WO2021001638A1

WO2021001638A1 - Solid hydrating cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2021001638A1
Application number: PCT/FR2020/051178
Authority: WO
Inventors: Lina DUPUIS; Cyril GIBERT; Nathalie Dastbaz; Stéphane MASSON; Sarah SEBBAN ZNATY
Original assignee: Chanel Parfums Beaute
Priority date: 2019-07-03
Filing date: 2020-07-03
Publication date: 2021-01-07
Also published as: FR3098109A1; FR3098109B1

Abstract

The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising 5 to 45 % by weight of a fatty phase, 2 to 30 % by weight of at least one polyol, and 40 to 85 % by weight of a pulverulent phase comprising spherical fillers which are surface-treated with a metal soap. The invention also relates to a process for preparing such a solid cosmetic composition and to a process for applying makeup to the skin or the lips using said composition.

Description

Title: Solid moisturizing cosmetic composition

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising 5 to 45% by weight of a fatty phase, 2 to 30% by weight of at least one polyol, 0.1 to 5% by weight of a emulsifier, and 40 to 85% by weight of a pulverulent phase comprising spherical fillers treated at the surface with a metallic soap. The invention also relates to a process for preparing such a solid cosmetic composition and to a process for making up the skin or the lips using it.

Technical area

[0002] The dosage forms conventionally adopted for the solid compositions are generally free or compact powders. By way of illustration and without limitation of the solid dosage forms more particularly considered in the field of make-up, mention may in particular be made of powders for the complexion, blushers or eye shadow.

[0003] The aforementioned powders mainly have the function of providing color, mattness or even providing coverage. In general, the powders combine a largely predominant pulverulent phase with a fatty phase at least partly liquid constituting the binder and making it possible, in the context of compact powders, to ensure good cohesion of the pulverulent phase.

[0004] A pulverulent phase is essentially formed of fillers and coloring agents, the amount of the latter being modulated to provide the desired makeup effect, color, covering or mattifying. When the percentage of pulverulent phase in the product becomes too high, its manufacture and compacting become complicated or even impossible to achieve at an industrial level, taking into account the quality and productivity requirements. In addition, such solid compositions with a high content of pulverulent phase can have the drawback of being uncomfortable, too dry and too powdery and for some of being fragile, brittle, with poor impact resistance. Finally, large amounts of pulverulent phase in the compact powder do not give satisfactory sensory properties, making them difficult to disintegrate when removing the powder from its packaging ("pick-up") and / or to spread when applied to the surface of the skin to make up ("pay-off").

To obtain a composition in solid form, it is known to implement a compaction process ("dry process") consisting in mixing the pulverulent phase and the fatty phase and in compacting the resulting composition under high pressure in a housing . Alternatively, a process referred to as a “wet process” (or “slurry”) can be implemented to produce such compositions. In this type of process, the pulverulent phase and the fatty phase of said composition are placed in the presence of a volatile solvent so as to form a suspension, which is then pressed and the volatile solvent removed.

Whatever the process considered, the amount of fatty phase, and in particular of oils, generally does not exceed 10% of the composition so as to obtain good compacting of the powder via mechanical means, and also to avoid any overflow of the composition of the case. For these reasons, these galenics very often oblige formulators to limit the amount of fatty phase, and in particular of oil (s), so as to ensure good compacting of the powder.

[0007] When increasing the amount of fatty binder, the shaping of the solid composition by compacting therefore becomes complicated, if not impossible. To meet this industrial constraint, more pasty solid products, for example obtained by extrusion, have been proposed. However, in the presence of too high a content of binder phase, the composition has a tendency to wax, that is to say to harden during use, and becomes too dense to the point of preventing its removal and altering its properties. spread to the application.

[0008] In addition, the introduction of moisturizing raw materials such as polyols to improve the comfort and the sensory properties of the powders poses a double problem. On the one hand, these polyols are not easily miscible with the fatty phase and with the pulverulent phase of the powder, and their introduction into solid compositions is complicated to implement. On the other hand, the addition polyols such as glycerin impart tackiness to the composition, and alter its properties of disintegration and spreading.

We are still looking for moisturizing solid cosmetic compositions exhibiting good cohesion and good impact resistance, in particular which can be stored and transported freely by the user without crumbling or cracking, the texture of which allows disintegration. and easy application.

The Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that a composition exhibiting such properties, a priori not reconcilable, could be obtained by using, in a solid composition, a specific content of a particular liquid fatty phase, and a pulverulent phase at least in part treated at the surface with a metallic soap.

[0011] A subject of the invention is thus, according to a first aspect, a solid cosmetic composition comprising:

- 5 to 45%, preferably 10 to 35% by weight, of a fatty phase

- 2 to 30%, preferably 5 to 25% by weight of at least one polyol, and

- 40 to 85%, preferably 50 to 70% by weight of a pulverulent phase comprising spherical fillers treated at the surface with a metallic soap, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The subject of the invention is also a solid cosmetic composition comprising:

- 5 to 45%, preferably 10 to 35% by weight, of a fatty phase

- 2 to 30%, preferably 5 to 25% by weight of at least one polyol, and

- 40 to 85%, preferably 50 to 70% by weight of a pulverulent phase comprising spherical fillers treated at the surface with a metallic soap, and further comprising a lamellar filler treated at the surface with a metallic soap,

the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] A subject of the invention is also, according to a second aspect, a process for preparing such a composition, comprising:

- the premixing of the powders constituting the pulverulent phase

- the preparation of a fatty binder comprising the fatty phase and at least one polyol,

- pasting the powders with the fat binder by extrusion, and

- shaping of the composition by pressing. [0014] Advantageously, the fatty binder further comprises an emulsifier.

[0015] A further subject of the invention, according to a third aspect, is a process for making up the skin or the lips, consisting in applying to the skin or the lips such a moisturizing solid cosmetic composition.

[0016] Finally, the subject of the invention is the use of a solid cosmetic composition as described above for moisturizing the skin, in particular for providing moisturizing makeup.

[0017] Galenic

The composition according to the invention is solid, in that it does not flow under its own weight. It is preferably in the form of a pasty product, obtained by extrusion of a mixture of a pulverulent phase and a fatty phase, optionally in the presence of a volatile solvent which will be evaporated (“slurry” process). .

[0018] Oily phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile liquid fatty phase, that is to say a fatty phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil. The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase. The fatty phase may comprise a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one oil, volatile or non-volatile, and / or a solid fatty phase, comprising at least one wax and / or a pasty fatty substance and / or a lipophilic gelling agent.

The term “non-volatile oil” is understood to mean an oil which remains on the keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 ³ mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0020] The non-volatile oils can, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon-based and fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may in particular be made of:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,

- Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as linear C4 to C36 alkanes, preferably C11 -C21 such as phyto squalane or Emogreen L15 from SEPPIC (C15-19 alkane), or even such as phytostearyl esters , such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and sodium glutamate. lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and, in particular, of C18 to C36; these oils can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils can, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, passionflower, butter shea, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, oil baobab, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil , cottonseed oil, coconut oil, squash seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, oil corn, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, l 'evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, oil pumpkin e, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil (Helianthus Annuus seed oil), oil castor oil, and watermelon oil, ethyl olivate such as Vegeflow D10 innovation company and their mixtures, or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL,

- synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- Synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1 COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms on condition that R1 + R2 is> 10. The esters can be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol , such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearate stearate 'octyl, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactacte, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate , cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, benzoates of C12-C15 alcohols, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate octyldocecyl, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate;

- esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

- esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338,

- copolymers of dimer diol and dimer diacid and their esters, such as dilinoleyl diol / dilinoleic dimer dimer copolymers and their esters, such as, for example, Plandool-G,

- copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA,

- fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-blatyloctanol , and 2- undecylpentadecanol,

- higher fatty acids, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and mixtures thereof,

- di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC®, by COGNIS,

- oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, in particular, from approximately 650 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, in particular, from about 750 to about 7500 g / mol, and more particularly, varying from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol,

- silicone oils, such as phenylated silicones such as BELSIL PDM 1000 from the company WACIER (MM = 9000 g / mol) or non-phenylated silicone oils such as non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), PDMS comprising alkyl groups or alkoxy pendent and / or at the ends of a silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenol trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldisiliphénanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof,

the fluorinated oils which can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicon oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847752.

[0022] According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile liquid fatty phase comprises at least one non-volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils, non-phenyl silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0023] In particular, the non-volatile liquid fatty phase comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from squalane, caprylic and capric acid triglycerides, or mixtures thereof.

[0024] The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise a non-volatile liquid fatty phase, that is to say a fatty phase comprising at least one volatile oil.

[0025] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin fibers in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0, 13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ³ to 300 mm of Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).

In particular, the volatile liquid fatty phase can comprise at least one volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0027] The volatile oil can be hydrocarbon. The volatile hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms. As volatile hydrocarbon-based oil having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may in particular be made of branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane. and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil having 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and their mixtures, and is in particular isododecane.

[0028] The volatile oil can be a volatile linear alkane. According to one embodiment, an alkane suitable for the invention can be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms. Such a volatile linear alkane can advantageously be of plant origin. By way of example of alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/1068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and differing by at least a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. By way of example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C1 1), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 15505 from the company Cognis. We can also mention the mixture of n-undecane (C1 1) and n-tridecane (C13) sold by the company BASF under the name CETIOL ULTIMATE. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of the C9-C12 alkane marketed under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK by the company Biosynthis. It is possible to use the volatile linear alkane alone or preferably a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a carbon number n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number. of 1 or 2.

[0029] The volatile oil can be a volatile silicone oil such as cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof. As linear volatile polysiloxanes, mention may be made of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. As volatile cyclic polysiloxanes, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

[0030] As a variant or additionally, the composition produced can comprise at least one volatile fluorinated oil.

[0031] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from volatile liquid fatty phase, that is to say free from volatile oil. The term “volatile oil-free” means a composition comprising less than 3% by weight of volatile oil, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably comprising no volatile oil.

[0032] The composition according to the invention can also comprise a solid fatty phase, comprising at least one wax and / or a pasty fatty substance and / or a lipophilic gelling agent.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, of a solid fatty phase. [0034] Waxes

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one wax.

The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a higher melting point or equal to 30 ° C up to 120 ° C.

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than approximately 45 ° C., and in particular greater than 55 ° C. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

The waxes capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, which are solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

The wax can also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 ° C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2Î by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

It is in particular possible to use hydrocarbon waxes such as lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as their esters. A mixture of jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax is for example marketed under the reference ACTICIRE MP by the company GATTEFOSSE. In particular, the hydrocarbon waxes can be chosen from Carnauba wax, beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, C8-C32 ·

Among these, there may be mentioned in particular hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, tetrastearate. di- (trimethylol-1, 1, 1 propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di- (trimethylol-1, 1, 1 propane) tetrabhenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.

One can also use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names of Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

Silicone waxes can also be used, which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point. These silicone waxes are known or can be prepared according to known methods. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1 1 18-3 and 176-1 1481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC), alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428. 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C20-C60) alkyldimethicones, in particular (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.

It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.

The waxes can also be chosen from fluorinated waxes. According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention can comprise at least one wax called a sticky wax. As sticky wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used, alone or as a mixture, in particular a 12- (12'-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate. C20-C40 alkyl. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

According to a preferred embodiment, the waxes are chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, preferably chosen from Carnauba wax, beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, and their mixtures.

[0048] Pasty fatty substance

The solid fatty phase can also comprise a pasty, hydrocarbon-based, silicone and / or fluorinated fatty substance, or a mixture of these.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change exhibiting in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance can be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This fraction which is liquid at 23 ° C. preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from - 20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to - 20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from - 20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute . During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of pasty fatty substance is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23 ° C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to standard ISO 1 1357-3: 1999.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the quantity of energy necessary to change the pasty fatty substance from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it presents at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and of a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance, preferably from 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. When the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 32 ° C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

The pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from synthetic fatty substances and fatty substances of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained by synthesis from starting products of plant origin.

The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from:

- lanolin and its derivatives,

- polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers,

- fatty alcohol ethers and sugar ethers, and their mixtures of pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 EO) (CTFA name: PEG-5- Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylenated units (5 OP) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and their mixtures and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, marketed under the name “Lanolide »By the company VEVY, mixture in which the constituents are found in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46% of PEG5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% of soybean oil,

- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,

- fluorinated compounds, polymers or not,

- vinyl polymers, in particular homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes,

- fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-050, diols,

- esters,

and / or their mixtures. The pasty fatty substance is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon-based polymer.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, preference is given in particular to copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene-oxides, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene- oxide and / or propyleneoxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene-oxides arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a block copolymer of polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol such as ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol ) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) sold under the brand ELFACOS ST9 by AKZO NOBEL.

Among the esters, the following are preferred:

- esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular esters of diglycerol, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as acid stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the brand Softisan649 by the company SASOL,

- arachidyl propionate marketed under the brand Waxenol 801 by ALZO,

- phytosterol esters,

- fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives,

- pentaerythritol esters,

- esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s) with acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters can be chosen in particular from the esters of the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoléyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimerdilinoleate (Lusplan PI-DA, Lusplan PHY / IS-DA / phytosteryl), isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and mixtures thereof,

- mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN,

- hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, copra, palm and rapeseed, for example mixture marketed under the Akogel® reference by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil),

- shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the Sheasoft® reference by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN,

- cocoa butter, in particular that which is marketed under the name CT COCOA BUTTER DEODORIZED by the company DUTCH COCOA BV or that which is marketed under the name BURRE DE CACAO NCB HD703 758 by the company BARRY CALLEBAUT;

- shorea butter, in particular that marketed under the name DUB SHOREA T by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS;

and their mixtures.

[0065] Lipophilic gelling agents

In addition to the waxes, the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent, for example constituted by copolymers of styrene and of olefins such as ethylene, propylene and / or butylene, optionally combined with silicone solvents or hydrocarbons, as described in particular in application WO 98/38981 and in patent US Pat. No. 6,309,629, or copolymers of styrene and of butadiene such as those sold under the reference OleaoFLEX EG 200 by the company Applechem. They include the block terpolymers based gelling available from Penreco under the VERSAGEL ^® trade name. Another type of lipophilic gelling agent consists of polyamides such as those identified by the INCI name polyamide-3 and in particular the SYLVACLEAR ^® AF 1900V and PA 1200V polymers available from the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL as well as those identified by the INCI name "Ethylenediamine / Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkyl Amide ”and available for example under the trade name SYLVACLEAR ^® A200V or SYLVACLEAR ^® A2614V from the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL. The lipophilic gelling agent may alternatively be a hydrophobic modified bentone or hectorite. The gelling agent for the oils can also be a polyurethane gelling agent, preferably of natural origin such as a castor oil derivative available for example under the trade name EstoGel® M by the company Polymerexpert.

[0066] Pulverulent phase

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one pulverulent phase comprising spherical fillers treated at the surface with a metallic soap. The pulverulent phase can also comprise a lamellar filler treated at the surface with a metallic soap. The pulverulent phase can preferably also comprise nacres and / or pigments, optionally treated at the surface with a metallic soap.

[0067] Surface treatment

The pulverulent phase used in the compositions according to the invention is at least partially treated at the surface with a metallic soap.

In particular, the pulverulent phase comprises at least spherical and / or lamellar fillers treated at the surface with a metallic soap.

In particular, the metallic soap is a soap of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The metal of the metallic soap is for its part preferably chosen from zinc and magnesium.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the metallic soap is chosen from zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably, the metallic soap is magnesium stearate.

[0072] Charges

The pulverulent phase comprises at least one spherical filler treated at the surface with a metallic soap. The spherical charges are advantageously chosen from:

- silica powders;

- powders of acrylic (co) polymers, and their derivatives, in particular powders of acrylate (co) polymer, and their derivatives, advantageously chosen from a powder of polymethyl methacrylate, a powder of polymethyl methacrylate / di methacrylate ethylene glycol, polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder, optionally crosslinked acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymer powder, hollow particles of (co-) expanded acrylonitrile polymer, and their mixture (s);

- polyurethane powders;

- Silicone powders advantageously chosen from a powder of polymethylsilsesquioxane, of organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silicone resin, a powder of organosilicon particles;

- polyamide powders, such as Nylon®, in particular Nylon 12;

- cellulose powders, such as Cellulobeads D5, D10, D50 and D100 sold by the company Daito,

and their mixture (s).

The pulverulent phase can further comprise a lamellar filler treated at the surface with a metallic soap. Among the lamellar fillers, mention may be made of talc, natural or synthetic mica, certain silicas, clays such as magnesium and aluminum silicate, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate and 'magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorphlogopite, perlite powders, N-Lauroyl Lysine powder, sericite, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, and their mixture (s) (s).

Among the lamellar fillers, preferred are talc, natural or synthetic mica, certain silicas, clays such as magnesium and aluminum silicate, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, fluorphlogopite, perlite powders, N-Lauroyl Lysine powder, sericite, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, and their mixture (s).

The pulverulent phase can further comprise other mineral or organic fillers of any shape, lamellar, spherical (or hemispherical), regardless of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.).

According to a preferred embodiment, the pulverulent phase comprises lamellar and spherical fillers in a lamellar / spherical ratio ranging from 1/10 to 10/1, preferably from 1/5 to 9/1. This ratio is a weight ratio.

The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored particles, inorganic or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.

The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.

[0080] The pigment can be an organic pigment. By organic pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane.

The organic pigment (s) can be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments. codified in the Color Index under the references C1 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 1 1680, 1 1710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21 100, 21 108 , 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CM 1725, 15510,45370, 71 105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as they are described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the attachment of the organic pigments to the core.

The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. As examples of lakes, mention may be made of the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (Cl 15 850: 1).

The pigment can be an inorganic pigment. By inorganic pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the inorganic pigments useful in the present invention, the oxides of zirconium or of cerium, as well as the oxides of zinc, of iron (black, yellow or red) or of chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue. , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following inorganic pigments can also be used: Ti ₂ 0 ₅ , Ti ₃ 0 ₅ , Ti ₂ 0 ₃ , TiO, Zr0 ₂ as a mixture with TiC0 ₂ , Zr0 ₂ , Nb ₂ 0 ₅ , Ce0 ₂ , ZnS.

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 10 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 5 μm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 1 μm.

[0086] The coloring agent can also be a soluble dye, preferably water soluble.

Among the dyes soluble in water, mention may be made of cochineal carmine or the products known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D & C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D & C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D & C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D & C Red 33 ( Cl 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985). D & C Green (Cl 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77 002), D & C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).

The nacres can be chosen from those conventionally present in make-up products, such as mica / titanium dioxide. As a variant, they may be nacres based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorphlogopite / titanium dioxide (SUNSHINE ^® from MAPRECOS), calcium sodium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (REFLECKS ^® from ENGELHARD) or calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (RONASTAR ^® from MERCK). The composition according to the invention comprises from 40 to 85% by weight of pulverulent phase, preferably from 50 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0090] Polvols

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one polyol.

The term “polyol” is understood to mean any organic molecule having in its structure at least 2 free hydroxy (—OH) groups. These polyols are preferably liquid at room temperature (25 ° C).

By way of example of polyols suitable for use in the composition can be chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols (PEG) having in particular from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units and / or sorbitol.

Preferably, the polyol is glycerol.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 2 to 30% by weight of polyols, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Emulsifying agent

The composition according to the invention can, according to a preferred embodiment, also comprise an emulsifying agent. These emulsifying agents can be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants or else polymeric surfactants.

According to one embodiment, the surfactants which can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from nonionic surfactants of HLB of between 8 and 20 at 25 ° C. We can cite in particular:

- esters and ethers of ose such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols, such as Montanov 68 from Seppic;

- oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol;

- oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C8 -C24 alcohol, and preferably of C12 -C18) such as oxyethylene ether cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), the oxyethylene ether of the mixture of C12- C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth-7”) in particular sold under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS

- fatty acid esters (in particular of C8 -C24 acid, and preferably of C16 -C22) and of polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units) such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate in particular, marketed under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company ICI UNIQUEMA, or else PEG-30 glyceryl stearate in particular marketed under the name TAGAT S® by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT;

- fatty acid esters (in particular of C8 -C24, and preferably C16 -C22) acid and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate, in particular sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT S® product sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT O® product sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC Ll 13® sold by the company SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT L® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate containing 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT I® from the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT,

- fatty acid esters (in particular of C8 -C24, and preferably C16 -C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate 20 in particular sold under the name Tween 20® by the company CRODA, polysorbate 60 in particular sold under the name Tween 60® by the company CRODA,

- dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by the company DOW CORNING,

- dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 101® and 201® from the company

FINTEX),

- copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide, also called EO / PO polycondensates

- lysophospholipids, in particular lysophosphatidylcholine of the following formula [CHEM1]:

[0098] [Chem. 1]

Where R is a fatty acid chain, comprising in particular from 10 to 25 carbon atoms, preferably from 15 to 20. Preferably, the lysophospholipid used in the composition of the invention is obtained from soybeans. More preferably, it has the INCI name glycine soya (soybean) seed extract. For example, we use the mixture of glycerin at 80% by weight and glycine soybean (soybean) seed extract at 20% by weight marketed by Kemin under the name Lysofix Liquid®;

- emulsifying waxes such as the self-emulsifying wax sold under the name Polawax NF by Croda, or the PEG-8 beeswax sold under the name Apifil by Gattefossé,

and their mixtures.

[0100] According to a preferred embodiment, the HLB emulsifier of between 8 and 20 is chosen from fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] Lysophospholipids such as Lysofix Liquid® allow the composition to thicken.

[0102] According to one embodiment, the surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C. We can cite in particular:

- esters and ethers of ose such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate and mixtures thereof, such as Arlatone 2121® sold by the company ICI;

- oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C8 -C24 alcohol, and preferably of C12 -C18) such as oxyethylene ether stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “Steareth-2”);

- esters of fatty acids (in particular of C8 -C24 acid, and preferably of C16 C22) and of polyol, in particular of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name TEGIN M® by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312® by the company HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, sorbitan tristearate, ricinoleate glyceryl;

- Lecithins, such as soya lecithins (such as Emulmetik 100 J from Cargill, or Biophilic H from Lucas Meyer);

- silicone emulsifiers.

The silicone emulsifier which can be used in the composition according to the invention is a siloxane polymer comprising: - a fatty side chain,

- an oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated side chain and / or a polyethoxylated side chain (= glyceryl), and optionally

- a silicone side chain.

[0104] The fatty side chain of the silicone emulsifier makes it possible to have good compatibility with the fatty phase of the water-in-oil emulsion. The silicone side chain makes it possible to have good compatibility with the non-volatile silicone oil, when the non-volatile oil of the cosmetic emulsion of the invention is a silicone oil. According to one embodiment of the invention, the silicone emulsifier comprises a fatty side chain and a silicone side chain.

[0105] More particularly according to the invention, the silicone emulsifier is chosen from the group comprising:

- the compound of formula [CHEM2] below in which w is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, x 'is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, x, y and z represent, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 100 :

[0106] [Chem. 2]

- the compound of formula [CHEM3] below in which x1 is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, w1 is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, y1 and z1 represent, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 1 to 100:

[0108] [Chem. 3] [0109] the compound of the following formula [CHEM4] in which w2 is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, v2 is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, x2, y2 and z2 represent, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 100 :

[0110] [Chem. 4]

[0111] the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the company DOW CORNING,

and their mixtures. [0112] According to a particular embodiment, the silicone emulsifier is chosen from the group comprising the siloxane polymers sold by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KF6038, KF6104, KF6105, KF6106 and their mixtures.

The compound KF6038, having the INCI name "Lauryl PEG-9

Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone ”corresponds to the general formula (I). This siloxane polymer comprises a silicone side chain, an oxyethylenated side chain and a fatty side chain (lauryl).

The compound KF6104, having the INCI name "Polyglyceryl-3

Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone ”, and the compound KF6106, having the INCI name“ Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone ”correspond to the general formula (II). This siloxane polymer comprises a silicone side chain and a glyceryl side chain.

The compound KF6105, having the INCI name "Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone" corresponds to the general formula (III). This siloxane polymer comprises a silicone side chain, a glyceryl side chain and a fatty side chain (lauryl).

In a preferred embodiment, in particular when the composition comprises silicone oils, the surfactant is chosen from silicone surfactants such as compound KF6028 or compound KF6038 or a mixture thereof.

The silicone emulsifier is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5%, preferably from 1% to 3%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the weight total composition.

In a preferred embodiment, in particular when the composition comprises hydrocarbon oils, the surfactant is chosen from non-silicone surfactants, preferably polysorbate 20.

The composition according to the invention may contain from 0.1 to 5% by weight of emulsifying agent, relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight. [0120] Film-forming polymer

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one film-forming polymer.

Among the film-forming polymers which can be used in the compositions of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

The term “radical film-forming polymer” means a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers containing in particular ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The free-radical type film-forming polymers can in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.

As monomer carrying an acid group, it is possible to use unsaturated α, β-ethylenic carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. Use is preferably made of (meth) acrylic acid, itaconic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably itaconic acid (for example a metal salt of poly (itaconic acid) such as that marketed under the trade reference REVCARE. NE 100S by the company Itaconix).

The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular of C1 - alkyl. C30, preferably C1-C20, aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

Mention may be made, among alkyl (meth) acrylates, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate and methacrylate. isobutyl, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

[0129] Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

Particularly preferred esters of (meth) acrylic acid are alkyl (meth) acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms. .

As amides of acidic monomers, mention may be made, for example, of (meth) acrylamides, and in particular of N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C2-C12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

[0133] The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

As example of vinyl esters, there may be mentioned vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

As styrene monomers, there may be mentioned styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

Mention may also be made of styrene / butadiene block copolymers such as the products from the company Kraton, or the OLEOFLEX EG 200 from the company APPLECHEM. Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

The polyurethanes can be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, poly-urethanes-polyvinylpirrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes , and their mixtures.

Polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

[0140] The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids that may be mentioned include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, acid 2,2 -dimethylglutaric, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1, 3- acid cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.

The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. A diol chosen from among: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol and 4-butanediol is preferably used. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane can be used.

Polyesters amides can be obtained in a manner analogous to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amine alcohols. As diamine, ethylenediamine can be used, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine. As the aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used. As polyamide resins, there may also be mentioned that corresponding to the name INCI DIISOSTEARYL MALATE & BIS DIOCTADECYLAMIDE DIMER DILINOLEIC ACID / ETHYLENE DIAMINE COPOLYMER marketed under the name of Haimalate PAM by the company Kokyu alcohol Kogyo.

The polyester can also comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO3M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4 + or a metal ion, such as for example an Na +, Li +, K + ion, Mg2 +, Ca2 +, Cu2 +, Fe2 +, Fe3 +. It is in particular possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a —SO3M group.

The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally bearing a —SO3M group as described above can be chosen, for example, from the benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl and sulfonyldiphenyl rings. methylenediphenyl. As an example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing a —SO3M group, there may be mentioned: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

It is possible to use copolymers based on isophthalate / sulphoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulphoisophthalic acid.

The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, can be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, arabic gum (ACACIA SENEGAL GUM), dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, polymers. extracts of the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or of the alga Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the Filmexel® product sold by the company Silab), and mixtures thereof. A natural polymer such as Filmexel® makes it possible in particular to improve the hold of the film obtained from the composition according to the invention. Mention may also be made of the film-forming polymers corresponding to the INCI name SHOERA ROBUSTA RESIN + BEESWAX, SHOERA ROBUSTA RESIN + SUNFLOWER OIL, ARAUCARIA + SUNFLOWER OIL, ARAUCARIA + CASTOR OIL, SHOERA ROBUSTA + OCTYLDODECANOL

[0147] According to one embodiment, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved in a liquid fatty phase comprising oils or organic solvents (the film-forming polymer is then said to be a liposoluble polymer).

By way of example of a liposoluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear hydrocarbon radical. or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkylvinylether (whose alkyl group contains from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allylic or methallyl ester (having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group).

These copolymers can be crosslinked using crosslinkers which can be either of the vinyl type, or of the allylic or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.

As examples of these copolymers, mention may be made of the copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate. vinyl / octadecylvinylether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether , vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, dimethyl propionate vinyl allyl / stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether , crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / steara allyl te, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers, mention may also be made of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of acrylates or of alkyl methacrylates, the allyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0152] Such fat-soluble copolymers can be chosen from copolymers of vinyl polystearate, of vinyl polystearate crosslinked with the aid of divinylbenzene, of diallyl ether or of diallyl phthalate, copolymers of poly (meth) acrylate of stearyl, of polyvinyl laurate, poly (meth) acrylate lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates can be crosslinked using methylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

Mention may also be made of liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

As examples of fat-soluble homopolymers, mention may be made in particular of: polyvinyl laurate and poly (meth) acrylates of lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates possibly being crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of tetraethylene glycol.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 alkyl radical. to C8 like ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 alkene and better still to C3 to C20. By way of example of a VP copolymer which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene (ANTARON V220 sold by the company Ashland), VP / hexadecene (ANTARON V216 sold by the company Ashland), VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

Mention may also be made of dextrin esters and in particular:

- dextrin isostearate & isostearic acid marketed under the name UNIFILMA HVY by the company Chiba Flour Milling

- dextrin palmitate / ethylhexanoate marketed under the name RHEOPEARL TT by the company Chiba Flour Milling

- Dextrin Myristate marketed under the name RHEOPEARL MKL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling

Mention may also be made of sugar esters and in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate sold under the name EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB by the company EASTMAN.

Mention may also be made of silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name “MDTQ”, the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters “MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.

As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those marketed by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK, and by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L. , or silform fleible resin.

As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins marketed in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name “KF-7312J” by the company Shin-Etsu, “DOWSIL ™ RSN-0749”, “DOWSIL ™ 593 Fluid” by the company Dow Corning.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of silicone resins such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold by the company Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA and described in document US Pat. 5,162,410 or also silicone copolymers resulting from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and of a diorganosiloxane such as described in document WO 2004/073626.

It is also possible to use copolymers with a non-silicone organic backbone grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane unit, such as for example the butyl acrylate / hydroxypropyl dimethicone acrylate copolymer marketed under the name GRANACRYSIL BAS by the company GRANT.

Finally, mention may be made of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers comprising a dendrimeric carbosiloxane structure grafted onto a vinyl backbone available commercially under the references DOW CORNING FA 4002 ID or DOW CORNING FA 4001 CM.

It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5. , 874,069, US-A-5, 919,441, US-A-6,051, 216 and US-A-5, 981, 680.

[0166] Silicone elastomers

The composition according to the invention can also comprise a silicone elastomer.

Among these, there may be mentioned the at least partially crosslinked polymers resulting from the reaction of an organopolysiloxane bearing unsaturated groups, such as vinyl or allyl groups, located at the end or in the middle of the chain, preferably on a silicon atom, with another reactive silicone compound such as an organohydrogenpolysiloxane. These polymers are usually available in the form of a gel in a volatile or non-volatile silicone solvent or in a hydrocarbon solvent. Examples of such elastomers are marketed in particular by the company SHIN ETSU under the names KSG-6, KSG-16, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44, and by the company DOW CORNING under the trade names DOWSIL ™ 9040 and DOWSIL ™ 9041 Another oily gelling agent consists of a silicone polymer obtained by self-polymerization of an organopolysiloxane functionalized by epoxy and hydrosilyl groups, in the presence of a catalyst, which is commercially available from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. under the trade name VELVESIL ^® 125. Another lipophilic gelling agent consists of a cyclic dimethicone / vinyldimethicone copolymer such as that sold by the company JEEN under the trade name JEESILC ^® PS (including PS-VH, PS-VHLV, PS-CM , PS-CMLV and PS-DM).

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone elastomer can be an emulsifier, preferably chosen from polyoxyalkylenated and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.

As polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, mention may be made of those described in patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793, US5811487.

As polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, the following can be used: those of the INCI name PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names "KSG-21", "KSG-20", by Shin Etsu; - those of INCI name Lauryl PEG- 15 Dimethicone / Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer: like those marketed under the names "KSG-30" and "KSG-31", KSG-32 "(in isododecane)," KSG-33 "(in trioctanoine), "KSG-210", "KSG-310" (in mineral oil), "KSG-320" (in isododecane), "KSG-330", "KSG-340" by the company Shin Etsu .

As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, the following can be used: - those with the INCI name Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names "KSG-710" by Shin Etsu; those with the INCI name Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names “KSG-840” (in squalene) by the company Shin Etsu.

[0172] Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention can also comprise an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally at least one water soluble solvent other than the polyols described above.

The term “solvent soluble in water” denotes in the present invention a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure. ).

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of mono-alcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, and C3- ketones. C4 and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes.

[0176] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from water.

[0177] Cosmetic active

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient, which can be chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, anti-pollution agents, keratolytic agents, astringents, anti-inflammatory agents. , whitening agents, self-tanners and agents promoting microcirculation.

[0178] Examples of vitamins include vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, C and E and their derivatives, pantothenic acid and its derivatives and biotin.

[0179] Examples of antioxidants include ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl sorbate. ; tocopherol and its derivatives, such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol sorbate and other tocopherol esters; BHT and BHA; esters of gallic acid, phosphoric acid, citric acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, cephalin, hexametaphosphate, phytic acid, and plant extracts, for example from the roots of Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) such as the Blue Malagasy Ginger marketed by the company BIOLANDES, of Chondrus crispus, Rhodiola, Thermus thermophilus, mate leaf, oak wood, Rapet Kayu bark, Sakura leaves and ylang ylang leaves.

[0180] Examples of hydrating agents include polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol, mucopolysaccharides, such as chondroitin sulfuric acid, l high or low molecular weight hyaluronic acid or alternatively hyaluronic acid potentiated by a silanol derivative such as the active Epidermosil ^® marketed by the company Exymol, and mucoitinsulphuric acid; caronic acid; atelo collagen; chloresteryl-12-hydroxystearate; bile salts, a major component of NHF (natural hydration factor) such as a salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and a salt of lactic acid, an amino acid analogue such as urea, cysteine and serine ; short chain soluble collagen, diglycerin PPGs, 2-methacryloyloxyethylphosphorylcholine homo- and copolymers such as Lipidure HM and Lipidure PBM of NOF; allantoin; glycerin derivatives such as PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin NOF sold under the trade name Wilbride ^® S753 or the glyceryl polymethacrylate Sederma sold under the trademark Lubragel MS ^®; trimethylglycine sold under the trade name Aminocoat ^® by the company Ashahi Kasei Chemicals and various plant extracts such as extracts of Castanea sativa, hydrolyzed hazelnut proteins, polysaccharides of Tuberosa Polyanthes, kernel oil of Argania spinosa and mother-of-pearl extracts containing a conchyolin which are sold in particular by the company Maruzen (Japan) under the trade name Pearl Extract®.

[0181] Other examples of moisturizing agents include compounds which stimulate the expression of MT / SP1 matriptase, such as an extract of carob bean pulp, as well as agents which stimulate the expression of CERT, of ARNT2 or of FN3K or FN3K RP; agents increasing the proliferation or differentiation of keratinocytes, either directly or indirectly by stimulating, for example, the production of b-endorphins, such as extracts of Thermus thermophilus or of Theobroma cacao bean hulls, water-soluble extracts of maize, peptide extracts of Voandzeia subterranea and niacinamide; epidermal lipids and agents increasing the synthesis of epidermal lipids, either directly or by stimulating certain β-glucosidases which modulate the deglycosylation of lipid precursors such as glucosylceramide to ceramides, such as phospholipids, ceramides, lupine protein hydrolysates and derivatives of dihydrojasmonic acid.

[0182] Examples of anti-pollution agents include extract of seeds of Moringa pterygosperma (eg Purisoft ^® from LSN); shea butter extract (eg Detoxyl ^® from Silab), a mixture of ivy extract, phytic acid, sunflower seed extract (eg Osmopur ^® from Sederma).

[0183] Examples of keratolytic agents include α-hydroxy acids (for example glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, mandelic, or tartaric acids) and b-hydroxy acids (for example salicylic acid), and their esters, such as C12-13 alkyl lactates, and plant extracts containing these hydroxy acids, such as extracts of Hibiscus sabdriffa.

[0184] Examples of astringents include extracts of witch hazel.

[0185] Examples of anti-inflammatory agents include bisabolol, allantoin, tranexamic acid, zinc oxide, sulfur oxide and its derivatives, chondroitin sulfate, glycyrrhizinic acid and its derivatives. derivatives such as glycyrrhizinates.

[0186] Examples of bleaching agents include arbutin and its derivatives, ferulic acid (such as Cytovector®: water, glycol, lecithin, ferulic acid, hydroxyethylcellulose, marketed by BASF) and its derivatives, acid kojic, resorcinol, lipoic acid and its derivatives such as resveratrol diacetate monolipoate as described in patent application WO2006134282, ellagic acid, leucodopachrome and its derivatives, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologues, a peptide as described in patent application WO2009010356, a bioprecursor as described in patent application WO2006134282 or a tranexamate salt such as the hydrochloride salt of cetyl tranexamate, a liquorice extract (extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra), which is sold in particular by the company Maruzen under the trade name Licorice extract®, a bleaching agent also having a antioxidant, such as vitamin C compounds, including ascorbate salts, ascorbyl esters of fatty acids or sorbic acid, and other derivatives of ascorbic acid, for example, ascorbyl phosphates, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, or ascorbic acid saccharide esters, which include, for example, ascorbyl-2-glucoside, 2-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbate , or 6-O-beta-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbate. An active agent of this type is sold especially by the company DKSH under the trade name Ascorbyl glucoside ^®.

[0187] An example of a self-tanner is DHA.

[0188] Examples of agents promoting microcirculation include an extract of lupine (such as Eclaline ^® from Silab), ruscus, horse chestnut, ivy, ginseng or sweet clover, caffeine, nicotinate. and its derivatives, a seaweed extract of Corallina officinalis such as that marketed by CODIF; and their mixtures. These agents which are active on the skin microcirculation can be used to prevent dulling of the complexion and / or to improve the uniformity and radiance of the complexion.

[0189] Additives

The composition according to the invention can comprise other ingredients as long as they do not interfere with the desired properties of the composition. These other ingredients can for example be preservatives, pH adjusters such as citric acid or arginine, antimicrobial agents, perfumes, sun filters, and mixtures thereof.

[0190] Preparation process

[0191] A subject of the present invention is also a process for preparing a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising:

- the premixing of the powders constituting the pulverulent phase

- the preparation of a fatty binder comprising the fatty phase

- pasting the powders with the fat binder by extrusion, and

- shaping of the composition by pressing.

[0192] Process for making up keratin materials The present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin or the lips, consisting in applying to the skin or the lips a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention.

Example

[0194] Complexion powders

Solid moisturizing foundation powders were prepared having the composition shown in the following Table 1.

[0195] [Table 1]

The fatty binder was then prepared comprising the fatty phase (liquid and solid), the glycerin and the emulsifier. The powders were pasted with the fat binder by extrusion.

The compositions were then shaped by pressing.

The complexion powders obtained exhibit good cohesion and good impact resistance. In particular, they can be stored and transported without crumbling or cracking. Their texture is moisturizing and allows easy disintegration and application.

Claims

[Claim 1] A solid cosmetic composition comprising:

- 5 to 45% by weight of a fatty phase

- 2 to 30% by weight of at least one polyol, and

- 40 to 85% by weight of a pulverulent phase comprising spherical fillers treated at the surface with a metallic soap,

[Claim 2] Solid cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the pulverulent phase further comprises a lamellar filler treated at the surface with a metallic soap.

[Claim 3] A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, further comprising 0.1 to 5% by weight of an emulsifier, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 4] Solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises:

- 10 to 35% by weight of said fatty phase

- 5 to 25% by weight of said polyol,

- 1 to 3% by weight of said emulsifier,

- 50 to 70% by weight of said pulverulent phase

[Claim 5] Solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pulverulent phase comprises lamellar and spherical fillers in a lamellar / spherical ratio ranging from 1/10 to 10/1, preferably from 1 / 5 to 9/1.

[Claim 6] Solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pulverulent phase comprises nacres and / or pigments.

[Claim 7] Solid cosmetic composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that the nacres and / or the pigments are surface treated with a metallic soap.

[Claim 8] Solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the metallic soap is a soap of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[Claim 9] A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the metal of the metallic soap is zinc or magnesium.

[Claim 10] Solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the metallic soap is chosen from zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably, the metallic soap is magnesium stearate.

[Claim 11] Solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises a solid fatty phase and a liquid fatty phase, in particular a non-volatile liquid fatty phase.

[Claim 12] Solid cosmetic composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the non-volatile liquid fatty phase comprises at least one non-volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils, non-phenyl silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 13] A solid cosmetic composition according to claim 12, characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from squalane, caprylic and capric acid triglycerides or their mixtures.

[Claim 14] Solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free from volatile liquid fatty phase.

[Claim 15] A solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free from water.

[Claim 16] Solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols (PEG) having in particular from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units and / or sorbitol, and preferably, the polyol is glycerol.

[Claim 17] Solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a film-forming polymer.

[Claim 18] Solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a silicone elastomer.

[Claim 19] A process for preparing a solid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising:

- the premixing of the powders constituting the pulverulent phase

- the preparation of a fatty binder comprising the fatty phase and at least one polyol

- pasting the powders with the fat binder by extrusion, and

- shaping of the composition by pressing.

[Claim 20] A method of making up the skin or the lips, consisting in applying to the skin or the lips a solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18.

[Claim 21] Use of a solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 for moisturizing the skin, in particular for providing moisturizing makeup.