WO2022233532A1

WO2022233532A1 - Protection of hair structure against environmental influence with a phenol and an aminosilicone

Info

Publication number: WO2022233532A1
Application number: PCT/EP2022/059375
Authority: WO
Inventors: Katharina Madita BODE; Volker Scheunemann; Camille Grosjacques
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2021-05-05
Filing date: 2022-04-08
Publication date: 2022-11-10
Also published as: DE102021111721A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic agents for treating a keratin material, comprising a) 0.001 to 20 wt% of amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer, in relation to the total weight of the cosmetic agent, and b) 0.001 to 10 wt% of hydroxytyrosol, in relation to the total weight of the cosmetic agent, the pH value of the cosmetic agent being pH 1 to pH 8. The invention also relates to a method in which the cosmetic agent according to the invention is used and to the use of the cosmetic agent according to the invention.

Description

"Preservation of the hair structure against environmental influences comprising a phenol and an amino silicone"

The invention relates to cosmetic agents, in particular shampoos and conditioners, with a combination of active ingredients for gentle and effective cleaning or care of the hair.

The structure of human hair is influenced by external and internal factors. External factors include, in particular, the use of care products, especially the frequency and intensity of hair washing, chemical and environmental influences (tinting, coloring, hair bleaching, permanent or temporary hair shaping, chlorinated water in swimming pools, various types of environmental toxins, etc.), mechanical influences (strong drafts e.g. by shaping the hair) and thermal influences (hot blow-drying, permanent waves or the influence of ultraviolet light e.g. by exposure to the sun). The internal factors include a balanced diet rich in vitamins, drinking enough fluids or taking medication, if necessary.

In order to compensate for structural damage to the hair, it has long been customary to subject hair to an after-treatment using care products. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. For example, following after-treatments, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased split ends.

During the treatment, the hair is usually treated with special active substances, for example antioxidants. Depending on the formulation, the treatment improves the combability, hold and fullness of the hair and reduces damage, the rate of split ends and brittleness.

Multifunctional cosmetic products containing care products are known in the prior art. These multifunctional cosmetic products include, in particular, the so-called "2 in 1" shampoos, which not only clean the hair, but also condition it. Such products are highly valued by consumers because their product performance means that they have at least one process step, for example conditioning with a classic hair conditioner, are superfluous.These cosmetic products are often provided primarily as cleaning agents, but they also have a care effect and reduce structural damage.

However, sustainably reducing or preventing hair damage remains a challenge. One problem is that many antioxidants are not stable in water-based products. Nor can they be combined with amodimethicones in such a way that a synergistic effect is achieved. Restoring the hair structure after damage is also important. The common term for restoring or improving the hair structure is the "repair effect". The lasting success of the repair effect is still a challenge in the development of cosmetic products. Both the repair effect and the protective effect are not ideal in the case of cosmetic compositions in the prior art due to the instability of the antioxidants.

The object on which the invention is based is to provide a cosmetic agent which prevents or reduces a damaging effect on keratinic fibers. Furthermore, the object on which the invention is based is to provide a cosmetic agent which has a repairing effect on keratinic fibers.

The object on which the invention is based is achieved by the subject matter of claim 1. A first subject matter of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for treating a keratin material, in particular for treating human hair, comprising 0.001 to 20% by weight of amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer , based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, and 0.001 to 10% by weight of hydroxytyrosol, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, the pH of the cosmetic agent being pH 1 to pH 7.

The combination of the Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer and Hydroxytyrosol protects the hair from damage and shows a repair effect. In particular, the combination of the antioxidant and the amodimethicone protects against structural damage caused by chemical treatment and environmental stresses such as UV light exposure. A synergistic repair effect is achieved. With the amodimethicone in combination with the antioxidant it is possible to strengthen the hair structure.

In the context of the present invention, “keratinic material” should be understood to mean, in particular, human hair. In the context of the present application, the substance “Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer” should be understood to mean the substance that bears this INCI designation. The Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer is the amino silicone.

Hydroxytyrosol is a phenolic acid also known as 2-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)ethanol. Without giving a full explanation for the synergistic effect when using the combination of amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer and hydroxytyrosol, it is reasonable to assume that the synergistic effect is influenced by the fact that the amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer is able to form an effective protective film to put the hair. According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent according to the invention comprises 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01-2% by weight, of amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer.

Amounts and weights in the present application always relate to the total weight of the cosmetic agent, unless stated otherwise.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent comprises 0.02 to 7% by weight, preferably 0.04 to 6% by weight, of hydroxytyrosol. According to further preferred embodiments, the preferably used amounts of amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer and hydroxytyrosol can be combined.

The pH value of the cosmetic agent supports the beneficial effects of the active ingredient combination of amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer and hydroxytyrosol. According to preferred embodiments, the pH is from pH 2 to less than pH 7, preferably pH 3 to pH 6. The preferred embodiments accordingly include cosmetic agents that are acidified.

The proportion by weight of amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer in the cosmetic agent is preferably greater than the proportion by weight of hydroxytyrosol. According to a preferred embodiment, the ratio of amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer to hydroxytyrosol is between 500:1 and 1:1, more preferably between 100:1 and 5:4, even more preferably between 10:1 and 2:1. In addition to this aminosilicone, other silicones (also: polyorganosiloxanes) can be contained in the agent according to the invention.

The care effect can be supported by the use of cationic surfactants or cationic polymers. According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent comprises a cationic surfactant. According to preferred embodiments, the cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of

• an alkylammonium salt of the formula RIR ₂ R3R ₄ N ⁺ X ^_ , where one or two of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are a branched or unbranched C4 to C26, preferably a branched or unbranched C5 to C20, more preferably a branched or unbranched C14 to cis alkyl group and the rest of R1, R2, R3 and R4 are hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, and X- is a cosmetically acceptable anion, preferably chloride, bromide or methosulfate, preferably the alkylammonium salt of formula RIR ₂ R3R ₄ N ⁺ X ^_ is selected from the group consisting of cetrimonium chloride and behentrimonium chloride;

alkylamidopropyltrimonium salt; • Alkylenamidopropyltrimonium salt, more preferably undecylenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate;

• Quaternium-87 and mixtures thereof.

Preferably the cationic surfactant is in an amount of 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic in the cosmetic contain.

When the cationic surfactant is an alkylammonium salt of the formula RiF^RsF N X-, one or two of Ri, R2, R3, and R4 represent a C4 to C26 branched or unbranched, preferably a Cs to C20 branched or unbranched , more preferably a branched or unbranched C14 to C18 alkyl group, the remainder of Ri, R2, R3 and R4 being hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, and X- is a cosmetically acceptable anion. Preferably the cosmetically acceptable anion is chloride , bromide or methosulfate.

According to a preferred embodiment, the alkyl ammonium salt of the formula RIR ₂ R3R ₄ N ⁺ X- is selected from the group consisting of cetrimonium chloride and behentrimonium chloride.

Also in a preferred embodiment, the cationic surfactant is an alkylamidoamine. The alkylamidoamine can exist in aqueous solution as a quaternized salt. Alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by _amidating natural or synthetic Cs-C24 fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with di-(Ci-C3)alkylaminoamines. According to the invention, particularly suitable compounds from this class of substances are, for example, the compounds known under the INCI names stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine or brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine. Most preferably, an alkylamidopropyltrimonium salt is used as a quaternized alkylamidoamine.

Another preferred cationic surfactant is the alkylenamidopropyltrimonium salt, especially undecylenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate.

Also particularly preferred are cationic surfactants, the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-87 is very particularly preferred among these.

Mixtures of one or more of the abovementioned cationic surfactants can also be used in the cosmetic agents.

Typically, the cationic surfactant is present in the cosmetic in amounts of 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic . According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent comprises a cationic polymer. The cationic polymer is preferably selected from the group consisting of

• a cationic cellulose polymer, preferably polyquaternium-10 and/or polyquaternium-24 and/or polyquaternium-67 and/or polyquaternium-72;

• a cationic guar derivative,

• a chitosan,

• cationic honey,

• polyquaternium-37,

• Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the cationic polymer is present in an amount of 0 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, still more preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic in the cosmetic funds included.

In addition or as an alternative to the cationic surfactant, the cosmetic agent can contain a cationic polymer. Accordingly, the cosmetic agent can contain a cationic surfactant, it can contain a cationic polymer, or it can contain a cationic surfactant and a cationic polymer.

According to further preferred embodiments, the cosmetic agent comprises a further cosmetic active ingredient for care. According to preferred embodiments, the cosmetic agent contains one or more cosmetic active ingredients selected from the group consisting of a linear or branched fatty alcohol, preferably a C10 to C24 fatty alcohol, more preferably a C12 to C20 fatty alcohol, most preferably a C1 to C18 fatty alcohol - fatty alcohol; a fatty acid ester, preferably one of a linear or branched C10 to C22, more preferably C12 to Cis fatty acid and a Cs to Cis, preferably C10 to Ci6 monoalcohol; an organic carbonate, preferably one comprising identical or different, branched or linear Cs to C14, more preferably Cs to Ci2, alkyl groups; an alkylenyl diester, preferably one consisting of identical or dissimilar fatty acid residues comprising 6 to 18, more preferably e to 14, most preferably 9 to 12 carbon atoms and a branched or linear alkylenyl residue comprising 2 to 10, more preferably 4 to 8, most preferably 5 bis 6 carbon atoms; a mineral oil and a modified or unmodified vegetable oil.

If a linear or branched fatty alcohol is used as the cosmetic active ingredient, the fatty alcohol is preferably a C10 to _C24 fatty alcohol, more preferably a C12 to C20 fatty alcohol, most preferably a cis to cis fatty alcohol. The fatty alcohols are particularly preferably linear fatty alcohols. Another alternative cosmetic ingredient relates to fatty acid esters. Preferred fatty acid esters are selected from those made from a linear or branched C10 to C22, more preferably C12 to Cis fatty acid and a Cs to Cis, more preferably C10 to Ci6 monoalcohol.

An organic carbonate is preferably used as a further cosmetic active ingredient. The organic carbonate preferably comprises an identical or different, branched or linear C6 to C14, more preferably C5 to C12, alkyl group.

Another alternative cosmetic ingredient is an alkylenyl diester. This is preferably made from identical or dissimilar fatty acid residues comprising 6 to 18, more preferably 8 to 14, most preferably 9 to 12 carbon atoms and a branched or linear alkylenyl residue comprising 2 to 10, more preferably 4 to 8, most preferably 5 to 6 carbon atoms.

Oils are used as further preferred cosmetic active ingredients. The cosmetic agent preferably comprises a mineral oil or a vegetable oil. The mineral oil can be selected from alkanes, in particular from an alkane mixture that has two or more alkanes that differ from one another in the number of carbon atoms. The preferred vegetable oil used is either modified or unmodified. Preferred vegetable oils are apricot kernel oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, marula oil, almond oil, olive oil, coconut oil and/or sunflower oil.

The cosmetic agent contains shea butter (INCI name Butyrospermaum Parkii (Shea) Butter) or argan oil as very particularly preferred cosmetic active ingredients. The cosmetic agent contains shea butter (INCI name Butyrospermaum Parkii (Shea) butter) and argan oil as very particularly preferred cosmetic active ingredients.

According to preferred embodiments, the cosmetic active ingredients mentioned above are present in the cosmetic agent in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 9% by weight. According to the preferred embodiments, the fatty alcohol in particular is present in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 9% by weight, most preferably in amounts of 2 to 5 wt .-% contained in the cosmetic agent.

The cleaning compositions or the care compositions contain surfactant. According to preferred embodiments, the cosmetic agent comprises a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant and/or an anionic surfactant, preferably a cationic surfactant together with a further surfactant selected from the group consisting of one nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant. According to this preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent comprises a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant, or a nonionic surfactant and an anionic surfactant, or an amphoteric surfactant and an anionic surfactant. For use as a care product, it is preferred if the cosmetic agent contains a cationic surfactant with a further surfactant. It is thus preferred if the cosmetic agent contains a cationic surfactant and a nonionic surfactant, or a cationic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant.

The cosmetic agent according to the preferred embodiment comprises the nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of C6 to Cie, preferably Cs to Cie, more preferably C10 to Cu alkyl polyglucosides, preferably cocoglucoside or decyl glucoside; polyglyceryl alkylates, preferably PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate; cocamide MEA; and alkyl glycol ethers composed of Cs to C24, preferably C12 to C18, alkyl groups and 1 to 8, preferably 2 to 5, ethylene oxide units.

When the nonionic surfactant is an alkyl polyglucoside this is preferably selected from C6 to C18, more preferably Cs to Cie, most preferably C10 to Cu alkyl polyglucosides. It is particularly preferred when the alkyl polyglucoside is coco glucoside or decyl glucoside.

Another group of preferred nonionic surfactants is that of the polyglyceryl alkylates. These are polyglycerol adducts with fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides or fatty acid glucamides, or ethylene oxide and polyglycerol adducts with fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides or fatty acid glucamides. Particularly preferred is the PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate.

Furthermore, according to a preferred embodiment, the nonionic surfactants are alkyl glycol ethers consisting of a Cs to C24, preferably C12 to Cis, alkyl group and 1 to 8, preferably 2 to 5, ethylene oxide units.

According to preferred embodiments, the cosmetic agents contain 0.3 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, even more preferably 0.75 to 6% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of nonionic surfactant .

The cosmetic agents can contain an amphoteric surfactant. Amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants are surfactants that have both a negatively and a positively charged functional group.

According to preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition contains an amphoteric surfactant, which is preferably a Cs-is, more preferably Cio-i6-alkylamido-(Ci-4-alkyl) betaine, a Cs-is, more preferably C10-16- Alkylamido-(Ci- ₄ -alkyl)sultaine, a Cio-18-alkylamphoacetate or a Cio-18-alkylamphodiacetate. In particular, according to preferred embodiments, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of cocamidopropylbetaine, amophoacetate, preferably disodium amphodiacetate, cocobetaine and mixtures thereof. The cocamidopropyl betaine is a particularly preferred fatty acid amide derivative which is particularly suitable as an amphoteric surfactant.

Suitable zwitterionic surfactants are also the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl -S-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and cocoacylaminoethyl-hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. Other examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2-Ci8-acylsarcosine.

According to preferred embodiments, the cosmetic agents contain 0.3 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 6% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight amphoteric surfactant .

If several surfactants, i.e. also several cationic or several nonionic or several amphoteric or several nonionic and amphoteric surfactants or several cationic and nonionic surfactants or several cationic and amphoteric surfactants are contained in the cosmetic agent, the amounts in % by weight always relate to the sum the surfactants.

Anionic surfactants are preferably included in cleaning compositions. When the cosmetic is a cleansing composition, anionic surfactants and no cationic surfactants are contained in the cosmetic.

Preferred anionic surfactants are acyl glutamates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, each with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, which in particularly preferred embodiments consists of an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroy| , Myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl radical is selected, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid or the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular the products with the INCI name Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-glucoside tartrates and disodium cocoglucoside sulfosuccinates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethoxy groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups.

More preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid salts with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl ester 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are the alkali metal or ammonium salts of lauryl ether sulfate with a degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4 EO.

The object on which the invention is based is also achieved by the subject matter of claim 8. A second subject matter of the present invention is therefore a method for treating a keratinic material, in particular for treating human hair, in which a cosmetic agent according to the invention is applied to the keratinic material , in particular on human hair, is applied, preferably immediately after cleaning the keratinic material, in particular after cleaning human hair, and is left to act there for a period of 2 minutes or more until the next cleaning or less, preferably from 5 Minutes or more up to 12 hours or less.

In this method, the cosmetic agent according to the invention is used as a leave-on composition. The cosmetic agent is left in the hair. The human hair is preferably treated with the cosmetic agent after cleaning. The cosmetic agent is applied and left to act there. The exposure time may vary. The cosmetic agent is preferably left in the hair until the next cleansing, particularly preferably left there for up to 12 hours. The cosmetic agent is preferably rinsed out with water.

The object on which the invention is based is also achieved by the subject matter of claim 9. A third subject matter of the present invention is therefore a method for treating a keratinic material, in particular for treating human hair, in which the cosmetic agent according to the invention is applied to the keratinic material, in particular applied to human hair and then rinsed out with water.

This process is a rinse-off process. The cosmetic product in this case is a cleaning product or a "2 in 1" cosmetic product. The exposure time, ie the time between application and rinsing is significantly lower than with the method in which the cosmetic is a leave-on cosmetic. The exposure time is therefore preferably less than 5 minutes.

The object on which the invention is based is also achieved by the subject matter of claim 10. A fourth subject matter of the present invention is therefore the use of the cosmetic agent according to the invention to reduce or prevent harmful effects from chemical treatments of the keratin material, from air and water pollution free radicals or by UV radiation; or as a means of exerting a repair effect.

The cosmetic agent according to the invention is preferably used as a conditioner, hair treatment, shampoo, as a “2 in 1” cosmetic agent or in the form of a spray.

Features relating to preferred embodiments of the first subject matter of the invention, which are only described above in relation to this, of course apply correspondingly to the second, third and fourth subject matter as features of preferred embodiments.

The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the present invention without restricting it in any way.

Examples:

Shampoo:

Hair shampoo sulfate-free:

Hair conditioner:

Hair treatment:

care spray:

Claims

patent claims

1. Cosmetic agent for the treatment of a keratinic material, comprising a) 0.001 to 20% by weight of amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, and b) 0.001 to 10% by weight of hydroxytyrosol, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, the pH of the cosmetic agent being between pH 1 and pH 7.

2. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic agent based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01-2% wt .-%, Amodimethicone / morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer comprises, and wherein the cosmetic Agent based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent 0.02 to 7 wt .-%, preferably 0.04 to 6 wt .-%, hydroxytyrosol comprises, and the pH of the cosmetic agent at pH 2 to less than pH 7, preferably is at pH 3 to pH 6, and wherein the weight fraction of amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer in the cosmetic composition is greater than the weight fraction of hydroxytyrosol.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, further comprising a cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of

• an alkylammonium salt of the formula RIR ₂ R3R ₄ N ⁺ X , where one or two of Ri, R2, R3, and R4 are a branched or unbranched C4 to C26, preferably a branched or unbranched C5 to C20, more preferably a branched or unbranched C14 to C18 alkyl group and the others from R1, R2, R3 and R4 are hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, and X is a cosmetically acceptable anion, preferably chloride, bromide or methosulfate, with preference being given to the alkylammonium salt of the formula RIR ₂ R3R ₄ N ⁺ X ^_ is selected from the group consisting of cetrimonium chloride and behentrimonium chloride;

• alkylamidopropyltrimonium salt;

• Alkylenamidopropyltrimonium salt, more preferably undecylenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate;

• Quaternium-87 and mixtures thereof; wherein the cationic surfactant is contained in the cosmetic in an amount of 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic is.

4. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, comprising one or more cosmetic active ingredients selected from the group consisting of a linear or branched fatty alcohol, preferably a C10 to C ₂₄ fatty alcohol, more preferably a C12 to C20 fatty alcohol, on most preferably a Cie to Cis fatty alcohol; a fatty acid ester, preferably one of a linear or branched C10 to C22, more preferably C12 to C18 fatty acid and a Cs to Cis, more preferably C10 to C16 monoalcohol; an organic carbonate, preferably one comprising identical or different, branched or linear Cs to C14, more preferably Cs to Ci2, alkyl groups; an alkylenyl diester, preferably one consisting of identical or dissimilar fatty acid residues comprising 6 to 18, more preferably 8 to 14, most preferably 9 to 12 carbon atoms, and a branched or linear alkylenyl residue comprising 2 to 10, more preferably 4 to 8, most preferably 5 up to 6 carbon atoms; a mineral oil and a modified or unmodified vegetable oil.

5. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, comprising a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant and / or an anionic surfactant, preferably comprising a cationic surfactant together with a further surfactant selected from the group consisting of a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant.

6. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of Cs to Cis, preferably Cs to Cis, more preferably C10 to Cu alkyl polyglucosides, preferably cocoglucoside or decyl glucoside; polyglyceryl alkylates, preferably PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate; cocamide MEA; and alkyl glycol ethers composed of Cs to C24, preferably C12 to Cis, alkyl groups and 1 to 8, preferably 2 to 5, ethylene oxide units.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is a Cs-18-, preferably Cio-i6-alkylamido-(Ci- ₄ -alkyl) betaine, a Ce-is-, preferably Cio-i6-alkylamido -(Ci-4-alkyl)sultaine, a Cio-is-alkylamphoacetate or a Cio-is-alkylamphodiacetate; wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected in particular from the group consisting of cocamidopropylbetaine, amophoacetate, preferably disodium amphodiacetate, cocobetaine and mixtures thereof.

8. A method for treating a keratinic material, in which a cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7 is applied to the keratinic material, preferably applied immediately after cleaning the keratinic material, and is left there for a period of 2 minutes or more to the next cleaning or less, preferably from 5 minutes or more to 12 hours or less.

9. A method for treating a keratinic material, in which a cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7 is applied to the keratinic material, massaged in and then rinsed out with water.

10. Use of a cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for reducing or preventing harmful effects of air and water pollution on keratinic material; to reduce or prevent the formation of free radicals on or in keratinic material; as a means of exerting a repair effect; or to protect against stress caused by physical stress, especially UV radiation.