WO2013013902A2 - Procédé pour le traitement de la transpiration humaine à l'aide d'un sel de cation multivalent et d'un sel d'anion - Google Patents

Procédé pour le traitement de la transpiration humaine à l'aide d'un sel de cation multivalent et d'un sel d'anion Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013013902A2
WO2013013902A2 PCT/EP2012/061876 EP2012061876W WO2013013902A2 WO 2013013902 A2 WO2013013902 A2 WO 2013013902A2 EP 2012061876 W EP2012061876 W EP 2012061876W WO 2013013902 A2 WO2013013902 A2 WO 2013013902A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
calcium
salt
magnesium
anion
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PCT/EP2012/061876
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English (en)
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WO2013013902A3 (fr
Inventor
Odile Aubrun
Bruno Biatry
Laure Ramos-Stanbury
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from FR1156657A external-priority patent/FR2978033B1/fr
Priority claimed from FR1156656A external-priority patent/FR2978032B1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2013013902A2 publication Critical patent/WO2013013902A2/fr
Publication of WO2013013902A3 publication Critical patent/WO2013013902A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/24—Phosphorous; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for the treatment of human perspiration, which comprises:
  • composition A comprising at least one polyvalent cation halide
  • composition B comprising at least one non-nitrogenous salt of an anion; the said halide and the said anion salt forming in situ, on the skin, by cation/anion ionic interaction, an antiperspirant salt.
  • the present invention relates to a method for the treatment of human perspiration resulting from perspiration, which comprises at least:
  • composition A' comprising at least one polyvalent cation non- halogenated salt
  • composition B' comprising at least one anion salt; the said polyvalent cation salt and the said anion salt forming in situ, on the skin, by cation/anion ionic interaction, an antiperspirant salt.
  • the armpits and also certain other parts of the body are generally the site of much discomfort that may arise directly or indirectly from perspiration.
  • This perspiration often leads to unpleasant and disagreeable sensations that are mainly due to the presence of sweat resulting from perspiration, which may, in certain cases, make the skin and clothing wet, especially in the region of the armpits or of the back, thus leaving visible marks.
  • the presence of sweat can give rise to the production of body odours, which are generally unpleasant.
  • sweat may also leave salts and/or proteins on the surface of the skin, which may result in whitish marks on the clothing. Such discomfort should not be disregarded, even in the case of moderate perspiration.
  • antiperspirant products containing substances that have the effect of limiting or indeed even preventing the flow of sweat in order to overcome the problems mentioned above.
  • These products are generally available in the form of roll-ons, sticks, aerosols or sprays.
  • Antiperspirant substances generally consist of aluminium and/or zirconium chlorohydrates. These substances make it possible to reduce the flow of sweat by forming a plug in the sweat duct. However, these substances may cause discomfort in some users in connection with the acidic pH of the formulations.
  • these antiperspirant substances may also leave marks during their application, which has the consequence of staining the clothing.
  • the presence of aluminium and/or zirconium salts remains essential in these antiperspirant formulations.
  • Patent FR 2 940 062 as alternative to aluminium and/or zirconium chlorohydrates, for a multicomponent agent for the treatment of human perspiration comprising two components which are intended to be mixed before application to the skin or to be applied to the skin simultaneously, separately or offset in time; the said components being capable of reacting with one another to form one or more physical interactions in order to confer an antiperspirant effect.
  • Mentioned among the two components capable of reacting by physical bonding are cations and anions and more particularly calcium chloride and ammonium hydrogencarbonate.
  • the antiperspirant effectiveness obtained is not completely satisfactory.
  • the Applicant Company has discovered, surprisingly, that it is possible to achieve this objective by resorting to a cosmetic method for the treatment of human perspiration and optionally of the body odours resulting from perspiration, which comprises: (i) either the extemporaneous mixing of at least one composition A and of at least one composition B packaged separately and the application of the said mixture to the surface of the skin;
  • composition A comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polyvalent cation halide
  • composition B comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one non-nitrogenous salt of an anion; the said halide and the said anion salt forming in situ, on the skin, by cation/anion ionic interaction, an antiperspirant salt.
  • the present invention thus relates to a cosmetic method for the treatment of human perspiration resulting from perspiration, which comprises:
  • composition A comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polyvalent cation halide
  • composition B comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one non-nitrogenous salt of an anion
  • the Applicant Company has discovered, surprisingly, that it is possible to achieve this objective by resorting to a method for the treatment of human perspiration resulting from perspiration, which comprises at least:
  • composition A' comprising at least one polyvalent cation non- halogenated salt
  • composition B' comprising at least one anion salt; the said polyvalent cation salt and the said anion salt forming in situ, on the skin, by cation/anion ionic interaction, an antiperspirant salt.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for the treatment of human perspiration resulting from perspiration, which comprises at least:
  • composition A' comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polyvalent cation non-halogenated salt
  • composition B' comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one nitrogenous or non-nitrogenous anion salt; the said polyvalent cation salt and the said anion salt forming in situ, on the skin, by cation/anion ionic interaction, an antiperspirant salt.
  • antiperspirant agent means any substance or any composition which has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat and/or of reducing the sensation of dampness associated with human sweat, and/or of masking human sweat.
  • cosmetically acceptable medium means a medium that is compatible with the skin and/or its superficial body growths or mucous membranes, having a pleasant colour, odour and feel and not causing any unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness or redness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
  • polyvalent cation is understood to mean any monoatomic or polyatomic ion comprising at least two positive electric charges and having a valency of at least 2 and preferably 2 or 3.
  • anion is understood to mean any monoatomic or polyatomic ion carrying one or more negative electric charge(s).
  • compositions A and B or of the compositions A' and B'
  • mixing at the moment of use of the compositions A and B or of the compositions A' and B' which are formulated beforehand, each in different packagings.
  • non-nitrogenous salt is understood to mean any salt not comprising a nitrogen atom in its structure, in particular not comprising a cation of the ammonium or amine type.
  • the polyvalent cations of the halides present in the composition A of the invention are preferably inorganic cations and are more preferably chosen from:
  • alkaline earth cations such as beryllium, magnesium, calcium, strontium or barium;
  • halogens are a chemical series composed of the chemical elements from Group 17 of the Periodic Table, also known as Group VII or Vila. Use will be made, as halogens, of fluorides (fluorine), chlorides (chlorine), bromides (bromine) and iodides (iodine) and more particularly chlorides.
  • magnesium halides and in particular of magnesium chloride.
  • concentration of the polyvalent cation halide of the invention in the composition preferably varies from 0.1 % to 20% and more preferably from 0.5% to 15%.
  • the polyvalent cations of the non-halogenated salts present in the composition A' are preferably inorganic cations and are chosen from:
  • alkaline earth cations such as beryllium, magnesium, calcium, strontium or barium;
  • transition metal cations such as titanium (Ti 2+ , Ti 3+ , Ti 4+ ), manganese (Mn 2+ , Mn 3+ , Mn 4+ , Mn 7+ ), zinc (Zn 2+ ), zirconium (Zr 4+ ), hafnium (Hf 4* ) or aluminium (Al 3+ ).
  • the preferred alkaline earth cations will be chosen from strontium, magnesium and calcium.
  • the preferred transition metal cations will be chosen from zinc, manganese and aluminium.
  • the polyvalent metal cation salts which can be used according to the invention exhibit a solubility in water of greater than 2%, between 15°C and 30°C at a pH of between 5 and 9.
  • carboxylic acid salts such as acetates, propionates, pyrrol idonecarboxylates (or pidolates) or sorbates; poly hydroxy I ated carboxylic acid salts, such as gluconates, heptagluconates, ketogluconates, lactate gluconates, ascorbates or pantothenates; mono- or polycarboxyl hydroxy acid salts, such as citrates or lactates; amino acid salts, such as aspartates or glutamates; or fulvate salts.
  • carboxylic acid salts such as acetates, propionates, pyrrol idonecarboxylates (or pidolates) or sorbates
  • poly hydroxy I ated carboxylic acid salts such as gluconates, heptagluconates, ketogluconates, lactate gluconates, ascorbates or pantothenates
  • mono- or polycarboxyl hydroxy acid salts such as cit
  • SO 4 2" - sulphate (SO 4 2" ) salts such as magnesium sulphate, double sulphate salts, such as aluminium double sulphates, for example alum: KAI(SO 4 )2.12H 2 O, sulphonate (SO3 2" ) salts, hydrogensulphate (HSO 4 " ) salts or hydrogensulphonate (HSO3 " ) salts. Mention may also be made of nitrates, such as calcium nitrate; Ca(NOs)2.
  • Use will more preferably be made of acetate salts, lactate salts, lactate gluconate salts, aspartate salts, pantothenate salts, ascorbate salts, pidolate salts, bicarbonate salts, propionate salts, sorbate salts or fulvate salts.
  • the choice will preferably be made of calcium aspartate, calcium lactate, calcium propionate, calcium pidolate, calcium pantothenate, calcium bicarbonate, calcium sorbate, calcium ascorbate, calcium lactate gluconate or calcium fulvate and more particularly of calcium lactate, calcium propionate, calcium pidolate, calcium pantothenate or calcium ascorbate.
  • the concentration of the polyvalent cation non-halogenated salt of the invention in the composition preferably varies from 0.1 % to 20% and more preferably from 0.5% to 15%.
  • the anions in the non-nitrogenous salt form present in the composition B or B' are preferably inorganic anions and are more preferably chosen from carbonate (CO3 2" ), hydrogencarbonate (HCO3 " ), phosphate (PO 4 3 ⁇ ), polyphosphates, such as diphosphate P2O 7 4" (also known as pyrophosphate) or triphosphate P3O10 5" , phosphonate (PO3 3" ), hydrogenphosphate (HPO 4 2” ), sulphate (SO 4 2” ), sulphonate (SO3 ), hydrogensulphate (HSO 4 " ) or hydrogensulphonate (HSO3 " ).
  • Use will more particularly be made of hydrogenphosphate (HPO 4 2" ) or hydrogencarbonate
  • the anion non-nitrogenous salt can be chosen, for example, from:
  • alkali metal salts of an alkali metal, such as potassium or sodium.
  • an alkali metal salt in particular a sodium or potassium salt.
  • Use will preferably be made of sodium hydrogencarbonate NaHCO3.
  • ammonium salts or amine salts in particular salts of mono-, di- or trialkanolamines; comprising from 1 to 3 identical or different Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals.
  • alkanolamine compounds of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N- dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2- propanediol or tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane.
  • Salt resulting from the cation/anion interaction Generally, the polyvalent cation salt and the anion salt form, when they are brought into contact, a salt having a solubility product in water at 25°C of less than 10 "4 and preferably of less than 10 "5 , more preferably still of less than 10 "8 .
  • solubility product in water at 25°C is understood to mean the equilibrium constant at 25°C corresponding to the dissolution of the salt X n Y m in water.
  • the solubility product is written Ks and has the value: Mention may be made, as examples of antiperspirant salts formed after application of the composition A and of the composition B (or of the composition A' and of the composition B'), of the following salts and their solubility product: CaSO 4 (7.1 x 10 "5 ), CaCO 3 (4.96 x 10 “9 ), Ca 3 (PO 4 ) 2 (2.07 x 10 "33 ), MgCO 3 (6.82 x 10 "6 ), Mg 3 (PO 4 ) 2 (9.86 x 10 "25 ), MnCO 3 (2.24 x 10 "11 ), SrCO 3 (5.6 x 10 "10 ) or ZnCO 3 (1 .19 x 10 "10 ).
  • the values cited are those referenced in the Handbook of Chemistry and Physics (70th edition), CRC Press, pages b207-b208.
  • the molar ratio of the cation of the composition A to the anion of the composition B preferably varies from 10/1 to 1/10 and more preferably from 4/1 to 1/4.
  • the molar ratio of the cation of the composition A' to the anion of the composition B' preferably varies from 10/1 to 1/10 and more preferably from 4/1 to 1/4.
  • the total concentration of cation halide and of anion non-nitrogenous salt preferably varies from 2 to 25% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions A and B.
  • the total concentration of cation non-halogenated salt and of anion salt preferably varies from 2 to 25% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions A' and B'.
  • the composition A comprising the polyvalent cation halide (or the composition A' comprising the polyvalent cation non-halogenated salt), and the composition B, comprising the anion non-nitrogenous salt (or the composition B'), which are packaged separately, are mixed immediately before use (extemporaneous mixing) and then the mixture thus obtained is applied to the surface of the skin to be treated.
  • compositions A and B or the compositions A' and B' will preferably be in the form of aqueous solutions, alcoholic solutions or aqueous/alcoholic solutions.
  • the composition A and the composition B or the composition A' and the composition B' will be packaged separately and will be applied simultaneously to the surface of the skin to be treated.
  • compositions A and B or the compositions A' and B' can, for example, be packaged in a device comprising at least two compartments comprising respectively the composition A and the composition B or respectively the composition A' and the composition B', such as a twin tube, a two-compartment pump-action spray, an aerosol device comprising two compartments which can comprise one or more outlet orifices (single-nozzle or twin-nozzle), a device provided with an openwork wall, such as a grating, comprising two compartments; a device comprising two compartments each equipped with a ball applicator (multiball roll-on); or a double stick.
  • a device comprising at least two compartments comprising respectively the composition A and the composition B or respectively the composition A' and the composition B'
  • a twin tube such as a twin tube, a two-compartment pump-action spray, an aerosol device comprising two compartments which can comprise one or more outlet orifices (single-nozzle or twin-nozzle), a device provided with an open
  • the composition A and the composition B or else the composition A' and the composition B' will be packaged separately and will be applied sequentially to the surface of the skin.
  • the time interval separating the application of the composition A or A' from the application of the composition B or B' can vary from 10 seconds to 24 hours, more preferably from 2 minutes to 24 hours and more preferably still from 1 hour to 24 hours.
  • the composition A or A' comprising the polyvalent cation salt will be applied first.
  • compositions A and B or else the compositions A' and B' can be packaged in the same types of devices recommended in the second alternative form of perspiration treatment method.
  • compositions A and/or B or the compositions A' and/or B' according to the invention can, independently of one another, be provided in all the formulation forms conventionally used for a topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous gels, aqueous solutions or aqueous/alcoholic solutions.
  • a fatty or oily phase By adding a fatty or oily phase, they may also be provided in the form of dispersions of lotion type, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or conversely (W/O), or of suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or alternatively of multiple emulsions (W/O/W or O/W/O), of microemulsions, of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type, or of wax/aqueous phase dispersions.
  • These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
  • compositions A and/or B or the compositions A' and/or B' may especially be packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump-action spray; packaged in a device equipped with an openwork wall, especially a grating; packaged in a device equipped with a ball applicator ("roll-on"); packaged in the form of sticks or in the form of loose or compacted powder.
  • they contain the ingredients generally used in products of this type, which are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • compositions A and/or B or the compositions A' and/or B' according to the invention can be anhydrous.
  • anhydrous composition means a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, indeed even less than 0.5% of water, and especially devoid of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water contributed by the mixed ingredients.
  • compositions A and/or B according to the invention may be solid, in particular in stick form; or in the form of loose or compacted powder.
  • solid composition means that the maximum force measured by texturometry during the penetration of a probe into the sample of formula must be at least equal to 0.25 newtons, in particular at least equal to 0.30 newtons and especially at least equal to 0.35 newtons, assessed under precise measuring conditions as follows.
  • the formulae are poured hot into jars 4 cm in diameter and 3 cm deep. Cooling is performed at ambient temperature. The hardness of the formulae produced is measured after an interval of 24 hours.
  • the jars containing the samples are characterized in texturometry using a texture analyser such as the machine sold by the company Rheo TA-XT2, according to the following protocol: a stainless- steel ball probe 5 mm in diameter is brought into contact with the sample at a speed of 1 mm/s.
  • the measuring system detects the interface with the sample, with a detection threshold equal to 0.005 newtons.
  • the probe penetrates 0.3 mm into the sample, at a speed of 0.1 mm/s.
  • the measuring machine records the change in force measured in compression over time, during the penetration phase.
  • the hardness of the sample corresponds to the average of the maximum force values detected during penetration, over at least three measurements.
  • the formulation forms will preferably be aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic solutions.
  • compositions A and/or B or the compositions A' and/or B' according to the invention intended for the cosmetic use can comprise at least one aqueous phase. They are especially formulated as aqueous lotions or as water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions or as multiple emulsions (oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in-oil-in-water triple emulsion (such emulsions are known and described, for example, by C. Fox in "Cosmetics and Toiletries” - November 1986 - Vol. 101 - pages 101 -1 12)).
  • the aqueous phase of the said compositions contains water and generally other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents.
  • the water-soluble or water-miscible solvents comprise short chain, for example Ci-C 4 , monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, for instance ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2- ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol.
  • Propylene glycol and glycerol, propane-1 ,3-diol will be used more particularly.
  • emulsifiers which can be used in oil-in-water emulsions or oil-in-water-in-oil triple emulsions, of emulsifiers having an HLB of greater than or equal to 8, in particular ranging from 8 to 25.
  • non-ionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.
  • emulsifiers which can be used in water-in-oil emulsions or water-in-oil-in-water triple emulsions, of emulsifiers having an HLB (hydrophilic/lipophilic balance) of less than or equal to 6, in particular ranging from 4 to 6.
  • HLB hydrophilic/lipophilic balance
  • first emulsifiers of polyol fatty esters, in particular glycerol or sorbitol fatty esters, and in particular polyol isostearic, oleic and ricinoleic esters, such as the mixture of petrolatum, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, glyceryl isostearate, hydrogenated castor oil and ozokerite sold under the name Protegin W® by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate; polysaccharide esters and ethers, such as "Methyl glucose dioleate”; metallic fatty acid salts such as magnesium lanolate; dimethicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone copolyols.
  • polyol fatty esters in particular glycerol or sorbitol fatty esters
  • Ri denotes a linear or branched C12-C20 and preferably C12-C18 alkyl group
  • R 2 denotes the group: ⁇ CnH2n ⁇ (-OC2H 4 -) x ⁇ (-OC 3 H6-)y ⁇ O— R 3 ;
  • R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;
  • a is an integer ranging from 1 to about 500;
  • b denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 500;
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 12 and preferably from 2 to 5;
  • x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 50 and preferably from 1 to 30;
  • y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to about 49 and preferably from 0 to 29, with the proviso that, when y is other than zero, the ratio x/y is greater than 1 and preferably ranges from 2 to 1 1 .
  • alkyl dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers of formula (I) that are preferred, mention will be made more particularly of Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and more particularly the mixture Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and Dimethicone (INCI name), for instance the product sold under the trade name Abil EM90 by the company Goldschmidt, or alternatively the mixture (Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate), for instance the product sold under the trade name Abil WE09 by the same company.
  • R 4 denotes the group: ⁇ C m H2m ⁇ (-OC2H 4 -) s ⁇ (-OC3H 6 -)t ⁇ O— R 5 ;
  • R 5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from
  • c is an integer ranging from 1 to about 500;
  • d denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 500;
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 12 and preferably from 2 to 5;
  • s denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 50 and preferably from 1 to 30;
  • t denotes an integer ranging from 0 to about 50 and preferably from 0 to 30; with the proviso that the sum s+t is greater than or equal to 1 .
  • PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone and more particularly the mixture Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone (INCI name), such as the product sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade name Silicone DC 5225 C or KF-6040 from the company Shin-Etsu.
  • Use will be made more particularly of a mixture of PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and even more particularly of a mixture of (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone) and of Cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 Dimethicone and Dimethicone or of (Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate).
  • water-in-oil emulsifiers mention may also be made of non-ionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acids and polyols, alkylpolyglycosides (APGs), sugar esters and mixtures thereof.
  • APGs alkylpolyglycosides
  • non-ionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acids and polyols use may be made especially of fatty acid esters of polyols, the fatty acid especially containing a Cs- C2 4 alkyl chain, and the polyols being, for example, glycerol and sorbitan.
  • Fatty acid esters of polyols that may especially be mentioned include isostearic acid esters of polyols, stearic acid esters of polyols, and mixtures thereof, in particular isostearic acid esters of glycerol and/or sorbitan.
  • Stearic acid esters of polyols that may especially be mentioned include the polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 by the company ICI.
  • Glycerol and/or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned, for example, include polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglyceryl isostearate (3 mol) sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyglyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt
  • sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI
  • sorbitan glyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company
  • the emulsifier may also be chosen from alkylpolyglycosides with an HLB of less than 7, for example those represented by the general formula (1 ) below: R-0-(G)x (1 ) in which R represents a branched and/or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and x is a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 4, and G especially denotes glucose, fructose or galactose.
  • R-0-(G)x (1 ) in which R represents a branched and/or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and x is a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 4, and G especially denotes glucose, fructose or galactose.
  • the unsaturated alkyl radical may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations, and in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations.
  • This alkylpolyglucoside may be used as a mixture with a coemulsifier, more especially with a fatty alcohol and especially a fatty alcohol containing the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglucoside, i.e. comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and containing a branched and/or unsaturated chain, for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside, and oleyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is oleyl glucoside, optionally in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in the document WO-A- 92/06778.
  • Use may be made, for example, of the mixture of isostearyl glucoside and isostearyl alcohol, sold under the name Montanov WO 18 by the company SEPPIC, and also the mixture of octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside sold under the name Fludanov 20X by the company SEPPIC.
  • succinic-terminated polyolefins for instance esterified succinic-terminated polyisobutylenes and salts thereof, especially the diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol or the commercial product Chemcinnate 2000.
  • oxyalkylenated silicone elastomers in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated and more particularly polyoxyethylenated silicone elastomers, such as those described in the documents US-A-5 236 986, US-A-5 412 004, US-A-5 837 793 and US-A-5 81 1 487.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is preferably conveyed in the form of a gel in at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylenated elastomer is often in the form of non- spherical particles.
  • Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers are especially:
  • KSG-21 (containing 27% active material. INCI name: Dimethicone/PEG-10 Dimethicone Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer),
  • KSG-20 (containing 95% active material. INCI name: PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer),
  • KSG-30 (containing 100% active material. INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer),
  • KSG-31 (containing 25% active material. INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer),
  • KSG-32 or KSG-42 or KSG-320 or KSG-30 containing 25% active material.
  • INCI name Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
  • KSG-210 (containing 25% active material. INCI name: Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer),
  • KSG-310 lauryl-modified crosslinked polyoxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane in mineral oil
  • DC9010 (containing 9% active material. INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer)
  • DC901 1 (containing 1 1 % active material). These products are generally provided in the form of oily gels containing silicone elastomer particles.
  • KSG-210 (INCI name: Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer), which contains 25% silicone elastomer active material in silicone oil, is preferably used.
  • KSG-710 (containing 25% active material. INCI name: Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer),
  • the total amount of emulsifiers in the composition will preferably be, in the composition according to the invention, at active material contents ranging from 1 % to 8% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions A and/or B or the compositions A' and/or B' of the invention in the emulsion form can be prepared according to the phase inversion manufacturing technique.
  • This technique is, in its principle, well known and is described in particular in the article "Phase Inversion Emulsification" by Th. Forster et al. which appeared in Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 106, December 1991 , pages 49-52.
  • a fatty phase, on the one hand, and an aqueous phase, on the other hand, are mixed with stirring in the presence of a suitable emulsifying system, the said mixing being carried out at a temperature greater than the phase inversion temperature (PIT) of the medium, so as to obtain an emulsion of water-in-oil type,
  • PIT phase inversion temperature
  • the temperature of the emulsion thus obtained is brought back to a temperature lower than the said phase inversion temperature, whereby an ultrafine emulsion of oil-in-water type is obtained
  • Inorganic nanopigments are introduced during the implementation of stage (i) and/or on conclusion of stage (ii).
  • the systems suitable are emulsifiers of non-ionic type chosen from polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated fatty alcohols (i.e., compounds obtained by reaction between an aliphatic fatty alcohol, such as behenyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol, and ethylene oxide or propylene oxide or an ethylene oxide/propylene oxide mixture) and esters of fatty acids and of polyols, which are optionally polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated (i.e., compounds obtained by reaction of a fatty acid, such as stearic acid or oleic acid, with a polyol, such as, for example, an alkylene glycol or glycerol or a polyglycerol, optionally in the presence of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide or an ethylene oxide/propylene oxide mixture), or their mixtures.
  • polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated fatty alcohols i.e
  • the content of emulsifying agent(s) is between 0.5% and 40% by weight and preferably between 2% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • compositions A and/or B or the compositions A' and/or B' according to the invention can comprise at least one water-immiscible organic liquid phase referred to as fatty phase.
  • This phase generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds that render the said phase water-immiscible.
  • the said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25°C).
  • the water-immiscible organic liquid phase in accordance with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile oil and/or one non-volatile oil and optionally at least one structuring agent.
  • oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (20- 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105 Pa).
  • the oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 "3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the oil may be chosen from any physiologically acceptable oil and in particular cosmetically acceptable oil, especially mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic oils; in particular volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon oil means an oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functional groups.
  • the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100 000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50 000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 300 000 mPa.s.
  • volatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
  • hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin also known as isoparaffins
  • isododecane also known as 2,2,4,4,6- pentamethylheptane
  • isodecane and isohexadecane for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in Patent Application DE10 2008 012 457 from the company Cognis.
  • volatile silicones for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8x10 "6 m 2 /s) and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane or dodecamethylpentasiloxane;
  • R represents an alkyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be replaced by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
  • oils of general formula (I) that may be mentioned are:
  • non-volatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
  • hydrocarbon vegetable oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or wheatgerm oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Sasol, jojoba oil
  • - synthetic esters especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with Ri + R 2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;
  • fluoro oils that are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based, for instance fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as described in the document EP-A-847 752;
  • silicone oils for instance non-volatile linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and
  • compositions A and/or B or the compositions A' and/or B' according to the invention comprising a fatty phase may also contain at least one agent for structuring the said fatty phase, which may preferably be chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, thickeners, inorganic or organic lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof. It is understood that the amount of these compounds may be adjusted by a person skilled in the art so as not to harm the effect desired in the context of the present invention.
  • the wax is in general a lipophilic compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change in state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular of greater than or equal to 55°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in Standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and it is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at ambient temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • waxes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, refined sunflower wax sold under the name Sunflower Wax by Koster Keunen, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
  • hydrocarbon waxes for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax
  • montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax refined sunflower wax sold
  • Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Mention may especially be made, among these waxes, of isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference lso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1 ,1 ,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C3o -4 5 alkyl dimethicone) or fluoro waxes.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference lso-Jojoba
  • waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in Application FR-A-2 792 190.
  • a wax that may be used is a C2o-C 4 o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
  • Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
  • microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 1 14S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, the commercial products Performalene 400 Polyethylene and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene from New Phase Technologies, Performalene 655 Polyethylene or paraffin waxes, for instance the wax having the INCI name
  • composition according to the invention will preferably comprise a content of wax(es) ranging from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5% to 15% and more particularly from 6% to 15%.
  • anhydrous solid compositions in stick form use will be made of polyethylene microwaxes in the form of crystallites with an aspect ratio at least equal to 2, and with a melting point ranging from 70 to 1 10°C and preferably from 70 to 100°C, in order to reduce or indeed even eliminate the presence of strata in the solid composition.
  • crystallites in needle form and especially the dimensions thereof may be characterized visually according to the following method.
  • the wax is deposited on a microscope slide, which is placed on a hotplate.
  • the slide and the wax are heated to a temperature generally at least 5°C higher than the melting point of the wax or of the mixture of waxes under consideration.
  • the liquid thus obtained and the microscope slide are allowed to cool in order to solidify.
  • Observation of the crystallites is performed using a Leica DMLB100 optical microscope, with an objective lens selected as a function of the size of the objects to be viewed, and under polarized light.
  • the dimensions of the crystallites are measured using image analysis software such as that sold by the company Microvision.
  • the crystallite polyethylene waxes in accordance with the invention preferably have an average length ranging from 5 to 10 ⁇ .
  • the term "average length" denotes the dimension given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the population, which is written as D50.
  • the term "pasty compound” is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change in state, which has in the solid form an anisotropic crystal organization, and that comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of vegetable origin.
  • a pasty compound may be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of vegetable origin.
  • esters the following are especially preferred:
  • - esters of a glycerol oligomer especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially such as those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol,
  • esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, such as
  • Inorganic and lipophilic thickeners, gelling agents and suspending agents Use may be made, as inorganic lipophilic thickener, gelling agent or suspending agent, of modified clays which are preferably chosen from hydrophobically modified montmorillonite clays, such as hydrophobically modified bentonites or hectorites.
  • modified clays which are preferably chosen from hydrophobically modified montmorillonite clays, such as hydrophobically modified bentonites or hectorites.
  • CTFA name Stearalkonium Bentonite
  • CTFA name reaction product of bentonite and the quaternary ammonium stearalkonium chloride
  • CTFA name Disteardimonium Hectorite
  • Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel by the company Elementis Specialities.
  • fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 ⁇ . This is because it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is especially possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000).
  • hydrophobic groups may be also dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000).
  • Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa
  • Cab- O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
  • the hydrophobic fumed silica in particular has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
  • the organic lipophilic thickeners or gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, for instance those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by the company Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by the company Grant Industries and SF 1204® and JK 1 13® by the company General Electric; ethylcellulose, for instance the product sold under the name Ethocel® by the company Dow Chemical; galactomannans comprising from one to six and in particular from two to four hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, for instance guar gum alkylated by Ci to C6 and in particular
  • Block copolymers of "diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” type, of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as the products sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type, such as the products sold under the name Kraton® by the company Shell Chemical Co., or of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, and mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by the company Penreco under the name Versagel®, for instance the mixture of butylene/etnylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).
  • Lipophilic thickeners or gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers with a weight-average molecular weight of less than 100 000, comprising a) a polymer backbone with hydrocarbon repeat units containing at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one optionally functionalized pendent fatty chain and/or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain, containing from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon units, as described in Applications WO-A-02/056847 and WO-A-02/47619, in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5 783 657.
  • polymers with a weight-average molecular weight of less than 100 000 comprising a) a polymer backbone with hydrocarbon repeat units containing at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one optionally functionalized pendent fatty chain and/or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain, containing
  • lipophilic thickeners or gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of fatty acid esters of dextrin, such as dextrin palmitates, especially such as the products sold under the name Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company Chiba Flour.
  • Silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type may also be used, such as those described in the documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441 , US-A-6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families:
  • - polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
  • the thickening agents, gelling agents and/or suspending agents are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight and more preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amounts of these various constituents that may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for treating perspiration.
  • moisture absorbers for instance perlites and preferably expanded perlites.
  • the perlites that may be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have the composition:
  • the perlite is ground, dried and then calibrated in a first step.
  • the product obtained known as perlite ore, is grey-coloured and has a size of about 100 ⁇ .
  • the perlite ore is then expanded (1000°C/2 seconds) to give more or less white particles.
  • the temperature reaches 850-900°C, the water trapped in the structure of the material evaporates and brings about the expansion of the material relative to its original volume.
  • the expanded perlite particles in accordance with the invention may be obtained via the expansion process described in Patent US 5 002 698.
  • the perlite particles used will be ground: in this case, they are known as Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP). They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D 50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 ⁇ and preferably from 0.5 to 40 ⁇ .
  • EMP Expanded Milled Perlite
  • the perlite particles used have a loose bulk density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m 3 (Standard DIN 53468) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg/m 3 .
  • the expanded perlite particles according to the invention have a water- absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 200% to 1500% and preferably from 250% to 800%.
  • the wet point corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 1 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • This method is derived directly from that of the oil uptake applied to solvents.
  • the measurements are taken in the same manner by means of the wet point and the flow point, which have, respectively, the following definitions: wet point: weight expressed in grams per 100 g of product corresponding to the production of a homogeneous paste during the addition of a solvent to a powder; flow point: weight expressed in grams per 100 g of product at and above which the amount of solvent is greater than the capacity of the powder to retain it. This is reflected by the production of a more or less homogeneous mixture that flows over the glass plate.
  • the wet point and the flow point are measured according to the following protocol: Protocol for measuring the water absorption
  • compositions A and/or B or the compositions A' and/or B' can additionally comprise deodorant agents.
  • deodorant active agent refers to any substance that is capable of masking, absorbing, improving and/or reducing the unpleasant odour resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.
  • the deodorant agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odour microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( ⁇ Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 -(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea ( ⁇ Triclocarban) or 3,7,1 1 - trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol ( ⁇ Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1 ,3- diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1 ,2-decanediol (Symdariol from the company Symrise), glycerol derivatives
  • deodorant active agents in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of - zinc salts, for instance zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulphonate; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid.
  • - zinc salts for instance zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulphonate; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid.
  • the deodorant active agents may be odour absorbers such as zinc ricinoleate, sodium bicarbonate; metallic or non-metallic zeolites, cyclodextrins or alum.
  • It may also be a chelating agent such as Dissolvine GL-47-S from Akzo Nobel, EDTA; DPTA. It may also be a polyol such as glycerol or propane-1 ,3-diol (Zemea Propanediol sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts).
  • it may be an enzyme inhibitor such as triethyl citrate.
  • some of the agents mentioned above may be incorporated into spherules, especially ionic or nonionic vesicles, and/or particles (capsules and/or spheres).
  • the deodorant agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 % to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition A or B.
  • compositions A and/or B or the compositions A' and/or B' according to the invention will additionally comprise an organic powder.
  • organic powder means any solid that is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25°C).
  • compositions A and/or B or the compositions A' and/or B' according to the invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, fragrances, thickening agents or suspending agents, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, fragrances, thickening agents or suspending agents, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • compositions according to the invention may also be pressurized and may be packaged in an aerosol device formed by: (A) a container comprising an antiperspirant composition as defined previously,
  • the propellants generally used in products of this type and that are well known to those skilled in the art are, for instance, dimethyl ether (DME); volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorohydrocarbon and/or fluorohydrocarbon; among these derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company DuPont de Nemours under the names Freon® and Dymel®, and in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1 ,1 -difluoroethane sold especially under the trade name Dymel 152 A by the company DuPont. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air may also be used as propellant.
  • DME dimethyl ether
  • volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorohydrocarbon and/or
  • compositions containing perlite particles as defined previously and the propellant(s) may be in the same compartment or in different compartments in the aerosol container.
  • concentration of propellant generally varies from 5% to 95% by weight of pressurized composition, and more preferentially from 50% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the pressurized composition.
  • the dispensing means which forms a part of the aerosol device, is generally formed by a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, which itself comprises a nozzle via which the aerosol composition is vaporized.
  • the container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be made of glass, polymer or metal, optionally coated with a protective varnish coat.
  • compositions Ai and Bi according to Example 1 were evaluated on a panel of 22 women, according to the following protocol:
  • composition Ai and then the composition Bi are applied with occlusion for 1 hour for 4 consecutive days, with gentle massaging of the antiperspirant products. Total amount applied: 3.75 mg/cm . 24 hours after the last application:
  • the amount of sweat is evaluated by weighing the cellulose squares before and after sweating.
  • phase A and B are heated separately to 70°C.
  • a and B are mixed with stirring for 5 minutes using an Ultra-Turrax.
  • the mixture is then allowed to cool to 55° C using a paddle stirrer.
  • Phase A and phase B are introduced.
  • the mixture is heated at 90°C until homogenized, and sufficient stirring is carried out, if necessary.
  • Phase C is added at 90°C.
  • This phase can comprise preservatives, active agents or other temperature-sensitive starting materials which it is preferable not to heat for an excessive period of time.
  • the mixture is heated to 95°C in order to be able to pour sticks at 91 -92°C.
  • Polyethylene glycol (8 OE) distearate (PEG-400 distearate 6.5
  • the cydopentasiloxane is heated to 65°C.
  • the other ingredients are added (one by one) while remaining at 65-70°C.
  • the combined mixture is homogenized (transparent solution) for 15 minutes.
  • the perlite is added. Cooling is carried out to about 55°C (a few °C above the thickening of the mixture) and the mixture is poured into sticks. The sticks are placed at 4°C for 30 minutes.
  • Stick A 3 is applied first, followed by stick B 3 approximately 15 minutes later.
  • Aerosol B Ingredient (INCI Name) Aerosol B
  • the salts are dispersed in the mixture of the other starting materials forming phase A, using a paddle stirrer. Pressurization is carried out in an aerosol can with isobutane.
  • Aerosol A4 is applied in the morning, and aerosol B is applied in the evening or during the day.
  • Composition Ai is prepared with the ingredients described below. The percentage shown is the percentage of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • Composition B 5 is prepared with the ingredients described below. The percentage shown is the percentage of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • compositions A 5 and B 5 according to Example 5 were evaluated on a panel of 22 women, according to the following protocol:
  • composition A 5 and then, 30 minutes later, the composition B 5 are applied with occlusion for 1 hour for 4 consecutive days, with gentle massaging of the antiperspirant products. Total amount applied: 3.75 mg/cm 2 .
  • the amount of sweat is evaluated by weighing the cellulose squares before and after sweating.
  • Connposition A 6 is prepared with the ingredients described below. The percentage shown is the percentage of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • composition A R Composition A R
  • Composition B 2 is prepared with the ingredients described below. The percentage shown is the percentage of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • compositions A 6 and B 6 according to Example 6 were evaluated on a panel of 22 women, according to the following protocol:
  • composition A 6 and then, 30 minutes later, the composition B 6 are applied with occlusion for 1 hour for 4 consecutive days, with gentle massaging of the antiperspirant products. Total amount applied: 3.75 mg/cm 2 .
  • the amount of sweat is evaluated by weighing the cellulose squares before and after sweating.
  • Composition A 7 is prepared with the ingredients described below. The percentage shown is the percentage of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • Composition B 7 is prepared with the ingredients described below. The percentage shown is the percentage of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition: Composition B 7
  • compositions A 7 and B 7 according to Example 7 were evaluated on a panel of 22 women, according to the following protocol:
  • composition A 7 and then, 30 minutes later, the composition B 7 are applied with occlusion for 1 hour for 4 consecutive days, with gentle massaging of the antiperspirant products. Total amount applied: 3.75 mg/cm 2 .
  • the amount of sweat is evaluated by weighing the cellulose squares before and after sweating.
  • Example 8 Composition A 8 is prepared with the ingredients described below. The percentage shown is the percentage of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • composition A Composition A
  • Composition B 8 is prepared with the ingredients described below. The percentage shown is the percentage of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • compositions A 8 and B 8 according to Example 8 were evaluated on a panel of 22 women, according to the following protocol:
  • composition A 8 and then, 30 minutes later, the composition B 8 are applied with occlusion for 1 hour for 4 consecutive days, with gentle massaging of the antiperspirant products. Total amount applied: 3.75 mg/cm 2 . 24 hours after the last application: iii) The back is washed with water to remove any remaining trace of product; cellulose squares are fixed onto the various areas, and the person is then made to sweat in a sauna for 15 minutes at 80°C.
  • the amount of sweat is evaluated by weighing the cellulose squares before and after sweating.
  • Composition A 9 is prepared with the ingredients described below. The percentage shown is the percentage of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • Composition B 9 Water q.s. for 100 Composition B 9 is prepared with the ingredients described below. The percentage shown is the percentage of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • compositions A 9 and B 9 according to Example 9 were evaluated on a panel of 22 women, according to the following protocol:
  • composition A 9 and then, 30 minutes later, the composition B 9 are applied with occlusion for 1 hour for 4 consecutive days, with gentle massaging of the antiperspirant products. Total amount applied: 3.75 mg/cm 2 .
  • the amount of sweat is evaluated by weighing the cellulose squares before and after sweating.
  • Composition Aio is prepared with the ingredients described below. The percentage shown is the percentage of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition: Composition Am
  • Composition Bio is prepared with the ingredients described below. The percentage shown is the percentage of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition: Composition Bm
  • compositions Ai 0 and Bio according to Example 10 were evaluated on a panel of 22 women, according to the following protocol:
  • composition Ai 0 and then, 30 minutes later, the composition Bio are applied with occlusion for 1 hour for 4 consecutive days, with gentle massaging of the antiperspirant products. Total amount applied: 3.75 mg/cm 2 .

Abstract

La présente invention porte sur un procédé pour le traitement de la transpiration humaine, qui comprend : (i) soit le mélange extemporané d'au moins une composition A et d'au moins une composition B conditionnées séparément et l'application dudit mélange sur la surface de la peau ; (ii) soit l'application sur la surface de la peau, simultanément ou séquentiellement, d'au moins une composition A et d'au moins une composition B conditionnées séparément ; ladite composition A comprenant au moins un halogénure de cation multivalent ; ladite composition B comprenant au moins un sel non azoté d'un anion ; ledit halogénure et ledit sel d'anion formant in situ, sur la peau, par interaction ionique cation/anion, un sel anti-transpirant. La présente invention porte également sur un procédé pour le traitement de la transpiration humaine résultant de la transpiration, qui comprend au moins : (i) soit le mélange extemporané d'au moins une composition A' et d'au moins une composition B' conditionnées séparément et l'application dudit mélange sur la surface de la peau ; (ii) soit l'application sur la surface de la peau, simultanément ou séquentiellement, d'au moins une composition A' et d'au moins une composition B' conditionnées séparément ; ladite composition A' comprenant au moins un sel non halogéné de cation multivalent ; ladite composition B' comprenant au moins un sel d'anion ; ledit sel de cation multivalent et ledit sel d'anion formant in situ, sur la peau, par interaction ionique cation/anion, un sel anti-transpirant.
PCT/EP2012/061876 2011-07-22 2012-06-20 Procédé pour le traitement de la transpiration humaine à l'aide d'un sel de cation multivalent et d'un sel d'anion WO2013013902A2 (fr)

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FR1156657 2011-07-22
FR1156657A FR2978033B1 (fr) 2011-07-22 2011-07-22 Procede de traitement de la transpiration humaine utilisant un sel forme a partir d'un sel non halogene de cation multivalent et d'un sel d'anion
FR1156656A FR2978032B1 (fr) 2011-07-22 2011-07-22 Procede de traitement de la transpiration humaine utilisant un halogenure de cation multivalent et un sel non azote d'anion
FR1156656 2011-07-22
US201161511699P 2011-07-26 2011-07-26
US201161511730P 2011-07-26 2011-07-26
US61/511,730 2011-07-26
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US20140227215A1 (en) * 2011-09-28 2014-08-14 Michael Richard Baker Antiperspirant compositions and method for reducing perspiration
WO2014137350A1 (fr) * 2013-03-08 2014-09-12 Monroe Manus Bernard Sels de citrate utilisables en vue de l'élimination des odeurs
WO2014161792A1 (fr) * 2013-04-03 2014-10-09 Unilever Plc Procédé de fabrication de compositions cosmétiques anhydres
WO2019072831A1 (fr) 2017-10-09 2019-04-18 L'oreal Procédé pour traiter la transpiration humaine à l'aide d'un cation et d'un anion en présence d'un modulateur
US10342749B2 (en) 2014-12-15 2019-07-09 Conopco, Inc. Antiperspirant compositions comprising alums
US10350151B2 (en) 2014-12-26 2019-07-16 Colgate-Palmolive Company Zinc phosphate complex
WO2020187699A1 (fr) 2019-03-18 2020-09-24 Unilever N.V. Composition anti-transpirante comprenant des sels réactifs
WO2020187686A1 (fr) 2019-03-18 2020-09-24 Unilever N.V. Composition antitranspirante comprenant des sels réactifs
US11213466B2 (en) 2014-12-26 2022-01-04 Colgate-Palmolive Company Personal care compositions with zinc phosphate active
FR3117804A1 (fr) * 2020-12-22 2022-06-24 L'oreal Procede de traitement de la transpiration humaine et des odeurs corporelles utilisant de l’oxyde de magnesium et un sel de phosphate
US11690791B2 (en) 2014-12-26 2023-07-04 Colgate-Palmolive Company Zinc phosphate complex

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US20140227215A1 (en) * 2011-09-28 2014-08-14 Michael Richard Baker Antiperspirant compositions and method for reducing perspiration
WO2014137350A1 (fr) * 2013-03-08 2014-09-12 Monroe Manus Bernard Sels de citrate utilisables en vue de l'élimination des odeurs
US11154474B2 (en) 2013-03-08 2021-10-26 Manus B. Monroe Chemical formulations and their use in neutralizing or eliminating odors
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WO2014161792A1 (fr) * 2013-04-03 2014-10-09 Unilever Plc Procédé de fabrication de compositions cosmétiques anhydres
US10342749B2 (en) 2014-12-15 2019-07-09 Conopco, Inc. Antiperspirant compositions comprising alums
US10350151B2 (en) 2014-12-26 2019-07-16 Colgate-Palmolive Company Zinc phosphate complex
US11213466B2 (en) 2014-12-26 2022-01-04 Colgate-Palmolive Company Personal care compositions with zinc phosphate active
US11344486B2 (en) 2014-12-26 2022-05-31 Colgate-Palmolive Company Zinc phosphate complex
US11690791B2 (en) 2014-12-26 2023-07-04 Colgate-Palmolive Company Zinc phosphate complex
WO2019072831A1 (fr) 2017-10-09 2019-04-18 L'oreal Procédé pour traiter la transpiration humaine à l'aide d'un cation et d'un anion en présence d'un modulateur
WO2020187699A1 (fr) 2019-03-18 2020-09-24 Unilever N.V. Composition anti-transpirante comprenant des sels réactifs
WO2020187686A1 (fr) 2019-03-18 2020-09-24 Unilever N.V. Composition antitranspirante comprenant des sels réactifs
FR3117804A1 (fr) * 2020-12-22 2022-06-24 L'oreal Procede de traitement de la transpiration humaine et des odeurs corporelles utilisant de l’oxyde de magnesium et un sel de phosphate
WO2022136507A1 (fr) * 2020-12-22 2022-06-30 L'oreal Procédé de traitement de la transpiration humaine et des odeurs corporelles à l'aide de magnésie et d'un sel de phosphate

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