WO2023073550A1 - Système et régime à base d'oxydant et d'acide pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau - Google Patents

Système et régime à base d'oxydant et d'acide pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023073550A1
WO2023073550A1 PCT/IB2022/060237 IB2022060237W WO2023073550A1 WO 2023073550 A1 WO2023073550 A1 WO 2023073550A1 IB 2022060237 W IB2022060237 W IB 2022060237W WO 2023073550 A1 WO2023073550 A1 WO 2023073550A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin
component
acid
weight
chemical peel
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2022/060237
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Rebecca Chen
Anne-Laure Bernard
I-Chien Liao
Xi Yan
Rebecca BARRESI
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from US17/514,646 external-priority patent/US20230136806A1/en
Priority claimed from FR2200550A external-priority patent/FR3132018A1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2023073550A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023073550A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • the present invention is generally directed to a cosmetic system for enhancing skin appearance, including improving visual skin brightness and smoothness, minimizing pore appearance, and reducing the appearance fine lines and wrinkles, and a skin-enhancing regimen and article of manufacture for using the cosmetic skin-enhancing system.
  • the skin-enhancing system is especially suited for application to skin anywhere on the body, particularly on facial skin, in some particular embodiments, generally avoiding the skin under and around the eyes.
  • the hydroxy acid in the chemical peel component further comprises at least one poly-hydroxy acid present from about 4% to about 15% by weight, based upon the total weight of the chemical peel component.
  • the at least one poly- hydroxy acid comprises gluconolactone.
  • the chemical peel component includes two or more hydroxy acids selected from the group consisting of alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, poly- hydroxy acids, and combinations thereof.
  • FIG. 4 shows the clinical grading results of skin brightness at different time points according to the clinical study
  • FIG. 5 shows the clinical grading results of pore appearance at different time points according to the clinical study
  • Each of the oxidizing component and the chemical peel component can be provided in a form that is rinse off, or a leave on.
  • the oxidizing component may be used in a creamy emulsion form, for example as a rinse-off mask or as a leave-on moisturizer, or in a flowable leave-on toner
  • the chemical peel component can likewise be a rinse-off mask, or as a leave-on moisturizer, or in a flowable leave-on toner.
  • one of the components is a rinse off and the other is a leave on.
  • both of the components is a rinse off, or both of the components is a leave on.
  • the inventors have shown in a clinical study employing an inventive skin- enhancing regimen that there is more rapid improvement in, brightness, pore appearance, visual skin smoothness, and global facial fine lines and wrinkles, as compared with daily use of the chemical peel component alone.
  • the inventors have shown that there is detectable improvement in brightness as early as 3 days after starting the regimen, and detectable improvement in global facial fine lines when the aforementioned regimen is followed for fourteen days.
  • the inventors have also shown that there is a greater improvement in brightness and global facial fine lines when the aforementioned the skin-enhancing regimen is followed for at least one month.
  • the study involved an application cycle of the skin-enhancing regimen including a twice per week application of a rinse off mask form of the oxidizing component and a daily application of a leave-on emulsion moisturizer form of chemical peel component.
  • a skin- enhancing regimen includes application of the chemical peel component at least two or more times, and up to daily applications for a week or more, and application, of the oxidizing component at least one time, and up to -twice a week applications.
  • the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system includes an oxidizing agent, for example, hydrogen peroxide.
  • the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system also includes one or more additional ingredients, including water, at least one oil, at least one chelator, and may further include one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of one or more water based solvents, one or more surfactants, one or more thickeners, and one or more additional ingredients selected from, but not limited to, pH adjusters, active components, humectants, antioxidants, plant extracts, plant oils and butters, fragrances, pearlescent agents, odor absorbers, coloring materials, essential oils, vitamins, antimicrobials and preservatives, and combinations of these.
  • the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system is a creamy emulsion form that may be thick or liquidous (flowable).
  • the composition may include an oxidizing agent comprising hydrogen peroxide, one or a combination of chelating agents including tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, tetrasodium phosphate, one or a combination of phosphoric acid and sodium phosphate, a combination of surfactants including steareth-2 and steareth-20, one or more polymers including sclerotium gum, one or more vitamin actives, one or more preservatives, and water present in an amount from about 35% to about 75%, by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing component.
  • amount of oxidizing agent present in the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system can range from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1.0% to about 5%, from about 1.0% to about 4.0%, from 1.5% to about 4.5%, or about 4% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub- range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • amount of oxidizing agent present in the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system can range from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1.0% to about 5%, from about 1.0% to about 4.0%, from 1.5% to about 4.5%, or about 4% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub- range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • At least one oxidizing agent may be present, by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system, each present from about 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.5, 6.0, 6.5, 7.0, 7.5, 8.0, 8.5, 9.0, 9.5, to about 10 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • a skin-brightening cosmetic composition comprises at least one oil selected from C6-C16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and/or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones, and combinations thereof.
  • the at least one oil includes mineral oil, squalene, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, silicone oil, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, or combinations thereof.
  • the oil includes one or more of hemisqualane, dimethicone, squalane and combinations thereof.
  • the oil is present in an amount that is not less than about 20%, or about 50%, based upon the total weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • the oil is present in an amount that is not less than about 20%, or about 50%, based upon the total weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • two or more oils are present.
  • one or more oils are present wherein at least one is an oxidation resistant oil.
  • one or more solvent is present in the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • the solvent present in the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system includes, but is not limited to, water, alcohol, propylene glycol, or combinations thereof. Although these solvents are given as an example, it will be appreciated that other solvents compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used.
  • the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing systems comprise from about 1 to about 95% by weight of water, with respect to the total weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • the amount of water in the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system can range from about 1 to about 70%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system includes at least one nonionic surfactant. In some embodiments, the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system includes two or more surfactants, and in some such embodiments, at least one surfactant has a low HLB (about 5) and at least one surfactant has a high HLB (about 15).
  • Exemplary oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants include, but are not limited to: oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30 amides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols, polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol, saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils, condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as a mixture.
  • a composition includes two or more of non-ionic surfactants selected from oxyethylenated C8-C30 alcohols, polyoxyethylenated linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 acid esters, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol esters.
  • the at least one surfactant is present in the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system. In some embodiments, the at least one surfactant is present in the oxidizing component of the skin- enhancing system in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 3.5% by weight, including increments and ranges therein and there between, based upon the total weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • one or more surfactants can be present in the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system, and in some embodiments, each surfactant may be present from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.5% to about 1.8%, from about 0.5 to about 1.25%, and from about 0.5 to about 0.8%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • one or a combination of surfactants may be present, by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system, each one or the combination present from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, to about 15 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • one or more other components can be present in the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system from about 0.05% to about 50% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 15% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2%, from about 0.25 to about 1.5%, and from about 0.25 to about 0.5%, or any suitable combination, sub- combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • suitable combination, sub- combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight based on the weight of the oxidizing component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system may include a concentration of poly hydroxy acid in a range from about 4% to about 15%, or from about 8% to about 14% or from about 9% to about 13%, or from about 10% to about 12%, or is about 10%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • concentration of poly hydroxy acid in a range from about 4% to about 15%, or from about 8% to about 14% or from about 9% to about 13%, or from about 10% to about 12%, or is about 10%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • the amount of poly hydroxy acid present is not more than about 10%.
  • Phenylethyl resorcinol functions a tyrosinase inhibitor.
  • the phenylethyl resorcinol when utilized in the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system effectively whiten skin and reduce skin tone unevenness. Phenylethyl resorcinol has not shown adverse effects in basic toxicological tests, including acute oral toxicity, mutagenicity, skin irritation, skin sensitization, and phototoxicity.
  • the chemical peel component in an emulsion form may include one or more oils selected from the group consisting of C12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, and combinations thereof.
  • the chemical peel component includes coco- caprylate/caprate, C15-19 alkane, dodecane and combinations thereof.
  • the chemical peel component in a toner form may include one or more oils selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, macadamia ternifolia seed oil, squalane, and combinations thereof.
  • the oil is generally immiscible in water, and may be selected from hydrocarbons, silicones, fatty alcohols, glycols and vegetable oils.
  • the oil may include one or a combination of polar and non-polar oil.
  • the oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils from plants or of plant origin, mineral oil, ester oils, fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and combinations thereof.
  • an oil may be chosen from purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), squalane, hemisqualane, isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laur
  • the oil is chosen from C13-15 alkane (hemisqualane), dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, dimethicone, squalane, and mineral oil.
  • the oil comprises one or a combination of C13-15 alkane (hemisqualane), dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, dimethicone, squalane, and mineral oil.
  • the oil in the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system includes isopropyl myristate.
  • additional oil when present, in the chemical peel component is at present from about 1% to about 20%.
  • the chemical peel component may include more than one oil, such as a mixture of oils wherein one or the mixture of oils is present in an amount that alone or combined is present from about 1% to about 20% by weight based on the weight of the chemical peel component, and wherein the total amount of additional oil is present up to about 20% of the chemical peel component.
  • the chemical peel component may comprise at least one plant butter, the at least one butter selected from the group consisting of butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, almond butter, aloe butter, apricot kernel butter, avocado butter, coconut cream butter, cupuacu butter, dhupu butter, hemp butter, jojoba butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter and combinations thereof.
  • the at least one butter selected from the group consisting of butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, almond butter, aloe butter, apricot kernel butter, avocado butter, coconut cream butter, cupuacu butter, dhupu butter, hemp butter, jojoba butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter and combinations thereof.
  • the amount of butter present in the chemical peel component may be at least 1%, alternatively from about 1% to about 10%; alternatively, from about 2% to about 9%, alternatively from about 3% to about 8%, alternatively from about 4% to about 7%, alternatively from about 5% to about 6%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component.
  • the amount of butter present in the chemical peel component may be at least 1%, alternatively from about 1% to about 10%; alternatively, from about 2% to about 9%, alternatively from about 3% to about 8%, alternatively from about 4% to about 7%, alternatively from about 5% to about 6%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component.
  • water is present in the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system in a range from about 20% to about 80%, or from about 30% to about 60%, or from about 35% to about 50%, or from about 45% to about 49%, or from about 60% to about 80%, or from about 65% to about 75%, or any suitable combination, sub- combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • a range from about 20% to about 80%, or from about 30% to about 60%, or from about 35% to about 50%, or from about 45% to about 49%, or from about 60% to about 80%, or from about 65% to about 75%, or any suitable combination, sub- combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • water is present in the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system in a range from about 20% to about 80%, or from about 30% to about 60%, or from about 35% to about 50%, or from about 45% to about 49%%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • water is present in the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system in a range from about 20% to about 80%, or from about 60% to about 80%, or from about 65% to about 75%%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • water is present in the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system in a range from about 20% to about 80%, or from about 60% to about 80%, or from about 65% to about 75%%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • water is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system, from about 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59 to about 60 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • water is present in the chemical peel component in a range from about 40% to about 60%, or from about 45% to about 55%, or from about 48% to about 50%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component.
  • a range from about 40% to about 60%, or from about 45% to about 55%, or from about 48% to about 50%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component.
  • the pH can be adjusted to the desired value by addition of a base (organic or inorganic) to the chemical peel component , for example ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or alternatively by addition of an inorganic or organic acid, advantageously a carboxylic acid, such as, for example, citric acid.
  • a base organic or inorganic
  • a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine
  • an inorganic or organic acid advantageously a carboxylic acid, such as, for example, citric acid.
  • the chemical peel component includes one or more water based solvents selected from the group consisting of glycols, for example, glycerin and pentylene glycol, alcohols for solubilizing acid, for example, monoalcohols such as monohydric C 1 -C 8 alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, and combinations thereof.
  • the water based solvents include glycerin and pentylene glycol.
  • glycerin is present in a range from about 5% to about 20%.
  • the amount of alcohol present in the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system is in the range from about 5% to about 20%, or from about 6% to about 18%, or from about 10% to about 15%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • the amount of alcohol present in the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system is in the range from about 5% to about 20%, or from about 6% to about 18%, or from about 10% to about 15%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system includes one or more surfactants.
  • the chemical peel component includes a blend of surfactants comprising at least stearic acid, polysorbate 20, glyceryl stearate (and) peg-100 stearate, cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20, and glyceryl stearate.
  • surfactants are selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants, and non-ionic surfactants.
  • the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system comprises one surfactant, or a blend of surfactants that comprises two or more surfactants selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, and combinations thereof.
  • the blend of two or more surfactants comprises surfactants that are selected from only one of anionic surfactants, amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants.
  • the blend of two or more surfactants comprises surfactants that are selected from at least two of anionic surfactants, amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the blend of surfactants comprises only two surfactants. In some embodiments, the blend of surfactants comprises three or more surfactants.
  • anionic surfactants may be selected from, for example, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alkyl succinates, fatty acyl taurates, fatty acyl
  • the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system can include at least one thickener.
  • the chemical peel component comprises two or more thickeners.
  • the chemical peel component includes one or a combination of thickeners selected from the group consisting of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and combinations thereof.
  • the chemical peel component includes aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, xanthan gum, and hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
  • the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system includes one or more thickeners for a water-based system, selected from, for example, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates copolymer, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium acrylates copolymer (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride, carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl guar, carrageenan, ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 and combinations thereof.
  • the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system comprises two or more thickeners.
  • the total amount of thickener present in the composition is at least about 3%, or about 4%, or about 10% or more, or in an amount from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 10%, or from about 3% to about 5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component.
  • the total amount of thickener present in the composition is at least about 3%, or about 4%, or about 10% or more, or in an amount from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 10%, or from about 3% to about 5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the chemical peel component.
  • one or more thickener in the chemical peel component when present, is present by weight, based on the total weight of the chemical peel component, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, to about 15 percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • each of the oxidizing and chemical peel components of the skin-enhancing system may further include additional ingredients, generally including, but not limited to, chelating agents, pH adjusters, active components, humectants, antioxidants, plant extracts, plant oils and butters, fragrances, pearlescent agents, odor absorbers, coloring materials, essential oils, vitamins, antimicrobials and preservatives, and combinations of these.
  • additional ingredients generally including, but not limited to, chelating agents, pH adjusters, active components, humectants, antioxidants, plant extracts, plant oils and butters, fragrances, pearlescent agents, odor absorbers, coloring materials, essential oils, vitamins, antimicrobials and preservatives, and combinations of these.
  • additional ingredients generally including, but not limited to, chelating agents, pH adjusters, active components, humectants, antioxidants, plant extracts, plant oils and butters, fragrances, pearlescent agents, odor absorbers, coloring materials, essential oils, vitamins, antimicrobials and preservatives, and combinations of these
  • one or a combination of chelating agents may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the skin-enhancing system, each one or the combination present from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 up to about 2 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • additives may include one or a combination of antimicrobial agents and their salts, selected from, for example, chlorphenesin, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, caprylhydroxamic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, benzalkonium chloride, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, piroctone olamine, hexyl glycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, octylglycerin, benzylglycerin, 3-heptoyl-2,2-propandiol, and 1,2-hexandiol, and pentylene glycol, and combinations thereof.
  • antimicrobial agents and their salts selected from, for example, chlorphenesin, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, caprylhydroxamic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, benzalkonium chlor
  • there may be one or more other additives present in the skin- enhancing system the other components selected from, fillers such as clays; talc; powders, including spherical/silica powders and mineral powders; carbohydrate based gellifying agents; organic thickeners with for instance, anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners and combinations thereof; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; opacifiers and combinations thereof.
  • fillers such as clays; talc; powders, including spherical/silica powders and mineral powders; carbohydrate based gellifying agents; organic thickeners with for instance, anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners and combinations thereof; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; opacifiers and combinations thereof.
  • one or more additives in any of the components are selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, tocopherol, hydrogen peroxide, chlorophenesin, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, bisabolol, sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, tocopherol, sodium hyaluronate, propanediol, hydrogen peroxide, and combinations thereof.
  • the number of additives present in the skin-enhancing system can range from about 0 to about 50%, from about 0.5 to about 30%, from about 1.5 to about 20%, and from about 5 to about 15%, or any suitable combination, sub- combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing component or the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • one or more other additives such as preservatives, vitamins, preservatives, and the like, alone or in combination, can be present in one or both of the oxidizing component and the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system from about 0.05 to about 50% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 25% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10%, from about 0.25% to about 5%, and from about 0.5 to about 3.5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing component or the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system.
  • one or a combination of optional additives may be present in one or both of the oxidizing component and the chemical peel component of the skin-enhancing system, by weight, based on the weight of the oxidizing component or the chemical peel component of the skin- enhancing system, each one or the combination present from about 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 00.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49 to about 50 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • an article of manufacture for the skin- enhancing system comprising at least first and second separately contained compositions, the first composition comprising an oxidizing component, comprising at least one oxidizing agent and water, and the second composition comprising chemical peel component comprising at least one hydroxy-acid and water, wherein the first and second compositions are contained to be separately dispensed for application to skin, in any order, and wherein the skin-enhancing system may be used according to any one of a number of possible application cycles of the skin- enhancing regimen wherein the oxidizing component is used in conjunction with the chemical peel component, applied in sequence, once or, or more frequently, with applications of at least one of the components on a daily basis for a few or several days.
  • each of the oxidizing component and the chemical peel component is provided in a form that is rinse off or leave on and is selected from the group consisting of a suspension, an emulsion cream, a serum, an essence, a gel, and a toner.
  • the article of manufacture comprises the first and second compositions each separately contained in a multi-use container.
  • the article of manufacture comprises the first and second compositions each separately contained as single units in a plurality of single use containers.
  • each of the first and second compositions is contained as one of a mask, liquid, stick, spray, ointment, paste, foam, mousse, shaving cream, wipe, patch, strip, or film-forming product.
  • the skincare formulation may be disposed in a first compartment of a sachet and the application surface may be a surface of a second compartment of the sachet, and wherein the first compartment and the second compartment are fluid ica lly separated by a breakable barrier.
  • a component of the skin-enhancing system may be coupled to an application surface of an applicator.
  • the application surface may be a surface of a mask configured to conform to a face of a wearer.
  • the application surface may be selected from the group consisting of a bristle surface of a brush, a roller surface of a rolling applicator, and a blade surface of a spatula.
  • the article of manufacture may be a packet with separate packages or chambers separated by a frangible seal between the chambers. In use, the seal is broken by the user to contact the separately packaged sub compositions and dispense them for application onto the skin.
  • the article of manufacture may be a tube with dual chambers.
  • the article of manufacture may be a dual- chamber pump.
  • the packaging for one or both components can be a single container holding a suspension of encapsulated material that is mixed/broken to disperse and mix. And in yet other embodiments, the packaging is otherwise sufficient to retain the each of the components until it is intended to be applied to keratinous tissue.
  • the one or both of the first and second parts may be delivered by spray application, or other applicator selected from a pump, or brush.
  • a component of the skin-enhancing system may be suitable for direct application, or for forming a mask, from form that is a suspension, lotion, cream, serum, essence, gel, stick, spray, ointment, paste, foam, mousse, cream, wipe, patch, strip, film-forming product.
  • the invention also provides, in various embodiments, a regimen for enhancing skin using oxidizer and acid application components, comprising applyingto a region of skin excluding areas of skin around an eye (a) a first composition comprising an oxidizing component that includes an oxidizing agent and water; and (b) a second composition comprising a chemical peel component that includes one or a combination of hydroxy-acids and water, wherein the first and second compositions are applied sequentially, in any order.
  • the oxidizing component is applied first, followed by the chemical peel component, and in other embodiments, the chemical peel component is applied first, followed by the oxidizing component.
  • the regimen may be selected from one or a combination of application cycles.
  • step (b) is repeated once daily, over a plurality of days.
  • step (a) is repeated once every third, fourth or fifth day and wherein step (b) is skipped on the days that step (a) is repeated.
  • step (a) is repeated once every third, fourth or fifth day and step (b) is skipped on the days that step (a) is repeated.
  • step (a) is repeated once every third, fourth or fifth day and step (b) is skipped on the days that step (a) is repeated.
  • the oxidizing component is applied first, followed by the chemical peel component, and thereafter, on days 2, 3 and 4, the chemical peel component is applied each day, and on day 5 the oxidizing component is applied followed by the chemical peel component, and then on days 6 and 7 the chemical peel cream is applied.
  • the oxidizing component is applied first, followed optionally by the chemical peel component, and thereafter, on days 2-7, the chemical peel component is applied each day.
  • a third embodiment of a regimen cycle on day 1, the oxidizing component is applied first, and thereafter, on days 2, 3 and 4, the chemical peel component is applied each day, and on day 5 the oxidizing component is applied, and then on days 6 and 7 the chemical peel cream is applied.
  • regimen cycles are possible and the foregoing examples are not limiting.
  • the regimen is practiced for at least one day.
  • the regimen is practiced for at least three days, with at least one application of at least one component on each day. In some embodiments, the regimen is practiced for at least three or more days, with at least one application of at least one component over the time period, wherein one or more days may not include application of any component.
  • the regimen is practiced for at least 28 days, with at least one application of at least one component on each day. In some embodiments, the regimen is practiced for at least 28 days, with at least one application of at least one component over the time period, wherein one or more days may not include application of any component.
  • a component of the skin-enhancing system is applied to the keratinous tissue, for example skin of the body or face, in some particular embodiments on the face and generally excluding the eye area, at a temperature of about 15 °C to about 30 °C, or from about 20 °C to about 25 °C.
  • a component of the skin-enhancing system may be applied in any manner, for example, by pasting, spraying, wiping, dispensing, etc. (hereinafter "applying") on the keratinous tissue.
  • applying can typically be accomplished with, for example, a spray bottle, an absorbent cotton swab wetted with the concentrated solution, with a solution-wetted sable brush or by gentle wiping with a solution-wetted absorbent fibrous material, such as a gauze square or nonwoven pad, but other solution application techniques that coat the skin with the solution, in a uniform manner, are also feasible.
  • a component of the skin-enhancing system that is intended for leave-on application is applied and allowed to air dry without removal until the user employs their usual cleansing routine.
  • a component of the skin-enhancing system may optionally be removed after application and some selected interval of time, though the results may not be as desirable. Drying may be promoted by directing a gentle stream of air, warm air, onto the treated area or by other analogous procedures.
  • a single uniform application of a component of the skin- enhancing system to the keratinous tissue is generally sufficient.
  • Percentages of each ingredient as may be exemplified in the following examples are shown as amount of active, wherein the raw materials may be present in an amount that is equal to the amount of active, or if the raw material has a concentration of active that is less than 100% then the composition includes the raw material that includes active and a suitable solvent, wherein the concentration of active in the raw material is provided herein below.
  • inventive the skin-enhancing system is employed using any combination of an oxidizing component and a chemical peel component, such as but not limited to selection from the examples provided in the tables herein above.
  • TABLE 6 provides a list of inventives that are combinations of oxidizing component and chemical peel component formulations from the above tables, as well as comparative compositions that include oxidizing or chemical peel components alone, wherein the examples in TABLE 6 are selected from for use in the test studies shown in the Examples below.
  • the term "Peel Moisturizer” refers to moisturizing forms of the chemical peel component, for example, but not limited to creamy emulsion forms thereof.
  • SC In Vitro Stratum Corneum testing to evaluate lipid disorganization was conducted, and AT was determined using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), measuringthe heat change associated with thermal denaturation when heated at a constant rate.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimetry
  • Compositions and control samples were applied on in vitro SC surface ( ⁇ 0.1 g/sample) for 15 min at 75% relative humidity. According to applications that included use of oxidizing component followed by chemical peel components, the applications were made in series (i.e., not simultaneous/in parallel). Following single or sequential applications, the SC surface was wiped clean and rinsed with distilled water and allowed to dry overnight at 75% relative humidity.
  • EXAMPLE 4 In vitro Stratum Corneum Testing for Lipid Disorganization w/ Cream and Toner forms of Oxidizing Component
  • EXAMPLE 5 Ex vivo skin study
  • compositions that include Acid Control, Comp 1, Comp 3 and INVENTIVE 2 were evaluated in an ex vivo study to show biological effects on skin samples.
  • Comp 3 PEEL TONER 1: A sterile cotton tip applicator was soaked in Modified Jessner Home Peel and formula was topically applied to the ex vivo skin samples for 10 minutes. After application, the explant surfaces were cleaned and dried before returning to culture.
  • INVENTIVE 2 (OX CREAM BASE followed by PEEL TONER 1): 50 uL of Part A and 50 uL of Part B was applied for 15 minutes. After application, the formula was removed and the sample surfaces were cleaned and dried before returning to culture.
  • Tissue sections were then incubated with Rabbit Polyclonal to Involucrin (Abeam, ab81468, 1:150) for one hour.
  • the slides were then incubated with the secondary antibody using the Goat Anti-Rabbit IgG H&L Alexa Fluor 594 in a 1/200 dilution in blocking solution and counterstained with DAPL All sections were then imaged using a fluorescent microscope (Leica DM500, Wetzlar, Germany).
  • FIG 3 shows microscopy images of the tested samples at Day 1 (Baseline) for H&E (A - Acid control, B - Comp 3, C - Comp 1, and D - INVENTIVE 2) and at Day 7 for H&E and staining against Involucrin (E - Acid control, F - Comp 3, G - Comp 1, and H - INVENTIVE 2.
  • E - Acid control, F - Comp 3, G - Comp 1, and H - INVENTIVE 2 The H&E staining results suggests that each of the applications including Comp 3 alone, Comp 1 alone, and INVENTIVE 2 do not induce any obvious signs of cellular/tissue damage.
  • an application regimen included a twice per week application of an oxidizing component in rinse off mask form, and a daily application of a chemical peel component in leave on moisturizer form was followed and compared with a regimen that included daily application of a peel moisturizer chemical peel component alone (without any oxidizing component).
  • the composition employed were Comp 4 (PEEL MOISTURIZER 1) and INVENTIVE 3 (Comp 5 (OX TONER) followed by Comp 4 (PEEL MOISTURIZER 1)).
  • Example 5 results as shown in Example 5 are consistent with the in vitro results described in Examples 3 -5.
  • the articles “a” and “an,” as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limit is specifically stated.
  • the article “the” preceding singular or plural nouns or noun phrases denotes a particular specified feature or particular specified features and may have a singular or plural connotation depending upon the context in which it is used.
  • the adjective “any” means one, some, or all indiscriminately of whatever quantity.
  • weight percent of an ingredient refers to the amount of the raw material comprising the ingredient, wherein the raw material may be described herein to comprise less than and up to 100% activity of the ingredient. Therefore, weight percent of an active in a composition is represented as the amount of raw material containing the active that is used and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active, wherein the final percentage of the active is dependent on the weight percent of active in the raw material.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un système cosmétique d'amélioration de la peau conférant un aspect amélioré de la peau, comprenant une brillance améliorée de la peau du visage, un aspect des pores rendu minimal , une texture lisse visuelle améliorée et un aspect réduit des ridules et des rides. Le système cosmétique d'amélioration de la peau comprend un régime d'application sur la peau, et un article de fabrication pour utiliser le système cosmétique d'amélioration de la peau, comprenant au moins des première et seconde compositions contenues séparément comprenant un composant oxydant comprenant au moins un agent oxydant et de l'eau, et un composant de gommage chimique comprenant au moins un hydroxy-acide et de l'eau, chacune contenue pour être distribuée séparément pour une application sur la peau, dans n'importe quel ordre, et le système d'amélioration de la peau peut être utilisé selon l'un quelconque d'un nombre de régimes d'application possibles, le composant oxydant étant utilisé conjointement avec le composant de gommage chimique, appliqué dans l'ordre, une fois ou plus fréquemment, avec des applications d'au moins l'un des composants sur une base quotidienne pendant quelques jours ou plusieurs jours.
PCT/IB2022/060237 2021-10-29 2022-10-25 Système et régime à base d'oxydant et d'acide pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau WO2023073550A1 (fr)

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US17/514,646 2021-10-29
US17/514,646 US20230136806A1 (en) 2021-10-29 2021-10-29 Oxidizer and acid based system and regimen for enhancing skin appearance
FRFR2200550 2022-01-24
FR2200550A FR3132018A1 (fr) 2022-01-24 2022-01-24 Système et protocole à base d'oxydant et d'acide pour sublimer l'aspect de la peau

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20110240054A1 (en) * 2008-11-27 2011-10-06 Dominic Pratt Bleaching/highlighting composition
FR3058053A1 (fr) * 2016-11-02 2018-05-04 L'oreal Procede de deformation permanente des cheveux mettant en oeuvre une diamine et un agent reducteur
WO2020120513A1 (fr) * 2018-12-11 2020-06-18 Kao Germany Gmbh Procédé pour l'ondulation permanente de fibres de kératine
US20210093530A1 (en) * 2019-09-26 2021-04-01 L'oreal Biphase chemical peel

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20110240054A1 (en) * 2008-11-27 2011-10-06 Dominic Pratt Bleaching/highlighting composition
FR3058053A1 (fr) * 2016-11-02 2018-05-04 L'oreal Procede de deformation permanente des cheveux mettant en oeuvre une diamine et un agent reducteur
WO2020120513A1 (fr) * 2018-12-11 2020-06-18 Kao Germany Gmbh Procédé pour l'ondulation permanente de fibres de kératine
US20210093530A1 (en) * 2019-09-26 2021-04-01 L'oreal Biphase chemical peel

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