WO2022246734A1 - Composition anhydre servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques - Google Patents

Composition anhydre servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2022246734A1
WO2022246734A1 PCT/CN2021/096350 CN2021096350W WO2022246734A1 WO 2022246734 A1 WO2022246734 A1 WO 2022246734A1 CN 2021096350 W CN2021096350 W CN 2021096350W WO 2022246734 A1 WO2022246734 A1 WO 2022246734A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
composition according
sorbitan
total weight
present
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2021/096350
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Yawen Liu
Tu LUAN
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to CN202180098701.1A priority Critical patent/CN117396186A/zh
Priority to PCT/CN2021/096350 priority patent/WO2022246734A1/fr
Priority to FR2106790A priority patent/FR3123214B1/fr
Publication of WO2022246734A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022246734A1/fr

Links

Images

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials. More particularly, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.
  • coconut oil has lots of benefits on keratin materials such as the skin. For example, it is commonly used to nourish the hair. Thus there are many cosmetic products comprising coconut oil developed in the art.
  • EP3622946B1 discloses cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the hair and the scalp comprising extracts of aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) and coconut fruit (Cocos nucifera) .
  • EP1231892B1 discloses a dermo-cosmetic skin care composition
  • a dermo-cosmetic skin care composition comprising inter alia rice starch, coconut oil and karite butter, which is capable of nourishing the cells and tissues of the skin.
  • CLEAR SCALP&HAIR BEAUTY THERAPY INTENSE shampoo from UNILEVER which includes, among other things, powder from aloe vera leaves (Aloe barbadensis) , coconut oil (Cocos nucifera) , as well as at least one cationic surfactant, a sulfur-containing surfactant (TEA-dodecylbenzenesulfonate, TEA-sulfate) and an anionic gelling agent.
  • 365 EVERYDAY VALUE CITRUS shampoo from WHOLE FOODS MARKET which includes juice from aloe vera leaves (Aloe barbadensis) , coconut oil (Cocos nucifera) , as well as at least one cationic surfactant, asulfur-containing surfactant (isethionate, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine) and an anionic gelling agent.
  • An object of the present invention is thus to develop a cosmetic product comprising a relatively higher concentration of coconut oil, which shows good stability, i.e. coconut oil contained therein would not obviously appear on the surface of the product even at a temperature below room temperature.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.
  • the present invention provides an anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising,
  • At least one thickener selected from poly (C10-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) ;
  • At least one non-ionic surfactant selected from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising applying the anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.
  • the anhydrous composition according to the present invention has good stability.
  • the crystallization degree of coconut oil is no more than 50%, i.e. coconut oil will appear on no more than 50%of surface area of the composition after 15 g of the composition being still in a container with an inside cross-section area of 13.8 cm 2 for 10 days.
  • Fig. 1 shows a photo of the composition of invention example 1 after put in an isothermal oven at 18°C for 10 days.
  • Fig. 2 shows a photo of the composition of invention example 2 after put in an isothermal oven at 18°C for 10 days.
  • Fig. 3 shows a photo of the composition of comparative example 1 after put in an isothermal oven at 18°C for 10 days.
  • Fig. 4 shows a photo of the composition of comparative example 2 after put in an isothermal oven at 18°C for 10 days.
  • anhydrous means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2 wt. %and preferably less than 0.5 wt. %of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, but are not deliberately provided.
  • keratin materials is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and hair.
  • the anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials according to the present invention comprises:
  • At least one thickener selected from poly (C10-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) ;
  • At least one non-ionic surfactant selected from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises coconut oil.
  • Coconut oil is made from the meat of mature coconuts. Coconut oil is 100%fat, 80-90%of which is saturated fat. Fat is made up of smaller molecules called fatty acids, and there are several types of saturated fatty acids in coconut oil. The predominant type is lauric acid (47%) , with myristic and palmitic acids present in smaller amounts. Also present in trace amounts are monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats.
  • coconut oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %, more preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one thickener selected from poly (C10-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) .
  • Poly (C10-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) can be obtained by the polymerization of at least one monomer selected from C 10 to C 18 alkyl (meth) acrylates, which may be represented by the formula below:
  • R 1 is H or CH 3
  • R represents a C 10 to C 18 alkyl group and X represents O.
  • polymers are of any nature, provided that they meet the conditions mentioned hereinbelow with, in particular, the characteristic of being soluble or dispersible in the liquid fatty phase, by heating above their melting point. They may result from the polymerization, especially the free-radical polymerization, of one or more monomers containing reactive or ethylenic double bond (s) with respect to a polymerization.
  • These polymers may especially have a molecular weight ranging from 15 000 to 500 000 and preferably from 80 000 to 200 000.
  • the thickener is selected from poly (C16-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) .
  • the thickener that is suitable for preparing the compositions according to the present invention may be poly (stearyl acrylate) .
  • Poly (stearyl acrylate) can be obtained by polymerization of stearyl acrylate.
  • the weight-average molecular weight Mw of poly (stearyl acrylate) ranges from 15 000 g/mol to 500 000 g/mol, and preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 200 000 g/mol, more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 200 000 g/mol.
  • IP A 13-1 from the company Air Products and Chemicals or Landec, which has a molecular weight of about 145000 g/mol and a melting point of 49°C.
  • thickener selected from poly (C10-C18 alkyl (methyl) acrylates) is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan.
  • esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan are formed by esterification, with sorbitol, of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one linear alkyl or alkenyl chain respectively having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • esters can be selected in particular from sorbitan stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates or oleates, and their mixtures.
  • the ester of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C.
  • sorbitan ester which can be used in the composition according to the invention, Mention may be made of:
  • CTFA name Sorbitan stearate sold by Croda under the name Span 60,
  • CTFA name Sorbitan palmitate
  • the non-ionic surfactant is selected from sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monooleate, and sorbitan trioleate. More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is sorbitan trioleate.
  • the non-ionic surfactant selected from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the anhydrous composition comprises a pasty compound.
  • pasty compound used herein is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state exhibiting, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, aliquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23°C, represents 9 wt. %to 97 wt. %of the composition.
  • This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15 wt.%and 85 wt. %, more preferably between 40 wt. %and 85 wt. %.
  • the melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the software "TA Universal Analysis” .
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measurement protocol is as follows.
  • a sample of 5 mg of pasty compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from-20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to-20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from-20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the pasty compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
  • the heat of fusion (expressed in J/g) of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 2°C, consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30%to 100%by weight of the pasty compound, preferably from 50%to 100%and more preferably from 60%to 100%by weight of the pasty compound.
  • the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
  • the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C.
  • the pasty compound (s) may in particular be selected from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin.
  • the pasty compound (s) may be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based.
  • the pasty compound (s) may be selected in particular from:
  • lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,
  • polyol ethers selected from C 2 -C 4 polyalkylene glycol pentaerythrityl ethers, fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyethylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 OE)
  • polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxypropylene (5 OP) units CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether
  • CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and mixtures thereof, and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, which is a mixture in which the constituents are in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46%PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46%PPG-5 Pentaerythrity
  • linear or branched oligomers which are homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably containing a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group,
  • ⁇ oligomers which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, and
  • ⁇ oligomers which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups
  • liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 100 and preferably C 2 -C 50 diols.
  • the liposoluble polyethers that are particularly considered are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C 6 -C 30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5: 95 to 70: 30.
  • copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks with an average molecular weight from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel,
  • esters the following are especially considered:
  • esters of a glycerol oligomer especially diglycerol esters, with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C6-C20, optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids, and/or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C6-C10 dicarboxylic acids, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of diglycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, for instance bis- diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the reference 649 by the company CREMER OLEO (IOI) ,
  • fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof in particular optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially) , optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, C 6 -C 30 and more particularly C 8 -C 18 , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid triglycerides; for example Softisan sold by the company Sasol,
  • aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. More particularly, the aliphatic carboxylic acid is of C 4 -C 30 and preferably of C 8 -C 30 .
  • It is preferably selected from hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, nonanoic, decanoic, undecanoic, dodecanoic, tridecanoic, tetradecanoic, pentadecanoic, hexadecenoic, hexyldecanoic, heptadecanoic, octadecanoic, isostearic, nonadecanoic, eicosanoic, isoarachidic, octyldodecanoic, heneicosanoic and docosanoic acids, and mixtures thereof.
  • the aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.
  • the hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a C 2 -C 40 , preferably C 10 -C 34 and even more preferentially C 12 -C 28 hydroxylated carboxylic acid; the number of hydroxyl groups being between 1 and 20, more particularly between 1 and 10 and preferably between 1 and 6.
  • esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function (s) with acid or alcohol radicals, especially dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be selected especially from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G) , phytosteryl/isosteryl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) , and mixtures thereof,
  • - butters of plant origin such as mango butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara) , murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara) , cocoa butter; babassu butter such as the product sold under the name Cropure Babassu SS- (LK) by Croda, and also orange wax, for instance the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,
  • hydrogenated castor oil esters such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (V-L) sold by Nisshin Oil,
  • the pasty compound (s) used in the invention are selected from esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C6-C20, optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids, and/or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C 6 -C 10 dicarboxylic acids, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of diglycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, more preferably, the past compound is bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2.
  • the pasty compound is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 30 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention further comprises an additional oil.
  • oil means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • oils those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the additional oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, asilicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
  • a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, asilicone oil, or the like
  • a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil
  • the oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.
  • plant oils examples include, for example, canola oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
  • alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ester oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ether oils such as triglycerides
  • the ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • ethyl palmitate ethyl hexyl palmitate
  • isopropyl palmitate dicaprylyl carbonate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate
  • isostearyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C 4 -C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, isostearate, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
  • ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hex
  • artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri (caprate/caprylate) (or caprylic/capric triglyceride) , and glyceryl tri (caprate/caprylate/linolenate) .
  • capryl caprylyl glycerides glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri (caprate/caprylate) (or caprylic/capric triglyceride) , and
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like
  • cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodeca
  • the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • PDMS liquid polydimethylsiloxanes
  • liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • silicones containing aryl groups mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
  • the hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:
  • C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and
  • -linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as and squalane.
  • hydrocarbon oils examples include linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil(e.g., liquid paraffin) , paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil(e.g., liquid paraffin) , paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R may be selected from C 12 -C 20 alkyl and C 12 -C 20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • fatty alcohol examples include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol may be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 alcohols, and more preferably linear or branched, saturated C 12 -C 20 alcohols.
  • saturated fatty alcohol here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from linear or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C 12 -C 20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C 16 -C 20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C 16 -C 20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
  • the additional oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 85 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 30 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can comprise an additional cosmetic active agent (s) .
  • vitamins such as tocopheryl acetate
  • moisturizers such as sodium hyaluronate, irvingia gabonensis kernel butter
  • whitening agents such as capryloyl salicylic acid
  • anti-wrinkling agents such as palmitoyl tripeptide-1)
  • collagen-protecting agents and a mixture thereof.
  • composition according to the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance fillers, antioxidants (such as ceramide NP) , preserving agents, fragrances (such as sodium saccharin) , neutralizers, opacifiers, pigments and dyes, softeners, buffers, electrolytes (such as sodium chloride) , pH regulators (for example citric acid or potassium hydroxide) , and a mixture thereof.
  • conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives for instance fillers, antioxidants (such as ceramide NP) , preserving agents, fragrances (such as sodium saccharin) , neutralizers, opacifiers, pigments and dyes, softeners, buffers, electrolytes (such as sodium chloride) , pH regulators (for example citric acid or potassium hydroxide) , and a mixture thereof.
  • the present invention provides an anhydrous composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • composition of the present invention can be in the form of sold, gel, or viscose liquid.
  • the anhydrous composition of the present invention is suitable to be used as a skincare product, a makeup product, or a haircare product.
  • composition according to the present invention may be prepared in a conventional manner.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for/making up keratin materials comprising applying the anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.
  • the keratin materials can be for example lips, skin, and hair.
  • compositions according to invention examples (IE) 1-3 and comparative examples (CE) 1-6 were prepared according to the contents given in Tables 2 and 3 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated) .
  • compositions of invention examples are compositions according to the present invention.
  • composition of comparative example 1 does not any surfactant.
  • composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise any thickener.
  • composition of comparative example 3 comprises hydrogenated lecithin instead of sorbitan trioleate.
  • composition of comparative example 4 comprises hydrogenated stryene/butadiene copolymer instead of poly (stearyl acrylate) .
  • composition of comparative example 5 comprises hydrogenated stryene/isoprene copolymer instead of poly (stearyl acrylate) .
  • composition of comparative example 6 comprises hydrogenated poly (C6-20 olefin) (and) HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer instead of poly (stearyl acrylate) .
  • compositions were prepared as follows, taking the composition of invention example 1 as an example:
  • cocos nucifera coconut oil and squalane in an container at 80°C until homogeneity
  • step 5 adding octyldodecanol (and) irvingia gabonensis kernel butter (and) hydrogenated coco-glycerides, tocopheryl acetate, capryloyl salicylic acid, the remaining ceramide NP, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, sodium hyaluronate, and the milled paste in step 1, and continuously mixing at 80°C until homogeneity; and
  • each composition obtained in invention examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 has a homogeneous outlook (recorded as “Yes” )
  • each composition obtained in comparative examples 4-6 has obvious separated layers and floating raw materials (recorded as “No” ) .
  • the results were summarized in Tables 4 and 5.
  • compositions obtained in comparative examples 4-6 cannot form a homogeneous system, the crystallization degree thereof were not measured.
  • Fig. 1 shows a photo of the composition of invention example 1 after put in an isothermal oven at 18°C for 10 days. It shows only small part of coconut oil appears on the surface of the composition.
  • Fig. 2 shows a photo of the composition of invention example 2 after put in an isothermal oven at 18°C for 10 days. It shows no coconut oil appears on the surface of the composition.
  • Fig. 3 shows a photo of the composition of comparative example 1 after put in an isothermal oven at 18°C for 10 days. It shows only small part of coconut oil appears on the surface of the composition.
  • Fig. 4 shows a photo of the composition of comparative example 2 after put in an isothermal oven at 18°C for 10 days. It shows the surface of the composition was fully covered by coconut oil.
  • the crystallization degree of coconut oil was calculated according to the following formula:
  • S appear is the surface area of coconut oil appeared on the surface of the composition tested, expressed in cm 2 ;
  • S total is the total surface area of the composition tested in the container, i.e. the inside cross-section area of the container, expressed in cm 2 .
  • crystallization degree of coconut oil in compositions of invention examples 1-3 is no more than 50%.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition anhydre pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de matières kératiniques comprenant a) pas moins de 5 % en poids d'huile de noix de coco, par rapport au poids total de la composition; b) au moins un épaississant choisi parmi les poly(méthyl) acrylates d'alkyle en C10-C18; et c) au moins un tensioactif non ionique choisi parmi les esters d'acide gras en C16-C22 et de sorbitan. Un processus cosmétique de soin et/ou de maquillage de matières kératiniques comprend l'application de la composition anhydre telle que décrite ci-dessus sur les matières kératiniques.
PCT/CN2021/096350 2021-05-27 2021-05-27 Composition anhydre servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques WO2022246734A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202180098701.1A CN117396186A (zh) 2021-05-27 2021-05-27 用于护理和/或化妆角蛋白材料的无水组合物
PCT/CN2021/096350 WO2022246734A1 (fr) 2021-05-27 2021-05-27 Composition anhydre servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques
FR2106790A FR3123214B1 (fr) 2021-05-27 2021-06-24 composition anhydre pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de matières kératineuses

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2021/096350 WO2022246734A1 (fr) 2021-05-27 2021-05-27 Composition anhydre servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2022246734A1 true WO2022246734A1 (fr) 2022-12-01

Family

ID=84229450

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/CN2021/096350 WO2022246734A1 (fr) 2021-05-27 2021-05-27 Composition anhydre servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques

Country Status (3)

Country Link
CN (1) CN117396186A (fr)
FR (1) FR3123214B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2022246734A1 (fr)

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000078280A1 (fr) * 1999-06-18 2000-12-28 L'oreal Composition solide a phase continue aqueuse comprenant un gelifiant hydrophile et une charge particuliere, utilisations
US20030130636A1 (en) * 2001-12-22 2003-07-10 Brock Earl David System for improving skin health of absorbent article wearers
US20070292460A1 (en) * 2005-06-20 2007-12-20 Hartmut Schiemann Product release system to atomize non-liquid or highly viscous cosmetic compositions
US20080299154A1 (en) * 2007-05-30 2008-12-04 L'oreal Usa Products, Inc. Cosmetic hair compositions containing metal-oxide layered pigments and methods of use
US20100161029A1 (en) * 2003-05-07 2010-06-24 Filippini Brian B Emulsifiers for Multiple Emulsions

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2801505B1 (fr) 1999-11-26 2002-02-01 Arnaud Ruel Composition dermo-cosmetologique de soins comprenant entre autres de l'amidon de riz, de l'huile de coco et du beurre de karite
FR3018189B1 (fr) * 2014-03-05 2017-04-14 Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher Composition cosmetique / dermatologique comprenant au moins une huile essentielle de ciste et son utilisation
JP2019059696A (ja) * 2017-09-27 2019-04-18 株式会社マンダム シート化粧料
FR3085592B1 (fr) 2018-09-12 2020-10-09 Laboratoires Lea Composition cosmetique capillaire a base d’aloe vera et d’huile de noix de coco et son procede de preparation

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000078280A1 (fr) * 1999-06-18 2000-12-28 L'oreal Composition solide a phase continue aqueuse comprenant un gelifiant hydrophile et une charge particuliere, utilisations
US20030130636A1 (en) * 2001-12-22 2003-07-10 Brock Earl David System for improving skin health of absorbent article wearers
US20100161029A1 (en) * 2003-05-07 2010-06-24 Filippini Brian B Emulsifiers for Multiple Emulsions
US20070292460A1 (en) * 2005-06-20 2007-12-20 Hartmut Schiemann Product release system to atomize non-liquid or highly viscous cosmetic compositions
US20080299154A1 (en) * 2007-05-30 2008-12-04 L'oreal Usa Products, Inc. Cosmetic hair compositions containing metal-oxide layered pigments and methods of use

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN117396186A (zh) 2024-01-12
FR3123214B1 (fr) 2024-02-09
FR3123214A1 (fr) 2022-12-02

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US11969496B2 (en) Non-greasy personal care compositions
JP7171720B2 (ja) 脂肪相、親油性ポリマー、及び揮発性炭化水素系油を含む組成物
US20180078489A1 (en) Solid anhydrous composition comprising a combination of waxes
JP6542519B2 (ja) 組成物
JP2014118400A (ja) 無水化粧料組成物
US10328006B2 (en) W/O type emulsion and a premix for producing the same
JP6038725B2 (ja) 油性固形口唇化粧料
US20170035673A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising a pasty fatty substance and a non-ionic derivative of hydrophobic-modified cellulose
US20130310467A1 (en) Trehalose fatty acid ester composition
WO2022246734A1 (fr) Composition anhydre servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques
EP2978499A1 (fr) Composition anhydre solides comprenant une cire à point de fusion élevé et un aérogel de silice
KR20230115336A (ko) 중합체와 멘톨 및 이의 유도체로부터 선택되는 화합물을포함하는 수분 공급 조성물
WO2022227011A1 (fr) Composition anhydre solide servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques
JP2023113367A (ja) 油性固形化粧料
BR112020009617B1 (pt) Composição na forma de uma emulsão, uso cosmético de uma composição e processo cosmético para tratar um material de queratina
JP2004277419A (ja) ヒドロキシル化カルボン酸のトリグリセリド由来のポリエステルおよびペースト状化合物を含む化粧品組成物

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 21942312

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 202180098701.1

Country of ref document: CN

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE