WO2020073213A1

WO2020073213A1 - A cosmetic composition containing flakes

Info

Publication number: WO2020073213A1
Application number: PCT/CN2018/109547
Authority: WO
Inventors: Weidong Song; Liang Chen
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd.; Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2018-10-10
Filing date: 2018-10-10
Publication date: 2020-04-16
Also published as: WO2020074161A1

Abstract

A cosmetic composition comprising carrageenan and/or gellan gum, and sodium cocoyl isethionate. The cosmetic composition provides flakes without an extra step.

Description

A cosmetic composition containing flakes

Technical Field

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic composition comprising three dimensional particles.

Background Art

A beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. One typical sign of such an appearance is a healthy and smooth looking skin. Therefore, in order to take care on the skin, it is for many people a daily routine to apply cosmetic products such as cleansing and moisturizing products.

In the development process of cosmetic compositions cosmetic companies mainly focus on the performance of the products, for example, in that the cosmetic compositions provide a specific caring effect or are efficient in cleansing the skin while being mild at the same time. However, it is well known that besides the performance of the cosmetic products their optical appearance is a decisive aspect for customers to buy the products. Therefore, it is essential for the market impact of the cosmetic products that they have unique optical appearance making them outstanding for the consumer.

One approach to provide such an optically appealing product is to disperse colored beads in the cosmetic composition. In previous years those beads used to be made of colored polyethylene. However, by using these products the polyethylene beads got released via the sewage system and water treatment into the environment. Therefore, the use of these polyethylene based beads is generally not desirable.

Some cosmetic companies, such as the Beiersdorf AG, decided to protect the environment by excluding polyethylene based beads from their products. Polyethylene beads are often replaced by beads formed by microcrystalline cellulose. One example of such a product is “Nivea Lemongrass &Oil” , which is disclosed under the Mintel GNPD database number 4112195. Beads formed by microcrystalline cellulose can commercially be purchased from companies such as J. RETTENMAIER &

GmbH + Co KG, Germany. The beads are usually added and slowly dispersed after preparing the cleansing composition, as the beads would be destroyed in the normal preparation process of a cleansing composition. Hence, an extra step is required to provide the final cleansing product.

Furthermore, the document EP 2942045 A1 discloses cosmetic compositions comprising alginate based pearls dispersed in an outer gel-phase. Both, the outer phase and the pearls are prepared in two separate steps and then, in a third step, mixed and filled into a dispenser.

The document WO 2018/015095 A1 discloses cosmetic compositions comprising hydrophobic flakes and methods making those flakes.

It should be noted that beads are understood as spherical structures looking like small regular formed balls. Flakes are understood as irregular shaped three dimensional particles, which can visibly be distinct by the human eye. Flakes have a size of at least 0.5 mm, whereby the value corresponds to a measurement of the distance of the most apart edges of the particles.

The pure fact that the state of the art has taught a few technologies to provide flakes or beads dispersed in cosmetic compositions should not obscure the point that there is a general need for novel technologies to provide new kinds of flakes or beads in cosmetic compositions. In particular, it is desirable to provide flakes or beads which are biodegradable and/or which are formed by naturally derived substances.

Summary of the Invention

Therefore, a first objective of the present invention is the provision of cosmetic compositions comprising a new kind of flakes.

As described above, it often requires multiple steps to provide cosmetic products containing beads or flakes. In particular, it is regularly the case that the beads or flakes are prepared in a separate process and are added later to the remaining cosmetic composition. Hence, dispersing the beads or flakes in a cosmetic composition requires an extra step in the production process, which makes the production more expensive. Therefore, it is also desirable to provide a less complicated way to provide a cosmetic composition including beads or flakes.

It was now surprisingly noticed that flakes are formed in a cosmetic composition in the presence of

a) carrageenan and/or gellan gum, and

b) sodium cocoyl isethionate.

It was surprisingly noticed that the flakes are formed in situ, such that the later addition of the flakes to the composition is no more necessary. The flakes formed according to the invention feel surprisingly soft if the composition spreads over the skin. In this way an optical appealing product is provided, which imparts a soft feeling upon use.

Accordingly, a first aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising

a) carrageenan and/or gellan gum, and

b) sodium cocoyl isethionate.

Still another aspect of the present invention is flakes to be contained in a cosmetic composition characterized in that the flakes are formed by carrageenan and/or gellan gum and sodium cocoyl isethionate.

Still another aspect of the present invention is the use of

a) carrageenan and/or gellan gum, and

b) sodium cocoyl isethionate

to form flakes in a cosmetic composition.

Another surprising aspect of the invention is that by providing a cosmetic composition according to the invention the flakes are uniformly dispersed in the composition. The flakes do not agglomerate on the bottom of the packaging the composition is stored in.

Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions” . The term "normal conditions" refers to 20℃, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

All temperatures disclosed refer, unless otherwise stated, to a pressure of 1013 hPa.

If percentages by weight (%by weight) are given below without reference to a particular composition or specific mixture, these figures always refer to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If ratios of certain components are disclosed without reference in the following description, these ratios always refer to weight ratios of the components.

If ranges for the weight of certain ingredients are disclosed, the disclosure includes not only the start and end values for the indicated ranges but also the individual values within the ranges in steps of 0.01%by weight.

The phrases "according to the invention" , "advantageous according to the invention" , "advantageous in the sense of the present invention" , etc., refer in the context of the present disclosure always to the composition according to the invention, the use according to the invention and the method according to the invention.

According to the invention the composition may comprises gellan gum.

Gellan gum is a water-soluble anionic polysaccharide produced by the bacterium Sphingomonas elodea (formerly Pseudomonas elodea) . Basically gellan gum is a linear polysaccharide, wherein the repeating unit of the polymer is a tetrasaccharide consisting of one L-rhamnose, one D-glucuronic acid and two D-glucose units, which may be esterified with acetic acid and glyceric acid.

Following the description above, gellan gums generally differ in the degree of acylation, such that two different chemical structures can be distinguished. Gellan gums with a high acylation degree are according to formula (II) , while gellan gums with a low acylation degree are according to formula (III) .

In the formulas (II) and (III) n stands for an integer number in the range from 2 to 2000, preferably from 200 to 450.

In the case the composition according to the invention comprises gellan gum, it is further preferred if the gellan gum has a structure according to formula (III) . Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the gellan gum according to formula (III) has a total mass in the range from 200000 to 300000 Da. Such a gellan gum can commercially be purchased under the trade name

CG-LA from the company CP Kelco.

In the case the composition according to the invention comprises gellan gum the total quantity of gellan gum, in particular the total quantity of the gellan gum according to formula (III) , is preferably in the range from 0.015%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.02%to 0.4%by weight and most preferably from 0.05%to 0.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention it is preferred if the composition comprises carrageenan. In the case the composition comprises carrageenan, it is further preferred, if carrageenan is contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity from 0.01%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.02%to 2%by weight and most preferably from 0.3%to 1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

If carrageenan is present in the composition according to the invention, it was surprisingly noted that the addition of carrageenan further improves the dispersion of the flakes formed in the composition according to the invention.

Preferred embodiments of the invention are also characterized in that the ratio by weight between the carrageenan and the sodium cocoyl isethionate is from 1∶5 to 1∶20, preferably 1∶10 to 1∶15.

Especially preferred compositions according to the invention contain both gellan gum and carrageenan.

According to the invention it is further preferred if sodium cocoyl isethionate is contained in a total quantity of at least 0.5%by weight, preferably at least 3%by weight, more preferably at least 5%by weight and most preferably at least 5.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it is preferred if the total quantity of sodium cocoyl isethionate in the cosmetic composition is in the range from 0.5%to 15%by weight, preferably from 3%to 12%by weight, more preferably from 5%to 10%by weight and most preferably from 5.5%to 7.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Sodium cocoyl isethionate may commercially be obtained under the trade name

SCI-85 C from Clariant International Ltd.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably a cleansing composition, such as a shower cleanser or a facial skin cleanser, whereby the use as facial skin cleanser is more preferred than the use as shower cleanser.

In terms of the present invention it is further preferred, if the cosmetic composition contains water and the total quantity of water is in the range from 75%to 97%by weight, more preferably from 80%to 96%by weight and most preferably from 85%to 95%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one polyhydric alcohol containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms, e.g., glycerin, whereby it is further preferred if the total quantity of those polyhydric alcohols is in the range from 0.5%to 15%by weight, more preferably from 3%to 8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it is also preferred according to the invention if the cosmetic composition comprises at least one antimicrobial agent selected from the group of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylhexlglycerin, 1, 2-decandiol and/or 1, 2-hexandiol.

In the case the cosmetic composition contains phenoxyethanol, it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1%to 1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In the case the cosmetic composition contains methylparaben, it is preferred if the total quantity of methylparaben is in the range from 0.05%to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In the case the cosmetic composition contains ethylhexlglycerin, it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexlglycerin is in the range from 0.05%to 0.6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In the case the cosmetic composition contains 1, 2-decandiol, it is preferred if the total quantity of 1, 2-decandiol is in the range from 0.05%to 1.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In the case the cosmetic composition contains 1, 2-hexandiol, it is preferred if the total quantity of 1, 2-hexandiol is in the range from 0.05%to 2.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

According to the present invention it is further preferred, if the cosmetic composition contains at least one pigment or dye, meaning those, which are listed in the “List of Colorants allowed in cosmetic products” in Annex IV of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, as updated on the 28 ^th of September 2017. Hence, a dye which can be contained in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is for example known under the code CI 42909.

Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably contained in a packaging having at least on one part of the packaging a transmission at 532 nm of at least 5%, preferably 20%, such that the composition can be spotted by the consumer. Furthermore, the packaging is preferably a plastic tube or a dispenser, whereby the dispenser is more preferred. Airless dispenser have been found as most preferred type of dispenser, as the structure of the formulation in the packaging is due to the pumping mechanism not adversely effected. Even in the case that the most of the composition has been removed from the airless dispenser, the structure of the composition in the dispenser remains unaffected. Airless dispenser can commercially obtained from a number of various suppliers. One example of such a dispenser is the Aptar Micro Round 50 mi, which can be obtained from the Fa. Aptargroup, Germany.

Examples

The following examples should illustrate the present invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Table 1:

INCI	Ex. 1	Ex. 2	Ex. 3	Com. 1	Com. 2
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate	5.95	5.95	5.95	5.95
Carrageenan	0.5		0.5
Gellan Gum ¹	0.1	0.1			0.1

Parfum	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1
Glycerin	5	5	5	5	5
Aaua	ad 100	ad 100	ad 100	ad 100	ad 100
CI 42090	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1
Phenoxyethanol	0.7	0.7	0.7	0.7	0.7

¹Commercial Product

CG-LA

The formulations listed in table 1 were prepared in the following manner:

All listed ingredients were heated to a temperature of 80℃ and mixed. Afterwards, themixture was cooled under normal conditions. At 60℃ the mixture was filled in a suitabledispenser and left under normal conditions until the composition reached ambienttemperature. The flakes were formed after 2 hours to 72 hours.

The formulations Ex. 1, Ex. 2 and Ex. 3are examples which are according to the invention,while the formulations Com. 1 and Com. 2 are comparison examples, which are not accordingto the invention.

The formulations Ex. 1, Ex. 2 and Ex. 3 showed flakes formed in the formulations. The size ofthe flakes was about 1-3 mm, measuring the distance between the most apart edges of theflakes. The flakes were found to be uniformly dispersed in the compositions, without anyagglomeration on the bottom of the compositions. The comparison example Com. 1 showed apowdery fallout on the bottom of the dispenser. No flakes were formed in Com. 1. Com. 2 wasa clear composition showing neither a powdery fallout nor flakes suspended in thecomposition.

Further examples:

INCI	Ex. 4	Ex. 5	Ex. 6
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate	0.85	2.55	4.25
Carrageenan	0.5	0.5	0,5
Gellan Gum ¹	0.1	0.1	0.1
Parfum	0.1	0.1	0.1
Glycerin	5	5	5
Aqua	ad 100	ad 100	ad 100
CI 42090	0.1	0.1	0.1
Phenoxyethanol	0.7	0.7	0.7

Claims

A cosmetic composition comprising

a) carrageenan and/or gellan gum, and

b) sodium cocoyl isethionate.
The use of

a) Carrageenan and/or gellan gum, and

b) sodium cocoyl isethionate

to form flakes in a cosmetic composition.
Composition or use according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the gellan gum has a structure according to formula (III)

whereby n stands for an integer number in the range from 2 to 2000, preferably from 200 to 450.
Composition or use according to claim 3 characterized in that the gellan gum according to formula (III) has a total mass in the range from 200000 to 300000 Da.
Composition or use according to any proceeding claim characterized in that gellan gum is contained in a total quantity from 0.015%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.02%to 0.4%by weight and more preferably from 0.05%to 0.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition or use according to any proceeding claim characterized in that carrageenan is contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity from 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.02%to 2%by weight and more preferably from 0.3%to 1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition or use according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the ratio by weight between the carrageenan and the sodium cocoyl isethionate is from 1∶5 to 1∶20, preferably 1∶10 to 1∶15.
Composition or use according to any proceeding claim characterized in that sodium cocoyl isethionate is contained in a total quantity of at least 0.5%by weight, preferably at least 3%by weight, more preferably at least 5%by weight and most preferably at least 5.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition or use according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the total quantity of sodium cocoyl isethionate in the cosmetic composition is in the range from 0.5%to 15%by weight, preferably from 3%to 12%by weight, more preferably from 5%to 10%by weight and most preferably from 5.5%to 7.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Composition or use according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the composition is a cleansing composition, preferably use as facial skin cleanser.
Composition or use according to any proceeding claim characterized in that the cosmetic composition contains water and the total quantity of water is in the range from 75%to 97%by weight, preferably from 80%to 96%by weight and more preferably from 85%to 95%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.