WO2021081876A1

WO2021081876A1 - Solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials

Info

Publication number: WO2021081876A1
Application number: PCT/CN2019/114646
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yujie HUANG; Tu LUAN
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2019-10-31
Filing date: 2019-10-31
Publication date: 2021-05-06
Also published as: CN114599339A

Abstract

A solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprises: a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from pentaerthritol esters of C₆-C₂₂ fatty monoacids or diacids, b) at least one pasty compound selected from an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol(s) or an ester thereof, c) at least one first wax selected from solid linear esters derived from C₆-C₃₀ fatty acid, and d) at least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than the solid linear ester derived from C₆-C₃₀ fatty acid. In a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, the solid anhydrous composition is applied to the keratin materials.

Description

SOLID ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR AND/OR MAKING UP KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials. More particularly, the present invention relates to a solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.

BACKGROUND ART

Compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips have been produced to satisfy the need of moisturizing or hydration of the skin and the lips.

To date, some prior art documents relating to cosmetic solid compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips have been published.

WO 2012/165130 discloses a cosmetic for lips which is characterized by comprising: (a) 5 to 30 mass%of hydrogenerated polyisobutene; (b) 30 to 70 mass%of one or more kinds of methyl phenyl silicones separating when mixed with (a) at 25℃; (c) 0.5 to 15 mass%of an oil separating, when: mixed with (a) and; with (b) at 25℃; and (d) 4 to 12 mass%of a wax.

WO 2013/191300 discloses a solid cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising:

- from 5 to 30%by weight of a non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil (s) , or a mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition,

- from 43 to 90%by weight of the total content of a nonvolatile silicone oil (s) relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein at least one of said non-volatile silicone oil (s) is a non-volatile phenylated silicon oil, and

- from 3 to 30%by weight of a wax (es) , or a mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In general, when women use a makeup product, such as lipstick or lipgloss type, they wish the product is stable and has desired hardness, anti-sweating property as well as good application properties such as glideness and leaves a deposit with a good shine level on the lips.

However, it has been difficult to formulate compositions which are stable and present good properties as mentioned above.

Thus, the development for compositions which are stable and have desired hardness, anti-sweating property as well as good application properties such as glideness and leaves a deposit with a good shine level on keratin materials.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An object of the present invention is thus to develop a composition which is stable and has desired hardness, anti-sweating property as well as good application properties such as glideness and leaves a deposit with a good shine level on keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips, which will result a deposit with a good shine level on the keratin materials.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising:

a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from pentaerthritol esters of C ₆-C ₂₂ fatty monoacids or diacids,

b) at least one pasty compound selected from an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof,

c) at least one first wax selected from solid linear esters derived from C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty acid; and

d) at least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than the solid linear esters derived from C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty acid.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising applying the solid anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.

It has been found that with the combination of a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from pentaerthritol esters of C ₆-C ₂₂ fatty monoacids or diacids, b) at least one pasty compound selected from an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof, c) at least one first wax selected from solid linear esters derived from C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty acid; and d) at least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than the solid linear esters derived from C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty acid, the solid anhydrous composition obtained has desired hardness, anti-sweating property as well as good application properties such as the glideness and leaves a deposit with a good shine level on keratin materials.

In addition, the solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention is stable, i.e. it would not lapse after being remained at 20℃, 37℃ and 45℃ for 2 months.

DETAILD DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "ranging from…to…” .

As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.

As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required.

The solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises:

According to a preferred embodiment, all of a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from pentaerthritol esters of C ₆-C ₂₂ fatty monoacids or diacids, b) at least one pasty compound selected from an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof, c) at least one first wax selected from solid linear esters derived from C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty acid; and d) at least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than the solid linear esters derived from C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty acid are of plant origin.

The term "solid" used herein means the hardness of the composition at 20℃ and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30Nm ^-1 when it is measured according to the protocol described below.

The composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20℃ for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

The hardness may be measured at 20℃ via the “cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250μm in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.

The hardness of the samples of compositions of the present invention, expressed in Nm ^-1, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.

The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three shear values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into Newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in metres) .

The hardness is converted into Nm ^-1 by the equation below:

(Y×10 ^-3×9.8) /L

For a measurement at a different temperature, the composition is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.

According to this measuring method, the composition according to the present invention preferably has hardness at 20℃ and at atmospheric pressure of greater than or equal to 40Nm ^-1 and preferably greater than 50 Nm ^-1.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention especially has a hardness at 20℃ of less than 500 Nm ^-1, especially less than 400Nm ^-1 and preferably less than 300 Nm ^-1.

Advantageously, these compositions have a shear value ranging from 75 to 150 and preferably from 80 to 125 gF. Thus, these compositions may be formulated in standard packaging that does not require any composition support means.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2%and preferably less than 0.5%by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, but are not deliberately provided.

Preferably, the “keratin material” according to the present invention is the skin and the lips. By “skin” , we intend to mean all the body skin, including the scalp. Still preferably, the keratin material is the lips.

Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (s)

According to the first aspecto of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from pentaerthritol esters of C ₆-C ₂₂ fatty monoacids or diacids.

By “oil” it differs from the pasty compounds or waxes that are described in the present invention, in that the oils are liquid at room temperature (25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .

The term "non-volatile" means an oil remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a nonvolatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm ²/min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m ³ that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25℃, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm ²) and per unit of time (minutes) .

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

The hydrocarbon-based oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin, preferably of plant origin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" is intended to mean an oil of which the solubility parameter at 25℃, δ _a, is other than 0 (J/cm ³) ^1/2.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: The three-dimensional solubilityparameters, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967) .

According to this Hansen space:

- δ _D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- δp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- δh characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc. ) ; and

- δa is determined by the equation: δa= (δp ²+δh ²) ^1/2.

The parameters δp, δh, δ _D and δa are expressed in (J/cm ³) ^1/2.

As examples of pentaerthritol esters of C ₆-C ₂₂ fatty monoacids or diacids, mention can be made to pentaerythrityl adipate, pentaerythrityl caprate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl triisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl triisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-ethyl) hexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-octyl) dodecanoate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate, and dipentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

Preferably, the at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from ester of pentaerthritol and linear or branched C ₁₄-C ₂₂ fatty monoacid.

Preferably, the at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from esters of pentaerthritol and saturated, branched C ₁₄-C ₂₂ fatty monoacid, such as 2-hexyldecanoic acid, and isostearic acid, (2-decyl) tetradecanoic acid, and (2-octyl) dodecanoic acid.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositon according to the present invnetion comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl triisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-octyl) dodecanoate, and a mixture thereof.

In a more preferred embodiment, the compositon according to the present invnetion comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-octyl) dodecanoate, and a mixture thereof.

More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate as polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

Advantageously, the at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from pentaerthritol esters of C ₆-C ₂₂ fatty monoacids or diacids is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5%to 75%by weight, preferably from 6%to 20%by weight, more preferably from 8%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Pasty compound (s)

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one pasty compound selected from an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof.

The term “pasty compound” used herein is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state exhibiting, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and comprising, at a temperature of 23℃, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23℃. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23℃, represents 9%to 97%by weight of the composition. This liquid fraction at 23℃ preferably represents between 15%and 85%, more preferably between 40%and 85%, by weight.

The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q100" by the company TA Instruments with the software "TA Universal Analysis" .

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A solid fat sample of about 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetic aluminum capsule" . When the solid fatty substance is soft (pasty fatty compound) , the sample is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from 20℃ to 80℃, at the heating rate from 2℃/minute to 80℃, then left to the isotherm of 80℃ for 20 minutes, then cooled from 80℃ to-80℃ at a cooling rate of 2℃/minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from-80℃ to 20℃ at a heating rate of 2℃/minute.

The melting temperature value of the solid fatty substance is the value of the peak of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature. "

In the expression "an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof” , the term "an ester thereof” is intended to denote one of the derivatives of these dimer dilinoleic acid esters of polyol (s) obtained either by reaction of alcohol function (s) of the polyol, which are not employed in bonds of ester type with acid functions of the dilinoleic acid, with one or more carboxylic functions of acid molecules other than dilinoleic acid or alternatively by reaction of acid functions of the dilinoleic dimer, which are not employed in bonds of ester type with alcohol functions of the polyol, with alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol.

Dimer dilinoleic acid

The dimer dilinoleic acid that is suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by polymerization reaction, especially by intermolecular dimerization of at least one linoleic acid.

The oxidation stability of the compound may be improved by hydrogenating the double bonds remaining after the dimerization reaction.

The linoleic acid dimer may also be obtained by dimerization of the hydrogenated form of linoleic acid.

The hydrogenated form of the acid or of the diacid may be partial or total, and may correspond, for example, to the saturated form, which is more oxidation-stable.

As indicated previously, the carboxylic functions of the dimer dilinoleic acid residue not engaged in the ester bond with the polyol residue (s) may be engaged in other ester bonds with other alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol (s) .

These alcohol molecules or residues may be monoalcohols or polyols.

As examples of alcohol residues that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising a hydroxyl function and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

As examples of monoalcohols that are suitable for the present invention, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, eicosadecanol, phytosterol, isostearol, stearol, cetol, behenol, etc.

Polyol (s)

The term "polyol" is intended to denote any hydrocarbon-based compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functions and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon-based chains may be interrupted, where appropriate, by the presence of at least one hetero atom, and especially an oxygen atom.

A polyol or a polyol ester that is suitable for use in the present invention may comprise, for example, from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, in particular from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, and more particularly from 4 to 6 hydroxyl functions.

Where appropriate, the hydroxyl functions, other than those already employed in an ester bond with the dimer dilinoleic acid, may also be employed, wholly or partly with other ester bonds via reactivity with acid molecules other than the dimer dilinoleic acid. The polyol or an ester thereof that is suitable for use in the present invention may be selected especially from linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols.

Thus, the polyol may be selected, for example, from a diol, a triol, a tetraol, or a pentaol, or an ester thereof.

The polyol may be a diol, or an ester thereof, selected especially from a fatty alcohol dimer, a monoglycerol or polyglycerol, a C _2-4monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycol, 1, 4-butanediol and pentaerythritol.

As examples of diols that are also suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made, in a non-exhaustive manner, of butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, 1-decanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecanediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol and xylene glycol, and isomers thereof.

A fatty alcohol dimer may also be the product of hydrogenation, for example catalytic hydrogenation, of a fatty acid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid, especially of C ₈ to C ₃₄, especially of C ₁₂ to C ₂₂, in particular of C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ and more particularly of C ₁₈.

According to one particular embodiment, a fatty alcohol dimer may be a diol dimer that can be the product of hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid. It may be in a saturated form.

A fatty alcohol dimer may be, for example, a dilinoleol dimer.

As an example of a diol that may be suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made especially of diglycerol.

This compound is a glycerol dimer resulting from the condensation of two molecules of glycerol, with the loss of a water molecule.

The term "diglycerol" denotes any isomer combination that can result from such a condensation, for instance linear isomers, branched isomers and, where appropriate, cyclic isomers resulting from an intramolecular dehydration of a diglycerol molecule.

The diglycerol may be obtained via any process known to those skilled in the art and especially those described in patent EP 0750848.

As examples of acid molecules that can interact with one or more hydroxyl functions of the polyol, not employed in the ester bond with the dimer dilinoleic acid, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of molecules derived from isostearic acid, behenic acid, phytosteric acid, stearic acid or cetylic acid.

An ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) that is suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by reacting a polyol or an ester thereof with a dimer dilinoleic acid, in a molar ratio of about 1.0: 0.2-1.0.

An ester that may be suitable for use in the present invention may especially be obtained by reacting a dimer dilinoleic acid with a dilinoleol and, where appropriate, at least one additional monoalcohol selected especially from behenol, isostearol, phytosterol, stearol and cetol, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, an ester used in the context of the present invention may be used in the form of a mixture of various esters, for example.

An ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof that is suitable for the present invention may be obtained, for example, by reacting a glycerol, an isostearic acid and a dimer dilinoleic acid, especially, in a molar ratio of 1.0: 0.2-1.0: 0.5-0.9.

As examples of an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the esters described in patent applications JP 2004-256515 and JP 2005-179377.

An ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof suitable for use in the present invention may have a molecular weight ranging from about 2000 to about 25 000 g/mol, in particular from about 4000 to about 20 000 g/mol, in particular from about 7000 to about 15 000 g/mol and more particularly from about 8000 to about 10 000 g/mol.

According to one embodiment, an ester in accordance with the present invention may comprise an alternating sequence of dimer dilinoleate residue (s) and of residue (s) related to said polyol (s) , and especially to the said diol (s) , said polyols or diols being, for example, as defined above.

Thus, in such a configuration, each of the two ends of the said sequence may bear, respectively, a unit OR' and OR" with R' and R" representing, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or OR' and OR" representing, independently of each other, a C ₂to C ₃₆, especially C ₈ to C ₂₄, in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₀and more particularly C ₁₆ to C ₁₈hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue.

According to one embodiment, R' and R" may both represent a hydrogen atom.

According to one embodiment, OR' and OR" may both represent an identical or different hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue.

As examples of hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residues OR' and OR" that may be suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of fatty alcohol residues.

According to one embodiment, an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof that may be suitable for use in the present invention may have the general formula (I) below:

R ₃-OCO-R ₁ (-COO-R ₂-OCO-R ₁) _n-COO-R ₃ (I)

in which:

- COR ₁CO represents a dimer dilinoleate residue,

- OR ₂O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue having from 16 to 68, from 24 to 44, in particular from 32 to 40, and more particularly 36 carbon atoms.

- OR ₃ represents a monoalcohol residue having from 4 to 40, in particular from 6 to 36, in particular from 8 to 32, in particular from 16 to 28, and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms, and

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, in particular from 2 to 10 and more particularly from 5 to 7.

According to one embodiment, OR ₂O may represent a dimer dilinoleyl residue.

Moreover, OR ₃ may represent a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue selected, for example, from behenyl, isostearyl and phytosteryl residues, and mixtures thereof.

According to another embodiment, the ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof that may be suitable for use in the present invention may, especially, have the general formula (II) below:

in which:

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, especially from 2 to 10 and in particular from 5 to 7;

- OCR' ₁CO represents a dimer dilinoleate residue,

- OR' ₂O represents a diglyceryl residue of general formula (III) below:

in which:

R' ₃ represents H or OR' ₃ represents a fatty acid residue having from 8 to 34, especially from 12 to 22, in particular of 16 to 20 and more particularly 18 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid residue represented by OR' ₃ may be an isostearyl residue.

The viscosity of an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof may be measured according to any process known to those skilled in the art, and especially according to the conventional process described hereinbelow.

The viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate or parallel plate viscometer of Ares type (TA-Instrument) operating in kinetic sweep mode over a shear range of about 1-1000 s ^-1 to induce a flow tension at about 1000 Pa.

The cone/plate or parallel plates may consist of a material selected from the group constituted of stainless steel, acrylic resins or polyphenylene sulfide (PPS resin) .

The cone/plate diameter may be 25 mm (cone angle 0.10 radiants) .

The measurement is performed at about 25℃.

Before any measurement, the stability of the sample is checked by means of the dynamic sweep period test, which makes it possible to determine if the sample is stable per se.

The shear viscosity is determined using the ETA value in the plateau region according to the flow.

The dynamic sweep period is determined at a frequency of 1.0 Hz over a period of 600 seconds.

The measurements at constant sweep rate are performed with a rate ranging from 1.0 to 1000 s ^-1 and in particular from 1.0 to 100 s ^-1.

The viscosity of an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof suitable for use in the present invention may range from about 20 000 mPa. s to about 150 000 mPa. s, especially from about 40 000 mPa. s to about l00 000 mPa. s and in particular from about 60 000 mPa. s to about 80 000 mPa. s.

An ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof that is suitable for the present invention may be selected especially from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate dimer dilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

Such compounds may be obtained, for example, under the reference Hailucent ISDA (Kokyu Alcohol) and Plandool-G (Nippon Fine Chemical Company Ltd) .

An ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof suitable for use in the present invention may be advantageously present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount sufficient to give these compositions improved cosmetic properties, especially in terms of mean gloss staying power.

Advantageously, the at least one pasty compound selected from an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5%to 15%by weight, preferably from 6%to 12%by weight, more preferably from 7%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Wax (es)

The wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25℃) , with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30℃, preferably greater than or equal to 40℃, which may be up to 200℃ and in particular up to 120℃.

The melting point of can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q100" by the company TA Instruments with the software "TA Universal Analysis" according to the protocol already described.

First wax (es)

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one first wax of solid linear ester derived from C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty acid.

Examples of the fatty acids mentioned above are caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, and cerotic acid, saturated or unsaturated.

For the purposes of the present invention, the solid linear esters contain in total from 25 to 36 carbon atoms and have melting points of between 38℃ and 60℃. Preferably, alinear ester is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in solid crystalline form at room temperature.

The solid linear esters that are suitable for use in the present invention are preferably selected from the group comprising stearyl stearate, tetradecyl tetradecanoate (INCI name: myristyl myristate) , cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate and, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the wax of solid linear ester derived from C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty acid according to the present invention is preferably solid linear ester derived from C ₁₀-C ₂₂ fatty acid, and containing from 25 to 36 carbon atoms.

More preferably, the wax of solid linear ester according to the present invention is solid linear ester derived from C ₁₂-C ₂₀ fatty acid, and containing from 28 to 36 carbon atoms.

As an example of waxes of solid linear ester that are most particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of cetyl palmitate, which is for example sold under the name OLEM CP by the company Suzhou Eleco Chemical Industry.

In a preferred embodiment, the first wax is selected from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, or a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the at least one first wax is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 2%to 8%by weight, more preferably from 3%to 6%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Second wax (es)

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than the solid linear esters derived from C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty acid.

The second waxes that can be used in a composition according to the present invention may or may not be deformable at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from wax of animal or plant origin.

Hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used.

Mentions may be especially made of, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, for example sold under the name SUNFLOWER WAX DOUBLE REFINED by the company Koster Keunen, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, for example, 7820 LIGHT SPECIAL CANDELILLA REAL from MULTICERAS, or a mixture thereof.

More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one second wax selected from helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, or a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the at least one second wax (es) is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 5%to 20%by weight, preferably from 7%to 17%by weight, more preferably from 9%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total amount of the first wax and the second wax in the composition according to the present invention ranges from 7%to 25%by weight, preferably from 10%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the first wax and the second wax are present in the composition according to the present invention in a weight ratio ranging from 1: 5 to 1: 2, preferably from 1: 4 to 1: 2.

The inventors found that with the combination of the first wax and the second wax, the composition of the present invention provides a good glideness when applied onto the keratin materials.

Additional oil

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more additional oil (s) .

The additional oils can be non-volatile oils and/or volatile oils.

The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm ²/min, limits included.

The oils may be silicone oil, fluoro oil, hydrocarbon-based oil, or a mixture thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-O group.

The term “fluoro oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

The silicone oil, fluoro oil and hydrocarbon-based oil may be selected from polar oils, apolar oils, or mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “apolar oil” means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25℃, δa, equals to 0 (J/cm ³) ^1/2.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises an additional oil selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises an additional oil selected from triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) :

CH ₂ (OOCR ₁) CH (OOCR ₂) CH ₂ (OOCR ₃) (IV)

wherein R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ are independently selected from C ₆-C ₃₀ alkyl and C ₆-C ₃₀ alkenyl.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, as an addition oil.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises an additional oil selected from triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) :

CH ₂ (OOCR ₁) CH (OOCR ₂) CH ₂ (OOCR ₃) (IV)

wherein R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ are independently selected from C ₆-C ₃₀ alkyl and C ₆-C ₃₀ alkenyl, apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, and a mixture thereof.

Preferably, in formula (IV) , R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ are independently selected from C ₆-C ₂₄ alkyl and C ₆-C ₂₄ alkenyl, preferably C ₆-C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₆-C ₂₀ alkenyl, more preferably C ₆-C ₁₄alkyl and and C ₆-C ₁₄ alkenyl, more preferably C ₆-C ₁₂alkyl and and C ₆-C ₁₂ alkenyl, most preferably C ₆-C ₁₀ alkyl and and C ₆-C ₁₀ alkenyl, said alkyl or alkenyl is linear or branched.

In formula (IV) , R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ may be different, or two or all of R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃may be the same.

Examples of triglyceride oil according to formula (IV) are given in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook.

Preferred triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) are obtained from carboxylic acids of carbon chain length ranging from C ₆ to C ₂₄, preferably from C ₆ to C ₂₀, and more preferably from C ₆ to C ₁₈, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and glycerol.

More preferably, the triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) are selected from triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acids, caprylic acid, capric acid, or mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) are synthetic.

In another embodiment, the triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) are of plant origin. For example, the plant oils that comprise triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) , or triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) obtained from the plant oils can be used.

Vegetable derived triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) are particularly preferred, and specific examples of preferred materials as sources of triglyceride oil according to formula (IV) include peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter oil, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, and sunflower seed oil.

Mentions maybe made of the canola oil, such as that sold under the tradename Lipex Preact by the company AARHUSKARL SHAMN.

Preferably, mentions can be made of Caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names

810, 812 and 818, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil. Mentions may also be made of the product sold by the company Wilmar under the name Wilfare Ster MCT, with INCI name caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Preferably, the apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:

- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,

- squalane, such as NEOSSANCE SQUALANE sold by AMYRIS,

- isoeicosane,

- naphthalene oil,

- polybutenes, hydrogenated polybutenes, such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g/mol) , Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,

- polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as

sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW=1340 g/mol) , Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW=1000 g/mol) , or alternatively Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,

- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals, or alternatively Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical) ,

- decene/butene copolymers and polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14, and

- mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises squalane as apolar non-volatile oil.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises caprylic/capric triglyceride, canola oil, squalane, or a mixture thereof as the additional oil.

when exists, the additional oil (s) is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 30%to 70%by weight, preferably from 40%to 65%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total amount of the at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and the additional oil is present in the composition of the present invention ranges from 50%to 80%by weight, preferably from 60%to 75%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dyestuff

The solid anhydrous composition in accordance with the present invention may optionally comprise at least one dyestuff, which may be selected from water-soluble or water-insoluble, liposoluble or non-liposoluble, rganic or mineral dyestuffs, and materials with an optical effect, and a mixture thereof. Preferably, the amount of dyestuff is below 20%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dyestuff" means a compound that is capable of producing a coloured optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one dyestuff selected from pigments and/or nacres and/or water-soluble dyes, and a mixture thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the present invention comprises at least one water-soluble dyestuff.

The water-soluble dyestuffs used according to the present invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" is intended to mean any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of colouring. In particular, the term "water-soluble" is intended to mean the capacity of a compound to be dissolved in water, measured at 25℃, to a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/l (production of a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, coloured or colourless solution) . This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/l.

As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700) , DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850) , DC Red 22 (CI: 45380) , DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt) , DC Red 30 (CI: 73360) , DC Red 33 (CI: 17200) , DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510) , FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140) , FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985) , DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt) , FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053) , DC Green 5 (CI: 61570) , FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090) .

As non-limiting illustrations of sources of water-soluble dyestuff (s) that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal carmine, of beetroot, of grape, of carrot, of tomato, of annatto, of paprika, of henna, of caramel and of curcumin.

Thus, the water-soluble dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the present invention are especially carminic acid, betanin, anthocyans, enocyanins, lycopene, β-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, the disodium salt of tartrazine and the disodium salt of fuchsin.

Some of these water-soluble dyestuffs are in particular permitted for food use. Representatives of these dyes that may be mentioned more particularly include dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

According to one preferred variant, the water-soluble dyestuff (s) that are to be transferred onto the skin and/or the lips intended to be made up are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium so as to be compatible with impregnation into the substrate.

The water-soluble dyestuff (s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a content ranging from 1%to 15%by weight and preferably from 2%to 10%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one pigment and/or nacre as dyestuff.

The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in the liquid organic phase, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition and/or the deposit produced with the composition.

The pigments may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials) .

The pigments may be selected from monochromatic pigments, lakes, nacres, and pigments with an optical effect, for instance reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.

The mineral pigments may be selected from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof.

The organic pigments may be, for example:

- cochineal carmine,

- organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluoran dyes,

- organic lakes or insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes. These dyes generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group;

- melanin-based pigments.

Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5 and FD&C Yellow No. 6.

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "nacre" is intended to mean coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye in particular of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.

As illustrations of nacres that may be introduced as interference pigments into the composition, mention may be made of the gold-coloured nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica) , Gold 222C (Cloisonne) , Sparkle gold (Timica) , Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne) ; the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne) ; the orange nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna) ; the brown nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite) ; the nacres with a copper tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica) ; the nacres with a red tint sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona) ; the nacres with a yellow tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite) ; the red nacres with a gold tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone) ; the pink nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone) ; the black nacres with a gold tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica) , the blue nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna) , the white nacres with a silvery tint sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) , and mixtures thereof.

Additives

In a particular embodiment, a solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additive usually used in the field under consideration. In particular, the additive is selected from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, dispersants, antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.

It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the present invention such that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 8%to 15%by weight of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-octyl) dodecanoate, or a mixture thereof,

b) from 7%to 10%by weight of Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate,

c) from 3%to 6%by weight of the first wax selected from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, or a mixture thereof, and

d) from 9%to 15%by weight of the second wax selected from helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, or a mixture thereof.

c) from 3%to 6%by weight of the first wax selected from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, or a mixture thereof,

d) from 9%to 15%by weight of the second wax selected from helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, or a mixture thereof, and

e) from 40%to 65%by weight of an additional oil selected from caprylic/capric triglyceride, canola oil, squalane, or a mixture thereof.

In a more preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

d) from 9%to 15%by weight of the second wax selected from helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, or a mixture thereof,

e) from 40%to 65%by weight of an additional oil selected from caprylic/capric triglyceride, canola oil, squalane, or a mixture thereof, and

f) at least one dyestuff selected from pigments and/or nacres and/or water-soluble dyes, and a mixture thereof.

The inventors found that the solid anhydrous compositions according to above preferred embodiments demonstrate optimum combination of desired hardness, anti-sweating property as well as good application properties such as the glideness and leave a deposit with a good shine level on keratin materials.

Galenic form

The composition of the present invention is suitable to be used as a skin care, make up or cosmetic treatment product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of make-up product such as lipstick and so on.

The composition according to the present invention may be prepared in a conventional manner.

According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for/making up keratin materials comprising applying the solid anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.

The examples that follow are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

Examples

Example 1: Formulation of lipsticks

Lipstick according to the present invention (Inv. ) 1 and comparative lipstick (comp. ) 1-3 were prepared (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material, unless otherwise indicated) :

There was no polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from pentaerthritol esters of C ₆-C ₂₂ fatty monoacids or diacids in the Comparative lipstick 1, which is out of the scope of the present invention.

There was no wax selected from solid linear esters derived from C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty acid in the Comparative lipstick 2, which is out of the scope of the present invention.

There was no no pasty compound selected from an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof in the Comparative lipstick 3, which is out of the scope of the present invention.

Protocol of preparation

The lipsticks are prepared following the steps of:

i) Mixing all the ingredients under 95℃, stirring the mixture at 300r/min by IKA Blender Euro–ST P CV S25 model until homogeneous;

ii) Pouring the homogenized mixture into a lip stick mold which preheated to 42±2 ℃, leaving the mixture in the mold under 25 ℃ until solidation.

iii) Demolding the solid mixture from the lip stick mold cooled to about 4 ℃,

Example 2: Evaluation of lipsticks

Evaluation on the shear value, hardness, stability and anti-sweating property of the lipsticks, and usage effect such as glideness, and shininess of the deposit after application were performed.

The shear value and hardness was evaluated according to the protocol described previously.

Anti-sweating property was evaluated by 5 experts by the following steps:

Firstly, put the lipsticks in the oven at following conditions, respectively:

temperature at 30 ℃, humidity at 50%;

temperature at 38 ℃, humidity at 15%;

temperature at 45 ℃, humidity at 10%;

temperature at 37 ℃, humidity at 80%;

temperature at 25 ℃, humidity at 30%;

temperature at 25 ℃, humidity at 50%;

Then, check the sweating property at 8 hours;

Lastly, scores are given by the experts based on that whether the lipstick sweats.

5: the lipstick does not sweat at all;

4: the lipstick basically does not sweat;

3: the lipstick slightly sweats;

2: the lipstick sweats a lot;

1: the lipstick substantially sweats.

Stability was evaluated by 5 experts by the following steps:

putting the lipsticks in ovens at 20℃, 37℃ and 45℃; and

checking the appearance of lipsticks after 2 months.

Glideness was evaluated by 5 experts as follows: slowly applying a lipstick on the upper lip to both sides twice and lower lip two times using the same force, while feeling carefully the force between the lipstick and skin of lips during the second application. The weaker friction force, the higher glideness is.

Glideness is used to evaluate whether the lipstick can slide easily and smoothly during application on the lips.

Shininess was evaluated by 5 experts by applying a lipstick on the upper lip to both sides for twice and lower lip two times using the same force.

After application, do not move the lips for 3 mintues, and then evaluate the following attributes.

Visual attributes were evaluated by using a mirror, so as to check the degree of light reflection or brightness on the middle of the lower lip under standard light.

Finally, comments or scores were given by the experts on stability, glideness and shininess.

5: very good;

4: basically good;

3: acceptable;

2: slightly poor and not acceptable;

1: poor, not acceptable.

The evaluation results of each lipstick were summarized in the following table.

Properties	Inv. 1	Comp. 1	Comp. 2	Comp. 3
Shear value (gF)	87	90	81	83
Hardness (Nm ^-1) *	74.1	76.7	69.0	70.7
Stability	5	5	5	5
Shininess	5	5	2.2	3.4
Anti-sweating	5	1.6	3	2
Glideness	5	5	1	2.4

*Calculated based on the diameter L of the lipstick of 11.5 mm.

It was observed that lipstick of Inv. 1 was stable and had desired shear value and hardness, anti-sweating property as well as good application properties such as the glideness and leaves a deposit with a good shine level on keratin materials.

Claims

A solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising,

a) at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from pentaerthritol esters of C ₆-C ₂₂ fatty monoacids or diacids,

b) at least one pasty compound selected from an ester of dimer dilinoleic acid and polyol (s) or an ester thereof,

c) at least one first wax selected from solid linear esters derived from C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty acid, and

d) at least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than the solid linear esters derived from C ₆-C ₃₀ fatty acid.
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from esters of pentaerthritol and saturated, branched C ₁₄-C ₂₂ fatty monoacid.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is present in an amount ranging from 5%to 75%by weight, preferably from 6%to 20%by weight, more preferably from 8%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the at least one pasty compound is selected from the compound of formula (I) :

R ₃-OCO-R ₁ (-COO-R ₂-OCO-R ₁) _n-COO-R ₃ (I)in which:

-COR ₁CO represents a dimer dilinoleate residue,

-OR ₂O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue having from 16 to 68, from 24 to 44, in particular from 32 to 40, and more particularly 36 carbon atoms,

-OR ₃ represents a monoalcohol residue having from 4 to 40, in particular from 6 to 36, in particular from 8 to 32, in particular from 16 to 28, and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms, and

-n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, in particular from 2 to 10 and more particularly from 5 to 7.
The composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the at least one pasty compound is selected from the group consisiting ofesters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate dimer dilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the at least one pasty compound is present in an amount ranging from 5%to 15%by weight, preferably from 6% to 12%by weight, more preferably from 7%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the at least one first wax is selected from solid linear esters derived from C ₁₂-C ₂₀ fatty acid, and containing from 28 to 36 carbon atoms.
The composition according to any of claims 1-7, wherein the at least one first wax is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 2%to 8%by weight, more preferably from 3%to 6%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1-8, wherein the at least one second wax is selected from beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and esters thereof.
The composition according to any of claims 1-9, wherein the at least one second wax(es) is present in an amount ranging from 5%to 20%by weight, preferably from 7%to 17%by weight, more preferably from 9%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1-10 further comprising an additional oil selected from triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) :

CH ₂ (OOCR ₁) CH (OOCR ₂) CH ₂ (OOCR ₃) (IV)

wherein R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ are independently selected from C ₆-C ₃₀ alkyl and C ₆-C ₃₀ alkenyl, apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, and a mixture thereof.
The composition according to claim 10, wherein the additional oil is present in an amount ranging from 30%to 70%by weight, preferably from 40%to 65%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claim 1-12 further comprising at least one dyestuff selected from water-soluble or water-insoluble, liposoluble or non-liposoluble, organic or mineral dyestuffs, and materials with an optical effect, and a mixture thereof.
The composition according to claim 1 comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 8%to 15%by weight of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-octyl) dodecanoate, or a mixture thereof,

b) from 7%to 10%by weight ofBis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate,

c) from 3%to 6%by weight of the first wax selected from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, or a mixture thereof, and

d) from 9%to 15%by weight of the second wax selected from helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, or a mixture thereof.
A cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising applying the composition as defined in any of claims 1-14 to the keratin materials.