WO2023052380A1 - Lyocell fibre comprising a matting agent and its use for the production of a textile fabric - Google Patents
Lyocell fibre comprising a matting agent and its use for the production of a textile fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2023052380A1 WO2023052380A1 PCT/EP2022/076890 EP2022076890W WO2023052380A1 WO 2023052380 A1 WO2023052380 A1 WO 2023052380A1 EP 2022076890 W EP2022076890 W EP 2022076890W WO 2023052380 A1 WO2023052380 A1 WO 2023052380A1
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- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- lyocell
- fibre
- fabric
- fibres
- twill
- Prior art date
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 147
- 229920000433 Lyocell Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 103
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 82
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 36
- 239000006224 matting agent Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 11
- 239000011159 matrix material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- COHYTHOBJLSHDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N indigo powder Natural products N1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C1=C1C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2N1 COHYTHOBJLSHDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 19
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- COHYTHOBJLSHDF-BUHFOSPRSA-N indigo dye Chemical compound N\1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C/1=C1/C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2N1 COHYTHOBJLSHDF-BUHFOSPRSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- TZCXTZWJZNENPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-L barium sulfate Chemical compound [Ba+2].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O TZCXTZWJZNENPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 abstract description 16
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 abstract description 8
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 50
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 16
- 235000000177 Indigofera tinctoria Nutrition 0.000 description 15
- 229940097275 indigo Drugs 0.000 description 15
- 235000004879 dioscorea Nutrition 0.000 description 14
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 14
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 13
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 12
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 11
- 239000000985 reactive dye Substances 0.000 description 8
- 238000001878 scanning electron micrograph Methods 0.000 description 8
- 239000000984 vat dye Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000000982 direct dye Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000001228 spectrum Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000523 sample Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000027455 binding Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000009739 binding Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000004626 scanning electron microscopy Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920003043 Cellulose fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940121710 HMGCoA reductase inhibitor Drugs 0.000 description 1
- CBENFWSGALASAD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ozone Chemical compound [O-][O+]=O CBENFWSGALASAD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfur Chemical compound [S] NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005864 Sulphur Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005054 agglomeration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002776 aggregation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004458 analytical method Methods 0.000 description 1
- POJOORKDYOPQLS-UHFFFAOYSA-L barium(2+) 5-chloro-2-[(2-hydroxynaphthalen-1-yl)diazenyl]-4-methylbenzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Ba+2].C1=C(Cl)C(C)=CC(N=NC=2C3=CC=CC=C3C=CC=2O)=C1S([O-])(=O)=O.C1=C(Cl)C(C)=CC(N=NC=2C3=CC=CC=C3C=CC=2O)=C1S([O-])(=O)=O POJOORKDYOPQLS-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000001045 blue dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 206010061592 cardiac fibrillation Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- NEHMKBQYUWJMIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N chloromethane Chemical compound ClC NEHMKBQYUWJMIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000001143 conditioned effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011496 digital image analysis Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009967 direct dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005562 fading Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002600 fibrillogenic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000001046 green dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005286 illumination Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010348 incorporation Methods 0.000 description 1
- -1 modal Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004745 nonwoven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001048 orange dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004627 regenerated cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009877 rendering Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000725 suspension Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009827 uniform distribution Methods 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000003313 weakening effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F2/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of cellulose or cellulose derivatives; Manufacture thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F1/00—General methods for the manufacture of artificial filaments or the like
- D01F1/02—Addition of substances to the spinning solution or to the melt
- D01F1/10—Other agents for modifying properties
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
Definitions
- Lyocell fibre comprising a matting agent and its use for the production of a textile fabric
- the present invention relates to a lyocell fibre comprising a matting agent, the use of said lyocell fibre for the production of a textile fabric and a textile fabric comprising said lyocell fibre.
- Cotton is the most widely used natural cellulosic fibre for the production of textile fabrics. Although cotton is a very resistant fibre and can be subjected to aggressive and harsh treatments (e.g. denim laundry, etc.), its mechanical and haptic properties (e.g. handfeel, softness, etc.) are not always ideal in some applications.
- Cellulosic man-made fibres can completely or partially replace cotton fibres in many applications.
- Suitable cellulosic man-made fibres in this regard include regenerated cellulose fibres such as viscose and modal or solvent-spun cellulosic fibres such as lyocell.
- Lyocell fibres are particularly suitable as a replacement for cotton due to their mechanical properties (such as high strength) and other properties (e.g. moisture management, grip, etc.). Especially in terms of handfeel and softness, lyocell fibres are regarded as superior to cotton. Lyocell fibres, however, have a high gloss which is undesirable for certain applications or for fashion reasons.
- the invention has the object of providing a lyocell fibre which has a similar appearance to cotton, while retaining its mechanical strength and other properties, such as handfeel, softness, etc., that can be produced cost-efficiently.
- the matting agent may contain between 2 wt.- % and 5 wt.-% BaSCU and less than 1 wt.-% TiCL, with respect to fibre weight, whereby the matting agent is incorporated in the fibre matrix in the form of particulates.
- the matting agent may contain between 2 wt.- % and 5 wt.-% BaSCU and less than 1 wt.-% TiCL, with respect to fibre weight, whereby the matting agent is incorporated in the fibre matrix in the form of particulates.
- the present invention also solves the stated object by using the inventive fibre for the production of a textile fabric according to claim 6.
- the present invention solves the stated object by providing a textile fabric according to claim 8 and a textile artic according to claim 14.
- Fig. la shows the results of visual evaluation of the matte property of fabrics according to Example 1,
- Fig. lb shows the results of visual evaluation of the matte property of fabrics according to Example 2,
- Fig. 2a shows a CIE LCh-Plot of results of visual evaluation of the matte property of fabrics according to Example 1 dyed with red reactive dye
- Fig. 2b shows a CIE LCh-Plot of results of visual evaluation of the matte property of fabrics according to Example 1 dyed with black reactive dye
- Fig. 2c shows a CIE LCh-Plot of results of visual evaluation of the matte property of fabrics according to Example 1 dyed with blue reactive dye
- Fig. 2d shows a CIE LCh-Plot of results of visual evaluation of the matte property of fabrics according to Example 1 directly dyed with blue dye
- Fig. 2e shows a CIE LCh-Plot of results of visual evaluation of the matte property of fabrics according to Example 1 directly dyed with green dye
- Fig. 2f shows a CIE LCh-Plot of results of visual evaluation of the matte property of fabrics according to Example 1 directly dyed with orange dye
- Fig. 2g shows a CIE LCh-Plot of results of visual evaluation of the matte property of fabrics according to Example 1 dyed with yellow VAT dye
- Fig. 2h shows a CIE LCh-Plot of results of visual evaluation of the matte property of fabrics according to Example 1 dyed with red VAT dye
- Fig. 3 a shows the results of reflection measurements of fabrics according to Example 1 at 60° angle
- Fig. 3b shows the results of reflection measurements of fabrics according to Example 1 at 85° angle
- Fig. 3 c shows the results of reflection measurements of fabrics according to Example 2 at 60° angle
- Fig. 3d shows the results of reflection measurements of fabrics according to Example 2 at 85° angle
- Fig. 4a shows an SEM image depicting the fibre surface of matted lyocell fibres according to the invention
- Fig. 4b shows an SEM image depicting the fibre surface of matted lyocell fibres according to the invention
- Fig. 4c shows an SEM image depicting the fibre cross-section of a single matted lyocell fibres according to the invention
- Fig. 4d shows an SEM image depicting the fibre cross-sections of multiple matted lyocell fibres according to the invention
- Fig. 4e shows an SEM image depicting the fibre surface of standard lyocell fibres
- Fig. 4f shows an SEM image depicting the fibre cross-sections of a cotton fibre
- Fig. 5 shows a comparison of TSA spectra for undyed twill fabrics of matted lyocell fibres according to the invention and comparative standard lyocell fibres and cotton fibres.
- the matting agent comprises between 2 wt.- % and 5 wt.-% BaSCU and less than 1 wt.-% TiCh, whereby the matting agent is incorporated in the fibre matrix in the form of particulates.
- the wt.-%-values of BaSCh and TiCE are specified with respect to the fibre weight.
- the matting agent comprises between 3 wt. % and 5 wt.-% BaSO4 and between 0.5 wt.-% and 0.9 wt.-% TiCE, with respect to the fibre weight.
- the matting agent comprises between 3.5 wt.-% and 4.5 wt.-% BaSO 4 , more preferably between 3.8 wt.-% and 4.2 wt.-% BaSO 4 , and between 0.6 wt.-% and 0.8 wt.-% TiCh, with respect to the fibre weight.
- the BaSO4 particulates may have a particle size distribution defined by an xso lower than 1.5 pm and an X99 lower than 4 pm.
- the TiO2 particulates may have a particle size distribution defined by an X50 lower than 1 pm and an X99 lower than 2 pm.
- the xso-value represents the mean particle size of the particle size distribution, while the X99-value represents the particle size, where 99% of all particles are smaller than X99.
- Particle size distribution can be measured on the fibre via photomicrography in combination with digital image analysis.
- the matting agent is added to the cellulose solution (i.e. the lyocell spinning mass) prior to spinning of the fibres. Therefore, the matting agent is preferably added to the spinning mass in the form of a suspension, where BaSO 4 and optionally TiCh particulates are dispersed in water beforehand with the help of a dispersion device.
- inventive lyocell fibres exhibit a titre from 1.1 dtex to 2.5 dtex, preferably from 1.3 dtex to 2.0 dtex.
- the inventive lyocell fibres as described above may advantageously be used for the manufacture of a textile fabric.
- the manufacture of the fabric comprises spinning a yarn using the lyocell fibre and dyeing at least a part of the yam, more particularly with an indigo dye.
- lyocell fibres or fabrics made thereof When dyeing lyocell fibres or fabrics made thereof, in particular with indigo dyes (indigo dyestuff), the natural shine of the fibres is further increased. Lyocell fibres have a natural shine due to the intrinsic fibre properties (e.g., smooth cross-section). The combination of lyocell fibres with brilliant colours (e.g., indigo, reactive, direct, or other dye-colours) bring about a shiny fabric surface. As indigo lyocell fabrics have more sheen than indigo cotton fabrics, a matte version of such lyocell denim fabrics is sought after in the fashion industry.
- indigo lyocell fabrics have more sheen than indigo cotton fabrics, a matte version of such lyocell denim fabrics is sought after in the fashion industry.
- the term “denim” refers to a category of fabrics, which are not only characterized by the weave- or binding type but show a characteristic combination of properties. While for traditional denim fabrics a twill weave was used, other types of textile bindings (such as canvas or satin weave) have also become established in the modem textile industry. However, all denim fabrics are characterized by a robust woven fabric with dyed warp yams and undyed weft yarns, whereby the warp is surface dyed, but the core of the warp remains undyed, which results in fading characteristics typical for denim. Due to the warp-faced weaving, denim is coloured on the outside and white (i.e., undyed) on the inside. Thereby, preferably indigo dyes are used for dyeing the warp.
- a very common denim fabric is a woven fabric in which the warp contains indigo dyed cotton yam while the weft contains undyed cotton yam. Variations in denim fabric are however limitless e.g.: the weft yarn may contain dyed fibre (e.g., spun-dyed), the indigo dyed warp yam can be overdyed with sulphur dyes, etc.
- Denim fabrics are also limitless, such as knit fabrics (e.g., circular, flat or seamless knits) containing indigo dyed cotton yarn.
- Alternative to cotton, other cellulosic yarns such as lyocell, modal, viscose, etc. can also be used for indigo dyeing.
- Denim fabrics have the ability to get wash-down/used look during garment laundries (ozone, laser, etc) thanks to indigo and other dischargeable dyestuffs.
- inventive fibres By using the inventive fibre for spinning a yarn and subsequently dyeing at least part of the yam, the advantages of the inventive fibre may be fully utilized.
- inventive fibres provide a matte appearance similar to cotton, even after dyeing. This is further demonstrated on behalf of several examples below.
- the first and second yam may be interweaved to form a woven fabric, where the first yarn is a warp and the second yam is a weft or vice-versa.
- the woven fabric may be a twill fabric, a canvas fabric, a statin fabric or the like.
- the woven fabric may be a 2/1 twill fabric with a basis weight between 100 g/m 2 and 300 g/m 2 , preferably between 150 g/m 2 and 250 g/m 2 , more preferably between 175 g/m 2 and 225 g/m 2 .
- the warp having between 20 and 60 ends/cm, preferably between 30 and 50 ends/cm, more preferably between 32 and 48 ends/cm.
- the weft having between 10 and 35 picks/cm, preferably between 15 and 30 picks/cm, more preferably between 18 and 28 picks/cm.
- Such a twill fabric may show excellent opacity and matte properties in both undyed and dyed state (using a wide variety of different dyes). Further, such fabric shows a high smoothness and softness, comparable to standard lyocell fibres.
- the second yarn also comprises lyocell fibres according to any of claims 1 to 5.
- the second yam can also comprise cotton fibres or other cellulosic fibres, such as man-made cellulosic fibres, or synthetic fibres, such as polyester, etc.
- the fabric has a wrinkle recovery rate of 60 % or greater.
- the wrinkle recovery rate is measured according to the standard AATCC 202-2020 (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) using a Phabrometer.
- the textile fabric has an opacity of 0.75 or greater, more preferably of 0.8 or greater.
- the fabric is a denim fabric and the first yam comprises an indigo dye on its surface. Due to the matted effect of the inventive fibres, denim fabrics made of said fibres have a solid matte effect, which can remain even after dyeing the fabrics with indigo dyestuff. Thus, the inventive fibre is perfectly suited for the application in indigo textiles, such as denim.
- the first and or second yarn are reactive dyed, direct dyed or vat dyed.
- the advantages of the inventive fibres are also obtained when dyeing with reactive dyes, direct dyeing or dyeing with vat dyes.
- Such fabrics as described above may advantageously used in textile articles, such as jeans, shirts, t-shirts, dresses, trousers, jackets, or the like.
- the invention is further demonstrated on examples of textiles made from the inventive lyocell fibres.
- the textile fabrics are compared with equivalent fabrics made from standard (unmatted) lyocell fibres and cotton fibres.
- a white undyed woven twill fabric was produced from a lyocell (CLY) fibre containing approx. 4 wt.-% BaSCU and approx. 0.75 wt.-% TiCL as matting agent according to the present invention (furthermore referred to as “CLY Matte twill fabric”).
- CLY lyocell
- the lyocell fibre thereby had a titre of 1.7 dtex and a staple length of 38 mm.
- Fabric construction was a 2/1 twill with a basis weight of approx. 200 g/m2, warp: 38 ends/cm, weft: 20 picks/cm.
- Yarn properties were approx. Ne 20 for warp and Ne 24 for weft.
- CLY Std. twill fabric For comparison, a standard lyocell fibre with a titre of 1.3 dtex and a staple length of 38 mm was used to produce a 2/1 twill fabric with properties as defined above (referred to as “CLY Std. twill fabric”).
- a denim woven twill fabric was produced from a lyocell fibre containing the same amounts and characteristics of matting agents as specified in Example 1 (referred to as “CLY Matte denim fabric”).
- the lyocell fibre also had a titre of 1.7 dtex and a staple length of 38 mm.
- Fabric construction was a 2/1 twill with a basis weight of approx. 200 g/m2, warp: 42 ends/cm, weft: 25 picks/cm. The warp has been indigo-dyed and the weft is left undyed.
- CLY Std. denim fabric and “Cotton denim fabric” with properties as defined above. Matte Property - Visual Evaluation
- the matte property of the fabrics of Examples 1 and 2 were evaluated visually by conducting an internal survey and, second, by analysing the CIELCh colour space (the CIELCh colour space is defined by the International Commission on Illumination).
- Fig. la the results of visual evaluation of fabrics according to Example 1 is shown. On the left, the survey of the white cotton twill fabric is shown; in the centre, the survey of the inventive white lyocell twill fabric with matting agent is shown and on the right, the survey of the standard lyocell twill fabric is shown.
- the white cotton twill fabric is perceived by 43 % of people as dull (1) and by 41 % of people as more or less dull (2). 0 % of people perceived the cotton twill fabric as shiny (5).
- the inventive matted lyocell twill fabric according to Example 1 is perceived by 43 % of people as neither dull nor shiny (3) and by 22 % of people as more or less dull (3). 7 % perceived it as dull (1), while 10 % perceived it as shiny (5).
- the standard lyocell twill fabric is perceived by 47 % of people as more or less shiny (4) and by even 12 % as shiny (5). 0 % considered the standard lyocell fabric as dull (1).
- Fig. lb the results of visual evaluation of fabrics according to Example 2 is shown. On the left, the survey of the cotton denim fabric is shown; in the centre, the survey of the inventive lyocell denim fabric with matting agent is shown; on the right, the survey of the standard lyocell denim fabric is shown.
- Example 1 and Example 2 fabrics are analysed by means of CieLCh colour space. All measurements are performed using a D65 light source under 10° angle.
- the L*C*h colour space is preferred by some industry professionals because its system correlates well with how the human eye perceives colour. It has the same diagram as the L*a*b* colour space but uses cylindrical coordinates instead of rectangular coordinates.
- L indicates lightness
- C represents chroma
- h is the hue angle.
- the value of chroma C is the distance from the lightness axis L and starts at 0 in the centre.
- Hue angle starts at the +a axis and is expressed in degrees (e.g., 0° is +a, or red, and 90° is +b, or yellow).
- the L-axis describes the lightness (luminance) of the colour. Positive L means that product has lighter colour. Negative L means that product has darker colour.
- the C-axis describes the chroma of a colour. Higher values mean brighter colour and lower value means duller colour.
- the h-axis describes the wrinkle hue.
- Table 1 the CieLCh-Values for inventive lyocell matte, lyocell std. and cotton denim fabrics according to Example 2 are presented.
- the values are represented as A-values with respect to the lyocell std. values as a reference. From said A-values, changes in the parameters can be easily discerned.
- the white twill fabrics according to Example 1 were dyed with either red, black and blue reactive dyestuffs, blue, green and orange direct dyes or yellow and red vat dyes at same dyeing conditions but at separate dyebaths, so that fibre property was the only differing parameter.
- Table 2 shows CieLCh values of lyocell matte, lyocell standard and cotton fabrics, respectively for the different dyes. Higher L-values of inventive lyocell matte fabric for almost all dyes/colours than for lyocell standard fabric proves less lightness/shininess of matte lyocell compared to standard lyocell. Dyed cotton fabric was found to have least lightness/shininess compared to matte lyocell and standard lyocell.
- Figures 2a-2c show the CIE LCh-Plots for reactive dyed textiles
- Figures 2d-2f show the CIE LCh-Plots for direct dyed textiles
- Figures 2g-2h show the CIE LCh-Plots for VAT dyed textiles, respectively.
- Figures 3a-3d show the determination of the gloss value of fabrics according to Examples 1 and 2 at 60° and 85°, respectively.
- the gloss value was determined according to DIN EN ISO 2813:2015-02 by means of a reflectometer REFO 3-D of Dr. Lange Company.
- the test was carried out on the sample on the right side of the goods (marked by the weaver). 10 measurements per angle setting were carried out on the sample material on a non-reflective background (black spectrometer paper). The measurements were made longitudinally, diagonally and transversely to the warp/weft direction of the material. The sample was air- conditioned at 20 °C, 65 % relative humidity for at least 24 h prior to the measurements
- Opacity in the context of the present invention refers to the opacity or opaqueness of the investigated textiles.
- the opacity is indicated as a unitless number between 0 and 1 (or 0% and 100%), whereby perfect transparency is present at 0, which decreases with increasing value. At 1, the respective material is completely opaque.
- opacity has been determined at a wavelength of 570 nm with a Konica Minolta CM600d spectrophotometer (Q425F168, Inv. No. 71559) including accessory set for calibration.
- Enclosed computer (laptop) with SpectramagicNX software was used for evaluation. Measurements have been calibrated using TQC-Test (Chart Art. No. VF2345 Batch No. 227270) and Green tile CM-A101GN.
- Opacity values were determined with the above setup following NWSP060.4.R0.20 (defined for measuring opacity of nonwovens).
- Figs. 4a - 4d SEM (scanning electron microscopy) images of the surface (Fig. 4a, 4b) and cross-section (Fig. 4c, 4d) of the lyocell matte fibres according to the present invention are depicted.
- FIG. 4e an SEM image of the surface of lyocell standard fibres is shown, and in Fig. 4e, the cross-section of a cotton fibre is depicted.
- the SEM images clearly show that the fibre surface is smooth without any visible defects caused by the incorporation of matting agents. This can also be discerned from the cross-section images, which show a smooth regular shape and cross-section without visible defects, as would be expected from lyocell fibres.
- the matting agent is finely dispersed in the fibre matrix and does not form agglomerations or the like.
- lyocell matte fibres according to the invention were tested according to the BISFA standard (“Testing methods for viscose staple fibers). Strength- and elongation values of the fibres are shown in Table 5. Thereby it can be discerned, that lyocell matte fibres have fibre strength and elongation similar to lyocell standard fibres without matting agents. Only a 6 % decrease in fibre strength can be observed.
- Fibre type Fibre strength (cN/tex) Fibre elongation (%)
- Softness and surface properties (roughness/smoothness) of undyed woven twill fabrics (Ne 20/1, 110 gsm) using the lyocell matte fibre (CLY Matte) according to the present invention and comparative fabric using standard lyocell fibre (CLY Std.) and cotton fibre were measured by a Tissue Softness Analyzer (TSA type B0458) device manufactured by Emtec Electronic (Germany).
- TSA Tissue Softness Analyzer
- the rotating part of the TSA generates noise while moving over the fabric surface, which is captured by a microphone and analysed into its amplitude signals.
- the signal peak (in dB V 2 rms) at 750 Hz (TS750) is a measure for the fabric vibration under the rotating part and should correlate with fabric smoothness, while the peak at 6500 Hz (TS7) occurs through the vibration on the rotating part itself while moving above the fabric surface and is considered a measure for the softness of surface fibres.
- inventive lyocell fibres comprising the matting agent according to the claims can maintain the high softness and smoothness as usually expected for lyocell fibres.
- Tissue Softness Analyser Test results for undyed woven twill fabrics
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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CN202280066000.4A CN118043508A (en) | 2021-09-28 | 2022-09-28 | Lyocell fibres comprising matting agents and their use for the production of textile fabrics |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
EP21199580.8A EP4155438A1 (en) | 2021-09-28 | 2021-09-28 | Lyocell fibre comprising a matting agent and its use for the production of a textile fabric |
EP21199580.8 | 2021-09-28 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2023052380A1 true WO2023052380A1 (en) | 2023-04-06 |
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PCT/EP2022/076890 WO2023052380A1 (en) | 2021-09-28 | 2022-09-28 | Lyocell fibre comprising a matting agent and its use for the production of a textile fabric |
Country Status (4)
Country | Link |
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EP (1) | EP4155438A1 (en) |
CN (1) | CN118043508A (en) |
TW (1) | TW202331036A (en) |
WO (1) | WO2023052380A1 (en) |
Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US5895795A (en) * | 1995-03-04 | 1999-04-20 | Akzo Nobel Nv | Composition containing fine solid particles |
WO2010144925A1 (en) | 2009-06-15 | 2010-12-23 | Lenzing Ag | Ultraviolet protective fabrics based on man-made cellulosic fibres |
WO2019068476A1 (en) * | 2017-10-06 | 2019-04-11 | Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft | Lyocell filament denim |
EP3511371A1 (en) * | 2018-01-15 | 2019-07-17 | Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft | Reuse of insoluble particles from a cellulose precursor |
WO2019170670A1 (en) * | 2018-03-06 | 2019-09-12 | Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft | Solvent-spun cellulosic fibre |
-
2021
- 2021-09-28 EP EP21199580.8A patent/EP4155438A1/en not_active Withdrawn
-
2022
- 2022-09-27 TW TW111136555A patent/TW202331036A/en unknown
- 2022-09-28 CN CN202280066000.4A patent/CN118043508A/en active Pending
- 2022-09-28 WO PCT/EP2022/076890 patent/WO2023052380A1/en unknown
Patent Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US5895795A (en) * | 1995-03-04 | 1999-04-20 | Akzo Nobel Nv | Composition containing fine solid particles |
WO2010144925A1 (en) | 2009-06-15 | 2010-12-23 | Lenzing Ag | Ultraviolet protective fabrics based on man-made cellulosic fibres |
WO2019068476A1 (en) * | 2017-10-06 | 2019-04-11 | Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft | Lyocell filament denim |
EP3511371A1 (en) * | 2018-01-15 | 2019-07-17 | Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft | Reuse of insoluble particles from a cellulose precursor |
WO2019170670A1 (en) * | 2018-03-06 | 2019-09-12 | Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft | Solvent-spun cellulosic fibre |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
---|
ABU-ROUS ET AL., J FASHION TECHNOL TEXTILE ENG, 2018, pages S4 |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
EP4155438A1 (en) | 2023-03-29 |
CN118043508A (en) | 2024-05-14 |
TW202331036A (en) | 2023-08-01 |
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