WO2021102886A1 - Composition pour le soin/maquillage de fibres de kératine - Google Patents

Composition pour le soin/maquillage de fibres de kératine Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021102886A1
WO2021102886A1 PCT/CN2019/121890 CN2019121890W WO2021102886A1 WO 2021102886 A1 WO2021102886 A1 WO 2021102886A1 CN 2019121890 W CN2019121890 W CN 2019121890W WO 2021102886 A1 WO2021102886 A1 WO 2021102886A1
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alkyl
group
weight
chosen
hydrogen atom
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PCT/CN2019/121890
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English (en)
Inventor
Yizhou Wang
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/CN2019/121890 priority Critical patent/WO2021102886A1/fr
Priority to CN201980102550.5A priority patent/CN114727931B/zh
Publication of WO2021102886A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021102886A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for caring for/making up keratin fibres.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin fibres.
  • the process of changing the color of hair can involve either depositing an artificial color onto the hair, which provides a different shade or color to the hair, or lifting the color of the hair, such as for example, from a dark brown shade to a medium brown or a light brown shade. Hair color can be changed using permanent, semi-permanent, or temporary hair-coloring products.
  • oxidation dye precursors which are also known as primary intermediates or couplers.
  • These oxidation dye precursors are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, give rise to colored complexes by a process of oxidative condensation.
  • the oxidizing products conventionally use peroxides such as hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agents.
  • Such permanent hair color products also contain ammonia or other alkalizing agents such as monoethanolamine (MEA) which causes the hair shaft to swell, thus allowing the small oxidative dye molecules to penetrate the cuticle and cortex before the oxidation condensation process is completed.
  • MEA monoethanolamine
  • the resulting larger-sized colored complexes from the oxidative reaction are then trapped inside the hair fiber, thereby permanently altering the color of the hair.
  • Newly, permanently colored hair usually has a vibrant, shiny, and rich appearance.
  • hair care compositions using complementary cosmetic agents known as conditioning agents in order to improve color uptake or color performance.
  • compositions which are able to deliver a good color uptake and provide improved color performance.
  • An object of the present invention is thus to develop a composition which can result in a good color uptake and an improved color performance.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic process for caring for/making up keratin fibers, which will result in a good color uptake and an improved color performance.
  • the present invention provides a composition for caring for/making up keratin fibres, comprising:
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
  • r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and
  • X - is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin fibers comprising applying the composition as described above to the keratin fibers.
  • the inventors have found that with the combination of a) at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate composed of repeat units corresponding to formula (I) , b) at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer, and c) at least one anionic direct dye, a good uptake can be achieved.
  • the inventors have also found that with the combination of b) at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer, and d) at least one cationic surfactant, an improved color performance can be achieved.
  • composition according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a hair dyeing with a good color uptake and an improved color performance.
  • composition according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a good conditioning of the keratin fibers without charge or weighting of the hair, while maintaining good qualities of use (ease of spreading of the composition on hair, easy to rinse) .
  • keratin fibers includes animal keratin fibers and human keratin fibers such as the hair, especially the hair.
  • color uptake is used to evaluate whether the composition to be tested can color keratin fibers.
  • color performance is used to evaluate whether the color of keratin fibers upon application of the composition to be tested is desired and can last after several times shampoo cleaning.
  • a composition for caring for/making up keratin fibres comprises:
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
  • r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and
  • X - is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
  • the composition comprises at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate composed of repeat units corresponding to formula (I) :
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
  • r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and
  • X - is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
  • r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 10, and
  • X - is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
  • r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 8, and
  • X - is a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate composed of repeat units corresponding to formula (I) is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.3%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 6%by weight, more preferably from 0.8%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer.
  • cationic polymer means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, which are preferably non-silicon polymer.
  • cellulose-based cationic polymers mention may be made particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, and cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer.
  • the cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in French patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR) . 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • cationic cellulose copolymers or the cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • a cationic cellulose copolymer that may especially be mentioned is Polyquaternium-4, which is a copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and of diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • associative celluloses such as alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses quaternized with C 8 -C 30 fatty chains, such as the product Quatrisoft LM sold by the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical (INCI name Polyquaternium
  • Softcat Polymer such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company Amerchol/Dow chemical of INCI name Polyquaternium-67.
  • the weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
  • the cationic charge density of these polymers can vary from 2 to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
  • the cellulose-based cationic polymer (s) is (are) chosen from polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-67, and a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 5%by weight; more preferably from 0.3%to 3%by weight; even more preferably from 0.5%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the at least one quaternary diammonium polycondensate to the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is between 1 and 5, and preferably between 1 and4.
  • the composition comprises at least one anionic direct dye.
  • anionic direct dyes are dyes commonly referred to as "acid" direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances.
  • the term “anionic direct dyes” is understood to mean any direct dye comprising, in its structure, at least one CO 2 R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or from an amine or an ammonium ion.
  • the anionic dyes can be chosen from acid nitro direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azine dyes, acid triarylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.
  • R 7 , R 8 , R 9 , R 10 , R' 7 , R' 8 , R' 9 and R' 10 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • R" representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an aryl, (di) (alkyl) amino or aryl (alkyl) amino group; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;
  • R"' representing an optionally substituted aryl or alkyl group and X' as defined above;
  • aryl (alkyl) amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + and iv) alkoxy with M + as defined above;
  • Ar-N N-, with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + or phenylamino groups;
  • ⁇ W represents a sigma ⁇ bond, an oxygen or sulphur atom or a divalent radical i) –NR-, with R as defined above, or ii) methylene-C (R a ) (R b ) -, with R a and R b , which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or then R a and R b form, together with the carbon atom which carries them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably, W represents a sulphur atom or R a and R b together form a cyclohexyl;
  • formulae (II) and (II') comprise at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) M + or one carboxylate radical (O) CO - -M + on one of the A, A', B, B'or C rings; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (II) of: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2; Food yellow 3 or sunset yellow;
  • dyes of formula (II') of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38.
  • R 11 , R 12 and R 13 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl or- (O) 2 S (O - ) M + group, with M + as defined above;
  • R 14 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a-C (O) O - M + group, with M + as defined above;
  • R 15 represents a hydrogen atom
  • R 16 represents an oxo group, in which case R' 16 is absent, or then R 15 with R 16 together form a double bond;
  • R 17 and R 18 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups;
  • R' 16 , R' 19 and R' 20 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyl group
  • R 21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group
  • R a and R b which are identical or different, are as defined above; preferably, R a represents a hydrogen atom and R b represents an aryl group;
  • ⁇ Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group
  • ⁇ represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group;
  • formulae (III) and (III') comprise at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + or one carboxylate radical -C (O) O - M + on either of the D or E rings; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (III) of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (III') , of: Acid Yellow 17.
  • R 22 , R 23 , R 24 , R 25 , R 26 and R 27 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • aryloxy or arylthio preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + , with M + as defined above;
  • alkyl amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + , with M + as defined above;
  • ⁇ Z' represents a hydrogen atom or an NR 28 R 29 group with R 28 and R 29 , which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • - aryl optionally substituted by one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl, such as methyl, n-dodecyl or n-butyl; ii) (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + , with M + as defined above;
  • ⁇ Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR' 28 R' 29 with R' 28 and R' 29 , which are identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R 28 and R 29 as defined above;
  • formulae (IV) and (IV') comprise at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + or one carboxylate radical -C (O) O - M + ; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (IV) of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT Violet 2;
  • dyes of formula (IV') of: Acid Black 48.
  • R 30 , R 31 and R 32 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
  • heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino
  • R 30 , R 31 and R 32 represent a hydrogen atom
  • R c and R d which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • ⁇ W is as defined above; W particularly represents an–NH–group;
  • ALK represents a divalent, linear or branched, C 1 -C 6 alkylene group; particularly, ALK represents a–CH 2 -CH 2 -group;
  • ⁇ n has the value 1 or 2;
  • ⁇ p represents an integer of between 1 and 5 inclusive
  • ⁇ q represents an integer of between 1 and 4 inclusive
  • ⁇ u has the value 0 or 1;
  • J represents a nitro or nitroso group, particularly a nitro group
  • J represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or a divalent radical —S (O) m –with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably, J represents an –SO 2 – radical;
  • ⁇ M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • ⁇ which is present or absent, represents a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more R30 groups as defined above;
  • formulae (V) and (V') comprise at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + or one carboxylate radical -C (O) O - M + ; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (V) of: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (V') , of: Acid Yellow 1, sodium salt of 2, 4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulphonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulphonic acid, 2- (4'-N, N- (2"-hydroxyethyl) amino-2'-nitro) anilineethanesulphonic acid or 4- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino) -3-nitrobenzenesulphonic acid, EXT D&C yellow 7;
  • R 33 , R 34 , R 35 and R 36 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl group and benzyl group optionally substituted by an (O) m S (O - ) -M + group, with M + and m as defined above;
  • R 37 , R 38 , R 39 , R 40 , R 41 , R 42 , R 43 and R 44 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • R°-C (X) -X'-, R°-X'-C (X) -or R°-X'-C (X) -X"- R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group
  • X, X' and X" which are identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulphur atom or NR, with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • R 41 with R 42 or R 42 with R 43 or R 43 with R 44 together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + ; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di) (alkyl) amino; vii) R°-C (X) -X'-; viii) R°-X'-C (X) -; ix) R°-X'-C (X) -X"-; with M + , R°, X, X' and X" as defined above;
  • R 37 to R 40 represent a hydrogen atom and R 41 to R 44 , which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + group; and, when R 43 with R 44 together form a benzo group, it is preferably substituted by a (O) 2 S (O - ) -group;
  • At least one of the G, H, I or I' rings comprises at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) - or one carboxylate radical -C (O) O - ; preferably sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (VI) of: Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.
  • R 45 , R 46 , R 47 and R 48 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom
  • R 49 , R 50 , R 51 and R 52 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • R 53 R 54 , R 55 and R 48 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom
  • G represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an NR e group with R e representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; particularly, G represents an oxygen atom;
  • ⁇ L represents an alkoxide O - M + ; a thioalcoholate S - M + or an NR f group, with R f representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M + as defined above; M + is particularly sodium or potassium;
  • ⁇ L' represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an ammonium group: N + R f R g , with R f and R g , which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl or alkyl group; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl or (O) m S (O - ) -M + groups, with m and M + as defined above;
  • ⁇ Q and Q' which are identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulphur atom; particularly, Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;
  • ⁇ M + is as defined above.
  • dyes of formula (VII) of: Acid Yellow 73, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Violet 9.
  • R 53 , R 54 , R 55 , R 56 , R 57 , R 58 , R 59 and R 60 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • R°-C (X) -X'-, R°-X'-C (X) - or R°-X'-C (X) -X"- R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group
  • X, X' and X" which are identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulphur atom or NR, with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • ⁇ G represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an NRe group with Re representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; particularly, G represents an oxygen atom;
  • R i and R h which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • the formula (a-VIII) comprises at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + or one carboxylate radical -C (O) O - M + ; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • R 61 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R 62 , R 63 and R 64 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + group, with M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
  • R 61 with R 62 or R 61 with R 64 together form a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + groups, with M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
  • the formula (IX) comprises at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2 S (O - ) -M + , preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formulae (II) to (VII) of use in the present invention are chosen from:
  • the anionic direct dye (s) is/are chosen from anthraquinone dyes of formula (IV) , triarylmethane dyes of formula (VI) , dyes derived from xanthene of formula (VII) , and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises one or more anionic direct dyes chosen from Acid Violet 43, EXT Violet 2, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 9, Acid Red 52, mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one anionic direct dye (s) is present in the composition according to the present invention in amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight; preferably from 0.3%to 8%by weight; more preferably from 0.5%to 3%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one cationic surfactant.
  • cationic surfactant means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the present invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition according to the present invention.
  • the cationic surfactant is preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • R 8 to R 11 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of the groups R 8 to R 11 comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and
  • X - represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfates, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl- or (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylaryl sulfonates.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C 1 -C 30 alkyl, C 1 -C 30 alkoxy, polyoxy (C 2 -C 6 ) alkylene, C 1 -C 30 alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkylamido (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkyl acetate and C 1 -C 30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
  • X - is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfates, and (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl-or (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylarylsulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X) those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium salt sold under the name 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds;
  • R 16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms
  • R 17 is chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and an (R 16a ) (R 17a ) (R 18a ) N- (CH 2 ) 3 group
  • R 16a , R 17a , R 18a , R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • X - is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89) , and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75) .
  • the cationic surfactants are chosen from quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (X) and mixtures thereof.
  • cationic surfactants are chosen from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one cationic surfactant (s) is (are) present in the composition according to the present invention in amount ranging from 0.1 to 10%by weight; more preferably from 0.5 to 8%by weight; even better from 1 to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the said cationic surfactant (s) is/are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; even better the total content of cationic surfactant (s) represent (s) from 0.1%to 10%by weight; better from 0.5%to 8%by weight; even better from 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the at least one cationic surfactant to the at least one cellulose-based cationic polymer is between 1 and 5, and preferably between 2 and 4.
  • the composition of the present invention further comprises at least dimethyl sulfone and/or at least ethyl hydroxypyrone as penetration enhancer.
  • the ethyl hydroxypyrone can also be named 2-ethyl-3-hydroxy-4H-pyran-4-one or ethyl maltol.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least dimethyl sulfone and at least ethyl hydroxypyrone.
  • the total content of dimethyl sulfone and ethyl hydroxypyrone represents from 0.5%to 10%by weight; more preferably from 0.8%to 8%by weight; even more preferably from 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may optionally further comprise one or more fatty substances.
  • the fatty substance (s) optionally present in the composition are non-silicone (not including a silicon atom) .
  • fatty substance is meant an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa) , that is to say with a solubility of less than 5%and preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.1%.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • the fatty substances that can be used in the composition according to the present invention are generally not oxyalkylenated and preferably do not contain a carboxylic acid function COOH.
  • the fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohol means a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol which is preferably liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa) .
  • the fatty alcohols of the present invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols of the present invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the saturated fatty alcohols are preferred.
  • saturated fatty alcohols of the present invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol and cetearyl alcohol.
  • Cetearyl alcohol is particularly preferred.
  • fatty ester is meant an ester derived from a fatty acid and/or a fatty alcohol.
  • the esters are preferably the esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic C 1 -C 26 mono- or polyacids and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic C 1 -C 26 mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of the carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • ethyl and isopropyl palmitates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate
  • isostearyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, such as, the oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate mixed esters.
  • the fatty substance (s) is (are) chosen from fatty alcohols and fatty esters as described previously, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of fatty substance (s) represent (s) from 0.5%to 15%by weight; better from 1%to 10%by weight; even better from 3%to 8%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium.
  • the cosmetically acceptable medium that can be used in the compositions of the present invention may comprise water, one or more organic solvents, or a mixture thereof.
  • the composition according to the present invention is aqueous.
  • organic solvents use may especially be made of those which are liquid at 25°C, especially 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa, especially water-soluble, such as the C 1 -C 7 alcohols, and in particular the aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols of C 1 -C 7 , C 3 -C 7 polyols and ethers of C 3 -C 7 polyols, which can therefore be used alone or mixed with water.
  • the organic solvent may be chosen from ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetically acceptable medium is present in the composition of the present invention in amount ranging from 30%to 90%by weight, more preferably from 50%to 85%by weight, even more preferably from 60%to 85%by weight, and better still from 70%to 85%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may also contain cosmetics additives, such as thickening agents (e.g. hydroxyethylcellulose) , preserving agents (e.g. phenoxyethanol and salicylic acid) , perfumes, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric polymers, pearlescent agents, pH adjusting agents.
  • thickening agents e.g. hydroxyethylcellulose
  • preserving agents e.g. phenoxyethanol and salicylic acid
  • perfumes e.g. phenoxyethanol and salicylic acid
  • nonionic surfactants e.g. phenoxyethanol and salicylic acid
  • amphoteric polymers e.g. phenoxyethanol and salicylic acid
  • the present invention provides a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
  • r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 8, and
  • X - is a halide such as chloride or bromide
  • d) from 1%to 5%by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to above preferred embodiment demonstrate optimum combination of good color uptake and color performance.
  • composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a cream, a lotion, or a milk.
  • composition can be done on wet or dry hair, in rinsed or not rinsed mode.
  • a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin fibers comprising applying the composition as described above onto the keratin materials.
  • rinsing said keratin fibers is carried out after applying onto said keratin fibers a composition according to the present invention.
  • a step of drying the keratin fibers may be provided in the process according to the present invention, in particular by means of a heating means such as a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a steam iron or a heating helmet; the heating means being able to heat at a temperature of from 150°C to 230°C, preferably from 200°C to 220°C.
  • a heating means such as a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a steam iron or a heating helmet
  • Conditioners according to the present invention (Inv. ) 1-4 and comparative conditioners (comp. ) 1-5 were prepared (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each conditioner, unless otherwise indicated) :
  • the conditioners were prepared following the steps of:
  • Step 1 apply 0.4g shampoo on the 1g colored hair swatch, then rinse off the shampoo;
  • Step 2 apply 0.4g conditioner to be evaluated on the 1g colored hair swatch, then rinse off the conditioner, blow dry the hair swatch, then evaluate the color uptake;
  • Step 3 repeat steps 1 and 2 for four times to see the color performance
  • compositions according to the present invention present excellent color uptake and color performance.
  • compositions according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a good conditioning of the keratin fibers without charge or weighting of the hair, while maintaining good qualities of use (ease of spreading of the conditioner on the hair, and easy to rinse)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition pour le soin/maquillage de fibres de kératine, comprenant : a). au moins un polycondensat de diammonium quaternaire composé d'unités de répétition correspondant à la formule (I), où R 1, R 2, R 3 et R 4 qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle ou hydroxyalkyle contenant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone environ, r et s sont des nombres entiers allant de 2 à 20 environ, et X- est un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique ; b). au moins un polymère cationique à base de cellulose ; c). au moins un colorant direct anionique ; et d). au moins un tensioactif cationique. L'invention concerne en outre un procédé cosmétique de soin des fibres de kératine comprenant au moins une étape d'application sur lesdites fibres de kératine de la composition.
PCT/CN2019/121890 2019-11-29 2019-11-29 Composition pour le soin/maquillage de fibres de kératine WO2021102886A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

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PCT/CN2019/121890 WO2021102886A1 (fr) 2019-11-29 2019-11-29 Composition pour le soin/maquillage de fibres de kératine
CN201980102550.5A CN114727931B (zh) 2019-11-29 2019-11-29 用于护理/化妆角蛋白纤维的组合物

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Citations (5)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1338250A (zh) * 2000-08-11 2002-03-06 莱雅公司 用于氧化染色角蛋白纤维的包括阳离子型两亲聚合物、氧化烯化或甘油化的脂肪醇和羟基化溶剂的组合物
CN1847325A (zh) * 2005-03-31 2006-10-18 莱雅公司 具有还原量原料的染料组合物及其染色方法
CN101530376A (zh) * 2008-02-22 2009-09-16 莱雅公司 特定阳离子聚合物作为抗氧剂或自由基清除剂的应用
CN104066423A (zh) * 2011-11-09 2014-09-24 欧莱雅 一种改变头发外观的组合物及方法
WO2018115791A1 (fr) * 2016-12-22 2018-06-28 L'oreal Procédé de coloration capillaire à partir de colorants acides comprenant un prétraitement mettant en œuvre un polymère cationique

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1338250A (zh) * 2000-08-11 2002-03-06 莱雅公司 用于氧化染色角蛋白纤维的包括阳离子型两亲聚合物、氧化烯化或甘油化的脂肪醇和羟基化溶剂的组合物
US20020046431A1 (en) * 2000-08-11 2002-04-25 Florence Laurent Composition for the oxidation dyeing of keratinous fibers comprising at least one oxidation dye and at least one cationic amphiphilic polymer, and dyeing methods
CN1847325A (zh) * 2005-03-31 2006-10-18 莱雅公司 具有还原量原料的染料组合物及其染色方法
CN101530376A (zh) * 2008-02-22 2009-09-16 莱雅公司 特定阳离子聚合物作为抗氧剂或自由基清除剂的应用
CN104066423A (zh) * 2011-11-09 2014-09-24 欧莱雅 一种改变头发外观的组合物及方法
WO2018115791A1 (fr) * 2016-12-22 2018-06-28 L'oreal Procédé de coloration capillaire à partir de colorants acides comprenant un prétraitement mettant en œuvre un polymère cationique

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