WO2023038353A1 - Composition cosmétique en émulsion de cristaux liquides de type huile dans l'eau (h/e) comprenant un émulsifiant hydrodispersible et un alcool d'ordre supérieur, et procédé de production associé - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique en émulsion de cristaux liquides de type huile dans l'eau (h/e) comprenant un émulsifiant hydrodispersible et un alcool d'ordre supérieur, et procédé de production associé Download PDF

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WO2023038353A1
WO2023038353A1 PCT/KR2022/012904 KR2022012904W WO2023038353A1 WO 2023038353 A1 WO2023038353 A1 WO 2023038353A1 KR 2022012904 W KR2022012904 W KR 2022012904W WO 2023038353 A1 WO2023038353 A1 WO 2023038353A1
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water
oil
cosmetic composition
liquid crystal
crystal emulsion
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PCT/KR2022/012904
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English (en)
Korean (ko)
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김선영
박현정
지진구
박명삼
Original Assignee
코스맥스 주식회사
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Publication of WO2023038353A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023038353A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an oil-in-water (O/W) liquid crystal emulsion cosmetic composition containing a water-dispersible emulsifier and a higher alcohol and a method for preparing the same.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • Emulsion refers to a state in which two immiscible liquids are dispersed in another liquid in the form of small droplets at a constant ratio.
  • this system often includes a third component, typically a surfactant.
  • surfactant molecules have the property of adsorbing to the interface and contribute to the stability of emulsification by orienting in one direction to form a film, making micelles in a solution to reduce surface tension, or forming an electric double layer.
  • HLB hydrophilic lipophilic balance
  • Emulsifiers rarely have good emulsion stability, and it is known that the use of complex emulsifiers improves stability. Emulsion generally requires high stability, and it is very important to select the optimal emulsifier in the emulsion system.
  • Emulsifiers adsorb on the interface between water and oil to lower interfacial tension, thereby easily generating emulsified particles and providing stability to the created system.
  • HLB indicates the ratio of hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups constituting the molecule of an emulsifier. If the value is high, the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group is also increased, and the emulsifier is micelle soluble in water, whereas if the value is low, it is understood to indicate the opposite property.
  • an emulsifier with a high HLB is advantageous for forming an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion
  • an emulsifier with a low HLB is advantageous for forming a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion.
  • a hydrophilic surfactant is generally selected, but the hydrophilic surfactant has low lipophilicity, so the surfactant to be adsorbed to the interface tends to be dispersed and dissolved in the aqueous phase.
  • lipophilic surfactants are selected, but since lipophilic surfactants have low hydrophilicity, surfactants to be adsorbed to the interface tend to be dispersed and dissolved in the oil phase, making it difficult to induce stabilization of the interface between water and oil.
  • Liquid crystal emulsions have a structure similar to the composition of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum of the skin, and emulsions are constantly being developed for the purpose of improving skin adhesion, excellent moisturizing effect, and effective delivery of active ingredients.
  • Liquid crystal forming agents are mostly composed of oil-dispersed nonionic surfactants and higher alcohols, and liquid crystal emulsions are formed in the step of adding an oil phase to an aqueous phase during the preparation of an oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic composition.
  • the inventors of the present invention have made intensive research efforts to develop a liquid crystal emulsion by dispersing an emulsifier capable of dispersing in water in an aqueous phase, dissolving a small amount of a higher alcohol in an oil phase and emulsifying it.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • an object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing an oil in water type (O/W) liquid crystal emulsion cosmetic composition comprising a water-dispersible emulsifier, a higher alcohol, and a skin conditioning agent.
  • O/W oil in water type
  • the present invention relates to an oil-in-water (O/W) liquid crystal emulsion cosmetic composition containing a water-dispersible emulsifier and a higher alcohol and a method for preparing the same.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • One aspect of the present invention relates to an oil in water type (O/W) liquid crystal emulsion cosmetic composition
  • O/W oil in water type liquid crystal emulsion cosmetic composition
  • a water-dispersible emulsifier emulsifier
  • a higher alcohol emulsifier
  • a skin conditioning agent emulsion cosmetic composition
  • the water-dispersible emulsifier is glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, hydrogenated lecithin, sucrose polystearate, C12-20 alkylglucoside, polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate polyglyceryl It may be at least one selected from the group consisting of -4 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate, It is not limited to this.
  • the water dispersion emulsifier is 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, 0.1 to 7.0% by weight, 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, 1.0 to 7.0% by weight, 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, 3.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition to 10.0% by weight, 3.0 to 7.0% by weight, 3.0 to 5.0% by weight, for example, 5.0% by weight may be included, but is not limited thereto.
  • the higher alcohol may be at least one selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol, C12-16 alcohol, C14-22 alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and myristyl alcohol, but is limited thereto. it is not going to be
  • the higher alcohol is 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, 0.01 to 4.0% by weight, 0.01 to 3.0% by weight, 0.01 to 2.0% by weight, 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition 4.0% by weight, 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, 0.5 to 2.0% by weight, 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, for example, 1.0% by weight may be included, but is not limited thereto.
  • the skin conditioning agent is caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetylethylhexanoate, ethylhexylpalmitate, ethylhexylstearate, neopentylglycoldicaprate, neopentylglycoldiethyl Hexanoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Triisostearin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Diisostearyl Maleate, Triethylhexanoin, Decyl Cocoate, Squalane, Di Methicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, vinyldimethicone, dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, a
  • the skin conditioning agent is 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, 0.1 to 15.0% by weight, 0.1 to 13.0% by weight, 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, 0.1 to 7.0% by weight, 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition to 3.0% by weight, 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, 1.0 to 13.0% by weight, 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, 1.0 to 7.0% by weight, 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, 1.0 to 3.0% by weight, for example , 2.0% by weight may be included, but is not limited thereto.
  • the cosmetic composition may further contain at least one selected from the group consisting of a moisturizing agent, a pH adjusting agent, a sequestering agent, a thickening agent, and a solvent, but is not limited thereto.
  • the moisturizing agent may be at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerin, butylene glycol, propanediol, methylpropanediol, and dipropylene glycol, but is not limited thereto.
  • the moisturizing agent is 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, 1.0 to 17.0% by weight, 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, 1.0 to 13.0% by weight, 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, 5.0 to 20.0% by weight, 5.0 to 17.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition 5.0 to 15.0 wt%, 5.0 to 13.0 wt%, 5.0 to 10.0 wt%, 8.0 to 20.0 wt%, 8.0 to 17.0 wt%, 8.0 to 15.0 wt%, 8.0 to 13.0 wt%, 8.0 to 10.0 wt% , For example, it may contain 10% by weight, but is not limited thereto.
  • the pH adjusting agent may be at least one selected from the group consisting of tromethamine, arginine, and sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, but is not limited thereto.
  • the pH adjusting agent may be included in 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, 0.01 to 3.0% by weight, 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, for example, 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is not limited.
  • the sequestering agent may be at least one selected from the group consisting of disodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, sodium phytate, and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate. , but is not limited thereto.
  • the sequestering agent may be contained in an amount of 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, 0.01 to 0.08, for example, 0.05% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, but is not limited thereto.
  • the thickener is acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acrylodimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/Vpicopolymer, It may be at least one selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate crosspolymer-11 and sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, but is not limited thereto.
  • the thickener may be included in 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, 0.01 to 3.0% by weight, 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, for example, 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is not limited.
  • Another aspect of the present invention relates to a method for producing an oil in water type (O/W) liquid crystal emulsion cosmetic composition
  • O/W oil in water type liquid crystal emulsion cosmetic composition
  • a water-dispersible emulsifier emulsifier
  • a higher alcohol emulsifier
  • a skin conditioning agent emulsion cosmetic composition
  • a cooling step of cooling the cream to form a liquid crystal emulsion A cooling step of cooling the cream to form a liquid crystal emulsion.
  • the first mixture may include one or more selected from the group consisting of a water dispersion emulsifier, a moisturizer, a pH adjusting agent, a sequestering agent, and a solvent, but is not limited thereto.
  • the first mixing step is 50 to 100 °C, 50 to 90 °C, 50 to 80 °C, 50 to 70 °C, 60 to 100 °C, 60 to 90 °C, 60 to 80 °C, 60 to 70 °C, eg
  • it may include a step of warming to 70 ° C., but is not limited thereto.
  • the second mixing step is 50 to 100 °C, 50 to 90 °C, 50 to 80 °C, 50 to 70 °C, 60 to 100 °C, 60 to 90 °C, 60 to 80 °C, 60 to 70 °C, eg
  • it may include a step of warming to 70 ° C., but is not limited thereto.
  • the third mixing step is 50 to 100 °C, 50 to 90 °C, 50 to 80 °C, 50 to 70 °C, 60 to 100 °C, 60 to 90 °C, 60 to 80 °C, 60 to 70 °C, eg
  • it may include a step of warming to 70 ° C., but is not limited thereto.
  • the fourth mixing step is 50 to 100 °C, 50 to 90 °C, 50 to 80 °C, 50 to 70 °C, 60 to 100 °C, 60 to 90 °C, 60 to 80 °C, 60 to 70 °C, eg
  • it may include a step of warming to 70 ° C., but is not limited thereto.
  • the cooling step may include a step of cooling to 10 to 50 °C, 10 to 40 °C, for example, 30 °C, but is not limited thereto.
  • the first mixing step is mixing for at least 1 minute, 1 to 60 minutes, 1 to 50 minutes, 1 to 40 minutes, 1 to 30 minutes, 1 to 20 minutes, 1 to 10 minutes, 1 to 5 minutes It may include steps, but is not limited thereto.
  • the second mixing step is mixing for at least 1 minute, 1 to 60 minutes, 1 to 50 minutes, 1 to 40 minutes, 1 to 30 minutes, 1 to 20 minutes, 1 to 10 minutes, 1 to 5 minutes It may include steps, but is not limited thereto.
  • the third mixing step is mixing for at least 1 minute, 1 to 60 minutes, 1 to 50 minutes, 1 to 40 minutes, 1 to 30 minutes, 1 to 20 minutes, 1 to 10 minutes, 1 to 5 minutes It may include steps, but is not limited thereto.
  • the method for preparing an oil-in-water (O/W) liquid crystal emulsion cosmetic composition may include stirring with at least one selected from the group consisting of an Azimixer and a homomixer, but is limited thereto it is not going to be
  • the cosmetic composition may contain any other component that is an adjuvant commonly used in the field of cosmetics or dermatology in an amount generally accepted in the field of dermatology.
  • the present invention relates to an oil-in-water (O / W) liquid crystal emulsion cosmetic composition containing a water-dispersible emulsifier and a higher alcohol and a method for preparing the same, wherein a water-dispersible emulsifier is dispersed in an aqueous phase, and a small amount of a higher alcohol is dissolved in the oil phase
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • FIG. 1 is a photograph showing a formulation of an example according to a preparation example of the present invention.
  • Figure 2 is a photograph showing a formulation of a comparative example according to one preparation example of the present invention.
  • Figure 3 is a photograph showing the polarization microscope observation results of an embodiment according to an experimental example of the present invention.
  • FIG. 4 is a photograph showing a polarization microscope observation result of a comparative example according to an experimental example of the present invention.
  • Figure 5 is a graph showing the results after measuring the amount of change (A.U) of skin moisture over time in Examples and Comparative Examples according to an experimental example of the present invention.
  • An oil-in-water (O/W) liquid crystal emulsion cosmetic composition comprising a water-dispersible emulsifier, a higher alcohol, and a skin conditioning agent.
  • Water phase components were weighed according to the ingredients and contents of Table 1, and the aqueous phase was prepared by dispersing at 70 ° C. at 3500 rpm using a homo mixer at 3500 rpm for 5 minutes to uniformly disperse the emulsifier in the water phase.
  • the ingredients of the oil phase were weighed in a separate mixer, and stirred and dissolved at 1000 rpm for 1 minute in a homomixer at 70 ° C. to prepare an oil phase part. Then, after putting the prepared oil phase part into the water phase part, the emulsion was formed by stirring at 70 ° C. for 5 minutes with a homomixer at 3500 rpm.
  • the thickening agent was directly added to the emulsion and dispersed at 70 ° C. at 3500 rpm in a homomixer for 5 minutes to form a cream.
  • An example was prepared by cooling the prepared cream to 30 °C.
  • a liquid crystal emulsion is formed in the process of introducing the oil phase part into the water phase part, and the emulsifier and waxes dissolved in the cooling process harden to form a liquid crystal cream.
  • Example results are shown in FIG. 1 .
  • the embodiment shows the formulation of a semi-emulsified cream with a feeling of moisture.
  • the reason for such a semi-emulsified cream formulation is that the oil content of the oil phase can be minimized and the moisture content is high because a water-dispersible emulsifier is used.
  • Water phase components were weighed according to the components and contents of Table 2, and dissolved at 70 °C in a homomixer at 1000 rpm for 1 minute to prepare an aqueous phase.
  • the ingredients of the oil phase were weighed in a separate mixer and stirred at 70 ° C. at 3500 rpm in a homomixer for 5 minutes to prepare an oil phase.
  • an emulsion was formed by stirring at 70° C. for 5 minutes with a homomixer at 3500 rpm.
  • a thickening agent was directly introduced into the emulsion and dispersed at 70 ° C. for 5 minutes with a homomixer at 3500 rpm to prepare a cream.
  • the prepared cream was cooled to 30 ° C. to prepare a comparative example, and the results are shown in FIG. 2 .
  • Comparative Examples dispersed the emulsifier in the aqueous phase and reduced the oil content to 1/5, thereby forming a liquid crystal emulsion even with a minimum oil content, representing a stable formulation.
  • a corneometer sensor was used to measure the amount of moisture present in the skin epidermis.
  • a corniometer is a machine that measures and digitizes the ion level of moisture to check the skin's moisturizing power. Skin moisture level was expressed as a relative measurement unit (A.U, Arbitrary Unit), and was conducted under conditions of constant temperature of 24 ° C and constant humidity (relative humidity) of 40%. The skin moisture content was measured before and after application and at the time of 4 and 8 hours after application. confirmed by After the measurement, the sensor was wiped with a tissue such as Kim's wipe, and the measurement was repeated several times at different measurement sites, and the change in skin moisture content over time is shown in Table 3 and FIG. 5 below.
  • the skin surface is formed with a moisturizing film by the liquid crystal emulsion, resulting in the same level as the comparative example containing a large amount of oil. showed a moisturizing effect.
  • the embodiment formed a liquid crystal emulsion even with a minimum oil content, and exhibited an excellent effect on skin moisturizing through the formation of liquid crystal.
  • the present invention relates to an oil-in-water (O/W) liquid crystal emulsion cosmetic composition containing a water-dispersible emulsifier and a higher alcohol and a method for preparing the same.
  • O/W oil-in-water

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne : une composition cosmétique en émulsion de cristaux liquides de type huile dans l'eau (H/E) comprenant un émulsifiant hydrodispersible et un alcool d'ordre supérieur ; et un procédé de production associé. Grâce à la production d'une émulsion de cristaux liquides par dispersion d'un émulsifiant hydrodispersible dans une partie phase aqueuse et dissolution d'une petite quantité d'un alcool d'ordre supérieur dans une partie phase huileuse, il est possible de minimiser la teneur en la partie phase huileuse, au contraire des émulsions existantes de cristaux liquides, dans lesquelles une grande quantité de la partie phase huileuse est présente, et une composition cosmétique en émulsion de type huile dans l'eau (H/E) qui humidifie sans donner une sensation lourde et huileuse peut être préparée par minimisation de la teneur en la partie phase huileuse.
PCT/KR2022/012904 2021-09-10 2022-08-30 Composition cosmétique en émulsion de cristaux liquides de type huile dans l'eau (h/e) comprenant un émulsifiant hydrodispersible et un alcool d'ordre supérieur, et procédé de production associé WO2023038353A1 (fr)

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KR1020210121019A KR102663347B1 (ko) 2021-09-10 2021-09-10 수분산 유화제 및 고급 알코올을 포함하는 수중유형 (o/w) 액정 에멀젼 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조 방법
KR10-2021-0121019 2021-09-10

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR20040002317A (ko) * 2002-06-29 2004-01-07 풀무원건강생활 주식회사 전상온도유화 방식을 이용한 Pseudomicroemulsion의제조공정 및 조성물
KR101485232B1 (ko) * 2010-01-29 2015-01-22 브라스터 에스에이 수중유 유형의 액정 에멀젼 및 액정 에멀젼의 제조 방법
KR20160116877A (ko) * 2015-03-31 2016-10-10 (주)아모레퍼시픽 라멜라 액정 구조를 가지는 다중 에멀전 제형의 화장료 조성물
KR102140251B1 (ko) * 2020-03-26 2020-07-31 하승열 초임계수 처리 사과세포배양추출물을 포함하는 액정수화 화장료 조성물
JP2021109123A (ja) * 2020-01-08 2021-08-02 旭化成ワッカーシリコーン株式会社 液晶乳化方法および液晶乳化物

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR20040002317A (ko) * 2002-06-29 2004-01-07 풀무원건강생활 주식회사 전상온도유화 방식을 이용한 Pseudomicroemulsion의제조공정 및 조성물
KR101485232B1 (ko) * 2010-01-29 2015-01-22 브라스터 에스에이 수중유 유형의 액정 에멀젼 및 액정 에멀젼의 제조 방법
KR20160116877A (ko) * 2015-03-31 2016-10-10 (주)아모레퍼시픽 라멜라 액정 구조를 가지는 다중 에멀전 제형의 화장료 조성물
JP2021109123A (ja) * 2020-01-08 2021-08-02 旭化成ワッカーシリコーン株式会社 液晶乳化方法および液晶乳化物
KR102140251B1 (ko) * 2020-03-26 2020-07-31 하승열 초임계수 처리 사과세포배양추출물을 포함하는 액정수화 화장료 조성물

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