WO2022033415A1 - 针织面料及其用途 - Google Patents

针织面料及其用途 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022033415A1
WO2022033415A1 PCT/CN2021/111432 CN2021111432W WO2022033415A1 WO 2022033415 A1 WO2022033415 A1 WO 2022033415A1 CN 2021111432 W CN2021111432 W CN 2021111432W WO 2022033415 A1 WO2022033415 A1 WO 2022033415A1
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yarn
knitted fabric
layer
fabric
weight
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PCT/CN2021/111432
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English (en)
French (fr)
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史春丽
张晴
土仓弘至
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东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
东丽株式会社
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Priority to CN202180029999.0A priority Critical patent/CN115398051B/zh
Publication of WO2022033415A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022033415A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a knitted fabric, in particular to a knitted fabric that is not easy to see water traces after wetting or sweating.
  • Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2011-226001 discloses a perspiration-proof fabric, which is formed of polyester fiber, has a concave-convex structure, and has a single-sided waterproof treatment on the surface, so that the fabric not only has an excellent anti-perspiration effect, but also There is no stickiness.
  • such fabrics are easy to fall off after repeated washing, and the washing durability is poor.
  • patent document CN105734772A discloses an anti-penetration woven fabric and a production method, although more than 60% by weight of the yarns forming the woven fabric are anti-penetration polyester yarns with a titanium dioxide content of 3-7% and a core-sheath structure, However, due to the low total content of titanium dioxide, although the anti-penetration effect and anti-ultraviolet effect are good, it does not solve the problem of water marks.
  • the patent document CN107447531A discloses a preparation process of an anti-perspiration T-shirt.
  • the T-shirt is placed in a water-absorbing quick-drying solution for hydrophilic treatment, and then a waterproof coating is applied on the surface of the T-shirt to achieve anti-perspiration.
  • the waterproof coating on the surface will affect the breathability of the fabric, and the wearing comfort will decrease.
  • the waterproof coating is easy to fall off, and the effect of anti-perspiration will also be weakened.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric with excellent water-repellent effect and excellent durability.
  • a knitted fabric is characterized in that: the knitted fabric contains a yarn A with an inorganic particle content of more than 8.0% by weight, the weight of the yarn A accounts for more than 30% of the total weight of the knitted fabric, and a complete structure of the knitted fabric is included.
  • the yarn A is arranged on one or both sides of the knitted fabric, and the loops formed by the yarn A account for more than 30% of the total loops on the surface on which it is located.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is completely wet with sweat or rain, the color change of the surface where the yarn A is located can reach grade 3 or higher compared to the dry state, and no matter how many times it is washed, it has excellent Water repellent effect. It can be widely used to make shirts, casual wear, sports T-shirts, golf suits, etc.
  • Fig. 1 is the knitting diagram of the variation plain stitch of the present invention.
  • Fig. 2 is the weaving diagram of the double-sided change structure of the present invention.
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a single-layer structure of the present invention.
  • FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of the double-layer structure of the present invention.
  • FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of the three-layer structure of the present invention.
  • the water trace in the present invention refers to the trace after wetting, and may be the trace after wetting, such as rainwater, sweat, tap water, and the like.
  • the water-repellent effect specifically refers to the fact that the surface of the yarn A in the fabric is difficult to see the water-stain, or the water-spot disappears so quickly that it becomes invisible.
  • the knitted fabric contains a yarn A with an inorganic particle content of more than 8.0% by weight, the weight of the yarn A accounts for more than 30% of the total weight of the knitted fabric, and in a complete weave cycle of the knitted fabric, the yarn A is arranged on one or both sides of the knitted fabric, and the loops formed by the yarn A account for more than 30% of the total loops on the face where it is located.
  • Inorganic particles have a scattering effect on incident light, which can hinder the transmission of light and reduce the transmittance of light.
  • the reflective interface inside the fiber can be increased. Even if the fabric is wet with water, the color will not change. There are too many changes.
  • the content of inorganic particles in the yarn A is less than 8.0% by weight, the color change is obvious compared with the dry state, and the water-repellent effect is poor.
  • the yarn A has an inorganic particle content of 8.0 to 20.0% by weight.
  • the yarn A is arranged on one or both sides of the knitted fabric, and the loops formed by the yarn A account for more than 30% of the total loops on the face.
  • the appearance of the traces makes the wearer feel embarrassed.
  • the yarn A is arranged on one or both sides of the knitted fabric, and the loop formed by the yarn A accounts for less than 30% of the total loops on the surface on which it is located, that is, the yarn A is on the surface.
  • the amount of reflected light changes greatly before and after wetting, the color looks darker, and the waterproofing effect is poor.
  • the loops formed by yarn A account for 100% of the total loops on the surface where it is located.
  • the weight of the yarn A accounts for more than 30% of the total weight of the fabric, and when it is mixed with other yarns, it can ensure a good waterproof effect of the fabric, preferably more than 40% of the total weight, more preferably 100% of the total weight.
  • any one side of the knitted fabric can be provided with the yarn A, or both sides of the knitted fabric can be provided with the yarn A, which is not particularly limited.
  • a suitable surface can be selected as the surface of the garment as required. Use on the near skin side.
  • the structure of the knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be a single-sided structure with a single-layer weave, such as single-sided plain weave, single-sided puck, etc. It can also be a multi-layer structure of single-sided weave, such as single-sided plating weave, etc. It can be a double-layer structure with double-sided weave, such as double-sided rib, double-sided cotton wool, double-sided change structure, etc.; it can also be a multi-layer structure with double-sided weave, such as double-sided air layer structure (sandwich weave or five-sided weave) Wait. In the case of a double-layered structure with a double-sided weave, a connection method in which the lining is not exposed in the surface weave, such as connection in the form of a tuck, is preferred.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention has a multi-layer structure, including layer a and layer b, layer a and layer b are adjacent, and the loops formed by yarn A on layer a account for more than 30% of the total loops on the surface where it is located;
  • the layer b of the knitted fabric contains yarn B with an inorganic particle content of less than 8.0% by weight, and the weight of the yarn B accounts for less than 70% of the total weight of the knitted fabric. This is because with the increase of the inorganic particle content, the yarn cost also increases.
  • the inorganic particle content of the yarn B in the layer b is low, it may affect the waterproof effect, but the yarn B is arranged in the knitting The b layer of the fabric, taken together, the fabric not only easily obtains an excellent waterproof effect, but also effectively saves costs.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention has a multi-layer structure, including a layer a, the layer a is located on the outermost side of the knitted fabric along the thickness direction, and the loops formed by the yarn A on the layer a account for more than 30.0% of the total loops on the surface; And the ratio between the coverage area of the yarn on the layer a and the total coverage area of the knitted fabric is K, and 0.5 ⁇ K ⁇ 1.
  • the coverage area of yarns on layer a refers to the area of all yarns on layer a. All the yarns on layer a can be all looped, looped and tucked, looped and floating, or looped, tucked, and floating combined state.
  • the total coverage area of knitted fabric refers to the area photographed under the KEYENCE VHX-2000C microscope (total photographing area) minus the photographing area of the mesh part.
  • the ratio K between the coverage area of the yarn on the layer a and the total coverage area of the knitted fabric represents the coverage degree of the layer a; the larger the k value, the better the coverage degree.
  • the ratio K is preferably 0.50 ⁇ K ⁇ 1, more preferably 0.80 ⁇ K ⁇ 1, further preferably 0.90 ⁇ K ⁇ 1, most preferably 0.95 ⁇ K ⁇ 1.
  • the type of inorganic particles forming the yarn A is not particularly limited, preferably one or more of titanium dioxide, aluminum oxide, antimony trisulfide, zirconium oxide, cadmium red, calcium oxide, carbon (such as carbon black, graphite, etc.) .
  • the inorganic particles here can also be colored particles, such as white, red, blue, black, and the like.
  • titanium dioxide is more preferable because it has a good scattering effect on light, and has good properties such as safety, stability, and dispersibility.
  • the fiber raw material for forming the yarn A of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be ordinary polyester (PET), modified polyester, polyamide, viscose, and the like.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the fibers is also not particularly limited, and may be a circle, a triangle, a cross, or the like.
  • the composite form of the fiber can be core-sheath, multi-layer, etc., such a composite form can maximize the content of inorganic particles.
  • the inorganic particles are mainly concentrated in the core, which is conducive to weaving and can reduce the friction between the yarn and the weaving equipment, so it is preferred.
  • the multi-layer structure that is, the multi-layer composite structure, the inorganic particles are mainly concentrated in the middle layer, and the reflection effect on light is very good, so it is preferred.
  • Yarn A may be filament multifilament or spun yarn.
  • the form of the filament and multifilament is not particularly limited, and may be FDY, DTY, or the like, and DTY is preferred.
  • the fineness of the filament multifilament formed by the core-sheath structure or the multilayer structure is not particularly limited, but is preferably 30 to 200 dtex. When the fineness is lower than 30dtex, the yarn is thinner. Due to the high content of inorganic particles, it is easy to cause low yarn strength and yarn breakage. When the fineness is higher than 200dtex, the yarn is thicker and the fabric is rougher. , lacks subtlety. More preferably, the fineness of the filament multifilament formed by the core-sheath structure or the multilayer structure is 50 to 170 dtex.
  • the spinning method of the staple fibers is also not particularly limited, and may be compact spinning, vortex spinning, siro spinning, siro compact spinning, etc., and vortex spinning is preferred.
  • the twist of the spun yarn is preferably 300 to 1000 T/m, and the fineness is preferably 80 to 21 N.S. When the fineness is lower than 80, the yarn is thinner and the strength is low; when the fineness is higher than 21, the yarn is thicker and the fabric style is rough. More preferably, the fineness of the spun yarn is 60 to 32 N.S.
  • all of the yarns A are preferably used for knitting.
  • the types of other yarns are not particularly limited, and can be ordinary polyester (PET), modified polyester, polyamide, viscose, cotton, etc., preferably all-matte ordinary polyester Esters (PET).
  • the surface on which the yarn A is located is attached with a hydro-evolution resin.
  • a water-emitting resin, a water-absorbing resin, a softening resin, etc. can be selected for processing in the post-finishing process as required.
  • the water-emitting resin can be a fluorocarbon resin, a hydrocarbon resin, etc., such as C8 fluorine-containing, C6 fluorine-containing, aliphatic or silicone-based, or non-fluorine-based.
  • the water-absorbent resin can be polyester resin, acrylic resin, etc. When the water-absorbent resin is selected for processing in the finishing, it can impart water absorption to the fabric and also have the effect of waterproofing.
  • the soft resin may be a silicone-based resin or the like.
  • the water-wet state is compared with the dry state, and it is visually judged by the gray sample card for evaluating discoloration.
  • the effect is level 3 or higher.
  • the water-wet state here means that after the sample is placed in the standard atmospheric pressure for 24 hours, 0.2ml of water is dropped on the surface of the yarn A, and the water is diffused until it is completely absorbed by the fabric (no obvious liquid water droplets, That is, when there is no specular reflection).
  • the dry state here refers to the state after the sample is placed in standard atmospheric pressure for 24 hours of humidity control and equilibrium.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention drop 0.2 ml of water on the surface where the yarn A is located, and observe after standing for 2 minutes. If the water droplets do not spread on the fabric and are in the form of dewdrops, the waterproof effect of the fabric is grade 5; If the water droplets spread on the fabric, visually judge the waterproof effect of the fabric through the gray sample card used for evaluating discoloration.
  • test method of each parameter involved in the present invention is as follows:
  • the test method is as follows:
  • test the remaining 4 test samples respectively, obtain 5 sets of data in total, take the average value of 5 times as the evaluation result of the waterproof effect of the sample, and record the sample as waterproof after 10 times of washing. Trace effect evaluation result L10.
  • x the number of loops in the loop structure formed by yarn A on this face
  • the sample is in a vertical state with the light source.
  • the model of the microscope is KEYENCE VHX-2000C.
  • the light source selects transmitted light irradiation, and the magnification of the microscope is usually 50 times, which can be selected according to the size of the actual pattern.
  • the selection standard is that at least one complete tissue cycle can be photographed. With the zero position at 30°, an observation is made and a photograph of the observed fabric is taken.
  • step 2 Keep the position of the fabric in step 2 still, and switch the light source to reflective light source. Adjust the brightness dial to the position of 65° with the zero position of the light source knob, click "VHX menu ⁇ ⁇ measure ⁇ annotation ⁇ measure area ⁇ measure ⁇ annotation ⁇ free curve in the built-in program of the microscope, and draw along the outer edge of the edge line. After the area of the surface yarn is calculated, check the batch measurement, and directly read the coverage area S of the surface yarn on the device.
  • the core-sheath composite fiber has a PET composition containing 9.4 wt % titanium dioxide particles in its core, and a PET composition containing 2.4 wt % titanium dioxide particles in its sheath, and the area ratio of the core to the sheath is 4:1.
  • the content of inorganic particles in the yarn B was 2.5% by weight, and the single-layer structure knitted fabric with a grammage of 110 g/m 2 was obtained.
  • the specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the core-sheath composite PET DTY of 56dtex/36f is selected as yarn A, wherein the core of the core-sheath composite fiber is a PET composition containing 15% by weight of titanium dioxide particles, and the sheath portion is a PET composition containing 2.5% by weight of titanium dioxide particles, and the rest are implemented in the same way
  • Example 1 a single-layer structure knitted fabric with a grammage of 110 g/m2 of the present invention was obtained, and the specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the fiber cross section of multi-layer composite DTY yarn A is a multi-layer concentric structure, and the number of layers is 3 layers.
  • the inner layer is the outer layer, the middle layer and the inner layer in sequence; the content of titanium dioxide particles in the outermost layer is 2.5% by weight, the content of titanium dioxide particles in the middle layer and the inner layer is 15%, and the area of the outermost layer accounts for the total area of the yarn section.
  • 165dtex/36f core-sheath composite PET DTY is selected as yarn A
  • 165dtex/36f dull ordinary round PET DTY is used as yarn B
  • the core of core-sheath composite DTY is a PET composition containing 9.4% by weight of aluminum oxide particles
  • the sheath part is a PET composition containing 2.4% by weight of aluminum oxide particles
  • a hydrophobic resin is added during the post-finishing padding process, so that the surface of the yarn A is attached to the hydrophobic resin.
  • Table 1 the specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the section of yarn A is PET DTY with an ordinary circular section, and the section contains 0.3% by weight of titanium dioxide particles.
  • Example 8 Select 56dtex/36f core-sheath composite PET DTY as yarn A, 152dtex/36f dull ordinary circular PET DTY as yarn B, adjust the weaving process so that yarn A accounts for 25% of the weight of the fabric, and the rest are implemented in the same way
  • Example 8 a double-layer structure knitted fabric with a ratio K of 0.33 and a gram weight of 210 g/m 2 of the present invention was obtained.
  • the specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • Example 4 It can be seen from Example 4 and Example 1 that, under the same conditions, the fabric with the hydrophobic resin attached to the surface of the yarn A is more effective than the fabric with no hydrophobic resin attached to the surface of the yarn A. better than the latter.
  • Example 5 It can be seen from Example 5 and Example 1 that under the same conditions, the fabric with the content of titanium dioxide particles on the surface of yarn A is 12.5% by weight and the fabric with the content of titanium dioxide particles on the surface of yarn A is 8% by weight Compared with the former, the waterproof effect of the former is better than that of the latter.
  • Example 10 It can be seen from Example 10 and Example 9 that, under the same conditions, using yarn B with a fineness of 112 dtex and a fabric with a ratio K of 0.50 compared with a fabric with a yarn B of 125 dtex and a ratio K of 0.45, The former has better waterproof effect than the latter.
  • Example 12 It can be seen from Example 12 and Example 11 that, under the same conditions, using yarn B with a fineness of 70 dtex and a fabric with a ratio K of 0.80, compared with a fabric with a yarn B with a fineness of 86 dtex and a ratio K of 0.65, the former The waterproof effect is better than the latter.
  • Example 14 It can be seen from Example 14 and Example 13 that, under the same conditions, using yarn B with a fineness of 62 dtex and a fabric with a ratio K of 0.90 compared with a fabric with a yarn B with a fineness of 66 dtex and a ratio K of 0.85, the former The waterproof effect is better than the latter.
  • Example 15 and Example 14 It can be seen from Example 15 and Example 14 that, under the same conditions, using yarn B with a fineness of 59 dtex and a fabric with a ratio K of 0.95, compared with a fabric with a yarn B of 62 dtex and a ratio K of 0.90, the former's The waterproof effect is better than the latter.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

一种针织面料及其用途，针织面料中含有无机粒子含量8.0重量％以上的纱线A，纱线A的重量占针织面料总重量的30％以上，并且在针织面料的一个完全组织循环内，纱线A设置在针织面料的一面或者两面上，且由纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的30％以上，该针织面料，即使在被汗水或者雨水完全淋湿的情况下，相对于干燥状态，纱线A所在面的颜色变化也能达到3级以上，而且无论洗涤多少次，都具有优良的防水迹效果，可广泛用于制作衬衫、休闲服、运动T恤、高尔夫服等。

Description

针织面料及其用途 技术领域
本发明涉及一种针织面料，具体涉及一种湿润或出汗后，不易看出水迹的针织面料。
背景技术
当今社会，消费者对于服装的舒适性和功能性有了更高的要求。由于针织面料优异的舒适性，得到了人们广泛的认可。无论是商务、休闲还是运动领域，针织面料的应用范围也越来越广泛。但是夏天的时候，由于室外的温度比较高，人们很容易出汗，腋窝、后背等部位更容易出现汗渍斑，非常不美观。这对于喜欢高级运动又比较在意美感的人们来说，是非常讨厌的。
为了解决上述问题，人们进行了很多研究。如日本专利文献特开2011-226001中公开了一种汗渍防止面料，该面料由聚酯纤维形成，具有凹凸结构，且表面进行了单面防水处理，使得面料不但具有优越的防汗渍效果，而且不会出现发粘感。但是这样的面料多次洗涤后防水剂容易脱落，洗涤耐久性不良。
又如，专利文献CN105734772A中公开了一种防透机织物及生产方法，虽然形成该机织物的60重量％以上的纱线为二氧化钛含量3～7％、芯鞘结构的防透涤纶纱线，但是由于其中二氧化钛总含量较低，虽然防透效果和抗紫外线效果都不错，并没有解决出现水迹的问题。
再如，专利文献CN107447531A中公开了一种防汗渍T恤的制备工 艺，首先将T恤放置在吸水速干溶液中进行亲水处理，然后在T恤表面涂覆防水涂料，以达到防汗渍的目的。但是表面的防水涂料，会影响面料的透气性，穿着舒适性下降，而且，经过多次洗涤之后，防水涂料容易掉落，防汗渍的效果也会减弱。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种防水迹效果优越且耐久性极佳的针织面料。
为了实现上述目的，本发明的技术解决方案如下：
一种针织面料，其特征是：所述针织面料中含有无机粒子含量8.0重量％以上的纱线A，纱线A的重量占针织面料总重量的30％以上，并且在针织面料的一个完全组织循环内，纱线A设置在针织面料的一面或者两面上，且由纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的30％以上。
本发明的针织面料，即使在被汗水或者雨水等完全淋湿的情况下，相对于干燥状态，纱线A所在面的颜色变化也能达到3级以上，而且无论洗涤多少次，都具有优良的防水迹效果。可广泛用于制作衬衫、休闲服、运动T恤、高尔夫服等。
附图说明
图1为本发明的变化平针组织编织图。
图2为本发明的双面变化组织编织图。
图3为本发明的单层结构示意图。
图4为本发明的双层结构示意图。
图5为本发明的三层结构示意图。
具体实施方式
一般而言，当面料润湿时，由于水的折射率远大于空气的折射率，光线透过面料时透射率发生改变，反射率降低，水迹变得明显。本发明的水迹是指湿润后的痕迹，可以是雨水、汗水、自来水等湿润后的痕迹。防水迹效果具体是指面料中纱线A的所在面很难看出水迹，或出现水迹后很快消失至看不见。
本发明中，所述针织面料中含有无机粒子含量8.0重量％以上的纱线A，纱线A的重量占针织面料总重量的30％以上，并且在针织面料的一个完全组织循环内，纱线A设置在针织面料的一面或者两面上，且由纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的30％以上。
无机粒子对入射光有散射作用，可以阻碍光的透射，降低光的透过率，当纤维中添加无机粒子后，可以增加纤维内部的反射界面，即使是面料被水润湿，颜色也不会有太大的变化。当纱线A中无机粒子含量不足8.0重量％时，与干燥状态相比颜色变化明显，防水迹效果差。考虑到当纱线A中无机粒子含量大于20.0重量％时，工程通过性有不良的趋势，而且，无机粒子过多的话，有可能出现无机粒子分布不均，产生染色斑的问题，影响面料品质。因此，优选纱线A为无机粒子含量为8.0～20.0重量％的纱线。
在一个完全组织循环内，纱线A设置在针织面料的一面或者两面上，且由纱线A形成的线圈占该面总线圈的30％以上，这是考虑到，面料在穿着过程中，水迹显现让穿着者感觉尴尬，当纱线A设置在针织面料的一面或者两面上，纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的占比小于 30％时，即纱线A在该面上露出少，润湿前后反射光的量变化比较大，颜色看起来就较深，防水迹效果较差。考虑到面料润湿后颜色变化小，优选纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的100％。
本发明中，纱线A的重量占面料总重量的30％以上，在和其他纱线混编的时候，可以保证面料良好的防水迹的效果，优选占总重量的40％以上，更优选为占总重量的100％。
本发明中可以是针织面料的任意单面设置有纱线A，也可以是针织面料的两面都设置有纱线A，没有特别限定，实际使用时，可以根据需要选择合适的面作为服装的表面和近肌肤面使用。
本发明的针织面料构造没有特别限定，可以是单层组织的单面构造，如单面平纹、单面珠地等；可以是单面组织的双层构造，如单面涤盖棉(或棉盖涤)组织等；也可以是单面组织的多层构造，如单面添纱组织等。可以是双面组织的双层构造，如双面罗纹、双面棉毛、双面变化组织等；也可以是双面组织的多层构造，如双面空气层组织(三明治组织或五明治组织)等。如果是双面组织的双层构造时，优选里纱不在表组织中显露的连接方式，比如以集圈的形式进行连接。
作为优选，本发明的针织面料为多层构造，包括层a和层b,层a和层b相邻，且层a上由纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的30％以上；针织面料的层b含有无机粒子含量小于8.0重量％的纱线B，且纱线B的重量占针织面料总重量的70％以下。这是考虑到，随着无机粒子含量的增加，纱线成本也随之增高，因此虽然处于层b的纱线B的无机粒子含量低，可能会影响防水迹效果，但是纱线B设置在针织面料的b 层，综合起来，面料不但容易获得优异的防水迹效果，而且还能有效地节约成本。
作为优选，本发明的针织面料为多层构造，包括层a,层a位于针织面料上沿厚度方向最外侧，层a上由纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的30.0％以上；且层a上纱线的覆盖面积与所述针织面料的总覆盖面积之间的比值为K，且0.5≤K≤1。
其中，层a上纱线的覆盖面积，是指在层a上的所有纱线的面积。在层a上的所有纱线可以是全部为成圈状态，可以是成圈和集圈组合的状态，也可以是成圈和浮线组合的状态，还可以是成圈、集圈和浮线组合的状态。
其中，针织面料的总覆盖面积，是指在KEYENCE基恩士VHX-2000C显微镜下，拍摄到的面积(总拍摄面积)减去网孔部分的拍摄面积。
层a上纱线的覆盖面积与所述针织面料的总覆盖面积之间的比值K表征了层a的覆盖程度；k值越大，表征覆盖程度越好。当比值K＜0.50时，层a上的纱线呈现不能有效覆盖住其他层纱线的趋势，面料的防水迹效果有下降的趋势。因此，比值K优选0.50≤K≤1，更优选0.80≤K≤1，进一步优选0.90≤K≤1，最优选0.95≤K≤1。
形成纱线A的无机粒子种类没有特别限定，优选二氧化钛、三氧化二铝、三硫化二锑、氧化锆、镉红、氧化钙、碳(如炭黑、石墨等)中的一种或几种。当然，这里的无机粒子也可以是着色粒子，如白色、红色、蓝色、黑色等。其中，由于二氧化钛对光的散射效果好，并且具有良好的安全性、稳定性以及分散性等特性，因此作为更优选。
形成本发明的纱线A的纤维原料没有特别限定，可以是普通聚酯(PET)、改性聚酯、聚酰胺、粘胶等。纤维的断面形状也没有特别限定，可以是圆形、三角形、十字形等。纤维的复合形态可以是芯鞘、多层等，这样的复合形态可以实现无机粒子含量的最大化。比如，芯鞘结构，无机粒子主要集中在芯部，有利于编织,可以减少纱线与编织设备的摩擦，因此作为优选。再如，多层结构，即多层复合结构，无机粒子主要集中在中间层，对光的反射效果很好，因此作为优选。
纱线A可以是长丝复丝或短纤纱。长丝复丝的形态没有特别的限定，可以是FDY、DTY等，优选DTY。
芯鞘结构或多层结构形成的长丝复丝的纤度没有特别限定，优选30～200dtex。当纤度低于30dtex时，纱线较细，由于无机粒子的含量较高，容易造成纱线强力较低，出现断纱的现象，当纤度高于200dtex时，纱线较粗，面料就比较粗犷，缺乏细腻感。更优选芯鞘结构或多层结构形成的长丝复丝的纤度为50～170dtex。
短纤维的纺纱方式也没有特别的限定，可以是紧密纺、涡流纺、赛络纺、赛络紧密纺等，优选涡流纺。
短纤纱的捻度优选为300～1000T/m，纤度优选为80～21英支。当纤度低于80英支时，纱线较细，强度低；当纤度高于21英支时，纱线较粗，面料风格比较粗犷。更优选短纤纱的纤度为60～32英支。
本发明中，优选全部使用纱线A进行编织。当纱线A与其他纱线交编时，其他纱线的种类没有特别限定，可以是普通聚酯(PET)、改性聚酯、聚酰胺、粘胶、棉等，优选全消光的普通聚酯(PET)。
作为优选，本发明的针织面料，纱线A所在面上附着有发水树脂。
在制造本发明面料的过程中，可以根据需要在后整理时选择发水树脂、吸水树脂、柔软树脂等进行加工。发水树脂可以是碳氟类树脂、碳氢类树脂等，比如是C8含氟类、C6含氟类、脂肪族或有机硅类，也可以是非氟类。吸水树脂可以是聚酯类树脂、丙烯酸类树脂等，当在后整理时选择吸水树脂进行加工时，赋予面料吸水性的同时，还具有防水迹的效果。柔软树脂可以是有机硅类树脂等。
本发明的针织面料，在纱线A所在面上滴水扩散至水被完全吸收后，即被水润湿状态与干燥状态相比，通过评定变色用灰色样卡目视判断，该面料的防水迹效果为3级以上。这里的被水润湿状态是指试样放置在标准大气压调湿平衡24小时后，再在纱线A所在面上滴0.2ml的水，水扩散至被面料完全吸收时(无明显液状水滴、即没有镜面反射时)的状态。这里的干燥状态是指试样放置在标准大气压调湿平衡24小时后的状态。
本发明的针织面料，在纱线A所在面上滴0.2ml的水，静置2分钟后观察，如果水滴在面料上不扩散且呈露珠状，则该面料的防水迹效果为5级；如果水滴在面料上有扩散，则通过上述评定变色用灰色样卡目视判断面料的防水迹效果。
下面结合实施例及比较例对本发明作进一步说明。
本发明所涉及的各参数的测试方法如下：
(1)防水迹效果
A.未洗涤时样品的防水迹评价结果L0，测试方法如下：
①剪取平整无褶皱10cm×10cm试样6块，放置在温度20±2℃、湿度65±4％的环境下调湿24小时，得到干燥状态的试样；
②随机选取其中的一块作为空白对比样，其余5块作为测试样分别进行试验。将一块测试样平放在试验平台上，纱线A所在面朝上，用滴定管吸入适量的三级水，在滴管口与试样的垂直距离不超过1cm处将0.2ml水轻轻滴在试样上，水滴接触试样至完全扩散吸收(无明显液状水滴，即没有镜面反射时)，2分钟后得到湿润状态的试样；
③将上述湿润状态的测试样与空白对比样，并列放置于标准对色灯箱中，对照GB/T 250-2008评定变色用灰色样卡，对测试样与空白对比样的色差进行评级，并将此评级数值作为该测试样的防水迹效果的级别；④按照同样的方法对余下的4块测试样分别进行试验，一共得到5组数据，取5次的平均值作为本试样的防水迹效果的评价结果，记为本试样未洗涤时防水迹效果评价结果L0。
B.洗涤10次后样品的防水迹评价结果L10，测试方法如下：
①按照GB/T8629-2017《纺织品试验用家庭洗涤和干燥程序》标准进行洗涤10次后悬挂干燥，得到洗涤10次后的试样。剪取平整无褶皱10cm×10cm试样6块，放置在温度20±2℃、湿度65±4％的环境下调湿24小时后；
②随机选取其中的一块作为空白对比样，其余5块作为测试样分别进行试验。将一块测试样平放在试验平台上，纱线A所在面朝上，用滴定管吸入适量的三级水，在滴管口与试样的垂直距离不超过1cm处将0.2ml水轻轻滴在试样上，水滴接触试样至完全扩散吸收(无明显液状水滴， 即没有镜面反射时)，2分钟后得到湿润状态的试样；
③将上述湿润状态的测试样与空白对比样，并列放置于标准对色灯箱中，对照GB/T 250-2008评定变色用灰色样卡，对测试样与空白对比样的色差进行评级，并将此评级数值作为该测试样的防水迹效果的级别；
④按照同样的方法对余下的4块测试样分别进行试验，一共得到5组数据，取5次的平均值作为本试样的防水迹效果的评价结果，记为本试样洗涤10次后防水迹效果评价结果L10。
(2)纱线中无机粒子含量的测定
取相应纱线4g左右，熔融制样，通过X射线荧光光谱仪(生产商：Rigaku，型号：ZSX PrimusⅢ+)测定其中金属元素的含量，然后通过分子式推算出纱线中无机粒子的含量。
(3)纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的比例
①剪取平整无褶皱的15cm×15cm试样1块，拆出面料中不同的纱线，根据纱线中无机粒子含量的测定结果，确定面料中的纱线A及其它纱线；
②在面料的一个完全组织循环的组织结构里，标记好一个组织循环的花高(纵向)和花宽(横向)；
③剪取平整无褶皱的至少包含1个完全组织循环的试样1块，分别确认每种纱线在该面上出现的成圈个数，纱线A所占比例z可根据如下公式算得：
z＝x/y×100％
其中，x：在该面上由纱线A形成的成圈组织的线圈个数
y：该面上一个完全组织循环中成圈组织的线圈总个数
重复取样5次，取5次结果的平均值作为最终结果。
(4)比值K的计算
①准备样品
准备平整无褶皱的针织面料作为试样，尺寸为20cm*20cm，数量为5块。根据本发明的测试方法(2)“纱线中无机粒子含量的测定”结果，确定面料试样中纱线A所在层。
②总覆盖面积S 总的测量和计算
A.确认有无网孔
将一块试样的纱线A所在层的圈柱面向上，自然无张力状态放置在显微镜的透明玻璃板上，样品与光源呈垂直状态，显微镜的型号为KEYENCE基恩士VHX-2000C。光源选择透射光照射，显微镜的倍率，通常情况下选择倍率为50倍，具体可以根据实际花型的大小选择，选择标准为能够拍到至少一个完整组织循环，将亮度盘调至与光源旋钮的零位成30°的位置，进行观察并拍摄观测到的面料的照片。
a1)有网孔时
当面料有网孔时，在显微镜的自带程序点击“VHX菜单→→测量·批注→自动测量面积→手动→开始测量→明度→抽取柱状图(范围选择“255～255”)→下一步→测量结果，直接读取上述照片的总面积S z、以及网孔的面积S w。
按照下列公式计算得到该面料的总覆盖面积S 总，S 总＝S z-S w。
a2)无网孔时
按步骤a1)操作，此时S w＝0，直接读取上述照片的总面积S z，即得到该面料的总覆盖面积S 总，S 总＝S z。
③覆盖面积S的测量
保持步骤②的面料位置不动，光源切换成反射光源照射。将亮度盘调至与光源旋钮的零位成65°的位置，在显微镜的自带程序点击“VHX菜单→→测量·批注→测量面积→测量·批注→自由曲线，沿着边缘线外沿画出该面纱线的面积后，勾选批量测量，在设备上直接读取该面纱线的覆盖面积S。
④比值K的计算
利用公式计算比值K：
K＝S/S 总
重复取样10次，取10次结果的平均值作为最终结果。
实施例1
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，56dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，在单面圆编机上以如附图1所示的变化平针组织进行编织，第1、3、5路配置纱线A，第2、4、6路配置纱线B,使得纱线A在其所在面上的线圈比例为30％，纱线A的重量占面料总重量的30％，得到坯布。然后进行前处理(精炼剂1g/L)、染色(分散染料，130℃*30min)+浴中树脂加工(聚酯类亲水树脂5g/L，50℃*20min)、后整理浸轧加工(抗静电剂1g/L、中和酸1g/L)。其中，芯鞘复合纤维的芯部为含有9.4重量％二氧化钛粒子的PET成分，鞘部为含有2.4重量％二氧化钛粒子的PET成分，芯部和鞘部的面积比为 4：1。其中，纱线B中无机粒子含量为2.5重量％，得到本发明克重为110g/m 2的单层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例2
选用84dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A与84dtex/36f的消光普通圆形DTY PET作为纱线B，调整编织工艺，使得纱线A在其所在面上的线圈比例为50％，纱线A的重量占面料总重量的50％，其余同实施例1，得到本发明克重为150g/m 2的单层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例3
不使用纱线B，纱线A在其所在面上的线圈比例为100％，占面料的重量比例为100％，其余同实施例1，得到本发明克重为110g/m 2的单层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例4
后整理浸轧加工时，将亲水树脂换成发水树脂(非氟类)，使纱线A所在面上附着发水树脂，其余同实施例1，得到本发明克重为110g/m 2的单层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例5
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，其中芯鞘复合纤维的芯部为含有15重量％二氧化钛粒子的PET成分，鞘部为含有2.5重量％二氧化钛粒子的PET成分，其余同实施例1，得到本发明克重为110g/m 2的单层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例6
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，56dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，在双面机上以双面棉毛组织进行编织得到坯布，纱线A在其所在面上的线圈比例为50％，纱线A的重量占面料总重量的50％，其中，纱线B中无机粒子含量为2.5重量％，其余同实施例5，得到本发明比值K为1.00、克重为180g/m 2的双层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例7
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，56dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，在双面机上以双面变化组织进行编织，第3、6、9、12路配置纱线A，第1、2、4、5、7、8、10、12路配置纱线B,得到坯布，纱线A在其所在面上的线圈比例为100％，其余同实施例6，得到本发明比值K为0.90、克重为180g/m 2的双层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例8
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，56dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，在单面圆编机上以涤盖棉组织进行编织得到坯布，纱线A在其所在面上的线圈比例为100％，其余同实施例6，得到本发明比值K为1.00、克重为180g/m 2的双层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例9
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，125dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，调整编织工艺，使得纱线A的重 量占面料总重量的31％，得到坯布，其余同实施例8，得到本发明比值K为0.45、克重为200g/m 2的双层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例10
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，112dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，调整编织工艺，使得纱线A占面料的重量比例为33％，得到坯布，其余同实施例8，得到本发明比值K为0.50、克重为200g/m 2的双层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例11
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，86dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，调整编织工艺，使得纱线A占面料的重量比例为39％，得到坯布，其余同实施例8，得到本发明比值K为0.65、克重为190g/m 2的双层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例12
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，70dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，调整编织工艺，使得纱线A占面料的重量比例为44％，得到坯布，其余同实施例8，得到本发明比值K为0.80、克重为185g/m 2的双层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例13
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，66dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，调整编织工艺，使得纱线A占面料的重量比例为46％，得到坯布，其余同实施例8，得到本发明比值K为0.85、克重为175g/m 2的双层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例14
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，62dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，调整编织工艺，使得纱线A占面料的重量比例为47％，得到坯布，其余同实施例8，得到本发明比值K为0.90、克重为170g/m 2的双层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例15
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，59dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，调整编织工艺，使得纱线A占面料的重量比例为49％，得到坯布，其余同实施例8，得到本发明比值K为0.95、克重为160g/m 2的双层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例16
选用56dtex/36f的多层断面复合PET DTY作为纱线A，不使用纱线B，多层断面复合DTY的纱线A的纤维横断面为多层同心圆构造，层数为3层，由外向里依次为外层、中间层以及里层；最外层中二氧化钛粒子的含量为2.5重量％，中间层以及里层的二氧化钛粒子含量为15％，且最外层的面积占纱线断面总面积的20％重量；纱线A在其所在面上的线圈比例为100％，纱线A的重量占面料总重量的100％，其余同实施例6，得到本发明比值K为1.00、克重为130g/m 2的双层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例17
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A、33dtex/12f的半光普通圆形PET FDY作为纱线B，56dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY 作为纱线C，在双面机上以双面空气层组织进行编织得到坯布，通过调整编织工艺，使得纱线A的重量占面料总重量的40％，纱线B的重量占面料总重量的20％，纱线B中无机粒子含量为2.5重量％，纱线C中无机粒子含量为2.5重量％，其余同实施例8，得到本发明比值K为1.00、克重为190g/m 2的三层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例18
选用40英支芯鞘复合短纤维的PET纱线A与40英支普通圆形短纤维的PET纱线B，其余同实施例1，得到本发明克重为125g/m 2的单层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例19
选用165dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，165dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，芯鞘复合DTY的芯部为含有9.4重量％三氧化二铝粒子的PET成分，鞘部为含有2.4重量％三氧化二铝粒子PET成分，后整理浸轧加工时加入发水树脂，使得纱线A所在面上附着发水树脂，其余同实施例3，得到本发明克重为110g/m 2的单层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
由实施例1～19的针织面料制成的衣服。
比较例1
调整编织工艺，使得纱线A在其所在面上的线圈比例为25％，纱线A的重量占面料总重量的25％，其余同实施例1，得到本发明克重为110g/m 2的针织面料，具体参数见表1。
比较例2
后整理浸轧加工时，将亲水树脂换成发水树脂，使纱线A所在面上附着发水树脂，其余同比较例1，得到本发明克重为110g/m 2的针织面料，具体参数见表1。
比较例3
纱线A的断面为普通圆形断面PET DTY，断面中含有0.3重量％的二氧化钛粒子，其余同实施例3，得到本发明克重为110g/m 2的针织面料，具体参数见表1。
比较例4
选用56dtex/36f的芯鞘复合PET DTY作为纱线A，152dtex/36f的消光普通圆形PET DTY作为纱线B，调整编织工艺，使得纱线A占面料的重量比例为25％，其余同实施例8，得到本发明比值K为0.33、克重为210g/m 2的双层构造针织面料，具体参数见表1。
表1
Figure PCTCN2021111432-appb-000001
根据表1，
(1)由实施例3和实施例1可知，同等条件下，纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的100％且纱线A的重量占面料总重量的100％的面料和纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的30％且纱线A的重量占面料总重量的30％的面料相比，前者的防水迹效果优于后者。
(2)由实施例4和实施例1可知，同等条件下，纱线A所在面上附着有发水树脂的面料与纱线A所在面上没有附着发水树脂的面料相比，前者的防水迹效果优于后者。
(3)由实施例5和实施例1可知，同等条件下，二氧化钛粒子在纱线A所在面的含量为12.5重量％的面料与二氧化钛粒子在纱线A所在面的含量为8重量％的面料相比，前者的防水迹效果优于后者。
(4)由实施例10和实施例9可知，同等条件下，使用纤度112dtex的纱线B、比值K为0.50的面料与使用纤度为125dtex的纱线B、比值K为0.45的面料相比，前者的防水迹效果优于后者。
(5)由实施例12和实施例11可知，同等条件下，使用纤度70dtex的纱线B、比值K为0.80的面料与使用纤度86dtex的纱线B、比值K为0.65的面料相比，前者的防水迹效果优于后者。
(6)由实施例14和实施例13可知，同等条件下，使用纤度62dtex的纱线B、比值K为0.90的面料与使用纤度66dtex的纱线B、比值K为0.85的面料相比，前者的防水迹效果优于后者。
(7)由实施例15和实施例14可知，同等条件下，使用纤度59dtex 的纱线B、比值K为0.95的面料与使用62dtex的纱线B、比值K为0.90的面料相比，前者的防水迹效果优于后者。
(8)由比较例1和实施例1可知，同等条件下，纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的25％且纱线A的重量占面料总重量的25％的面料与纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的30％且纱线A的重量占面料总重量的30％的面料相比，前者的防水迹效果不如后者。
(9)由比较例3和实施例3可知，同等条件下，无机粒子含量为0.3重量％的普通圆形断面的纱线A与无机粒子含量为8重量％芯鞘复合纱线A相比，前者的防水迹效果远不如后者。

Claims (7)

  1. 一种针织面料，其特征是：所述针织面料中含有无机粒子含量8.0重量％以上的纱线A，纱线A的重量占针织面料总重量的30％以上，并且在针织面料的一个完全组织循环内，纱线A设置在针织面料的一面或者两面上，且由纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的30％以上。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述针织面料，其特征是：在针织面料的一个完全组织循环内，纱线A设置在针织面料的一面或者两面上，且由纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的100％。
  3. 根据权利要求1或2所述针织面料，其特征是：针织面料为多层构造，包括层a和层b,层a和层b相邻，且层a上由纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的30％以上；针织面料的层b含有无机粒子含量小于8.0重量％的纱线B，且纱线B的重量占针织面料总重量的70％以下。
  4. 根据权利要求1或2所述针织面料，其特征是：针织面料为多层构造，包括层a,层a位于针织面料上沿厚度方向最外侧，层a上由纱线A形成的线圈占其所在面总线圈的30％以上；且层a上纱线的覆盖面积与所述针织面料的总覆盖面积之间的比值为K，且0.5≤K≤1。
  5. 根据权利要求1或2所述针织面料，其特征是：所述形成纱线A的无机粒子为二氧化钛、三氧化二铝、三硫化二锑、氧化锆、镉红、氧化钙中的一种或几种。
  6. 根据权利要求1或2所述针织面料，其特征是：所述纱线A所在面上附着有发水树脂。
  7. 一种由权利要求1～7中任一项所述针织面料制成的衣服。
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