WO2020225173A1

WO2020225173A1 - Low-viscosity cosmetic preparation

Info

Publication number: WO2020225173A1
Application number: PCT/EP2020/062239
Authority: WO
Inventors: Dana Bölke; Janina MAU; Svenja Lena Möllgaard
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2019-05-08
Filing date: 2020-05-04
Publication date: 2020-11-12
Also published as: DE102019206576A1; EP3965723A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a low-viscosity cosmetic preparation.

Description

Thin-liquid cosmetic preparations

Cosmetic products in general not only serve to be beautiful and attractive

look, but with their effect they make a decisive contribution to increased self-esteem and people's well-being. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for daily cleaning and care of the

used in human skin.

A known form of cosmetic preparations are low-viscosity cosmetic preparations which are applied to the facial skin after it has been cleansed. A conventional skin moisturizing agent is then applied

Day care cream.

The use of the thin-bodied cosmetic preparation between the washing process and the application of the day care is used in particular to supply the skin with moisture and thus prepare it for the subsequent care step.

When developing low-viscosity cosmetic preparations for use after facial cleansing, cosmetic companies initially focus on providing preparations that make the skin look energetic, healthier and hydrated after use. As a result, the skin not only appears supple and soft, but also feels noticeably cared for and tension-free.

In addition to these aspects, the visual appearance of a cosmetic product often decides whether the consumer buys this product a second time or decides on a different product. Consequently, in addition to the care aspects, it is crucial that the product is also visually appealing or different

has unique selling points. The impression of the consumer regarding the

has or perceives a hydrating effect is often supported by a transparent appearance of the cosmetic preparation or by the use of an extravagant packaging material. Such products are known, inter alia, from the product Bioeffekt Serum listed in the Mintel database with the entry number 5828357.

However, the fact that such cosmetic preparations exist should not obscure the fact that there is still a need for preparations with special optical aspects.

It has now surprisingly been found that the low-viscosity preparations of the present invention are surprisingly able to better stabilize air bubbles that are suspended in it by shaking the preparation, so that they remain within the preparation for longer and do not immediately bubble out of it. It was particularly surprising that such stabilization is possible, since mostly preparations must be significantly more viscous in order to stabilize air bubbles within the preparation.

Furthermore, it was surprising that the air bubbles which were suspended in the preparation by shaking the preparation are particularly small and finely distributed. Preparations not according to the invention show significantly larger air bubbles and a less uniform suspension.

The air bubbles obtained and stabilized for a longer period make it possible to provide an exceptional cosmetic product which is of interest to the consumer.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic acrylate-free preparation comprising xanthan gum and having a viscosity at 25 ° C. in the range from 30 to 150 mPa · s.

The invention also relates to the use of xanthan gum for stabilizing suspended air bubbles in a cosmetic, acrylate-free preparation having a viscosity at 25 ° C. in the range from 30 to 150 mPa.s.

If weight percentages (% by weight) are given below without reference to a certain composition or specific mixture, then this information always relates to the total weight of the cosmetic

Cleaning preparation. Should proportions of

Components / substances / groups of substances are disclosed, then these relate Ratios to weight ratios of the components mentioned /

Substances / groups of substances.

The formulations “according to the invention”, “advantageous according to the invention”, “advantageous within the meaning of the present invention” etc. always relate in the context of the present disclosure to both the preparation according to the invention and the preparation according to the invention

Use.

The phrase “acrylate-free” means that the preparation of the invention does not contain any polymers which have been obtained from homo- or copolymerization with acrylic and / or methacrylic acid.

Unless otherwise stated, all tests were carried out under normal conditions

carried out. The term “normal conditions” means 20 ° C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

If the term skin is used, it preferably refers to human skin.

If viscosity values are given in this disclosure, then all values relate to a measurement at 25 ° C in a 150 ml wide neck bottle (VWR no .: 807-001) using Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, ie a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force is measured that is required to make the measuring body rotate in the sample at a specified speed. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. The measuring body no.3 (article no. 200 0193), suitable for a viscosity range up to 1000 mPa-s, speed range 62.5 mim ¹ , is used. Unless otherwise specified, the viscosity measurement is always carried out 24 hours after the preparation has been made.

The term “stabilization of air bubbles” is understood according to the invention to mean that the air bubbles remain suspended in the preparation over a longer period and do not simply bubble out of it.

The cosmetic preparation according to the invention is characterized in that it contains xanthan gum. The proportion of xanthan gum is advantageously from 0.05 to 0.45 % By weight, preferably from 0.075 to 0.3% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.09 to 0.23% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.

Advantageous cosmetic preparations of the invention are also thereby

labeled as containing PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. If the preparation contains PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, the proportion of PEG-40 is

Hydrogenated castor oil advantageously from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 1 to 2.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the cosmetic

Preparation contains ethanol. If the cosmetic preparation contains ethanol, it is advantageous if the proportion of ethanol is from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably 6 to 10% by weight, and particularly preferably 6.5 to 9% by weight, the Information refer to the total weight of the preparation.

Advantageous preparations are also characterized in that they contain at least 8% by weight of glycerol, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight and particularly preferably from 17.5 to 21% by weight of glycerol, the information relating to the total weight the preparation relates.

It is also advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic preparation contains 1,2-hexanediol and / or phenoxyethanol, it being furthermore advantageous if the total proportion of 1,2-hexanediol and / or phenoxyethanol is 0.5 to 1.8 wt .-%, in particular from 0.8 to 1.5% by weight, the weight fraction in each case being based on the total weight of the preparation. Furthermore, embodiments of the invention are preferred which additionally contain 1,2-hexanediol and phenoxyethanol in a weight ratio of 1: 1.5 to 1: 1.8.

According to the invention, the preparation of the invention advantageously contains water as a cosmetic carrier, the proportion of water being preferably from 60% by weight to 80% by weight and particularly preferably from 66% by weight to 71% by weight, the The information relates to the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.

Furthermore, the cosmetic preparations according to the invention are advantageously characterized in that they contain at least one oil component that is liquid at 20.degree. The proportion of the oil components that are liquid at 20 ° C. is advantageously from 0.01 to 0.8 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.15 to 0.3% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.

It has surprisingly been found that the specific choice of certain oil components made it possible to improve further properties of the preparation. If one compares the transmission of preparations according to the invention at 420 nm in comparison with water, it was surprisingly found that the turbidity of the preparation can be decisively influenced by the choice of the oil component according to the invention.

According to the invention it is preferred if the oil component is a silicone-free one

Oil component is selected. Silicone-free is understood to mean that the oil advantageously contained according to the invention has no siloxane units. If a silicone-free or siloxane-free oil was selected as the oil, a less cloudy preparation could be obtained.

Consequently, a preparation is also preferred if it is one that is liquid at 20 ° C

Contains oil component which has no siloxane units and at the same time no silicone oil is included, it being furthermore advantageous if the proportion of the oil components which are liquid at 20 ° C. is from 0.01 to 0.8% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.15 to 0.3% by weight, the% by weight data being based on the total weight of the preparation.

Oils from the group cocoglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides, octyldodecanol, ethylhexyl stearate and coco-caprylate / caprate are preferred as the oil component, the use of cocoglycerides, octyldodecanol and / or coco-caprylate / caprate being particularly preferred.

The preparations with cocoglycerides, octyldodecanol and / or coco-caprylate / caprate surprisingly showed a transmission in reference to pure deionized water of more than 90% at 420 nm.

Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if no other polymers are contained in addition to xanthan gum.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparation does not contain any further celluloses. It is also advantageous if the cosmetic preparation contains one or more active ingredients selected from the group consisting of sodium hyaluronate, aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, ubiquinone, ascorbyl phosphate, creatine, creatinine and / or tocopheryl acetate. When adding these substances, advantageously in a maximum total proportion of up to 0.4% by weight, preferably up to 0.3% by weight, particularly advantageous results were achieved according to the invention.

It is also advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic preparation does not contain any further surfactants or emulsifiers.

Emulsifiers are understood to mean all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the designation “emulsifying agent”. Everyone is under surfactants

Understood substances that are in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and

Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the title "

Surfactant ”.

An embodiment of the invention which is advantageous according to the invention is advantageously characterized in that it contains one or more substances which have an octanol-water partition coefficient (log Kow) of greater than 0 to less than 4, preferably less than 3.5 and particularly preferably less than 3 and none Is an emulsifier or surfactant.

The total proportion of substances which have an octanol-water partition coefficient (log Kow) of greater than 0 to less than 4, preferably less than 3.5 and particularly preferably less than 3 and which are not an emulsifier or surfactant, is advantageously from 0.1 to 2, 5% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 1.8% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.

The log Kow value results from the definition

log K _ow = logC ₀ - \ ogC _w

where C ₀ indicates the concentration of the respective substance in the octanol phase and C _w the concentration of the chemical in the water phase. That means log Kow is positive for lipophilic and negative for hydrophilic substances.

According to the invention, the log Kow value of the substances used is determined according to the Crippen calculation method, which is taken from the publication J. Chem. Inf. Comput. Be. 1999, 39, 868-873 with the title "Prediction of Physicochemical Parameters by atomic contribution" is known.

The following table lists some distribution coefficients (log Kow) calculated using the Crippen method.

Table 1 :

It is also preferred if the cosmetic preparation contains at least one color that is listed in the "List of colorants permitted in cosmetic products" in Annex IV of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, updated on September 28, 2017.

Comparative experiments and examples

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or the total weight of the preparations. The following preparations were made:

The examples which are designated with Ex. X represent examples according to the invention, while the examples which are designated with Cf. X are not according to the invention. The letter X stands for an integer number.

The advantageous effect of the preparation according to the invention is described below

proven.

In a first experiment, the preparations of example Ex.1 according to the invention and the comparative examples that are not according to the invention, cf.

For this purpose, the preparations were first filled into a glass vessel and waited until no more air bubbles were visible to the eye in the preparations. Each preparation was then shaken for 10 seconds so that as many air bubbles as possible were suspended in the preparation. After shaking, the glasses were set down and the behavior of the air bubbles was observed. It was surprisingly found that Example 1 according to the invention stabilizes the air bubbles suspended by the shaking significantly better after 1 minute than the comparative examples Comp.1, Comp.2 and Comp.3. The comparative examples showed no more air bubbles around the lower area of the preparation after one minute, while Example 1 contained significantly more suspended air bubbles in the lower area. Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that the preparation of Example Ex.1 was comparatively transparent and thus made it possible to look like water.

In a second comparative experiment, the transparency of the preparations of Examples Ex.2 to Ex.9 according to the invention was examined. For this purpose, the respective preparations were filled into 1 cm disposable cuvettes and a transmission measurement was carried out with deionized water as a reference at 420 nm. The received

Transmission values compared to deionized water are given in the following table:

It has been found that the preparations are less cloudy if no silicone-containing oil is used. In particular, high transmission values were achieved with Cocoglycerides, Octyldodecanol and Coco-Caprylate / Caprate.

Claims

1. Cosmetic acrylate-free preparation comprising xanthan gum and having a viscosity at 25 ° C. in the range from 30 to 150 mPa · s.

2. Use of xanthan gum to stabilize suspended air bubbles in a cosmetic acrylate-free preparation having a viscosity at 25 ° C. in the range from 30 to 150 mPa.s.

3. Preparation or use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the proportion of xanthan gum from 0.05 to 0.45 wt .-%, preferably from 0.075 to 0.3 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.09 to 0.23% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.

4. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims

characterized in that the preparation contains at least one oil component that is liquid at 20 ° C.

5. Preparation or use according to claim 4, characterized in that it contains an oil component which is liquid at 20 ° C and which has no siloxane units and which does not contain silicone oil.

6. Preparation or use according to one of claims 4 or 5 thereby

characterized in that the oil component at 20 ° C is selected from the group of cocoglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides, octyldodecanol, ethylhexyl stearate and coco-caprylate / caprate, the use of cocoglyceride, octyldodecanol and / or coco-caprylate / caprate being particularly preferred .

7. Preparation or use according to one of the claims 4 to 6 thereby

characterized in that the proportion of the oil components that are liquid at 20 ° C. is from 0.01 to 0.8% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.15 to 0.3% by weight .-%, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.

8. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims

characterized in that the cosmetic preparation does not contain any further

Contains celluloses.

9. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains no further polymers.

10. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims

characterized in that PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is contained in the preparation, it being advantageous if the proportion of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 2.1% by weight .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.

11. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims

characterized in that ethanol is contained in the preparation, the proportion of ethanol advantageously being from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably 6 to 10% by weight and particularly preferably 6.5 to 9% by weight, whereby the information relates to the total weight of the preparation.

12. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims

characterized in that the preparation contains glycerol and the proportion of glycerol is at least 8% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight and particularly preferably from 17.5 to 21% by weight glycerol, the information being based on refers to the total weight of the preparation.

13. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims

characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains 1,2-hexanediol and / or phenoxyethanol, it being furthermore advantageous if the total proportion of 1,2-hexanediol and / or phenoxyethanol is 0.5 to 1.8% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 1.5% by weight, the weight fraction being based in each case on the

Refers to the total weight of the preparation.

14. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims

characterized in that it contains water as the cosmetic carrier, the proportion of water being preferably from 60% by weight to 80% by weight and particularly preferably from 66% by weight to 71% by weight, the information being the same each based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.

15. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims

characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains no further surfactants or emulsifiers.