WO2021046732A1 - 一种梭织仿经编的面料 - Google Patents

一种梭织仿经编的面料 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021046732A1
WO2021046732A1 PCT/CN2019/105244 CN2019105244W WO2021046732A1 WO 2021046732 A1 WO2021046732 A1 WO 2021046732A1 CN 2019105244 W CN2019105244 W CN 2019105244W WO 2021046732 A1 WO2021046732 A1 WO 2021046732A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
warp
weft
elastic
fabric
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PCT/CN2019/105244
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
王宗文
Original Assignee
广东前进牛仔布有限公司
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 filed Critical 广东前进牛仔布有限公司
Priority to US16/978,699 priority Critical patent/US11708650B2/en
Priority to PCT/CN2019/105244 priority patent/WO2021046732A1/zh
Priority to JP2020554489A priority patent/JP7458989B2/ja
Priority to CN202010955244.0A priority patent/CN112226873A/zh
Priority to CN202021984832.9U priority patent/CN214032845U/zh
Publication of WO2021046732A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021046732A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/43—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with differing diameters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of fabric weaving, and mainly relates to a woven fabric imitating warp knitting.
  • woven fabrics are stable structure, diversified styles and appearances, smooth cloth surface, and generally do not sag when draped. They are suitable for various cutting methods, but their air permeability and hand feel are not as good as knitted fabrics.
  • the loop structure of knitted fabrics provides the possibility for these excellent wearing properties, so weft knitted denim fabrics appear on the market.
  • the weft knitted denim fabric has good weft extensibility, it cannot meet the dimensional stability requirements of clothing and cannot meet the requirements of the market.
  • the warp knitted fabric has a different structure and style from the weft knitted fabric.
  • the warp knitted fabric has the advantages of small dispersibility, firmness, and good dimensional stability.
  • the adjustment of the yarn material, the structure and the finishing can produce a visual effect.
  • the warping and weaving of warp knitting have high requirements on the strength and elongation of the yarn. Chemical fibers are often used in production, and yarns spun from short fibers (such as cotton fibers) are rarely used.
  • the existing woven fabrics and knitted fabrics have their own advantages and disadvantages.
  • Traditional woven fabrics do not have the characteristics of air permeability and hand feel of warp knitted fabrics, while the appearance style of warp knitted fabrics is not as changeable as woven fabrics.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric imitating warp knitting.
  • the fabric can have the appearance style of a woven fabric and the characteristics of a warp-knitted fabric.
  • the characteristics of good air permeability and good hand feel are designed to solve the problems of poor air permeability and hand feel of existing woven fabrics.
  • a woven fabric imitating warp knitting which comprises a first warp yarn, a second warp yarn, a first weft yarn and a second weft yarn; the first warp yarn and the first weft yarn are interwoven to form the front side of the fabric, and the second warp yarn and the second weft yarn are interwoven The back side of the fabric; the second warp yarn is provided with 7 to 15 weft weave points between two adjacent sets of warp weave points, and the number of warp weave points in each group is at least one.
  • the number of warp weave points in each group is set to 1-2.
  • the first warp yarn is elastic yarn
  • the second warp yarn is non-elastic yarn or yarn with lower elasticity
  • the shrinkage rate of the first warp yarn is greater than that of the second warp yarn
  • the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn are elastic yarns.
  • the ratio of the first warp yarn to the second warp yarn is 2:1 to 1:3, and the yarn count of the first warp yarn is thicker than the second warp yarn.
  • the second warp yarn and the second weft yarn adopt 8 3-flew weft surface satin patterns.
  • the first warp yarn and the first weft yarn adopt a 3/1 right twill weave.
  • the first warp yarn and the second warp yarn are yarns processed by using short fibers, yarns processed by using filaments, and processed by using short fibers to cover elastic silk.
  • the yarn count ranges from 6S to 60S;
  • the yarn count ranges from 40D to 600D;
  • the first warp yarn or the second warp yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn made of short fiber covered with elastic yarn
  • the overall yarn count ranges from 6S to 60S, and the range of elastic yarn is from 20D to 300D;
  • the first warp yarn or the second warp yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn made of short fiber covered with elastic yarn
  • the overall yarn count ranges from 40D to 600D, and the range of elastic yarn is from 20D to 300D;
  • the yarn used for the second warp is the same as or different from the first warp.
  • the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn are yarns processed by using short fibers, yarns processed by using filaments, and processed by using short fibers to cover elastic silk.
  • the yarn count ranges from 6S to 60S;
  • the yarn count ranges from 40D to 600D;
  • first weft yarn or the second weft yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn made of short fiber covered with stretch yarn, its yarn count ranges from 6S to 60S;
  • the overall yarn count range is 6S ⁇ 60S, and the range of elastic yarn is 20D ⁇ 300D;
  • the overall yarn count ranges from 40D to 600D, and the range of elastic yarn is from 20D to 300D;
  • the yarn used for the second weft is the same as or different from the first weft.
  • the woven warp-knitted fabric of the present invention optimizes the structure, so that the double-layer structure of the fabric can not only ensure the quality and strength of the fabric, but also make the fabric have good bulkiness.
  • the woven fabric imitating warp knitting has a fluffy and light cloth surface, a good hand feeling on the cloth surface, and good wearing comfort.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the fabric structure of the woven warp-knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • Figure 2 is a structural diagram of the woven warp-knitted fabric in Example 1 of the present invention.
  • Fig. 3 is a structural diagram of the woven warp-knitted fabric in Example 2 of the present invention.
  • Figure 4 is a structural diagram of the woven warp-knitted fabric in Example 3 of the present invention.
  • the present invention provides a woven fabric imitating warp knitting.
  • the present invention will be described in further detail below. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described here are only used to explain the present invention, but not to limit the present invention.
  • first and second are only used for descriptive purposes, and cannot be understood as indicating or implying relative importance or implicitly indicating the number of indicated technical features. Therefore, the features defined with “first” and “second” may explicitly or implicitly include one or more of the features. In the description of the present invention, “plurality” means two or more than two, unless otherwise specifically defined.
  • the "on" or “under” of the first feature of the second feature may include direct contact between the first and second features, or may include the first and second features. Not in direct contact but through other features between them.
  • “above”, “above” and “above” the second feature of the first feature include the first feature being directly above and obliquely above the second feature, or only that the level of the first feature is higher than that of the second feature.
  • the “below”, “below” and “below” the first feature of the second feature include the first feature directly below and obliquely below the second feature, or it simply means that the level of the first feature is smaller than the second feature.
  • the invention provides a woven fabric imitating warp knitting, comprising warp yarns and weft yarns.
  • the warp yarns and weft yarns are interwoven with each other to form a fabric.
  • the warp yarns and weft yarns are interwoven through a specific structure to form a compact structure, so that the fabric has both woven fabric
  • the appearance style of the fabric also has the characteristics of good air permeability and good hand feeling of the warp-knitted fabric.
  • the fabric includes a front side and a back side.
  • the front side of the fabric has the style of a woven fabric.
  • the back side of the fabric is the side close to the skin. It has the air permeability and feel of the warp-knitted fabric, making the back side of the fabric good skin-friendly and comfortable.
  • the woven warp-knitted fabric includes a first warp yarn, a second warp yarn, a first weft yarn, and a second weft yarn; the first warp yarn and the first weft yarn are interwoven to form the front side of the fabric, and the second warp yarn and the second weft yarn It is interwoven into the back of the fabric; on the back of the fabric, 7-15 weft points can be set between two adjacent sets of warp points on the second warp yarn, and the number of warp points in each group is at least one.
  • the first and second warp yarns are only for the convenience of description, and do not necessarily mean the number of warp yarns and weft yarns, but only to facilitate the description of the fabric.
  • the first warp yarn 21 and the first weft yarn 11 are interwoven to form the front side of the fabric, and the front side of the fabric can be designed according to different styles, such as 3/1 twill, with a classic denim flavor.
  • the second warp yarn 22 and the second weft yarn 12 are interwoven to form the back of the fabric. By continuously setting a plurality of weft points on the back side, the tightness of the fabric after the second warp yarn 22 and the second weft yarn 12 are interlaced is small. When the fabric is compressed, It is easier to be compressed, which helps to improve the breathability, feel and bulkiness of the fabric.
  • the second warp yarn 22 continuously sinks under the second weft yarn 12
  • the second warp yarn 22 sinking at the bottom of the weft yarn (collectively referred to as the first weft yarn 11 and the second weft yarn 12) will form a larger loop with a certain arc.
  • the fabric of the present invention has good comfort when the back surface is in contact with the skin.
  • the finished fabric will undergo desizing, alkaline boiling, washing and other treatments during the post-finishing treatment, if there are too many weft points, the yarn fibers that are not interwoven by the warp and weft will hug each other and not tightly, and the surface of the yarn will be hairy. The increase will cause certain damage to the strength of the yarn, and kinks will occur between the yarn and the yarn.
  • the back of the fabric is in contact with the skin and rubs against the skin in daily wear, which makes the kinks or cross-entanglement between the yarn and the yarn more serious, which seriously affects the style and feel of the fabric.
  • the warp and weft yarns on the back of the fabric will be tightly intertwined and the fabric will not be easily stretched. Therefore, certain parts of the human body will be stressed and squeezed when wearing, which will lead to uncomfortable wearing. Therefore, in the present invention, preferably, 7 to 11 weft points can be set between two adjacent sets of warp points on the second warp yarn, and there will be no entanglement between the yarn and the yarn.
  • the fabric interweave tightness is moderate within the range.
  • the back of the fabric adopts 8 3-flew satin weaves. After many trial weaving results, it is found that the 8 3-fleece satin weaves on the back of the fabric have the best effect.
  • the cloth surface will shrink too much due to the difference between the upper and lower layers, which will cause the cloth surface to wrinkle and the textures will be blurred.
  • the fabric surface within 7-11 floating long threads will have better texture, and the warp shrinkage rate will not be too large.
  • the second warp forms a loop with a certain curvature, the curvature is moderate but the loop stands upright, with good air permeability, good hand feeling, and the best bulkiness.
  • the number of organized points in each group is preferably 1-2. Because this can make the interval between adjacent loops with a certain arc small, the loops with a certain arc are distributed on the back of the fabric to the greatest extent, making the fabric feel soft to the touch.
  • the first warp yarn and the second warp yarn may be the same type of yarn or different yarns
  • the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn may be the same type of yarn or different yarns
  • the first warp yarn may be elastic yarn or non-elastic yarn
  • the first warp yarn may be elastic yarn or non-elastic yarn
  • the first weft yarn is elastic yarn or non-elastic yarn
  • the second warp yarn is elastic yarn or non-elastic yarn
  • the second weft yarn is elastic yarn or non-elastic yarn.
  • the non-elastic yarn can be all yarns that do not have elasticity in the prior art, such as cotton yarn, Tencel, modal, wool yarn, Tencel cotton blended yarn, cotton modal blended yarn, and the like.
  • the elastic yarn can be all yarns with elasticity in the prior art, such as single core-spun yarn, double core-spun yarn, and more specifically can be cotton yarn covered spandex, cotton yarn covered polyester covered spandex, cotton yarn covered chemical fiber elastic yarn, and the like.
  • first weft yarn and the second weft yarn may be elastic yarns, so that the weft direction of the woven warp-knitted fabric has elasticity, and the weft direction is easy to stretch.
  • the weft direction is elastic and the warp direction has a certain arc loop, so that the pressure in the warp direction and the weft direction can be reduced when the human body is worn, and the fabric is more comfortable to wear.
  • the first warp yarn can be an elastic yarn
  • the second warp yarn can be a non-elastic yarn or a lower elastic yarn.
  • the shrinkage rate of the first warp yarn is greater than that of the second warp yarn by more than 5%. Since the first warp yarn is elastic yarn, and the second warp yarn is non-elastic yarn or yarn with lower elasticity, the interweaving of the first warp yarn and the first weft yarn will be better than that of the second warp yarn and the second warp yarn.
  • the weft yarn shrinks more, which will make the multiple loops with a certain curvature on the back of the fabric more compact, and the loops with a certain curvature will form a larger curvature, making the back of the fabric more space for air storage. More fluffy, lighter, better breathability and feel.
  • the woven warp-knitted fabric of the present invention has a lighter weight and a more fluffy hand feeling.
  • both the warp and the weft can be made of elastic yarn to make a four-sided elastic fabric, which makes the fabric easier to stretch in the warp and weft directions, and reduces the pressure of the clothing on the human body.
  • the ease of stretching of the fabric is an important feature that consumers feel the comfort of clothing.
  • the elastic warp yarn and elastic weft yarn are interwoven to form a single-layer four-sided stretch fabric. The fabric will shrink.
  • the fabric surface After shrinking, the fabric surface will be uneven and easy to wrinkle, which seriously affects the appearance and feel of the fabric, and shrinks in the warp direction. The high rate will cause the elastic fabric to curl during cutting, which will seriously affect the production efficiency.
  • warp yarns with or without elasticity and elastic weft yarns can be interwoven to form the upper layer of the fabric, and the warp yarns with or without elasticity and elastic weft yarns are interwoven to form the lower layer of the fabric. , So that the double-layer fabric has a four-sided elastic effect.
  • the fabric has excellent elastic properties, the fabric is very compact.
  • the double-layer elastic fabric When squatting, standing up or exercising while wearing the human body, in certain positions such as hips, knees, etc., the double-layer elastic fabric will have a sense of pressure on these positions, which makes people feel uncomfortable and is not suitable for the requirements of clothing comfort.
  • the use of the woven warp-knitted fabric of the present invention can solve the problem of discomfort caused by the feeling of pressure.
  • the woven warp-like fabric also has the characteristic of four-way elasticity.
  • the front side of the fabric woven with elastic yarns will shrink, making the warp and weft yarns on the front side of the fabric more tightly interwoven, and the front side of the fabric is shown as
  • the style of woven fabric meets people's pursuit of woven fabric style; due to the special structure provided by the present invention, the second warp yarn and the second weft yarn are not closely intertwined, and the back of the fabric has the characteristics of a weft knitted fabric, and the tightness is small , So that the back of the fabric feels soft to the touch, and the loops with a certain curvature are relatively parallel to the skin.
  • the loops with a certain curvature follow the direction of movement of the skin, which can greatly reduce the impact of the fabric. Discomfort from the skin. More preferably, when the first warp yarn adopts elastic yarn and the second warp yarn adopts non-elastic yarn, the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn also adopt elastic yarn, so that the elasticity of the woven fabric imitates the warp knitted fabric. It will be better, easier to stretch, and the fabric feels softer.
  • the warp and weft density and the thickness of the yarn count can determine the surface density of the fabric. The thicker the yarn count, the greater the density, the greater the fabric coverage, and the smaller the fabric tightness, which is more conducive to the bulkiness of the fabric.
  • the first warp yarn and the first weft yarn constitute the front side of the fabric, and the second warp yarn and the second weft yarn constitute the reverse side of the fabric.
  • the yarn count of the first warp yarn It is preferably thicker than the second warp yarn, so that the coverage of the first warp yarn on the front side of the fabric can be large, while the coverage rate of the second warp yarn on the back side of the fabric is small, which is beneficial to the bulkiness of the fabric.
  • the average yarn count on the back of the fabric is thicker than the front, which has a greater impact on the appearance of the front of the fabric, which will make the lines on the front of the fabric unclear. Therefore, it is preferable that the yarn count of the first warp is thicker than the second warp to ensure that the front of the fabric is thicker. The lines are clear.
  • Both the first warp yarn and the second warp yarn can be made of short fibers or filaments, and the materials and yarn counts of the first warp yarn and the second warp yarn can be set to be the same or different as required.
  • the short fiber can be cotton fiber, hemp fiber, tencel, modal, viscose, rayon, polyester, nylon, etc., preferably cotton fiber
  • the yarn count range of the first warp yarn can be 6S ⁇ 60S includes the two end values of 6S and 60S. If the first warp yarn is made of filaments, the yarn count can range from 40D to 600D.
  • the yarn can be processed into elastic core-spun yarn (such as short fiber-covered spandex yarn) with short fiber covered with elastic yarn, or elastic core-spun yarn made with filament covered with elastic yarn. If the first warp yarn is processed into an elastic core-spun yarn by covering the elastic yarn with short fibers, the overall yarn count ranges from 6S to 60S, and the range of the elastic yarn is from 20D to 300D. When the first warp yarn or the second warp yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn processed by short fibers covered with elastic yarn, the overall yarn count ranges from 40D to 600D, and the range of elastic yarn is from 20D to 300D.
  • the first warp yarn may be single core-spun yarn or double core-spun yarn, for example, cotton yarn covered Lycra, cotton yarn covered polyester covered Lycra, cotton yarn covered chemical fiber stretch yarn covered Lycra, cotton yarn covered chemical fiber stretch yarn, and the like.
  • the optional range of the second warp yarn is the same as that of the first warp yarn.
  • Both the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn can be made of short fibers or filaments, and the materials and yarn counts of the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn can be set to be the same or different as required.
  • the first weft yarn as an example, if the first weft yarn is a yarn processed from short fibers, the yarn count can range from 6S to 60S. If the first weft yarn is made of filaments, the yarn count can range from 40D to 600D. If the first weft yarn is elastic, the yarn can be processed into an elastic core-spun yarn (such as short-fiber-covered spandex yarn) with short fiber covered elastic yarn or processed into an elastic core-spun yarn processed by filament covered elastic yarn.
  • an elastic core-spun yarn such as short-fiber-covered spandex yarn
  • the overall yarn count ranges from 6S to 60S, and the range of the elastic yarn is from 20D to 300D.
  • the first weft yarn or the second weft yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn processed by a filament covered with an elastic yarn
  • the overall yarn count ranges from 40D to 600D
  • the range of elastic yarn is from 20D to 300D.
  • the first weft yarn may be a single core-spun yarn or a double core-spun yarn, for example, cotton yarn covered spandex, cotton yarn covered polyester covered spandex, cotton yarn covered chemical fiber stretch yarn, and the like.
  • the optional range of the second weft yarn is the same as that of the first weft yarn.
  • the fabric not only has the appearance style of woven fabric, but also has the characteristics of good air permeability and good hand feeling of warp knitted fabric.
  • the cloth is fluffy and light.
  • the woven warp-knitted fabric is formed by interweaving the first warp yarn and the first weft yarn to form the front side of the fabric, the second warp yarn and the second weft yarn are interwoven to form the back side of the fabric, and a plurality of loops with a certain arc formed on the back side of the fabric form a relatively With more space for storing air, the woven warp-knitted fabric has a lighter weight and a more fluffy feel than fabrics of the same thickness.
  • the first warp yarn is elastic yarn
  • the second warp yarn is non-stretch yarn.
  • the first warp yarn and the first weft yarn will shrink more than the second warp yarn and the second weft yarn.
  • the arrangement of multiple loops with a certain curvature on the back of the fabric is more compact, and the loops with a certain curvature will form a larger curvature, which makes the fabric more breathable and feels better.
  • Double-sidedness Since the first warp and the second warp are interwoven with a double-layer structure, the color of the warp on both sides can be the same on both sides or different on both sides. The fashion expression is stronger, allowing designers to have more room for play; at the same time, Allow consumers to achieve the effect of wearing more than one piece of clothing.
  • the cloth surface feels good.
  • the invention is a special structure.
  • the loops with a certain curvature on the back of the fabric are vertical loops. When the skin and the fabric are rubbed up and down, the loops with a certain curvature follow the direction of movement of the skin, which can greatly reduce the generation of the fabric on the skin. Of discomfort.
  • the weave structure of the woven warp-knitted fabric in this embodiment is shown in Figure 2.
  • Colored grids represent warp points
  • blank grids represent weft points
  • the front of the fabric is 3/1 right twill
  • the back of the fabric is 8 3 Flying weft surface satin pattern.
  • the first warp yarn the core-spun yarn which is 2.0 times of pure cotton 12S and 40D spandex; the color of the yarn is indigo;
  • the second warp yarn use combed 40S pure cotton ring spun yarn
  • the first weft yarn a core-spun yarn with a yarn count of pure cotton 21S wrapped 40D spandex 3.0 times spandex;
  • the second weft yarn a core-spun yarn with a yarn count of pure cotton 21S wrapped 40D spandex 3.0 times spandex;
  • the number of reeds on the warp yarn is: 56 reeds (4 entries);
  • the density of weft yarn weaving is 52T;
  • the air permeability of the woven warp-knitted fabric of this embodiment can reach 46.32 mm/s, and the air permeability is good; the bulkiness can reach 356.45 cm 3 /g, and the bulkiness is good. It can be seen from the data in Table 1 that the woven warp-knitted fabric of this embodiment has good elasticity and good anti-slip ability.
  • the appearance of the woven warp-knitted fabric of this embodiment has the appearance style of a woven fabric, such as clear twill lines, a three-dimensional effect, and tight warp and weft yarns. Due to the design of the structure, the fabric feels soft and comfortable to the touch, and is close to the skin. At times, there is a skin-friendly touch, comfortable, soft and natural.
  • the YG461E air permeability tester is used to test the air permeability of the fabric.
  • the weave structure of the woven warp-knitted fabric in this embodiment is shown in Figure 3. Colored grids represent warp weave points, blank grids represent weft weave points, the front of the fabric is 3/1 right twill, and the back of the fabric is 12 wefts. Face organization.
  • the first warp yarn the yarn count is 10S pure cotton yarn, and the yarn color is indigo;
  • the second warp yarn the yarn count is combed 50S pure cotton yarn, and the yarn color is white;
  • the first weft yarn double core-spun yarn with a yarn count of 100% cotton 16S wrapped with 75D polyester wrapped with 40D spandex;
  • the second weft yarn double core-spun yarn with a yarn count of 100% cotton 16S wrapped with 75D polyester wrapped with 40D spandex;
  • the number of reeds on the warp yarn is: 60 reeds (4 entries);
  • the density of weft yarn weaving is 46T;
  • the performance data of the woven fabric imitating warp knitting of the woven fabric in this embodiment is subjected to a conventional finishing process and its performance data is tested.
  • the air permeability of the woven warp-knitted fabric of this embodiment can reach 58.83 mm/s, and the air permeability is good; the bulkiness can reach 324.82 cm 3 /g, and the bulkiness is good. It can be seen from the data in Table 2 that the woven warp-knitted fabric of this embodiment has good elasticity and good anti-slip ability.
  • the appearance of the woven warp-knitted fabric of this embodiment has the appearance style of a woven fabric, such as clear twill lines, a three-dimensional effect, and tight warp and weft yarns. Due to the design of the structure, the fabric feels soft and comfortable to the touch, and is close to the skin At times, there is a skin-friendly touch, comfortable, soft and natural.
  • the weave structure of the woven warp-knitted fabric of this embodiment is shown in Figure 4. Colored grids represent warp weave points, blank grids represent weft weave points, the front of the fabric is 8 pieces of composite twill weave, and the back of the fabric is 8 pieces of weft. Surface compound twill.
  • the first warp yarn core-spun yarn with a yarn count of 21S and 40D spandex covered with pure cotton; the color of the yarn is indigo;
  • the second warp yarn the yarn count is combed 50S pure cotton yarn
  • the first weft yarn a core-spun yarn of 40S covered 70D spandex with a yarn count of polyester and viscose blended yarn;
  • the second weft yarn is pure cotton 16S yarn;
  • the number of reeds on the warp yarn is: 70 reeds (4 entries);
  • the density of weft yarn weaving is 72T;
  • the air permeability of the woven warp-knitted fabric of this embodiment can reach 40.52 mm/s, and the air permeability is good; the bulkiness can reach 372.63 cm 3 /g, and the bulkiness is good. It can be seen from the data in Table 3 that the woven warp-knitted fabric of this embodiment has good elasticity and good anti-slip ability.
  • the appearance of the woven warp-knitted fabric of this embodiment has the appearance style of a woven fabric, such as clear twill lines, a three-dimensional effect, and tight warp and weft yarns. Due to the design of the structure, the fabric feels soft and comfortable to the touch, and is close to the skin. At times, there is a skin-friendly touch, comfortable, soft and natural.

Abstract

一种梭织仿经编的面料，包括第一经纱（21）、第二经纱（22）、第一纬纱（11）和第二纬纱（12），第一经纱（21）与第一纬纱（11）交织成织物的正面，第二经纱（22）与第二纬纱（12）交织成织物的背面；第二经纱（22）上相邻两组经组织点之间设置7～15个纬组织点。

Description

一种梭织仿经编的面料 技术领域
本发明涉及面料纺织领域，主要涉及一种梭织仿经编的面料。
背景技术
随着社会经济的发展和人们生活水平的提高，人们对服装的要求越来越高，越来越多的人们在追求服装具有休闲、修身、款式等时，也对服装的舒适性提出了更高的追求，因此消费者希望在面料外观上具有传统牛仔的风格，又要求其柔软轻薄、舒适透气、弹性性能优良。
而梭织织物物的主要优点是结构稳定，风格外观多样化，布面平整，悬垂时一般不出现驰垂现象，适合各种剪裁方法，但其透气性、手感等性能则不如针织织物。
随着针织技术的快速发展，针织物的线圈结构为这些优良的服用性能提供了可能，因此市场上出现了纬编针织牛仔面料。但是，纬编针织牛仔面料虽然有良好的纬向延伸性，却不能适应服装的尺寸稳定性要求，满足不了市场的要求。
而经编织物具有不同于纬编织物的结构和风格，经编织物具有脱散性小、牢固、尺寸稳定性好的优点，通过纱线原料、组织结构和后整理的调整可产生对视觉有冲击的效果。但经编的整经和织造对纱线的强伸性能要求较高，生产上常采用化学纤维，很少采用短纤维(如棉纤维)纺成的纱线。因为短纤维纺成的纱线的强度不如涤纶、锦纶等化学纤维，在经编的整经和织造过程中易因张力波动而导致棉纱的力学性能受到损伤；并且由于短纤维加工成的纱线有毛羽和棉结等，在经编整经或者织造生产过程中纠缠和聚集的毛羽或棉结会堵塞分纱筘和导纱针从而引起断纱。因此由短 纤维加工而成的纱线在经编生产中除了对纱线的强力有要求外，对纱线的毛羽要求更高，粗支纱线更加难以达到此要求，这就限制了经编面料的外观风格。
综上，现有的梭织面料和针织面料各有优缺点，传统的梭织面料没有经编面料的透气性、手感等性能的特点，而经编面料的外观风格没有梭织面料的多变，市场上没有一款既具有梭织面料的风格又具有经编面料的特点的面料，因此现有技术需要改进。
发明内容
鉴于上述现有技术的不足，本发明的目的在于提供一种梭织仿经编的面料，通过对面料组织结构的改进，可使面料既具有梭织面料的外观风格，又具有经编面料的透气性好、手感好的特点，旨在解决现有梭织面料透气性、手感较差的问题。
本发明的技术方案如下：
一种梭织仿经编的面料，其中，包括第一经纱、第二经纱、第一纬纱和第二纬纱；第一经纱与第一纬纱交织成织物的正面，第二经纱与第二纬纱交织成织物的背面；第二经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间设置7～15个纬组织点，每组经组织点的数量至少为1个。
所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其中，所述第二经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间设置7～11个纬组织点。
所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其中，每组经组织点的数量设置为1-2个。
所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其中，第一经纱采用弹力纱线，第二经纱采用无弹力纱线或较低弹力的纱线，第一经纱的收缩率大于第二经纱。
所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其中，第一纬纱和第二纬纱采用弹力纱线。
所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其中，第一经纱和第二经纱的比例是2:1～1:3，第一经纱的纱支比第二经纱粗。
所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其中，第二经纱和第二纬纱采用8枚3 飞纬面缎纹。
所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其中，第一经纱和第一纬纱采用3/1右斜纹。
所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其中，第一经纱和第二经纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线、采用长丝加工而成的纱线、采用短纤维包覆弹力丝工成的弹性包芯纱、或采用长丝包覆弹力丝工成的弹性包芯纱；
当第一经纱或第二经纱为短纤维加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为6S～60S；
当第一经纱或第二经纱为长丝加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为40D～600D；
当第一经纱或第二经纱为短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为6S～60S，弹力丝的范围为20D～300D；
当第一经纱或第二经纱为短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为40D～600D，弹力丝的范围为20D～300D；
第二经纱所采用的纱线与第一经纱相同或不同。
所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其中，第一纬纱和第二纬纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线、采用长丝加工而成的纱线、采用短纤维包覆弹力丝工成的弹性包芯纱、或采用长丝包覆弹力丝工成的弹性包芯纱；
当第一纬纱或第二纬纱为短纤维加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为6S～60S；
当第一纬纱或第二纬纱为长丝加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为40D～600D；
当第一纬纱或第二纬纱为短纤维包覆弹力丝加工而成的弹性包芯纱，其纱支范围为6S～60S；
当第一纬纱或第二纬纱为短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为6S～60S，弹力丝的范围为20D～300D；
当第一纬纱或第二纬纱为采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为40D～600D，弹力丝的范围为20D～300D；
第二纬纱所采用的纱线与第一纬纱相同或不同。
有益效果：本发明的梭织仿经编的面料，通过对组织结构进行优化，使双层组织结构的面料既能保证面料的质量和强度，又能使面料具有良好的蓬松度。所述梭织仿经编的面料，布面蓬松、轻盈，布面手感好，穿着舒适性好。
附图说明
图1为本发明梭织仿经编的面料的面料结构示意图。
图2为本发明实施例1中梭织仿经编的面料的组织结构图。
图3为本发明实施例2中梭织仿经编的面料的组织结构图。
图4为本发明实施例3中梭织仿经编的面料的组织结构图。
具体实施方式
本发明提供一种梭织仿经编的面料，为使本发明的目的、技术方案及效果更加清楚、明确，以下对本发明进一步详细说明。应当理解，此处所描述的具体实施例仅仅用以解释本发明，并不用于限定本发明。
在本发明的描述中，需要理解的是，术语“中心”、“纵向”、“横向”、“长度”、“宽度”、“厚度”、“上”、“下”、“前”、“后”、“左”、“右”、“竖直”、“水平”、“顶”、“底”、“内”、“外”、“顺时针”、“逆时针”等指示的方位或位置关系为基于附图所示的方位或位置关系，仅是为了便于描述本发明和简化描述，而不是指示或暗示所指的装置或元件必须具有特定的方位、以特定的方位构造和操作，因此不能理解为对本发明的限制。此外，术语“第一”、“第二”仅用于描述目的，而不能理解为指示或暗示相对重要性或者隐含指明所指示的技术特征的数量。由此，限定有“第一”、“第二”的特征 可以明示或者隐含地包括一个或者更多个所述特征。在本发明的描述中，“多个”的含义是两个或两个以上，除非另有明确具体的限定。
在本发明的描述中，需要说明的是，除非另有明确的规定和限定，术语“安装”、“相连”、“连接”应做广义理解，例如，可以是固定连接，也可以是可拆卸连接，或一体地连接；可以是机械连接，也可以是电连接或可以相互通讯；可以是直接相连，也可以通过中间媒介间接相连，可以是两个元件内部的连通或两个元件的相互作用关系。对于本领域的普通技术人员而言，可以根据具体情况理解上述术语在本发明中的具体含义。
在本发明中，除非另有明确的规定和限定，第一特征在第二特征之“上”或之“下”可以包括第一和第二特征直接接触，也可以包括第一和第二特征不是直接接触而是通过它们之间的另外的特征接触。而且，第一特征在第二特征“之上”、“上方”和“上面”包括第一特征在第二特征正上方和斜上方，或仅仅表示第一特征水平高度高于第二特征。第一特征在第二特征“之下”、“下方”和“下面”包括第一特征在第二特征正下方和斜下方，或仅仅表示第一特征水平高度小于第二特征。
下文的公开提供了许多不同的实施方式或例子用来实现本发明的不同结构。为了简化本发明的公开，下文中对特定例子的部件和设置进行描述。当然，它们仅仅为示例，并且目的不在于限制本发明。此外，本发明可以在不同例子中重复参考数字和/或参考字母，这种重复是为了简化和清楚的目的，其本身不指示所讨论各种实施方式和/或设置之间的关系。此外，本发明提供了的各种特定的工艺和材料的例子，但是本领域普通技术人员可以意识到其他工艺的应用和/或其他材料的使用。
本发明提供一种梭织仿经编的面料，包括经纱和纬纱，经纱和纬纱相互浮沉交织而成织物，经纱与纬纱通过特定的组织结构进行交织而成紧密的结构，使面料既具有梭织面料的外观风格，又具有经编面料的透气性好、手感好的特点。织物包括正面和背面，织物的正面具有梭织面料的风格， 织物的背面即贴近皮肤的那一面，具有经编面料的透气性和手感，使得织物的背面具有良好的亲肤舒适感。
具体地，所述的梭织仿经编的面料包括第一经纱、第二经纱、第一纬纱和第二纬纱；第一经纱与第一纬纱交织成织物的正面，第二经纱与第二纬纱交织成织物的背面；织物的背面，第二经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间可以设置7～15个纬组织点，每组经组织点的数量至少为1个。需要说明的是，第一、第二经纱只是为了方便描述，并不代表一定是经纱和纬纱数量，只是方便对织物进行描述。
第一经纱21与第一纬纱11交织成织物的正面，织物的正面可以根据不同的风格进行设计，如3/1斜纹，具有经典的牛仔风味。第二经纱22与第二纬纱12交织成织物的背面，通过在背面连续设置多个纬组织点，因此，第二经纱22和第二纬纱12交织后织物紧度小，当织物被压缩时，比较容易被压缩，有利于提高织物的透气性、手感和蓬松度。并且因为第二经纱22连续沉于第二纬纱12之下，沉于纬纱(第一纬纱11和第二纬纱12的统称)底部的第二经纱22会形成一个较大的具有一定弧度的线圈，如图1所示，由于织物背面存在多个由第二经纱22形成的具有一定弧度的线圈，使第二经纱22与纬纱之间存在较多储存空气的空间30，使得织物背面摸起来手感柔软，透气性好，蓬松度好。因此，本发明的织物背面与皮肤接触时舒适性好。
因为制成的面料在进行后整理处理时会经过退浆、碱煮、洗水等处理，如果纬组织点过多，经纬纱未交织的纱线纤维会相互抱和不紧密，纱线表面毛羽增加，对纱线的强力造成一定的损伤，同时纱线与纱线之间会发生相互扭结。织物背面跟皮肤接触，在日常穿着中与皮肤之间进行摩擦，使得纱线与纱线之间扭结或者交叉相缠更加严重，严重影响面料的风格和手感。如果纬组织点过少时，在织物背面经纬纱交织较紧密，织物不容易被拉伸，因此使得人体穿着时某些部位受力大，有挤压感，从而导致穿着不 舒适的感觉。因此，在本发明中优选，所述第二经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间可以设置7～11个纬组织点，纱线与纱线之间不会出现交缠的情况，在此范围内织物交织紧度适中。最为优选地，织物背面采用8枚3飞纬面缎纹，经过多次试织结果发现，织物背面采用8枚3飞纬面缎纹的效果最好。
而且，如果纬组织点过多，布面会因为上下两层收缩差异过大，导致布面起皱，纹路糊掉。经过大量的实验和试织发现，7-11根浮长线之内的布面会纹路更好看，经向收缩率不至于太大。而且，采用此范围的织物，第二经纱形成的具有一定弧度的线圈，弧度适中而线圈挺立，透气性好、手感好、蓬松度最好。
优选地，每组经组织点的数量优选为1-2个。因为这样可以使得相邻的具有一定弧度的线圈间隔小，具有一定弧度的线圈最大程度地分布在织物的背面，使织物摸起来手感柔顺。
第一经纱、第二经纱可以是同种纱线或者不同纱线，第一纬纱和第二纬纱可以采用同种纱线或者不同纱线，第一经纱采用弹力纱线或无弹力纱线，第一纬纱采用弹力纱线或无弹力纱线，第二经纱采用弹力纱线或无弹力纱线，第二纬纱采用弹力纱线或无弹力纱线。其中，所述无弹力纱可以为现有技术中所有不具有弹力的纱线，例如棉纱、天丝、莫代尔、羊毛纱、天丝棉混纺纱、棉莫代尔混纺纱等。所述弹力纱可以为现有技术中所有具有弹力的纱线，例如单包芯纱、双包芯纱，更具体可以为棉纱包氨纶、棉纱包涤纶包氨纶、棉纱包化纤弹力丝等。
进一步地，所述第一纬纱和第二纬纱可以采用弹力纱线，这样所述梭织仿经编的面料的纬向具有弹性，纬向容易拉伸。纬向有弹性结合经向的具有一定弧度的线圈，使得人体穿着时经向和纬向的压力都可减小，面料穿着更加舒适。
进一步地，第一经纱可以采用弹力纱线，第二经纱可以采用无弹力纱 线或较低弹力的纱线，第一经纱的收缩率比第二经纱的收缩率大5％以上。由于第一经纱采用弹力纱，第二经纱采用无弹力纱线或较低弹力的纱线，织物经过常规后整理处理后，第一经纱与第一纬纱的交织会比与第二经纱与第二纬纱收缩得更多，会使织物背面的多个具有一定弧度的线圈排列更加紧凑，并且具有一定弧度的线圈会形成更大的弧度，使得织物的背面形成更多可以储存空气的空间，布面更加蓬松、轻盈，透气性和手感更好。本发明梭织仿经编的面料，与同等厚度的梭织织物相比，重量更轻盈，手感更蓬松。
对于人穿着服装来讲，最主要的是穿着时人体感觉舒适，在某些位置上(如臀部、膝盖等)因人体运动时，服装会对这些位置产生一定的压力感，从而使人穿着时感到紧实、有压力，达不到舒适的效果。为了解决此问题，经纱和纬纱可以均采用弹力纱制成四面弹的面料，使得面料在经纬向更容易拉伸，减少服装对人体的压力。面料容易被拉伸是消费者感受到服装舒适性的一个重要特征。采用弹性的经纱和弹性的纬纱相互交织成为单层的四面弹面料，制成的面料会发生收缩，收缩后面料布面不平整，容易起皱，严重影响面料的外观跟手感，同时经向缩水率大，从而导致弹性面料在进行裁剪时会发生卷曲，严重影响生产的效率。对于现有双层弹性面料，为了使得面料具有360度弹性性能，可以采用有或无弹性的经纱与弹性的纬纱交织成织物的上层，有或无弹性的经纱与弹性的纬纱交织成织物的下层，使得双层织物具有四面弹性的效果。但是现有的双层弹性面料的经向和纬向经过处理后，会发生收缩，使得该面料的经向和纬向相互紧密，虽然该面料的弹性性能优良，但该面料非常紧实。当在人体穿着时蹲起、站起或者运动时，某些位置如臀部、膝盖等，该双层弹性面料会对这些位置有压力感，让人感觉到不舒适，不适合服装舒适的要求。
而采用本发明所述的梭织仿经编的面料，就可以解决此压力感导致不舒适问题。当第一经纱采用弹力纱线，第二经纱采用无弹力纱线或较低弹 力的纱线时，所述梭织仿经编的面料也具有四面弹的特性。由于采用弹性纱线制成的织物，其收缩性要大于采用非弹性纱线制成的织物，因此采用弹性纱线织造织物正面会收缩，使织物正面的经纬纱交织更加紧密，织物正面表现为梭织面料的风格，满足人们对梭织面料风格的追求；由于采用本发明所提供的特殊组织结构，第二经纱和第二纬纱交织不够紧密，织物背面具有纬编织物的特点，紧度小，使织物背面摸起来手感柔软，且具有一定弧度的线圈和皮肤是相对平行的，当皮肤与面料发生上下摩擦时，具有一定弧度的线圈都是顺着皮肤的运动方向，可以大大减少面料对皮肤产生的不适感。更为优选地，当第一经纱采用弹力纱线，第二经纱采用无弹力纱线时，所述第一纬纱和第二纬纱也采用弹力纱，这样所述梭织仿经编的面料的弹性会更好，更容易拉伸，织物手感柔软。
经纬密度大小和纱支的粗细、能够决定织物的面密度，纱支越粗，密度越大，织物的覆盖率越大，织物紧度越小，越有利于织物的蓬松度。第一经纱与第一纬纱构成织物的正面，第二经纱与第二纬纱构成织物的反面，当第一经纱和第二经纱的比例是2:1～1:3时，第一经纱的纱支优选为比第二经纱粗，这样可以使第一经纱在织物正面的覆盖率大，而第二经纱在织物反面的覆盖率小，有利于织物的蓬松度。而且，织物的背面平均纱支粗过正面，对织物正面外观影响越大，会使得织物正面的纹路不清晰，因此，优选为第一经纱的纱支比第二经纱粗，可以保证织物正面的纹路清晰。
第一经纱和第二经纱均可以采用短纤维或长丝加工而成的纱线，第一经纱和第二经纱的材质和纱支可以根据需要设置为相同或不同。以第一经纱为例进行说明，短纤维可以为棉纤维、麻纤维、天丝、莫代尔、粘胶、人棉、涤纶、锦纶等，优选棉纤维，第一经纱的纱支范围可以为6S～60S，包括6S和60S这两个端值。如果第一经纱采用长丝加工而成的纱线，纱支范围可以为40D～600D。如果第一经纱是有弹性的，纱线可以为短纤维 包覆弹力丝加工成弹性包芯纱(如短纤维包氨纶丝)或采用长丝包覆弹力丝工成的弹性包芯纱。如果第一经纱采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支的范围为6S～60S，其中弹力丝的范围为20D～300D。当第一经纱或第二经纱为短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为40D～600D，弹力丝的范围为20D～300D。第一经纱可以是单包芯纱或双包芯纱，例如，棉纱包莱卡、棉纱包涤纶包莱卡、棉纱包化纤弹力丝包莱卡、棉纱包化纤弹力丝等。第二经纱的可选范围与第一经纱相同。
第一纬纱和第二纬纱均可以采用短纤维或长丝加工成的纱线，第一纬纱和第二纬纱的材质和纱支可以根据需要设置为相同或不同。以第一纬纱为例进行说明，如果第一纬纱是采用短纤维加工而成的纱线，纱支的范围可以为6S～60S。如果第一纬纱采用长丝加工而成的纱线，纱支范围可以为40D～600D。如果第一纬纱是有弹性的，纱线可以为短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成弹性包芯纱(如短纤维包氨纶丝)或或采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱。如果第一纬纱采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支的范围为6S～60S，其中弹力丝的范围为20D～300D。当第一纬纱或第二纬纱为长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为40D～600D，弹力丝的范围为20D～300D。第一纬纱可以是单包芯纱或双包芯纱，例如，棉纱包氨纶、棉纱包涤纶包氨纶、棉纱包化纤弹力丝等。第二纬纱的可选范围与第一纬纱相同。
采用本发明所提供的的梭织仿经编的面料，至少具有以下优点：
1、面料既具有梭织面料的外观风格，又具有经编面料的透气性好、手感好的特点。
2、布面蓬松、轻盈。所述梭织仿经编的面料是通过第一经纱与第一纬纱交织成织物的正面，第二经纱与第二纬纱交织形成织物的反面，织物反面形成的多个具有一定弧度的线圈形成较多储存空气的空间，使所述梭 织仿经编的面料与同等厚度的织物相比，重量更轻盈，手感更蓬松。优选地，第一经纱采用弹力纱，第二经纱采用无弹力纱，织物经过常规后整理处理后，第一经纱与第一纬纱交织会比第二经纱与第二纬纱交织收缩得更多，会使织物背面的多个具有一定弧度的线圈排列更加紧凑，并且具有一定弧度的线圈会形成更大的弧度，使得织物的透气性和手感更佳。
3、双面性。由于采用第一经纱和第二经纱分别交织双层结构，正反两面的经纱颜色可双面相同也可双面不同，时尚表现力更强，让设计师能够拥有更大的发挥空间；同时也可以让消费者达到一衣多穿的效果。
4、布面手感好。本发明是特殊组织，织物背面的具有一定弧度的线圈为竖向起圈，当皮肤与面料发生上下摩擦时，具有一定弧度的线圈都是顺着皮肤的运动方向，可以大大减少面料对皮肤产生的不适感。
5、织造效率高。本发明中虽然是采用了两种纬纱，但在织造过程中可以采用两个系统的纬纱进行织造，也可以用一个系统的纬纱完成织造。在本发明中优选一个系统的纬纱，由于本发明中经密大于纬密，织造时和单层织物的纬密设定差异不大，因此织造效率高，耗时短。
以下通过具体实施例对本发明作进一步说明。
实施例1
本实施例梭织仿经编的面料的组织结构如图2所示，有颜色的格子表示经组织点，空白格表示纬组织点，织物正面为3/1右斜纹，织物背面为8枚3飞纬面缎纹。
第一经纱：采用纯棉12S包40D氨纶2.0倍的包芯纱；纱线颜色为靛蓝；
第二经纱：采用精梳40S纯棉环锭的纱线；
第一纬纱：采用纱支为纯棉21S包40D氨纶3.0倍氨纶的包芯纱；
第二纬纱：采用纱支为纯棉21S包40D氨纶3.0倍氨纶的包芯纱；
经纱上机筘号为：56筘(4入)；
纬纱织造上机密度为：52T；
第一经纱覆盖率为:56/28(11.8)＝58.3％.；
第二经纱覆盖率为：56/28(40)＝31.6％。
本实施例织造完成的梭织仿经编的面料经过常规后整理工艺处理后，对其性能数据进行测试，测试结果如表1所示。其中，本实施例的梭织仿经编的面料的透气性可达46.32mm/s，透气性好；蓬松度可达356.45cm 3/g，蓬松度好。从表1的数据可以看出，本实施例的梭织仿经编的面料，弹性好，抗滑移能力好。本实施例的梭织仿经编的面料外观具有梭织面料的外观风格，如斜纹纹路清晰，有立体感，经纬纱交织紧密，由于组织结构的设计，使得面料摸起来手感柔软舒适，贴近皮肤时，有一种亲肤般的触感，舒适、柔软、自然。
本发明中相关性能测试的依据如下：
根据GB/T5453-97标准《织物透气性的测定》，采用YG461E透气性测试仪测试面料的透气性性能。
蓬松度，采用FAST-1压缩性织物风格仪分别测试2cN/cm 2下织物厚度T 2和100cN/cm 2下织物厚度T 100，织物表观厚度计算公式为T 0＝T 2-T 100，织物蓬松度计算公式为：
Figure PCTCN2019105244-appb-000001
式中：B为蓬松度(cm 3/g)；T 0为表观厚度(mm)；W为织物的面密度(g/m 2)。
根据FZ/T 01034—2008标准《纺织品机织物拉伸弹性试验方法》，测试机织物拉伸弹性性能，如弹性伸长率、弹性回复性、增长率(即塑性变形)。
根据GB/T 13772.2—2018国家标准《纺织品机织物接缝处纱线抗滑移的测定第2部分：定负荷法》，测试机织物经纬向接缝处纱线抗滑移(即纰裂)的能力。
表1
   回复率 伸长率 增长率 纰裂
经向 76.6％ 24.4％ 4.6％ 0.32
纬向 91.8％ 60.4％ 3.5％ 0.43
实施例2
本实施例梭织仿经编的面料的组织结构如图3所示，有颜色的格子表示经组织点，空白格表示纬组织点，织物正面为3/1右斜纹，织物背面为12片纬面组织。
第一经纱：采用纱支为10S纯棉纱线，纱线颜色为靛蓝；
第二经纱：采用纱支为精梳50S纯棉的纱线，纱线颜色为白色；
第一纬纱：采用纱支为纯棉16S包75D涤纶包40D氨纶的双包芯纱；
第二纬纱：采用纱支为纯棉16S包75D涤纶包40D氨纶的双包芯纱；
经纱上机筘号为：60筘(4入)；
纬纱织造上机密度为：46T；
第一经纱覆盖率为：60/28(10)＝67.8％.；
第二经纱覆盖率为：60/28(50)＝30.3％。
本实施例织造完成的梭织仿经编的面料经过常规后整理工艺处理后，对其性能数据进行测试，测试结果如表2所示。其中，本实施例的梭织仿经编的面料的的透气性可达58.83mm/s，透气性好；蓬松度可达324.82cm 3/g，蓬松度好。从表2的数据可以看出，本实施例的梭织仿经编的面料，弹性好，抗滑移能力好。本实施例的梭织仿经编的面料外观具有梭织面料的外观风格，如斜纹纹路清晰，有立体感，经纬纱交织紧密，由于组织结构的设计，使得面料摸起来手感柔软舒适，贴近皮肤时，有一种亲肤般的触感，舒适、柔软、自然。
表2
  回复率 伸长率 增长率 纰裂
经向 38.2％ 13.2％ 6.2％ 0.32
纬向 92.1％ 58.6％ 3.8％ 0.48
实施例3
本实施例梭织仿经编的面料的组织结构如图4所示，有颜色的格子表示经组织点，空白格表示纬组织点，织物正面为8片复合斜纹平纹，织物背面为8片纬面复合斜纹。
第一经纱：采用纱支为纯棉21S包40D氨纶的包芯纱；纱线颜色为靛蓝；
第二经纱：采用纱支为精梳50S纯棉纱线；
第一纬纱：采用纱支为涤粘混纺的40S包70D氨纶的包芯纱；
第二纬纱：采用纱支为纯棉16S纱线；
经纱上机筘号为：70筘(4入)；
纬纱织造上机密度为：72T；
第一经纱覆盖率为:70/28(20.8)＝54.8％.；
第二经纱覆盖率为：70/28(50)＝35.3％。
本实施例织造完成的梭织仿经编的面料经过常规后整理工艺处理后，对其性能数据进行测试，测试结果如表3所示。其中，本实施例的梭织仿经编的面料的的透气性可达40.52mm/s，透气性好；蓬松度可达372.63cm 3/g，蓬松度好。从表3的数据可以看出，本实施例的梭织仿经编的面料，弹性好，抗滑移能力好。本实施例的梭织仿经编的面料外观具有梭织面料的外观风格，如斜纹纹路清晰，有立体感，经纬纱交织紧密，由于组织结构的设计，使得面料摸起来手感柔软舒适，贴近皮肤时，有一种亲肤般的触感，舒适、柔软、自然。
表3
  回复率 伸长率 增长率 纰裂
经向 75.3％ 24.4％ 2.1％ 0.21
纬向 88.2％ 35％ 3.6％ 0.36
应当理解的是，本发明的应用不限于上述的举例，对本领域普通技术人员来说，可以根据上述说明加以改进或变换，所有这些改进和变换都应属于本发明所附权利要求的保护范围。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，包括第一经纱、第二经纱、第一纬纱和第二纬纱；第一经纱与第一纬纱交织成织物的正面，第二经纱与第二纬纱交织成织物的背面；第二经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间设置7～15个纬组织点，每组经组织点的数量至少为1个。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，所述第二经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间设置7～11个纬组织点。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，每组经组织点的数量设置为1-2个。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，第一经纱采用弹力纱线，第二经纱采用无弹力纱线或较低弹力的纱线，第一经纱的收缩率大于第二经纱。
  5. 根据权利要求1或4所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，第一纬纱和第二纬纱采用弹力纱线。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，第一经纱和第二经纱的比例是2:1～1:3，第一经纱的纱支比第二经纱粗。
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，第二经纱和第二纬纱采用8枚3飞纬面缎纹。
  8. 根据权利要求1所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，第一经纱和第一纬纱采用3/1右斜纹。
  9. 根据权利要求1所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，第一经纱和第二经纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线、采用长丝加工而成的纱线、采用短纤维包覆弹力丝工成的弹性包芯纱、或采用长丝包覆弹力丝工成的弹性包芯纱；
    当第一经纱或第二经纱为短纤维加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为6S～60S；
    当第一经纱或第二经纱为长丝加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为40D～600D；
    当第一经纱或第二经纱为短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为6S～60S，弹力丝的范围为20D～300D；
    当第一经纱或第二经纱为短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为40D～600D，弹力丝的范围为20D～300D；
    第二经纱所采用的纱线与第一经纱相同或不同。
  10. 根据权利要求1所述的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，第一纬纱和第二纬纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线、采用长丝加工而成的纱线、采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱、或采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱；
    当第一纬纱或第二纬纱为短纤维加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为6S～60S；
    当第一纬纱或第二纬纱为长丝加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为40D～600D；
    当第一纬纱或第二纬纱为短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为6S～60S，弹力丝的范围为20D～300D；
    当第一纬纱或第二纬纱为长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为40D～600D，弹力丝的范围为20D～300D；
    第二纬纱所采用的纱线与第一纬纱相同或不同。
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