WO2022037814A1 - Teintures pour fibres de kératine comprenant des colorants naturels encapsulés - Google Patents

Teintures pour fibres de kératine comprenant des colorants naturels encapsulés Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022037814A1
WO2022037814A1 PCT/EP2021/064624 EP2021064624W WO2022037814A1 WO 2022037814 A1 WO2022037814 A1 WO 2022037814A1 EP 2021064624 W EP2021064624 W EP 2021064624W WO 2022037814 A1 WO2022037814 A1 WO 2022037814A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
shell
agent according
acid
wax
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PCT/EP2021/064624
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Konstantin Goutsis
Daniela Kessler-Becker
Original Assignee
Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Application filed by Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa filed Critical Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority to EP21730551.5A priority Critical patent/EP4199877A1/fr
Publication of WO2022037814A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022037814A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09B—ORGANIC DYES OR CLOSELY-RELATED COMPOUNDS FOR PRODUCING DYES, e.g. PIGMENTS; MORDANTS; LAKES
    • C09B67/00—Influencing the physical, e.g. the dyeing or printing properties of dyestuffs without chemical reactions, e.g. by treating with solvents grinding or grinding assistants, coating of pigments or dyes; Process features in the making of dyestuff preparations; Dyestuff preparations of a special physical nature, e.g. tablets, films
    • C09B67/0001—Post-treatment of organic pigments or dyes
    • C09B67/0003—Drying, e.g. sprax drying; Sublimation of the solvent
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09B—ORGANIC DYES OR CLOSELY-RELATED COMPOUNDS FOR PRODUCING DYES, e.g. PIGMENTS; MORDANTS; LAKES
    • C09B67/00—Influencing the physical, e.g. the dyeing or printing properties of dyestuffs without chemical reactions, e.g. by treating with solvents grinding or grinding assistants, coating of pigments or dyes; Process features in the making of dyestuff preparations; Dyestuff preparations of a special physical nature, e.g. tablets, films
    • C09B67/0001—Post-treatment of organic pigments or dyes
    • C09B67/0004—Coated particulate pigments or dyes
    • C09B67/0008—Coated particulate pigments or dyes with organic coatings
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09B—ORGANIC DYES OR CLOSELY-RELATED COMPOUNDS FOR PRODUCING DYES, e.g. PIGMENTS; MORDANTS; LAKES
    • C09B67/00—Influencing the physical, e.g. the dyeing or printing properties of dyestuffs without chemical reactions, e.g. by treating with solvents grinding or grinding assistants, coating of pigments or dyes; Process features in the making of dyestuff preparations; Dyestuff preparations of a special physical nature, e.g. tablets, films
    • C09B67/0097—Dye preparations of special physical nature; Tablets, films, extrusion, microcapsules, sheets, pads, bags with dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62—Coated
    • A61K2800/622—Coated by organic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65—Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/652—The particulate/core comprising organic material

Definitions

  • the invention relates to agents for coloring fibers containing keratin, in particular human hair, which contain coated or encapsulated natural dyes.
  • the colorants contain the natural dyes in the form of a particulate component, each particle having a core and a shell surrounding this core. At least one natural dye is located in the core of the particle, and the shell contains a hydrophobic encapsulating material.
  • a further object of the present invention relates to a method for coloring keratin material, in which the coloring agent described above is used.
  • Changing the shape and color of the hair is an important area of modern cosmetics. This means that the appearance of the hair can be adapted both to current fashion trends and to the individual wishes of each person. Consumers use color-changing agents to color hairstyles in a fashionable way or to conceal gray or even white hair with fashionable or natural shades. In addition to the desired coloring performance, these agents should cause as little damage as possible to the hair and preferably even have additional care properties.
  • oxidation colorants are used for permanent, intensive colorations with appropriate fastness properties.
  • Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. Under the influence of oxidizing agents or atmospheric oxygen, the developer components form the actual dyes with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • the oxidation coloring agents are characterized by excellent, long-lasting coloring results. For colorations that appear natural, however, a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors usually has to be used; in many cases direct dyes are still used for shading.
  • a general problem in the use of oxidative coloring agents is the damage to the hair caused by the use of the oxidizing agent.
  • Primary aromatic amines with another free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, heterocyclic hydrazones, diaminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives are usually used as developer components.
  • m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, pyridine derivatives, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenols are used as coupler components.
  • Dyes or tints which contain so-called substantive dyes as the coloring component are usually used for temporary dyeing. These are dye molecules that are applied directly to the substrate and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. These dyeings are generally much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that an often undesired shift in nuances or even a visible homogeneous loss of color then occurs much more quickly.
  • Natural dyes cannot usually be made available to the user in the form of an aqueous or water-based cream, emulsion or solution, since the natural dyes are not stable in aqueous solution or dispersion .
  • conventional dyes based on natural dyes are often offered in the form of a powder, which the user has to mix with hot water just before the dyeing process.
  • the packaging in the form of a powder is inconvenient for the user and has various disadvantages.
  • insufficient stirring can lead to an inhomogeneous colorant, which also results in an uneven color result in the subsequent application.
  • dust can arise which may be inhaled by the user or which is deposited on furniture and objects in an undesirable manner and soils them.
  • dyes from natural sources can also be contaminated with fungi or bacteria, so that adequate preservation is important takes. Since it is difficult to use the usual preservatives for powders, they can only be preserved by irradiation. However, preservation by means of irradiation involves a high expenditure of energy. If the powder is stored in an open or leaking container, subsequent colonization with bio-organisms is also possible. Colonization by bacteria or fungi is highly undesirable.
  • the coloring agent should be available to the user in the form of a one-component system, so that any mixing with another agent or with water becomes superfluous. During the application of the stain, the appearance of dust and contamination should be avoided.
  • the colorant should be characterized by good storage stability and should be easy to preserve.
  • the colorant should also have good coloring properties, color the hair intensively and evenly, not damage the hair and, if possible, also have a good care effect.
  • the colorant contains at least one natural dye in the form of encapsulated particles, with a hydrophobic material being used as the encapsulation material.
  • a first object of the present invention is an agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing at least one particulate component which has a particle core and a shell surrounding this core, wherein
  • the core comprises at least one natural dye
  • the shell comprises at least one hydrophobic encapsulating material
  • the work leading to this invention has shown that the above objects can be achieved excellently by providing colorants which contain at least one particulate component which has a particle core of natural colorants and a coating of certain hydrophobic shell materials.
  • the natural dyes By encapsulating or coating the natural dyes, they can be dispersed in an aqueous or water-containing carrier, with the hydrophobic encapsulation material preventing contact between the natural dye and water. In this way, the natural dye can be provided both in finely dispersed form and in a storage-stable form.
  • a hydrophobic solid or else a fat component with an optimally adapted melting point was chosen as the enveloping material.
  • the choice of the appropriate fat component allows the encapsulation material to melt when heated to a certain temperature, thereby releasing the natural dye.
  • the shell melts and can be emulsified or dispersed in the colorant by shaking, and the released natural colorant is available for the coloring process.
  • the hydrophobic encapsulation material also has a care effect in its melted or emulsified or dispersed form.
  • Keratin fibers or keratin fibers are to be understood as meaning fur, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • the agents according to the invention are primarily suitable for dyeing keratin fibers, there is nothing in principle to prevent their use in other areas as well.
  • the agents contain the particulate component that is essential to the invention, preferably in a cosmetic carrier, particularly preferably in a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • a cosmetic carrier particularly preferably in a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • such carriers can be, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or foaming solutions containing surfactants, such as shampoos, foam aerosols, foam formulations or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • Agents for coloring keratin fibers are particularly preferably gels, creams or emulsions.
  • the first subject of the present invention is therefore an agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing in an aqueous cosmetic carrier at least one particulate component which has a particle core and a shell surrounding this core, wherein
  • the core comprises at least one natural dye
  • the shell comprises at least one hydrophobic encapsulating material. particulate component
  • the agents according to the invention contain at least one particulate component as an essential ingredient.
  • the particulate component comprises a plurality or a multiplicity of particles, each of these particles comprising a core and a shell surrounding this core.
  • the particulate component can also be referred to as a multiplicity of particles, as a mixture of grains, as a powder or as granules. More preferably, the particles of the particulate component are solid at room temperature (22°C). Furthermore, it can be preferred if the particulate component comprises particles of a certain size. In a first approximation, the particle size is understood to mean the particle diameter, which, strictly speaking, however, only applies to spherical particles. In the case of non-isometric or irregularly shaped particles, the particle size is a mean value of the particle dimensions, which can be defined in different ways depending on the application. The term grain size is often used as a further designation for the particle size.
  • a uniform particle size is generally not to be expected, but rather a particle size distribution.
  • Characteristic parameters such as the "mean" particle size of the solid, can be determined using a corresponding distribution curve.
  • the particles of the particulate component have an average particle size or particle size D50 of from 1.0 to 50 ⁇ m, preferably from 5.0 to 45 ⁇ m, preferably from 10 to 40 ⁇ m, in particular from 14 to 30 ⁇ m. having.
  • the mean particle size D50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
  • the particulate component can also include particles of particularly large dimensions, which can also be referred to as pellets.
  • Pellets can be produced, for example, using extruder technology known to those skilled in the art or using the top spray method.
  • composition for dyeing keratin fibers in particular human hair, containing dye-containing pellets, the pellets having a core and a shell surrounding this core, wherein
  • the core comprises at least one natural dye
  • the shell comprises at least one hydrophobic encapsulating material.
  • composition for dyeing keratinic fibers in particular human hair, containing pellets containing carrier dye in an aqueous cosmetic carrier, the pellets having a core and a shell surrounding this core, wherein
  • the core comprises at least one natural dye
  • the shell comprises at least one hydrophobic encapsulating material.
  • the particulate component contained in the agent according to the invention is characterized in that its particles have a core which comprises at least one natural dye (a).
  • Suitable natural dyes are all dyes contained in plants, animals and microorganisms and obtainable from them, especially those that have already been used to dye keratin fibers or hair. An overview of natural dyes can be found in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, 4th edition (19), Volume 11, pages 100-134.
  • the natural dye (a) is selected from indigo, red henna, neutral henna, black henna, chamomile blossom, sandalwood, black tea, green tea, buckthorn bark, sage, logwood, madder root, Catechu, Sedre, Alkana Root, Walnut Shell and Cochineal.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the particle core comprises at least one natural dye (a) selected from the group consisting of indigo, red henna, neutral henna, black henna, chamomile blossom, sandalwood, black tea, green tea , Buckthorn Bark, Sage, Logwood, Madder Root, Catechu, Sedre, Alkana Root, Walnut Shell and Cochineal.
  • a natural dye
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the particle core comprises indigo (a).
  • the core of the particles can optionally also include other optional ingredients, such as extenders and/or carriers.
  • other optional ingredients such as extenders and/or carriers.
  • the core consists of at least 90% by weight of natural dyes, then 90% by weight of the total weight of the particle core is one or more natural dyes, and the remaining maximum 10% by weight can be other substances, for example release agents, Extenders, polymers or inorganic salts act.
  • a composition according to the invention is characterized in that the particle core--based on the total weight of the particle core--at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, further preferably at least 70% by weight and particularly preferably at least 90% by weight of natural dye(s) (a).
  • the particle core particularly preferably consists of natural dye(s) (a).
  • the particles of the particulate component also comprise a shell surrounding this core.
  • This shell comprises or contains at least one hydrophobic encapsulation material.
  • the encapsulation material is any material that is capable of forming a shell. Most preferably, the encapsulating material is solid at room temperature (22°C).
  • a hydrophobic material is characterized in that it has a solubility in water at room temperature (22° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight.
  • composition for coloring keratin fibers in particular human hair, is preferred, containing at least one particulate component which has a particle core and a shell surrounding this core, wherein
  • the core comprises at least one natural dye
  • the shell comprises at least one encapsulating material which has a solubility in water at room temperature (22° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight .
  • composition for coloring keratin fibers in particular human hair, containing at least one particulate component which has a particle core and a shell surrounding this core, wherein
  • the core comprises at least one natural dye
  • the shell comprises at least one encapsulating material which is solid at room temperature (22°) and which has a solubility in water at room temperature (22°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0 .1% by weight.
  • hydrophobic encapsulation material (b) which has a particularly well-adapted melting temperature.
  • Particularly preferred hydrophobic encapsulation materials (b) are solid at room temperature (22° C.) and consequently have a melting point which is above room temperature.
  • Particularly good effects were observed when the shell surrounding the particle core comprises a hydrophobic encapsulation material (b) which has a melting point of 25 to 80° C., preferably 26 to 70° C., more preferably 27 to 60° C. and very particularly preferably from 28 to 50 °C.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the shell surrounding the particle core comprises a hydrophobic encapsulation material (b) which has a melting point of 25 to 80° C., preferably 26 to 70° C., more preferably from from 27 to 60°C and most preferably from 28 to 50°C.
  • the hydrophobic encapsulating material (b) has a melting point of 25°C to 80°C, the natural dyes (a) contained in the core of the particulate component are protected from the external environment by a solid shell at room temperature. Since the agent according to the invention particularly preferably contains the hydrophobically encapsulated natural dyes in a water-containing cosmetic carrier, premature dissolution or hydrolysis of the natural dyes can be avoided in this way. Even at the temperatures customary during storage (room temperature), the shell of the particles remains firm and the storage stability of the dyes continues to be ensured.
  • the user can now heat the agent.
  • a particularly convenient way of doing this is, for example, heating the agent, including its packaging, in a water bath.
  • the melting range of 25 to 80 °C ensures that the hydrophobic encapsulation material (b) melts.
  • the hydrophobic encapsulating material is more easily emulsified or dispersed in the aqueous vehicle of the colorant. Freed from the coating, the natural dye is released and is available for the dyeing process.
  • the hydrophobic encapsulation material (b) has a melting range of 28 to 50.degree.
  • fats or fat components are hydrophobic encapsulation materials (b) with particularly good suitability.
  • fatty components are organic compounds with a solubility in water at room temperature (22° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Roger that.
  • fat components only includes uncharged (i.e. non-ionic) compounds.
  • Fat components have at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with at least 8 carbon atoms.
  • the molar weight of the fat components is at most 5000 g/mol, preferably at most 2500 g/mol and particularly preferably at most 1000 g/mol.
  • the fat components are neither polyoxyalkylated nor polyglycerylated compounds.
  • preferred fat components are understood to be the components from the group of C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid diglycerides, C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols and/or hydrocarbons.
  • nonionic substances are explicitly considered as fat components.
  • Charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not considered to be a fat component.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the shell surrounding the particle core comprises a hydrophobic encapsulation material (b) selected from the group consisting of C12-C30 fatty acid triglycerides, C12-C30 fatty acid diglycerides, Ci2-C30 fatty alcohols and hydrocarbons, most preferably Ci2-C30 fatty acid triglycerides.
  • a hydrophobic encapsulation material selected from the group consisting of C12-C30 fatty acid triglycerides, C12-C30 fatty acid diglycerides, Ci2-C30 fatty alcohols and hydrocarbons, most preferably Ci2-C30 fatty acid triglycerides.
  • a C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglyceride is understood as meaning the triester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acid. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids within a triglyceride molecule can be involved in the ester formation.
  • fatty acids are to be understood as meaning saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C 12 -C 30 carboxylic acids.
  • Unsaturated fatty acids can be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. In the case of an unsaturated fatty acid, its C-C double bond(s) can have the cis or trans configuration.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides are particularly suitable in which at least one of the ester groups is formed from glycerol with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (Stearic acid), Eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), Docosanoic acid (behenic acid), Petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-Octadecenoic acid], Palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-Hexadec-9-enoic acid], Oleic acid [(9Z)-Octadec-9-enoic acid] , elaidic acid [(9E)- octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-eno
  • a C 12 -C 30 fatty acid diglyceride is understood as meaning the diester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with two equivalents of fatty acid.
  • either the central and one terminal hydroxy group of the glycerol can be esterified with two equivalents of fatty acid, or both terminal hydroxy groups of the glycerol are each esterified with one fatty acid.
  • the glycerol can be esterified either with two structurally identical or with two different fatty acids.
  • the fatty acid diglycerides are particularly suitable in which at least one of the ester groups is formed from glycerol with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (Stearic acid), Eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), Docosanoic acid (behenic acid), Petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-Octadecenoic acid], Palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-Hexadec-9-enoic acid], Oleic acid [(9Z)-Octadec-9-enoic acid] , elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid],
  • the Ci2- ⁇ 30 fatty alcohols can be saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols with 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Ci2- ⁇ 30 fatty alcohols examples include dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecane -1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol) and/or behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol).
  • dodecan-1-ol dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol
  • tetradecan-1-ol tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol
  • hexadecan-1-ol hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol
  • Preferred linear, unsaturated fatty alcohols are (9Z)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9, 12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z)-eicos-9-en-1- ol), arachidonic alcohol ((5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol) and/ or brassidyl alcohol ((13E)-docosen-1-ol).
  • Hydrocarbons are compounds consisting exclusively of carbon and hydrogen atoms with 8 to 80 carbon atoms.
  • aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils (eg Paraffinium Liquidum or Paraffinum Perliquidum), isoparaffin oils, semisolid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, hard paraffin (Paraffinum Solidum), vaseline and polydecene.
  • Cocoa butter is a fat component that has a melting range that is particularly well suited to solving the problem of the invention.
  • Cocoa butter is obtained from the beans of the cocoa tree (Theobroma cacao, Sterculiaceae) during the course of cocoa processing.
  • the yellowish fat is located in the cotyledons of the cocoa bean and is obtained after fermentation, roasting, shelling and cleaning of the cocoa nibs by pressing out the resulting cocoa mass.
  • Cocoa butter consists of approx. 97% triglycerides of fatty acids, which on average consist of 25% palmitic acid (Cie), 37% stearic acid (Cis), 34% oleic acid ((9Z)-Cis) and 3% linoleic acid ((9Z, 72Z )- C18) put together. Cocoa butter is characterized by a narrow fatty acid profile. A particularly characteristic feature is a high content (approx. 72-87%) of symmetrical, monounsaturated triacylglycerides, which is responsible for many of the properties of cocoa butter.
  • Symmetrical, monounsaturated triglycerides are understood to mean those triglycerides which carry an ester with an unsaturated fatty acid in the 2-position of the glycerol and an ester with a saturated fatty acid in each of the 1 and 3 positions.
  • Examples of such triglycerides are 2-oleodipalmitin (POP), palmito-2-oleostearin (POS), 2-oleodistearin (SOS).
  • symmetrical, doubly unsaturated triglycerides such as 2-palmitodiolein (OPO)
  • unsymmetrical, doubly unsaturated triglycerides such as 1-palmitodiolein (POO)
  • Cocoa butter is solid at room temperature and melts at 28-36°C.
  • Cocoa butter In pharmacy, among other things, the determination of the melting point is used to identify cocoa butter. Cocoa butter must first be pre-treated in accordance with the regulations of the German Pharmacopoeia so that the stable ß-modification, which melts between 31 °C and 35 °C, is formed.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the shell surrounding the particle core comprises cocoa butter as encapsulation material (b).
  • the shell surrounding the particle core can also comprise at least one wax, particularly preferably at least one animal and/or vegetable wax, as the hydrophobic encapsulation material (b).
  • the waxes are also among the fat components.
  • Waxes which have a melting range above 25°C, preferably from 25 to 80°C, more preferably from 26 to 70°C, even more preferably from 27 to 60°C and very particularly preferably from 28 to 50°C proved to be particularly suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Substances are referred to as waxes which have the following properties: kneadable at 20 °C, solid to brittle hard, coarse to finely crystalline, translucent to opaque, but not vitreous; melting above 40 °C without decomposition, slightly above the melting point, relatively low viscosity and not stringy, consistency and solubility strongly dependent on temperature, can be polished under slight pressure.
  • Waxes differ from similar synthetic or natural products (e.g. resins, plastic masses, metal soaps, etc.) mainly in that they are usually between 50 and 90 °C, in exceptional cases up to around 200 °C, in the molten, low-viscosity state and are practically free of ash-forming compounds.
  • Waxes are to be understood in particular as meaning the esters of long-chain fatty acids with long-chain fatty alcohols.
  • waxes are in particular the esters of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids with C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • Particularly suitable representatives of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids and C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols have already been mentioned as examples in the previous sections.
  • Particularly suitable natural animal and/or vegetable waxes for the purposes of the present invention are therefore preferably selected from fruit waxes, shell waxes, grass waxes, flower waxes and/or leaf waxes, beeswax or other insect waxes, spermaceti, wool wax (lanolin) and/or rump fat, each have a melting range above 45°C.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the shell surrounding the particle core comprises at least one animal and/or vegetable wax as the encapsulation material (b), which is preferably selected from the group consisting of berry waxes, apple wax, lemon peels )wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, jasmine wax, rose wax, carnauba wax, beeswax and/or wool wax (lanolin). Percentage by weight of the encapsulation materials (b) in the shell
  • the shell surrounding the core can optionally also include other optional ingredients.
  • the shell can additionally include at least one release agent.
  • the release agent serves to prevent the coated particles from sticking or caking together in the production process and/or during storage and/or, if appropriate, during mixing with other preparations.
  • Suitable release agents can be selected, for example, from the group of inorganic, pulverulent release agents selected from graphite, talc (magnesium silicate) and mica.
  • the particulate components can contain silicon dioxide as an additional release agent for particularly effective prevention of sticking or caking of the particles.
  • silicon dioxide amorphous and/or pyrogenic silicon dioxide can be used as an additional release agent, which is sold, for example, under the trade name Syloid 244FP by Grace GmbH or Aerosil by Evonik.
  • the particulate components can be mixed directly with silicon dioxide, in particular as long as the particles are not yet completely dried.
  • the shell does not consist exclusively of encapsulation material (b) and, if appropriate, separating agents, it can optionally also contain other ingredients such as colorants and fragrances or auxiliaries.
  • Plasticizers in the shell of the particles for better elasticity of the shell.
  • Plasticizers preferably come from the group of dialkyl phthalate, in particular diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, glycerol triacetate and/or the polyethylene glycols.
  • the agents according to the invention contain coated particles whose shell surrounding the particle core additionally contains at least one disintegrating agent.
  • Disintegrants of this type are also frequently described in the literature as disintegrants or disintegrants. Substances of this type are incorporated into the polymer coating in order to shorten their decomposition times. This disintegration or this explosion occurs in particular as a result of an increase in volume as a result of the ingress of water (swelling).
  • Such disintegrants or disintegration accelerators are understood as meaning auxiliaries which ensure the rapid disintegration of shaped bodies in water.
  • cellulose-based disintegrants are used as preferred disintegrants. Suitable celluloses consist of about 500 to 5000 glucose units and consequently have average molar masses of 50,000 to 500,000.
  • cellulose derivatives which can be obtained from cellulose by polymer-analogous reactions can also be used as cellulose-based disintegrants.
  • Such chemically modified celluloses include, for example, products from esterifications or etherifications in which hydroxy hydrogen atoms have been substituted.
  • celluloses in which the hydroxy groups have been replaced by functional groups that are not bonded via an oxygen atom can also be used as cellulose derivatives.
  • the group of cellulose derivatives includes, for example, alkali celluloses, carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), cellulose esters and ethers, and aminocelluloses.
  • CMC carboxymethyl cellulose
  • the cellulose derivatives mentioned are preferably not used as the sole cellulose-based disintegrants, but are used in a mixture with cellulose.
  • the content of cellulose derivatives in these mixtures is preferably below 50% by weight, particularly preferably below 20% by weight, based on the cellulose-based disintegrant. Pure cellulose which is free from cellulose derivatives is particularly preferably used as a cellulose-based disintegrant.
  • Suitable carboxymethyl cellulose derivatives are marketed, for example, under the trade name Tylopur by Clariant or Ac-Di-Sol by FMC.
  • Microcrystalline cellulose can be used as a further cellulose-based disintegrant or as part of this component.
  • This microcrystalline cellulose is obtained by partial hydrolysis of celluloses under conditions which attack and completely dissolve only the amorphous areas (about 30% of the total cellulose mass) of the celluloses, but leave the crystalline areas (about 70%) intact.
  • Subsequent deaggregation of the microfine celluloses produced by the hydrolysis yields the microcrystalline celluloses, which have primary particle sizes of about 5 ⁇ m and can be compacted, for example, to give granules with an average particle size of 200 ⁇ m.
  • Suitable microcrystalline cellulose is commercially available, for example, under the trade names Emcocel from JRS Pharma or Avicel from FMC.
  • starch can preferably also be used as a disintegrating agent within the scope of the present invention.
  • the starch that can be used according to the invention is usually obtained from vegetable raw materials such as rice, soya, potatoes or corn.
  • Starch can be used unmodified or as modified starch analogous to cellulose.
  • Particularly preferred starch modifications result in esterification and etherification reactions, in particular the ethers obtained from reactions with hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • a starch modification which is particularly suitable according to the invention is the mixture of sodium carboxymethyl starch and sodium glycol starch, which is sold under the trade name Explotab by the company JRS Pharma.
  • Disintegrants based on corn starch are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • Suitable, modified corn starches are available, for example, under the trade names Glycolys from Roquette or Starch 1500 from Colorcon.
  • disintegrants made from crosslinked, water-insoluble polyvinylpyrrolidinone represent another class of disintegrants that are particularly suitable according to the invention.
  • the advantageous crosslinking of this PVP modification is based primarily on entanglements and entanglements of the individual polymer strands in one another.
  • a PVP-based disintegrant which is particularly preferred according to the invention is sold under the trade name Kollidon CL by BASF.
  • the shells according to the invention surrounding the particle core can contain the decomposition aids in particular in amounts of 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, in each case also based on the total weight of the shell .
  • the agents according to the invention contain coated particles whose shell surrounding the particle core additionally contains at least one pore-forming agent.
  • Pore formers are incorporated into the coating and cause pores to form in the surface of the coating: This leads to an increase in the diffusion rate into the polymer shell for hydrophilic substances, especially water.
  • polyvinylpyrrolidinone sugar and sugar alcohols such as lactose, sucrose, sorbitol and mannitol, polyethylene glycols with less than 600 ethylene oxide units and cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose and mixtures thereof are particularly suitable as pore formers.
  • Pore formers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are polyvinylpyrrolidinones (PVP), which are sold, for example, under the trade name Kollidon by BASF.
  • the proportion by weight of the pore formers in the dried casing is between 0.05 and 20% by weight, in particular between 0.1 and 10% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the casing.
  • the shell surrounding the particle core - based on the total weight of the shell - at least 50 wt .-%, preferably at least 60 wt .-%, more preferably at least 70 wt .-% and particularly preferably at least 80% by weight of fat components (b).
  • the shell surrounding the particle core is at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 70% by weight and particularly preferably at least 80 wt.
  • the shell surrounding the particle core—based on the total weight of the shell— is at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 70% by weight and particularly preferably at least 80% by weight of Ci2-C3o fatty acid triglyceride(s), in particular cocoa butter.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the shell surrounding the particle core - based on the total weight of the shell - is at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 70% by weight and particularly preferably at least 80% by weight of C12-C30 fatty acid triglyceride(s), in particular cocoa butter.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the shell surrounding the particle core - based on the total weight of the shell - is at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 70% by weight and particularly preferably at least 80% by weight of waxes, ie the esters of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids with C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the particulate component(s) contained in the agent according to the invention comprises particles with a core and a shell surrounding this core. It is possible and according to the invention if the core also comprises one or more other shells in addition to the shell described above, so that the natural dyes are encapsulated not just once, but multiple times. However, the advantageous effects described above could be observed in particular when the shell that contains the hydrophobic encapsulation material also represents the outer shell at the same time. For this reason it has turned out to be preferred if each particle of the particulate component comprises precisely one core and one shell. To a good one In order to ensure storage stability and nevertheless rapid dissolution before use, it has also proven to be preferable if the thickness of the shell is not too small and not too large.
  • the agent according to the invention contains at least one particulate material which - based on the total weight of the particulate material - consists of 30 to 70% by weight of core and 30 to 70% by weight of shell, with add the weight percentages of core and shell to 100% by weight.
  • the proportions by weight of the core and the shell can be determined by the respective amounts used in the production of the core and the shell.
  • a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one particulate component which - based on the total weight of the particulate component - consists of 30 to 70% by weight core and 30 to 70% by weight -% consists of shell, the weight percentages of core and shell adding up to 100% by weight.
  • the particulate component - based on the total weight of the particulate component -
  • the particulate component can also - based on the total weight of the particulate component -
  • the agent according to the invention preferably contains the particulate component(s) in specific quantity ranges. It is therefore advantageous if the agent--based on its total weight--contains one or more particulate components in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 15.0% by weight preferably from 0.5 to 10.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains one or more particulate components in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 15% by weight, based on its total weight 0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight.
  • the encapsulation agents and, if appropriate, the release agents and the auxiliaries are mixed homogeneously and sprayed as an aqueous dispersion onto the powder particles of at least one natural dye using fluidized bed technology (e.g. using the bottom spray method with or without the use of Wurster or the tangential spray method) and in an air stream dried at the same time so that an even, almost 100% layer encloses the powder particles.
  • fluidized bed technology e.g. using the bottom spray method with or without the use of Wurster or the tangential spray method
  • coatings with the above-mentioned film materials are also possible using spouted bed technology.
  • Extrusion technology and the top spray process are another way of encasing the particle cores with or made of natural dyes.
  • a basic mass is produced from the natural dye(s) and, if necessary, other auxiliary substances.
  • the granules are then dried at a product temperature of 20 to 60 °C and then, after prior heating to 40 - 80 °C, using the fluidized bed process (spray rate preferably equal to about 5 to 20 g/min; spray air pressure preferably equal to about 1.5 to 2.5 bar), the amount of hydrophobic encapsulation material used (based on the amount of granules to be coated) being 0.5 to 90 percent by weight, preferably 30 to 70 percent by weight (based on the total mass of the particulate component). Finally, the product is dried (product temperature max. about 60 °C).
  • Top-spray process The natural color(s) are mixed with any other additives at 15 to 35 °C in a fluidized-bed granulator/coater.
  • the base mass obtained in this way is then tempered (product temperature max. about 55° C.), then granulated (spraying rate preferably equal to about 6 to 20 g/min; spraying air pressure preferably equal to about 0.25 to 2.5 bar) and then coated, the amount of hydrophobic encapsulation material used (based on the amount of granules to be coated) being 0.5 to 90 percent by weight, preferably 30 to 70 percent by weight (based on the total mass of the particulate component).
  • the product is then finally dried (maximum product temperature around 60 °C).
  • the particulate component comprises particles having a core and a shell surrounding the core.
  • the particle preferably consists of the core and the shell.
  • the agents according to the invention contain coated particles which have an average particle diameter of from 50 to 500 ⁇ m, preferably from 100 ⁇ m to 250 ⁇ m. other components on average
  • the particular advantage of the present invention is the provision of a colorant based on only one component, which contains the natural colorants in storable form. Since the natural dyes are reliably protected from contact with water by the encapsulation, the agents can also contain larger amounts of water. It is therefore preferred if the composition - based on its total weight - has a water content of 50 to 95% by weight, preferably 60 to 95% by weight, more preferably 70 to 95% by weight and very particularly preferably 80 to 95% by weight.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it has a water content of 50 to 95% by weight, preferably 60 to 95% by weight, more preferably 70 to 95% by weight, based on its total weight % and most preferably from 80 to 95% by weight.
  • the agents according to the invention do not have to be packaged in the form of a powder, they can be preserved by adding a conventional preservative, and the time-consuming preservation by irradiation is not necessary.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one preservative.
  • aromatic alcohols such as phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyisopropanol
  • aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde
  • glutaraldehyde parabens for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben 1,2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as 1 ,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,2-hexadecanediol, formaldehyde-releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea
  • Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones, such as methylchloroisothiazolinone / methylisothiazolinone, triclosan, triclocarban, iodopropynylbutylcarbamate, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, chlorhexidine digluconate and chlorhexidine acetate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, Methyldibromoglutaronitrile, inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and borates, bisulfites, cationic substances such as quaternium-15, benzalkonium chloride,
  • Benzethonium chloride polyaminopropylbiguanide, organic acids and their physiologically tolerable salts such as
  • Citric Acid Lactic Acid, Acetic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid
  • Active ingredients with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione, piroctonolamine, antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), propyl gallate, t-butylhydroquinone, complexing agents such as EDTA and its derivatives, HEDTA and its derivatives, etidronic acid and their salts.
  • antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), propyl gallate, t-butylhydroquinone
  • complexing agents such as EDTA and its derivatives, HEDTA and its derivatives, etidronic acid and their salts.
  • the emulsion of the molten encapsulation materials (b) can be supported by using one or more surfactants in the agent according to the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contain at least one surface-active substance, such surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or emulsifiers depending on the field of application: they are preferably selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one surfactant.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one anionic surfactant.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and bis to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • the anionic surfactants are used in proportions of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use composition.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one zwitterionic surfactant.
  • Preferred zwitterionic surfactants are betaines, N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • Preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids.
  • Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, as cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2-Ci8-acylsarcosine.
  • the agents contain other non-ionogenic surface-active substances.
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides and alkylene oxide adducts with fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • Agents suitable according to the invention can also contain cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquat type and the amidoamine type.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides and the imidazolium compounds known by the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • Other cationic surfactants that can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolyzates.
  • a compound from the group of amidoamines that is particularly suitable according to the invention is the stearamidopropyldimethylamine commercially available under the name Tegoamid® S 18.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of Fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • the cationic surfactants are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in proportions of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the agent as a whole.
  • the surfactants are preferably used in proportions of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the agents.
  • the agents according to the invention can also contain at least one solvent.
  • Particularly suitable solvents can be selected from the group consisting of 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, 2-phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, 1 ,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, 2-phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol.
  • the solvents are preferably used in proportions of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the agents.
  • the agents according to the invention can also contain at least one polymeric thickener as a further optional component.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one polymeric thickener.
  • Acrylamides Copolymer Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Acrylates/Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Ceteth -20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copo
  • the polymeric thickener(s) are preferably used in proportions of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the compositions.
  • the agents according to the invention can also contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example nonionic polymers (such as vinylpyrrolidinone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone and vinylpyrrolidinone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes); cationic polymers (such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes having quaternary groups, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone quaternized with diethyl sulfate, vinylpyrrolidinone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol); zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers (such as acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride/acrylate
  • methyl cellulose hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose
  • starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins
  • clays such as bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as B.
  • polyvinyl alcohol polyvinyl alcohol
  • structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid
  • hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils
  • Protein hydrolysates especially elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolysates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolysates
  • fiber structure-improving active ingredients in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose); defoamers (such as silicones, preferably dimethicone); dyes for coloring the agent; anti-dandruff agents (such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole); Light stabilizers or UV blockers (especially derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines); Active ingredients (such as pan
  • the user is able to dye his hair using only one coloring component with natural dyes.
  • a second subject of the present invention is therefore a method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps
  • a second subject matter of the present invention is therefore a method for dyeing keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps in the order given:
  • step (1) of the method according to the invention the agent of the first subject matter of the invention is heated to a temperature which is above the melting point of the hydrophobic encapsulation material (b).
  • a temperature which is above the melting point of the hydrophobic encapsulation material (b) can be done, for example, by placing the agent, including the packaging in which it was provided (e.g. a plastic bottle or a glass bottle), in a water bath, the water bath being heated to the temperature necessary for the melting process of the hydrophobic encapsulation material is.
  • hydrophobic encapsulation material is, for example, cocoa butter, which in its ß-modification has a melting point of 31 to 35 °C
  • the length of time the composition is heated to this elevated temperature depends on the amount of particulate matter on the composition and also on the size of the particles.
  • a temperature control period that is comfortable for the user is, for example, a period of 3 to 30 minutes, preferably 5 to 15 minutes.
  • the agent can optionally be homogenized after or during the melting of the hydrophobic encapsulating material.
  • the homogenization is preferably carried out by stirring or shaking the agent. After stirring/shaking, the agent can be further heated again.
  • the agent is applied to the keratinic fibers or the hair (step (3)), left to act (step (4)) and then the agent is rinsed off (step (5)) ).
  • the application can be done, for example, with the gloved hand or with the help of a brush or an adjette.
  • the subsequent exposure time on the keratin fibers is preferably 5 to 45 minutes. Rinsing can be done either with just water or with the help of a surfactant-containing foaming solution.
  • Steps (1) to (5) are preferably carried out within a period of 180 minutes, preferably 120 minutes.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des produits destinés à teindre des fibres de kératine, en particulier des cheveux humains, contenant au moins un constituant particulaire possédant un noyau de particule et une enveloppe entourant le noyau, (a) le noyau comprenant au moins un colorant naturel et (b) l'enveloppe comprenant au moins un matériau d'encapsulation hydrophobe.
PCT/EP2021/064624 2020-08-19 2021-06-01 Teintures pour fibres de kératine comprenant des colorants naturels encapsulés WO2022037814A1 (fr)

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DE102020210502.2A DE102020210502A1 (de) 2020-08-19 2020-08-19 Färbemittel für keratinische Fasern mit verkapselten Naturfarbstoffen
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WO2017095138A1 (fr) * 2015-11-30 2017-06-08 Gil Medical Center Complexe de nanoparticules lipidiques contenant de la curcumine comprenant des ginsénosides
US20190167557A1 (en) * 2017-12-04 2019-06-06 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Cosmetic composition for treatment of keratinous fibers
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