WO2022149055A1 - Composition antioxydante stabilisée par un filtre uva organique - Google Patents

Composition antioxydante stabilisée par un filtre uva organique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022149055A1
WO2022149055A1 PCT/IB2022/050019 IB2022050019W WO2022149055A1 WO 2022149055 A1 WO2022149055 A1 WO 2022149055A1 IB 2022050019 W IB2022050019 W IB 2022050019W WO 2022149055 A1 WO2022149055 A1 WO 2022149055A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
weight
range
acid
present
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PCT/IB2022/050019
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English (en)
Inventor
Nicholas David Stebbins
Susan Halpern Chirch
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from US17/141,865 external-priority patent/US11547645B2/en
Priority claimed from FR2103167A external-priority patent/FR3121043B1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2022149055A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022149055A1/fr

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a cosmetic composition for keratinous tissue, particularly skin, that includes an antioxidant component that is stabilized using a photoprotective organic UVA filter.
  • Antioxidants including hydroxycinnamate derivates such as ferulic acid, Vitamin C, and other actives protect cells from the damage of oxidative stress by scavenging free radicals and inhibiting oxidation reactions.
  • the topical application of antioxidants and other skin actives is broadly employed in skin care products to prevent skin aging and confer other protective benefits.
  • Antioxidants are known to exhibit chemical properties that are associated with reduced tissue damage.
  • Antioxidants are known to participate in sequestering chemically active species to prevent the formation of free radicals which can contribute to oxidative stress leading to aging of skin.
  • compositions that protect and/or stabilize antioxidants to preserve and sustain their efficacy in protecting keratinous tissue are also prone to the damaging effects of UV radiation and can be rendered less efficacious or potent after UV exposure.
  • the disclosure relates to an organic UVA filter-stabilized antioxidant system and a cosmetic composition comprising the antioxidant system that that demonstrates stabilization from decomposition of the at least one hydroxycinnamate derivative after UV exposure as compared with controls lacking the UVA filter stabilizer.
  • the organic UVA filter-stabilized antioxidant system provides a cosmetic composition that confers preserved and sustained antioxidant efficacy to keratinous tissue.
  • the antioxidant system includes a combination of at least one hydroxycinnamate derivative, ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and an organic, water-soluble UVA filter in a water-based carrier.
  • the organic UVA filter-stabilized antioxidant system includes ferulic acid, ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid in a water-based carrier.
  • the disclosure provides a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • the cosmetic composition demonstrates stabilization of at least 50% and up to about 95% of a hydroxycinnamate derivative after classical urban daily exposure to UV radiation as compared with controls lacking the UVA filter stabilizer. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition demonstrates stabilization after classical urban daily exposure to UV radiation as compared with controls lacking the UVA filter stabilizer from about 50% and up to about 55%. In some embodiments, stabilization is exhibited by preservation of at least 50% of the antioxidant active after classical urban daily exposure to UV radiation. In some particular embodiments, classical urban daily UV exposure is exposure of about 5 J/cm 2 , at a UVA flow of about 0.0037 W/cm 2 for a period of time in a range from about 30 minutes to about 60 minutes.
  • the cosmetic composition is formed by providing the carrier system having a water-phase that comprises water.
  • the carrier system may further comprise one more additional ingredients, each present in the water phase or in another phase, such as an oily phase.
  • the one or more additional ingredients includes one or more of a glycol, a humectant, a preservative, a surfactant, a thickener, an active compound, or a combination thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more of any one of the additional ingredients.
  • the cosmetic composition may also include emulsifiers, emollients, fragrances, pH adjusters, other cosmetically acceptable additives, or a combination thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises one or a combination of additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, laureth-23, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (Pellicier) and sodium hydroxide.
  • the cosmetic composition may be any suitable form, such as, but not limited to, a single phase solution comprising the water phase, a multi-phase solution comprising at least one water phase, an emulsion comprising a water phase, such as, but not limited to, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a silicone-in-water emulsion.
  • the cosmetic composition may be provided in a product form for application to keratinous tissue, such as, but not limited to, a skin care product or a hair care product, and may be a product form such as, but not limited to, a hydroglycolic solution, a micellar water, a cream or lotion, a toner, a cleanser, or a make-up remover.
  • a product form such as, but not limited to, a hydroglycolic solution, a micellar water, a cream or lotion, a toner, a cleanser, or a make-up remover.
  • the cosmetic composition in any of the product forms may be either a leave-on or a rinse-off formulation.
  • the at least one hydroxycinnamate derivative is present in the cosmetic composition in a range from about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition. In some particular embodiments, the at least one hydroxycinnamate derivative is ferulic acid.
  • the composition may further include ascorbic acid is present in the cosmetic composition in a range from about 5% to about 30%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition, the ascorbic acid present in a ratio of water to ascorbic acid in a range from about 3:1 to about 10:1, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the at least one organic, water-soluble UVA filter is present in the cosmetic composition in a range from about 0.4% to about 10%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • the at least one organic, water-soluble UVA filter is terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, (the product sold under the name Mexoryl (TM) SX).
  • the cosmetic composition comprises one or a combination of phytic acid or chlorogenic acid, the phytic acid present in the cosmetic composition in a range from about 0.25% to about 10%, and the chlorogenic acid present in the cosmetic composition in a range from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, each by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises one or a combination of active compounds selected from the group consisting of Vitamin E (e.g. tocopherol), panthenol, hyaluronic acid, carnosine, at least one additional sun filter, at least one hydroxy acid, and combinations thereof.
  • an active compound is selected from the group consisting of alpha, beta or polyhydroxy acids selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, galactose, and combinations thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises one or a combination of active compounds selected from the group consisting of tocopherol, panthenol and hyaluronic acid.
  • the disclosure provides a cosmetic composition comprising phytic acid, chlorogenic acid, or a combination thereof in the antioxidant system.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises both phytic acid and chlorogenic acid in the antioxidant system.
  • the disclosure provides a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • the at least one hydroxycinnamate derivative is present in a range from about 0.2% to about 5%
  • the ascorbic acid is present in a range from about 5% to about 30%
  • the at least one organic water-soluble UVA filter is present in a range from about 0.4% to about 10%
  • phytic acid is present in a range from about 0.25% to about 10%
  • chlorogenic acid is present in a range from about 0.25% to about 10%, or a combination thereof, all amounts by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • the carrier system comprises one or a combination of additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, laureth-23, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (Pellicier) and sodium hydroxide, and one or a combination of active compounds selected from the group consisting of tocopherol, panthenol and hyaluronic acid.
  • the disclosure provides a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • Cosmetically acceptable means a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate.
  • Keratinous substrate and “keratinous tissue” each includes but is not limited to skin, hair, and nails.
  • the disclosure relates to an organic UVA filter-stabilized antioxidant system and a cosmetic composition comprising the antioxidant system that that demonstrates stabilization from decomposition of the at least one hydroxycinnamate derivative after UV exposure as compared with controls lacking the UVA filter stabilizer.
  • the organic UVA filter-stabilized antioxidant system provides a cosmetic composition that confers preserved and sustained antioxidant efficacy to keratinous tissue.
  • the antioxidant system includes a combination of at least one hydroxycinnamate derivative, ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and an organic, water-soluble UVA filter in a water-based carrier.
  • the organic UVA filter-stabilized antioxidant system includes ferulic acid, ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid in a water-based carrier.
  • the water-based carrier is a water phase that may further include one or more other ingredients for providing one of a variety of forms of cosmetic products, the ingredients including but not limited to a glycol, a humectant, a preservative, a surfactant, a thickener, an active compound, or a combination thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition may also include emulsifiers, emollients, fragrances, pH adjusters, other cosmetically acceptable additives, or a combination thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more of any one of the additional ingredients.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one, or more than one glycol, or one, or more than one humectant, and the like. It will be understood that additional ingredients, when present, are present in the carrier system in either a water phase or an oily phase.
  • the cosmetic composition may be any suitable cosmetic composition, such as, but not limited to, a single phase solution comprising the water phase, a multi-phase solution comprising at least one water phase, an emulsion comprising a water phase, such as, but not limited to, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a silicone-in-water emulsion.
  • the cosmetic composition may be provided in a product form for application to keratinous tissue, such as, but not limited to, a skin care product or a hair care product, and may be a product form such as, but not limited to, a hydroglycolic solution, a micellar water, a cream or lotion, a toner, a cleanser, or a make-up remover.
  • a product form such as, but not limited to, a hydroglycolic solution, a micellar water, a cream or lotion, a toner, a cleanser, or a make-up remover.
  • the cosmetic composition in any of the product forms may be either a leave-on or a rinse-off formulation.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure is a single phase solution that comprises one or more solutes dissolved in one or more solvents to form a substantially homogeneous liquid that appears to be substantially clear to the naked eye.
  • the cosmetic composition is a single phase water solution.
  • the cosmetic composition is a hydroglycolic solution that comprises one or a combination of glycols.
  • the inventors have shown the surprising and unexpected effect of the combination of at least one hydroxycinnamate derivative, ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and an organic, water-soluble UVA filter as a stabilizer of antioxidant stability and activity after clinically significant UV exposure.
  • the cosmetic composition demonstrates stabilization of at least 50% and up to about 95% of a hydroxycinnamate derivative after classical urban daily exposure to UV radiation as compared with controls lacking the UVA filter stabilizer.
  • the cosmetic composition demonstrates stabilization after classical urban daily exposure to UV radiation as compared with controls lacking the UVA filter stabilizer from about 50% and up to about 55%.
  • stabilization is exhibited by preservation of at least 50% of the antioxidant active after classical urban daily exposure to UV radiation.
  • UV exposure means exposure of about 5 J/cm 2 , at a UVA flow of about 0.0037 W/cm 2 for a period of time in a range from about 30 minutes to about 60 minutes.
  • the stabilization of the hydroxycinnamate derivative may be in the range from about at least 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, to about 95 percent and in some particular embodiments may be in the range from about at least 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, to about 55 percent, including increments and ranges there between.
  • classical urban daily exposure to UV radiation is exposure within a range from about 2 J/cm 2 to 20 J/cm 2 at a UVA flow of from about 0.0020 W/cm 2 to 0.0080 W/cm 2 for a period of time in a range from about 30 minutes to about 60 minutes, or from about 10 to about 30 minutes, or from about 10 to about 360 minutes, and in some particular embodiments classical urban daily exposure, based on indoor exposure is about 5 J/cm 2 , at a UVA flow of about 0.0037 W/cm 2 for a period of time in a range from about 30 minutes to about 60 minutes. It will be understood that more generally the total UV dallying dose in NY, NY in the month of April averages about 38 J/cm 2 .
  • embodiments of the cosmetic composition include an organic UVA filter-stabilized antioxidant system comprising a combination of a combination of at least one hydroxycinnamate derivative, ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and an organic, water-soluble UVA filter in a water-based carrier.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises each of includes ferulic acid, ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid in a water-based carrier.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises a hydroxycinnamate derivative, for example, ferulic acid.
  • a cinnamic acid or derivative thereof includes ferulic acid, p-coumaric acid, caffeic acid, sinapinic acid, chlorogenic acids, caftaric acid, chicoric acid, coutaric acid, rosmarinic acid, derivatives thereof, and combinations thereof.
  • Equivalent derivatives thereof include those cinnamic acid derivatives having substitutions on the hydroxyl groups of the aromatic ring such as short chain aliphatic groups (one to six carbon atoms) or long chain aliphatic groups (seven to twenty-four carbon atoms) to form an ether, or such aliphatic groups substituted with alkyl, alkoxy, hydroxyl, amino, or amido, for example, to form a substituted ether.
  • Equivalent derivatives thereof further include those cinnamic acid derivatives having modifications of the methoxy group(s) of the aromatic ring to short chain aliphatic groups (two to six carbon atoms) or to long chain aliphatic groups (seven to twenty-four carbon atoms) to form a longer chain ether, or such aliphatic groups substituted with alkyl, alkoxy, hydroxyl, amino, or amido, for example, to form a substituted long chain ether.
  • the 3-carboxy group of a cinnamic acid derivative may also be converted to esters or amides having aliphatic groups of up to 24 carbons or an aromatic group, for example.
  • Cis and trans isomers of the cinnamic acid derivatives are included herein since the cis isomer is readily converted to the trans isomer.
  • Salts of the cinnamic acid derivatives are included herein.
  • the cinnamic acid derivative is a triethanolamine salt.
  • Caffeic acid also known as 3-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-2-propenoic acid, is found in many fruits, vegetables, seasonings and beverages consumed by humans. Caffeic acid is present in such goods in conjugated forms such as chlorogenic acid.
  • Para-coumaric acid also known as 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-propenoic acid or p-hydroxycinnamic acid
  • Trans-ferulic acid also known as 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyp- henyl)-2-propenoic acid or 4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid
  • Sinapinic acid also known as 3,5-dimethoxy4-hydroxycinnamic acid, is from black mustard seeds.
  • Caffeic acid, para-coumaric acid, trans-ferulic acid and sinapinic acid are commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • Cinnamic acid derivatives including, but not limited to ferulic acid, and triethanolamine salts may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from about 0.1% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 3%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 1.0%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises ascorbic acid, or Vitamin C.
  • pH of the cosmetic composition is in a range that includes about 3.5 to about 7.0, and is in some embodiments, greater than 4.0.
  • a pH close to 3.5 or 4.0 ensures that greater than about 82% of the ascorbic acid remains in a protonated, uncharged form as disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,140,043, Aug. 18, 1992, the entire disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein.
  • Ascorbic acid may be provided by the addition of any reducing analog of ascorbic acid, such as D-isoascorbic acid or by the addition of other small reducing compounds such as, but not limited to, glutathione, L-cysteamine, and the like. Such forms would be expected to provide an equivalent composition to that claimed and are within the scope of the invention.
  • Ascorbic acid and its derivatives may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from about 1% to about 30%, and in some embodiments, from about 5% to about 25%, and in some embodiments, from about 10% to about 20%, and in some embodiments, from about 10% to about 15%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one or a combination of phytic acid and chlorogenic acid.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises phytic acid.
  • Phytic acid is also known as phytate and is a six-fold dihydrogenphosphate ester of inositol (specifically, of the myo isomer), also called inositol hexakisphosphate (IP6) or inositol polyphosphate.
  • IP6 inositol hexakisphosphate
  • IP6 inositol hexakisphosphate
  • Phytic acid is found naturally in plant seeds and is a storage form of phosphorus.
  • the cosmetic composition comprise chlorogenic acid.
  • Chlorogenic acid is also known as chlorogenate or 3-caffeoylquinate and belongs to the class of organic compounds known as quinic acids and derivatives. Chlorogenic acid is the ester of caffeic acid (a hydroxycinnamic acid related to ferulic acid, as described herein above) and ( ⁇ )-quinic acid.
  • Phytic acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from about 0.5% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 4%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the phytic acid raw material is provided at a dilution of 50% such that the exemplified percent, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic compositions, in the cosmetic composition are multiplied by 0.5 to obtain the final percent, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, of phytic acid.
  • Chlorogenic acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 1.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 1.1% to about 1.2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • each of the components of hydroxycinnamate derivatives, ascorbic acid, and phytic and chlorogenic acid when present are present in a cosmetic composition according to the disclosure, and each of the individual components in the ranges as described herein above, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 to about 30 percent by weight, including increments and ranges there between.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises at least one UVA filter stabilizer.
  • the UVA filter stabilizer is a water soluble organic UVA filter.
  • the sunscreen composition comprises one or a combination of organic UV filters. The organic UV filters is active in the UV-A region.
  • the organic UV filter is selected from camphor compounds, in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark MEXORYL (TM) as “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the trademark “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, "Mexoryl SO” by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, "Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.
  • camphor compounds in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark MEXORYL (TM) as "Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4-
  • Each of the at least one UVA filter stabilizer is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from about 0.4% to about 10%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 8%, and in some embodiments, from about 3% to about 5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • a UVA filter stabilizer is present in the cosmetic composition, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, to about 10 percent, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the cosmetic composition is formed by providing a carrier system having a water-phase that comprises water.
  • water is present in the cosmetic composition in a range from about 10% to about 95%, and in some embodiments, from about 25% to about 80%, and in some embodiments, from about 30% to about 65%, and in some embodiments, from about 35% to about 50%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • a range from about 10% to about 95%, and in some embodiments, from about 25% to about 80%, and in some embodiments, from about 30% to about 65%, and in some embodiments, from about 35% to about 50%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • water is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 40, 41, 42, 43, 44,45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, to about 75 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • One of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
  • the water used may be chosen from, for example, sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene.
  • the water phase may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting
  • the pH of the cosmetic composition is not limited but is generally between 3.0 and 4.0, and in some embodiments, is one of between 3 and 3.5.
  • the pH can be adjusted to the desired value by addition of a base (organic or inorganic) to the cosmetic composition, for example ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or alternatively by addition of an inorganic or organic acid, advantageously a carboxylic acid, such as, for example, citric acid.
  • a base organic or inorganic
  • a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine
  • an inorganic or organic acid advantageously a carboxylic acid, such as, for example, citric acid.
  • pH is a measurement of the hydrogen ion concentration in water which is determined
  • the cosmetic composition also comprises one more additional ingredients, such as, but not limited to, a glycol, a humectant, a preservative, a surfactant, a thickener, an active compound, or a combination thereof.
  • additional ingredients such as, but not limited to, a glycol, a humectant, a preservative, a surfactant, a thickener, an active compound, or a combination thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more of any one of the additional ingredients.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one, or more than one glycol, or one, or more than one humectant, and the like. It will be understood that additional ingredients, when present, are present in the carrier system in either a water phase or an oily phase.
  • the cosmetic composition may be any suitable cosmetic composition, such as, but not limited to, a single phase solution comprising the water phase, a multi-phase solution comprising at least one water phase, an emulsion comprising a water phase, such as, but not limited to, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a silicone-in-water emulsion.
  • the cosmetic composition may be provided in a product form for application to keratinous tissue, such as, but not limited to, a skin care product or a hair care product, and may be a product form such as, but not limited to, a hydroglycolic solution, a micellar water, a leave-on cream or lotion, a toner, a cleanser, or a make-up remover.
  • keratinous tissue such as, but not limited to, a skin care product or a hair care product
  • a product form such as, but not limited to, a hydroglycolic solution, a micellar water, a leave-on cream or lotion, a toner, a cleanser, or a make-up remover.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises one or a combination of active compounds selected from the group consisting of Vitamin E, carnosine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, at least one sun filter, at least one hydroxy acid, and combinations thereof.
  • an active compound is selected from the group consisting of alpha, beta or polyhydroxy acids selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, galactose, and combinations thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition further includes one or more additives selected from emulsifiers, emollients, fragrances, pH adjusters, other cosmetically acceptable additives, or a combination thereof, and is free or essentially free of powders and solid particles, including but not limited to, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, tin oxide, iron oxides, mica, silica, ferric ferrocyanide, alumina, silicates, synthetic fluorphlogopite, polyethylene, polypropylene, poly methyl methacrylate, talc, perlites, hectorites, bentonite, kaolin, pumice, boron nitride, and combinations thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition excludes propylene glycol or butylene glycol.
  • one or more humectants may be present in the cosmetic composition.
  • the humectant may comprise one or more of polyols, including, for example, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, glycerol, glycols, such as, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, polyethylene glycol, monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycol ethers, such as, monopropylene, dipropylene and tripropylene glycol alkyl(C1-C4)ethers, squalane, triacetin, sugars, such as, glucose, xylitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose pentaerythritol, inositol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactic acid, lithium chloride, acetamide MEA, sodium lactate, urea, dicyanamide, hylene glycols
  • glycols when present, may be present in the cosmetic composition alone or with at least one other glycol, each glycol present in an amount that is in a range from about 0.1% to about 30%, or from about 5% to about 25%, or from about 10% to about 15%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of glycol is less than about 30%, for example, the total is about 29.5%, or about 29%.
  • some glycols when present alone in the cosmetic composition, are present in an amount that is at least about 8%, or at least about 8.5%, or at least about 9%, or at least about 9.5%, or at least about 10%, or at least about 10.5%.
  • each of the glycols is present in a cosmetic composition according to the disclosure, each alone and/or in combinations as described in the paragraphs set forth herein above from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3 ,0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.5, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29 to less than about 30 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the composition includes a glycol humectant comprising one or a combination of hexylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.
  • the amount of humectant present in the cosmetic composition can range from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 1% to about 8%, or from about 1% to about 5%, or from about 2% to about 3%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • the amount of humectant present in the cosmetic composition can range from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 1% to about 8%, or from about 1% to about 5%, or from about 2% to about 3%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • any one of or a combination of humectant, when present, may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, is from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, to about 10 percent, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • various non-limiting embodiments of the cosmetic composition may optionally include at least one surfactant.
  • various non-limiting embodiments of the cosmetic composition that include an oil, for example, but not limited to, a Vitamin E component, such as tocopherol may optionally include at least one surfactant.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises no oil.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises no surfactant.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises at least one oil, for example, tocopherol, with at least one surfactant.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises at least one oil with more than one surfactant.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises at least one oil without any surfactants, wherein the total amount of oil present does not inhibit forming the cosmetic composition as a clear, single phase solution.
  • the at least one surfactant may be a nonionic, cationic, anionic, or a zwitterionic surfactant.
  • the at least one surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of laureth-23, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaureate, polyoxyethylated octyl phenol, 3-((3-cholamidopropyl) dimethylammonio)-1 propane sulfonate, cholate, deoxycholate, sodium dodecylsulfate, TWEEN-80, and combinations thereof.
  • the at least one surfactant may exclude esters.
  • the at least one surfactant may be present in the cosmetic composition in a range from about 1% to about 5%, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the at least one surfactant when present, comprises one or a combination of laureth-23 and sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises two or more surfactants, for example, a combination of laureth-23 and sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine.
  • the at least one surfactant when present, may be present from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, and in some embodiments, from about 3% to about 6%, and in some embodiments, from about 3% to about 4.5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • laureth-23 may be present from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition, and in some embodiments, from about 3% to about 4.5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaureate may be present from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises more than one surfactant.
  • each of the at least one surfactant when present, may be present in a cosmetic composition according to the disclosure from about 1, 2, 3, 4, to about 5 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • one or more preservatives and/or antimicrobials may be present in the cosmetic composition.
  • Any preservative commonly used in cosmetic formulations is an acceptable preservative for the cosmetic composition herein, such as phenoxyethanol, members from the paraben family such as the methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or isobutyl parabens, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetic acid, triclosan, benzyl alcohol, chlorophenesin, or salicylic acid, for example.
  • suitable solvents for optional additives in particular, suitable solvents for antimicrobials and preservatives, members from the paraben family may be used as a preservative.
  • the preservative may comprise one or more of preservatives selected from the group consisting of organic acids, parabens, formaldehyde donors, phenol derivatives, quaternary ammoniums, alcohols, isothiazolinones, and combinations thereof.
  • Preservatives having antibacterial activity are optionally present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
  • organic acid preservatives include, but are not limited to, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, benzoic acid and dehydroacetic acid, sorbic acid, and combinations thereof.
  • a preferred organic acid preservative system includes a mixture of sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate.
  • paraben preservatives include, but are not limited to, alkyl para-hydroxybenzoates, wherein the alkyl radical has from 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms and for example, from 1 to 4 carbon atoms e.g., methyl para-hydroxybenzoate (methylparaben), ethyl para-hydroxybenzoate (ethylparaben), propyl para-hydroxybenzoate (propylparaben), butyl para-hydroxybenzoate (butylparaben) and isobutyl para-hydroxybenzoate (isobutylparaben).
  • alkyl para-hydroxybenzoates wherein the alkyl radical has from 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms and for example, from 1 to 4 carbon atoms e.g., methyl para-hydroxybenzoate (methylparaben), ethyl para-hydroxybenzoate (ethylparaben), propyl para-hydroxybenzoate (propylparaben), but
  • formaldehyde donor preservatives include, but are not limited to, 1,3-Dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMDM hydantoin), imidazolidinyl urea, gluteraldehyde, and combinations thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium preservatives include, but are not limited to, benzalkonium chloride, methene ammonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, and combinations thereof.
  • alcohol preservatives include, but are not limited to, ethanol, benzyl alcohol, dichlorobenzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and combinations thereof.
  • isothiazolone preservatives include, but are not limited to, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, and combinations thereof.
  • preservatives include, but are not limited to, phenoxyethanol, chloroacetamide, triclosan and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, pyridine derivatives (e.g., pyrithione and zinc pyrithione), chlorphenesin, phenyl mercuric salts, and other known preservative systems.
  • the at least one preservatives when present, comprises phenoxyethanol.
  • the preservative may include one or more preservatives, the one or combination present at a concentration, by weight of about 0.001% to about 5%, or alternatively about 0.05% to about 2.5% or alternatively about 0.1% to about 2.0%, based upon weight of the composition.
  • any one of or a combination of preservatives, when present, may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, is from about 0.001, 0.002, 0.003 ,0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03 ,0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 3, 4, to about 5 percent, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the composition may include one or more polymeric thickeners.
  • the one or more thickener may be selected from one or more of natural gums and synthetic polymers, for example, the thickener may be selected from the group consisting of starches (corn, rice, tapioca, potato), gums (xanthan carrageenan, gellan, sclerotium, tarabiotech fermentation).
  • the thickener may be selected from acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl guar, ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, and polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.
  • the polymeric thickener may be one of carbomer, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, microcrystalline cellulose (and) cellulose gum, xanthan gum, sodium carboxymethyl starch, sclerotium gum (and) xanthan gum, xanthan gum (and) ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum (50/50), dehydroxanthan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sclerotium gum (and) xanthan gum (75/25), sclerotium gum, xanthan gum (and) sclerotium gum (and) Lecithin (and) pullulan, or combinations thereof.
  • the composition may comprise two or more polymeric thickeners.
  • the amount of each of the at least one polymeric thickener, when present, may be present in the cosmetic composition in a range of from about 0.01% to about 2%, or from about 0.01% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.3% to about 1.2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of polymeric thickener in the cosmetic composition when present, is present from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.02% to about 2%, or from about 0.03% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
  • any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight based on the weight of the composition.
  • one or more polymeric thickener when present, is present by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5 to about 5.0 percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • embodiments of the cosmetic composition may include one or more additional compounds selected from active compounds, in particular keratinous tissue actives, such as, but not limited to, skin actives.
  • active compounds may be selected from the group consisting of: vitamins, for example, Vitamin E, carnosine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, at least one sun filter, at least one hydroxy acid, and combinations thereof.
  • an active compound is selected from the group consisting of alpha, beta or polyhydroxy acids selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, galactose, and combinations thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more of any one of the optional active compounds.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one, or more than one hydroxy acid, one, or more than one vitamin, and the like.
  • Vitamin E may be selected from the group consisting of alpha-tocopherol, beta-tocopherol, delta-tocopherol, gamma-tocopherol, and alpha-tocotrienol, beta-tocotrienol, delta-tocotrienol, gamma-tocotrienol, and derivatives thereof.
  • Salts or derivatives of tocopherols include pharmaceutically acceptable compounds such as acetate, sulfate, succinate, nicotinate, palmitate, allophanate, phosphate, quinone, or halogenated derivatives, esters, or stereoisomers, for example.
  • the invention encompasses the use of Vitamin E derivatives in which substitutions, additions, and other alterations have been made in the 6-chromanol ring and/or side chain, with the proviso that the derivatives maintain the antioxidant activity of Vitamin E.
  • Additional tocopherols can be constructed by conjugation to the ring structure or side chain of various other moieties, such as those containing oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus.
  • Tocopherol derivatives can also be made by modifying the length of the side chain from that found in tocopherols such as alpha-, beta-, delta- and gamma-tocopherol. Tocopherols can also vary in stereochemistry and saturation of bonds in the ring structure and side chain.
  • Additional tocopherol derivatives can be made by conjugation of sugars or other moieties to the side chain or ring structure.
  • Tocopherols include without limitation stereoisomers (e.g., + and - stereoisomers of alpha-tocopherol; (+/-) indicates a racemic mixture) or mixtures of structurally distinct tocopherols (e.g., alpha-plus gamma-tocopherol).
  • Tocopherols may be obtained from Roche, Nutley, N.J., for example.
  • additional actives can also include at least one hydroxy acid selected from alpha, beta or polyhydroxy acids.
  • a hydroxy acid may be selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, galactose, and combinations thereof.
  • additional actives can also include one or more of the antioxidants selected from the group consisting of mangiferin, baicalin, resveratrol, tannic acid, polyphenols, amino acids and derivatives thereof, imidazoles, carnosine derivatives, carotenoids, carotenes (such as ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, and lycopene), vitamin A, co-enzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, glutathione, plant extracts (such as rosemary extract, olive leaf extracts), green tea extracts, and combinations thereof.
  • the antioxidants selected from the group consisting of mangiferin, baicalin, resveratrol, tannic acid, polyphenols, amino acids and derivatives thereof, imidazoles, carnosine derivatives, carotenoids, carotenes (such as ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, and lycopene), vitamin A, co-enzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, glutathione
  • the cosmetic composition includes a combination of active compounds present in the cosmetic composition comprising a hydroxy acid, tocopherol, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, or a combination thereof.
  • each of the optional active compounds is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from about 0.1% to about 30%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 30%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 15%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Vitamin E and its derivatives including, but not limited to tocopherol, may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from about 0.5% to about 2%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2.0%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • One or more of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, and carnosine may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from about 0.1% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 3%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 1.0%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Hyaluronic acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from about 0.01% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.05% to about 0.07%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Panthenol may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from about 0.1% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.2% to about 0.4%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.2% to about 0.25%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • a hydroxy acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from about 0.25% to about 10%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 8%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.25% to about 0.5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Carnosine may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount from about 0.10% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.20% to about 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.20% to about 0.25%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • optional active compounds are present in a cosmetic composition according to the disclosure, and each of the individual components in the ranges as described herein above, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 to about 30 percent by weight, including increments and ranges there between.
  • compositions can also comprise at least one additive used in the cosmetics field which does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention, such as, emulsifiers, emollients, fragrances, pH adjusters (citric acid, sodium chloride; neutralizing or pH-adjusting agents (e.g., triethanolamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide), and combinations thereof), other cosmetically acceptable additives, such as but not limited to, pearlescent agents, silica, and coloring materials; essential oils; fruit extracts, for example, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder.
  • emulsifiers emulsifiers, emollients, fragrances
  • pH adjusters citric acid, sodium chloride; neutralizing or pH-adjusting agents (e.g., triethanolamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide), and combinations thereof
  • other cosmetically acceptable additives such as but not limited to, pearlescent agents, silica, and coloring materials; essential oils; fruit extract
  • the amount of one or more additives, alone or in combination, present in the cosmetic composition can be present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure in a range from about 0.001% to about 20%, by weight, or from about 0.005% to about 0.01%, or from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, or from about 0.15% to about 5%, or from about 0.40% to about 4%, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • any one or a combination of additives may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, each one or the combination present from about 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • optional additives are given as examples, it will be appreciated that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used that are suitable. It will be appreciated by a skilled artisan that any optional additives are present only to the extent and in amounts that do not materially adversely affect the basic and novel characteristic(s) of the claimed disclosure. Thus, in some embodiments that include optional additives, such optional additives will not materially adversely affect the solubility of the skin actives of the cosmetic composition. And in some embodiments that include optional additives, such optional additives will not materially adversely affect the cosmetic composition forming a single phase solution.
  • the cosmetic composition may include optional additives, for example one or more of phenoxyethanol, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium citrate, sodium chloride, hydroxyacetophenone sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, citric acid, caprylyl glycol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, or combinations thereof.
  • phenoxyethanol is present as a preservative in the cosmetic composition in a range from about 0.5% to about 2%, and in some embodiments in a range from about 1% to about 2%.
  • the amount of one or more actives and additives, alone or in combination, when present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure can be present in a range from about 0.001% to about 20%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.05% to about 0.01%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.15% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.40% to about 4%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • One of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
  • any one or a combination of actives and additives may be present, each one or the combination present from about 0.001, 0.005, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be used for the production of cosmetic preparations, or dermatological preparations, more particularly topical treatment preparations, that may be formulated as single-phase or a multi-phase solution, a cosmetic serum, or aerosol, for example.
  • Topical application to a surface may be a surface such as skin, for example.
  • stable means and includes: Physical stability, wherein, over a predetermined time, the actives remain solubilized in solution and do not crystallize out, such phase stability evidenced by the absence of visually discernable crystal formation or by direct chemical measurement of solubilized active, or both; and Phase stability, wherein the cosmetic composition remains as a single phase, clear solution, that does not separate into more than one layer, or become cloudy (which could be evidence of chemical breakdown of one or more actives), such physical stability evidenced by visual inspection.
  • compositions that demonstrates physical stability and does not become cloudy, as evidenced by visual inspection are presumed to be chemically stable, such that the actives remain soluble and do not decompose or chemically react to form non-active compounds in a manner that would diminish or eliminate their capability of acting according to their intended function at that time of application.
  • an inventive composition remains chemically stable (wherein actives do not precipitate, decompose or react as evidenced by one or more of crystal formation, measured loss of solubility, and/or the cosmetic composition becomes cloudy), at temperatures in the range from about 5 oC to about 45 oC and at a pH that is in the range from about 3.0 to about 3.5, all over a time period up to at least about 4 days or more, or up to at least about 8 days, or up to at least about 10 days, or for a period of more than 4 days, or for a period of more than 8 days, or for a period of more than 10 days.
  • compositions according to the disclosure are made using the following procedures: water, solvents, and actives other than ascorbic acid and sodium hyaluronate are stirred together until dissolved to a clear solution.
  • Sodium hyaluronate is sprinkled on the surface of the solution without stirring and the mixture allowed to form a gel without stirring for about 3 hours. After the three-hour period, the gel is stirred to obtain a uniform viscous solution.
  • the solution is degassed under vacuum and saturated with an inert gas such as argon or nitrogen. This degassing and saturating procedure was carried out three times.
  • Ascorbic acid is added with stirring, the solution is again degassed under vacuum and saturated with an inert gas, and then stirred for 30 to 45 minutes to yield a clear solution which is then degassed and saturated with an inert gas.
  • a further embodiment of the present invention is a product made by a process described herein.
  • Compositions having increased a hydrophobic component such as tocopherol are made by mixing water, actives other than ascorbic acid, tocopherol and sodium hyaluronate until a clear solution is formed.
  • Sodium hyaluronate is sprinkled on the surface of the solution and allowed to dissolve for about three hours to form a first solution.
  • a mixture that includes solvents, surfactant, an optional additive preservative, for example, phenoxyethanol, and the hydrophobic component is gently heated with stirring to 60 oC. to form a second solution.
  • This second solution is then added to the first solution with stirring until the combined solution is clear. Cooling of the second solution is not required.
  • the combined solution is degassed under vacuum with an inert gas such as saturated argon or nitrogen. The degassing and saturating is carried out three times. Ascorbic acid is added with stirring. The final solution is degassed and saturated with the inert gas and stirred to form a clear solution.
  • the present disclosure also provides a method of treating a condition of a subject that results from radical damage comprising administering a composition of the present invention to the subject.
  • Treating means prophylactic and/or therapeutic treatment of a subject.
  • prophylactic treatment is a treatment administered to a subject who does not have symptoms of radical-induced damage or has early signs of such damage or anticipates being exposed to situations having risk of radical-induced damage.
  • “Therapeutic” treatment is a treatment administered to a subject who has signs of radical-induced damage.
  • Such a condition may be photo-aging, or diseases or disorders of the skin such as, for example, skin cancer, skin irritation or inflammation, dermatitis, allergy, psoriasis, acne, eczema, rosacea, or radiation exposure.
  • compositions were evaluated for photostability of ascorbic acid and ferulic acid after an exposure of about 5 J/cm 2 , at a UVA flow of about 0.0037 W/cm 2 for a period of time in a range from about 30 minutes to about 60 minutes, representing classical urban daily UV exposure, mainly indoor.
  • the objective of the analysis is to study the effect of the radiation on antioxidant stability with and without a UV filter stabilizer (terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid) in the presence of the surfactant sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (Pellicier). Results are shown in Table 2, below.
  • the results reflect the residual fraction (as a percentage of the original amount) of the antioxidants, ferulic acid and ascorbic acid, obtained after UV exposure with a standard deviation (RDS) of + / - 6% in absolute value, related to the technical implementation.
  • RDS standard deviation
  • UV filter stabilizer confers improved ferulic acid chemical stability when exposed to classical urban daily exposure to UV radiation as compared with controls lacking the UVA filter stabilizer.
  • stabilization of ferulic acid by the UVA filter after classical urban daily exposure to UV radiation is from about 50% and up to about 55%. More generally, stabilization is exhibited by preservation of at least 50% of the antioxidant active after classical urban daily exposure to UV radiation.
  • At least one means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • free and “devoid” indicates that no reliably measurable excluded material is present in the cosmetic composition, typically 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • essentially free means that, while it prefers that no excluded material is present in the cosmetic composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the cosmetic composition of the invention, provided that these amounts do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the cosmetic composition.
  • essentially free means that excluded material can be present in the cosmetic composition at an amount of less than about 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • weight or amount as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient refers to the amount of the raw material comprising the ingredient, wherein the raw material may be described herein to comprise less than and up to 100% activity of the ingredient. Therefore, percent, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, of an active in a composition is represented as the amount of raw material containing the active that is used, and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active, wherein the final percentage of the active is dependent on the percent, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, of active in the raw material.
  • percent, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition may be used interchangeably and mean percent by weight, based on the total weight of a composition, article or material, except as may be specified with respect to, for example, a phase, or a system that is a component of a composition, article or material. All ranges and amounts given herein are intended to include subranges and amounts using any disclosed point as an end point. Thus, a range of “1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%,” is intended to encompass ranges of “1% to 8%,” “1% to 5%,” “2% to 10%,” and so on.

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  • Dermatology (AREA)
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Abstract

L'invention concerne un système antioxydant stabilisé par un filtre UVA organique qui démontre une stabilisation après exposition aux UV par comparaison avec des témoins dépourvus du stabilisant à filtre UVA. Le système antioxydant organique stabilisé par un filtre UVA fournit une composition cosmétique qui confère une efficacité antioxydante préservée et durable aux tissus kératineux. Le système antioxydant comprend une combinaison d'au moins un dérivé d'hydroxycinnamate et d'un filtre UVA organique soluble dans l'eau dans un support à base d'eau.
PCT/IB2022/050019 2021-01-05 2022-01-03 Composition antioxydante stabilisée par un filtre uva organique WO2022149055A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US17/141,865 2021-01-05
US17/141,865 US11547645B2 (en) 2021-01-05 2021-01-05 Organic UVA filter-stabilized antioxidant composition
FRFR2103167 2021-03-29
FR2103167A FR3121043B1 (fr) 2021-03-29 2021-03-29 Composition antioxydante stabilisee par un filtre uva organique

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WO2022149055A1 true WO2022149055A1 (fr) 2022-07-14

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5140043A (en) 1989-04-17 1992-08-18 Duke University Stable ascorbic acid compositions
FR2932679A1 (fr) * 2008-06-24 2009-12-25 Oreal Utilisation de l'acide ferulique ou ses derives pour ameliorer l'etat de surface d'une peau alteree.
FR3034987A1 (fr) * 2015-04-15 2016-10-21 Oreal Composition a base de trans-resveratrol ou d'un derive de trans-resveratrol
US20190298638A1 (en) * 2018-03-29 2019-10-03 L'oreal Methods for boosting uva photo-protection using antioxidants

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5140043A (en) 1989-04-17 1992-08-18 Duke University Stable ascorbic acid compositions
FR2932679A1 (fr) * 2008-06-24 2009-12-25 Oreal Utilisation de l'acide ferulique ou ses derives pour ameliorer l'etat de surface d'une peau alteree.
FR3034987A1 (fr) * 2015-04-15 2016-10-21 Oreal Composition a base de trans-resveratrol ou d'un derive de trans-resveratrol
US20190298638A1 (en) * 2018-03-29 2019-10-03 L'oreal Methods for boosting uva photo-protection using antioxidants

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 20 July 2015 (2015-07-20), ANONYMOUS: "Clarifying Carection Cream", XP055874273, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/3326113/ Database accession no. 3326113 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 29 April 2015 (2015-04-29), ANONYMOUS: "Skin Tone Correcting Daily Moisturiser UV SPF 30", XP055874271, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/3060959/ Database accession no. 3060959 *

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