 alkyl polyglucoside.
  • the C 6 -C 8 alkyl polyglucoside(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 4%, such as from 3% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • C9-C14 and/or Ce-C 8 alkyl polyglucosides that are very particularly suitable for the invention, of:
  • - caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 810 UP® by the company BASF, or under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; and
  • the alkyl polyglucosides are present in a composition according to the invention in contents that make it possible to obtain a weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl poly glucoside to b) Ce-C 8 alkyl poly glucoside that is strictly greater than 1, particularly greater than 1.2, more particularly greater than 1.3. It is understood that the weight ratios of the invention are calculated in terms of active material.
  • the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce-C 8 alkyl poly glucoside is between 1.1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 5, more particularly between 1 and 2.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises, as alkyl polyglucosides, a mixture of decyl glucoside and caprylyl/capryl glucoside.
  • the present invention relates, according to one of its aspects, to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, comprising at least: i) decyl glucoside; ii) caprylyl/capryl glucoside; and iii) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol;
  • the weight ratio of i) decyl glucoside to ii) caprylyl/capryl glucoside being strictly greater than 1, particularly greater than 1.2. It is understood that the weight ratios of the invention are calculated in terms of active material. More particularly, the i)/ii) ratio is between 1.1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 5, more particularly between 1 and 2.
  • the present invention also relates, according to one of its aspects, to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, comprising at least: i) at least one Cs alkyl poly gluco side; ii) at least one C10 alkyl polyglucoside; and iii) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol; the i) Cs alkyl polyglucoside / ii) C10 alkyl polyglucoside weight ratio being strictly greater than 1, particularly greater than 1.1.
  • a cosmetic composition notably a fragranced composition
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol.
  • glycol is intended to denote a diol in which the two hydroxyl groups are borne by different carbon atoms, preferably by vicinal carbon atoms.
  • alkylene glycols that are suitable for the invention, of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the C2-C6 alkylene glycol is chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably propylene glycol.
  • propylene glycol that is very particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the commercial product sold under the name 1,2-PROPYLENEGLYCOL CARE by the company BASF.
  • the alkylene glycol(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 60% by weight, in particular from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 15% to 30% by weight, and more preferentially from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention is more particularly a fragrancing composition.
  • a composition according to the invention thus preferentially comprises at least one fragrancing substance.
  • fragmenting substance means any perfume, odorous starting material or aroma that is capable of giving off a pleasant odour, in particular as defined in the continuation of the text.
  • fragrancing odorous or odoriferous substances are synonymous.
  • Perfumes are compositions notably containing the starting materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, N.J., 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, N.J., 1960) and in Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991, Allured Publishing Co., Wheaton, III.
  • a fragranced composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one fragrancing substance chosen from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • They may be natural products, such as essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and/or synthetic products, such as terpene or sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles or peroxides, which may be saturated or unsaturated, and aliphatic or cyclic.
  • an essential oil is an odorous product, generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant starting material, either by steam distillation, or by dry distillation, or by an appropriate mechanical process without heating (cold expression).
  • the essential oil is generally separated from the aqueous phase via a physical process which does not result in any significant change in the composition.
  • essential oils depends mainly on the starting material: its original state and its characteristics, its intrinsic nature.
  • the “essential oil/plant starting material” yield may be extremely variable depending on the plant: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice determines the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, colour, solubility, volatility, and enrichment in or depletion of certain constituents.
  • Steam distillation corresponds to the vaporization, in the presence of steam, of a sparingly water- miscible substance.
  • the starting material is placed in contact with boiling water or steam in a still.
  • the steam entrains the essential oil vapour, which is condensed in the condenser and recovered as a liquid phase in a florentine vase (or essence jar), where the essential oil is separated from the water by settling.
  • the aqueous distillate that remains after the steam distillation, once the essential oil has been separated, is known as the “aromatic water” or “hydrolate” or “distilled floral water” .
  • Production by dry distillation consists in obtaining the essential oil by distillation of woods, barks or roots, without addition of water or steam, in a closed chamber designed so that the liquid is recovered at the bottom.
  • Cade oil is the best known example of a product obtained in this way.
  • the cold expression production method is applied only to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) via mechanical processes at room temperature.
  • the principle of the method is as follows: the peels are torn into pieces and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been broken are recovered by a physical process.
  • the conventional process consists in exerting an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit under a stream of water. After removal of the solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial units actually allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of the fruit juices and of the essential oil.
  • Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature, which distinguishes them from fixed oils. They are more or less coloured and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, distillable with steam, and very sparingly soluble in water.
  • essential oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families: Abietaceae or Pinaceae, for example conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Annonaceae, for example ylang-ylang; Apiaceae, for example umbellifers, in particular dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot or parsley; Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae, for example yarrow, artemisia, camomile, helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae, for example frankincense; Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Caesalpiniaceae, for example copaifera (copaiba balsam); Chenopodiaceae; Cistaceae, for example rock rose; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae,
  • fragrancing substances are notably: geraniol, geranyl acetate, farnesol, borneol, bornyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, amyl salicylate, dimethyl
  • a fragranced composition according to the invention preferably comprises a fragrancing substance chosen from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • a mixture of different fragrancing substances that generate in common a note that is pleasant to the user is used.
  • a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise a mixture of fragrancing substances, in particular of at least two different fragrancing substances.
  • the fragrancing substances will preferably be chosen such that they produce notes (head, heart and base notes) in the following families: citrus, aromatic, floral notes, in particular pink flowers and white flowers, spicy, woody, investigating, chypre, fougere, leathery, oriental and musk.
  • the amount of fragrancing substance(s) present in a composition according to the invention is able to vary significantly with regard to the odour or the odour intensity sought by its presence.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, particularly from 0.001% to 8.0% by weight, more particularly from 0.01% to 5.0% by weight and preferentially from 0.1% to 4.0% by weight of fragrancing substance(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • a composition according to the invention retains its visual appearance, in particular remains clear, in the presence of contents of fragrancing substances of greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise particularly from 1.0% to 10% by weight of fragrancing substances, more particularly from 1.0% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 2.0% to 4.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fragrancing substances may be introduced into a composition in accordance with the invention in the form of a perfume concentrate.
  • the perfume concentrate may be a concrete or an absolute, preferably an absolute.
  • a composition according to the invention generally comprises at least one aqueous phase and/or at least one oily phase, constituting a cosmetically acceptable medium for incorporating the combination of alkyl polyglucosides according to the invention, the C2-C6 alkylene glycol(s) and optionally one or more fragrancing substances, and thus forming a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, according to the invention.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase, even more preferentially is an aqueous composition, that is to say that it comprises a content of fatty substances, in particular of oil(s), of less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular of less than or equal to 4% by weight, more particularly of less than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and water-miscible (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
  • the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
  • polyol means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • a polyol that is suitable for the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
  • the polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those notably containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol may be selected for example from pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 45% to 80% by weight and preferably from 50% to 75% by weight of aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 30% to 70% by weight and preferably from 35% to 65% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used according to the invention includes an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil, notably a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
  • oil means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • An oily phase that is suitable for preparing the compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin. Oils of animal, plant or mineral origin are preferred.
  • non-volatile is understood to mean to an oil of which the vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10' 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • volatile oil is understood to mean any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10‘ 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the oils suitable for the invention are natural.
  • the fatty substance(s) suitable for the invention are a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, preferably of natural origin, the chains of which comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched C9-C12 alkanes.
  • This mixture is notably known under the INCI name C9-C12 Alkane, CAS 68608-12-8, Vegelight Silk® sold by BioSynthls.
  • This biodegradable volatile oil mixture can be obtained from coconut oil (viscosity of 0.9 to 1.1 mm 2 /s at 40°C and a flash point at 65 °C).
  • composition according to the invention contains only oils that are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.
  • the composition contains at least 80% by weight of hydrocarbonbased oils that are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, preferably volatiles, more preferentially chosen from isodecane, decane, Cetiol UT®, VEGELIGHT SILK®, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one thickener, also sometimes referred to as a gelling agent or viscosity modifier.
  • the thickener(s) may be chosen depending on the viscosity desired for the composition, in particular in order to give the composition a gel-type texture. They are therefore more particularly advantageous for the formulation of compositions in the form of gels, such as shower gels.
  • the thickeners may be synthetic, natural or of natural origin, preferably natural or of natural origin.
  • Such thickeners may more particularly be selected from natural polymers or polymers of natural origin, in particular of plant origin.
  • gelling agents are preferably hydrophilic, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water.
  • the thickener(s) are selected from modified or native polysaccharides, in particular modified or unmodified starches, fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate -based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gums arabic, sclerotium gum, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums,
  • the thickener(s) may be chosen from alginates, in particular sodium, potassium or ammonium alginates, carrageenans, modified or unmodified starches, in particular those derived, for example, from cereal plants such as wheat, maize or rice, gums arabic, in particular acacia gum or gum arabic derived from the Acacia Senegal tree, xanthan gum, cellulose modified by esterification or etherification, in particular carboxymethyl cellulose or cellulose gum, and mixtures thereof, more particularly Acacia Senegal gum and xanthan gum and mixture thereof, more preferably xanthan gum.
  • the thickener(s) suitable for the invention are chosen from xanthan gum, acacia gum, and mixtures thereof.
  • the thickness is a xanthan gum.
  • Xanthan gum advantageously makes it possible to obtain a composition having an optimal clarity, while enabling good thickening of the composition containing it.
  • the thickness is a mixture of xanthan gum and acacia gum, in particular in a xanthan gum/acacia gum weight ratio ranging from 0.5 to 1.5, in particular from 1.0 to 1.5.
  • the thickener(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 4.5% by weight, in particular from 0.3% to 4.0% by weight, more particularly from 0.4% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the thickener(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 0.9% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 0.7% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 0.6% by weight, more particularly from 0.3% to 0.5% by weight, preferably in a content of 0.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may have a viscosity, measured at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.01 Pa.s to 3.0 Pa.s.
  • the viscosity may be measured with a type 2 mobile (shear gradient 70 s' 1 ).
  • a composition according to the invention may have a viscosity, measured at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.120 Pa.s to 0.500 Pa.s, preferably from 0.130 Pa.s to 0.400 Pa.s, more preferably from 0.135 Pa.s to 0.300 Pa.s, better from 0.140 Pa.s to 0.250 Pa.s, even better from 0.146 Pa.s to 0.226 Pa.s.
  • the viscosity may be measured using a Rheomat RM 180® rheometer or a Rheomat RM 100®, at a rotational speed of 200 over 10 minutes.
  • the value obtained in deflection units (DU) is then converted into Pa.s.
  • a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional surfactant, different from the alkyl polyglucosides required according to the invention.
  • the surfactants may be chosen from non-ionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pages 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • amphoteric surfactants which are suitable for the invention are especially selected form betaines, preferably selected from alkyl betaines, in particular lauryl betaine, N-alkylamido betaines and derivatives thereof, in particular coc amidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropy betaine and N-disodium N-carboxy ethoxy ethyl N-cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate; sultaines, in particular cocoyl amidopropylhydroxy sultaine; and mixtures thereof.
  • alkyl betaines preferably lauryl betaine, N-alkylamido betaines and derivatives thereof, in particular coc amidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropy betaine and N-disodium N-carboxy ethoxy ethyl N-cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate
  • sultaines in particular cocoyl amidopropylhydroxy sultaine; and mixtures thereof.
  • (Cs-C2o)alkyl betaines such as coco betaine (also referred to as cocoyl betaine), N-(Cs-C2o)alkylamido(C3- Cs)alkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric surfactants is coco betaine.
  • amphoteric surfactant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the non-ionic surfactants may especially be selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and poly alkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention does not comprise any non-ionic surfactants other than the alkyl polyglucosides required according to the invention.
  • the anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C10-C30 and especially C16-C25 fatty acids, in particular metal stearates and behenates, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a content of sulfate- type surfactant(s) of less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferentially less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free of sulfate-type surfactant.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a content of anionic surfactant(s) of less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferentially less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free of anionic surfactant.
  • the cationic surfactants may be chosen from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts such as (Ci2-30-alkyl)-tri(Ci-4- alkyl) ammonium halides such as N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride).
  • alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate
  • ammonium salts such as (Ci2-30-alkyl)-tri(Ci-4- alkyl) ammonium halides such as N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride).
  • the composition may also comprise at least one silicone surfactant.
  • silicone surfactant By way of example, as non-ionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, mention may be made of dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate, and as non-ionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, mention may be made of the cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol mixture.
  • the additional surfactant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 1.0% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one preservative.
  • preservative or “preserving agent” means any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable compound which can prevent microbial growth (or the growth of microorganisms) which may take place in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, from the moment of their preparation, while they are in storage and up to the time of their conventional use by consumers.
  • Preserving agents that may notably be mentioned include the preserving agents described in Cosmetics, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology. John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Martin M. Rieger; 5.2 preservatives & table 3, 04/12/2000, https://doi.org/10.1002/0471238961.0315191318090507.a01.
  • esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid also known as parabens (in particular methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde releasers, for instance imidazolidinylurea or diazolidinylurea, chlorhexidine digluconate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal benzoates, such as sodium benzoate, caprylyl glycol, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, pentylene glycol, alkyltrimethylammonium bromide such as myristyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTFA name: Myrtrimonium bromide), dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal benzo
  • the preserving agent(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, notably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and in particular ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight.
  • pH adjuster a content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, notably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and in particular ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight.
  • the composition according to the invention may have a pH of between 3 and 10, and preferentially between 5 and 7, more particularly between 4.5 and 4.9.
  • This pH may be adjusted by means of pH-adjusting compounds, in particular acidifying and basifying agents conventionally used in the cosmetic field.
  • the pH of the composition according to the invention is adjusted to a pH of 4.7 +/- 0.2.
  • mineral or organic acids for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, which are optionally hydroxylated, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids, preferably the acid(s) is(are) organic(s), more preferably chosen from (Ci- C6)alkyl(poly)carboxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and more preferably citric acid.
  • basifying agents by way of example, of aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and preferably carboxylic acids such as citric acid.
  • the composition comprises one or more mineral or organic acid(s), in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 0.6%, such as 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants customary in the cosmetics field, such as agents for preventing hair loss, oxidizing agents, vitamins and provitamins, sunscreens, colorants, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, plasticizers, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fixing polymers, fillers, propellants, and mixtures thereof.
  • adjuvants customary in the cosmetics field such as agents for preventing hair loss, oxidizing agents, vitamins and provitamins, sunscreens, colorants, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, plasticizers, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fixing polymers, fillers, propellants, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention preferably does not contain any controversial ingredients, in particular with a negative impact on the environment and/or health.
  • a composition according to the invention is free of sulfates.
  • composition according to the invention is free of 1,4-dioxane.
  • the expression "free of” is understood to mean that the composition comprises less than 1.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, or indeed comprises none at all of the compound targeted by the exemption.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises, or even consists of: a) 0.5% to 10% by weight of at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) 0.5% to 5% by weight of at least one Ce-Cs alkyl poly glucoside; c) 6.0% to 35% by weight of at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol; d) 0.1% to 4.0% by weight of at least one fragrancing substance; e) 1.0% to 25% by weight of at least one adjuvant chosen from thickeners, additional surfactants, preservatives, pH adjusters, and mixtures thereof; and f) the remainder being water and/or a water-soluble solvent other than a C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1, in particular between 1.1 and 2.5, the contents being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.
  • a composition according to the invention may be in any presentation form conventionally used in the cosmetic field according to the intended applications, in particular for topical application.
  • a composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel, in particular in the form of a clear gel, preferably an aqueous gel.
  • a composition according to the invention may be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art for the formulation of cosmetic compositions for the care and hygiene of keratin materials, in particular of shower gel type.
  • a composition according to the invention may be used on any keratin material, notably as a hygiene product, for example as a product for cleansing and/or removing makeup from the skin, mucus membranes and/or hair, in particular as a product for cleansing and/or removing makeup from the skin.
  • a hygiene product for example as a product for cleansing and/or removing makeup from the skin, mucus membranes and/or hair, in particular as a product for cleansing and/or removing makeup from the skin.
  • composition according to the invention is more particularly useful for cleansing and/or removing make up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, scalp and/or hair, more particularly the skin.
  • One subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention as defined above.
  • composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and/or hair and then rinsed with water.
  • one subject of the invention is a cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials, comprising at least the steps of:
  • step (ii) rinsing off the composition applied in step (i), in particular with water.
  • a first method of evaluating the stability is carried out by observation of the composition over time.
  • the compositions introduced into a 250 ml beaker and placed in a lightbox, for example of Basic Color Viewing Light type from Just Normlicht, illuminated by a light that simulates daylight or the light typically found in a shop, and photographed before and after storage for 2 months at different temperatures: at 4°C, at ambient temperature (approximately 20°C), at 37°C and at 45°C.
  • the instability may be detected by evaluating salting out, creaming, coalescence, formation of a film at the surface, marbling, etc.
  • Another method of evaluating the stability is carried out by measuring the viscosity.
  • the viscosity of the product is measured with a Rheomat 100 RM 180 viscometer from Lamy Rheology according to the CID-012-02 method.
  • the measurement of the torque needed to overcome the resistance of the fluid whose viscosity it is desired to determine is carried out using a submerged element (spindle or measuring body) rotating at a chosen and constant speed (5 rpm).
  • the measurement is performed with a product to be analyzed/cup/measuring body assembly at 25°C.
  • the spindle used to carry out the measurements is chosen depending on the viscosity of the product to be analyzed:
  • - M4 thick cream, preferably M2 and M3.
  • the results are expressed in deviation units (DU).
  • the standard deviation is ⁇ 5 DU for viscosity values of less than or equal to 50 DU and ⁇ 7 DU for viscosity values of greater than 50.
  • compositions II to 14 according to the invention are prepared using the weight proportions as described in detail in Table 1 below.
  • the values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Perfume characterized by notes of blackcurrant bud, rose, patchouli, benzoin, blond wood and vanilla;
  • Perfume characterized by notes of vanilla, cedarwood, vetiver and tonka bean;
  • Perfume characterized by notes of clementine, juniper berry and vetiver; and Perfume characterized by notes of jasmine, patchouli, osmanthus andfreesia.
  • phase A The ingredients of phase A are weighed out and homogenized until dispersion of the benzoate is formed with turbomixer and paddles at a temperature of between 20°C and 30°C.
  • the ingredients of phase B are introduced and stirred until a homogeneous gel is obtained.
  • the ingredients of phase D are mixed together separately, and introduced with stirring after verification of a good dispersion of the xanthan. After homogenisation, phase C is added and the pH is adjusted.
  • the perfume(s) of phase E is (are) introduced and homogenized at a temperature between 20°C and 30°C.
  • the pH is adjusted to a value between 4.5 and 4.9 if necessary, by addition of citric acid or sodium hydroxide.
  • compositions II to 14 according to the invention are clear and have a pleasant odour. These compositions retain their visual appearance and their organoleptic properties over time, in particular after 1 day to 6 months, more particularly after 1 week to 4 months at ambient temperature. Moreover, the compositions have a satisfactory rheology, even after two months at 45 °C. The compositions of the invention remain stable even after several weeks, even months, at ambient temperature (after two months at 45 °C). There is no visible change, especially in terms of rheology and odour.
  • Compositions 15 and 16 are prepared using the weight proportions as described in detail in Table 2 below.
  • the values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Perfume characterized by notes of blackcurrant bud, rose, patchouli, benzoin, blond wood and vanilla;
  • Perfume characterized by notes of vanilla, cedarwood, vetiver and tonka bean;
  • Perfume characterized by notes of jasmine, patchouli, osmanthus andfreesia.
  • Compositions 15 and 16 are clear.
  • composition 15 has a suitable rheology which is in the form of a light gel, compared to composition 16 which is too liquid. This was confirmed by rheology measurements performed at a temperature of 25°C and under atmospheric pressure with a LAMY Rheology Instrument type RM 100®, mobile type 2.
  • the viscosity is significantly lower, namely 114 mPa.s (mobile 2 - shear gradient 70 s' 1 ).
  • composition 15 has not changed its appearance, and has not gained in mass, whereas composition 16 is still too liquid (almost zero viscosity).

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least: a) one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) one C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside; and c) one C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1. It also relates to the use a) of a C9-C14 alkyl poly glucoside; b) of a C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside; and c) of a C2-C6 alkylene glycol; the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) C6- C8 alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1, as a solubilizers for a fragrancing substance in a composition. It relates lastly to a cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above.

Description

Description
Title: Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of alkyl polyglucosides
Technical field
The present invention aims to provide a novel composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, for the care and hygiene of keratin materials, notably of the skin of the face and/or of the body or the hair.
It more particularly aims to provide a cleansing product for keratin materials, preferably a shower gel or a face cleansing product, which is natural and able to solubilize one or more fragrancing substances while retaining a clear appearance and organoleptic properties, in particular an odour, which are acceptable to users.
Prior art
In general, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products is becoming a major challenge for meeting new consumer expectations, in particular regarding natural and/or eco-friendly products, i.e. products whose design and development take into account their environmental impacts.
In this regard, the consumers and formulators of cosmetic compositions desire to dispense with as many "chemical" products as possible in favour of "natural" products which are advantageously not persistent in the environment, to limit the number of ingredients in these compositions, but also to favour processes for preparing these compositions that require the least amount of energy.
As cosmetic products, the products for cleansing keratin materials, such as the skin and the hair, are very important for eliminating greasy residues, such as excess sebum or the residues of cosmetic products used daily, that accumulate in skin folds and are responsible in particular for blocking the pores of the skin.
Thus, the use of detergent cosmetic compositions, for example of shampoo or shower gel type, based essentially on surfactants, is common. These compositions are generally applied to the keratin materials, which are preferably wet, and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a washing mitt makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the various types of soiling initially present on the hair or the skin. In particular, it is common to introduce, into cosmetic compositions for cleansing keratin materials, anionic surfactants, in particular of sulfate type, which are very good detergent surfactants.
Nevertheless, the sulfates may prove to be relatively unfriendly to the keratin materials to be washed, in particular by having a drying effect on said materials, or even a negative impact on the conditioning of the hair or the skin, especially for certain sensitive consumers. The impairment in the cosmetic properties of the hair or the skin thus results in the sulfates being combined with conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, silicones or non- silicone oils. It is also well known that the cleansing cosmetic compositions may contain a certain level of non-ionic surfactant(s), for example non-biodegradable surfactants based on polyethylene glycol (PEG). Moreover, depending on the preparation method, the PEG may be contaminated by measurable amounts of 1,4-dioxane which may remain in the environment for a long time, owing to the difficult decomposition thereof. Moreover, 1,4-dioxane is a controlled chemical substance due to its suspected toxicity.
Cleansing compositions comprising at least one polyalkyl glucoside surfactant have already been proposed, in particular since these surfactants are derived from renewable raw materials and are biodegradable, for example in document EP 2 217 203.
Furthermore, it has been envisaged to provide cosmetic compositions having a novel visual appearance, namely compositions that are particularly clear, or even transparent. Specifically, a clear and transparent cleansing cosmetic composition is generally associated, by consumers, with freshness, gentleness, purity, cooling, cleanliness, etc. Transparent products are therefore used for a variety of personal care applications. Moreover, a transparent product, when it is packaged in transparent packaging, enables the consumers to see all of the product.
Moreover, it is important that the compositions have a satisfactory rheology, not too liquid to be able to hold them in the hand and apply them easily, and not too viscous so that there are no problems about leaving the bottle and applying them to keratinous materials.
Further, the compositions must not be too viscous when scaled up to industrial manufacture. Indeed, especially when the compositions comprise certain ingredients such as certain thickeners, “micro-aerations” of gel are produced which do not deaerate over time, which poses a problem, for example, at the level of packaging in the bottles because the air takes the place of the product and the filling rate of the compositions is no longer reproducible and maximized.
An example of a transparent cleansing composition is described in document FR 3 106 753, and comprises a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants and from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight of at least one diol having a C3-C6 hydrocarbon chain.
However, the introduction of fragrancing substances, in particular at contents of greater than or equal to 1% by weight, negatively impacts the clarity of the cosmetic compositions containing them, in particular in the presence of highly hydrophilic surfactants.
Disclosure of the invention
Thus, there remains a need to provide clear cosmetic compositions, intended for cleansing and/or caring for keratin materials, that do not comprise any controversial ingredients and that may contain one or more fragrancing substances, in particular at contents of greater than or equal to 1% by weight.
In particular, there is a need to provide such compositions, of which the clear appearance and the organoleptic properties, in particular in terms of odour, and of rheology, are retained over time.
Moreover, there is a need to provide compositions for cleansing keratin materials, in particular of shower gel type, which are natural and clear, having improved sensory properties, notably in terms of gentleness.
Finally, there also remains a need to have compositions that are compatible with the current consumer demands, notably regarding the environment.
The present invention is specifically directed towards meeting these needs.
Summary of the invention
Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, comprising at least: a) at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) at least one Ce-Cs alkyl poly gluco side; and c) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, comprising at least: a) at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) at least one Ce-Cs alkyl poly gluco side; and c) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1 , said composition further comprising at least one thickener chosen from alginates, in particular sodium, potassium or ammonium alginates, carrageenans, modified or unmodified starches, in particular those derived, for example, from cereal plants such as wheat, maize or rice, gums arabic, in particular acacia gum or gum arabic derived from the Acacia Senegal tree, xanthan gum, cellulose modified by esterification or etherification, in particular carboxymethyl cellulose or cellulose gum, and mixtures thereof, more particularly Acacia Senegal gum and xanthan gum and mixture thereof, more preferably xanthan gum.
In particular, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, comprising at least: a) at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) at least one Ce-Cs alkyl poly gluco side; and c) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1 , said composition further comprising at least one thickener, said C2-C6 alkylene glycol(s) being present in a content ranging from 2% to 60% by weight, in particular from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 15% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In the continuation of the text, the combination of at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside and at least one Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside, the weight ratio of which is strictly greater than 1, will be denoted more simply by the expression "alkyl polyglucosides according to the invention" . The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the combination of alkyl polyglucosides according to the invention and at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol makes it possible to obtain a clear and homogeneous cosmetic cleansing composition, even in the presence of a content of fragrancing substances of greater than 1% by weight, which retains its visual appearance and its organoleptic properties over time, in particular in which the clear appearance and the odour, in particular the fragranced notes, do not degrade over time, notably over a period that may last for several months. Furthermore, the compositions of the invention have a satisfactory rheology for industrialization, and practical use to be applied manually on keratinous materials.
Decyl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside and propylene glycol have already been proposed in combination in skin cleansing compositions. Nevertheless, these compositions do not have a clear visual appearance, which is specifically sought in the present application.
Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use a) of at least one C9-C14 alkyl poly gluco side; b) of at least one Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside; and c) of at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol; the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce- Cs alkyl poly gluco side being strictly greater than 1, as solubilizers for at least one fragrancing substance in a composition, preferably in a cosmetic composition, said fragrancing substance being in particular present at a content of greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
For the purposes of the present invention, a "solubilizer" is understood to denote a compound that makes it possible to formulate a composition that retains its visual and organoleptic properties, notably that remains clear or even transparent and that retains an odour that is pleasant for the consumer, in the presence of one or more fragrancing substances, in particular present in the composition in a content of greater than or equal to 1%, notably in a content ranging from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
A composition according to the invention is suitable for topical administration, that is to say for application to the surface of keratin materials, preferably the application is made directly by hand on the said keratinous materials. Thus, the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the care and/or hygiene, in particular cleansing, of keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said coating materials.
In particular, a composition according to the invention is suitable for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, and in this respect may be in the form of a shower gel, a liquid or solid soap, etc.
Thus, the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials, optionally in presence of water, and optionally followed by a step of rinsing said composition, in particular with water.
It is understood that the cosmetic treatment processes targeted in the present patent application are non-therapeutic.
In the context of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated, the following definitions apply:
According to the invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to denote the skin of the body, of the face and/or of area around the eyes, the lips, the nails, the mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, body hair, the beard, the scalp and/or head hair, or any other cutaneous area of the body. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the scalp, head hair and/or the skin.
The term "skin" means all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or more preferably still the skin of the face, in particular of the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin and area around the eyes.
The compositions according to the present invention are preferably cosmetic compositions. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic" is intended to denote a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and skin appendages.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "clear" means that the composition allows light to pass through and objects that are located behind it are seen in sharp definition. In particular, it is transparent.
The transparency of the composition may be characterized using a 250 ml beaker into which the composition is introduced. The beaker is placed in a light box, for example of Basic Color Viewing Light type from Just Normlicht. The composition is illuminated by a light that simulates daylight or the light typically found in a shop, for example in a supermarket. An object, such as a pen, or the hand is positioned behind, at a distance of 0 to 3 cm; and by placing the eyes at a distance of between 20 cm and 40 cm, such as 30 cm, and perpendicular to the middle of the composition of said beaker, an evaluation is made as to whether the object or the hand can be clearly distinguished through the composition in said beaker. Alternatively, an evaluation is made directly as to whether the light source can be distinguished through the composition in the beaker.
Preferably, the transparency of the composition can be characterized by the measurement of its turbidity, using a Hach 2100Q portable turbidimeter at 25°C. The lower the turbidity value, expressed in NTU units, the clearer the composition.
Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions according to the invention, measured at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, is less than 400 NTU units, more preferentially between 1 and 250 NTU units, even better still between 3 and 200 NTU units. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “natural” is intended to denote a compound or extract obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration, or else from a biotechnological process, notably obtained from microbiological or cell cultures, for example from fungi or from bacteria. The “natural” compounds include compounds that are present in nature and that can be reproduced by chemical (hemi)synthesis.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ of natural origin” is intended to denote any compound obtained from a natural substance which has undergone one or more associated chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to changes which do not affect the essential qualities of this substance. Mention may be made, as nonlimiting example of additional chemical or industrial treatment bringing about modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, of those permitted by the controlling bodies, such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003), or defined in recognized handbooks in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine”, 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10.
According to the invention, a compound is considered to be natural or of natural origin when it is predominantly composed of natural constituents, i.e. when the weight ratio of natural constituents to non-natural constituents which make up the compound is greater than 1. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fragranced composition” or “fragrancing composition” is intended to denote any composition which leaves a perfume on keratin materials after application.
A perfume is the result of a combination of different odorous substances which each provide a specific diffusing odour or “note” and which respectively evaporate at different periods. More precisely, each perfume has what is known as a “top note”, which is the odour that diffuses first when the perfume is applied or when the receptacle containing it is opened, a “heart or middle note”, which corresponds to the full fragrance (given off for a few hours after the “top note”) and a “base note”, which is the most persistent odour (given off for several hours after the “heart note”). The persistence of the base note corresponds to the remanence of the perfume.
A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for application to keratin materials, in particular topical application to the skin, and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.
It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.
A "(Cx-Cz)alkyl" or else "Cx-Cz alkyl" group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbonbased chain comprising from x to z carbon atoms. For example, a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
A "(Cx-Cz)alkylene" or else "Cx-Cz alkylene" group is a divalent group derived from a (Cx- Cz) alkyl group.
The term “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more”.
The expressions “between... and...”, “comprises from ... to...”, “formed from ... to...” and “ranging from... to...” should be understood as being inclusive limits, unless otherwise specified.
Other features, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
Detailed description A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, according to the invention comprises a combination of at least two specific alkyl polyglucosides, namely at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside and at least one Ce-Cs alkyl poly gluco side.
Alkyl polyglucosides, also known as alkylpolyglucosides (APG), are known as non-ionic surfactants.
These are compounds whose chemical structure is generally represented as follows:
[Chem 1]
Figure imgf000010_0001
The hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprises 1 to 4 saccharide units and the hydrophobic group (alkyl) may comprise 6 to 30 carbon atoms. The alkyl group may be linear as shown above or branched.
C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside
As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one C9-C14 alkyl poly gluco side.
Preferably, the C9-C14 alkyl poly glucoside comprises 1, 2 to 3 saccharide units.
It may be a single C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside or a mixture of several C9-C14 alkyl polyglucosides.
Preferentially, it is a mixture of several C9-C14 alkyl polyglucosides, in particular comprising at least one C10 alkyl polyglucoside, at least one C12 alkyl polyglucoside and at least one C14 alkyl poly gluco side.
The C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1.5% to 8% by weight, such as from 4.5% to 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside.
Preferably, the Ce-Cs alkyl poly glucoside comprises 1, 2 to 3 saccharide units.
The linear or branched alkyl group comprises between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 carbon atoms.
It may be a single Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside or a mixture of several Ce-C8 alkyl polyglucosides. In particular, the Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside comprises at least one C8 alkyl polyglucoside.
The C6-C8 alkyl polyglucoside(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 4%, such as from 3% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Mention may be made, as C9-C14 and/or Ce-C8 alkyl polyglucosides that are very particularly suitable for the invention, of:
- caprylyl/capryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 810 UP® by the company BASF, or under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; and
- decyl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10® par la societe Kao Chemicals, sous la denomination PLANTAREN 2000 UP® or PLANTACARE 2000 UP® by the company BASF, or else under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company SEPPIC.
As mentioned previously, the alkyl polyglucosides are present in a composition according to the invention in contents that make it possible to obtain a weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl poly glucoside to b) Ce-C8 alkyl poly glucoside that is strictly greater than 1, particularly greater than 1.2, more particularly greater than 1.3. It is understood that the weight ratios of the invention are calculated in terms of active material.
Advantageously, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce-C8 alkyl poly glucoside is between 1.1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 5, more particularly between 1 and 2. According to a specific embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as alkyl polyglucosides, a mixture of decyl glucoside and caprylyl/capryl glucoside.
Thus, the present invention relates, according to one of its aspects, to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, comprising at least: i) decyl glucoside; ii) caprylyl/capryl glucoside; and iii) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol;
The weight ratio of i) decyl glucoside to ii) caprylyl/capryl glucoside being strictly greater than 1, particularly greater than 1.2. It is understood that the weight ratios of the invention are calculated in terms of active material. More particularly, the i)/ii) ratio is between 1.1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 5, more particularly between 1 and 2.
The present invention also relates, according to one of its aspects, to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, comprising at least: i) at least one Cs alkyl poly gluco side; ii) at least one C10 alkyl polyglucoside; and iii) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol; the i) Cs alkyl polyglucoside / ii) C10 alkyl polyglucoside weight ratio being strictly greater than 1, particularly greater than 1.1.
C2-C6 alkylene glycol
As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol.
For the purposes of the present invention a "glycol” is intended to denote a diol in which the two hydroxyl groups are borne by different carbon atoms, preferably by vicinal carbon atoms.
Mention may be made, as examples of alkylene glycols that are suitable for the invention, of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the C2-C6 alkylene glycol is chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably propylene glycol. As propylene glycol that is very particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the commercial product sold under the name 1,2-PROPYLENEGLYCOL CARE by the company BASF.
The alkylene glycol(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 60% by weight, in particular from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 15% to 30% by weight, and more preferentially from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fragrancing substance
As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention is more particularly a fragrancing composition.
A composition according to the invention thus preferentially comprises at least one fragrancing substance.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fragrancing substance” means any perfume, odorous starting material or aroma that is capable of giving off a pleasant odour, in particular as defined in the continuation of the text. For the purposes of the present invention, ‘ fragrancing” , “odorous” or “odoriferous” substances are synonymous.
Perfumes are compositions notably containing the starting materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, N.J., 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, N.J., 1960) and in Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991, Allured Publishing Co., Wheaton, III.
A fragranced composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one fragrancing substance chosen from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
They may be natural products, such as essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and/or synthetic products, such as terpene or sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles or peroxides, which may be saturated or unsaturated, and aliphatic or cyclic.
According to the definition given in the international standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the Commission of the European Pharmacopoeia, an essential oil is an odorous product, generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant starting material, either by steam distillation, or by dry distillation, or by an appropriate mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is generally separated from the aqueous phase via a physical process which does not result in any significant change in the composition.
The choice of the method for obtaining essential oils depends mainly on the starting material: its original state and its characteristics, its intrinsic nature. The “essential oil/plant starting material” yield may be extremely variable depending on the plant: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice determines the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, colour, solubility, volatility, and enrichment in or depletion of certain constituents.
Steam distillation corresponds to the vaporization, in the presence of steam, of a sparingly water- miscible substance. The starting material is placed in contact with boiling water or steam in a still. The steam entrains the essential oil vapour, which is condensed in the condenser and recovered as a liquid phase in a florentine vase (or essence jar), where the essential oil is separated from the water by settling. The aqueous distillate that remains after the steam distillation, once the essential oil has been separated, is known as the “aromatic water” or “hydrolate” or “distilled floral water” .
Production by dry distillation consists in obtaining the essential oil by distillation of woods, barks or roots, without addition of water or steam, in a closed chamber designed so that the liquid is recovered at the bottom. Cade oil is the best known example of a product obtained in this way.
The cold expression production method is applied only to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) via mechanical processes at room temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the peels are torn into pieces and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been broken are recovered by a physical process. The conventional process consists in exerting an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit under a stream of water. After removal of the solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial units actually allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of the fruit juices and of the essential oil.
Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature, which distinguishes them from fixed oils. They are more or less coloured and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, distillable with steam, and very sparingly soluble in water.
Among the essential oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families: Abietaceae or Pinaceae, for example conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Annonaceae, for example ylang-ylang; Apiaceae, for example umbellifers, in particular dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot or parsley; Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae, for example yarrow, artemisia, camomile, helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae, for example frankincense; Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Caesalpiniaceae, for example copaifera (copaiba balsam); Chenopodiaceae; Cistaceae, for example rock rose; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae, for example gaultheria (wintergreen); Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae, for example geranium; Guttiferae; Hamamelidaceae; Hemandiaceae; Hypericaceae, for example St- John’s wort; Iridaceae; Juglandaceae; Lamiaceae, for example thyme, oregano, bee balm, savory, basil, marjorams, mints, patchouli, lavenders, sages, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm, Lauraceae, for example ravensara, sweet bay, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea; Liliaceae, for example garlic; Magnoliaceae, for example magnolia; Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae, for example hemp or hop; Myricaceae; Myristicaceae, for example nutmeg; Myrtaceae, for example eucalyptus, tea tree, paperbark tree, cajuput, backhousia, clove, myrtle; Oleaceae; Piperaceae, for example pepper; Pittosporaceae; Poaceae, for example citronella grass, lemongrass, vetiver; Polygonaceae; Ranunculaceae; Rosaceae, for example roses; Rubiaceae; Rutaceae, for example all citrus plants; Salicaceae; Santalaceae, for example sandalwood; Saxifragaceae; Schisandraceae; Styracaceae, for example benzoin; Thymelaeaceae, for example agarwood; Tiliaceae; Valerianaceae, for example valerian, spikenard; Verbenaceae, for example lantana, verbena; Violaceae; Zingiberaceae, for example galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger; Zygophyllaceae.
Mention may also be made of the essential oils extracted from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli), from stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petitgrain), from fruit (coriander, aniseed, cumin, juniper), from fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), from roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, sweet flag, ginger), from wood (pinewood, sandalwood, lignum vitae, pink cedar, camphor), from herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemongrass, sage, thyme), from needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine) and from resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opopanax).
Examples of fragrancing substances are notably: geraniol, geranyl acetate, farnesol, borneol, bornyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzylcarbinol, trichloromethylphenylcarbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vetiveryl acetate, vetiverol, a-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-methyl-3- (p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal, 2-methyl-3-(p-isopropylphenyl)propanal, 3-(p-tert- butylphenyl)propanal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enylcarboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate, 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3- cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4- acetoxy-3-pentyltetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4- heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranylacetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decen-l-ol, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethyl acetal, geranonitrile, citronellonitrile, cedryl acetate, 3-isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone, aubepine nitrile, aubepine, heliotropin, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl ether, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, damascene, ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, cis-3-hexenol and esters thereof, indan musks, tetralin musks, isochroman musks, macrocyclic ketones, macrolactone musks, aliphatic musks and ethylene brassylate, and mixtures thereof.
A fragranced composition according to the invention preferably comprises a fragrancing substance chosen from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of different fragrancing substances that generate in common a note that is pleasant to the user is used.
Thus, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise a mixture of fragrancing substances, in particular of at least two different fragrancing substances. The fragrancing substances will preferably be chosen such that they produce notes (head, heart and base notes) in the following families: citrus, aromatic, floral notes, in particular pink flowers and white flowers, spicy, woody, gourmand, chypre, fougere, leathery, oriental and musk.
These are in particular fragrancing substances that produce notes (head, heart and base notes) chosen from: grapefruit, fig, musks, blackcurrant bud, rose, patchouli, benzoin, blond wood, vanilla, cedarwood, vetiver, tonka bean, orange, sandalwood, geranium, clementine, juniper berry, jasmine, osmanthus and freesia.
For obvious reasons, the amount of fragrancing substance(s) present in a composition according to the invention is able to vary significantly with regard to the odour or the odour intensity sought by its presence.
By way of illustration, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, particularly from 0.001% to 8.0% by weight, more particularly from 0.01% to 5.0% by weight and preferentially from 0.1% to 4.0% by weight of fragrancing substance(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.
Advantageously, a composition according to the invention retains its visual appearance, in particular remains clear, in the presence of contents of fragrancing substances of greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise particularly from 1.0% to 10% by weight of fragrancing substances, more particularly from 1.0% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 2.0% to 4.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The fragrancing substances may be introduced into a composition in accordance with the invention in the form of a perfume concentrate.
The perfume concentrate may be a concrete or an absolute, preferably an absolute.
A composition according to the invention generally comprises at least one aqueous phase and/or at least one oily phase, constituting a cosmetically acceptable medium for incorporating the combination of alkyl polyglucosides according to the invention, the C2-C6 alkylene glycol(s) and optionally one or more fragrancing substances, and thus forming a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, according to the invention. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase, even more preferentially is an aqueous composition, that is to say that it comprises a content of fatty substances, in particular of oil(s), of less than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular of less than or equal to 4% by weight, more particularly of less than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
In the present invention, the term “water-soluble solvent” denotes a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and water-miscible (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in a composition in accordance with the invention, mention may notably be made of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C2-C32 polyols other than the C2-C6 alkylene glycol required according to the invention, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
For the purposes of the present invention, “polyol” means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
A polyol that is suitable for the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
The polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those notably containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, the polyol may be selected for example from pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol. In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 45% to 80% by weight and preferably from 50% to 75% by weight of aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 30% to 70% by weight and preferably from 35% to 65% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Figure imgf000019_0001
When the composition used according to the invention includes an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil, notably a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
An oily phase that is suitable for preparing the compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin. Oils of animal, plant or mineral origin are preferred.
The term "non-volatile” is understood to mean to an oil of which the vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10'3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-0 group.
The term “fluoro oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil” is understood to mean any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10‘3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
Preferably, the oils suitable for the invention are natural.
Advantageously, the fatty substance(s) suitable for the invention are a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, preferably of natural origin, the chains of which comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched C9-C12 alkanes. This mixture is notably known under the INCI name C9-C12 Alkane, CAS 68608-12-8, Vegelight Silk® sold by BioSynthls. This biodegradable volatile oil mixture can be obtained from coconut oil (viscosity of 0.9 to 1.1 mm2/s at 40°C and a flash point at 65 °C).
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains only oils that are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.
More advantageously, the composition contains at least 80% by weight of hydrocarbonbased oils that are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, preferably volatiles, more preferentially chosen from isodecane, decane, Cetiol UT®, VEGELIGHT SILK®, and mixtures thereof.
Thickener
A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one thickener, also sometimes referred to as a gelling agent or viscosity modifier.
In particular, the thickener(s) may be chosen depending on the viscosity desired for the composition, in particular in order to give the composition a gel-type texture. They are therefore more particularly advantageous for the formulation of compositions in the form of gels, such as shower gels.
The thickeners may be synthetic, natural or of natural origin, preferably natural or of natural origin.
Such thickeners may more particularly be selected from natural polymers or polymers of natural origin, in particular of plant origin.
These gelling agents are preferably hydrophilic, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water.
Advantageously, the thickener(s) are selected from modified or native polysaccharides, in particular modified or unmodified starches, fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate -based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gums arabic, sclerotium gum, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, konjac gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and non-ionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the thickener(s) may be chosen from alginates, in particular sodium, potassium or ammonium alginates, carrageenans, modified or unmodified starches, in particular those derived, for example, from cereal plants such as wheat, maize or rice, gums arabic, in particular acacia gum or gum arabic derived from the Acacia Senegal tree, xanthan gum, cellulose modified by esterification or etherification, in particular carboxymethyl cellulose or cellulose gum, and mixtures thereof, more particularly Acacia Senegal gum and xanthan gum and mixture thereof, more preferably xanthan gum. Advantageously, the thickener(s) suitable for the invention are chosen from xanthan gum, acacia gum, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the thickness is a xanthan gum. Xanthan gum advantageously makes it possible to obtain a composition having an optimal clarity, while enabling good thickening of the composition containing it.
According to another embodiment, the thickness is a mixture of xanthan gum and acacia gum, in particular in a xanthan gum/acacia gum weight ratio ranging from 0.5 to 1.5, in particular from 1.0 to 1.5.
The thickener(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 4.5% by weight, in particular from 0.3% to 4.0% by weight, more particularly from 0.4% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the thickener(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 0.9% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 0.7% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 0.6% by weight, more particularly from 0.3% to 0.5% by weight, preferably in a content of 0.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
A composition according to the invention may have a viscosity, measured at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.01 Pa.s to 3.0 Pa.s.
Preferably, the viscosity may be measured with a type 2 mobile (shear gradient 70 s'1).
More particularly, a composition according to the invention may have a viscosity, measured at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.120 Pa.s to 0.500 Pa.s, preferably from 0.130 Pa.s to 0.400 Pa.s, more preferably from 0.135 Pa.s to 0.300 Pa.s, better from 0.140 Pa.s to 0.250 Pa.s, even better from 0.146 Pa.s to 0.226 Pa.s.
The viscosity may be measured using a Rheomat RM 180® rheometer or a Rheomat RM 100®, at a rotational speed of 200 over 10 minutes. The value obtained in deflection units (DU) is then converted into Pa.s.
Additional surfactants
A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional surfactant, different from the alkyl polyglucosides required according to the invention.
The surfactants may be chosen from non-ionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pages 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.
Amphoteric surfactant
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant.
Examples of amphoteric surfactants which are suitable for the invention are especially selected form betaines, preferably selected from alkyl betaines, in particular lauryl betaine, N-alkylamido betaines and derivatives thereof, in particular coc amidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropy betaine and N-disodium N-carboxy ethoxy ethyl N-cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate; sultaines, in particular cocoyl amidopropylhydroxy sultaine; and mixtures thereof.
Among the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (Cs-C2o)alkyl betaines such as coco betaine (also referred to as cocoyl betaine), N-(Cs-C2o)alkylamido(C3- Cs)alkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the amphoteric surfactants is coco betaine.
The amphoteric surfactant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Non-ionic surfactant
The non-ionic surfactants may especially be selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and poly alkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention does not comprise any non-ionic surfactants other than the alkyl polyglucosides required according to the invention.
Anionic surfactant
The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C10-C30 and especially C16-C25 fatty acids, in particular metal stearates and behenates, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a content of sulfate- type surfactant(s) of less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferentially less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is free of sulfate-type surfactant.
In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises a content of anionic surfactant(s) of less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferentially less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is free of anionic surfactant. Cationic surfactant
The cationic surfactants may be chosen from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts such as (Ci2-30-alkyl)-tri(Ci-4- alkyl) ammonium halides such as N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride).
Silicone surfactant
The composition may also comprise at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, as non-ionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, mention may be made of dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate, and as non-ionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, mention may be made of the cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol mixture.
The additional surfactant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 1.0% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preservatives
A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one preservative.
The term “preservative” or “preserving agent” means any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable compound which can prevent microbial growth (or the growth of microorganisms) which may take place in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, from the moment of their preparation, while they are in storage and up to the time of their conventional use by consumers. Preserving agents that may notably be mentioned include the preserving agents described in Cosmetics, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology. John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Martin M. Rieger; 5.2 preservatives & table 3, 04/12/2000, https://doi.org/10.1002/0471238961.0315191318090507.a01.
As examples of preserving agents that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid, also known as parabens (in particular methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde releasers, for instance imidazolidinylurea or diazolidinylurea, chlorhexidine digluconate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal benzoates, such as sodium benzoate, caprylyl glycol, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, pentylene glycol, alkyltrimethylammonium bromide such as myristyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTFA name: Myrtrimonium bromide), dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal benzoates, in particular alkali metal benzoates, such as sodium benzoate.
The preserving agent(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, notably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and in particular ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight. pH adjuster
The composition according to the invention may have a pH of between 3 and 10, and preferentially between 5 and 7, more particularly between 4.5 and 4.9. This pH may be adjusted by means of pH-adjusting compounds, in particular acidifying and basifying agents conventionally used in the cosmetic field. Preferably, the pH of the composition according to the invention is adjusted to a pH of 4.7 +/- 0.2.
Among the pH adjusters, mention may be made of mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, which are optionally hydroxylated, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids, preferably the acid(s) is(are) organic(s), more preferably chosen from (Ci- C6)alkyl(poly)carboxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and more preferably citric acid.
Mention may be made, among the basifying agents, by way of example, of aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and preferably carboxylic acids such as citric acid.
The adjustment of the content of the pH adjusters falls within the general competence of those skilled in the art, notably with regard to the surfactant present in the composition.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more mineral or organic acid(s), in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 0.6%, such as 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A composition according to the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants customary in the cosmetics field, such as agents for preventing hair loss, oxidizing agents, vitamins and provitamins, sunscreens, colorants, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, plasticizers, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fixing polymers, fillers, propellants, and mixtures thereof.
The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.
Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional compounds to be added to a composition according to the inventions such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition(s).
As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention preferably does not contain any controversial ingredients, in particular with a negative impact on the environment and/or health.
According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of sulfates.
According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of 1,4-dioxane.
More preferentially, it is free of sulfates and 1,4-dioxane.
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "free of” is understood to mean that the composition comprises less than 1.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, or indeed comprises none at all of the compound targeted by the exemption.
More preferentially, a composition according to the invention comprises, or even consists of: a) 0.5% to 10% by weight of at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) 0.5% to 5% by weight of at least one Ce-Cs alkyl poly glucoside; c) 6.0% to 35% by weight of at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol; d) 0.1% to 4.0% by weight of at least one fragrancing substance; e) 1.0% to 25% by weight of at least one adjuvant chosen from thickeners, additional surfactants, preservatives, pH adjusters, and mixtures thereof; and f) the remainder being water and/or a water-soluble solvent other than a C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1, in particular between 1.1 and 2.5, the contents being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition.
Intended use of the composition
As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.
A composition according to the invention may be in any presentation form conventionally used in the cosmetic field according to the intended applications, in particular for topical application.
In particular, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel, in particular in the form of a clear gel, preferably an aqueous gel.
A composition according to the invention may be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art for the formulation of cosmetic compositions for the care and hygiene of keratin materials, in particular of shower gel type.
It is within the competence of a person skilled in the art to adapt the conditions for preparing a composition according to the invention.
A composition according to the invention may be used on any keratin material, notably as a hygiene product, for example as a product for cleansing and/or removing makeup from the skin, mucus membranes and/or hair, in particular as a product for cleansing and/or removing makeup from the skin.
It may be, for example, a cleansing or make-up removing cream, a shower or bath product, a shampoo and conditioner, a shaving product, a rinse-off mask, or else an exfoliating product (also refer to as a desquamating products), both for the face and for the body or for the hands, after addition of exfoliating particles, preferably it is a shower or bath product, such as a shower gel. A composition according to the invention is more particularly useful for cleansing and/or removing make up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, scalp and/or hair, more particularly the skin.
One subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention as defined above.
Typically, a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and/or hair and then rinsed with water.
Thus, one subject of the invention is a cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials, comprising at least the steps of:
(i) applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention as defined above, and
(ii) rinsing off the composition applied in step (i), in particular with water.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as mass percentages.
Examples
Measurement and evaluation methods
A first method of evaluating the stability is carried out by observation of the composition over time. To do this, the compositions introduced into a 250 ml beaker and placed in a lightbox, for example of Basic Color Viewing Light type from Just Normlicht, illuminated by a light that simulates daylight or the light typically found in a shop, and photographed before and after storage for 2 months at different temperatures: at 4°C, at ambient temperature (approximately 20°C), at 37°C and at 45°C.
The instability may be detected by evaluating salting out, creaming, coalescence, formation of a film at the surface, marbling, etc.
Variations in texture, appearance, colour and odour may also be evaluated.
Another method of evaluating the stability is carried out by measuring the viscosity.
The viscosity of the product is measured with a Rheomat 100 RM 180 viscometer from Lamy Rheology according to the CID-012-02 method. The measurement of the torque needed to overcome the resistance of the fluid whose viscosity it is desired to determine is carried out using a submerged element (spindle or measuring body) rotating at a chosen and constant speed (5 rpm). The measurement is performed with a product to be analyzed/cup/measuring body assembly at 25°C.
The spindle used to carry out the measurements is chosen depending on the viscosity of the product to be analyzed:
- Ml: lotion;
- M2: fluid milk;
- M3: cream, thick milk; and/or
- M4: thick cream, preferably M2 and M3.
The results are expressed in deviation units (DU). The standard deviation is ± 5 DU for viscosity values of less than or equal to 50 DU and ± 7 DU for viscosity values of greater than 50.
Example 1
Compositions II to 14 according to the invention are prepared using the weight proportions as described in detail in Table 1 below.
The values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Table 1]
Figure imgf000029_0001
Figure imgf000030_0001
(*) Perfume characterized by notes of grapefruit, fig and musks;
Perfume characterized by notes of blackcurrant bud, rose, patchouli, benzoin, blond wood and vanilla;
Perfume characterized by notes of vanilla, cedarwood, vetiver and tonka bean;
Perfume characterized by notes of orange, sandalwood and geranium;
Perfume characterized by notes of clementine, juniper berry and vetiver; and Perfume characterized by notes of jasmine, patchouli, osmanthus andfreesia.
(**) Mixture of Cs/Cio/Ciz/C alkyl polyglucosides in a weight ratio of 34%, 24%, 29% and 10% respectively.
Preparation of the compositions
The ingredients of phase A are weighed out and homogenized until dispersion of the benzoate is formed with turbomixer and paddles at a temperature of between 20°C and 30°C. The ingredients of phase B are introduced and stirred until a homogeneous gel is obtained. The ingredients of phase D are mixed together separately, and introduced with stirring after verification of a good dispersion of the xanthan. After homogenisation, phase C is added and the pH is adjusted.
Optionally, the perfume(s) of phase E is (are) introduced and homogenized at a temperature between 20°C and 30°C.
The pH is adjusted to a value between 4.5 and 4.9 if necessary, by addition of citric acid or sodium hydroxide.
Compositions II to 14 according to the invention are clear and have a pleasant odour. These compositions retain their visual appearance and their organoleptic properties over time, in particular after 1 day to 6 months, more particularly after 1 week to 4 months at ambient temperature. Moreover, the compositions have a satisfactory rheology, even after two months at 45 °C. The compositions of the invention remain stable even after several weeks, even months, at ambient temperature (after two months at 45 °C). There is no visible change, especially in terms of rheology and odour.
Example 2
Compositions 15 and 16 are prepared using the weight proportions as described in detail in Table 2 below.
The values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Table 2]
Figure imgf000031_0001
(*) Perfume characterized by notes of grapefruit, fig and musks;
Perfume characterized by notes of blackcurrant bud, rose, patchouli, benzoin, blond wood and vanilla;
Perfume characterized by notes of vanilla, cedarwood, vetiver and tonka bean;
Perfume characterized by notes of orange, sandalwood and geranium;
Perfume characterized by notes of clementine, juniper berry and vetiver; and
Perfume characterized by notes of jasmine, patchouli, osmanthus andfreesia.
(**) Mixture of Cs/Cio/Ciz/C alkyl polyglucosides in a weight ratio of 34%, 24%, 29% and 10% respectively.
Compositions 15 and 16 are clear.
However, composition 15 has a suitable rheology which is in the form of a light gel, compared to composition 16 which is too liquid. This was confirmed by rheology measurements performed at a temperature of 25°C and under atmospheric pressure with a LAMY Rheology Instrument type RM 100®, mobile type 2.
With a reomat rotating at 200 rpm, the viscosity is 186 mPa.s for composition 15 (mobile 2
- shear rate 70 s'1). For the composition 16, the viscosity is significantly lower, namely 114 mPa.s (mobile 2 - shear gradient 70 s'1).
It also appears that even after several days, or even several weeks, at a temperature between 20°C and 30°C, composition 15 has not changed its appearance, and has not gained in mass, whereas composition 16 is still too liquid (almost zero viscosity).
Finally, there is no change in odor for composition 15, even after several says (one week).

Claims

32 Claims
1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, notably a fragranced composition, comprising at least: a) at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) at least one Ce-Cs alkyl poly gluco side; and c) at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol, the weight ratio of a) C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside to b) Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside being strictly greater than 1.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside is a mixture of several C9-C14 alkyl polyglucosides, in particular comprising at least one C10 alkyl polyglucoside, at least one C12 alkyl polyglucoside and at least one C14 alkyl poly gluco side.
3. Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, in which the C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1.5% to 8% by weight, such as from 4.5% to 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the Ce- Cs alkyl polyglucoside comprises at least one Cs alkyl poly gluco side.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the Ce- Cs alkyl polyglucoside(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 4%, such as from 3% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the C2- C<> alkylene glycol is chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably propylene glycol.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkylene glycol(s) are present in a content ranging from 2% to 60% by weight, in particular from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 15% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 33
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one fragrancing substance, preferably in a content ranging from 1.0% to 10% by weight of fragrancing substances, more particularly from 1.0% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 2.0% to 4.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one aqueous phase, in particular comprising water and optionally at least one polyol chosen from pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, poly glycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one thickener, in particular chosen from alginates, in particular sodium, potassium or ammonium alginates, carrageenans, modified or unmodified starches, in particular those derived, for example, from cereal plants such as wheat, maize or rice, gums arabic, in particular acacia gum or gum arabic derived from the Acacia Senegal tree, xanthan gum, cellulose modified by esterification or etherification, in particular carboxymethyl cellulose or cellulose gum, and mixtures thereof, more particularly chosen from Acacia Senegal gum and xanthan gum and mixture thereof, and more preferably xanthan gum.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one thickener in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 4.5% by weight, in particular from 0.3% to 4.0% by weight, more particularly from 0.4% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular in a content ranging from 0.05% to 0.9% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 0.7% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 0.6% by weight, more particularly from 0.3% to 0.5% by weight, preferably in a content of 0.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional surfactant, different from the C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside and from the Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside, in particular chosen from amphoteric surfactants, more preferentially chosen from (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, in particular coco betaine, N-(Cs- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines, in particular cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one preservative, in particular chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal benzoates, more particularly sodium benzoate.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one mineral or organic acid, for example hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, which are optionally hydroxylated, for example acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids, preferably the acid(s) is(are) organic(s), more preferably chosen from (Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and more preferably citric acid.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one mineral or organic acid, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 0.6%, such as 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, that is in the form of a gel, in particular a clear gel, preferably an aqueous gel.
17. Use a) of at least one C9-C14 alkyl polyglucoside; b) of at least one Ce-Cs alkyl polyglucoside; and c) of at least one C2-C6 alkylene glycol; the weight ratio of a) C9- C14 alkyl poly glucoside to b) Ce-Cs alkyl poly glucoside being strictly greater than 1, as solubilizers for at least one fragrancing substance in a composition, preferably in a cosmetic composition, said fragrancing substance being in particular present at a content of greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
18. Cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 16.
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DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 15 April 2014 (2014-04-15), ANONYMOUS: "South Sea Dream Bath Salt", XP055953996, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/2356915/ Database accession no. 2356915 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 29 July 2020 (2020-07-29), ANONYMOUS: "Caring & Fresh Shower Gel", XP055953990, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/7990509/ Database accession no. 7990509 *
KIRK-OTHMER: "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", vol. 22, 1979, JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC., article "Cosmetics", pages: 333 - 432
S. ARCTANDER, PERFUME AND FLAVOR CHEMICALS, 1969
S. ARCTANDER, PERFUME AND FLAVOR MATERIALS OF NATURAL ORIGIN, 1960

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