WO2021239478A1 - Écran solaire comprenant une combinaison de cires, de palmitate de cétyle et d'huile de colza hydrogénée - Google Patents

Écran solaire comprenant une combinaison de cires, de palmitate de cétyle et d'huile de colza hydrogénée Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021239478A1
WO2021239478A1 PCT/EP2021/062838 EP2021062838W WO2021239478A1 WO 2021239478 A1 WO2021239478 A1 WO 2021239478A1 EP 2021062838 W EP2021062838 W EP 2021062838W WO 2021239478 A1 WO2021239478 A1 WO 2021239478A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
inci
preparation
wax
cetyl palmitate
rapeseed oil
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2021/062838
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Lisa JESKE
Christina Japp
Heike VOLBRICH
Stephanie Von Der Fecht
Alexis Goulet-Hanssens
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Publication of WO2021239478A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021239478A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing a) one or more UV filters, b) cetyl palmitate (INCI: Cetyl Palmitate) and c) a wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C. and d) hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil), the weight ratio of cetyl palmitate to wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C being from 0.4 to 2.5, as well as processes and uses of cetyl palmitate and waxes with a melting point of 68-80 ° C in cosmetic sunscreens.
  • a cosmetic preparation containing a) one or more UV filters, b) cetyl palmitate (INCI: Cetyl Palmitate) and c) a wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C. and d) hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil), the weight ratio of cetyl palmitate to wax with a melting point of 68-80 °
  • UVA and UVB filters are summarized in most industrialized countries in the form of positive lists such as Appendix 7 of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • the large number of commercially available sunscreens should not, however, obscure the fact that these prior art preparations have a number of disadvantages.
  • sunscreens are often used in connection with beach vacations, visits to swimming pools, bathing, surfing, diving, paddling or other activities in which the human skin comes into contact with water.
  • film formers are generally added to these preparations.
  • the film formers are usually polymeric compounds based on polyacrylates or polyvinylpyrrolidones, which form a protective film on the skin which is intended to prevent / delay the washing of the UV filters from the skin.
  • a cosmetic preparation containing a) one or more UV filters, b) cetyl palmitate (INCI: Cetyl Palmitate), c) a wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C and d) hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil).
  • a cosmetic preparation containing a) one or more UV filters, b) cetyl palmitate (INCI: Cetyl Palmitate), c) a wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C and d) hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil).
  • the weight ratio of cetyl palmitate to wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C is from 0.4 to 2.5.
  • the sun protection factor SPF on the skin treated with the preparation according to the invention is reached or does not decrease but rather increases on contact with water.
  • This sun protection factor also known as SPW, which is determined on contact with water, is determined using the following method:
  • a method for increasing the sun protection factor SPF when bathing in water characterized in that a sunscreen containing a) cetyl palmitate (INCI: Cetyl palmitate), b) a wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C is used before bathing and c) applying hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil) to the skin in a weight ratio of cetyl palmitate to wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C. of 0.4 to 2.5.
  • a sunscreen containing a) cetyl palmitate (INCI: Cetyl palmitate), b) a wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C is used before bathing and c) applying hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil) to the skin in a weight ratio of cetyl palmitate to wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C. of 0.4 to 2.5.
  • UV filters are all substances that are listed as UV filters in Regulation (EU) No. 866/2014 and Regulation No. 1223/2009 of the EU Commission in Annex VI.
  • the wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C is sunflower wax (INCI: Fleliantus Annuus Seed Cera), Phytowax (INCI: Castor Flydrogenated Cetyl Castor Esters or Flydrogenated Behenyl Castor Esters) Candelilla Wax (INCI: Candelilla Wax) , Cosmetik Wax A4 (INCI: Flydrogenated Vegetable Oil) or Syncrowax (INCI: C18-C36 Acid Triglyceride) can be used.
  • sunflower wax (INCI: Fleliantus Annuus Seed Cera) is particularly preferred.
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation has one or more UV filters selected from the group of the compounds 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), (2- [ -4- (Diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoic acid hexyl ester (INCI: Diethyl-amino Flydroxybenzoyl Flexyl Benzoate) and 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6 - (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) contains.
  • the advantageous according to the invention is 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the use concentration advantageous according to the invention is from 1 to 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the use concentration advantageous according to the invention is from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • embodiments advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that they contain one or more UV filters selected from the group of the compounds 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts; Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid salts; 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts; 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid salts; 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulphonic acid salts; 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol);
  • phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts ethylhexyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl-Butamidotriazone), 4,4 ', 4 "- 3,5-Triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid-tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), titanium dioxide preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts, Ethylhexyl salicylate, dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl-Butamidotriazone), 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid-tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (INCI: Ethylhexyl triazone).
  • the preferred use concentrations according to the invention for phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts are from 0.5 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, the preferred use concentration for ethylhexyl salicylate is from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight .
  • the preparation contains one or more UV filters a) in a total concentration of 1 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously be present in different product forms.
  • the preparation is in the form of a spray.
  • the embodiment advantageous according to the invention is characterized in that the spray formulation
  • Cetyl palmitate (INCI: Cetyl Palmitate) in a concentration of 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, a wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C in a concentration of 0.1 to 2.5% by weight and contains hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil) in a concentration of 0.5 to 3.5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
  • hydrogenated rapeseed oil INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil
  • the preparation according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion spray, according to the invention it preferably has a viscosity of 800 to 2500 mPas, 800, measured with the Rheomat R 123 device, at a temperature of 25 ° C., with measuring body no.1 after 30 Seconds.
  • the preparation can be in the form of an emulsion lotion.
  • the emulsion cetyl palmitate (INCI: Cetyl Palmitate) in a concentration of 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, a wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C. in one concentration from 0.5 to 3.5% by weight and hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil) in a concentration of 0.5% to 3% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the type of emulsion which is advantageous according to the invention is the O / W emulsion.
  • the preparation according to the invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion, it is advantageously characterized according to the invention in that the preparation has one or more O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of the compounds glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, stearate salts, Contains polyglyceryl 3-methylglycose distearate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, potassium cetyl phosphate, polyglyceryl 10 stearate, sodium stearyl glutamate.
  • the weight ratio of cetyl palmitate to wax with a melting point of 68-80 ° C. is from 0.45 to 1.5.
  • the preparation contains xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum).
  • the embodiments preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation contains xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum) in a concentration of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • compositions within the meaning of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerol and / or 4-hydroxyacetophenone.
  • the preparation contains one or more alkanediols from the group of compounds 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-1,3 -propanediol contains.
  • the preparation is free from 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzon), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI Octylmethoxycinnamate), parabens (especially Propyl and butyl paraben), methyl isothiazolinone, chloromethyl isothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers or polyethylene glycol esters.
  • 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester INCI Octylmethoxycinnamate
  • parabens especially Propyl and butyl paraben
  • methyl isothiazolinone chloromethyl isothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation has one or more compounds selected from the group of compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosyl rutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, flavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, b-alanine, panthenol, magnolol, honokiol, tocopheryl acetate, dihydroxyacetone; 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, glycerylglycose, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, vitamin E or its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and / or its salts and / or licochalcone A contains.
  • the preparation has one or more compounds selected from the group of compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoen
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain humectants.
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which give cosmetic preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or reducing the hydration of the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To positively influence the horny layer.
  • TEWL transepidermal water loss
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine soy, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. It is also particularly advantageous to use polymeric To use moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides.
  • hyaluronic acid chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide
  • a fucose-rich polysaccharide which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and z. B.
  • Fucogel®1000 from SOLABIA SA.
  • Moisturizers can also be used advantageously as anti-wrinkle ingredients to protect against skin changes such as those caused by skin changes. B. occur in skin aging can be used.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention can also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, induce or intensify a velvety or silky feel on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like),
  • Pigments which neither mainly have a UV filter nor a coloring effect (such as boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9) and / or talc and / or polyethylene, nylon.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains tapioca starch and / or distarch phosphate.
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation has one or more oils selected from the group of the compounds butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate; Diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, di-C12-13 alkyl tartrates, butyloctyl salicylate, diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate, hydragnated castor oil dimerate, triheptanoin, C12-13 alkyl lactate, C16-17, alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, diethylhexyl caprylide, 2.6 caprylic caprylate - Contains naphthalate, octyldodecanol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl
  • the preparation contains dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and / or C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.
  • the water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as alcohols, in particular those with a low carbon number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol or polyols with a low carbon number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, electrolytes, self-tanners and, in particular, a or more thickeners, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose.
  • the preparation according to the invention has one or more perfumes selected from the group of the compounds limonene, citral, linalool, alpha-isomethylionone, geraniol, citronellol, 2-isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, 2-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate, 3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol, 7-acetyl-1, 1, 3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, adipic acid diester, alpha-amylcinnamaldehyde, alpha
  • Sunscreens contain the usual ingredients in the usual concentrations.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une préparation cosmétique contenant a) un ou plusieurs filtres UV, b) du palmitate de cétyle (INCI : palmitate de cétyle) et c) une cire ayant un point de fusion de 68-80 °C, d) une huile de colza hydrogénée (INCI : huile de colza hydrogénée), le rapport pondéral du palmitate de cétyle à la cire ayant un point de fusion de 68-80 °C étant de 0,4 à 2,5, ainsi que des procédés et des utilisations de palmitate de cétyle et de cires ayant un point de fusion de 68-80 °C dans des agents d'écran solaire cosmétiques.
PCT/EP2021/062838 2020-05-28 2021-05-14 Écran solaire comprenant une combinaison de cires, de palmitate de cétyle et d'huile de colza hydrogénée WO2021239478A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102020206714.7 2020-05-28
DE102020206714.7A DE102020206714A1 (de) 2020-05-28 2020-05-28 Sonnenschutzmittel mit einer Kombination aus Wachsen, Cetylpalmitat und hydriertem Rapsöl

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Publication Number Publication Date
WO2021239478A1 true WO2021239478A1 (fr) 2021-12-02

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PCT/EP2021/062838 WO2021239478A1 (fr) 2020-05-28 2021-05-14 Écran solaire comprenant une combinaison de cires, de palmitate de cétyle et d'huile de colza hydrogénée

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WO (1) WO2021239478A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2023175129A1 (fr) 2022-03-17 2023-09-21 Symrise Ag Additif pour écrans solaires
EP4245291A1 (fr) * 2022-03-17 2023-09-20 Symrise AG Additif pour écrans solaires

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20100183532A1 (en) * 2009-01-16 2010-07-22 Musa Osama M Performance-Boosting UV-Absorbing Compounds
DE102018217130A1 (de) * 2018-10-08 2020-04-09 Beiersdorf Ag Sonnenschutzmittel mit einer Kombination aus Wachsen und Cetylpalmitat

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10101020A1 (de) 2001-01-11 2002-07-18 Clariant Internat Ltd Muttenz Fluorierte Fluorene und ihre Verwendung in Flüssigkristallmischungen
US8662014B1 (en) 2012-08-17 2014-03-04 Alisa F. Harrell Slidably positionable pet bed assembly

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20100183532A1 (en) * 2009-01-16 2010-07-22 Musa Osama M Performance-Boosting UV-Absorbing Compounds
DE102018217130A1 (de) * 2018-10-08 2020-04-09 Beiersdorf Ag Sonnenschutzmittel mit einer Kombination aus Wachsen und Cetylpalmitat

Non-Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
CAS, no. 288254-16-0
CHEMICAL ABSTRACTS, no. 178463-23-5
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 5 April 2019 (2019-04-05), ANONYMOUS: "Day Serum L Sunlit Beige Makeup Base", XP055837544, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/6463817/ Database accession no. 6463817 *

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