WO2020127833A1 - Composition gélifiée comprenant deux gélifiants hydrophiles et agrégats solides - Google Patents

Composition gélifiée comprenant deux gélifiants hydrophiles et agrégats solides Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020127833A1
WO2020127833A1 PCT/EP2019/086462 EP2019086462W WO2020127833A1 WO 2020127833 A1 WO2020127833 A1 WO 2020127833A1 EP 2019086462 W EP2019086462 W EP 2019086462W WO 2020127833 A1 WO2020127833 A1 WO 2020127833A1
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composition
weight
chosen
wax
dimethicone
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PCT/EP2019/086462
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English (en)
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Clémence COSSEC
Camille POSTIC
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2020127833A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020127833A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0275—Containing agglomerated particulates
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/044—Suspensions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a novel presentation form that is most particularly advantageous with regard to its technical performance and the sensations it affords the user during its application to said keratin materials for the field of the care and hygiene of keratin materials, especially the skin and/or the lips, and in particular of the skin.
  • Cosmetic compositions are commonly employed for hiding and/or unifying skin relief imperfections such as pores, wrinkles and/or fine lines and/or scars.
  • many solid or fluid, anhydrous or non-anhydrous formulations have been developed to date.
  • compositions are more particularly intended for fading out the visibility of the skin relief
  • the formulator uses therein diffusing fillers or else soft-focus fillers.
  • the corresponding compositions that are currently available do not prove to be entirely satisfactory, especially in terms of soft-focus performance.
  • crosslinked silicones are another alternative.
  • starting materials of this type can combine a matt effect and a soft-focus effect.
  • they have the drawback of being characterized by a relatively uncomfortable warm and greasy feel, with a "mask” effect.
  • cosmetic compositions combining a matt effect and a soft-focus effect comprising an aqueous-alcoholic or aqueous gel of phyllosilicate of formula Mg3Si40io(OH)2 have already been proposed, for example in WO 2016/083385.
  • These phyllosilicates are in platelet form, constituted of a single material, and are dispersed in the aqueous phase.
  • compositions that are capable of affording an immediate visual result on the skin with a sensation of lightness and comfort on application, with a smooth, non-tacky cover and without a pilling effect during application, this expected immediate result preferentially being good covering of color imperfections and/or relief imperfections.
  • the present invention is specifically directed toward meeting this need.
  • the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • the first hydrophilic gelling agent being chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • the second hydrophilic gelling agent being chosen from polymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinyl- formamide, sodium polyacrylates and crosslinked homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid
  • composition also comprising a dispersion of solid aggregates, said aggregates being formed of 10% to 80% by weight of wax(es), relative to the total weight thereof.
  • keratin materials especially means the skin, the lips and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and preferably the skin.
  • keratin materials especially means the skin, the lips and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and preferably the skin.
  • compositions according to the invention have a better optical soft-focus effect, while maintaining a very good sensoriality, in particular in terms of comfort, tackiness and smoothness.
  • compositions according to the invention advantageously have a smooth finish with reduced pilling effect, or even no pilling effect, during application.
  • Gel-gel compositions have already been proposed in the cosmetic field. Formulations of this type combine a gelled aqueous phase with a gelled oily phase. Thus, gel/gel formulations are described in Almeida et al, Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13:487, tables 1 and 2, page 488; WO 99/65455; PI 0405758-9; WO 99/62497; JP 2005- 112834 and WO 2008/081175. However, to the inventors' knowledge, this type of composition does not currently make it possible to dissimulate and smooth out relief imperfections without thereby impairing the other expected cosmetic performance qualities.
  • a composition according to the invention makes it possible to mask the imperfections and to provide a radiant complexion, while at the same time having good sensory properties, in particular in terms of emollience, comfort, tackiness and smoothness on the skin.
  • a further subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.
  • composition according to the invention is different than an emulsion.
  • An emulsion is generally constituted by an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. It is a dispersion of droplets of one of the two liquid phases in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically about a micrometre (0.1 to 100 pm). Furthermore, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or of an emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.
  • a composition according to the invention is constituted of a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of at least two immiscible gelled phases. Each of these phases have a gel-type texture. This texture is especially reflected visually by a consistent and/or creamy appearance.
  • macroscopically homogeneous mixture means a mixture in which each of the gelled phases cannot be individualized by the naked eye.
  • composition according to the invention the gelled aqueous phase and the gelled oily phase interpenetrate and thus form a stable, consistent product. This consistency is achieved by mixing interpenetrated macrodomains. These interpenetrated macrodomains are not measurable objects. Thus, by microscope, the composition according to the invention is very different than an emulsion. A composition according to the invention also cannot be characterized as having a " sense ", i.e. an O/W or W/O sense.
  • a composition according to the invention has a consistency of gel type.
  • the stability of the composition is long lasting without surfactant. Consequently, a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, according to the invention does not require any surfactant or silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.
  • the test that will be preferred for distinguishing a gel-type composition from an emulsion is a dilution test.
  • a gel-type composition the aqueous and oily gelled domains interpenetrate and form a consistent and stable composition, in which the behavior in water and in oil is different than the behavior of an emulsion. Consequently, the behavior during dilution of a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system) may be compared to that of an emulsion.
  • the dilution test consists in placing 40 g of product and 160 g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a 500 mL plastic beaker.
  • the dilution is performed with controlled stirring to avoid any emulsification phenomenon. In particular, this is performed using a planetary mixer: The speed of the mixer is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes. Finally, observation of the resulting sample is performed using a light microscope at a magnification of xl00 (x 10x10).
  • oils such as Parleam ® and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS ® sold by Dow Corning are suitable as dilution solvent, in the same way as one of the oils contained in the composition.
  • a gel-type composition when it is diluted in oil or in water, a heterogeneous appearance is always observed.
  • a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system) is diluted in water, pieces of oily gel in suspension are observed, and when a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system) is diluted in oil, pieces of aqueous gel in suspension are observed.
  • the aqueous gelled phase and the oily gelled phase forming a composition according to the invention are present therein in a weight ratio ranging from 95/5 to 5/95. More preferentially, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are present in a weight ratio ranging from 30/70 to 90/10.
  • the ratio between the two gelled phases is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties.
  • aqueous gelled phase/oily gelled phase weight ratio of greater than 1 , in particular ranging from 55/45 to 90/10, preferably ranging from 60/40 to 85/15.
  • a composition according to the invention may thus be in the form of a creamy gel with a minimum stress below which it does not flow unless it has been subjected to an external mechanical stress.
  • composition according to the invention may have a minimum threshold stress of 1.5 Pa and in particular greater than 10 Pa.
  • the gelled phases under consideration for forming a composition according to the invention may have, respectively, a threshold stress of greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa.
  • the corresponding measurements are taken at 25°C using a Haake RS600 imposed-stress rheometer equipped with a plate-plate measuring body (60 mm diameter) fitted with an anti-evaporation device (bell jar). For each measurement, the sample is placed delicately in position and the measurements start 5 minutes after placing the sample in the jaws (2 mm). The tested composition is then subjected to a stress ramp from 10 2 to 10 3 Pa at a set frequency of 1 Hz.
  • a composition according to the invention may also have a certain elasticity.
  • This elasticity may be characterized by a stiffness modulus G* which, under this minimum stress threshold, may be at least equal to 400 Pa and preferably greater than 1000 Pa.
  • the value G* of a composition may be obtained by subjecting the composition under consideration to a stress ramp from 10 2 to 10 3 Pa at a set frequency of 1 Hz.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one dispersion of solid aggregates.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 2% to 35% by weight, and more preferentially from 5% to 30% by weight, of solid aggregates relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the term“ aggregates” is intended to mean an assembly of distinct compounds which adhere to one another and form a whole. Such aggregates may have varied shapes and sizes.
  • the aggregates present in a composition according to the invention have a size of between 0.1 pm and 100 pm, preferably of between 0.1 pm and 10 pm.
  • dispersion of solid aggregates is intended to mean that the solid aggregates are dispersed in the composition according to the invention.
  • the solid aggregates are dispersed in the gelled aqueous phase and/or in the gelled oily phase, and in particular predominantly in the gelled oily phase.
  • the aggregates are dispersed in the gelled oily phase.
  • the solid aggregates are formed of 10% to 80% by weight of wax(es) relative to the total weight thereof.
  • the solid aggregates are formed of 10% to 50% by weight of wax(es), and preferably of 10% to 40% by weight of wax(es), relative to the total weight thereof.
  • the term“wax” is intended to mean a lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible change of solid/liquid state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, possibly ranging up to 120°C.
  • the melting point of the wax can be measured by means of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Metier.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measurement protocol is the following:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at the heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • a first temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at the heating rate of 10°C/minute
  • a second temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the wax can in particular have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa.
  • the hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20°C by means of the texturometer sold under the name TA-TC2 ⁇ by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder having a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
  • the waxes can be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorinated and can be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
  • the waxes have a melting point of greater than 30°C and better still greater than 45°C.
  • apolar wax is intended to mean a wax of which the solubility parameter 5 a at 25°C as defined below is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • Apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon-based waxes constituted only of carbon and hydrogen atoms and which are free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.
  • apolar wax is intended to mean a wax which is constituted only of apolar wax and not a mixture that will also comprise other types of waxes which are not apolar waxes.
  • apolar waxes suitable for the invention mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozocerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, and microwaxes, in particular polyethylene microwaxes.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozocerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, and microwaxes, in particular polyethylene microwaxes.
  • polyethylene wax mention may be made of Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies and Asensa SC 211 sold by Honeywell.
  • Cirebelle 108 sold by Cirebelle.
  • Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P As ozocerite, mention may be made of Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.
  • microcrystalline waxes that can be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445 ® sold by the company Sonneborn and Microwax HW ® and Base wax 30540 ® sold by the company Paramelt.
  • microwaxes that can be used according to the invention as apolar wax mention may in particular be made of polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200 ® , 220 ® , 220L ® and 250S ® by the company Micro Powders.
  • Polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200 ® , 220 ® , 220L ® and 250S ® by the company Micro Powders.
  • the term“ polar wax” is intended to mean a wax of which the solubility parameter 5 a at 25°C is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • polar wax is intended to mean a wax of which the chemical structure is essentially formed, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and which comprises at least one strongly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
  • the polar waxes can in particular be hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluorinated waxes or silicone waxes, preferably hydrocarbon-based or silicone waxes.
  • silicon wax is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-0 groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based wax is intended to mean a wax essentially formed, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atom. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the polar wax is a hydrocarbon-based wax.
  • ester wax By way of hydrocarbon-based polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is in particular preferred.
  • ester wax is intended to mean a wax comprising at least one ester function.
  • the ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.
  • alcohol wax is intended to mean a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (-OH) group.
  • ester wax use may in particular be made of ester waxes such as those chosen from:
  • the waxes of formula R1COOR2 wherein Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which range from 10 to 50, possibly containing a heteroatom such as O, N or P, and the melting point of which ranges from 25°C to 120°C.
  • Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which range from 10 to 50, possibly containing a heteroatom such as O, N or P, and the melting point of which ranges from 25°C to 120°C.
  • ester wax use may be made of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate.
  • Such waxes are in particular sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P ® , Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ® , Kester Wax K 80 P ® , or Kester Wax K 82 H ® by the company Koster Keunen.
  • Use may also be made of a montanate (octacosanoate) of glycol and of butylene glycol, such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant;
  • the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated;
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched, C8-C32 fatty chains for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated copra oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 ® and 22L73 ® by the company Sophim.
  • Such waxes are described in application FR2792190.
  • waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol mention may be made of those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57; v.
  • waxes corresponding to the partial or total, preferably total, esters of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol are esterified.
  • total esters is intended to mean that all the hydroxyl functions of the glycerol are esterified.
  • trihydroxystearin or glyceryl trihydroxystearate
  • tristearin or glyceryl tristearate
  • tribehenin or glyceryl tribehenate
  • suitable compounds mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and of 12-hydroxy stearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as for example Thixcin R, Thixcin E, sold by Elementis Specialties;
  • ester of behenic acid and of glycerol and in particular mixtures of esters of behenic acid and of glycerol, such as for example the mixture of glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin and glyceryl behenate sold by the company Gattefosse under the reference Compritol 888 CG ATO;
  • beeswax synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polar wax may be an alcohol wax.
  • alcohol wax By way of alcohol wax, mention may be made of alcohols, preferably linear, preferably saturated, alcohols comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms, the melting point of which is between 25°C and 120°C.
  • alcohol wax mention may for example be made of the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
  • silicone wax is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-0 groups.
  • silicone waxes of this type mention may in particular be made of those sold under the names Abilwax 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin Etsu), or 176-11481 (General Electric).
  • the silicone waxes that can be used may also be alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones, and also (C20-C60) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C30-C45) alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones or the (C30-C45) alkyl dimethylsilyl polypropyl silsesquioxane under the name SW-8005 ® C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning.
  • silicone waxes obtained by esterification with a (poly)alkoxylated silicone such as silicone beeswax, silicone candelilla wax, silicone carnauba wax.
  • the wax(es) are chosen from ester waxes.
  • the wax(es) are chosen from beeswax and a mixture of esters of behenic acid and of glycerol.
  • the wax(es) are chosen from mixtures of esters of behenic acid and of glycerol.
  • the solid aggregates can also comprise one or more nonvolatile oils.
  • the term“oiF is intended to mean a nonaqueous, water-immiscible compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
  • nonvolatile is intended to mean an oil, the vapour pressure of which at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
  • Nonvolatile oils that may especially be mentioned include:
  • the esters may be chosen especially from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyalcohol ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, and isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate and isotridecyl isononanoate,
  • isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl my
  • - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol
  • non-phenyl silicone oils for instance caprylyl methicone
  • phenyl silicone oils for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and trimethyl-pentaphenyl- trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;
  • the aggregates also comprise at least one nonvolatile oil, in particular chosen from nonvolatile, apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, nonvolatile ester oils and mixtures thereof.
  • apolar oil is intended to mean an oil the solubility parameter of which at 25°C, 6 a , is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the nonvolatile, apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is free of oxygen atoms.
  • the nonvolatile, apolar hydrocarbon-based oil can be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. In particular, it can be chosen from:
  • Parleam ® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or produced by the company Amoco (Mw - 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or produced by the company Synteal (Mw - 6000 g/mol), Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or produced by the company Witco (Mw - 1000 g/mol),
  • Said nonvolatile oil can also be an ester oil, in particular having between 18 and carbon atoms.
  • the ester oils can in particular be hydroxylated.
  • the nonvolatile ester oil can preferably be chosen from:
  • R1COOR2 monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula R1COOR2 wherein Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 18, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetosteryl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2- octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decano
  • esters of formula R1COOR2 wherein Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, Ri and R2 being such that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 18.
  • the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total.
  • isononyl isononanoate oleyl erucate and/or 2- octyldodecyl neopentanoate;
  • di esters in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total.
  • Use may in particular be made of diesters of a dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate or diesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS by the company Alzo;
  • - triesters in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as tricarboxylic acid triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;
  • tricarboxylic acid triesters such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate
  • triesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate
  • tetraesters in particular having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl 2-tridecyltetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or else pentaerythrityl 2-tetradecyltetradecanoate;
  • esters and polyesters of a dimer diol and of a mono- or dicarboxylic acid such as esters of a dimer diol and of a fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer, in particular which can be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated, especially Cx to C34, especially C12 to C22, in particular C 1 ⁇ 2 to C20, and more particularly C ix, fatty acid, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic dimer diols, for example such as those sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and DD- DA7 ® ; - vinylpyrrolidone/l-hexadecene copolymers, such as for example that sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also known as Ganex V216
  • hydrocarbon-based oils such as triglycerides of fatty acids (which are liquid at ambient temperature), in particular of fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil; in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, C18-C36 acid triglycerides, such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stearineries Dubois; and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil;
  • the solid aggregates are formed of 10% to 80% by weight of oil(s), and preferably of 15% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight thereof.
  • the solid aggregates comprise at least one apolar, nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil and a nonvolatile ester oil.
  • the solid aggregates comprise at least two apolar, nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils and one nonvolatile ester oil.
  • the solid aggregates comprise cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropyl myristate, hydrogenated polyisobutene and a mineral oil.
  • the solid aggregates comprise cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropyl myristate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, a mineral oil, and glyceryl dibehenate (and) tribehenin (and) glyceryl behenate.
  • the solid aggregates comprise cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropyl myristate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, a mineral oil, and a beeswax.
  • hydrophilic gelling agent means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the gelling agent is hydrophilic and is thus present in the aqueous phase of the composition.
  • the gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.
  • the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is gelled with at least two distinct hydrophilic gelling agents, the first hydrophilic gelling agent being chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and the second hydrophilic gelling agent being chosen from polymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid, copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, sodium polyacrylates and crossl inked homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid.
  • the first hydrophilic gelling agent being chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • the second hydrophilic gelling agent being chosen from polymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid, copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide,
  • the first hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • a composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1% to 8% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.3% to 2% by weight, of the first hydrophilic gelling agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the polymers used that are suitable as first hydrophilic gelling agent may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS ® ) monomer, in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base other than aqueous ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
  • AMPS ® 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • They are preferably totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.
  • AMPS ® polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non- crosslinked.
  • the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
  • crosslinking agents mention may for example be made of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethyleneglycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate,
  • the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
  • TMPTA trimethylolpropane triacrylate
  • the AMPS ® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are:
  • copolymers obtained from AMPS ® and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above.
  • said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.
  • fatty chain means any hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 7 carbon atoms.
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably of at least 70%.
  • the "homopolymers” according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:
  • the monomer such as AMPS ® in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert- butanol or of water and tert-butanol;
  • the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NFb, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;
  • a standard radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free-radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10°C to 150°C; the polymer precipitates from the tert-butanol- based solution or dispersion.
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ® copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.
  • the water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.
  • ionic water-soluble comonomers examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds, and salts thereof:
  • - Ri is chosen from H, -CFb, -C2H5 and -C3H7,
  • - Xi is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR 2 where R 2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO 3 -) and/or sulfate (-SO 4 -) and/or phosphate (-PO 4 H 2 -) group.
  • R 2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO 3 -) and/or sulfate (-SO 4 -) and/or phosphate (-PO 4 H 2 -) group.
  • nonionic water-soluble comonomers examples that may be mentioned include:
  • N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
  • - R 3 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7 ,
  • - X 2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR 4 where R 4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atom; a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.
  • R 4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atom; a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.
  • hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain mention may be made, for example, of:
  • styrene and derivatives thereof, such as 4-butylstyrene, a-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;
  • silicone derivatives which, after polymerization, result in silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides;
  • - R4 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7
  • - X 3 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR 5 where R 5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ® homopolymers suitable for use in the invention mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers (INCI name: Ammonium
  • Polydimethyltauramide such as those described in patent EP0815928B 1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ® by the company Clariant.
  • the first hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from copolymers of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.3% to 2% by weight of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymer(s) which are crossl inked and/or neutralized, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the second hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid, copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, sodium polyacrylates and crossl inked homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone, sodium polyacrylates, in particular which are partially neutralized, and crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 8% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.3% to 2% by weight, of the second hydrophilic gelling agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as second hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • the polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprises 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid units of formula (I) below:
  • X + is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion.
  • polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid that is suitable for the invention, mention may for example be made of crosslinked or noncrosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium
  • Polyacryldimethyltauramide such as those described in patent EP0815928B1 and such as the product sold under the tradename Hostacerin AMPS ® by the company Clariant.
  • polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid that can be used in the composition according to the invention
  • mention may in particular be made of crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), such as the product sold under the tradename Hostacerin AMPS ® by the company Clariant.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one copolymer of AMPS ® and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide as second hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • copolymers of AMPS ® and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC ® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
  • the second hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from copolymers of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone.
  • Sodium polyacrylate A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sodium polyacrylate as second hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • Cosmedia SP ® containing 90% of solids and 10% of water
  • Cosmedia SPL ® as an inverse emulsion containing approximately 60% of solids
  • an oil hydroogenated polydecene
  • PPG-5 Laureth-5 a surfactant
  • the second hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from sodium polyacrylates, in particular which are partially neutralized.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one crosslinked homopolymer of (meth)acrylic acid as second hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) sold by the company Fubrizol.
  • the second hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid.
  • the term“ lipophilic gelling agent’ is intended to mean a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the gelling agent is lipophilic, thus present in the oily phase of the composition.
  • the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomers.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer has the advantage of conferring, on the composition according to the invention, good application properties. It provides a very soft and mattifying feel after application, advantageous in particular for application to the skin. It may also allow effective filling of the recesses present on keratin materials.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer or“ silicone elastomer” is intended to mean a deformable, flexible organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a flexible sphere or sponge. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of returning to its original shape following stretching.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicon and of a diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane comprising hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, such as for example described in application EP295886.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of polymethylhydrosiloxane comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • the compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).
  • the compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.
  • the compound (A) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
  • the compound (A) can have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, in particular so as to be properly miscible with the compound (B).
  • the organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2- phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenyl ethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2- phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl
  • aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl
  • the compound (A) can thus be chosen from polymethylhydrosiloxanes comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, copolymers of dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, and cyclic dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers.
  • the compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4 lower alkenyl groups); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located in any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
  • the organopolysiloxane (B) can have a branched-chain, linear- chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred.
  • the compound (B) can have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
  • the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl
  • aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl
  • the organopolysiloxanes (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, copolymers of dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, copolymers of dimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, copolymers of dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, copolymers of dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes comprising
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of polymethylhydrosiloxane comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.
  • the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is within the range of from 1.5/1 to 20/1.
  • the compound (C) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and supported platinum.
  • the catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and (B).
  • the elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.
  • non-emulsifying defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) units, nor a polyglyceryl unit.
  • the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and of a polyglyceryl unit.
  • the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), and Dimethicone Crosspolymer- 3 (INCI name).
  • the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be carried in the form of a gel constituted of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers are in particular described in patents EP242219, EP285886 and EP765656 and in application JP-A-61-194009.
  • the silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone) or cyclic silicone oil (for example: cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.
  • a linear silicone oil dimethicone
  • cyclic silicone oil for example: cyclopentasiloxane
  • non-emulsifying elastomers use may more particularly be made of those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, by the company Shin Etsu, DC9040, DC9041, by the company Dow Corning, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.
  • a gel of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a nonexhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 cst at 25°C, optionally modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • a silicone oil chosen from a nonexhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicon
  • Dimethicone such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin Etsu;
  • - Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer such as DC9041 from the company Dow Corning
  • - Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer such as “Dow Corning EL-9240 ® silicone elastomer blend” from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethysiloxane (2 cSt));
  • Dimethicone such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin Etsu;
  • Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer such as Dow Corning EL-9240 ® silicone elastomer blend from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethysiloxane (2 cSt)).
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name dimethicone crosspolymer or dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, preferably with a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cst, in particular from 1 to 10 cst at 25°C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (5 cst) sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning or the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (2 cst) sold under the name EL-9240 ® by the company Dow Corning.
  • a crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name dimethicone crosspolymer or dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, preferably with a dim
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, preferably with a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cst, in particular from 1 to 10 cst at 25°C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (5 cst) sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning.
  • a crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, preferably with a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cst, in particular from 1 to 10 cst at 25°C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (5 cs
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles can also be used in powder form; mention may in particular be made of the powders sold under the names Dow Corning 9505 Powder, Dow Corning 9506 Powder by the company Dow Corning, these powders having the INCI name: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • the organopolysiloxane powder can also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in patent US 5 538 793.
  • Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, and KSP-105 by the company Shin Etsu, and have the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.
  • organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin that can be advantageously used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of the reference KSP-100 from the company Shin Etsu.
  • Such compounds can act both as a lipophilic gelling agent and as a filler.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, it acts solely as a lipophilic gelling agent.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin as lipophilic gelling agent, and optionally a filler distinct from an organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, it acts solely as a filler.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises, as lipophilic gelling agent, an organopolysiloxane elastomer distinct from an organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, it acts as a lipophilic gelling agent and as a filler.
  • elastomers of crosslinked organopolysiloxane chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name).
  • a composition according to the invention comprises, as lipophilic agent, at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, and preferably organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, in particular which has the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, and in particular that sold under the name KSP-100 by the company Shin Etsu.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention at a content of between 0.1% and 35% by weight, in particular between 1% and 20% and more particularly between 2% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and water-miscible (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
  • the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
  • the aqueous phase may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 99%, better still from 30% to 95% by weight and preferably from 40% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at ambient temperature.
  • a polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four -OH functions, on the alkyl chain.
  • the polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those especially containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the invention may comprise at least dipropylene glycol.
  • composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.
  • an oily phase comprises at least one oil.
  • oil means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • An oily phase that is suitable for preparing the compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the oils may be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • oils of silicone origin are preferred.
  • nonvolatile oil means an oil with a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • volatile oil means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at ambient temperature, especially having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms mention may be made especially of branched Cs-C ie alkanes, for instance Cs-C ie isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-C i e esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.
  • Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
  • Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxan, in particular cyclohexasiloxane.
  • the nonvolatile oils can be chosen in particular from nonvolatile hydrocarbon- based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
  • Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin in particular liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, liquid petroleum jelly, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof, and preferably hydrogenated polyisobutene;
  • the esters may be chosen especially from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyalcohol ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, and isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate and isotridecyl isononanoate,
  • isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl my
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol,
  • non-phenyl silicone oils for instance caprylyl methicone
  • phenyl silicone oils for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and trimethyl-pentaphenyl- trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight, better still from 10% to 70% by weight and preferably from 15% to 55% by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the gelled oily phase according to the invention may have a threshold stress of greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa. This threshold stress value reflects a gel-type texture of this oily phase.
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, in particular a soft-focus or soft-focus-effect filler.
  • fillers' should be understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble and dispersed form in the medium of the composition.
  • these fillers are used in the appropriate contents and under the appropriate conditions so as not to be detrimental to the compositions.
  • the soft-focus-effect fillers that may be used in the composition according to the invention are especially characterized by a refractive index of between 1.33 and 2.
  • They will generally comprise or be constituted of particles with a number-average size of less than or equal to 25 pm, especially less than or equal to 20 pm and in particular less than or equal to 15 pm.
  • number-average size denotes the dimension given by statistical particle size distribution for half the population, referred to as D50 measured with a Malvern Mastersizer machine.
  • These particles may be of any shape and in particular may be spherical or non- spherical.
  • Said filler(s) are totally or partly, and preferably solely, present in the gelled aqueous phase or are totally or partly, and preferably solely, present in the gelled oily phase. They are preferably present in the gelled aqueous phase.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin, powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with hydrophilic silicone resin, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, carnauba microwaxes, synthetic wax microwaxes, silicone resin powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, acrylic copolymer powders, expanded vinylidene/acrylonitrile/methylene methacrylate microspheres, polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, polymethyl methacrylate powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, starch powders, polyamide powders, powders of silica and silicates, especially of alumina, hydrophobic aerogel particles, talc
  • the filler is a silicone filler, preferably a powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin.
  • the powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with hydrophilic silicone resin is generally referred to as "hydrophilically treated", that is to say treated to make it hydrophilic.
  • the powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin hydrophilic it is subjected to a treatment aimed at linking thereto at least one cationic polymer and advantageously at least one nonionic or cationic surfactant.
  • the cationic polymer with optionally the surfactant(s) and the powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane can be linked by chemical bonds or by interactions, in particular by van der Waals bonds.
  • the hydrophilically treated powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin is linked to at least one cationic polymer, preferably a quaternary ammonium polymer, in particular a polymer having the INCI name "Polyquaternium” and optionally to at least one ester of a C8-C22 fatty acid and of a polyol which is polyoxyethylenated, preferably comprising 2 to 20 mol of OE, such as esters of a Cs-Cis fatty acid and of glycerol which is polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 3 to 15 mol of OE, preferably a Cs-Cis glycol ester which is polyoxyethylenated, more preferentially an ester of a Cs-Cis fatty acid and of glycerol which is polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 5 to 10 mol of OE.
  • a quaternary ammonium polymer in particular
  • the hydrophilically treated powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin is linked to at least one quaternary ammonium polymer, preferably chosen from polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-7, preferentially polyquatemium-7.
  • Polyquaternium-6 is a poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride).
  • Polyquaternium 7 is a copolymer of acrylamide and of diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • the powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin used as filler in the compositions according to the invention corresponds to the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer. It is in particular sold under the reference KSP-100 by the company Shin-Etsu.
  • the hydrophilically treated powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin used as filler in the compositions according to the invention corresponds to the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyseryl cocoate, Polyquatemium-7 and methylsilanol tri- PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate. It is in particular sold under the reference MW-SRP-100 by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 37% by weight, in particular from 2% to 15% by weight of filler(s), and in particular of powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, in particular of vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • Fillers of this type are particularly advantageous insofar as they can make imperfections hazy. As indicated previously, the performance of these fillers is advantageously increased by means of using them in a composition according to the invention.
  • the soft-focus effect is characterized by haze and transparency (transmittance TH) measurements.
  • “Haze” corresponds to the percentage of light scattered relative to the total transmittance according to standard ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics).
  • the filler(s) are distinct from the oily gelling agent(s).
  • a composition according to the invention in a composition according to the invention, are identical to the oily gelling agent(s).
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to one or more of the abovementioned filler(s), one or more filler(s) conventionally used in care and/or makeup compositions.
  • These additional fillers are colorless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
  • fillers of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, give the composition containing them softness, a matt effect and uniformity of the makeup result .
  • such additional fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, especially between 0.5% and 7% by weight and in particular between 0.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition may also comprise at least solid particles such as pigments and/or fillers.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 45% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 1% to 35% by weight and preferably from 2% to 30% by weight of solid particles relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one particulate or non-particulate, water-soluble or water-insoluble colorant, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of colorants relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the colorants that are suitable for use in the invention may be water- soluble, but may also be liposoluble.
  • water-soluble colorant means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water- miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting color.
  • water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanine (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophylline, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus and elder), caramel and riboflavin.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.
  • liposoluble colorant means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting color.
  • liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (b-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
  • synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (b-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
  • the coloring particulate materials may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.
  • They may especially be pigments, nacres and/or particles with metallic glints.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous solution, which are intended to color and/or opacify the composition containing them.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • composition according to the invention when the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, it may comprise at least 2.5% and preferentially at least 10% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.
  • mineral pigments which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or cerium dioxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof. They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
  • pigments having a structure may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.
  • An example of a pigment having this structure is that sold by Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being constituted of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
  • the pigments in accordance with the invention are iron oxides and/or titanium dioxides.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a color effect via optical interference.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of nacres, and in particular from 0.01% to 15% by weight of nacres, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
  • nacres examples include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or glint.
  • the nacres in accordance with the invention are micas covered with titanium dioxide or with iron oxide, and also bismuth oxychloride.
  • particles with a metallic glint means any compound of which the nature, size, structure and surface finish allow it to reflect the incident light, especially in a non-iridescent manner.
  • the particles with a metallic glint that may be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:
  • - particles comprising a monomaterial or multimaterial organic or inorganic substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer with a metallic glint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative;
  • metals that may be present in said particles, mention may for example be made of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof.
  • Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.
  • metal derivatives denotes compounds derived from metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
  • the pulverulent colorants as described previously may be totally or partially surface treated, with a hydrophobic agent, to make them more compatible with the oily phase of the composition of the invention, especially so that they have good wettability with oils.
  • these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase.
  • the hydrophobic-treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates; polyhexafluoropropylene oxides; perfluoropoly ethers; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes
  • fatty acids such as stearic acid
  • metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate
  • perfluoroalkyl phosphates polyhexafluoropropylene oxides
  • alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above especially denotes an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polar additive(s).
  • the use of such a polar additive can in particular facilitate the homogenization of the dispersion in the presence of pigments.
  • the polar additive may be chosen from compounds considered as good hydrogen bond donors or acceptors, for instance fatty alcohols, fatty acids, diols and esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polar additives of the invention may be polar oils.
  • the polar additives of the invention may be amphiphilic compounds, comprising a lipophilic part bonded to a polar part, for example chosen from esters, Cn to C26 branched fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol, or amphiphilic silicone compounds.
  • the polar additives of the invention may also be agents for screening out UV-B and/or UV-A rays, the total amount of screening agents possibly being between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.05% to 1% by weight of polar additive(s).
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one moisturizer (also known as a humectant), in particular for a care application.
  • at least one moisturizer also known as a humectant
  • the moisturizer is glycerol.
  • the moisturizer(s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 10% by weight or even from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Mention may be made, as other active agents which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of vitamins, sunscreens and mixtures thereof, and in particular vitamins such as tocopherol.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active agent, in particular chosen from moisturizers, preferably glycerol, vitamins, preferably tocopherol, and mixtures thereof.
  • active agent in particular chosen from moisturizers, preferably glycerol, vitamins, preferably tocopherol, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one active agent.
  • the active agent is chosen from shea butter, sodium hyaluronate and a mixture thereof.
  • composition according to the invention comprises sodium hyaluronate.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one dispersing agent.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for the skin and/or keratin fibers, the body or the face, in particular the face.
  • a composition according to the invention is in the form of a composition for caring for the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.
  • composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for anti-aging care of the skin of the body or the face, in particular the face.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and/or keratin fibers, the body or the face, in particular the face.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and especially the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a face powder.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a lip product, especially a lipstick.
  • a composition of the invention may be in the form of a product for the eyelashes, in particular a mascara.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a product for the eyebrows, in particular an eyebrow pencil.
  • compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
  • the measurements are taken using a Haake RS600 rheometer on a product at rest, at 25°C with a plate-plate rotor 0 60 mm and a 2 mm gap.
  • the harmonic -regime measurements make it possible to characterize the viscoelastic properties of the products.
  • the technique consists in subjecting a material to a stress which varies sinusoidally over time and in measuring the response of the material to this stress.
  • the stress (x) and the strain (g) are two sinusoidal functions of time which are written in the following manner:
  • xo represents the maximum amplitude of the stress (Pa);
  • d represents the phase shift of the stress relative to the strain (rad).
  • the two functions have the same angular frequency, but they are phase shifted by an angle d.
  • the behavior of the system may be apprehended:
  • the material is viscoelastic.
  • a complex stiffness modulus representing the overall resistance of the material to the strain, whether it is of elastic or viscous origin, is then defined by:
  • the parameter retained is the mean stiffness modulus G* recorded at the plateau measured at a frequency of 1 Hz.
  • composition A formed of the following ingredients is prepared:
  • composition A is carried out in a twin-screw blender in continuous mode, such as the BC-21 model from the company Clextral, and takes place under the following conditions:
  • the premelted waxes are introduced at the top of the blender, at the same time as the oil, then the mixture is cooled with twin-screw blending in continuous mode until the outlet temperature is reached.
  • Example 2 Preparation of compositions 1 to 5 according to the invention
  • compositions 1 to 5 according to the invention are prepared on the basis of the weight proportions as detailed in the table below. [Table 2]
  • the hydrophilic phase B is prepared beforehand by adding each compound and homogenizing with Rayneri stirring.
  • the lipophilic phase C is prepared beforehand by adding each compound and homogenizing with Rayneri stirring.
  • Phases B and C and the composition A are mixed and homogenized with Rayneri stirring for the purposes of dispersing the composition A in the form of solid aggregates.
  • Phases D and E are then added to the mixture until homogenization and obtaining of a smooth cream.
  • compositions 6 to 8 outside the invention are prepared, on the basis of the weight proportions as detailed in the table below, according to the same protocol used for compositions 1 to 5 of example 2:
  • compositions 1 to 5 according to the invention and of compositions 6 to 8 outside the invention were evaluated. Measurement of the soft-focus: Haze principle
  • the soft-focus is determined by measuring the Haze and the transparency, that is to say the perception of large-angle light.
  • the Haze is an in vitro measurement which makes it possible to simulate the soft- focus effect of a formula after application.
  • the Hazegard quantifies the visual perception of a cosmetic film after drying by objective measurements. It measures the intensity of the light passing through a sample. It measures in a distinct manner the direct transmittance (i.e. transmittance in the same direction as the incident ray) or the hemispherical transmittance (transmittance in all directions in space, which is equivalent to the total transmittance):
  • Hazegard Hazegard plus C ® , BYK Gardner
  • PET film PA-2871 ® , BYK10 Gardner
  • compositions 1 to 5 in accordance with the invention comprising the combination of two specific hydrophilic gelling agents according to the invention, exhibit better soft-focus performance qualities than compositions 6 to 8 outside the invention comprising a second hydrophilic gelling agent not in accordance with the present invention, or a single hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • compositions 1 to 5 in accordance with the invention exhibit very good masking performance qualities with the provision of sheen, and also good performance qualities in terms of smoothness and tackiness. They are easy to apply, are not very tacky, and smooth. They have a good playtime and leave a soft finish on the skin.
  • compositions 1 to 5 according to the invention have very good emollient and comfort properties. In addition, they do not pill.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition gélifiée comprenant deux agents gélifiants hydrophiles et des agrégats solides. La présente invention concerne une composition comprenant au moins une phase aqueuse gélifiée avec au moins deux agents gélifiants hydrophiles distincts et au moins une phase huileuse gélifiée avec au moins un agent gélifiant lipophile sélectionné parmi des élastomères organopolysiloxane; lesdites phases formant un mélange homogène du point de vue macroscopique; ladite composition comprenant également une dispersion d'agrégats solides, lesdits agrégats étant formés de 10 % à 80 % en poids de cire(s), par rapport à leur poids total.
PCT/EP2019/086462 2018-12-20 2019-12-19 Composition gélifiée comprenant deux gélifiants hydrophiles et agrégats solides WO2020127833A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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FR1873676 2018-12-20
FR1873676A FR3090327B1 (fr) 2018-12-20 2018-12-20 Composition gélifiée comprenant deux gélifiants hydrophiles et des agrégats solides

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EP0285886A1 (fr) 1987-04-10 1988-10-12 Ramisch Kleinewefers GmbH Procédé et installation pour le chauffage au gaz de rouleaux de calandre
EP0295886A2 (fr) 1987-06-16 1988-12-21 Toray Silicone Company, Limited Lotion faciale
JPH0517710A (ja) 1991-07-08 1993-01-26 Kansai Paint Co Ltd メタリツク塗料とその塗装法
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WO2015181733A1 (fr) * 2014-05-28 2015-12-03 L Oreal Composition cosmétique pour le maquillage et le soin de matières de kératine
WO2016083385A1 (fr) 2014-11-24 2016-06-02 L'oreal Gel aqueux ou hydroalcoolique de phyllosilicates synthetiques a titre d'agent viscosant, matifiant et/ou homogeneisant d'application
WO2019002311A1 (fr) * 2017-06-27 2019-01-03 L'oreal Composition gélifiée comprenant une dispersion d'agrégats solides

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