WO2022178598A1 - Compositions cosmétiques en bâton, utilisation de la composition cosmétique en bâton et procédé de fabrication de la composition cosmétique en bâton - Google Patents

Compositions cosmétiques en bâton, utilisation de la composition cosmétique en bâton et procédé de fabrication de la composition cosmétique en bâton Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022178598A1
WO2022178598A1 PCT/BR2021/050085 BR2021050085W WO2022178598A1 WO 2022178598 A1 WO2022178598 A1 WO 2022178598A1 BR 2021050085 W BR2021050085 W BR 2021050085W WO 2022178598 A1 WO2022178598 A1 WO 2022178598A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
mixtures
total weight
alcohol
active agent
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PCT/BR2021/050085
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English (en)
Inventor
Bruna Rodrigues SALOMAO
Maria Clara REIS NUCCI
Thiago ALVES
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/BR2021/050085 priority Critical patent/WO2022178598A1/fr
Priority to FR2103710A priority patent/FR3120190A1/fr
Publication of WO2022178598A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022178598A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0229—Sticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/28—Zirconium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • STICK COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS USE OF THE STICK COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE STICK COSMETIC
  • the present invention is directed to a stick cosmetic composition
  • a stick cosmetic composition comprising fatty compound, surfactant, antiperspirant or deodorant actives, talc and perlite.
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention provides a product with desired hardness, stability and sensoriality. Also, the present invention is directed to the use of the stick cosmetic composition and the process for manufacturing the stick cosmetic composition.
  • Sweating though a natural bodily function, results in the formation of wet patches on human skin and/or clothing. Moreover, the sweat secreted from sweat glands has a tendency to form a malodorous odor due to its interaction with the many microorganisms which reside on the skin surface, particularly the skin of the underarm. These two phenomena are deemed to be undesirable in many societies.
  • Antiperspirant products possess ingredients which inhibit/suppress sweating, whereas antiperspirant and deodorant products possess ingredients that mask the malodors caused by sweat. Many products address both phenomena simultaneously.
  • the antiperspirant and deodorants active agents generally consist of salts or complexes of aluminum and/or zirconium, such as aluminum chloride and aluminum hydroxy halides, among others. These substances help to reduce the flow of sweat.
  • the stick form can be distinguished from a gel or a paste in that in a stick, the formulated product can maintain its shape for extended time periods outside the package, wherein the product does not significantly lose its shape, except for the shrinkage due to solvent evaporation.
  • Sticks for topical application to skin for example, to an armpit, are perceived to be dry, moisturizing, and easy to apply.
  • a stick cosmetic composition which comprises fatty compound, surfactant, antiperspirant or deodorant actives, talc and perlite.
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises fatty compound, surfactant, antiperspirant or deodorant actives, talc and perlite.
  • Such stick composition provides a product with desired texture and stable hardness, good stability under extreme conditions of temperature and humidity, avoiding cracks, weight loss, good dry touch (matte effect), less oiliness sensation and oily stains in clothes and good efficacy against sweat odor and transpiration, especially for hairy armpits consumers, due to the specific combination of talc and perlite.
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.
  • Cosmetically acceptable means that the item in question is compatible with any keratinous substrate.
  • cosmetically acceptable carrier means a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate.
  • anhydrous means that the antiperspirant composition of the present invention and the essential or optional components thereof, are substantially free of added or free water. From a formulation standpoint, this means that the antiperspirant compositions of the present invention contain less than about 2%, preferably less than about 1%, more preferably less than about 0.5%, most preferably zero percent, by weight of free or added water.
  • stable refers to a physical or chemical property of a cosmetic composition such as an antiperspirant and/or deodorant anhydrous stick that does not change significantly over time, as well as there is no breakage of the stick bar. For example, no significant amount of precipitation, color change or exudation of an oil (e.g., less than about 10, 5, 1 , 0.5 or 0.1 wt%) is observed in an antiperspirant and/or deodorant anhydrous stick during a predetermined time period, for example, within about 1 , 3, 6, 12, 18 or 24 months.
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises antiperspirant active agent in a range of about 15% to about 25% and more preferably from about 20% to 25%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the antiperspirant active agent is selected from aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly (AZG), aluminum chlorohydrate (ACH), and mixtures thereof.
  • the deodorant active agent is selected from magnesium oxide, caustic soda, zinc PCA, sodium bircabonate, triclosan, and mixtures thereof.
  • the deodorant active agent is in a range of from about 3% to about 14%, and more preferably from about 5% to 12%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises fatty compound in a range of about 4% to about 25%, more preferably from about 5% to 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty compound is selected from castor oil, vegetable hydrogenated waxes, hydrogenated vegetable oil, and a mixture thereof.
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises surfactant in a range of about 20% to about 30%, more preferably 25% to 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the surfactant is selected from cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or benehyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises talc in a range of from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably from about 5% to 12%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises perlite in a range of from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to 6%, and even more preferably from about 1% to 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the stick composition of the present invention further comprises emollient selected from C12-15 alkyl benzoate.
  • the stick cosmetic composition will be used as a daily product to reduce, mask or absorb human unpleasant body odors.
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the skin.
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a hardness of about 450g with no maximum limit, measured by means of a Stable Micro SystemsTM Needle probe, following a penetrometry protocol. The limit of weight loss which is 3%.
  • the present invention is related to the use of the stick cosmetic composition for manufacturing a product for reducing, masking or absorbing human unpleasant body odors.
  • the stick cosmetic composition provides a product with desire texture and stable hardness, good stability under extreme conditions of temperature and humidity, avoiding cracks, weight loss, good dry touch (matte effect), less oiliness sensation and oily stains in clothes and good efficacy against sweat odor and transpiration, especially for hairy armpits consumers
  • a preferential example of a suitable stick cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • a suitable stick cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • the stick cosmetic composition comprises:
  • antiperspirant ingredient means any substance capable of reducing the flow of sweat.
  • the antiperspirant ingredients which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from aluminum and zirconium salts, complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and of aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of aluminum salts useful in the invention include, for example, aluminum chlorohydrate in the activated or nonactivated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, the aluminum chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, the aluminum dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sulphate buffered by sodium aluminum lactate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino include, for example, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and of aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). They are disclosed, for example, in patent US-3792068.
  • the ZAG complexes usually exhibit an Al/Zr quotient ranging from about 1 .67 to 12.5 and a Metal/Cl quotient ranging from about 0.73 to 1.93.
  • Non-limiting examples of these complexes include, for example, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachloro-hydrex glycine aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine complexes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the antiperspirant ingredient is aluminum chlorohydrate, in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH 103, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH 301 , aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY (INCI name), in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH AZP-908, and mixtures thereof.
  • Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GLY can be combined with a maximum of 5% of aluminum chlorohydrate.
  • the antiperspirant ingredients are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 10% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may further comprise any additional substance capable of reducing, masking or absorbing unpleasant human body odors, in particular underarm odors.
  • deodorant active agent could be selected from bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odor microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( ⁇ Triclosan), 2,4- dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3’,4’,5’-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 -(3’,4’- dichlorophenyl)-3-(4’-chlorophenyl)urea ( ⁇ Triclocarban) or 3,7,11 -trimethyldodeca- 2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1 ,3- diaminopropanetetraace
  • the deodorant active agents may be odor absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates, sodium bicarbonate; metallic or silver or silver-free zeolites, or cyclodextrins and derivatives thereof. They may also be chelating agents such as Dissolvine GL-47-S® from Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA. They may also be a polyol of glycerol or 1 ,3-propanediol type (for example, Zemea Propanediol sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle BioProducts); or else an enzyme inhibitor such as triethyl citrate; or alum.
  • odor absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates, sodium bicarbonate; metallic or silver or silver-free zeolites, or cyclodextrins and derivatives thereof. They may also be chelating agents such as Dissolvine GL-47-S® from Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA. They may also be a polyo
  • the deodorant active agents may also be agents for neutralizing foul smelling volatile compounds, such as sodium bicarbonate, for example sold by Universal Preserv-A-Chem, magnesium carbonate, for example sold by Buschle & Lepper, calcium carbonate, for example sold by Sensient, zinc oxide, for example sold by Kobo, calcium oxide or calcium hydroxide; amine derivatives such as tromethamine (for example, TRIS AMINO ULTRA sold by Angus (Dow chemical), triethanolamine, triethylamine and ethanolamine.
  • tromethamine for example, TRIS AMINO ULTRA sold by Angus (Dow chemical
  • TRIS AMINO ULTRA sold by Angus (Dow chemical)
  • the amount of the deodorant active agent may range from about 1% to about 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty compounds may be any cosmetically acceptable fatty substance suitable for building the hardness of the stick bar and its matrix.
  • the invention may comprise additional fatty compounds selected from oils, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-liming examples of fatty alcohols useful for the present invention are those liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and unsaturated carbon- based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2- undecylpentadecanol.
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty acids useful for the present invention are higher fatty C12-C22 acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid.
  • Preferable fatty compounds for the present invention are hydrogenated waxes, such as: hydrogenated jojoba oil, carnauba wax, and hydrogenated vegetable oil (rapeseed and palm).
  • the amount of the fatty compound(s) may range from about 2% to about 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Non-limiting examples of surfactants useful in the present invention include, for example, alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol, polyglycerol ester of fatty acids, mixtures of alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated), fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside,
  • Oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene or propylene oxide (EO/PO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Mention may be made to steareth 40, steareth 100, beheneth 40 and beheneth 100.
  • EO/PO ethylene or propylene oxide
  • Alkyl- esters of glycerol includes glyceryl esters of fatty acids, such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and tristearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • glyceryl esters of fatty acids such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and tristearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof mono-, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol) can be cited, preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and tristearate).
  • Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol having from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyglycerol esters of fatty acid are selected from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 4 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least a fatty acid having less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably less than 15 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol esters derived from the reaction comprising 4 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 12 carbon atoms preferably 10 to 12 carbon atoms such as lauric acid and / or capric acid.
  • ester from polyglyceryl-10 reaction glycerol homopolymer comprising 10 glycerol units
  • lauric acid ICI name: polyglyceryl- 10 laurate
  • ester from the reaction polyglycerol-4 glycerol homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units
  • capric acid ICI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate
  • a and a’ range from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80, better still a and a’ range from 50 to 130 and b ranges from 30 to 80, and even better still a and a’ range from 80 to 130 and b ranges from 40 to 80.
  • a and a’ are identical.
  • the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide that is useful in the composition of the invention preferably has a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 250 to 19 000, better still ranging from 1200 to 15 000, in particular ranging from 1500 to 10 000 and even better still ranging from 1500 to 5000.
  • Synperonic® PE/F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108), Synperonic® PE/F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), Synperonic® PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), Synperonic® PE/L42 (INCI name: Poloxamer 122), Synperonic® PE/F127 (INCI name: Poloxamer 407), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/L64 (INCI name: Poloxamer 184), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) by the company Croda, or Lu
  • Preferred surfactants may be selected from cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or benehyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the surfactant may range from about 15% to about 35%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Non-limiting examples powdered fillers useful in the invention include, for example, talc, mica, silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, perlite powders, fluorphlogopite, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, lauroyl lysine, metal soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Powdered filters do not include powdered pigments.
  • talc is present in an amount of from about 1% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and perlite is present in an amount of 0.5% to 10% based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon -based chain containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, with R1 + R2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; alkyl or polyalkyl octano
  • the amount of the solvent may range from about 5% to about 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise emollient.
  • Useful emollients are natural ester that are based upon mono-, di- and triglycerides.
  • Representative glycerides include any vegetable oil, not being limitative to sunflower seed oil, cottonseed oil, primrose oil, castor and hydrogenated castor oils, rice bran oil, soybean oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter, jojoba oil and combinations thereof.
  • Natural ester emollients principally are based upon mono-, di- and triglycerides.
  • Representative glycerides include any vegetable oil, not being limitative to sunflower seed oil, cottonseed oil, primrose oil, castor and hydrogenated castor oils, rice bran oil, soybean oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter, jojoba oil and combinations thereof.
  • Hydrocarbons include apolar oils, such as petrolatum, mineral oil, Cn- Ci3 isoparaffins, polybutenes, and especially isohexadecane, available commercially as Permethyl 101 A from Presperse Inc.
  • Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be suitable as cosmetically acceptable carriers.
  • Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, hydroxystearic and behenic acids.
  • aliphatic fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanols are common cosmetic emollients that are particularly useful as coupling agents in antiperspirant compositions.
  • Preferred emollient oils are alkyl esters, such as PurSyn Ester 2E7 (neopentylglycol dihexanoate) manufactured by Exxon-Mobil; benzoate esters such as FinsolvTN (Trade Mark) manufactured by Finetex Inc.; hydrogenated polyalkenes, such as Panalane manufactured by Amoco and PureSyn PAO 2 (hydrogenated polydecene) manufactured by Exxon-Mobil; PPG ethers, such as Fluid AP (PPG-14 butylether) manufactured by Union Carbide; isopropyl palmitate; phenylsilicone; and isopropyl myristate.
  • alkyl esters such as PurSyn Ester 2E7 (neopentylglycol dihexanoate) manufactured by Exxon-Mobil
  • benzoate esters such as FinsolvTN (Trade Mark) manufactured by Finetex Inc.
  • hydrogenated polyalkenes such as Pan
  • Said compounds can be used alone or in a mixture thereof and may be used in amounts ranging from about 5% to 30%, in particular in the range of about 8% to 28%, all percentages being by weight of the total composition.
  • composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, actives, vitamins, silicones, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
  • Additional ingredients may represent from about 0.1% to 30%, by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • Figure 1 illustrates the improvement in wight loss (%) of Examples 1-5.
  • Figure 4 illustrates the influence of the total powder in enthalpy energy of melting and hardness.
  • Figure 5 illustrates influence of the total powder in enthalpy energy of crystallization and hardness.
  • Another embodiment of the present invention is related to a process of manufacturing an anhydrous cosmetic composition, as defined in the present application, comprising the steps of:
  • step (iii) filling under agitation around 65°C ⁇ 2°C and cooling at 13°C ⁇ 2°C for make it hard as a stick bar.
  • fragrance(s) can be added in step (ii).
  • a suitable composition according to the present invention are Examples 1 to 6 and suitable compositions according to the state of the art are Examples 7 to 9, as follows: TABLE 1 A - Compositions of the present invention
  • fillers successfully were added to a stick in order to help building the stick matrix structure to improve sensoriality to haired armpits and stability. Not only a drier touch and less oily stains were delivered, but the stability parameters were improved without compromising efficacy, a key consumer driver.
  • Sample 2 is the only sample with significant higher melting point than regular armpit skin temperature (35,9 - 36,7°C). This allows the stick to be completely hard during application, reducing drastically chances of oily releasement or bar melting when compared to the other samples. Melting means that the bar starts to melt, to decompose. This hypothesis is even more clarified by the difference between melting and crystallization temperatures, as sample 2 has the highest difference. This means more energy is necessary to change phases, i.e., a lot of environment temperature is needed to physical-chemically change the stick characteristics.
  • Talc and perlite seem to impact directly in the energy necessary to crystalize the stick waxes. It might be related to talc characteristic to occupy space by organized groups, resulting in smaller crystals formed by the waxes.
  • Perlite as thinner a particle occupy the remaining spaces to improve sensorial issues and prevent weight loss, by decreasing the vague space.
  • Sample 2 is the only powdery version which melting energies decreases compared to non-powdery (1), while keeping the correct hardness at TO and over stability, and weight loss.
  • the test was conducted with 54 volunteers, 28 days of wash out, for 4 days with once a day application. Measurements were conducted at TO, 48h, 72h and 96 hours.
  • the results of the ANCOVA analysis indicate that there are no statistically significant differences for sweat reduction between the product test 5 and the test product 1 at 48, 72 and 96 hours after 4 applications.
  • Sample 2 was completely assessed in terms of Stability and Compatibility and showed improvement when compared to base 1 .
  • Sample 2 is the only with significant higher melting temperature then the skin, it might help to ensure that the bar does not melt during application, probably reducing the oily and wet sensation.
  • Talc and perlite seem to impact directly in the energy necessary to crystalize the stick waxes as crystallization energy decreases as they are being added. Mainly because they occupy free space and allow smaller crystals to be formed faster In complete stability and compatibility, it improves both weight loss and hardness in extreme conditions (45°C).
  • the objective of this study was to evaluate the antiperspirant Example 5 and Example 1 at 48, 72 and 96 hours after 4 applications according to FDA protocol. Based on the clinical results of this study, there were no statistically significant differences for sweat reduction between composition of Example 5 and the composition of Example 1 at 48, 72 and 96 hours after 4 applications.
  • the subjects performed a supervised washing of their armpits with a liquid soap and received a controlled application of 0.4g of the product in a randomized way performed by a trained technician.
  • the subjects were instructed to apply at home the product delivered by the study staff. Then, the subjects returned to the research center for the 2 nd controlled product application performed by a trained technician. The amount of product was 0.4g determined by a calibrated pipette.
  • Hot rooms 80 minutes, 37.8 ⁇ 1 Q C, 30-40% relative humidity were performed again to assess antiperspirant efficacy 48, 72 and 96 hours after the fourth application of the product.
  • Antiperspirant activity was evaluated by determining shifts in ratios of the sweat output by the treated armpit with the Example 5 to the treated armpit with the Example 1 for each volunteer. Estimates of percent reduction and 95% confidence intervals were calculated. The data was analyzed using the Wilcoxon Signed Rank Test.
  • Z [%] [ (PT x C) / (PC x T)] * 100 where: Z is the adjusted ratio; PC is the pretreatment measure corresponding quantity of sweat for the treated armpit with the test product (Ex. 5); PT is the pretreatment measure corresponding quantity of sweat for the treated armpit with the test product (Ex. 1 ); T is the corresponding quantity of sweat for the treated armpit with the test product (Ex. 1); C is the corresponding quantity of sweat for the treated armpit with the test product (Ex. 5).
  • the Wilcoxon-Rank-Test one-sided
  • H1 the median of calculated Z-value is ⁇ 80%; and HO: the median of calculated Z-value is > 100%;
  • H1 the median of calculated Z-value is ⁇ 100%.
  • the confidence level considered in the analysis was 95%.
  • Tables 8, 9, 10, 11 A and 11 B summarize the results of the analysis 48, 72 and 96 hours after four applications.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique en bâton comprenant un composé gras, un tensioactif, des actifs antitranspirants ou déodorants, du talc et de la perlite. La composition cosmétique en bâton de la présente invention fournit un produit ayant une dureté, une stabilité et une sensibilité souhaitées. La présente invention concerne également l'utilisation de la composition cosmétique en bâton et le procédé de fabrication de la composition cosmétique en bâton.
PCT/BR2021/050085 2021-02-26 2021-02-26 Compositions cosmétiques en bâton, utilisation de la composition cosmétique en bâton et procédé de fabrication de la composition cosmétique en bâton WO2022178598A1 (fr)

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FR2103710A FR3120190A1 (fr) 2021-02-26 2021-04-12 compositions cosmetiques en bâton, utilisation de la composition cosmetique en bâton et processus de fabrication de la composition cosmetique en bâton

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3792068A (en) 1971-04-02 1974-02-12 Procter & Gamble Dry powder aerosol antiperspirant composition incorporating dry powder antiperspirant active complex and process for its preparation
US20170216156A1 (en) * 2014-10-23 2017-08-03 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Performance-enhanced antiperspirants
WO2018076083A1 (fr) * 2016-10-31 2018-05-03 L'oreal Composition déodorante anti-transpirantes de masquage
WO2021016683A1 (fr) * 2019-07-31 2021-02-04 L'oreal Composition antitranspirante et désodorisante anhydre, son procédé de production et son utilisation

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2954138B1 (fr) * 2009-12-17 2012-03-02 Oreal Procede cosmetique de traitement des odeurs corporelles utilisant une composition a base de bacteriocines
FR3023475B1 (fr) * 2014-07-09 2016-07-22 Oreal Composition cosmetique ou dermatologique solide anhydre a base de particules a liberation d'agent benefique
ES2956432T3 (es) * 2014-10-31 2023-12-21 Oreal Composición antitranspirante que comprende cristales líquidos
DE102015225971A1 (de) * 2015-12-18 2017-06-22 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zur Reduzierung des durch die Transpiration ausgelösten Körpergeruchs unter Verwendung von speziellen Proteinhydrolysaten

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3792068A (en) 1971-04-02 1974-02-12 Procter & Gamble Dry powder aerosol antiperspirant composition incorporating dry powder antiperspirant active complex and process for its preparation
US20170216156A1 (en) * 2014-10-23 2017-08-03 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Performance-enhanced antiperspirants
WO2018076083A1 (fr) * 2016-10-31 2018-05-03 L'oreal Composition déodorante anti-transpirantes de masquage
WO2021016683A1 (fr) * 2019-07-31 2021-02-04 L'oreal Composition antitranspirante et désodorisante anhydre, son procédé de production et son utilisation

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