WO2022251527A1 - Compositions et procédés de traitement de fibres de kératine - Google Patents

Compositions et procédés de traitement de fibres de kératine Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022251527A1
WO2022251527A1 PCT/US2022/031172 US2022031172W WO2022251527A1 WO 2022251527 A1 WO2022251527 A1 WO 2022251527A1 US 2022031172 W US2022031172 W US 2022031172W WO 2022251527 A1 WO2022251527 A1 WO 2022251527A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
cyclodextrin
composition
chosen
ranges
Prior art date
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PCT/US2022/031172
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English (en)
Inventor
Rachel FEREBEE MAHER
Allison PERNER
Stephanie Midori Laga
Vibha K. SHAH
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication date
Priority claimed from US17/332,695 external-priority patent/US20220401344A1/en
Priority claimed from FR2109208A external-priority patent/FR3126618B1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2022251527A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022251527A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/738—Cyclodextrins
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8176—Homopolymers of N-vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers

Definitions

  • the present disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating keratinous fibers, such as curly or wavy hair.
  • the compositions provide temporary straightening properties to the hair.
  • the disclosure also relates to methods of using the compositions.
  • Traditional hair-straightening products generally include heavy galenics or oils, which may leave an undesirable greasy or oily feeling. Products that provide hold, such as styling gels, can also give straightening effects, but these products typically flake on hair. In addition, many hair straightening products involve heat or chemical treatments that may cause damage to the hair fibers and/or irritate the scalp.
  • compositions that can provide straightening effects to curly or wavy hair, and at the same time impart various additional advantageous properties to the hair such as softness, smoothness, bounce, shine, and/or frizz control.
  • compositions comprising at least one cyclodextrin and at least one film former are able to effectively straighten curly or wavy hair without the use of heat, while at the same time delivering additional advantageous benefits to the hair.
  • compositions for treating keratinous fibers such as curly or wavy hair.
  • the compositions may provide beneficial effects such as straightening the hair and/or providing one or more of softness, smoothness, shine, and/or frizz control to the hair.
  • the compositions are optionally leave-in compositions.
  • compositions may comprise, in certain embodiments: (a) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (b) at least one film former; and (c) at least one solvent, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof to the at least one film former ranges from about 1 :1 to about 25:1 , preferably from about 2:1 to about 25:1 , more preferably from about 2:1 to about 20:1.
  • the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof may be chosen from those of formula (I): where R is chosen from H, CFb, or a hydroxypropyl group, and n ranges from 6-8.
  • the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof may be a-cyclodextrin, 3- cyclodextrin, y-cyclodextrin, methyl-a-cyclodextrin, methyl-3-cyclodextrin, methyl-y- cyclodextrin, or a mixture of any two or more of the foregoing.
  • the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%.
  • the at least one solvent comprises water and at least one additional solvent, where the at least one additional solvent may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted C2-C8 polyols.
  • the weight ratio of cyclodextrin :additional solvent ranges from about 5:1 to about 1 :5, preferably from about 3:1 to 1 :3.
  • the at least one additional solvent is chosen from hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, or a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one film former is chosen from anionic compounds or polymers, non-ionic compounds or polymers, amphoteric compounds or polymers, zwitterionic compounds or polymers, cationic compounds or polymers, proteins, viscosity modifiers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyacrylate copolymers, polymethacrylate copolymers, polyamides, polyaminoamides, polyesters, polysaccharides, polyacrylamides, starches, gums, or mixtures thereof, such as, for example, carrageenan, xanthan gum, polyvinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one film former may, in certain embodiments, be present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Various compositions according to the disclosure may further optionally comprise at least one acid, for example at least one acid having at least one hydroxyl group, which may optionally be present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one acid may be chosen from chosen from carboxylic acids and/or acids other than carboxylic acids, such as, for example, citric acid, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the disclosure may comprise: (a) from about 0.3% to about 10% of at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (b) from about 0.1% to about 3% of at least one film former; (c) at least one solvent comprising water and at least one additional solvent, wherein the at least one additional solvent is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%; and (d) optionally at least one acid comprising at least one hydroxyl group; wherein the weight ratio of the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof to the at least one film former ranges from about 3:1 to about 25:1.
  • the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof may be chosen from those of formula (I):
  • the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof may be a-cyclodextrin, 3- cyclodextrin, y-cyclodextrin, methyl-a-cyclodextrin, methyl-3-cyclodextrin, methyl-y- cyclodextrin, or a mixture of any two or more of the foregoing.
  • the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is present in an amount ranging from about 0.3% to about 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%.
  • the at least one solvent comprises water and at least one additional solvent, which may, for example, be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted C2-C8 polyols.
  • the weight ratio of cyclodextrin :additional solvent ranges from about 5:1 to about 1 :5.
  • the at least one additional solvent is chosen from hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, or a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one film former is chosen from anionic compounds or polymers, non-ionic compounds or polymers, amphoteric compounds or polymers, zwitterionic compounds or polymers, cationic compounds or polymers, proteins, viscosity modifiers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyacrylate copolymers, polymethacrylate copolymers, polyamides, polyaminoamides, polyesters, polysaccharides, polyacrylamides, starches, gums, or mixtures thereof, such as, for example, carrageenan, xanthan gum, polyvinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one film former may, in certain embodiments, be present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Exemplary compositions comprise at least one acid, for example at least one acid having at least one hydroxyl group, which may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one acid may be chosen from chosen from carboxylic acids and/or acids other than carboxylic acids, such as, for example, citric acid, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof.
  • the compositions comprise: (a) from about 0.3% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% of b-cyclodextrin, a derivative thereof, or a mixture thereof; (b) from about 0.1% to about 3% of at least one film former chosen from carrageenan, xanthan gum, polyvinylpyyrolidone, or mixtures thereof; (c) a solvent comprising water and at least one additional solvent chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted C2-C8 polyols; and (d) from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, of at least one acid, preferably chosen from citric acid, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from citric acid, ascorbic acid, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof, wherein
  • the compositions comprise: (a) at least one cyclodextrin chosen from b-cyclodextrin; (b) at least one film former chosen from carrageenan, xanthan gum, polyvinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures thereof; (c) a solvent comprising water and at least one additional solvent chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted C2-C8 polyols; and (d) at least one acid comprising at least one hydroxyl group, preferably chosen citric acid, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from citric acid, ascorbic acid, or a mixture thereof, wherein the weight ratio of (a):(b) ranges from about 3:1 to about 25:1 , preferably from about 5:1 to about 20:1 , more preferably from about 7:1
  • the disclosure further relates to methods of using the compositions, for example methods of treating hair, methods of temporarily straightening hair, and/or methods of reducing frizz, wherein the methods comprise applying the composition to wet, damp, or dry hair.
  • the compositions are left on the hair for a period of a few hours to a few days, for example until the hair is washed.
  • the methods do not include the use of a reducing agent, and/or do not include a step of heating the hair.
  • FIG. 1 is a graph showing the number of passes required to break the film that had formed on each of compositions 1 A-11 after drying.
  • FIGS. 2A-2D show images of hair swatches treated with compositions 1 A-11 at TO, TOcomb, T1 H, and T8H.
  • FIG. 3 is a graph demonstrating the relative change in curl for swatches treated with compositions 1 A-1 1 from TOcomb to T1 H to T8H.
  • FIGS. 4A-4D show images of hair swatches treated with compositions 2A-2I at TO, TOcomb, T1 H, and T8H.
  • FIG. 5 is a graph demonstrating the relative change in curl for swatches treated with compositions 2A-2I from TOcomb to T1 H to T8H.
  • FIG. 6 is a graph showing the number of passes required to break the film that had formed on each of compositions 3A-3H after drying.
  • FIGS. 7A-7D show images of hair swatches treated with compositions 3A-3H at TO, TOcomb, T1 H, and T8H.
  • FIG. 8 is a graph demonstrating the relative change in curl for swatches treated with compositions 3A-3H from TOcomb to T1 H to T8H.
  • FIG. 9 is a graph showing the number of passes required to break the film that had formed on each of compositions 4A-4F after drying.
  • FIGS. 10A-10D show images of hair swatches treated with compositions 4A- 4F at TO, TOcomb, T1 H, and T8H.
  • FIG. 11 is a graph demonstrating the relative change in curl for swatches treated with compositions 4A-4F from TOcomb to T1 H to T8H.
  • compositions for treating hair relate to compositions for treating hair, as well as to methods of using the compositions.
  • compositions according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (b) at least one film former; (c) at least one solvent; and (d) optionally at least one acid.
  • compositions according to the disclosure may provide temporary straightening effects to the hair, and in at least some embodiments may provide additional benefits such as softness, smoothness, shine, and/or frizz control to the hair.
  • Compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one cyclodextrin, which includes derivatives thereof.
  • Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides consisting of a macrocyclic ring of glucose subunits joined by a-1 ,4 glycosidic bonds.
  • cyclodextrins that can be used include those of formula (I): wherein:
  • R is chosen from H, Chb, or a hydroxypropyl group, and n ranges from 6-8.
  • a-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W6 PHARMA b-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W7 PHARMA, or g-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W8 PHARMA can be used.
  • methyl-a-cyclodextrin 6
  • methyl-3-cyclodextrin 7
  • the methyl-3-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVASOL W7 may be chosen.
  • the at least one cyclodextrin may comprise a mixture of cyclodextrins and/or derivatives thereof.
  • the at least one cyclodexctrin may be a mixture of two or more cyclodextrins chosen from a-cyclodextrin, a derivative of a-cyclodextrin, b-cyclodextrin, a derivative of b-cyclodextrin, y-cyclodextrin and/or a derivative of g-cyclodextrin.
  • the at least one cyclodextrin comprises or consists essentially of b-cyclodextrin and/or derivatives thereof.
  • the cyclodextrin is only b-cyclodextrin, and no other cyclodextrins or derivatives thereof are present in the composition.
  • the at least one cyclodextrin may be present in the compositions in an amount of about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 18%, about 0.5% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one cyclodextrin is present in the composition with a total amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 15%, by weight, for example, from about 0.5% to about 12%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1 % to about 12%, from about 1 % to about 10%, from about 1 % to about 9%, from about 1 % to about 8%, from about 1 % to about 7%, from about 1 % to about 6%, from about 1 % to about 5%, from about 1 % to about 4%, from about 1 % to about 3%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 12%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about
  • the at least one cyclodextrin comprises or consists of b-cyclodextrin, a derivative thereof, or a mixture thereof, and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.5%% to about 7%, most preferably from about 1% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges thereof.
  • compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more film formers.
  • film former means an agent or polymer capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a substantially continuous film that adheres to a support, and especially to keratin materials.
  • the film former(s) is not crosslinked with the cyclodextrin(s).
  • film formers that may be used, mention may be made of, for example, anionic compounds or polymers, non-ionic compounds or polymers, amphoteric compounds or polymers, zwitterionic compounds or polymers, cationic compounds or polymers, proteins, viscosity modifiers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyacrylate copolymers, polymethacrylate copolymers, polyamides, polyaminoamides, polyesters, polysaccharides, polyacrylamides, starches, gums, or mixtures of two or more of the foregoing.
  • the film former(s) may be synthetic, semi-synthetic, natural, or plant-based.
  • the film former(s) may be chosen from anionic polymers.
  • anionic film forming polymers that can be used include polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, or phosphoric acid and have a number-average molecular weight of ranging from approximately 500 and 5,000,000.
  • the carboxylic groups may be provided by unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula (II): wherein n is an integer from 0 to 10, Ai denotes a methylene group optionally joined to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the adjacent methylene group when n is greater than 1 , via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, Rz denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, Rs denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, and R9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, or a CH2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl group.
  • unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula (II): wherein n is an integer from 0 to 10, Ai denotes a methylene group optionally joined to the carbon atom of the
  • anionic film forming polymers comprising carboxylic groups which may be used include:
  • the cationic film forming film-forming polymers that can be used include polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight of ranging from 500 and about 5,000,000 and preferably ranging from 1000 and 3,000,000.
  • the cationic film-forming polymer may be chosen from: (A) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, such as (i) quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat® 734 or Gafquat® 755 or Gafquat® 755N (INCI name Polyquaternium-11), or alternatively the products known as Copolymer® 845, 958 and 937 sold by ISP (INCI name VP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer), (ii) fatty-chain polymers containing a vinylpyrrolidone unit, such as the products sold under the name Styleze® W20L and Styleze® W10 by the company ISP (INCI name Polyquaternium-55),
  • Exemplary amphoteric film-forming polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be selected from polymers comprising units B and C distributed statistically in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C may denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers, or B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon-based group, or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer comprising an a,b-dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polymers comprising
  • the amphoteric film-forming polymer may be chosen from: (A) copolymers containing acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, a-chloroacrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide, such as described in U.S. Patent No.
  • polymers comprising units deriving from (i) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group (e.g. N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N -tert- octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide, or the corresponding methacrylamides), (ii) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups (e.g.
  • non-ionic film-forming polymers may be chosen from polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers; vinyl acetate copolymers, for instance copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate;homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters, for instance copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products provided by the company Rohm GmbH under the name Eudragit® NE 30 D (INCI name Acrylates copolymer); copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a non-ionic monomer, chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates; styrene homopolymers; styrene copolymers, for instance copolymers of sty
  • Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides that can be chosen include oxidized inulins, celluloses, starches, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, alginate gums, agar-agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, chitosan, gums arabic, xyloses and tragacanth gums, and derivatives thereof, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin and hyaluronic acid, or mixtures thereof.
  • gums that may be chosen include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, hydroxypropyl guar, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, karaya gum, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, or any mixtures thereof.
  • Non-cellulose cationic polysaccharides such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • Suitable cationic guar gum derivatives include those given the PCPC (Personal Care Products Council, formerly CTFA, designation) of guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, available commercially for example as JAGUAR C13S.
  • Other suitable materials include that known as JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17, and JAGUAR C16 which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups.
  • Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride may also be available commercially for example as N-FIANCE CG13 from the company Ashland. Also suitable is hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available as JAGUAR 162.
  • the film former(s) may be chosen from PVM/MA (Poly(methyl vinyl ether-alt-maleic acid) (e.g., sold under the name Gantrez®), carrageenan, gum Arabic, oxidized inulin, alginate, xanthan gum, xylan, chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polysilicone 8, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethylsiloxane/3-thiopropyl methyl siloxane copolymer, vinylpyyrolidone/vinylacetate copolymer, polyvinyacetate, starch, cellulose, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-11 , acrylates/steareth-2 methacrylate crosspolymer, vinylacetate/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer, polyester-5, cetyl ethylhexanoate, vinyl acetate, crotonate/vinyl neode
  • PVM/MA Poly(
  • the total amount of the film former present may vary, but typically ranges from about 0.001% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.05% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2%, or about 0.25% to about 1%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of film former may range from about 0.01% to about 10%, about 0.01% to about 9%, about 0.01% to about 8%, about 0.01% to about 7%, about 0.01% to about 6%, about 0.01% to about 5%, about 0.01% to about 4%, about 0.01% to about 3%, about 0.01% to about 2%, about 0.01% to about 1%, about 0.1% to about 10%, about 0.1% to about 9%, about 0.1% to about 8%, about 0.1% to about 7%, about 0.1% to about 6%, about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.1% to about 1%, about 0.25% to about 10%, about 0.25% to about 9%, about 0.25% to about 8%, about 0.25% to about 7%, about 0.25% to about 6%, about 0.25% to about 5%, about 0.25% to about 4%, about 0.25% to about 3%, about 0.25% to about
  • the at least one film forming polymer may be present in an amount of ranging from about 0.1% to about 1%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 0.8%, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 0.7%, more preferably still from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, or is about 0.5%, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one film former comprises carrageenan, xanthan gum, polyvinylpyyrolidone, or any mixture thereof, and is present in a total amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 2%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 1%, most preferably from about 0.3% to about 0.8%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the ratio of cyclodextrin :film former may be at least about 1 :1 , at least about 2:1 , or at least about 3:1 , and may range up to about 25:1.
  • the ratio of cyclodextrin :film former may range from about 1 :1 to about 25:1 , preferably from about 1 :1 to about 20:1 , about 2:1 to about 20:1 , about 3:1 to about 20:1 , about 4:1 to about 20:1, about 5:1 to about 20:1 , about 6:1 to about 20:1 , about 7:1 to about 20:1 , about 8:1 to about 20:1 , about 9:1 to about 20:1 , or about 10:1 to about 20:1.
  • the ratio of cyclodextrin :film former may be about 1 :1 , about 2:1 , about 3:1 , about 4:1 , about 5:1 , about 6:1 , about 7:1 , about 8:1 , about 9:1 , about 10:1 , about 11 :1, about 12:1 , about 13:1 , about 14:1 , about 15:1 , about 16:1 , about 17:1 , about 18:1, about 19:1 , or about 20:1, including all ranges using any of the aforementioned ratios as endpoints.
  • the ratio of cyclodextrin :film former may range from about 5:1 to about 25:1 , about 7:1 to about 25:1 , or about 10:1 to about 25:1.
  • the at least one film former comprises carrageenan, xanthan gum, polyvinylpyyrolidone, or any mixture thereof, and the ratio of cyclodextrin :film former ranges from about 1 :1 to about 25:1, preferably from about 1 :1 to about 20:1 , more preferably from about 2:1 to about 20:1.
  • the at least one film former comprises carrageenan, xanthan gum, or a mixture thereof, and the ratio of cyclodextrin :film former ranges from about 1 :1 to about 25:1, preferably from about 1 :1 to about 20:1 , more preferably from about 2:1 to about 20:1.
  • the at least one film former comprises polyvinylpyyrolidone, and the ratio of cyclodextrin :film former ranges from about 5:1 to about 25:1 , preferably from about 5:1 to about 20:1 , more preferably from about 10:1 to about 20:1.
  • compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents.
  • the solvent(s) may be chosen from water, non-aqueous solvents, or mixtures thereof.
  • the total amount of solvent in the composition may range from about 50% to about 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the total amount of solvent may be about 50% to about 98%, about 60% to about 98%, about 70% to about 98%, about 70% to about 95%, about 75% to 95%, or about 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the solvent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of water.
  • the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more non-aqueous solvents.
  • non-aqueous solvents For example, C1-4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials, or any mixture thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of solvents which may be used include alkane polyols such as, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2- hexanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1 ,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, and isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol); glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethy
  • the solvent comprises water and at least one additional solvent.
  • additional solvents may include those non-aqueous solvents described above.
  • the at least one additional solvent may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted polyols, for example C2-C8 polyols or C3-C6 polyols, such as diols and/or triols. Any stereoisomer of the polyols may be used.
  • the C2-C8 polyols may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and mixtures thereof.
  • glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition is free or substantially free of propylene glycol. In further embodiments, the composition is free or substantially free of glycols having more than two hydroxyl groups.
  • the solvent comprises water and at least one additional solvent, where the at least one additional solvent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, or a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one additional solvent can be present in the composition in a total amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, for example from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1 % to about 8%, from about 1 % to about 7%, from about 1 % to about 6%, from about 1 % to about 5%, from about 1 % to about 4%, from about 1 % to about 3%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 2% to about 3%,
  • the amount of the at least one additional solvent is chosen such that it is present in a particular weight ratio of cyclodextrin :additional solvent ranging from about 5:1 to about 1 :5, preferably from about 4:1 to about 1 :4, more preferably from about 3:1 to about 1 :3, more preferably still from about 2.5:1 to about 1 :2.5, most preferably from about 2:1 to about 1 :2, including all ranges and subranges thereof.
  • the ratio of cyclodextrin additional solvent may be about 0.5:1 , about 0.5:1.5, about 0.5:2, about 0.5:2.5, about 1 :1 , about 1 :1.5, about 1 :2.5, about 1.5:2, or about 1.5:2.5, including all ranges using any of the aforementioned ratios as endpoints.
  • the solvent is primarily comprised of water, such as from about 85% to about 99%, or about 90% to about 98%, by weight of the total solvent, with the remainder of the solvent comprising one or more additional solvents.
  • compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise at least one acid with at least one hydroxyl group, which includes expressly includes salts thereof whether or not specifically recited.
  • the acids which may be used include, in various embodiments, mono-carboxylic acids (one carboxylic group) or poly-carboxylic acids (two or more carboxylic groups).
  • the carboxylic acids are non-polymeric carboxylic acids.
  • the carboxylic acids may be chosen, in certain embodiments, from those having a molecular weight of less than about 900 g/mol, such as less than about 700 g/mol, less than about 500 g/mol, less than about 300 g/mol, or less than about 200 g/mol. Acids other than carboxylic acids may also be chosen.
  • the at least one acid may be chosen from mono- carboxylic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, entanthic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecylic acid, lauric acid, tridecylic acid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachidic acid, lactic acid, or salts thereof.
  • mono- carboxylic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, entanthic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecylic acid, lauric acid, tridecylic acid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid
  • the at least one acid may be chosen from di-carboxylic acids such as ascorbic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, or salts thereof.
  • di-carboxylic acids such as ascorbic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid,
  • the at least one acid may be chosen from tri carboxylic acids such as citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid, propane-1, 2,3- tricarboxylic acid, benzene-1 ,3,5-tricarboxylic acid, or salts thereof.
  • the at least one acid may be chosen from acids that have at least one hydroxyl group other than carboxylic acids, such as, for example, phytic acid.
  • the compositions comprise a mixture of two or more acids or salts thereof.
  • the compositions may comprise a mixture of two or more mono-carboxylic acids or salts thereof, or may comprise a mixture or two or more poly-carboxylic acids or salts thereof, such as two or more di-carboxylic acids, two or more tri-carboxylic acids, or a mixture of one or more di-carboxylic acids and one or more tri-carboxylic acids.
  • Mixtures of one or more mono-carboxylic or salts thereof with one or more poly-carboxylic acids or salts thereof are also contemplated.
  • mixtures of carboxylic acids and acids other than carboxylic acids are also envisioned.
  • the compositions comprise only one acid or a salt thereof.
  • the at least one acid is chosen from citric acid, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid, salts thereof, or a mixture of two or more of the foregoing.
  • the at least one acid comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of citric acid, ascorbic acid, salts thereof, or a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one acid or salt thereof may be present in the compositions in an amount of about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof is present in the composition with a total amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5%, by weight, for example, from about 0.01% to about 4%, about 0.01% to about 3%, about 0.01% to about 2.5%, about 0.01% to about 2%, about 0.01% to about 1.5%, about 0.01% to about 1%, about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2.5%, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.1% to about 1.5%, about 0.1% to about 1%, about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 3%, about 0.5% to about 2.5%, about 0.5% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1 .5%, or about 0.5% to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges thereof.
  • the total amount of the at least one acid or salt thereof is present in the composition with a total amount
  • the amount of the at least one acid may be chosen such that it is present in a particular weight ratio of cyclodextrin :acid ranging from about 8:1 to about 1 :8, preferably from about 7:1 to about 1 :7, about 6:1 to about 1 :6, about 5:1 to about 1 :5, about 4:1 to about 1 :4, from about 3:1 to about 1 :3, or from about 2.5:1 to about 1 :2.5, most preferably from about 2:1 to about 1 :2, including all ranges and subranges thereof.
  • the ratio of cyclodextrin additional solvent may be about 5:1, about 4:1 , about 3:1 , about 2:1 , or about 1 :1 , including all ranges using any of the aforementioned ratios as endpoints.
  • compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise any additional or auxiliary component suitable for use in such compositions.
  • Such components may include, but are not limited to, conditioning agents, dyes/pigments, moisturizing agents, fillers, structuring agents, shine agents, antioxidants, penetrants, sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, plant extracts, preserving agents (preservatives), opacifiers, sunscreen agents, pH adjusting agents, vitamins, and antistatic agents.
  • Optional additional auxiliary components may be present in an amount ranging up to about 15%, such as from about 0.01% to about 15%, about 0.1% to about 10%, or about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compositions may have a pH less than or equal to about 7, preferably from about 3 to about 7, more preferably from about 4 to about 7, most preferably from about 5 to about 7.
  • the pH of the compositions may range from about 2 to about 7, preferably from about 3 to about 6, more preferably from about 3.5 to about 5.5, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • compositions according to the disclosure are typically in the form of a liquid, cream, paste, foam, gel, or lotion, but are not limited to these forms.
  • the compositions may be in a bottle, tube, or pump-style bottle.
  • the compositions are a non-aerosol type product.
  • the present disclosure also relates to methods for treating keratin fibers, e.g. styling hair, for example by temporarily straightening curly or wavy hair by application of the compositions described herein to the hair.
  • the methods generally comprise applying any of the compositions according to the disclosure to the hair.
  • compositions may be useful in a variety of settings, either for chemically treated or untreated hair, and/or for natural or unnatural curls.
  • the degree of curliness or curl type of the hair may vary and is not limited.
  • the curls of hair been treated by the compositions disclosed herein may range from slightly wavy to very kinky and coily hair, and may have different textures and colors.
  • compositions may also be used to provide a variety of desirable sensory benefits, for example, moisture, smoothness, softness, shine, and/or anti-frizz properties, to the hair.
  • desirable sensory benefits for example, moisture, smoothness, softness, shine, and/or anti-frizz properties
  • the compositions are useful in styling (which includes shaping) hair while also caring for hair, conditioning hair, and/or imparting one or more above described sensory benefits to the hair.
  • methods according to the disclosure may include applying an effective amount of a composition disclosed herein to hair having waves or curls, when the hair is dry, wet, damp, or moist.
  • the hair may be either natural or synthetic hair.
  • the term “effective amount” refers to an amount sufficient to provide a desired straightening effect to the hair, taking into account the degree of curliness, the length, the volume, and the texture of the hair, and/or an amount sufficient to provide a desired sensory benefit to the hair. In general, from about 0.5 grams to about 50 grams of product is applied to the hair, depending on the specific product formulation, hair length, hair volume, and hair style type.
  • the composition applied to the hair may, for example, be distributed evenly by combing through with fingers or a means such as a comb or the like.
  • the composition may then be dried, for example air-dried.
  • the composition may be allowed to remain on the hair as a leave-in product for any period of time as needed, for example, a few hours or a few days, or until the next washing or rinsing of the hair.
  • the compositions may be rinsed from the hair after a brief leave-in period, from about a few seconds (e.g. 5, 10, 20, 30, or 60 seconds) to about 10, 20, or 30 minutes, or longer.
  • the hair before applying the composition to the hair, the hair may be first cleansed with a commercially available shampoo, and/or rinsed with water, and/or dried. The composition may then be applied to the washed and/or rinsed hair when the hair is wet, damp, moist, or dry.
  • the hair before applying the composition to dry hair, the hair can optionally be moistened, damped, or wetted by water spray or using a wet towel, or by applying other treatment compositions that make the hair moist, damp, or wet.
  • the hair after application of the compositions disclosed herein, the hair may be shaped or styled as needed, such as twisted or the like. In some embodiments, the hair treated with the compositions may be twisted within 30 minutes, or within 20 minutes, while the hair is wet or damp.
  • Methods according to the disclosure generally do not require the use of a reducing agent, including a base, or heating the hair in order to achieve a temporary straightening effect. As such, in some embodiments, the method does not including using a reducing agent or a base, and/or does not including heating the hair.
  • the methods of treating hair with the compositions according to the disclosure impart the benefits described above to the hair, without a greasy feel or flaking, relative to hair not having been treated with a composition according to the disclosure.
  • the benefits imparted to the hair may remain a desired length of time, such as a few hours, a few days, or until the hair is rinsed or washed.
  • a salt thereof also relates to “salts thereof.”
  • the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof,” it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
  • the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and a mixture thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “and a combination thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or a mixture thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” “or a combination thereof,” and variations thereof are used interchangeably to denote that the listing of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof” signify that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.
  • a range of “1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%,” is intended to encompass ranges of “1% to 8%,” “1% to 5%,” “2% to 10%,” and so on. All numbers, amounts, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified by the term “about,” whether or not so expressly stated. Similarly, a range given of “about 1% to 10%” is intended to have the term “about” modifying both the 1% and the 10% endpoints.
  • Active material as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.
  • the term “treat” refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of keratin materials, such as hair.
  • applying a composition onto keratin materials As used herein, the terms “applying a composition onto keratin materials,” “applying a composition onto hair,” and variations of these phrases are intended to mean contacting the keratin materials including hair and skin, with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner. It may also mean contacting the keratin materials in an effective amount.
  • curly hair refers to any hair including a curl
  • “wavy hair” refers to any hair including a wave.
  • the curl and/or wave may be natural or unnatural, i.e., formed by chemical treatment or physical treatment of the hair.
  • the degree of curliness and/or waviness of the hair may vary and is not limited.
  • a “leave-in” composition or product refers to a composition such as a hair- treatment composition that is not rinsed and/or washed away with water or acceptable solvent after the application of the composition onto the keratin fiber, such as hair; instead, the composition is allowed to remain on the keratin fibers for a period of time as desired, such from 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours, up to 8 hours, overnight, or as long as needed, until next time of washing or rinsing the keratin fibers.
  • polyol refers to an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • salts refers to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion, in either ionized or un-ionized form. It is to be understood that, with regard to salts of acids described herein, it is intended to encompass the use of a salt of the acid as an ingredient added to a composition according to the disclosure, or to the salt of the acid that forms when the acid is used as an ingredient in a composition according to the disclosure (in ionized or un-ionized form).
  • the term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein means the specific material may be present in small amounts that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions according to the disclosure. For instance, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount of less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions according to the disclosure. Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or none of the specified material.
  • a claimed composition may be “free,” “essentially free” (or “substantially free”) of one or more components that are positively set forth in the instant disclosure.
  • the term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material that is included in the composition.
  • synthetic means a material that is not of natural origin.
  • natural and naturally-sourced means a material of natural origin, such as derived from plants, which also cannot be subsequently chemically or physically modified.
  • Plant-based means that the material came from a plant.
  • the term “temporary” should be understood to indicate that some degree of benefit or effect is imparted to the hair that remains from when the hair is treated with a composition according to the disclosure, until the composition is removed from the hair, e.g. by washing the hair.
  • compositions 1A-1 I were tested on a swatch of curly hair. First, the swatches were washed and conditioned with a standard shampoo and conditioner, and excess water was squeezed from the swatches by hand. Next, each of compositions 1A-1 I was applied to a swatch at a ratio of about 0.15 grams per gram of hair, and distributed through the hair by hand (10 passes) and with a comb (3 passes), after which the swatches were allowed to air dry at ambient temperature and humidity.
  • FIG. 1 is a graph showing the number of passes required to break the film that had formed on each of compositions 1A-1 I after drying, where a higher number of passes required to break the film correlates to a stiffer film, and a lower number of passes required to break the film correlates to a softer film.
  • T0 ⁇ mb all swatches had a smooth feel and were shiny and manageable.
  • the swatches were then placed into a humidity chamber (80% RH) at room temperature, and evaluated after one hour (T 1 FI) and again after eight hours (T8FI).
  • FIGS. 2A-2D are photographs of the treated swatches at TO (FIG. 2A), TOcomb (FIG. 2B), T1 H (FIG. 2C), and T8H (FIG. 2D).
  • FIG. 2A after drying, the treated swatches were straight other than the swatch treated with composition 1 D, which was slightly wavy.
  • FIG. 2B after combing, the swatches treated with compositions 1A-1C and 1 E-1 I remained straight, while the swatch treated with composition 1 D, remained slightly wavy.
  • FIG. 3 is a graph demonstrating the relative change in curl for each swatch from TOcomb to T1 H to T8FI, where a higher value correlates to curlier hair, and a lower value correlates to straighter hair.
  • This Example demonstrates that hair straightening is achieved using various combinations of cyclodextrin and film former at different concentrations and ratios, even after exposure to high humidity.
  • compositions 2A-2I were tested on a swatch of curly hair. First, the swatches were washed and conditioned with a standard shampoo and conditioner, and excess water was squeezed from the swatches by hand. Next, each of compositions 2A-2I was applied to a swatch at a ratio of about 0.15 grams per gram of hair, and distributed through the hair by hand (10 passes) and with a comb (3 passes), after which the swatches were allowed to air dry at ambient temperature and humidity.
  • FIGS. 4A-4D are photographs of the treated swatches at TO (FIG. 4A), TOcomb (FIG. 4B), T1 H (FIG. 4C), and T8FI (FIG. 4D).
  • the swatches treated with compositions 2G-2I remained the straightest, compared to the swatches treated with comparative compositions 2A-2F, with composition 2G delivering the most significant hair straightening benefits, as seen in FIG. 5.
  • FIG. 5 is a graph demonstrating the relative change in curl for each swatch from TOcomb to T 1 H to T8FI, where a higher value correlates to curlier hair, and a lower value correlates to straighter hair.
  • compositions 3A-3FI were tested on a swatch of curly hair. First, the swatches were washed and conditioned with a standard shampoo and conditioner, and excess water was squeezed from the swatches by hand. Next, each of compositions 3A-3H was applied to a swatch at a ratio of about 0.15 grams per gram of hair, and distributed through the hair by hand (10 passes) and with a comb (3 passes), after which the swatches were allowed to air dry at ambient temperature and humidity.
  • FIG. 6 is a graph showing the number of passes required to break the film that had formed on each of compositions 3A-3H after drying, where a higher number of passes required to break the film correlates to a stiffer film, and a lower number of passes required to break the film correlates to a softer film.
  • T0 ⁇ mb all swatches had a smooth feel and were shiny and manageable.
  • the swatches were then placed into a humidity chamber (80% RH) at room temperature, and evaluated after one hour (T1 H) and again after eight hours (T8H). The swatches treated with compositions 3F and 3G felt the smoothest.
  • FIGS. 7A-7D are photographs of the treated swatches at TO (FIG. 7A), TOcomb (FIG. 7B), T1 H (FIG. 7C), and T8H (FIG. 7D).
  • FIG. 7B after the film was broken (TOcomb), the swatches treated with inventive compositions 3E-3FI were straighter than the swatches treated with compositions 3A-3D.
  • FIGS. 7C- 7D the hair treated with inventive compositions 3E-3FI remained straighter and had less frizz, even after exposure to high humidity, than the swatches treated with compositions 3A-3D.
  • FIG. 8 is a graph demonstrating the relative change in curl for each swatch from TOcomb to T 1 H to T8FI, where a higher value correlates to curlier hair, and a lower value correlates to straighter hair.
  • FIG. 8 shows the least curl (i.e. most straightening) at TOcomb, T1 H, and T8FI for swatches treated with compositions 3E-3FI.
  • compositions according to the disclosure work to synergistically provide straightening benefits which persist over time and at high humidity, and also provide sensorial benefits to the hair, which benefits were unexpected and surprising compared to the treatment by the individual components alone.
  • compositions 4A-4F were tested on a swatch of curly hair. First, the swatches were washed and conditioned with a standard shampoo and conditioner, and excess water was squeezed from the swatches by hand. Next, each of compositions 4A-4F was applied to a swatch at a ratio of about 0.15 grams per gram of hair, and distributed through the hair by hand (10 passes) and with a comb (3 passes), after which the swatches were allowed to air dry at ambient temperature and humidity.
  • FIG. 9 is a graph showing the number of passes required to break the film that had formed on each of compositions 4A-4F after drying, where a higher number of passes required to break the film correlates to a stiffer film, and a lower number of passes required to break the film correlates to a softer film.
  • T0 ⁇ mb all swatches had a smooth feel and were shiny and manageable.
  • the swatches were then placed into a humidity chamber (80% RH) at room temperature, and evaluated after one hour (T 1 H) and again after eight hours (T8H).
  • FIGS. 10A-10D are photographs of the treated swatches at TO (FIG. 10A), TOcomb (FIG. 10B), T1H (FIG. 10C), and T8H (FIG. 10D).
  • FIGS. 10A- 10B after drying and combing, the treated swatches were straight and aligned. All swatches treated with compositions 4A-4F demonstrated frizz control.
  • FIGS. 10C-10D show that the swatches remained straight, even after exposure to high humidity.
  • FIG. 11 is a graph demonstrating the relative change in curl for each swatch from T0 ⁇ mb to T 1 H to T8FI, where a higher value correlates to curlier hair, and a lower value correlates to straighter hair.
  • FIG. 11 shows that all of compositions 4A-4F provide straightening benefits that persist even after exposure to high humidity.
  • This Example demonstrates that effective hair straightening is achieved using various combinations of cyclodextrin, film former, solvent including a polyol, and acid at different concentrations and ratios.
  • compositions according to the disclosure provide hair straightening benefits and/or sensory benefits such as smoothness, shine, and/or frizz control to hair, which lasts over time even after exposure to high humidity, over a range of different ratios, concentrations, and components.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des compositions comprenant (a) au moins une cyclodextrine ; (b) au moins un agent filmogène ; (c) au moins un solvant ; et (d) facultativement au moins un acide. Les compositions peuvent être utilisées pour apporter des bénéfices à des fibres de kératine, par exemple lisser temporairement les cheveux. L'invention concerne en outre des procédés d'utilisation des compositions.
PCT/US2022/031172 2021-05-27 2022-05-26 Compositions et procédés de traitement de fibres de kératine WO2022251527A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US17/332,695 US20220401344A1 (en) 2021-05-27 2021-05-27 Compositions and methods for treating keratin fibers
US17/332,695 2021-05-27
FRFR2109208 2021-09-03
FR2109208A FR3126618B1 (fr) 2021-09-03 2021-09-03 Compositions et procédés de traitement des fibres kératineuses

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