WO2021132301A1

WO2021132301A1 - Solid cosmetic

Info

Publication number: WO2021132301A1
Application number: PCT/JP2020/048090
Authority: WO
Inventors: 悠紀小倉
Original assignee: 株式会社資生堂
Priority date: 2019-12-26
Filing date: 2020-12-23
Publication date: 2021-07-01
Also published as: CN114867460B; CN114867460A; JPWO2021132301A1

Abstract

[Problem] To impart luster to a solid cosmetic. [Solution] A solid cosmetic including 50-90 mass% of a non-volatile silicone, at least 3 mass% but less than 20 mass% of a wax, and at most 30 mass% water relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.

Description

Solid cosmetics

The present invention relates to solid cosmetics.

Lip cosmetics such as lipstick and gloss that color the lips, and makeup cosmetics such as cheek (blusher) or eye shadow are cosmetics that exert an important cosmetic effect that completely changes the impression of the user's appearance. Among the parts to which makeup cosmetics are applied, the lips have an extremely thin stratum corneum, almost no sebaceous glands, and a small amount of natural moisturizing factor (NMF component). Therefore, the amount of water in the lips is smaller than that of other skin, and the rate of water evaporation is high, so that the lips are very prone to roughening.

For this reason, make-up cosmetics are about the same color as their color, and the texture such as freshness and luster is one of the major factors in selecting a product. However, among makeup cosmetics, solid materials such as wax and wax are generally prescribed for solid cosmetics, and these solid materials tend to deprive the freshness of solid cosmetics. However, solid materials are essential to maintain the solid form of solid cosmetics.

For example, in Patent Document 1, a composition containing an emulsion containing dimethicone, a linear hydrocarbon brazing agent, and a compatibility agent has good residual strength, long-term adhesion properties, glossiness, stability and adhesion. It is stated that a film having at least one property selected from the comfort of the substance can be attached onto the keratin substance.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2003-321327

However, the composition described in Patent Document 1 only mentions usability such as ease of application, richness of feel, and slippage on the lips, and is non-aqueous, so that freshness is probably not obtained. It is presumed to be. As a result of diligent studies by the present inventor, the amount of wax can be reduced by adding a high amount of non-volatile silicone to the solid cosmetics, and by adding water, the solid cosmetics can be made fresh. It turns out that it can be achieved.

The present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and an object of the present invention is to provide a fresh solid cosmetic product.

The solid cosmetic of the present invention
For the total amount of cosmetics
With 50-90% by mass of non-volatile silicone,
With wax of less than 3 to 20% by mass,
And water is 30% by mass or less.

The solid cosmetic of the present invention preferably further contains an organically modified clay mineral.

The water content is preferably 5 to 30% by mass with respect to the total amount of cosmetics.

The viscosity of the non-volatile silicone is preferably 1 to 300 mPa · s.

The solid cosmetic of the present invention preferably has a hardness of 0.08 to 1.2N.

The liquid oil content containing non-volatile silicone is preferably 50 to 92% by mass with respect to the total amount of cosmetics.

The solid cosmetic of the present invention can be in the form of a stick.

The solid cosmetic of the present invention
For the total amount of cosmetics
With 50-90% by mass of non-volatile silicone,
With wax of less than 3 to 20% by mass,
Since the water content is 30% by mass or less, it can be made fresh.

The solid cosmetic in the present invention means a composition having no fluidity at normal temperature (15 ° C. to 25 ° C.) and normal pressure.
Hereinafter, each component will be described in detail.

(Non-volatile silicone)
Non-volatile silicone is a silicone oil that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and hardly volatilizes at room temperature, outside temperature and / or body temperature when applied to the skin. Specifically, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenyl. Polysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; modified silicone oils such as polyether-modified silicone, alkyl-modified silicone, higher fatty acid ester-modified silicone, higher alkoxy-modified silicone, phenol-modified silicone, fluorine-modified silicone, crosslinked organopolysiloxane; dimethylsiloxane Examples thereof include a methyl (perfluoroalkylethoxypropylene) siloxane copolymer. Among them, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane and the like are preferably used. One type of non-volatile silicone may be used alone, or two or more types may be used in combination as appropriate.

The content of the non-volatile silicone is 50 to 90% by mass, more preferably 50 to 80% by mass, and further preferably 50 to 75% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic. When the content of the non-volatile silicone is 50% by mass or more, the solid cosmetic can be made fresh, and when it is 90% by mass or less, good moldability can be ensured.

The viscosity of the non-volatile silicone is preferably 1 to 300 mPa · s.
Here, the viscosity is a value measured by a B-type viscometer (rotation speed 60 rpm, "Bismetron viscometer VSA type" manufactured by Shibaura System Co., Ltd.) at 30 ° C.
The viscosity when two or more types of non-volatile silicones are used does not mean the viscosity of each non-volatile silicone, but the viscosity of the entire (mixed) two or more types of non-volatile silicones used.

When the viscosity of the non-volatile silicone is 1 mPa · s or more, better moldability can be ensured, and when it is 300 mPa · s or less, the solid cosmetic can be made more fresh. The viscosity of the non-volatile silicone is more preferably 1 to 200 mPa · s, and further preferably 5 to 100 mPa · s.

(wax)
Examples of the wax include solid fats and oils, waxes, hydrocarbons, and higher alcohols. For example, solid fats and oils such as mokuro, cacao butter, and hardened castor oil; waxes such as carnauba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, and jojoba wax: hydrocarbon waxes such as polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, ceresin, and microcrystalline wax; behenyl alcohol, cetanol, Higher alcohols such as bacil alcohol; silicon wax and the like are exemplified. Among these, hydrocarbon waxes such as polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, and microcrystalline wax are particularly preferable because they have good solidifying power (or moldability) when made into a stick.

The wax content is less than 3 to 20% by mass, more preferably 5 to 15% by mass, and further preferably 5 to 10% by mass with respect to the total amount of cosmetics. When the wax content is 3% by mass or more, good moldability can be ensured, and when it is less than 20% by mass, the solid cosmetic can be made fresh.

(water)
As the water, ion-exchanged water, purified water, natural water, mineral water and the like are used. The water content is 30% by mass or less, more preferably 5 to 30% by mass, and further preferably 5 to 20% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic. When the water content is 30% by mass or less, good moldability can be ensured. Further, by setting the content to 5% by mass or more, the solid cosmetic can be made more fresh.

(Organic modified clay mineral)
The solid cosmetic of the present invention preferably further contains an organically modified clay mineral.
The organically modified clay mineral is not particularly limited as long as it has been conventionally used in cosmetics. For example, disteardimonium hectorite, stearylconium hectorite, dimethyldialkyl (14-18) ammonium bentonite, benzyldimethylstearyl ammonium hectorite and the like can be mentioned. The organically modified clay mineral used in the present invention may be a commercially available product, and for example, Benton 38VCG manufactured by Elementis Specialtys Co., Ltd. is preferably used.

The blending amount of the organically modified clay mineral in the solid cosmetic of the present invention is 0.1 to 20% by mass, preferably 0.2 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 5% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic. .. When the blending amount is 0.1% by mass or more, better moldability can be ensured even if a large amount of water is contained, and when it is 20% by mass or less, the freshness of solid cosmetics is ensured. be able to.

The solid cosmetic of the present invention preferably has a hardness of 0.08 to 1.2N. Here, the hardness means a value when a sample left at 30 ° C. for 1 hour using a rheometer manufactured by Leotech is measured with a pressure sensitive shaft of 1φ, a needle insertion speed of 2 cm / min, and a needle insertion degree of 10 mm. .. When the hardness of the solid cosmetic is 0.08 N or more, it becomes easier to make the solid cosmetic into a stick shape. Further, when it is 1.2 N or less, the freshness of the solid cosmetic can be ensured. The hardness of the solid cosmetic is more preferably 0.1 to 0.8 N, and further preferably 0.15 to 0.5 N.

The liquid oil content containing non-volatile silicone is preferably 50 to 92% by mass with respect to the total amount of cosmetics. When the content of liquid oil containing non-volatile silicone is 50% by mass or more with respect to the total amount of cosmetics, the solid cosmetics can be made fresher, and when it is 92% by mass or less, better molding can be performed. Sex can be ensured.

Liquid oils other than non-volatile silicone are oils that are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), such as neopentyl glycol dicaprate, glyceryl tri2-ethylhexaneate, pentaerythrityl tetra2-ethylhexaneate, and tri (capryl). / Caprin) glyceryl acid, glyceryl triisostearate, diethylhexyl sevacinate, octyldodecanol, glyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate, diisostearyl malate, trimethylolpropane tri2-ethylhexaneate, oxyoxystearate Stearyl, tetra (ethylhexanoic acid / benzoic acid) pentaerythricyl, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, squalane, liquid lanolin, tri (hydrogenated rosin / isostearic acid) glyceryl, dimethylpoly Examples thereof include siloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, polybutene, polyisobutene and the like.

In addition to the above ingredients, the solid cosmetics of the present invention may contain other optional ingredients that can be blended in the cosmetics as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. As optional components, moisturizers, powders, pigments, pigments, preservatives, antioxidants, ultraviolet absorbers, polymers, surfactants, chemicals, alcohols, solvents, fragrances and the like can be appropriately blended.

Specific examples of the moisturizing agent include glycols such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol; glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin and the like. Glycerins; sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, mannitol, martitol, xylitol, and erythritol; sugars such as fructose, glucose, galactose, maltose, lactose, and trehalose.
By blending a moisturizer, the moisturizing power after application can be improved.

Specific examples of powder components include inorganic powders such as talc, kaolin, mica, silica, and zeolite; polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, and copolymers of styrene and acrylic acid. Organic powders such as resin powders and cellulose powders; inorganic white pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide; inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide (Bengala); inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and ocher; black iron oxide, carbon Black pigments such as black; Inorganic green pigments such as chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanate; Inorganic blue pigments such as ultramarine and dark blue; Titanium oxide coated mica, colored titanium oxide coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, fish scales Pearl pigments such as foils; metal powder pigments such as aluminum powder and copper powder; red 201, red 202, red 204, red 205, red 220, red 226, red 228, red 405, orange Organic pigments such as 203, orange 204, yellow 205, yellow 401, and blue 404; red 3, red 104, red 106, red 227, red 230, red 401, red 505. Organic pigments such as zirconium, barium or aluminum lakes such as No. 205, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 202, Yellow No. 203, Green No. 3 and Blue No. 1; Natural pigments such as chlorophyll and β-carotene. Pigments can be mentioned. The powder may be hydrophobized or hydrophilized.
The blending amount of the powder is preferably 2 to 15% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic. By setting the blending amount of the powder to 2 to 15% by mass, it is possible to obtain better spreadability and good usability.

The solid cosmetic of the present invention is a step of heating and mixing an oil phase component containing wax, non-volatile silicone and powder, and emulsifying the mixed aqueous phase component by heating the obtained oil phase component as necessary. Can be manufactured after.

The solid cosmetics of the present invention can be applied to makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks, lip glosses, lip balms, foundations and eye shadows, for example. The dosage form can be stick-shaped, dish-shaped, ointment-shaped or the like. In particular, the solid cosmetic of the present invention can be made into a stick because it has good moldability even if the amount of wax is small. And the stick-shaped one is easy to use because it can be applied directly to the skin without the need to use fingers or tools.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples. In addition, the blending amount in the following examples and the like shows mass% unless otherwise specified.
Solid cosmetics were prepared by a conventional method according to the formulations listed in the following tables, and evaluated according to the following criteria.

(hardness)
The hardness of each sample was measured by the following procedure. The sample was heated to 90 ° C., melted, and then poured into a bingata mold for molding. Then, using a rheometer manufactured by Leotech, a sample left at 30 ° C. for 1 hour was measured with a pressure sensitive shaft of 1φ, a needle insertion speed of 2 cm / min, and a needle insertion degree of 10 mm.

(viscosity)
The viscosity when the non-volatile silicone oil was mixed was measured at 30 ° C. using a B-type viscometer (rotation speed 60 rpm, "Bismetron viscometer VSA type" manufactured by Shibaura System Co., Ltd.).

(Moldability)
Each sample was heated to 90 ° C., melted, and then poured into a bingata mold for molding. Then, the sample left at 30 ° C. for 1 hour was applied to the skin in a state of being fed out from the container by 2 mm, and it was confirmed whether the sample was not broken at the time of application or feeding, and evaluated according to the following criteria.
A: Can be molded as a stick B: Can be molded as a stick, but the sample collapses during application and feeding C: Cannot be molded as a stick

(Freshness, luster, and make-up)
The prepared solid cosmetics were used by 10 specialized panelists, and their freshness (immediately after application and aging (10 minutes later)), gloss, and makeup stickiness were evaluated. The evaluation criteria are as follows.
<Evaluation points>
5 points: Very good 4 points: Good 3 points: Normal 2 points: Bad 1 point: Very bad <Evaluation criteria>
A: Average score is 4.5 points or more B: Average score is 3.5 points or more and less than 4.5 points C: Average score is 2.5 points or more and less than 3.5 points D: Average score is less than 2.5 points The formulation and evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

As shown in Table 1, the solid cosmetics of Examples were fresh and had good moldability. On the other hand, the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were able to secure moldability, but could not obtain freshness.
Next, Table 2 shows an example in which the amount of water was changed based on Example 3. As shown in Table 2, in Example 5 in which the amount of water was within the range of the present invention, both freshness and moldability were ensured. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 3, although the amount of water was 30% by mass, the moldability was not good because the internal water phase ratio was large.

Subsequently, Table 3 shows an example of a solid cosmetic having a changed viscosity of the non-volatile silicone. From the comparison of Examples 6 and 7, it can be seen that the lower the viscosity of the non-volatile silicone, the more the freshness is secured. In Example 8, all of the liquid oil content is an example of non-volatile silicone, but in this case as well, both freshness and moldability were ensured.

Further, Table 4 shows a comparative example (nonvolatile silicone is less than 50% by mass) in which the non-volatile silicone is changed to the volatile silicone in the formulation of Example 6. Even in Comparative Example 4 in which 5% by mass of volatile silicone was blended, the freshness after 10 minutes was slightly lost, and the tendency became remarkable as the amount of volatile silicone increased. It can be seen that in order to maintain the freshness over time, the amount of non-volatile silicone needs to be 50% by mass or more, instead of increasing the amount of volatile silicone.

Subsequently, Table 5 shows Example 9 in which the type of non-volatile silicone was changed in the formulation of Example 6. Even if the type of non-volatile silicone was changed as shown in Table 5, freshness and moldability were ensured.

An example of prescribing the solid cosmetic of the present invention is shown below.
Formulation Example 1: Lipstick compounding ingredient (% by mass)
Polyethylene wax 6.4
Microcrystalline wax 4.1
Methylphenyl polysiloxane 50
Dimethicone 20
Tri (caprylic capric acid) glycerin residue

Silicone coated sericite 10
Color material 2.5

Formulation Example 2: Lipstick Polyethylene Wax 6.4
Microcrystalline wax 4.1
Methylphenyl polysiloxane 50
Neopentyl glycol dicaprate 20
Tri (caprylic capric acid) glycerin Residual silicone-coated sericite 10
Color material 2.5

Claims

For the total amount of cosmetics
With 50-90% by mass of non-volatile silicone,
With wax of less than 3 to 20% by mass,
Including
A solid cosmetic containing 30% by mass or less of water.
The solid cosmetic according to claim 1, further containing an organically modified clay mineral.
The solid cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the water content is 5 to 30% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.
The solid cosmetic according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the non-volatile silicone has a viscosity of 1 to 300 mPa · s.
The solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which has a hardness of 0.08 to 1.2 N.
The solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the liquid oil content containing the non-volatile silicone is 50 to 92% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.
The solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is stick-shaped.