WO2022106072A1 - Textile stone washing process - Google Patents

Textile stone washing process Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022106072A1
WO2022106072A1 PCT/EP2021/066056 EP2021066056W WO2022106072A1 WO 2022106072 A1 WO2022106072 A1 WO 2022106072A1 EP 2021066056 W EP2021066056 W EP 2021066056W WO 2022106072 A1 WO2022106072 A1 WO 2022106072A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
garments
composition according
solid composition
water
stone
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PCT/EP2021/066056
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Stefano PUTZU
Aida CARCELEN SERVAIS
Antonio MARTINEZ CANO
Xavier JORDANA REYES
Albert SCHOENENBERGER ARNAIZ
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Aplicacion Y Suministros Textiles, S.A.U.
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Application filed by Aplicacion Y Suministros Textiles, S.A.U. filed Critical Aplicacion Y Suministros Textiles, S.A.U.
Publication of WO2022106072A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022106072A1/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/15Locally discharging the dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0093Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material
    • D06B11/0096Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material to get a faded look
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D06L4/40Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using enzymes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/13Fugitive dyeing or stripping dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/13Fugitive dyeing or stripping dyes
    • D06P5/137Fugitive dyeing or stripping dyes with other compounds
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/15Locally discharging the dyes
    • D06P5/158Locally discharging the dyes with other compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of garment treatments, including dyed and denim garments, in particular to a stone washing process carried out in the presence of low amount of water.
  • Stone washing gives dyed garments a "used” or “vintage” look. This is due to the varying degree of abrasion of the garment.
  • the most usual method of providing a "stone-washed" look (localized abrasion of the colour) in dyed garments, in particular denim fabric or jeans, is by washing the denim or jeans made from such fabric in the presence of pumice stones to provide the desired localized lightening of the colour of the fabric.
  • Round and oval shaped pumice stones with a rough surface work as an abrasive in the wash cycle. Variations in shape, composition, hardness, and porosity result in different wash effects on dyed garments.
  • these stones scrape dye particles from the surface of the garment yarn which shows a faded, worn and shiny effect on the garment. From ring dyeing of the fabric and the strong abrasion during stone washing, the discoloration is more apparent but less uniform.
  • Stone wash makes jean garments more flexible for a comfortable fit.
  • the stone must be of the correct hardness, shape and size.
  • large, hard stones are suitable and also last longer.
  • smaller, softer stones are suitable for lightweight denim fabrics.
  • Using pumice for this purpose has the disadvantage that pumice particles have to be washed from the fabric or clothing subsequently to treatment, and that the pumice stones and particles cause a significant wear of the machines used in the process. Also, handling large amounts of stones may be a problem. Additionally, stone particles and sand wreak havoc on the effluent.
  • Other approaches to providing a "stone-washed" appearance to garments, in particular denim fabric or jeans have therefore been suggested.
  • WO-A-90/07569 discloses a process for heterogeneously washing out the colour of articles based on dyed cotton in an aqueous medium, wherein the said articles are brought into contact with an aqueous composition based on acid cellulases at a concentration of between 0.01 and 5 filter paper units per gram of dry fabric, with a ph of less than 6 and preferably between 4 and 5 and at a temperature ensuring rapid heterogeneous washing out of colour, and in a preferred embodiment, said articles are also brought into contact with pumice stones or the aqueous composition also comprises amylases.
  • WO-A-90/02790 discloses a process of introducing into the surface of dyed cellulosic fabrics, localized area of variation and colour density, which method comprises contacting the fabric with an aqueous composition consisting essentially of: (a) a major proportion of water; (b) at least 25 wt.% of a cellulase enzyme composition and at least 1 ,500 CMC units of cellulase enzyme per litre of aqueous composition; and (c) a buffer that can maintain the pH of the aqueous solution at about the cellulase enzyme optimum pH; wherein the fabric is contacted with the aqueous composition at a ratio of about 2-3 ml of aqueous solution per gram of dyed cellulosic fabric, and wherein the variation in colour density is substantially the same as that produced by convention pumice stone processing.
  • WO-A-90/15180 discloses a solid composition for removing the dye from an at least partially non-synthetic fabric to produce a faded look thereto, comprised of: a castable powder; a bleaching agent; and water; wherein said castable powder is plaster, gypsum cement, or portland cement.
  • a common problem associated with the treatment of such cottoncontaining fabrics with a cellulase solution is that the treated fabrics exhibit significant strength loss as compared to the untreated fabric. Strength loss arises because the cellulase hydrolyses cellulose (8-1,4-glucan linkages) which, in turn, can result in a breakdown of a portion of the cotton polymer. As more and more cotton polymers are disrupted, the tensile strength of the fabric is reduced.
  • WO-A-92/06183 discloses the use of specific fungal cellulases for treating cotton-containing fabrics to reduce the damage to the fibres.
  • WO-A-98/10136 discloses a process for creating a structural effect on textile fabrics, which comprises treating an aqueous liquor containing dyed or undyed fibres, yarns, fabrics or textiles with ground glass having a specific particle size, and optionally in combination with cellulases and/or zeolites.
  • WO-A-95/35363 discloses a method of treating dyed cellulosic fabric, in unsewn form or in the form of a garment or other article composed of sewn fabric, to produce a stonewashed effect in said fabric comprising contacting said fabric with a water-based composition having an acidic pH and including (a) at least one cellulase enzyme having optimum cellulose degrading activity in an acidic medium and (b) a dye redeposition inhibiting additive selected from the group consisting of natural and synthetic inorganic silicates, polyalkylene oxide polymers, acrylic polymers, and natural, synthetic and semisynthetic polysaccharides.
  • WO-A-95/09225 discloses a process for the treatment of dyed fabric, the process comprising contacting, in an aqueous medium, the fabric with a cellulolytic enzyme and heat expanded perlite in an amount effective for providing localised variation in the colour density of the surface of dyed fabric.
  • EP-A-0574830 discloses a process for removing colour from denim garments using foam glass bodies as abrasive material, using a recyclable material instead of pumice, wherein at the end of the washing process, the pumice pieces are so small that they are carried away with the washing water through the perforated plates of the washing drum.
  • DE 19643036 proposes the use of silicon dioxide materials such as sand, glass diatomaceous earth in substitution of pumice in a stone washing method involving also the use of cellulase.
  • US5213581 discloses a stone washing treatment denim fabric by means of an aqueous composition comprising cellulase, water, buffers and solid inorganic ingredients selected from carbonates, phosphates, tripolyphosphates, silicates, sulfates or mixtures thereof.
  • Granular abrasive materials to be used in stone washing of denim garments in substitution of pumice have been disclosed also in EP 2142698 (silicone polymer and an aluminosilicate zeolite, in W020030672 (carbon silicon optionally combined with clay) and in CN1762910 (ceramic material consisting of magnesium clays, kaolin, feldspar and dolomite).
  • the object of the present invention is a solid composition for a textile stone washing process.
  • Another aspect of the invention is a stone washing process for garments.
  • Another aspect of the invention is the use of said composition for the treatment of garments.
  • Figure Figure 1a shows the biopolishing effect resulting from the treatment according to the process disclosed in the Comparative Example 1
  • Figure 1b shows the biopolishing effect resulting from treatment according to the process of the invention (Example 1).
  • Figure 2 shows an embodiment of a mordanting process wherein A represents the addition of mordanting agent; B represents the addition of caustic soda, and C represents the rinsing and neutralizing step.
  • Figure 3 shows an embodiment of a dyeing process, wherein A represents the addition of the dyestuff, and B the addition of sodium sulfate.
  • the object of the present invention is a solid composition for a textile stone washing process, which comprises a neutral cellulase, a filler , at least one nonionic surfactant, an anti-redeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer.
  • the composition consists essentially of a neutral cellulase, a filler, at least one non-ionic surfactant, an anti-redeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer.
  • the composition consists of a neutral cellulase, nepheline syenite, at least one non-ionic surfactant, an anti-redeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer.
  • the composition consists of a neutral cellulase, silica flour, at least one non-ionic surfactant, an anti-redeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer.
  • the solid composition of the invention comprises: a neutral cellulase, a filler, at least one non-ionic surfactant, an anti-redeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer.
  • the neutral cellulase shows an enzymatic activity of at least 16000 u/g, wherein 1 unit of CMCase equals to the amount of enzyme, which hydrolyses sodium carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC-Na) to get 1 pg of reducing sugar (expressed as glucose) in 1 minute at 50°C and a pH value of 6.0.
  • CMC-Na sodium carboxymethyl cellulose
  • Neutral cellulases are commercially available from companies such as Novozymes, Sigma-Aldrich, or Infinite Enzymes.
  • the content of the neutral cellulase in the composition of the invention is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 20 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 15 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 10 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 0.8 wt.% and 3 wt.%, and yet more preferably between 0.9 wt.% and 1.5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
  • Fillers according to the invention include tectosilicates, calcium carbonates and calcium magnesium carbonates, china clay or kaolin, micas, talc, titanium dioxide, wollastonite and/or mixtures thereof.
  • Tectosilicates are preferred, particularly silicon dioxide minerals and minerals of the feldspar group.
  • a preferred silicon dioxide mineral is silica flour.
  • Preferred minerals of the feldspar group are ‘quartz free’ or ‘crystalline silica free’ feldspars, particularly preferred are albite (from the plagioclass feldspar group), microcline (from the alkali feldspar group) and nepheline (from the feldspathoid family).
  • the most preferred tectosilicate is nepheline syenite, a magmatic rock consisting of albite, microcline and nepheline.
  • Silica flour is the result of a milling quartz up to a specific particle size.
  • the filler is silica flour or nepheline syenite, wherein 80 wt.%, preferably 85 wt.% and more preferably 90 wt.% of the particles shows a particle size >20 pm, preferably having a D50 comprised between about 40 pm and about 150 pm; in a more preferred embodiment, D50 is about 135 pm, and in another preferred embodiment, D50 is about 45 pm.
  • at least about 90% of the particles show a particle size of at least about 100 pm.
  • at least about 50% of the particles show a particle size of at least about 40 pm. Particle size being determined by sieving according to AFNOR X11-507, optionally according to ISO 565 R20 series.
  • silica flour or quartz free feldspar such as nepheline syenite, shows D50 about 135 pm and at least about 90% of the particles show a particle size of at least about 100 pm, wherein particle size being determined by sieving according to AFNOR X11-507, optionally according to ISO 565 R20 series.
  • Silica flour comprises usually more than 95 wt.% of silicon dioxide, being the rest (below 5 wt.%) metal oxides, such as AI2O3, TiO2, F2O3, CaO, MgO, K2O and Na2O. Density (pycnometer) of silica flour is comprised between 2 and 3 g/cm 3 .
  • Silica flour is commercially available through companies, such as, for example, Industrial Mineral Services, Redox, or Sibelco.
  • Nepheline syenite is a magmatic rock consisting of albite (sodium aluminum silicate), microcline (potassium aluminum silicate) and nepheline (sodium potassium aluminum silicate).
  • albite sodium aluminum silicate
  • microcline potassium aluminum silicate
  • nepheline sodium potassium aluminum silicate
  • Nepheline syenite is a mineral that does not coexist with quartz, in other words, is a crystalline silica free mineral and therefore is not classified nor requires labelling due to any presence of fine crystalline silica or respirable crystalline silica (RSC).
  • nepheline syenite comprises usually more than 40 wt.% of metal oxides different from silicon dioxide, such as AI2O3, Na2 ⁇ D, K2O, CaO, SrO, BaO and MgO.
  • metal oxides different from silicon dioxide such as AI2O3, Na2 ⁇ D, K2O, CaO, SrO, BaO and MgO.
  • Nepheline syenite is commercially available through companies, such as, for example, AGSCO Corporation, BariteWorld, Gruppo Minerali Maffei SpA or Sibelco Nordic AS.
  • the content of filler in the composition of the invention is comprised between 10 wt.% and 95 wt.%, preferably between 20 wt.% and 92 wt.%, more preferably between 30 wt.% and 90 wt.%, more preferably between 40 wt.% and 89 wt.%, more preferably between 60 wt.% and 88 wt.%, more preferably between 80 wt.% and 87 wt.%, and yet more preferably between 83 wt.% and 86 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.
  • non-ionic surfactants are polyalkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyalkoxylated alkylphenols, polyal koxylated fatty acids, fatty acid alkanolamides, copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, polyalkoxylated polyols, esters of fatty acids with polyalkoxylated polyols, amine oxides, and amidoamine oxides.
  • the HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance defines the degree to which a surfactant is hydrophilic or lipophilic. As disclosed in X. Domingo, A guide to the surfactants world, Proa, Barcelona, 1995, in 1949, W.C. Griffin defined the HLB number in such a way that every surfactant has one HLB number. Surfactants with low HLB are more hydrophobic than hydrophilic and are scarcely soluble in water and generally do not foam. Conversely, surfactants with high HLB values are hydrophilic, very soluble in water and good foamers.
  • Non-ionic surfactant to be used in the composition of the invention comprises at least one of ethoxylated C12-C18 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 20 - 100 EG (20 to 100 mols of ethylene oxide); Cie-C fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 20 - 100 EO; ethoxylated castor oil with 20 - 200 EO; ethoxylated C12-C18 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 3 - 15 EO; ethoxylated C13-C15 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 3 - 15 EO; or ethoxylated Cs-C , linear or branched, with 3 - 15 EO.
  • the composition of the invention comprises a combination of a non-ionic surfactant having a high HLB, namely >10, and a non-ionic surfactant having a low HLB, namely ⁇ 10.
  • the composition of the invention comprises a combination of an ethoxylated C12-C18, preferably Cie-C fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with more than 20 EO, preferably more than 30 EO, more preferably more than 40 EO, more preferably more than 50 EO, more preferably more than 60 EO, more preferably more than 70 EO, and yet more preferably about 80 EO, and an ethoxylated C12-C18, preferably C13-C15, fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with less than 20 EO, preferably, less than 15 EO, more preferably less than 10 EO, and yet more preferably with 6-8 EO.
  • the non-ionic surfactant comprises a combination of Cie-Cis linear fatty alcohol with 50 -100 EO, preferably 70 - 90 EO, more preferably about 80 EO, and C13-C15 linear or branched fatty alcohol with 4 - 10 EO, preferably 5 - 9 EO, more preferably 6 - 8 EO, more preferably about 7 EO.
  • Non-ionic surfactants are commercially available through companies, such as, for example, BASF, Kao, or Huntsmann.
  • the content of non-ionic surfactant in the composition of the invention is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 40 wt.%, preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 30 wt.%, preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 20 wt.%, preferably between 1 wt.% and 15 wt.%, more preferably between 2 wt.% and 10 wt.%, and more preferably between 3 wt.% and 5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention comprises between 1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 2 wt.% and 7 wt.%, more preferably between 3 wt.% and 5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition, of a non-ionic surfactant having a high HLB, namely >10, and between 0.1 wt.% and 5 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 2 wt.%, more preferably between 0.3 wt.% and 1 wt.%, and more preferably about 0.5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition, of a non-ionic surfactant having a low HLB, namely ⁇ 10.
  • An anti-redeposition agent in the composition of the invention prevents redeposition of the removed dyestuff onto the surface of the fabric.
  • the anti-redeposition agent comprises at least one of PEG-polyester, polyvinylpyrrolidone, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyethylene glycol, or polymeric polycarboxylate.
  • PEG-polyester Preferably a PEG-polyester is used.
  • PEG-polyesters are defined by CAS Nr. 9016-88-0.
  • Polymeric polycarboxylate materials can be prepared by polymerizing or copolymerizing suitable unsaturated monomers, preferably in their acid form.
  • Unsaturated monomeric acids that can be polymerized to form suitable polymeric polycarboxylates include acrylic acid, maleic acid (or maleic anhydride), fumaric acid, itaconic acid, aconitic acid, mesaconic acid, citraconic acid and methylenemalonic acid.
  • Particularly suitable polymeric polycarboxylates can be derived from acrylic acid.
  • acrylic acid-based polymers which are useful herein are the water-soluble salts of polymerized acrylic acid, for example, the alkali metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
  • polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight range of from about 500 to about 100,000, preferably from about 1,000 to about 50,000, more preferably from about 1,500 to about 10,000.
  • PEG-polyesters are disclosed for example in US4116885. Usually PEG- polyesters have an average molecular weight of 5,000 to 200,000, preferably 10,000 to 50,000. Suitable polyester soil release polymers include the Repel-o-tex® series of polymers such as Repel-o-tex® SF2 (Rhodia) and/or the Texcare® series of polymers such as Texcare® SRA300 (Clariant).
  • Anti-redeposition agents are commercially available, for example, from companies such as BASF, Sidley Chemical, or Sigma-Aldrich.
  • the content of the anti-redeposition agent in the composition of the invention is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 8 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 6 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 1 wt.% and 4 wt.%, yet more preferably between 1.5 wt.% and 3 wt.%, and more preferably about 2 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention comprises a dispersing agent.
  • a dispersing agent is added to a suspension of solid or liquid particles in a liquid to improve the separation of the particles and to prevent their settling or clumping.
  • the dispersing agent comprises at least one of naphtalenesulfonic acid, polymer with formaldehyde, sodium salt (CAS Nr. 9084-06-4) or lignosulfonic acid sodium salt (CAS Nr. 8061-51-6), preferably the dispersing agent is naphtalenesulfonic acid, polymer with formaldehyde, sodium salt.
  • Dispersing agents are commercially available through companies, such as, for example, Preparados Quimicos de Navarra, or Wegochem.
  • the content of the dispersing agent in the composition of the invention comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 8 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 6 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 1 wt.% and 4 wt.%, yet more preferably between 1.5 wt.% and 3 wt.%, and more preferably about 2 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
  • pH buffer preferably between 0.1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 8 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 6 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 1 wt.% and 4 wt.%, yet more preferably between 1.5 wt.% and 3
  • composition of the invention comprises a pH buffer to maintain the pH value comprised between 5.5 and 7.5.
  • the pH buffer is selected, for example, from monosodium phosphate, monopotassium phosphate.
  • the content of the pH buffer in the composition of the invention is comprised between 1 wt.% and 20 wt.%, preferably, between 2 wt.% to 15 wt.%, more preferably between 3 wt.% and 12 wt.%, more preferably between 4 wt.% and 10 wt.%, more preferably between 5 wt.% and 8 wt.%, and more preferably about 7 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
  • One aspect of the invention is a stone washing process for garments, selected from dyed garments and denim garments, which comprises the following steps: a) pre-treatment process, b) removing the water leading to wet garments, c) adding the composition of the invention, to the wet garments, d) stone washing of the wet garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet garments, wherein the pre-treatment process for denim garments comprises desizing of denim garments in a water bath, and wherein the pre-treatment process for dyed garments comprises dyeing of garments in a water bath.
  • the stone washing process is for denim garments, and comprises the following steps: a) desizing of denim garments in a water bath, b) removing the water leading to wet denim garments, c) adding the composition of the invention, to the wet denim garments, d) stone washing of the wet denim garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet denim garments.
  • the stone washing process is for dyed garments, and comprises the following steps: a) dyeing of garments in a water bath, b) removing the water leading to wet garments, c) adding the composition of the invention, to the wet garments, d) stone washing of the wet garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet garments.
  • the desizing process may be carried out using standard procedures well-known to the skilled person in the art, such as disclosed in Ch. Tomasino, Chemistry & Technology of fabric Preparation & Finishing, North Carolina State University, 1992.
  • it takes place usually in a water bath at a temperature comprised between 40°C and 80°C, preferably between 50°C and 60°C, for a period of time comprised between 5 and 30 minutes, preferably between 10 and 20 minutes, using a desizing composition comprising as main components an a- amylase enzyme and at least one non-ionic surfactant.
  • the bath ratio is usually 1 kg denim garments: 10 I of water, and the dosage of the desizing composition is usually about 1 g/l.
  • the dyeing process may be carried out using standard procedures well-known to the skilled person in the art, such as disclosed in N. N. Mahapatra. Textile Dyes, Woodhead Publishing India, New Delhi, 2016.
  • the dyeing process usually comprises the treatment of the garment with a mordant composition before the treatment with a dyeing composition to reduce the wash out or fade away of the dye.
  • the mordant composition is added usually to the bath at room temperature.
  • the treatment with a mordant composition usually takes place in a water bath at a temperature comprised between 30°C and 60°C, preferably between 40°C and 55°C, for a period of time comprised between 30 and 60 minutes, preferably between 40 and 55 minutes.
  • the rate to heat the bath from room temperature is about 2°C/min.
  • sodium hydroxide is added during the mordant process.
  • the bath is cooled to room temperature after the treatment time, usually at a rate of about 5°C/min, garments are rinsed with water and adjusted at neutral pH.
  • the liquor ratio typically used in the mordanting step is comprised between 10:1 and 20:1.
  • the dyeing process comprises the treatment of the garment with a dyeing composition and usually takes place in a water bath at a temperature comprised between 50°C and 90°C, preferably between 60°C and 80°C, for a period of time comprised between 30 and 90 minutes, preferably between 50 and 80 minutes. After the dyeing process, the water bath is cooled to a temperature about 40°C.
  • the liquor ratio typically used in the dyeing step is comprised between 10:1 and 20:1.
  • Different kind of dyes may be used, such as acid dyes, direct dyes, reactive dyes, or pigment dispersions.
  • the water is removed leading to wet garments, dyed or denim garments, usually containing between 0.2 and 2 kg of water I kg of garment, preferably between 0.5 and 1.5 kg of water I kg of garment, and more preferably between 0.75 and 1 kg of water / kg of garment.
  • the water is removed by emptying it through the drain usually in a period of 2 to 10 minutes.
  • composition of the invention is added to the wet garments, dyed or denim garments, usually in 2 or 3 times, in order to warrant a homogenous distribution. After step b) up to the end of the process, water is not added and heating is not applied.
  • garments are rinsed with fresh water to remove chemicals and silica flour.
  • the stone washing of garments may be carried out in an industrial washing machine, which are commercially available.
  • the composition used in the stone washing process is able to provide garments, in particular dyed and denim garments, with a “used” look with the minimization of effluents, without the use of additional wetting agents and/or dispersing agents both in the desizing process and in the stone washing process, without the need of heating garments during the stone washing process, without the compulsory need of using pumice stone, and maintaining the tear strength of the fabric.
  • the final look obtained with said process is apparently comparable to the final look obtained using a standard process of stone washing.
  • Another aspect of the invention is the use of said composition for the treatment of garments.
  • the garments are dyed garments.
  • the garments are denim garments.
  • the use is for conferring a used look to the garments.
  • a solid composition for a textile stone washing process characterized in that it comprises a neutral cellulase, a filler, at least one non-ionic surfactant, an antiredeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer, the filler preferably selected from tectosilicates, calcium carbonates and calcium magnesium carbonates, china clay or kaolin, micas, talc, titanium dioxide, wollastonite and or mixtures thereof.
  • the solid composition according to embodiment 1 characterized in that the content of the neutral cellulase is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 20 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 15 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 10 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 0.8 wt.% and 3 wt.%, and yet more preferably between 0.9 wt.% and 1.5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from polyalkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyalkoxylated alkylphenols, polyalkoxylated fatty acids, fatty acid alkanolamides, copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, polyalkoxylated polyols, esters of fatty acids with polyalkoxylated polyols, amine oxides, and amidoamine oxides.
  • non-ionic surfactant comprises at least one of ethoxylated C12-C18 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 20 - 100 EO (20 to 100 mols of ethylene oxide); Cw- C18 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 20 - 100 EO; ethoxylated castor oil with 20 - 200 EO; ethoxylated C12-C18 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 3 - 15 EO; ethoxylated C13-C15 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 3 - 15 EO; or ethoxylated Cs- C10, linear or branched, with 3 - 15 EO.
  • the content of non-ionic surfactant is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 40 wt.%, preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 30 wt.%, preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 20 wt.%, preferably between 1 wt.% and 15 wt.%, more preferably between 2 wt.% and 10 wt.%, and more preferably between 3 wt
  • the solid composition according to embodiment 11 characterized in that it comprises between 1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 2 wt.% and 7 wt.%, more preferably between 3 wt.% and 5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition, of a non-ionic surfactant having a high HLB, namely >10, and between 0.1 wt.% and 5 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 2 wt.%, more preferably between 0.3 wt.% and 1 wt.%, and more preferably about 0.5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition, of a non-ionic surfactant having a low HLB, namely ⁇ 10.
  • the anti-redeposition agent comprises at least one of PEG-polyester, polyvinylpyrrolidone, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyethylene glycol, or polymeric polycarboxylate.
  • the content of the anti-redeposition agent is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 8 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 6 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 1 wt.% and 4 wt.%, yet more preferably between 1.5 wt.% and 3 wt.%, and more preferably about 2 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
  • the dispersing agent comprises at least one of naphtalenesulfonic acid, polymer with formaldehyde, sodium salt or lignosulfonic acid sodium salt.
  • the dispersing agent is naphtalenesulfonic acid, polymer with formaldehyde, sodium salt.
  • the content of the dispersing agent is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 8 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 6 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 1 wt.% and 4 wt.%, yet more preferably between 1.5 wt.% and 3 wt.%, and more preferably about 2 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
  • pH buffer is selected from monosodium phosphate and monopotassium phosphate.
  • the content of the pH buffer is comprised between 1 wt.% and 20 wt.%, preferably, between 2 wt.% to 15 wt.%, more preferably between 3 wt.% and 12 wt.%, more preferably between 4 wt.% and 10 wt.%, more preferably between 5 wt.% and 8 wt.%, and more preferably about 7 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
  • a stone washing process for garments selected from dyed garments and denim garments, which comprises the following steps: a) pre-treatment process, b) removing the water leading to wet garments, c) adding the composition of anyone of embodiments 1 to 20 to the wet garments, d) stone washing of the wet garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet garments, wherein the pre-treatment process for denim garments comprises desizing of denim garments in a water bath, and wherein the pre-treatment process for dyed garments comprises dyeing of garments in a water bath.
  • step b) The process according to embodiment 21 , characterized in that the water is removed in step b) leading to wet garments, containing between 0.2 and 2 kg of water I kg of garment, preferably between 0.5 and 1 .5 kg of water I kg of garment, and more preferably between 0.75 and 1 kg of water I kg of garment.
  • a stone washing process for denim garments which comprises the following steps: a) desizing of denim garments in a water bath, b) removing the water leading to wet denim garments, c) adding the composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 20, to the wet denim garments, d) stone washing of the wet denim garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet denim garments.
  • a stone washing process for dyed garments which comprises the following steps: a) dyeing of garments in a water bath, b) removing the water leading to wet garments, c) adding the composition of the invention, to the wet garments, d) stone washing of the wet garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet garments.
  • the dyeing process comprises the treatment of the garment with a mordant composition before the treatment with a dyeing composition.
  • the dyeing process comprises the treatment of the garment with a dyeing composition in a water bath at a temperature comprised between 50°C and 90°C, preferably between 60°C and 80°C, for a period of time comprised between 20 and 60 minutes, preferably between 30 and 50 minutes.
  • 31. The use of the composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 20 for the treatment of garments.
  • a batch of 200 garments (about 100 kg) were introduced into an industrial washing machine with a load capacity of 100 Kg and approximately 1000 litres of water were added.
  • 1 Kg (1 g/l) of a desizing agent comprising a combination of amylase enzyme and dispersing/wetting surfactant were added.
  • the bath was heated to 50-60°C, and kept for 10-20 minutes at such temperature.
  • the machine was emptied while running for 2-5 minutes for removing the excess of water from the garments.
  • the solid product comprising cellulase, abrasive agent (silicon dioxide), monosodium phosphate, non-ionic surfactant, antiredeposition polymer, and dispersing agent, was added in 2-3 times to guarantee its homogeneity. Without any additional water or heating process, the time reguired to reach the necessary degree of abrasion according to the garment model was about 20 to 30 minutes.
  • Comparative Example 1 Prior art stone washing process of denim garments A batch of 200 garments were placed in an industrial washing machine with a load capacity of 100 Kg and approximately 1000 litres of water were added.
  • the industrial washing machine was refilled with 500 litres of water (1/5 bath ratio), 45 kg of pumice stone, 1 Kg of dispersant product and 1 Kg of cellulase enzyme were added.
  • the bath was heated to 40°C and maintained the treatment until the required standard look of the garments was reached.
  • the redeposition of the Indigo dye in the pockets was objectively assessed by comparative reading the reflectance in the UV-visible range (380-780 nanometers) with a DATACOLOR 550 spectrophotometer, taking as a reference the pocket of an untreated garment:
  • the degree of abrasion was measured objectively using a spectrophotometer with the same characteristics as exposed above.
  • the untreated garment was the reference and the same area of seam of the trousers of each of the tests was measured comparatively. It was also subjectively assessed by a panel of 6 experienced people who evaluate the results with a score of 1 to 5, with 1 being the least scorched and 5 being the most contrasted.
  • FIG. 1a shows the result of the treatment according to the process disclosed in the Comparative Example 1
  • Figure 1b shows the results of the treatment according to the process of the invention (Example 1).
  • the process according to the invention provides denim garments with improved appearance and touch.
  • Example 1 It was observed less back staining effect (i.e. , less reflectance between 380-780 nm) in Example 1 according to the process of the invention in comparison with the Comparative Example 1 according to a standard process.
  • Example 3 Stone washing process of dyed garments
  • a batch of 200 garments were placed in an industrial washing machine with a load capacity of 100 Kg and approximately 1000 litres of water were added.
  • the garments were processed with a standard mordant process as shown in Figure 2.
  • Mordant composition was added to the bath at room temperature (A). After 5 minutes, the temperature of the water bath was increased to about 50° C at a rate of 2°C/min. About 15 minutes after reaching said temperature, 2.5 ml of sodium hydroxide solution (50%) were added to the bath (B). After about 20 minutes, the bath was cooled to room temperature at a rate of 5°C/min. Garments were rinsed with water and neutralized with acetic acid (C).
  • the dyeing process was carried out adding 1000 litres of water to the garments, which were processed according to a standard dyeing process as shown in Figure 3.
  • a direct dyestuff was added at room temperature (A), and after about 5 minutes, temperature was increased to about 80°C at a rate of 2°C/min. About 10 minutes after reaching said temperature, 5-15 g/l of sodium sulfate were added to the bath (B). After about 25 minutes, the bath was cooled to a temperature of about 40°C at a rate of 5°C/min.
  • the solid product comprising cellulase, abrasive agent (silicon dioxide), monosodium phosphate, non-ionic surfactant, antiredeposition polymer, and dispersing agent, was added in 2-3 times to guarantee its homogeneity. Without any additional water or heating process, the time reguired to reach the necessary degree of abrasion according to the garment model was about 20 to 30 minutes.
  • a batch of 200 garments were placed in an industrial washing machine with a load capacity of 100 Kg and approximately 1000 litres of water were added.
  • the garments were processed first with a standard mordant process and second with a standard dyeing process as described in Example 3.
  • the degree of abrasion was assessed by a panel of 6 experienced people who evaluate the results with a score of 1 to 5, with 1 being the least scorched and 5 being the most contrasted.
  • a batch of 200 garments (about 100 kg) were introduced into an industrial washing machine with a load capacity of 100 Kg and approximately 1000 litres of water were added.
  • 1 Kg (1 g/l) of an amylase enzyme and 1 Kg (1 g/l) of a dispersing agent I wetting surfactant were added.
  • the bath was heated to 50-60°C and kept for 10-20 minutes at such temperature.
  • the machine was emptied while running for 2-5 minutes for removing the excess of water from the garments.
  • a cleaning process was carried out by adding 1000 litres of water and 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a detergent. Afterwards a rinse was performed by adding 1000 litres of water and after that the machine was emptied.
  • the process ended with a softwash consisting in adding 1000 litres of water, 0.3 kg (0.3 g/l) of citric acid and 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a silicone microemulsion, heating to 40°C at 4°C/min, keeping for 10-20 minutes at such temperature and finally emptying the machine and draining the garments.
  • a batch of 200 garments (about 100 kg) were introduced into an industrial washing machine with a load capacity of 100 Kg and approximately 1000 litres of water were added.
  • 1 Kg (1 g/l) of an amylase enzyme and 1 Kg (1 g/l) of a dispersing agent I wetting surfactant were added.
  • the bath was heated to 50-60°C and kept for 10-20 minutes at such temperature. After the desizing treatment, the machine was rinsed with 1000 litres of water and emptied.
  • a cleaning step was carried out by adding 1000 litres of water and 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a detergent. Afterwards a rinse was performed by adding 1000 litres of water and after that the machine was emptied.
  • a new stone wash step was carried out by adding 500 litres of water, 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a neutral cellulase and 0.5 kg (1 g/l) of a dispersing agent I wetting surfactant. After heating to 45°C at 4°C/min, the temperature was kept for 20 to 30 minutes.
  • a cleaning step was carried out by adding 1000 litres of water and 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a detergent. Afterwards a rinse was performed by adding 1000 litres of water and after that the machine was emptied.
  • a cleaning process was carried out by adding 1000 litres of water and 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a detergent. Afterwards a rinse was performed by adding 1000 litres of water and after that the machine was emptied.
  • the process ended with a softwash consisting in adding 1000 litres of water, 0.3 kg (0.3 g/l) of citric acid and 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a silicone microemulsion, heating to 40°C at 4°C/min, keeping for 10-20 minutes at such temperature and finally emptying the machine and draining the garments.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to is a solid composition for a textile stone washing process. It also relates to a stone washing process using said composition. It also relates to the use of said composition for the treatment of garments.

Description

Figure imgf000002_0001
“TEXTILE STONE WASHING PROCESS”
Technical Field
The present invention relates to the field of garment treatments, including dyed and denim garments, in particular to a stone washing process carried out in the presence of low amount of water.
Background art
Stone washing gives dyed garments a "used" or "vintage" look. This is due to the varying degree of abrasion of the garment.
Different methods have been disclosed to introduce variations in colour density into garments, in particular dyed and denim garments.
The most usual method of providing a "stone-washed" look (localized abrasion of the colour) in dyed garments, in particular denim fabric or jeans, is by washing the denim or jeans made from such fabric in the presence of pumice stones to provide the desired localized lightening of the colour of the fabric. Round and oval shaped pumice stones with a rough surface work as an abrasive in the wash cycle. Variations in shape, composition, hardness, and porosity result in different wash effects on dyed garments. During washing, these stones scrape dye particles from the surface of the garment yarn which shows a faded, worn and shiny effect on the garment. From ring dyeing of the fabric and the strong abrasion during stone washing, the discoloration is more apparent but less uniform. Stone wash makes jean garments more flexible for a comfortable fit. To obtain the desired washing effect, the stone must be of the correct hardness, shape and size. For example, for thick denim fabrics, large, hard stones are suitable and also last longer. Similarly, smaller, softer stones are suitable for lightweight denim fabrics. Using pumice for this purpose has the disadvantage that pumice particles have to be washed from the fabric or clothing subsequently to treatment, and that the pumice stones and particles cause a significant wear of the machines used in the process. Also, handling large amounts of stones may be a problem. Additionally, stone particles and sand wreak havoc on the effluent. Other approaches to providing a "stone-washed" appearance to garments, in particular denim fabric or jeans, have therefore been suggested. For instance, enzymes, in particular cellulases, have been suggested for this purpose, either alone (or together with a smaller amount of pumice than required in the traditional process. The main attraction is to reduce or eliminate the need for stones or to reduce the time required to obtain the desired abrasion effect. For these reasons, the use of cellulase was promoted with the promise of removing stone as an abrasive agent to achieve the "stone washed" appearance. However, due to increased time and other considerations, the current trend is to use combinations of stone and cellulase to achieve the worn and faded look in garments.
Different technical approaches have been disclosed.
For example, WO-A-90/07569 discloses a process for heterogeneously washing out the colour of articles based on dyed cotton in an aqueous medium, wherein the said articles are brought into contact with an aqueous composition based on acid cellulases at a concentration of between 0.01 and 5 filter paper units per gram of dry fabric, with a ph of less than 6 and preferably between 4 and 5 and at a temperature ensuring rapid heterogeneous washing out of colour, and in a preferred embodiment, said articles are also brought into contact with pumice stones or the aqueous composition also comprises amylases.
WO-A-90/02790 discloses a process of introducing into the surface of dyed cellulosic fabrics, localized area of variation and colour density, which method comprises contacting the fabric with an aqueous composition consisting essentially of: (a) a major proportion of water; (b) at least 25 wt.% of a cellulase enzyme composition and at least 1 ,500 CMC units of cellulase enzyme per litre of aqueous composition; and (c) a buffer that can maintain the pH of the aqueous solution at about the cellulase enzyme optimum pH; wherein the fabric is contacted with the aqueous composition at a ratio of about 2-3 ml of aqueous solution per gram of dyed cellulosic fabric, and wherein the variation in colour density is substantially the same as that produced by convention pumice stone processing.
WO-A-90/15180 discloses a solid composition for removing the dye from an at least partially non-synthetic fabric to produce a faded look thereto, comprised of: a castable powder; a bleaching agent; and water; wherein said castable powder is plaster, gypsum cement, or portland cement.
A common problem associated with the treatment of such cottoncontaining fabrics with a cellulase solution is that the treated fabrics exhibit significant strength loss as compared to the untreated fabric. Strength loss arises because the cellulase hydrolyses cellulose (8-1,4-glucan linkages) which, in turn, can result in a breakdown of a portion of the cotton polymer. As more and more cotton polymers are disrupted, the tensile strength of the fabric is reduced. WO-A-92/06183 discloses the use of specific fungal cellulases for treating cotton-containing fabrics to reduce the damage to the fibres.
WO-A-98/10136 discloses a process for creating a structural effect on textile fabrics, which comprises treating an aqueous liquor containing dyed or undyed fibres, yarns, fabrics or textiles with ground glass having a specific particle size, and optionally in combination with cellulases and/or zeolites.
WO-A-95/35363 discloses a method of treating dyed cellulosic fabric, in unsewn form or in the form of a garment or other article composed of sewn fabric, to produce a stonewashed effect in said fabric comprising contacting said fabric with a water-based composition having an acidic pH and including (a) at least one cellulase enzyme having optimum cellulose degrading activity in an acidic medium and (b) a dye redeposition inhibiting additive selected from the group consisting of natural and synthetic inorganic silicates, polyalkylene oxide polymers, acrylic polymers, and natural, synthetic and semisynthetic polysaccharides.
WO-A-95/09225 discloses a process for the treatment of dyed fabric, the process comprising contacting, in an aqueous medium, the fabric with a cellulolytic enzyme and heat expanded perlite in an amount effective for providing localised variation in the colour density of the surface of dyed fabric.
EP-A-0574830 discloses a process for removing colour from denim garments using foam glass bodies as abrasive material, using a recyclable material instead of pumice, wherein at the end of the washing process, the pumice pieces are so small that they are carried away with the washing water through the perforated plates of the washing drum. DE 19643036 proposes the use of silicon dioxide materials such as sand, glass diatomaceous earth in substitution of pumice in a stone washing method involving also the use of cellulase.
US5213581 discloses a stone washing treatment denim fabric by means of an aqueous composition comprising cellulase, water, buffers and solid inorganic ingredients selected from carbonates, phosphates, tripolyphosphates, silicates, sulfates or mixtures thereof.
Granular abrasive materials to be used in stone washing of denim garments in substitution of pumice have been disclosed also in EP 2142698 (silicone polymer and an aluminosilicate zeolite, in W020030672 (carbon silicon optionally combined with clay) and in CN1762910 (ceramic material consisting of magnesium clays, kaolin, feldspar and dolomite).
The processes disclosed in the prior art need large amounts of water to perform correctly the stone wash process. With the growing awareness and concern about environmental issues, such as the large amounts of effluent produced and the high consumption of water and energy, the wet processes related to the treatment of garments are considered unfriendly to the environment. To address environmental concerns, dry finishing techniques such as plasma and laser treatments have been introduced as an alternative to conventional wet processing.
Despite the various proposals available in the state of the art, there is still a need to have new processes for stone wash treatments, which take care of environmental challenges, maintaining the high-quality requirements of the market.
Object of the invention
The object of the present invention is a solid composition for a textile stone washing process.
Another aspect of the invention is a stone washing process for garments.
Another aspect of the invention is the use of said composition for the treatment of garments.
Figure Figure 1a shows the biopolishing effect resulting from the treatment according to the process disclosed in the Comparative Example 1, and Figure 1b shows the biopolishing effect resulting from treatment according to the process of the invention (Example 1).
Figure 2 shows an embodiment of a mordanting process wherein A represents the addition of mordanting agent; B represents the addition of caustic soda, and C represents the rinsing and neutralizing step.
Figure 3 shows an embodiment of a dyeing process, wherein A represents the addition of the dyestuff, and B the addition of sodium sulfate.
Detailed description of the invention
The object of the present invention is a solid composition for a textile stone washing process, which comprises a neutral cellulase, a filler , at least one nonionic surfactant, an anti-redeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition consists essentially of a neutral cellulase, a filler, at least one non-ionic surfactant, an anti-redeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer.
In another preferred embodiment, the composition consists of a neutral cellulase, nepheline syenite, at least one non-ionic surfactant, an anti-redeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer.
In another preferred embodiment, the composition consists of a neutral cellulase, silica flour, at least one non-ionic surfactant, an anti-redeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer.
The authors of the present invention have developed a solid composition for a textile stone washing process, which is able to provide garments, in particular dyed and denim garments, with a “used” look with the minimization of effluents, without the use of additional wetting agents and/or dispersing agents both in the desizing process and in the stone washing process, without the need of heating garments during the stone washing process, without the compulsory need of using pumice stone, and maintaining the tear strength of the fabric. In the present description, as well as in the claims, the singular forms "a", "an" and "the" include the plural reference unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. The ranges defined by the preposition the terms "between ... and ..." or by the terms “from ...to...” include also the two ends thereof. The term "about" refers to a deviation of plus/minus 10 %, preferably plus/minus 5 %. The percentages are expressed in % by weight, unless stated the contrary.
Solid composition
The solid composition of the invention comprises: a neutral cellulase, a filler, at least one non-ionic surfactant, an anti-redeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer.
Neutral cellulase
The neutral cellulase shows an enzymatic activity of at least 16000 u/g, wherein 1 unit of CMCase equals to the amount of enzyme, which hydrolyses sodium carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC-Na) to get 1 pg of reducing sugar (expressed as glucose) in 1 minute at 50°C and a pH value of 6.0.
Neutral cellulases are commercially available from companies such as Novozymes, Sigma-Aldrich, or Infinite Enzymes.
The content of the neutral cellulase in the composition of the invention is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 20 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 15 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 10 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 0.8 wt.% and 3 wt.%, and yet more preferably between 0.9 wt.% and 1.5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
Filler
Fillers according to the invention include tectosilicates, calcium carbonates and calcium magnesium carbonates, china clay or kaolin, micas, talc, titanium dioxide, wollastonite and/or mixtures thereof.
Tectosilicates are preferred, particularly silicon dioxide minerals and minerals of the feldspar group.
A preferred silicon dioxide mineral is silica flour.
Preferred minerals of the feldspar group are ‘quartz free’ or ‘crystalline silica free’ feldspars, particularly preferred are albite (from the plagioclass feldspar group), microcline (from the alkali feldspar group) and nepheline (from the feldspathoid family). The most preferred tectosilicate is nepheline syenite, a magmatic rock consisting of albite, microcline and nepheline.
Silica flour is the result of a milling quartz up to a specific particle size. In a preferred embodiment, the filler is silica flour or nepheline syenite, wherein 80 wt.%, preferably 85 wt.% and more preferably 90 wt.% of the particles shows a particle size >20 pm, preferably having a D50 comprised between about 40 pm and about 150 pm; in a more preferred embodiment, D50 is about 135 pm, and in another preferred embodiment, D50 is about 45 pm. In a preferred embodiment, at least about 90% of the particles show a particle size of at least about 100 pm. In another preferred embodiment at least about 50% of the particles show a particle size of at least about 40 pm. Particle size being determined by sieving according to AFNOR X11-507, optionally according to ISO 565 R20 series.
In a more preferred embodiment, silica flour or quartz free feldspar such as nepheline syenite, shows D50 about 135 pm and at least about 90% of the particles show a particle size of at least about 100 pm, wherein particle size being determined by sieving according to AFNOR X11-507, optionally according to ISO 565 R20 series.
Silica flour comprises usually more than 95 wt.% of silicon dioxide, being the rest (below 5 wt.%) metal oxides, such as AI2O3, TiO2, F2O3, CaO, MgO, K2O and Na2O. Density (pycnometer) of silica flour is comprised between 2 and 3 g/cm3.
Silica flour is commercially available through companies, such as, for example, Industrial Mineral Services, Redox, or Sibelco.
A preferred mineral from the quartz free feldspar group is nepheline syenite. Nepheline syenite is a magmatic rock consisting of albite (sodium aluminum silicate), microcline (potassium aluminum silicate) and nepheline (sodium potassium aluminum silicate). Nepheline syenite is a mineral that does not coexist with quartz, in other words, is a crystalline silica free mineral and therefore is not classified nor requires labelling due to any presence of fine crystalline silica or respirable crystalline silica (RSC).
According to a typical chemical analysis (XRF) nepheline syenite comprises usually more than 40 wt.% of metal oxides different from silicon dioxide, such as AI2O3, Na2<D, K2O, CaO, SrO, BaO and MgO. Nepheline syenite is commercially available through companies, such as, for example, AGSCO Corporation, BariteWorld, Gruppo Minerali Maffei SpA or Sibelco Nordic AS.
The content of filler in the composition of the invention is comprised between 10 wt.% and 95 wt.%, preferably between 20 wt.% and 92 wt.%, more preferably between 30 wt.% and 90 wt.%, more preferably between 40 wt.% and 89 wt.%, more preferably between 60 wt.% and 88 wt.%, more preferably between 80 wt.% and 87 wt.%, and yet more preferably between 83 wt.% and 86 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
Non-ionic surfactant
The composition of the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.
Among the most representative non-ionic surfactants are polyalkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyalkoxylated alkylphenols, polyal koxylated fatty acids, fatty acid alkanolamides, copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, polyalkoxylated polyols, esters of fatty acids with polyalkoxylated polyols, amine oxides, and amidoamine oxides.
The HLB, hydrophilic-lipophilic balance defines the degree to which a surfactant is hydrophilic or lipophilic. As disclosed in X. Domingo, A guide to the surfactants world, Proa, Barcelona, 1995, in 1949, W.C. Griffin defined the HLB number in such a way that every surfactant has one HLB number. Surfactants with low HLB are more hydrophobic than hydrophilic and are scarcely soluble in water and generally do not foam. Conversely, surfactants with high HLB values are hydrophilic, very soluble in water and good foamers.
Non-ionic surfactant to be used in the composition of the invention comprises at least one of ethoxylated C12-C18 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 20 - 100 EG (20 to 100 mols of ethylene oxide); Cie-C fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 20 - 100 EO; ethoxylated castor oil with 20 - 200 EO; ethoxylated C12-C18 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 3 - 15 EO; ethoxylated C13-C15 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 3 - 15 EO; or ethoxylated Cs-C , linear or branched, with 3 - 15 EO.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a combination of a non-ionic surfactant having a high HLB, namely >10, and a non-ionic surfactant having a low HLB, namely <10. In a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a combination of an ethoxylated C12-C18, preferably Cie-C fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with more than 20 EO, preferably more than 30 EO, more preferably more than 40 EO, more preferably more than 50 EO, more preferably more than 60 EO, more preferably more than 70 EO, and yet more preferably about 80 EO, and an ethoxylated C12-C18, preferably C13-C15, fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with less than 20 EO, preferably, less than 15 EO, more preferably less than 10 EO, and yet more preferably with 6-8 EO. In a more preferred embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant comprises a combination of Cie-Cis linear fatty alcohol with 50 -100 EO, preferably 70 - 90 EO, more preferably about 80 EO, and C13-C15 linear or branched fatty alcohol with 4 - 10 EO, preferably 5 - 9 EO, more preferably 6 - 8 EO, more preferably about 7 EO.
Non-ionic surfactants are commercially available through companies, such as, for example, BASF, Kao, or Huntsmann.
The content of non-ionic surfactant in the composition of the invention is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 40 wt.%, preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 30 wt.%, preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 20 wt.%, preferably between 1 wt.% and 15 wt.%, more preferably between 2 wt.% and 10 wt.%, and more preferably between 3 wt.% and 5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition. In a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises between 1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 2 wt.% and 7 wt.%, more preferably between 3 wt.% and 5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition, of a non-ionic surfactant having a high HLB, namely >10, and between 0.1 wt.% and 5 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 2 wt.%, more preferably between 0.3 wt.% and 1 wt.%, and more preferably about 0.5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition, of a non-ionic surfactant having a low HLB, namely <10.
Anti-redeposition agent
An anti-redeposition agent in the composition of the invention prevents redeposition of the removed dyestuff onto the surface of the fabric.
In the context of the present invention, the anti-redeposition agent comprises at least one of PEG-polyester, polyvinylpyrrolidone, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyethylene glycol, or polymeric polycarboxylate. Preferably a PEG-polyester is used. PEG-polyesters are defined by CAS Nr. 9016-88-0. Polymeric polycarboxylate materials can be prepared by polymerizing or copolymerizing suitable unsaturated monomers, preferably in their acid form. Unsaturated monomeric acids that can be polymerized to form suitable polymeric polycarboxylates include acrylic acid, maleic acid (or maleic anhydride), fumaric acid, itaconic acid, aconitic acid, mesaconic acid, citraconic acid and methylenemalonic acid. Particularly suitable polymeric polycarboxylates can be derived from acrylic acid. Such acrylic acid-based polymers which are useful herein are the water-soluble salts of polymerized acrylic acid, for example, the alkali metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
Another polymeric material which can be included is polyethylene glycol (PEG) having a molecular weight range of from about 500 to about 100,000, preferably from about 1,000 to about 50,000, more preferably from about 1,500 to about 10,000.
PEG-polyesters are disclosed for example in US4116885. Usually PEG- polyesters have an average molecular weight of 5,000 to 200,000, preferably 10,000 to 50,000. Suitable polyester soil release polymers include the Repel-o-tex® series of polymers such as Repel-o-tex® SF2 (Rhodia) and/or the Texcare® series of polymers such as Texcare® SRA300 (Clariant).
Anti-redeposition agents are commercially available, for example, from companies such as BASF, Sidley Chemical, or Sigma-Aldrich.
The content of the anti-redeposition agent in the composition of the invention is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 8 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 6 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 1 wt.% and 4 wt.%, yet more preferably between 1.5 wt.% and 3 wt.%, and more preferably about 2 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
Dispersing agent
The composition of the invention comprises a dispersing agent. Generally, a dispersing agent is added to a suspension of solid or liquid particles in a liquid to improve the separation of the particles and to prevent their settling or clumping.
In the context of the invention, the dispersing agent comprises at least one of naphtalenesulfonic acid, polymer with formaldehyde, sodium salt (CAS Nr. 9084-06-4) or lignosulfonic acid sodium salt (CAS Nr. 8061-51-6), preferably the dispersing agent is naphtalenesulfonic acid, polymer with formaldehyde, sodium salt. Dispersing agents are commercially available through companies, such as, for example, Preparados Quimicos de Navarra, or Wegochem.
The content of the dispersing agent in the composition of the invention I comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 8 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 6 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 1 wt.% and 4 wt.%, yet more preferably between 1.5 wt.% and 3 wt.%, and more preferably about 2 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition. pH buffer
The composition of the invention comprises a pH buffer to maintain the pH value comprised between 5.5 and 7.5.
The pH buffer is selected, for example, from monosodium phosphate, monopotassium phosphate.
The content of the pH buffer in the composition of the invention is comprised between 1 wt.% and 20 wt.%, preferably, between 2 wt.% to 15 wt.%, more preferably between 3 wt.% and 12 wt.%, more preferably between 4 wt.% and 10 wt.%, more preferably between 5 wt.% and 8 wt.%, and more preferably about 7 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
Stone washing process
One aspect of the invention is a stone washing process for garments, selected from dyed garments and denim garments, which comprises the following steps: a) pre-treatment process, b) removing the water leading to wet garments, c) adding the composition of the invention, to the wet garments, d) stone washing of the wet garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet garments, wherein the pre-treatment process for denim garments comprises desizing of denim garments in a water bath, and wherein the pre-treatment process for dyed garments comprises dyeing of garments in a water bath. In one embodiment of the invention, the stone washing process is for denim garments, and comprises the following steps: a) desizing of denim garments in a water bath, b) removing the water leading to wet denim garments, c) adding the composition of the invention, to the wet denim garments, d) stone washing of the wet denim garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet denim garments.
In another embodiment of the invention, the stone washing process is for dyed garments, and comprises the following steps: a) dyeing of garments in a water bath, b) removing the water leading to wet garments, c) adding the composition of the invention, to the wet garments, d) stone washing of the wet garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet garments.
Desizing
The desizing process may be carried out using standard procedures well-known to the skilled person in the art, such as disclosed in Ch. Tomasino, Chemistry & Technology of fabric Preparation & Finishing, North Carolina State University, 1992. In a preferred embodiment, it takes place usually in a water bath at a temperature comprised between 40°C and 80°C, preferably between 50°C and 60°C, for a period of time comprised between 5 and 30 minutes, preferably between 10 and 20 minutes, using a desizing composition comprising as main components an a- amylase enzyme and at least one non-ionic surfactant. The bath ratio is usually 1 kg denim garments: 10 I of water, and the dosage of the desizing composition is usually about 1 g/l.
Dyeing
The dyeing process may be carried out using standard procedures well- known to the skilled person in the art, such as disclosed in N. N. Mahapatra. Textile Dyes, Woodhead Publishing India, New Delhi, 2016.
The dyeing process usually comprises the treatment of the garment with a mordant composition before the treatment with a dyeing composition to reduce the wash out or fade away of the dye. The mordant composition is added usually to the bath at room temperature. The treatment with a mordant composition usually takes place in a water bath at a temperature comprised between 30°C and 60°C, preferably between 40°C and 55°C, for a period of time comprised between 30 and 60 minutes, preferably between 40 and 55 minutes. The rate to heat the bath from room temperature is about 2°C/min. In an embodiment, sodium hydroxide is added during the mordant process. The bath is cooled to room temperature after the treatment time, usually at a rate of about 5°C/min, garments are rinsed with water and adjusted at neutral pH. The liquor ratio typically used in the mordanting step is comprised between 10:1 and 20:1.
The dyeing process comprises the treatment of the garment with a dyeing composition and usually takes place in a water bath at a temperature comprised between 50°C and 90°C, preferably between 60°C and 80°C, for a period of time comprised between 30 and 90 minutes, preferably between 50 and 80 minutes. After the dyeing process, the water bath is cooled to a temperature about 40°C. The liquor ratio typically used in the dyeing step is comprised between 10:1 and 20:1.
Different kind of dyes may be used, such as acid dyes, direct dyes, reactive dyes, or pigment dispersions.
Removing of water
After the desizing or the dyeing step, the water is removed leading to wet garments, dyed or denim garments, usually containing between 0.2 and 2 kg of water I kg of garment, preferably between 0.5 and 1.5 kg of water I kg of garment, and more preferably between 0.75 and 1 kg of water / kg of garment. The water is removed by emptying it through the drain usually in a period of 2 to 10 minutes.
Adding the stone washing composition
The composition of the invention is added to the wet garments, dyed or denim garments, usually in 2 or 3 times, in order to warrant a homogenous distribution. After step b) up to the end of the process, water is not added and heating is not applied.
Rinsing
After the stone washing step, garments are rinsed with fresh water to remove chemicals and silica flour. The stone washing of garments may be carried out in an industrial washing machine, which are commercially available.
Surprisingly, the composition used in the stone washing process, even in the presence of low amount of water, is able to provide garments, in particular dyed and denim garments, with a “used” look with the minimization of effluents, without the use of additional wetting agents and/or dispersing agents both in the desizing process and in the stone washing process, without the need of heating garments during the stone washing process, without the compulsory need of using pumice stone, and maintaining the tear strength of the fabric.
The final look obtained with said process is apparently comparable to the final look obtained using a standard process of stone washing.
In the case of denim garments, a stricter assessment of the appearance, leads to the conclusion that the process according to the invention provides denim garments with improved back staining, abrasion, biopolishing effect and touch.
Another aspect of the invention is the use of said composition for the treatment of garments. In one embodiment, the garments are dyed garments. In another embodiment the garments are denim garments. In an embodiment, the use is for conferring a used look to the garments.
The invention comprises the following embodiments:
1.- A solid composition for a textile stone washing process, characterized in that it comprises a neutral cellulase, a filler, at least one non-ionic surfactant, an antiredeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer, the filler preferably selected from tectosilicates, calcium carbonates and calcium magnesium carbonates, china clay or kaolin, micas, talc, titanium dioxide, wollastonite and or mixtures thereof.
2.- The solid composition according to embodiment 1 , characterized in that the content of the neutral cellulase is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 20 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 15 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 10 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 0.8 wt.% and 3 wt.%, and yet more preferably between 0.9 wt.% and 1.5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
3.- The solid composition according to embodiment 1 or 2, characterized in that the filler is silica flour or a quartz free feldspar, preferably nepheline syenite. 4.- The solid composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 3, characterized in that 80 wt.%, preferably 85 wt.% and more preferably 90 wt.% of the silica flour particles or of nepheline syenite particles show a particle size >20 pm, according to AFNOR X11-507.
5.- The solid composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 4, characterized in that the content of filler, specifically of nepheline syenite or of silica flour is comprised between 10 wt.% and 95 wt.%, preferably between 20 wt.% and 92 wt.%, more preferably between 30 wt.% and 90 wt.%, more preferably between 40 wt.% and 89 wt.%, more preferably between 60 wt.% and 88 wt.%, more preferably between 80 wt.% and 87 wt.%, and yet more preferably between 83 wt.% and 86 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
6.- The solid composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 5, characterized in that the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from polyalkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyalkoxylated alkylphenols, polyalkoxylated fatty acids, fatty acid alkanolamides, copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, polyalkoxylated polyols, esters of fatty acids with polyalkoxylated polyols, amine oxides, and amidoamine oxides.
7.- The solid composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 6, characterized in that the non-ionic surfactant comprises at least one of ethoxylated C12-C18 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 20 - 100 EO (20 to 100 mols of ethylene oxide); Cw- C18 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 20 - 100 EO; ethoxylated castor oil with 20 - 200 EO; ethoxylated C12-C18 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 3 - 15 EO; ethoxylated C13-C15 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with 3 - 15 EO; or ethoxylated Cs- C10, linear or branched, with 3 - 15 EO.
8.- The solid composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises a combination of a non-ionic surfactant having a high HLB, namely >10, and a non-ionic surfactant having a low HLB, namely <10.
9.- The solid composition according to embodiment 8, characterized in that it comprises a combination of an ethoxylated C12-C18, preferably C16-C18 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with more than 20 EO, preferably more than 30 EO, more preferably more than 40 EO, more preferably more than 50 EO, more preferably more than 60 EO, more preferably more than 70 EO, and yet more preferably about 80 EO, and an ethoxylated C12-C18, preferably C13-C15, fatty alcohol, linear or branched, with less than 20 EO, preferably, less than 15 EO, more preferably less than 10 EO, and yet more preferably with 6-8 EO. 10.- The solid composition according to embodiment 9, characterized in that it comprises a combination of Cie-C linear fatty alcohol with 50 -100 EO, preferably 70 - 90 EO, more preferably about 80 EO, and C13-C15 linear or branched fatty alcohol with 4 - 10 EO, preferably 5 - 9 EO, more preferably 6 - 8 EO, more preferably about 7 EO.
11.- The solid composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 10, characterized in that the content of non-ionic surfactant is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 40 wt.%, preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 30 wt.%, preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 20 wt.%, preferably between 1 wt.% and 15 wt.%, more preferably between 2 wt.% and 10 wt.%, and more preferably between 3 wt.% and 5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
12.- The solid composition according to embodiment 11 , characterized in that it comprises between 1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 2 wt.% and 7 wt.%, more preferably between 3 wt.% and 5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition, of a non-ionic surfactant having a high HLB, namely >10, and between 0.1 wt.% and 5 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 2 wt.%, more preferably between 0.3 wt.% and 1 wt.%, and more preferably about 0.5 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition, of a non-ionic surfactant having a low HLB, namely <10.
13.- The solid composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 12, characterized in that the anti-redeposition agent comprises at least one of PEG-polyester, polyvinylpyrrolidone, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyethylene glycol, or polymeric polycarboxylate.
14.- The solid composition according to embodiment 13, characterized in that the antiredeposition agent comprises PEG-polyesters.
15.- The solid composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 14, characterized in that the content of the anti-redeposition agent is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 8 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 6 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 1 wt.% and 4 wt.%, yet more preferably between 1.5 wt.% and 3 wt.%, and more preferably about 2 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
16.- The solid composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 15, characterized in that the dispersing agent comprises at least one of naphtalenesulfonic acid, polymer with formaldehyde, sodium salt or lignosulfonic acid sodium salt. 17.- The solid composition according to embodiment 16, characterized in that the dispersing agent is naphtalenesulfonic acid, polymer with formaldehyde, sodium salt.
18.- The solid composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 17, characterized in that the content of the dispersing agent is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, preferably between 0.2 wt.% and 8 wt.%, more preferably between 0.5 wt.% and 6 wt.%, more preferably between 0.7 wt.% and 5 wt.%, more preferably between 1 wt.% and 4 wt.%, yet more preferably between 1.5 wt.% and 3 wt.%, and more preferably about 2 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
19.- The solid composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 18, characterized in that the pH buffer is selected from monosodium phosphate and monopotassium phosphate.
20.- The solid composition according to embodiment 19, characterized in that the content of the pH buffer is comprised between 1 wt.% and 20 wt.%, preferably, between 2 wt.% to 15 wt.%, more preferably between 3 wt.% and 12 wt.%, more preferably between 4 wt.% and 10 wt.%, more preferably between 5 wt.% and 8 wt.%, and more preferably about 7 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
21.- A stone washing process for garments, selected from dyed garments and denim garments, which comprises the following steps: a) pre-treatment process, b) removing the water leading to wet garments, c) adding the composition of anyone of embodiments 1 to 20 to the wet garments, d) stone washing of the wet garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet garments, wherein the pre-treatment process for denim garments comprises desizing of denim garments in a water bath, and wherein the pre-treatment process for dyed garments comprises dyeing of garments in a water bath.
22.- The process according to embodiment 21 , characterized in that the water is removed in step b) leading to wet garments, containing between 0.2 and 2 kg of water I kg of garment, preferably between 0.5 and 1 .5 kg of water I kg of garment, and more preferably between 0.75 and 1 kg of water I kg of garment.
23.- A stone washing process for denim garments according to embodiment 21 or 22, which comprises the following steps: a) desizing of denim garments in a water bath, b) removing the water leading to wet denim garments, c) adding the composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 20, to the wet denim garments, d) stone washing of the wet denim garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet denim garments.
24.- The process according to embodiment 23, characterized in that the desizing process takes place at a temperature comprised between 40°C and 80°C, preferably between 50°C and 60°C, for a period of time comprised between 5 and 30 minutes, preferably between 10 and 20 minutes.
25.- The process according to any one of embodiments 22 to 24, characterized in that the composition is added to the wet denim garments in 2 or 3 times.
26.- The process according to any one of embodiments 22 to 25, characterized in that after step b) up to the end of the process, water is not added and heating is not applied.
27.- A stone washing process for dyed garments, according to embodiment 21 or 22, which comprises the following steps: a) dyeing of garments in a water bath, b) removing the water leading to wet garments, c) adding the composition of the invention, to the wet garments, d) stone washing of the wet garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet garments.
28.- The process according to embodiment 27, characterized in that the dyeing process comprises the treatment of the garment with a mordant composition before the treatment with a dyeing composition.
29.- The process according to embodiment 28, characterized in that the treatment with a mordant composition takes place in a water bath at a temperature comprised between 30°C and 60°C, preferably between 40°C and 55°C, for a period of time comprised between 30 and 60 minutes, preferably between 40 and 50 minutes.
30.- The process according to anyone of embodiments 27 to 29, characterized in that the dyeing process comprises the treatment of the garment with a dyeing composition in a water bath at a temperature comprised between 50°C and 90°C, preferably between 60°C and 80°C, for a period of time comprised between 20 and 60 minutes, preferably between 30 and 50 minutes. 31.- The use of the composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 20 for the treatment of garments.
32.- The use according to embodiment 31 , characterized in that the garments are dyed garments.
33.- The use according to embodiment 31, characterized in that the garments are denim garments.
34.- The use according to anyone of embodiments 31 to 33, characterized in that the use is for conferring a used look to the garments.
In the following examples, different embodiments of the invention are provided.
Examples
Example 1: Stone washing process of denim garments
A batch of 200 garments (about 100 kg) were introduced into an industrial washing machine with a load capacity of 100 Kg and approximately 1000 litres of water were added. 1 Kg (1 g/l) of a desizing agent comprising a combination of amylase enzyme and dispersing/wetting surfactant were added. The bath was heated to 50-60°C, and kept for 10-20 minutes at such temperature.
After the desizing treatment, the machine was emptied while running for 2-5 minutes for removing the excess of water from the garments.
Afterwards 1 to 10 wt.% of the solid product comprising cellulase, abrasive agent (silicon dioxide), monosodium phosphate, non-ionic surfactant, antiredeposition polymer, and dispersing agent, was added in 2-3 times to guarantee its homogeneity. Without any additional water or heating process, the time reguired to reach the necessary degree of abrasion according to the garment model was about 20 to 30 minutes.
After this process, the necessary steps are followed to finish the garment according to the standard model.
The application effects derived from the treatment such as the touch, the degree of abrasion, biopolishing effect and back staining were assessed as satisfying and improved over the standard prior art process, as shown in Example 2.
Comparative Example 1 : Prior art stone washing process of denim garments A batch of 200 garments were placed in an industrial washing machine with a load capacity of 100 Kg and approximately 1000 litres of water were added.
2 Kg of amylase product, 1kg of dispersing surfactant were added and the bath was heated to 50-60°C. It was kept for 10-20 minutes at that temperature.
After the desizing treatment, a 5-minute rinse was performed with 1000 litres of water.
After rinsing, the industrial washing machine was refilled with 500 litres of water (1/5 bath ratio), 45 kg of pumice stone, 1 Kg of dispersant product and 1 Kg of cellulase enzyme were added. The bath was heated to 40°C and maintained the treatment until the required standard look of the garments was reached.
After this process, the necessary steps are followed to finish the garment according to the standard model.
Example 2: Assessment of the appearance of stone washed denim garments
The appearance (back staining, abrasion, biopolishing effect) and touch of denim garments treated according to the process disclosed in Example 1 and in Comparative Example 1 was assessed.
The redeposition of the Indigo dye in the pockets was objectively assessed by comparative reading the reflectance in the UV-visible range (380-780 nanometers) with a DATACOLOR 550 spectrophotometer, taking as a reference the pocket of an untreated garment:
It was also subjectively assessed by a panel of 6 experienced people who evaluate the results with a score of 1 to 5, with 1 being the most redeposited and the 5 cleanest.
The degree of abrasion was measured objectively using a spectrophotometer with the same characteristics as exposed above. The untreated garment was the reference and the same area of seam of the trousers of each of the tests was measured comparatively. It was also subjectively assessed by a panel of 6 experienced people who evaluate the results with a score of 1 to 5, with 1 being the least scorched and 5 being the most contrasted.
A panel of 6 experts evaluated the biopolishing effect through a microscope, evaluating the result from 1 to 5, with 1 being the lowest value (more piling) and 5 the highest value (greater biopolishing effect). Figure 1a shows the result of the treatment according to the process disclosed in the Comparative Example 1, and Figure 1b shows the results of the treatment according to the process of the invention (Example 1).
A panel of 6 experts evaluated the touch of the denim garment, evaluating the result from 1 to 5, with 1 being the lowest value (less soft and drape) and 5 the highest value (better touch and drape).
Table 1 summarizes the results of the assessment of the denim garments:
TABLE 1
Figure imgf000022_0001
It can be observed that the process according to the invention provides denim garments with improved appearance and touch.
The reflectance values obtained from spectrophotometric measurements are shown in Table 2:
TABLE 2
Figure imgf000022_0002
It was observed less back staining effect (i.e. , less reflectance between 380-780 nm) in Example 1 according to the process of the invention in comparison with the Comparative Example 1 according to a standard process.
It was also observed a better abrasion effect (i.e., less reflectance between 380-780 nm) in Example 1 according to the process of the invention in comparison with the Comparative Example 1 according to a standard process. Example 3: Stone washing process of dyed garments
A batch of 200 garments were placed in an industrial washing machine with a load capacity of 100 Kg and approximately 1000 litres of water were added. The garments were processed with a standard mordant process as shown in Figure 2.
Mordant composition was added to the bath at room temperature (A). After 5 minutes, the temperature of the water bath was increased to about 50° C at a rate of 2°C/min. About 15 minutes after reaching said temperature, 2.5 ml of sodium hydroxide solution (50%) were added to the bath (B). After about 20 minutes, the bath was cooled to room temperature at a rate of 5°C/min. Garments were rinsed with water and neutralized with acetic acid (C).
The dyeing process was carried out adding 1000 litres of water to the garments, which were processed according to a standard dyeing process as shown in Figure 3.
A direct dyestuff was added at room temperature (A), and after about 5 minutes, temperature was increased to about 80°C at a rate of 2°C/min. About 10 minutes after reaching said temperature, 5-15 g/l of sodium sulfate were added to the bath (B). After about 25 minutes, the bath was cooled to a temperature of about 40°C at a rate of 5°C/min.
After emptying the dyeing bath without rinsing to maintain the temperature, the machine was run while draining for 10 minutes.
Afterwards 1 to 10 wt.% of the solid product comprising cellulase, abrasive agent (silicon dioxide), monosodium phosphate, non-ionic surfactant, antiredeposition polymer, and dispersing agent, was added in 2-3 times to guarantee its homogeneity. Without any additional water or heating process, the time reguired to reach the necessary degree of abrasion according to the garment model was about 20 to 30 minutes.
After this process, the necessary steps are followed to finish the garment according to the standard model.
The application effects derived from the treatment such as the touch, the degree of abrasion and the biopolishing effect were assessed as satisfying and improved over the standard prior art process, as shown in Example 4. Comparative example 2: Prior art stone washing process of dyed garments
A batch of 200 garments were placed in an industrial washing machine with a load capacity of 100 Kg and approximately 1000 litres of water were added. The garments were processed first with a standard mordant process and second with a standard dyeing process as described in Example 3.
Afterwards 1000 litres of water were added and 1 to 10 wt.% of a liguid product comprising a cellulase and a pH buffer was added. After 60 minutes at 40°C, the necessary degree of abrasion according to the garment model was achieved.
After this process, the necessary steps were followed to finish the garment according to the standard model.
Example 4: Assessment of the appearance of stone washed dyed garments
The appearance (abrasion, biopolishing effect and touch) of garments treated according to the process disclosed in Example 3 and in Comparative Example 2 was assessed.
The degree of abrasion was assessed by a panel of 6 experienced people who evaluate the results with a score of 1 to 5, with 1 being the least scorched and 5 being the most contrasted.
A panel of 6 experts evaluated the biopolishing effect through a microscope, evaluating the result from 1 to 5, with 1 being the lowest value (more piling) and 5 the highest value (greater biopolishing effect).
A panel of 6 experts evaluated the touch of the denim garment, evaluating the result from 1 to 5, with 1 being the lowest value (less soft and drape) and 5 the highest value (better touch and drape).
Table 3 summarizes the results of the assessment of the treated garments:
TABLE 3
Figure imgf000024_0001
It can be observed that the process according to the invention provides garments with a better abrasion effect and improved appearance and touch in comparison with the standard process. Example 5: Stone washing process of denim garments
A batch of 200 garments (about 100 kg) were introduced into an industrial washing machine with a load capacity of 100 Kg and approximately 1000 litres of water were added. 1 Kg (1 g/l) of an amylase enzyme and 1 Kg (1 g/l) of a dispersing agent I wetting surfactant were added. The bath was heated to 50-60°C and kept for 10-20 minutes at such temperature.
After the desizing treatment, the machine was emptied while running for 2-5 minutes for removing the excess of water from the garments.
Afterwards 2 kg (2 wt.% owg) of the solid product of the invention comprising a neutral cellulase, nepheline syenite, monosodium phosphate, non-ionic surfactant, anti-redeposition polymer, and dispersing agent, were added in 2 times to guarantee its homogeneity. Without any additional water or heating process, the time reguired to reach the necessary degree of abrasion according to the garment model was about 20 to 30 minutes.
After the stone wash process, a cleaning process was carried out by adding 1000 litres of water and 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a detergent. Afterwards a rinse was performed by adding 1000 litres of water and after that the machine was emptied.
Finally, the process ended with a softwash consisting in adding 1000 litres of water, 0.3 kg (0.3 g/l) of citric acid and 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a silicone microemulsion, heating to 40°C at 4°C/min, keeping for 10-20 minutes at such temperature and finally emptying the machine and draining the garments.
The environmental impact such as water consumption (litres/garment), energy (kWh/garment), chemicals (hazard impact) and impact on workers’ health were assessed compared to a standard prior art process, as shown in Comparative Example 3.
Comparative Example 3: Prior Stone washing process of denim garments
A batch of 200 garments (about 100 kg) were introduced into an industrial washing machine with a load capacity of 100 Kg and approximately 1000 litres of water were added. 1 Kg (1 g/l) of an amylase enzyme and 1 Kg (1 g/l) of a dispersing agent I wetting surfactant were added. The bath was heated to 50-60°C and kept for 10-20 minutes at such temperature. After the desizing treatment, the machine was rinsed with 1000 litres of water and emptied.
Afterwards 500 litres of water were introduced and 50 kg (2 wt.% owg) of pumice stone, 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a neutral cellulase and 0.5 kg (1 g/l) of a dispersing agent I wetting surfactant were added. After heating to 45°C at 4°C/min, the temperature was kept for 20 to 30 minutes.
After the first stone wash process, a cleaning step was carried out by adding 1000 litres of water and 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a detergent. Afterwards a rinse was performed by adding 1000 litres of water and after that the machine was emptied.
A new stone wash step was carried out by adding 500 litres of water, 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a neutral cellulase and 0.5 kg (1 g/l) of a dispersing agent I wetting surfactant. After heating to 45°C at 4°C/min, the temperature was kept for 20 to 30 minutes.
After the second stone wash process, a cleaning step was carried out by adding 1000 litres of water and 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a detergent. Afterwards a rinse was performed by adding 1000 litres of water and after that the machine was emptied.
Afterwards a de-stoning step was carried out by taking manually the pumice stone of the machine.
After the de-stoning step, a cleaning process was carried out by adding 1000 litres of water and 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a detergent. Afterwards a rinse was performed by adding 1000 litres of water and after that the machine was emptied.
Finally, the process ended with a softwash consisting in adding 1000 litres of water, 0.3 kg (0.3 g/l) of citric acid and 1 kg (1 wt.% owg) of a silicone microemulsion, heating to 40°C at 4°C/min, keeping for 10-20 minutes at such temperature and finally emptying the machine and draining the garments.
The environmental impact such as water consumption (litres/garment), energy (kWh/garment), chemicals (environmental hazard) and workers’ health of both processes of Example 5 and Comparative Example 3 is shown in Tables 4 and 5: TABLE 4
Figure imgf000027_0001
TABLE 5
Figure imgf000027_0002
Environmental Impact Measuring software of Jeanologia The lower overall EIM® score of the process of the invention compared to the prior art process (28% reduction) confirms the lower environmental impact of the process of the invention.

Claims

27
1.- A solid composition for a textile stone washing process, characterized in that it comprises a neutral cellulase, a filler, at least one non-ionic surfactant, an antiredeposition agent, a dispersing agent, and a pH buffer.
2.- The solid composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of the neutral cellulase is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 20 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
3.- The solid composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the filler is selected from tectosilicates, calcium carbonates and calcium magnesium carbonates, china clay or kaolin, micas, talc, titanium dioxide, wollastonite and or mixtures thereof.
4.- The solid composition according to claim 3, wherein the filler is silica flour.
5.- The solid composition according to claim 3, wherein the filler is a quartz free feldspar.
6.- The solid composition according to claim 5, wherein the quartz free feldspar is nepheline syenite.
7.- The solid composition according to claim 6, wherein 80 wt.% of the nepheline syenite particles show a particle size >45 pm, according to AFNOR X.11-507.
8.- The solid composition according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the content of nepheline syenite is comprised between 10 wt.% and 95 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
9.- The solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from polyal koxylated fatty alcohols, polyalkoxylated alkylphenols, polyalkoxylated fatty acids, fatty acid alkanolamides, copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, polyalkoxylated polyols, esters of fatty acids with polyalkoxylated polyols, amine oxides and amidoamine oxides.
10.- The solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising a combination of a non-ionic surfactant having a HLB >10 and a non-ionic surfactant having a HLB <10.
11.- The solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the content of non-ionic surfactant is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 40 wt.%.
12.- The solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 , wherein the anti-redeposition agent comprises at least one of PEG-polyester, polyvinylpyrrolidone, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyethylene glycol or polymeric polycarboxylate.
13.- The solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the content of the anti-redeposition agent is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
14.- The solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 wherein the dispersing agent comprises at least one of naphtalenesulfonic acid, polymer with formaldehyde, sodium salt or lignosulfonic acid sodium salt.
15.- The solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the content of the dispersing agent is comprised between 0.1 wt.% and 10 wt.%, over the total weight of the composition.
16.- The solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the pH buffer is selected from monosodium phosphate and monopotassium phosphate.
17.- A stone washing process for garments, selected from dyed garments and denim garments, which comprises the following steps: a) pre-treatment process, b) removing the water leading to wet garments, c) adding the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, to the wet garments, d) stone washing of the wet garments, and e) rinsing the stone washed wet garments, wherein: the pre-treatment process for denim garments comprises desizing of denim garments in a water bath;
- the pre-treatment process for dyed garments comprises dyeing of garments in a water bath and
- water is not added and heating is not applied after step b) up to the end of the process.
18. The stone washing process according to claim 17, characterized in that the water is removed in step b) leading to wet garments, containing between 0.2 and 2 kg of water / kg of garment, preferably between 0.5 and 1.5 kg of water / kg of garment, and more preferably between 0.75 and 1 kg of water I kg of garment.
19. The use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 for the treatment of garments.
20. The use according to claim 19, wherein the garments are dyed and denim garments.
21. The use according to claims 19 or 20, for conferring a used look to the garments.
RECTIFIED SHEET (RULE 91) ISA/EP
PCT/EP2021/066056 2020-11-18 2021-06-15 Textile stone washing process WO2022106072A1 (en)

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