WO2023066601A1 - A mild cleansing composition distributable from a pump foamer - Google Patents

A mild cleansing composition distributable from a pump foamer Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023066601A1
WO2023066601A1 PCT/EP2022/076543 EP2022076543W WO2023066601A1 WO 2023066601 A1 WO2023066601 A1 WO 2023066601A1 EP 2022076543 W EP2022076543 W EP 2022076543W WO 2023066601 A1 WO2023066601 A1 WO 2023066601A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
peg
weight
composition according
cleansing composition
relation
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PCT/EP2022/076543
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French (fr)
Inventor
Na Li
Ziyin WANG
Dan KE
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
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Publication of WO2023066601A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023066601A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and relates to a cosmetic cleansing composition, especially a cosmetic cleansing composition releasable as a foam from a packaging device having a foam pump. Furthermore, the composition is distributed from the packaging device in form of a dense and creamy foam, which is used to cleanse the skin, especially the face skin, mild and thoroughly.
  • Cleansing compositions in form of a self-foaming cleanser are very popular today, especially in North Asia.
  • cleansing products are supposed to cleanse the skin and hair.
  • Cleansing products for the skin are primarily used to remove dirt from the skin surface.
  • External solid or liquid components which came into contact with the skin and were deposited thereupon or components applied to the skin, for instance as make-up, are part of the dirt on the skin, which is to be removed.
  • the dirt on the skin also includes excess skin lipids and dead cells.
  • Cleansing compositions intended for face cleansing have to meet special requirements. As the skin of the face is a very sensitive part of the skin, the eye area and the eyes being even more sensitive, cleansing compositions for face cleansing have to be compatible to the skin of the face and the eyes. Therefore, the compositions have to be mild ones.
  • cleansing compositions released from the packaging device as a foam are very appreciated by the consumers. Such cleansing compositions may be distributed on the skin very easily, without the necessity of intense rubbing, which may lead to skin irritations.
  • EP 2468246 A1 discloses skin cleansing compositions exhibiting a low irritation characteristic, which contain polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids and anionic surfactant and/or amphoteric surfactants, the latter ones may have a betaine portion.
  • a Volcanic Mattifying Cleansing Cream (Mintel Data Base, number: 7530121 ) being available since April 2020, is described to be hypoallergenic.
  • This cleansing cream contains a polyglyceryl ester of myristic acid and an amphoteric surfactant, namely coco-betaine.
  • a Blemish Cica Gel Cleanser (Mintel Data Base, number: 8449291 ), which may be purchased since January 2021 , describes a gel cleanser for sensitive skin.
  • This cleansing gel contains a polyglyceryl ester of capric acid and an amphoteric surfactant, namely coco-be- taine.
  • prior art discloses different forms of cleansing compositions, e.g. a cleansing cream or a cleansing gel.
  • a cleansing cream or a cleansing gel e.g. a cleansing cream or a cleansing gel.
  • Sublime Beauty Cleansing Oil-in-Foam (Mintel Data Base, number: 7955377) discloses a foam containing a considerable amount of oils and is intended to thoroughly and quickly remove impurities, excess sebum, and long-lasting make-up. Hence, this product is described to have a good cleansing performance.
  • the aim of the present invention was to provide a cleansing composition, forming a dense and creamy foam upon release from the packaging device and at the same time being very mild to the skin.
  • - being free from synthetic, polymeric thickening agents and - containing o at least one acyl glycinate, o at least one alkyl betaine, o at least one polyglyceryl ester of one or more fatty acids, wherein the polyglyceryl moiety is derived from 2 to 12 glycerine molecules and the fatty acid(s) contain(s) from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and o 55 to 98 % by weight water, could solve the above mentioned problem.
  • a further object of the present invention is a cosmetic product consisting of a cosmetic cleansing composition
  • a packaging device especially a pump foamer, capable of forming a foam upon release of the cleansing composition.
  • Still a further object of the present invention is the use of a surfactant system consisting of
  • At least one acyl glycinate especially potassium cocoyl glyinate
  • polyglyceryl ester of one or more fatty acids wherein the polyglyceryl moiety is derived from 2 to 12 glycerine molecules and the fatty acid(s) contain(s) from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, especially polyglyceryl-10 myristate for providing mildness to a cleansing composition.
  • the above mentioned use is realized in an aqueous composition being free from synthetic, polymeric thickening agents.
  • the composition contains water; hence it is an aqueous composition.
  • the water content ranges from 55 to 98 % by weight, preferably 60 to 95 % by weight, more preferably 70 to 90 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is a fluid.
  • the present invention cannot be realized, if the composition is in form of a gel or in form of a cream, or an oil-in-foam composition.
  • Figure 1 describes the results of the home-in-use test to evaluate key aspects of a product according to the invention, two comparative products, and a competitor product.
  • the user had to evaluate the foam, the fragrance, the cleaning effects, the rinsing, the skin feel during wash, the skin feel after wash and the mildness of the respective product; the best evaluation was 7 points, the worst evaluation was 1 point, with a graduation in between.
  • the values referring to T2B(6-7) refer to the number of the two top evaluations (7 points and 6 points) in relation to each key aspect.
  • the mean values refer to all given evaluations.
  • composition according to the invention contains at least one acyl glycinate, which may be illustrated by the following formula: wherein R represents an alkyl group having 7 to 21 carbon atoms.
  • R may be a specific alkyl group having a distinct number of carbon atoms or a mixture of alkyl groups, if the fatty acids are derived from natural oils, especially natural vegetable oils, such as coconut oil, palm oil, or soybean oil.
  • a cyl group is a mixture of fatty acids derived from coconut oil, hence cocoyl glycinate.
  • the counterion of cocoyl glycinate may be a sodium ion or a potassium ion, however, it is preferred if the counterion is a potassium ion, hence potassium cocoyl glycinate.
  • Potassium cocoyl glycinate may be purchased as Amin GCK95U from the company Tinci.
  • the at least one acyl glycinate is contained in a total amount of 1 .0 to 10.0 % by weight, preferably 2.0 to 7.0 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention contains at least one alkyl betaine, which may be illustrated by the following formula: wherein n represents a value from 7 to 21 .
  • alkyl betaines have a positive and a negative charge and hence may be classified as amphoteric surfactants.
  • the long-chain alkyl residue attached to the positively charged nitrogen atom may be a specific alkyl residue having a distinct number of carbon atoms or a mixture of alkyl residues, if the fatty acids are derived from natural oils, especially natural vegetable oils, such as coconut oil, palm oil, or soybean oil.
  • the alkyl residue is a mixture of fatty acids derived from coconut oil, hence cocobetaine.
  • the at least one alkyl betaine is contained in a total amount of 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 1 .5 to 3.0 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention contains at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester. These esters have at least two glycerol molecules linked to each other.
  • the free hydroxyl groups are esterified with fatty acids; partial esterification being present when not all hydroxyl groups are esterified with fatty acids.
  • Partial fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may be described by the following formula:
  • Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical, the alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising only or predominantly alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 7 to 21 carbon atoms, preferably 9 to 17 carbon atoms, and n is an integer from 1 to 1 1 preferably 5 to 9.
  • the term "predominantly” means that more than 55%, in particular more than 65%, further in particular more than 80% of said radicals have 7 to 21 carbon atoms, preferably 9 to 1 7 carbon atoms.
  • polyglyceryl-10 myristate is preferred, which may be purchased from Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo as S Face M-1001 .
  • the fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are uncharged, but the oxygen atoms of the glycerol molecules and ester bonds are present, which contribute to hydrophilicity, while the al- kyl/alkylene residues of the fatty acids contribute to lipophilicity.
  • the fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are amphiphilic molecules. Therefore, the fatty acid polyglyceryl esters can also act and be designated as non-ionic surfactants.
  • the at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.0 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention does not contain any lipids and/or waxes.
  • the oil and/or wax is selected from the group comprising fatty acid esters, hydrocarbons, Guerbet alcohols, tri- or partial glycerides, mono/dialkyl ethers, mono/dial- kyl carbonates, fatty alcohol ethers, microcrystalline waxes, mineral oil, silicone oil, natural vegetable oils and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention is free from the above mentioned lipids and/or waxes.
  • composition according to the invention may contain one or more moisturizers).
  • Moisturizers contain hydrophilic residues, which may lead to substances being hygroscopic. Hygroscopic substances bind water and therefore may provide moisture. The hygroscopic quality is due to hydrophilic substituents of the molecule, in many cases hydroxyl groups, but other functional groups, such as amine or carboxyl groups can fulfil the same function.
  • moisturizer examples include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerine, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, poly dextrose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, urea, Aloe vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey, and/or polyethylene glycols such as PEG-4, PEG- 6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18, PEG-20, PEG-32, PEG-40, PEG-55, PEG-60, PEG-75, PEG-90, PEG-100, PEG-135, PEG-150, PEG-154, PEG-180, PEG-200, PEG 240.
  • At least one moisturizer having a smaller molecular weight, especially a molecular weight below 250 g/mol and at least one moisturizer having a higher molecular weight, especially a molecular weight above 500 g/mol, further especially above 1000 g/mol are contained in the composition of the present invention. It is more preferred, if glycerine and PEG-150 are contained in the composition of the present invention. It is even more preferred, if glycerine, sorbitol and PEG-150 are contained in the composition of the present invention.
  • the at least one moisturizer is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 35.0 % by weight, preferably 2.0 to 25.0 % by weight, and more preferably 3.0 to 20.0 % by weight in the composition according to the invention, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention contains preservatives. All preservatives, which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic compositions may be contained in the composition according to the invention.
  • Parabens are characterized by the following formula wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl residue of 1 to 5 carbon atoms. Common parabens are methylparaben and/or ethylparaben.
  • the one or more paraben(s) is/are contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 0.8 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.8 % by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.8 % by weight in the composition according to the invention, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • Phenoxyethanol is contained in the composition according to the invention. Phenoxyethanol is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 1 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.9 % by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 0.6 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH value of the composition according to the invention ranges from 6.5 to 9.0, preferably 7.0 to 8.0.
  • the pH value may be adjusted by any physiologically acceptable means. However, it is preferred to use citric acid to adjust the pH value.
  • Electrolytes may be termed mineral nutrients.
  • the electrolytes may be chosen from potassium, magnesium, calcium, sodium, chloride, and/or phosphate. Electrolytes may be absorbed by the skin. Due to their charge they are hydrated and hence, may influence the hydration of the skin in a positive manner.
  • the at least one electrolyte may be sodium chloride and/or potassium chloride.
  • the at least one sort of electrolytes is preferably contained in an amount of 0.1 to 2 % by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 1 .0 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention is free from synthetic polymeric thickening agents.
  • Polymeric thickening agents consist of monomers, which may be of a single sort of monomers or different monomers, usually up to four different monomers, but more may also be possible. Examples are acrylic-based polymers.
  • PEG-X (X representing a number of 6 to 240), such as PEG-150, are excluded from said synthetic thickening polymers.
  • composition of the present invention is free from polymeric thickening agents, which are of natural origin or naturally derived.
  • polymeric thickening agents which are of natural origin or naturally derived.
  • examples may be polymers, which are mainly based on glucose molecules; such as starch and starch derivatives, cellulose and cellulose derivatives, xanthan gum and other more.
  • natural, cosmetic ingredients can be summarized as substances that are available from plants, animals, minerals or microorganisms, including those substances that are obtained from the above-mentioned sources by physical processes, fermentation processes (only those fermentation processes that are also used to occur in nature and lead to products that are also obtained in nature), and other manufacturing methods without chemical modification.
  • the microorganisms may only be those that have not been genetically modified.
  • nature-based substances are compounds that are derived from natural starting materials or are produced starting from natural starting materials.
  • free from is intended to mean a composition containing less than 0.1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.01 % by weight, more preferably 0.001 % by weight, most preferably 0 % by weight, of a respective component, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention is contained in a packaging device, having a container and spraying means.
  • the spraying means is a spray pump having the characteristic elements for such pumps, such as spray head, nozzle, piston, turret, cone, seal, fitting, sleeve, spring, housing and riser.
  • Suitable spray pumps may be purchased, for example, from DERJIN (JIANGSU) PLASTIC PACKAGE CO., LTD. with the name self-foaming pump.
  • the complete packaging device which is very suitable for the present invention, may be called pump foamer.
  • the containers are advantageously made of plastic, in particular PET or PE. Likewise, containers of glass or metal are suitable.
  • Said composition, PFOAM 1 70 (example 1 ), the two comparative compositions and a positive control (internal standard; 0.1 % SDS) were applied to the back of the subjects. 29 subjects ranging from 22 to 66 years of age took part in the study; 12 subjects having a highly SDS sensitive skin (41 %), 14 subjects having a SDS sensitive skin (48 %) and 3 subjects having a less / not SDS sensitive skin (10 %).
  • test products as well as internal standard were applied to the subjects' backs, where they remained for 6 hours.
  • the application sites were visually assessed approximately 18 hours after removal of the patches in accordance with the Global Irritation Scale.
  • the application was repeated up to 4 times, or up to the first sign of skin irritation (score > 1 ).
  • Test products were applied with occlusive patches (Type Leukotest, Beiersdorf AG). The diameter of the patch is 1 cm, providing an exposure area of 0.79 cm 2 . 100 pl of the test product was applied to the patches with a pipette. All test patches were affixed to the upper back, where they remained for 6 hours (days 1 , 2, 3 and 4), respectively.
  • two Fixomull stretch templates BSN, 15 cm x 10 cm
  • the holes in the template had a minimum distance of 4 cm to each other's center.
  • the templates were placed directly onto the back. The application was repeated up to 4 times, or up to the first sign of skin irritation (score > 1 , see below).
  • the skin was assessed visually by an experienced person with regard to the occurrence of any skin irritation (e.g. erythema).
  • Day1 st score is referring to the first day of visual evaluation, this day corresponds to “Day 2" of the epicutaneous patch test. The same holds true for the “Day2nd score”, which was determined on “Day 3" of said test, “Day3rd score”, which was determined on “Day 4" of said test, and “Day4th score”, which was determined on "Day 5" of said test.
  • the inventive example is a very mild composition as the epicutaneous patch test revealed.
  • a home in use test was conducted as a blind and monadic test.
  • the product according to the invention (example 1 , PFOAM 1 70, F17) was evaluated by 154 female users (50% having the age of 18 to 25 and 50 % having the age of 26 to 35) living in two different cities. In parallel, three other products were evaluated, the product M31
  • the competitor product was the product Curel Intensive Moisture Care Foaming Wash (Mintel Data Base, number: 7976579), containing the following ingredients according to the INCI listing: water, glycerin, maltitol, propylene glycol, PEG-150, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, lauryl hydroxysultaine, polysorbate-60, ethylhexylglycerin, disodium EDTA, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, potassium hydroxide, methylparaben, phenoxyethanol.
  • Water glycerin, maltitol, propylene glycol, PEG-150, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, lauryl hydroxysultaine, polysorbate-60, ethylhexylglycerin, disodium EDTA, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, potassium hydroxide,
  • the product according to the invention was evaluated better in some aspects as PFOAM 1 73, namely fragrance, cleaning effect, rinsing, and mildness.
  • the product PFOAM 173 was evaluated better than the product PFOAM 1 70 referring to the aspect of foam
  • R52 Curel
  • the creaminess of the foam as just right and also the thickness of the foam as just right in relation to the product according to the invention.
  • a solution to the problem to provide a product for face cleansing being mild to the skin and having a dense and creamy foam could be shown. Examples;

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Abstract

Disclosed is a cosmetic cleansing composition releasable as a foam from a packaging device having a foam pump. Said foam, being dense and creamy, is used to cleanse the skin, especially the face skin, mild and thoroughly.

Description

A Mild Cleansing Composition Distributable from a Pump Foamer
Technical field
The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and relates to a cosmetic cleansing composition, especially a cosmetic cleansing composition releasable as a foam from a packaging device having a foam pump. Furthermore, the composition is distributed from the packaging device in form of a dense and creamy foam, which is used to cleanse the skin, especially the face skin, mild and thoroughly.
Background art
Cleansing compositions in form of a self-foaming cleanser are very popular today, especially in North Asia.
In general, cleansing products are supposed to cleanse the skin and hair. Cleansing products for the skin are primarily used to remove dirt from the skin surface. External solid or liquid components, which came into contact with the skin and were deposited thereupon or components applied to the skin, for instance as make-up, are part of the dirt on the skin, which is to be removed. Furthermore, the dirt on the skin also includes excess skin lipids and dead cells. By the aid of surfactants in the cleansing compositions, the components of the dirt are solubilized and removed from the surface of the skin during rinsing off. This also holds true for make-up, which shall be removed from the skin, hair, and skin appendages, and in particular from the face.
Cleansing compositions intended for face cleansing have to meet special requirements. As the skin of the face is a very sensitive part of the skin, the eye area and the eyes being even more sensitive, cleansing compositions for face cleansing have to be compatible to the skin of the face and the eyes. Therefore, the compositions have to be mild ones.
Moreover, cleansing compositions released from the packaging device as a foam are very appreciated by the consumers. Such cleansing compositions may be distributed on the skin very easily, without the necessity of intense rubbing, which may lead to skin irritations.
Mild cleansing compositions are known from prior art. EP 2468246 A1 discloses skin cleansing compositions exhibiting a low irritation characteristic, which contain polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids and anionic surfactant and/or amphoteric surfactants, the latter ones may have a betaine portion.
A Volcanic Mattifying Cleansing Cream (Mintel Data Base, number: 7530121 ) being available since April 2020, is described to be hypoallergenic. This cleansing cream contains a polyglyceryl ester of myristic acid and an amphoteric surfactant, namely coco-betaine.
A Blemish Cica Gel Cleanser (Mintel Data Base, number: 8449291 ), which may be purchased since January 2021 , describes a gel cleanser for sensitive skin. This cleansing gel contains a polyglyceryl ester of capric acid and an amphoteric surfactant, namely coco-be- taine.
As shown above, prior art discloses different forms of cleansing compositions, e.g. a cleansing cream or a cleansing gel. However, it is desirable to provide the cleansing composition in form of a foam.
The product Sublime Beauty Cleansing Oil-in-Foam (Mintel Data Base, number: 7955377) discloses a foam containing a considerable amount of oils and is intended to thoroughly and quickly remove impurities, excess sebum, and long-lasting make-up. Hence, this product is described to have a good cleansing performance.
The aim of the present invention was to provide a cleansing composition, forming a dense and creamy foam upon release from the packaging device and at the same time being very mild to the skin.
To achieve a dense foam, in general a high amount of surfactants is used, even surfactants in form of soaps. However, these high amounts of surfactants may cause irritations of the skin and the respective compositions are not perceived as mild ones. Hence, a balance between the mildness of the cleansing composition and a dense and creamy foam had to be found.
Summary of the invention
Surprisingly, it was found that a cosmetic cleansing composition releasable as a foam from the packaging device
- being free from synthetic, polymeric thickening agents and - containing o at least one acyl glycinate, o at least one alkyl betaine, o at least one polyglyceryl ester of one or more fatty acids, wherein the polyglyceryl moiety is derived from 2 to 12 glycerine molecules and the fatty acid(s) contain(s) from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and o 55 to 98 % by weight water, could solve the above mentioned problem.
A further object of the present invention is a cosmetic product consisting of a cosmetic cleansing composition
- being free from synthetic, polymeric thickening agents and
- containing o at least one acyl glycinate, o at least one alkyl betaine, o at least one polyglyceryl ester of one or more fatty acids, wherein the polyglyceryl moiety is derived from 2 to 12 glycerine molecules and the fatty acid(s) contain(s) from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and o 55 to 98 % by weight water, and a packaging device, especially a pump foamer, capable of forming a foam upon release of the cleansing composition.
Still a further object of the present invention is the use of a surfactant system consisting of
- at least one acyl glycinate, especially potassium cocoyl glyinate,
- at least one alkyl betaine, especially coco-betaine, and
- at least one polyglyceryl ester of one or more fatty acids, wherein the polyglyceryl moiety is derived from 2 to 12 glycerine molecules and the fatty acid(s) contain(s) from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, especially polyglyceryl-10 myristate for providing mildness to a cleansing composition.
Preferably, the above mentioned use is realized in an aqueous composition being free from synthetic, polymeric thickening agents.
The composition contains water; hence it is an aqueous composition. The water content ranges from 55 to 98 % by weight, preferably 60 to 95 % by weight, more preferably 70 to 90 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition is a fluid. The present invention cannot be realized, if the composition is in form of a gel or in form of a cream, or an oil-in-foam composition.
Brief description of the Drawings
Figure 1 describes the results of the home-in-use test to evaluate key aspects of a product according to the invention, two comparative products, and a competitor product. The user had to evaluate the foam, the fragrance, the cleaning effects, the rinsing, the skin feel during wash, the skin feel after wash and the mildness of the respective product; the best evaluation was 7 points, the worst evaluation was 1 point, with a graduation in between. The values referring to T2B(6-7) refer to the number of the two top evaluations (7 points and 6 points) in relation to each key aspect. The mean values refer to all given evaluations.
Detailed description of the invention
The composition according to the invention contains at least one acyl glycinate, which may be illustrated by the following formula:
Figure imgf000005_0001
wherein R represents an alkyl group having 7 to 21 carbon atoms.
R may be a specific alkyl group having a distinct number of carbon atoms or a mixture of alkyl groups, if the fatty acids are derived from natural oils, especially natural vegetable oils, such as coconut oil, palm oil, or soybean oil.
According to the present invention, it is preferred if the a cyl group is a mixture of fatty acids derived from coconut oil, hence cocoyl glycinate.
The counterion of cocoyl glycinate may be a sodium ion or a potassium ion, however, it is preferred if the counterion is a potassium ion, hence potassium cocoyl glycinate. Potassium cocoyl glycinate may be purchased as Amin GCK95U from the company Tinci.
Advantageously, according to the present invention, the at least one acyl glycinate is contained in a total amount of 1 .0 to 10.0 % by weight, preferably 2.0 to 7.0 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.
4
SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) The composition according to the invention contains at least one alkyl betaine, which may be illustrated by the following formula:
Figure imgf000006_0001
wherein n represents a value from 7 to 21 .
The formula shows that alkyl betaines have a positive and a negative charge and hence may be classified as amphoteric surfactants.
The long-chain alkyl residue attached to the positively charged nitrogen atom may be a specific alkyl residue having a distinct number of carbon atoms or a mixture of alkyl residues, if the fatty acids are derived from natural oils, especially natural vegetable oils, such as coconut oil, palm oil, or soybean oil.
According to the present invention, it is preferred if the alkyl residue is a mixture of fatty acids derived from coconut oil, hence cocobetaine.
Advantageously, according to the present invention, the at least one alkyl betaine is contained in a total amount of 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 1 .5 to 3.0 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention contains at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester. These esters have at least two glycerol molecules linked to each other. The free hydroxyl groups are esterified with fatty acids; partial esterification being present when not all hydroxyl groups are esterified with fatty acids.
Partial fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may be described by the following formula:
Figure imgf000006_0002
5
SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) wherein Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical, the alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising only or predominantly alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 7 to 21 carbon atoms, preferably 9 to 17 carbon atoms, and n is an integer from 1 to 1 1 preferably 5 to 9. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "predominantly" means that more than 55%, in particular more than 65%, further in particular more than 80% of said radicals have 7 to 21 carbon atoms, preferably 9 to 1 7 carbon atoms. According to the invention the use of polyglyceryl-10 myristate is preferred, which may be purchased from Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo as S Face M-1001 .
The fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are uncharged, but the oxygen atoms of the glycerol molecules and ester bonds are present, which contribute to hydrophilicity, while the al- kyl/alkylene residues of the fatty acids contribute to lipophilicity. Thus, the fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are amphiphilic molecules. Therefore, the fatty acid polyglyceryl esters can also act and be designated as non-ionic surfactants.
Advantageously, according to the present invention, the at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.0 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not contain any lipids and/or waxes. The oil and/or wax is selected from the group comprising fatty acid esters, hydrocarbons, Guerbet alcohols, tri- or partial glycerides, mono/dialkyl ethers, mono/dial- kyl carbonates, fatty alcohol ethers, microcrystalline waxes, mineral oil, silicone oil, natural vegetable oils and mixtures thereof. The composition of the invention is free from the above mentioned lipids and/or waxes.
Additionally, composition according to the invention may contain one or more moisturizers). Moisturizers contain hydrophilic residues, which may lead to substances being hygroscopic. Hygroscopic substances bind water and therefore may provide moisture. The hygroscopic quality is due to hydrophilic substituents of the molecule, in many cases hydroxyl groups, but other functional groups, such as amine or carboxyl groups can fulfil the same function. Examples of moisturizer are propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerine, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, poly dextrose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, urea, Aloe vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey, and/or polyethylene glycols such as PEG-4, PEG- 6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18, PEG-20, PEG-32, PEG-40, PEG-55, PEG-60, PEG-75, PEG-90, PEG-100, PEG-135, PEG-150, PEG-154, PEG-180, PEG-200, PEG 240. It is preferred, if at least one moisturizer having a smaller molecular weight, especially a molecular weight below 250 g/mol and at least one moisturizer having a higher molecular weight, especially a molecular weight above 500 g/mol, further especially above 1000 g/mol are contained in the composition of the present invention. It is more preferred, if glycerine and PEG-150 are contained in the composition of the present invention. It is even more preferred, if glycerine, sorbitol and PEG-150 are contained in the composition of the present invention.
Advantageously, the at least one moisturizer is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 35.0 % by weight, preferably 2.0 to 25.0 % by weight, and more preferably 3.0 to 20.0 % by weight in the composition according to the invention, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention contains preservatives. All preservatives, which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic compositions may be contained in the composition according to the invention.
However, it is preferred, if one or more paraben(s) is/are contained. Parabens are characterized by the following formula
Figure imgf000008_0001
wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl residue of 1 to 5 carbon atoms. Common parabens are methylparaben and/or ethylparaben.
The one or more paraben(s) is/are contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 0.8 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.8 % by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.8 % by weight in the composition according to the invention, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
7
SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) It is likewise preferred, if Phenoxyethanol is contained in the composition according to the invention. Phenoxyethanol is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 1 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.9 % by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 0.6 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
Furthermore, it is likewise preferred, if a combination of one or more parabene(s) and Phenoxyethanol is contained in the composition of the present invention.
Advantageously, the pH value of the composition according to the invention ranges from 6.5 to 9.0, preferably 7.0 to 8.0. The pH value may be adjusted by any physiologically acceptable means. However, it is preferred to use citric acid to adjust the pH value.
Advantageously, according to the invention additionally at least one sort of electrolyte may be contained in the composition of the present invention. Electrolytes may be termed mineral nutrients. According to the present invention the electrolytes may be chosen from potassium, magnesium, calcium, sodium, chloride, and/or phosphate. Electrolytes may be absorbed by the skin. Due to their charge they are hydrated and hence, may influence the hydration of the skin in a positive manner. The at least one electrolyte may be sodium chloride and/or potassium chloride.
If at least one sort of electrolytes is contained in the composition of the present invention, the at least one sort of electrolytes is preferably contained in an amount of 0.1 to 2 % by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 1 .0 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the present invention is free from synthetic polymeric thickening agents. Polymeric thickening agents consist of monomers, which may be of a single sort of monomers or different monomers, usually up to four different monomers, but more may also be possible. Examples are acrylic-based polymers.
PEG-X (X representing a number of 6 to 240), such as PEG-150, are excluded from said synthetic thickening polymers.
Additionally, the composition of the present invention is free from polymeric thickening agents, which are of natural origin or naturally derived. Examples may be polymers, which are mainly based on glucose molecules; such as starch and starch derivatives, cellulose and cellulose derivatives, xanthan gum and other more.
The term "natural" in connection with natural ingredients for cosmetics is specified in ISO 16128; the first part of ISO 16128-1 was published on February 15, 2016, the second part of ISO 16128 2 was published in September 2017. According to this guideline, natural, cosmetic ingredients can be summarized as substances that are available from plants, animals, minerals or microorganisms, including those substances that are obtained from the above-mentioned sources by physical processes, fermentation processes (only those fermentation processes that are also used to occur in nature and lead to products that are also obtained in nature), and other manufacturing methods without chemical modification. The microorganisms may only be those that have not been genetically modified.
In general, nature-based substances are compounds that are derived from natural starting materials or are produced starting from natural starting materials. In order to assess the extent to which a substance is nature-based, the method for determining the "Biorenewable Carbon Index" (= BCI) may be used. This method is used to determine the percentage of carbon atoms that come from renewable plant or animal sources in relation to the carbon atoms from non-renewable, petrochemical sources, see HAPPI July, 58-60, 2009.
The term "free from" is intended to mean a composition containing less than 0.1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.01 % by weight, more preferably 0.001 % by weight, most preferably 0 % by weight, of a respective component, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the invention is contained in a packaging device, having a container and spraying means. Advantageously, the spraying means is a spray pump having the characteristic elements for such pumps, such as spray head, nozzle, piston, turret, cone, seal, fitting, sleeve, spring, housing and riser. Suitable spray pumps may be purchased, for example, from DERJIN (JIANGSU) PLASTIC PACKAGE CO., LTD. with the name self-foaming pump. The complete packaging device, which is very suitable for the present invention, may be called pump foamer.
The containers are advantageously made of plastic, in particular PET or PE. Likewise, containers of glass or metal are suitable. In order to analyze the mildness of the composition according to the invention and of two comparative compositions a shortened epicutaneous patch test was conducted. Said composition, PFOAM 1 70 (example 1 ), the two comparative compositions and a positive control (internal standard; 0.1 % SDS) were applied to the back of the subjects. 29 subjects ranging from 22 to 66 years of age took part in the study; 12 subjects having a highly SDS sensitive skin (41 %), 14 subjects having a SDS sensitive skin (48 %) and 3 subjects having a less / not SDS sensitive skin (10 %).
The test products as well as internal standard were applied to the subjects' backs, where they remained for 6 hours. The application sites were visually assessed approximately 18 hours after removal of the patches in accordance with the Global Irritation Scale. The application was repeated up to 4 times, or up to the first sign of skin irritation (score > 1 ).
Test products were applied with occlusive patches (Type Leukotest, Beiersdorf AG). The diameter of the patch is 1 cm, providing an exposure area of 0.79 cm2. 100 pl of the test product was applied to the patches with a pipette. All test patches were affixed to the upper back, where they remained for 6 hours (days 1 , 2, 3 and 4), respectively. In order to avoid irritant reactions to the skin adjacent to the patches, two Fixomull stretch templates (BSN, 15 cm x 10 cm) with five (left) or three (right) 25 mm diameter holes were used to protect the skin adjacent to the test area over the entire test period. The holes in the template had a minimum distance of 4 cm to each other's center. The templates were placed directly onto the back. The application was repeated up to 4 times, or up to the first sign of skin irritation (score > 1 , see below).
Visual scoring took place in accordance with the Global Irritation Scale 18 hours after removal of the patches.
Assessments were performed at the following times:
Figure imgf000012_0001
* 6 hours after application of the test product or internal standard.
** by a trained evaluator, 18 hours after patch removal.
After removing the test patches, the skin was assessed visually by an experienced person with regard to the occurrence of any skin irritation (e.g. erythema).
Irritation Grading Scale:
Figure imgf000012_0002
*No further product application;
** according to the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group.
Irritation Index - Evaluation of skin compatibility
Figure imgf000013_0003
Formula calculation for the Irritation Index: number of erythema x 4 + number of erythema
Figure imgf000013_0001
1 + number of erythema x 0.5 + number of erythema
Figure imgf000013_0002
0.5.
"Day1 st score" is referring to the first day of visual evaluation, this day corresponds to "Day 2" of the epicutaneous patch test. The same holds true for the "Day2nd score", which was determined on "Day 3" of said test, "Day3rd score", which was determined on "Day 4" of said test, and "Day4th score", which was determined on "Day 5" of said test.
The following results were obtained.
Figure imgf000013_0004
The inventive example (PFOAM 170) is a very mild composition as the epicutaneous patch test revealed. In a further step a home in use test was conducted as a blind and monadic test. The product according to the invention (example 1 , PFOAM 1 70, F17) was evaluated by 154 female users (50% having the age of 18 to 25 and 50 % having the age of 26 to 35) living in two different cities. In parallel, three other products were evaluated, the product M31
(= PFOAM 1 73) by 154 female users, the product P65 (= PFOAM 165) by 155 female users and the competitor product by 155 female users. The comparative products, M31 and P65, were products according to the formulas shown in the table of comparative formulas.
The competitor product was the product Curel Intensive Moisture Care Foaming Wash (Mintel Data Base, number: 7976579), containing the following ingredients according to the INCI listing: water, glycerin, maltitol, propylene glycol, PEG-150, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, lauryl hydroxysultaine, polysorbate-60, ethylhexylglycerin, disodium EDTA, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, potassium hydroxide, methylparaben, phenoxyethanol.
Several aspects were to be evaluated, such as overall liking, overall performance, and performance on key aspects (foam, fragrance, cleaning effects, rinsing, skin feel during wash, skin feel after wash, mildness).
Referring to overall liking and overall performance the product according to the invention (example , PFOAM 170, F17) and the product according to the example PFOAM 173 were evaluated best, both products with similar results.
In relation to the above mentioned key aspects the product according to the invention was evaluated better in some aspects as PFOAM 1 73, namely fragrance, cleaning effect, rinsing, and mildness. Despite the fact that the product PFOAM 173 was evaluated better than the product PFOAM 1 70 referring to the aspect of foam, the foam of the product according to the invention is nevertheless evaluated better than the competitor product on the market, namely R52 (= Curel). Moreover, by farthe majority of the users described the creaminess of the foam as just right and also the thickness of the foam as just right in relation to the product according to the invention. Hence, a solution to the problem to provide a product for face cleansing, being mild to the skin and having a dense and creamy foam could be shown. Examples;
The examples below are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the particular preparations, given as active content.
Figure imgf000015_0001
Comparative Examples:
Figure imgf000016_0001

Claims

Claims A cosmetic cleansing composition releasable as a foam from the packaging device,
- being free from synthetic, polymeric thickening agents, and
- containing o at least one acyl glycinate, o at least one alkyl betaine, o at least one polyglyceryl ester of one or more fatty acids, wherein the polyglyceryl moiety is derived from 2 to 12 glycerine molecules and the fatty acid(s) contain(s) from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and o 55 to 98 % by weight water. Cleansing composition according to claim 1 characterized in that water is contained in an amount of 60 to 95 % by weight, preferably 70 to 90 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. Cleansing composition according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that the acyl residue of the at least one acyl glycinate comprises 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably comprising acyl residues derived from natural oils, more preferably from coconut oil, palm oil, or soybean oil. Cleansing composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one acyl glycinate is cocoyl glycinate, preferably sodium and/or potassium cocoyl glycinate, more preferably potassium cocoyl glycinate. Cleansing composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one acyl glycinate is contained in a total amount of 1 .0 to 10.0 % by weight, preferably 2.0 to 7.0 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition. Cleansing composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the alkyl of at least one alkyl betaine comprises 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably comprising alkyl residues derived from natural oils, more preferably from coconut oil, palm oil, or soybean oil.
. Cleansing composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one alkyl betaine is cocobetaine. . Cleansing composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one alkyl betaine is contained in a total amount of 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 1 .5 to 3.0 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition. . Cleansing composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is polyglyceryl-10 myristate. 0. Cleansing composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.0 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition. 1 . Cleansing composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that additionally at least one moisturizers is contained, preferably chosen from propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerine, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, poly dextrose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, urea, Aloe vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey, and/or polyethylene glycols such as PEG-4, PEG- 6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18, PEG-20, PEG-32, PEG-40, PEG-55, PEG-60, PEG-75, PEG-90, PEG-100, PEG- 135, PEG-150, PEG-154, PEG-180, PEG-200, PEG 240. 2. Cleansing composition according to claim 1 1 characterized in that at least one moisturizer having a molecular weight below 250 g/mol and at least one moisturizer having a molecular weight above 500 g/mol, especially above 1000 g/mol are contained, preferably glycerine and PEG-150 are contained, more preferably glycerine, sorbitol and PEG-150 are contained. 3. Cleansing composition according to claim 1 1 or 12 characterized in that the least one moisturizer is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 35.0 % by weight, preferably 2.0 to 25.0 % by weight, and more preferably 3.0 to 20.0 % by weight in the composition according to the invention, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition. Cleansing composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that additionally the composition is free from natural or nature-based polymeric thickening agents, lipids, and/or waxes. A cosmetic product consisting of a cosmetic cleansing composition according to any of the preceding claims and a packaging device, especially a pump foamer, capable of forming a foam upon release of the cleansing composition. Use of a surfactant system consisting of at least one acyl glycinate, especially potassium cocoyl glyinate, at least one alkyl betaine, especially coco-betaine, and at least one polyglyceryl ester of one or more fatty acids, wherein the polyglyceryl moiety is derived from 2 to 12 glycerine molecules and the fatty acid(s) contain(s) from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, especially polyglyceryl-10 myristate, for providing mildness to a cosmetic cleansing composition according to any of claims 1 -14.
18
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GB201215054D0 (en) * 2012-08-23 2012-10-10 Unilever Plc Mild foaming make-up remover composition
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